- Run the wires from the control panel to the splice box. The wires can be brought through a conduit, or can be buried using suitable direct-burial wire. Conduit that enters the splice box must be sealed, even if the wires are direct-buried, to prevent the infiltration of water into the splice box.
How does a float switch work on a submersible pump?
The float switch works by simply turning the pump on when the water level goes up and turning it off when the level goes down. Because of this, the float switch is the most common failure, or most vulnerable component of a submersible pump.
Why is my float switch not working?
When it comes to the failure of this type of float switch, it generally comes down to certain common causes. These causes include the incorrect configuration of the switch, poor maintenance, using a float switch that is not designed for the purpose or using a float switch that is not properly rated for the application.
How do you bypass a sump pump float switch?
Bypass the circuit on the original float switch and use silicone sealant to thoroughly seal the housing. Loosely attach the replacement switch to the pump housing with a zip tie. Plug the switch into the outlet and plug the bypass plug into the switch. Fill the basin with water.
How many wires does a float switch have?
Let’s start with the most basic float switch: a two-wire, single-pole, single-throw float switch. The rising action of the float can either close (i.e., turn on) a “Normally Open” circuit, or it can open (turn off) a “Normally Closed” circuit.
How does a double float switch work?
Each float contains a heavy-duty mercury switch. The splice tube contains a holding relay which enables the floats to function in series. The holding relay eliminates pump chatter in turbulent conditions, allowing the Double Float® pump switch to operate relay control panels for larger pump applications.
Where is the float switch on a septic system?
For switches and alarms that can be installed into new septic tanks, a side-mounted float switch might be a better option. These switches are run through the side of the tank, rising and falling with water levels to an open or closes position.
Why is my septic pump not working?
First check your circuit breaker, and then try to use a multimeter or similar device to check wires in the septic system for damage to see what needs to be replaced. A fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. Replace fuses as needed. Note the size recommended by the pump manufacturer and pump nameplate rating.
Float Switch Installation Wiring & Control Diagrams
What is the proper way to install and wire my float switch? What is the best place to look for a float switch circuit diagram? Where can I obtain a wiring schematic for a float switch? You inquired, and today we provide an answer. Wiring a float switch is not difficult, but it might be a bit complicated if you don’t have a visual aid or two to guide you through the process. Keep in mind that the wiring you’re doing is a way of turning things on and off in the future. When you are visualizing the wiring and applying the schematic to real-world control, it will be helpful to think about when you want something turned off and when you want it turned on carefully.
Single and double switch layouts, as well as how to wire them, will be discussed, and then we’ll look into analogous circuits utilizing the Kari series of float switches.
They obviously do not apply in all situations, particularly when huge motors are involved, and additional control equipment is required to handle them.
Single Float Switch Wiring
First, let’s look at the most fundamental float switch: a two-wire, single-pole, single-throw float switch with only one terminal. When the float rises, it can either close (turn on) a “Normally Open” circuit or open (turn off) a “Normally Closed” circuit, depending on the circuit type being used. The installation of a pump to empty a tank (Control Schematic 2) or the installation of a pump to fill a tank (Control Schematic 3) might result in a normally open float switch turning on or off the pump (Control Schematic 2).
- In both diagrams, terminal 1 in the control circuitry represents the landing point for the (+) wire of the float switch, and terminal 2 represents the landing point for the (-) wire of the float switch.
- A two-wire float switch that may be used to turn on or off a pump with relative simplicity.
- It’s a pretty easy solution, but it’s also an issue since level changes will cause the float to flutter, which will force the pump motor to switch on and off in rapid succession, causing the pump to overheat.
- So, what can we do to ensure that the pump motor is protected?
Wiring For Two Float Switches
Hysteresis can be achieved by including a second switch. Hyste-what? We’ll get there, believe me. Hold on a minute. In order to enable for the switching on and off of a level switch without cycling the pump motor simultaneously, we must devise a method of doing so. A time delay could be included, but that would not aid in monitoring and responding to the conditions in the tank; it would merely act as a bypass for the switch.
When we add a second switch that is identical to the first and wire an in-line relay around one of them, we will get the control that we are seeking for, as shown in Figure 1.
Control Schematic 3
Let’s begin by taking a look at Control Schematic 3, which contains two normally closed toggle switches. This circuit may be used to regulate the operation of a pump that fills a tank with water. The first switch (L) is set to the amount of liquid that is wanted in the tank at all times. The second switch (H) is set to the highest level that may be achieved. As soon as the liquid level falls below both switches, they are both closed, and the pump starts to fill the tank. It opens as soon as the liquid reaches the level of the first switch.
