How To Avoid Digging Line To Septic Tank? (Perfect answer)

• Call your local electric utility provider or gas company to locate buried gas or utility lines before digging. A septic tank probe can also help you find the location. Stick the long, thin metal probe into the ground until you feel it hit the tank and feel the edges of the tank.

How far do field lines extend from septic tank?

Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank ‘setbacks’ with tank 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house, at least 100 feet away from wells and streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property

How close to septic can I dig?

– A full foundation must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 20 feet from the leaching area. – A slab foundation such as a garage must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area.

How deep should septic pipe be buried?

On average, trenches should be around 12-24 inches-deep, and wide enough to house your pipe comfortably before filling it in with soil and sod.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

Can you add dirt on top of leach field?

Never add additional soil over the drain field unless it is a minimal amount used to restore an area that may have been eroded or pulled up by removing another plant. Try not to be overly zealous when tilling the soil for planting. Remember that the drain lines may be as close as 6 inches from the soil surface.

Can you put a garden over a septic field?

Planting over a septic leach field (drain field) is possible if it is done with care. If you have limited space on your property where you can garden, the leach field may be the only spot for landscaping. Vegetable gardening over a leach field is not recommended.

How far away from the house should a septic tank be?

Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet from the house, although most are between 10 and 25 feet away.

Can I build a deck over a septic tank?

You should never build a deck over a septic field; doing so will prevent the natural draining and dissipation of the effluent. This can ruin the septic system, not to mention releasing foul smells into the air all around your deck. The dissipating effluent can also rot the deck from underneath.

How far down is a leach field?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

How much dirt should be on top of a septic tank?

Each layer should be uniform, no greater than 24 inches thick, and of nearly equal heights around the perimeter of the tank. However, compaction under the haunch (bottom curvature of some tanks) is best done in 6- to 12-inch layers.

What is the fall on a 4-inch sewer pipe?

For 4-inch PVC piping and a building sewer less than 50 feet long, the minimum slope is 1 inch in 8 feet, or 1/8-inch per foot, and the maximum is 1/4-inch per foot. For sewers longer than 50 feet, the slope should be 1/4-inch per foot.

What can I use instead of a septic tank?

Alternative Septic Systems

• Raised Bed (Mound) Septic Tank Systems. A raised bed drain field (sometimes called a mound) is just like what it sounds.
• Aerobic Treatment Systems (ATS) Aerobic systems are basically a small scale sewage treatment system.
• Waterless Systems.

Are septic tanks still legal?

Septic Tanks Explained… Septic tanks cannot discharge to surface water drains, rivers, canals, ditches, streams or any other type of waterway. you are required to upgrade or replace your septic tank treatment system to a full sewage treatment plant by 2020, or when you sell a property, if it’s prior to this date.

What is the alternative to a septic tank?

Mound systems work well as alternatives to septic tanks when the soil around your home or building is too dense or too shallow or when the water table is too high. Although they are more expensive and require more maintenance than conventional systems, mound systems are a common alternative.

Don’t Dig Around a Septic Tank Until You Talk to a Professional

Certain considerations must be taken into consideration if you have a septic system on your property. One of the most fundamental laws of septic tank ownership is that you should never dig around your system. Even if you know the precise position of your tank, you may be lacking important information such as the location of the pipes or other components that are connected to it. Before you embark on any landscaping or construction project on your home, you should always speak with a professional.

While landscaping, use extreme caution if you have a septic system on your property.

Certain shrubs should be avoided, particularly bushes with invasive root systems, according to the experts.

Remove any trees that are near your septic tank that you feel are causing an issue.

• Tree roots might be difficult to remove when you don’t know where they came from or where they are going.
• Some of your pipes may not be located where you expect them to beYour septic system is built to accommodate the size of your house.
• There are a number of components that are also positioned below ground level.
• Before beginning any digging, for whatever reason, it is critical to contact with a specialist who is familiar with the structure of your system.
• Do you have a project that requires excavating on your property?
• Give us a call right now!

Dig (Excavate) to Locate Septic Tank or Drainfield

• POSTPONE a QUESTION or COMMENTabout digging to locate a septic tank, drainfield, D-box, or septic pipe, or about any other septic system components
• POSTPONE a QUESTION or COMMENTabout septic system components

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. The following are the times when it is necessary to dig to locate the septic system, tank or drainfield, soakaway beds or pipes, or D-box: We’d like not to have to dig up the entire yard in order to locate the septic tank or other septic components, wouldn’t you say? Septic system location videos are included with this article to demonstrate how to locate the leach field or drainfield component of a septic system, as well as situations in which digging or exploratory excavation is required and warranted.

(Septic drain fields are sometimes referred to as soil absorption systems or seepage beds in some circles.) For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

How to use Excavating to find Drainfield TrenchesTheir Condition

Part 7 of A Guide to Locating the Drainfield Based on the above-mentioned site observations, a homeowner could decide to drill a test hole in an area where he or she believes a leach line is located. The depth of a leach line may vary depending on the site circumstances, but it is typically 24″ or so. Alternatively, a septic contractor can just build a trench across the property, assuming that the soil cut will intersect the buried line. Digging over the whole property may be sensible only if we already know that the system has to be replaced, because the backhoe is likely to destroy any hidden piping it “discovers” when it is digging across the entire property.