- When the high-level switch is activated, the motor relay P is activated, which stops the motor, and the seal-in relay A is activated.
- Assume that a valve downstream of the tank is opened, enabling liquid to flow out of the tank into the surrounding environment.
- However, because both the low-level switch L and the seal-in relay A are open, the pump motor is unable to operate.
- At that moment, both the low-level and high-level switches will be closed, completing the circuit and enabling motor relay P to activate, allowing the pump to begin operating immediately.
- Consequently, when the low-level switch L opens during the filling process of the tank, the seal-in relay maintains the circuit closed and the pump continues to pump.
- When the liquid level goes below the low-level switch, the pump will begin to run continuously until both switches are open at the same time.
- Additionally, once the high-level switch is activated, the pump will not operate until both switches have been deactivated.
- Let’s get this thing wired up.
- Using terminals 1 and 2, connect the low-level switch wires, then to terminals 3 and 4, and then to terminals 5 and 6 to connect the contacts for the seal-in relay A contacts.
- Wiring the seal-in relay and connections will be dependent on the control equipment you are using.
The wiring isn’t too bad: two float switches, one extra relay, and four to six wires are required. But what if I told you that you could do the same thing with only two wires? There are just two new wires, not two additional wires.
2-Wire Pump Control With The Kari Float Switch
Yes, you are correct. With a KARI series 2L float switch, you can get the same hysteresis control with only one switch and two wires, rather than two switches and four or six wires with a traditional float switch. “Can you tell me what this Magic is?” you inquire. Simple: each float switch in the KARI series contains several microswitches as well as control circuitry that is integrated into the float. The singleKARI series float tilts to one side when the volume of liquid in the tank rises with the level of the float.
So, what do you need to do in order to wire this up?
There are no seal-in relays, no more switches, and nothing else.
Bonus: 3-Wire Pump Control With The Kari Float Switch
Seeing as how it was so simple, let’s see what we can do with the three-wire KARI series float switch: add an alarm signal! KARI series 3H float switches eliminate the need for four wires for simple, two-level hysteresis and instead use three wires to provide two-level hysteresis as well as an alert. Take a look at the Control Schematic 4 for further information. The wiring connections for the switches that provide hysteresis are located at the bottom of the diagram (wires 12). The next person in line is for a really high-level alarm (i.e., a higher level than the high-level hysteresis switch).
All that is needed is to install the switch in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions for the levels you wish.
Motor Starting And Motor Control
We’ve spent a considerable amount of time discussing how float switches may be used to turn pumps on and off, so it’s worth devoting a few minutes to discussing motor starting and motor control in more detail. It is likely that the relay-driven contactors illustrated in the preceding schematics will be adequate to start tiny motors, such as direct current (DC) motors and motors up to one horsepower (HP). Starting and stopping these motors (or the loads they are driving) using a contactor functioning as an on-off switch will do no damage to them (or the loads they are driving).
When operating at full load, such motors require integrated controllers as well as overload protection in order to start safely and remain protected.
In all honesty, the vast majority of the pumps and motors that you would normally operate with a float switch are likely to be large enough to necessitate the use of these integrated controllers.
Understanding the fundamentals of float switch control wiring, on the other hand, will enable you to operate with greater confidence, regardless of how powerful or sophisticated the system is.
Float switch installation and troubleshooting will become much easier as a result of this improvement. In addition, if you ever want assistance, we are always here to assist you as needed. photo credit: PEO ACWAviaflickrcccropped at the top
Pump will not turn on in auto mode
Hello, everyone. For years, I’ve been having problems with my septic system. Floats and the majority of the internal components of the control box have been replaced. Floats were replaced a number of occasions. I have to repair it on average once a year or twice a year for the next two years. The alarm went off for the fifth time in five days. Here’s what I’ve got thus far: I have a three-chamber septic system with a thump pump that is either one or two horsepower (I’m not sure) and costs $850.
- We had it replaced about 2007 at a total cost of $850 dollars.
- There are two floats: one to switch on the pump and another to sound an alert.
- Control box that is rather straightforward.
- I had a peek at them at night when there were no lights on a timer.
- Symptoms:An alarm went off 5 days ago.
- I frequently assumed that it was a terrible float once again.
- I replaced the level float with an alert float the other day.
When employed as a level float, what was previously an alarm float, Junior, does not activate the pump.
Conclusion: the pump is operational, and both floats are operational?
So, what exactly is the problem?
There truly isn’t anything more that could go wrong here.
The question is, if what was employed as a level float also functions as an alarm float, does this imply that the float is in excellent working order?
Because the local store is only open when I am at work, I am on a very tight timetable when it comes to purchasing components.
But I need to know what I’m supposed to buy.
Thank you very much.
How Sewage Pumps Work with Float Switches
Most of the time when you flush your toilet, you don’t think about where the waste goes or how it’s transported to a sewage treatment plant.
This, on the other hand, is something that has a significant impact on your daily activities. It is impossible to use gravity to transfer trash in residences that are located below septic or sewage systems. In this case, the role of the sewage pump is crucial.
What is a Sewage Pump?
Sewage pumps are pumps that are used to transport sewage liquids and particles from one area to another. They are also known as sewage disposal pumps. Sewage is normally pumped from the basement of the home into the main sewer line in the event of a residence. Sewage pumps are available in two configurations: manual and automated. Manual sewage pumps must be switched on and off on a regular basis, albeit they are generally not advised due to the danger of sewage overflowing. Automatic sewage pumps, on the other hand, work with the assistance of a float switch to operate.
How Sewage Pumps Work?
Centrifugal pumps are used in sewage treatment. Aside from that, they are carefully built so that particles may travel through them without fouling up the pump itself. Pumps work by rotating their impellers, which generate enough pressure to force water into the impeller and then out of it through the discharge pipe. When you switch on your pump, the motor turns your impeller. You could be curious about how the sewage pump determines when to pump sewage in the first place, or how the sewage tank avoids overflowing.
In response to an increase in the amount of sewage in the tank, this switch floats higher in the tank.
Float Switches for Sewage Pumps
The float switch is one of the most critical components of a sewage pump since it is responsible for allowing the pump to actually begin pumping. It is typical to see the FN20 Mechanical Sump Switch in residential applications such as sump pumps and basement pumps. It is also possible to utilize this sump float switch for septic tanks and ejector pumps in addition to sump tanks.
Get in touch today!
Check the wires in the septic system for damage with a voltmeter or comparable gadget to determine whether or not they need to be replaced.
Interested in Pumps?
Get the latest Pumps articles, news, and videos delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Pumps+ Receive Notifications Checking for faults with a septic pump’s electrical system, the pump itself, and its controls are all important first steps when it won’t start. Dealing with electricity may be extremely dangerous; thus, exercise extreme caution while working with electricity and turn off power supply breakers when testing components inside the electrical system. If you are not 100 percent sure in your ability to execute any of these tests safely, consult with a specialist before proceeding.
If the pump does not appear to be operating at all, does not respond to any testing, and does not appear to be pumping effluent, it is possible that there is a wiring issue. Examine your circuit breaker first, and then try to use a voltmeter or similar equipment to check the wires in your septic system for damage to determine whether or not they need to be changed. If the wires are damaged, replace them.
- There might be a wiring problem if the pump does not appear to be operating at all, fails to respond when tested, and does not pump effluent out of the tank. Before you begin, make sure your circuit breaker is working properly. Then, using a voltmeter or other comparable equipment, check for damage in the septic system’s wires to determine whether or not any wires need be replaced.
It is possible that the motor for the lift pump is not functioning properly, in which case power is still flowing to the pump but it is unable to function.
At this stage, make sure that the pump is not clogged and that it is capable of performing its intended function; otherwise, the pump will need to be fixed or replaced totally.
- Theimpeller has been blocked or restricted. Disconnect the power, remove the pump from the sump, and inspect it for freedom of rotation of the impeller and shaft. Clean the volute and impeller, and remove any obstructions
- The bearings have frozen in their positions. Disconnect the power, remove the pump from the sump, and inspect it for freedom of rotation of the impeller and shaft. Lower bearing of the column pump should be free and lubricated. In order to repair the pump bearing, contact a licensed service shop. The water level is not sufficiently enough to activate the control switch. Water should be added to the sump to make it turn on. Control floats or weights must be readjusted
- An internal motor problem exists. Pump should be removed, power should be disconnected, and rated voltage should be connected before the controlswitch is actuated. To have your vehicle repaired or replaced, contact an authorized service shop.
In comparison to a float tree, a pump linked to a line is used. If the pump detects sewage levels using a float, the float may become caught or destroyed, in which case the pump will not operate. Usually, you can adjust the float or otherwise correct it so that it floats normally again, but if the problem is severe enough, you may need to replace the float totally.
- The operation of the float is hampered or restricted in some way. Water should be added to the sump to make it turn on. Make any necessary adjustments to the control floats or weights. If the float rod is bent or obstructed by debris, consider adding a separate float tree to make pump removal and float operation easier. If the float rod is bent or obstructed by debris, consider replacing it. Examine and keep an eye on things. Make necessary adjustments to the control floats or weights
- The float switch is faulty. Remove the pump, turn off the power, connect the power to the rated voltage, and turn on the controlswitch. Inspect for deformation, charred or melted components, or a significant amount of black discoloration. Unplug the pump’s chord from the piggyback plug on the floatswitch, and then reconnect the cord. To test the pump, just put the plug straight into an electrical outlet. If the pump continues to run, the float switch has failed and must be replaced. (Do not keep the pump plugged in for an extended period of time or it may burn out.) Make any necessary adjustments to the control floats or weights. Replace the liquid level control with a new one. Give the pressure switch a thorough visual inspection to check for flaws and wear and tear. Turning on and off switches is essential for a fully functioning system, and they are reasonably priced.
a little about the author Sara Heger, Ph.D., is an engineer, researcher, and lecturer in the Onsite Sewage Treatment Program at the University of Minnesota’s Water Resources Center. She holds a bachelor’s degree in civil engineering and a master’s degree in environmental science. She has given presentations at several local and national training events on topics such as the design, installation, and administration of septic systems, as well as research in the related field. Her responsibilities include serving as the education chair for the Minnesota Onsite Wastewater Association and the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association, as well as serving on the National Science Foundation’s International Committee on Wastewater Treatment Systems.
Heger will respond as soon as possible.
This article is part of a series on troubleshooting pumps:
- If the pump motor does not turn on, troubleshooting is necessary. Pump problems include: the pump turns on, but there is no water
- The pump turns on, but there is no water. Pump problems include the following: the pump runs continuously or cycles too frequently
- Pump problems include the following: the pump makes a lot of noise
- Pump Troubleshooting: There is a strong odor of sewer gas
What to do When Your Septic Alarm is Going Off
It is critical to respond fast if your sewage alarm is sounding in order to avoid a potentially expensive cleanup. Step one is to turn off the alarm. Typically, a control panel will feature a button on the front that may be pressed to quiet the panel completely. If you only have a tank alarm, it will almost always come with a switch to turn it off completely. Step 2: Stop using water as soon as possible. This is critical in order to avoid incurring additional costs for pumping the tank. Step 3: Determine the source of the problem.
Verify that the tank’s liquid level is correct and that there are no obvious problems with the floats You may do this by switching the control panel’s switch to “Manual” or “Hand.” It is quite probable that you have a problem with a float switch if the pump begins to run when the liquid level in the tank is lowering.
- As soon as the switch is turned to “Manual” or “Hand,” the motor should start.
- The float switch will be a typically open switch, which means that it will always be on.
- The continuity of the switch should be checked using an ohmmeter.
- If you do not have a control panel, your pump is most likely controlled via a pump switch that is connected to a piggyback connector.
- Remove the piggyback plug from the pump and connect it straight to the electrical outlet.
- It is possible that the pump is malfunctioning if it does not start or hums when it starts.
So, maybe, some of these suggestions would assist you in resolving your issue or eliminating potential reasons. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any issues or need more troubleshooting assistance.
Standard Control Panels
Our basic control panel designs were established over the course of Orenco’s many years of experience in the construction of wastewater system electrical controls. These basic panels are primarily intended for pump and flow control applications, but they may be adapted for a variety of other purposes as well. Select a basic control panel for the quickest delivery and the greatest amount of savings. With our enormous manufacturing volume, we are able to connect directly with major manufacturers to install the absolute finest components at a considerable cost reduction to our clients, regardless of the size of their panel.
- Alarm Monitors, Electromechanical Panels, MVP Logic Panels, VeriComm ® Panels, Telemetry Panels, and other related products.
Alarms provide an audible and visible warning when an application’s restrictions are exceeded, such as when the tank level is too high. Control panels can also benefit from the use of these devices as remote alarms. Alarms can be used in a succession to create systems that are sequential. Optional features include indoor or outdoor rating, automatic or manual reset mode, low voltage or 115 VAC operation, and a variety of other configurations.
Alarms – AMAHW and AMLAHW Series
In order to monitor contact closures, such as a float switch, AMAHW and AMLAHW Alarms are utilized. They are equipped with a red light and an audio alert. An automated reset to quiet is available on AMAHW alarms, however a manual reset is required for AMLAHW alarms. Neither is designed to be used as a stand-alone item, but rather as a remote alarm system. Installation of a rain-tight enclosure is possible both outside and indoors. UL-listed. There is no input switch supplied.
Alarms – AMSENTI and AMSENTII Series
Alarms from AMSENTI (Sentinel I) are low voltage (9V), and they are powered by an AC transformer that connects into a standard 115V wall socket. The AMSENTII (Sentinel II) alarms are powered by a 9V rechargeable lithium battery (included). An audio alert and a red light (with test/silence/auto operation) are provided. The AMSENTI and AMSENTII feature a thermoplastic enclosure that can only be used for indoor installation; the AMSENTII-W may be used for outdoor installation. It may be used with any dry-contact signal and is quite versatile.
There is no input switch supplied.
Single-Gang Box Alarms – AMSGBA Series
A remote alarm, such as an AMSGBA alarm, is installed in a single-gang box. This product is intended for indoor usage only. There is no input switch supplied.
Monitors – AMDDC Digital Cycle Counters
It is an event monitor that counts the number of times the input contact switches on. This signal is suitable for use with any dry contact signal type. Enclosure with a viewing glass that is weatherproof and raintight. Powered by a rechargeable battery (long-life lithium battery included). There is no input sensor supplied.
Electromechanical Control Panels
Ordinary electromechanical control panels from Orenco are available in four different series: A, S, DAX, and SSF. These panels are especially developed for use with effluent pumping and onsite treatment systems.
A-Series Simplex Alarm Panels (A)
A low-cost alternative to complex alarm panels for effluent sewer (STEP) systems and pump control into traditional gravity or pressured drainfields when cost is a significant consideration.
The A panel is intended for use in conjunction with a simplex pump and alarm system with a modest horsepower. Activation and deactivation of the pump’s power is handled directly by the pump’s ON/OFF float switch, which must be motor-rated.
S-Series Simplex Control Panels (S)
A simplex control panel can be utilized for a variety of applications, including pressure sewer (STEP) systems, onsite treatment systems, and pump control for traditional gravity or pressured drainfields. Pump control panels from the S-Series are a popular choice for a simplex pump and alarm system because of their simplicity. These panels are equipped with a motor contactor, which extends the life of the system by lowering the load needs on the float switches. S-Series panels also provide additional choices such as a programmable timer and the usage of higher-capacity pumps.
DAX-Series Duplex Control Panels (DAX)
In pressure sewer and onsite treatment systems that require the use of two alternating pumps, duplex control panels can be utilized to regulate the flow of water. It is possible to configure the pair of pumps to operate in both “lead” and “lag” modes; a built-in alternating relay alternates the locations of the pumps in the “lead” and “lag” modes with each pump cycle.
SSF-Series Sand Filter Control Panels (SSF)
When pumping from point “A” to point “B” (first pump) and then from point “B” to point “C” (second pump), the SSF Series of sand filter control panels from Orenco may be used to regulate two pumps in a sand filter treatment system (second pump). In the case of a high-level alert situation occurring downstream, interlocked controls prohibit the upstream pump from operating. There are motor contactors included in these panels to improve system longevity by lowering the load requirements placed on float switches.
MVP Logic Control Panels
MVP Logic Control Panels from Orenco provide the highest level of dependability and flexibility in control. Many timing and logic operations are included in its simple-to-use, factory-programmed logic unit, which includes variable timing intervals to accommodate changing conditions and an integrated elapsed-time meter and counter, among other features. Included in the standard features are elapsed-time meters, counters, digital indication of input switch status, distinct alarm/light signals for different alarm circumstances, and the possibility to employ a single input switch type for several purposes.
The durable, solid-state logic unit is equipped with a screen that helps the user through the setup and adjustment process using a straightforward keypad.
MVP Simplex Logic Control Panels “MVP-S” Series
The MVP-Simplex control panel is perfect for single-pump systems that require both scheduled and on-demand pumping. The precision and adaptability of the MVP make it an excellent choice for any system that requires a timer.
MVP Duplex Logic Control Panels “MVP-DAX” Series
Switching control panels such as the MVP-Duplex alternate control panels are perfect for regulating two-pump systems.
These panels are equipped with an MVP programmable logic unit, which ensures that each pump receives the same amount of run-time. In addition, the MVP unit has the capability of turning on both pumps in high-demand conditions.
MVP Sand Filter Control Panels “MVP-SSF” Series
If you are pumping from point “A” to point “B” (first pump) and then from point “B” to point “C” (second pump), you may use the MVP sand filter control panels from Orenco to operate two pumps in one sand filter treatment system (second pump). When a high level alert situation develops in the downstream pump, the interlocked controls prohibit the first (upstream) pump from operating.
VeriComm®Control Panels (VCOM)
For decentralized wastewater collection and treatment for residential systems, Orenco’s VeriComm ®line of cheap telemetry control panels, in conjunction with the VeriComm Web-Based Monitoring System, has been particularly built. In addition, VeriComm enables wastewater system operators and service providers to remotely monitor and regulate the performance of each individual site, allowing them to save money on operation and maintenance while staying practically inconspicuous to homeowners. VeriComm panels, in addition to providing all of the characteristics of a normal panel for the same application, incorporate a variety of “smart” functions, such as the following:
- Communication and alert handling are essential. There are three operating modes (“start-up” and “test” modes, as well as a “regular” mode)
- There are three working modes. Data gathering and records are required. Troubleshooting and diagnostic logic are important concepts. In the case of a float failure, advanced control logic ensures that the system continues to operate correctly.
elapsed-time meters and counters are incorporated into the telemetry unit on all VeriComm panels, and they may be seen remotely through an internet connection or by connecting to the panel directly with an Apple laptop or Pocket PC ®device (Bluetooth ®Kit needed). Existing phone lines are shared by VeriComm panels, which are equipped with a DSL filter/surge arrestor for the phone line as a standard feature. They also have the option of using a single kind of float switch for all of their functions.
In effluent sewage systems, a telemetry panel allows for remote monitoring and control of simplex pumping operations performed on demand.
Remote monitoring and control of timed dosing in simplex pumping operations is accomplished through the use of a telemetry panel. Timed dosing of non-recirculating systems, such as intermittent sand filters and drainfields, is one of the many applications for this technology.
Telemetry panel for remote monitoring and control of duplex alternating pumping operations that are performed on demand. Sewer systems and lift stations are two examples of applications for this technology.
A telemetry panel for remote monitoring and control of timed dosing in duplex alternating pumping operations is used in this application. Timed dosing of non-recirculating systems, such as intermittent sand filters and drainfields, is one of the many applications for this technology. On all time-dosed duplex panels, a current sensor is included as standard equipment.
TCOM™ Control Panels
TCOMTM Control Panels from Orenco Controls send status, alerts, and control information to and from a phone line, allowing for remote monitoring and control of wastewater treatment applications. A centralized management and troubleshooting system for many panels/sites may be set up and accessed from any location where the Internet is available. These cost-effective, integrated telemetry panels offer digital control, data logging and remote access and control in real time.
TCOM panels are available in a variety of configurations. They are well suited for standalone monitoring and control systems, but they can also be incorporated into supervisory control and data acquisition (SCADA) systems.
- Automatic notification of pagers in the event of an alert condition or when the panel identifies trends that might result in system failure
- The ability to preserve logs for system states and events, such as pump run time, pump cycles, and alarm conditions, is provided by the logging feature. It is possible to download logs to standard spreadsheet and word processing tools. TCOM Viewer, a graphical software interface between Windows PCs and TCOM, allows operators to access and operate TCOM from anywhere in the world with ease. Graphing log data is another an option. Communication with TCOM panels can be accomplished through the use of HyperTerminalTM or a comparable VT100 terminal emulator (which is often included with most computer operating systems). A multi-level password security system is in place to guarantee that only authorized individuals may remotely access the site
- There are many, many more.
Septic tank issue – DoItYourself.com Community Forums
So, here I am again, with my septic system not functioning properly. I have a three chamber septic system with a two horsepower ($850) thump pump. There are two floats: one to switch on the pump and another to sound an alert. Single pump switch from Rhombus with alarm float Junior and effluent level float Super Single pump switch from Rhombus. The control panel is equipped with a relay with a solenoid and a timer. The primary switch has an ON/OFF switch, two fuses, and a manual/automatic off switch.
I have no way of knowing if the lights on the timer are turned on.
Both the solenoid and the timer were changed around two years ago.
It worked when I switched the pump on using the manual switch.
I’ve already had them changed a couple of times.
To my astonishment, the level float functioned as an alert.
I realize there is a wait of a minute or so, but I’ve held the float in my hand for at least three minutes and the pump has yet to activate.
I know the relay works since I can manually turn the pump on and the relay kicks in and buzzes.