Why we Like Digging by Hand First and Excavating by Backhoe Second

Equipment is preferred over shovels for digging on construction sites because it is faster, physically easier (using a machine is easier than wielding a shovel), and most importantly, it is more profitable. Undoubtedly, in many situations, a backhoe is the only feasible option for digging. However, wherever feasible, we prefer to dig by hand before using a machine. When hunting for septic components, hand excavation causes the least amount of harm to a construction site because:

• Hand excavation causes the least amount of damage to the site, yard, plants, and other structures. Hand excavation can begin gradually, directly next to the building wall, without the need to wait for the arrival of heavy equipment
• Hand excavation can be completed by a motivated owner or her companions (but first read about SEPTICCESSPOOL SAFETY)
• Hand excavation helps to prevent harming steel septic tanks and covers (but first read about SEPTICCESSPOOL SAFETY)
• It also saves time. As a result, hand excavation (or a cautious backhoe operator) will not result in a freshly “explored” but now completely ruined septic system, which means you will not be able to utilize the building plumbing and will be compelled to accept whatever repair quote the contractor gives. (Trying to obtain septic repair cost estimates prior to any excavation is difficult since the contractor understands that there are too many unknowns – but insist on upper fair cost boundaries)

Where to Excavate to Look for Septic or Sewer Components

However, at some point, it becomes necessary to excavate, either because your hand digging proved futile or because you’ve discovered that substantial investigation and septic repair are likely required. An experienced excavation contractor usually has a very good sense of where another excavator would have excavated to locate a drainfield trench, D-box, or other septic system component, and can make educated guesses. Walking around the site and ruling in or out potential excavation sites can help to drastically minimize the amount of excavation required.

How to Think First and Dig Second – Narrowing the Search for the Drainfield

Before you dig, read the sections VISUAL CLUES LOCATE THE SEPTIC TANK, Areas Not Likely, and Visual Clues to Location for further information on how to limit down your search for septic components before you dig.

Septic Excavation Case Illustrated – step by step excavation to replace a sewer line

Our sewer line case study demonstrates in detail the stages involved in locating and digging septic components at a property. Detailed instructions on when, how, and why to repair the underground drain line that connects a house to a septic tank are included in this procedure.

Digging up a Failed Drainfield

Of course, if the leach field is already in need of repair, it is likely that the end of a leach line may be identified by observing where effluent is leaking to the surface of the ground.

Septic Drainfield Location Articles

• Clearance Disturbances, Septic System
• Odors, Septic or Sewer
• Locations of Septic Components
• Septic Drainfield Inspection Test at Home
• Septic Drainfield Location
• Septic Drainfield Inspection Test at Work

• LOCATION OF THE DRAINFIELD PIPE, EXACT
• EXCAVATE TO LOCATE THE DRAINFIELD
• REASONS FOR LOCATION OF THE DRAINFIELD
• Recordings to LOCATE the DRAINFIELD
• SURPRISING DRAINFIELD LOCATIONS
• UNLIKELY DRAINFIELD LOCATIONS
• VISUAL CLUES LOCATE the DRAINFIELD
• VISUAL CLUES LOCATE the SEPTIC TANK

• SERVING SEPTIC DRAINFIELDS
• SEPTIC DRAINFIELD SIZE
• SEPTIC DRAINFIELD Shape
• SEPTIC DRAWINGS
• SEPTIC DRAINFIELD RESTORERS

. Continue reading atREASONS to FIND THE DRAINFIELD, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX. Alternatively, read SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND for further information on locating the septic tank, chamber, drywell, or seepage pit. LOCATION OF THE SEPTIC DRAINFIELD- HOUSE Inspection of septic drainfields at the residence Where to Look for the Septic Tank. Visit SEPTIC VIDEOS for more information on septic system location and maintenance.

Suggested citation for this web page

EXCAVATE in order to LOCATED DRAINFIELDatInspection An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

EXCAVATE in order to LOCATED DRAINFIELDatInspection. An online encyclopedia of building and environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue avoidance guidance is available at pedia.com/building. Alternatively, take a look at the following:

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How to Run a Septic Tank Line From Your House

A septic system is made up of two lengths of pipe that are connected together. Initially, it runs from the house, where the system services are located, to a tank, where the waste is separated and solids settle out. The second section runs from the tank to the drainage field, where fluids from the tank are dispersed into the earth underneath the tank. The process of installing the first run of pipe is quite similar to that of installing a traditional sewage line. It is necessary to maintain a downhill slope to the storage tank.

Locating the Septic Tank

The tank serves as the nerve center of the septic system. It is required to be situated between the residence and the drainage field. Each and every septic installation must begin with a soil test, and depending on the results, soil conditions may necessitate the placement of the tank in a less-than-ideal site for digging sewer lines. Also required are minimum setback distances from property borders, functioning wells, surface water and other obstructions to provide a safe working environment.

Tank Depth

A standard septic tank has a 4-inch intake at the top, which is positioned towards the bottom. Ideally, a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the pipe from the house should be maintained by the pipe connecting to it. To put it another way, for every 10 feet of distance between a tank and a home, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches lower than where the pipe departs the house at its lowest point. The pipe usually exits at ground level, although it may need to pass beneath a foundation footing or concrete pad in rare cases.

Digging the Trench

The trench for the septic pipe should be dug before the hole for the tank since you will need a backhoe to complete the work and the tank will get in your way if it is already in the ground. To allow rainfall to drain properly, the pipe should be placed on a 2- or 3-inch bed of drain rock, so remember to account for this extra depth when digging.

It is normal to use a four-inch pipe, and it should be installed far enough down to link with the main soil stack, which is a three-inch pipe that runs vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof of the home.

Precautions

Local building and health agencies will demand permits for a septic tank installation. You will also be required to submit a design plan before the permits will be provided, so prepare ahead of time. This layout should be developed in collaboration with a local builder who is familiar with the unique characteristics of the topography in your neighborhood. Stay away from planting trees or plants near the tank, drainage field, or any of the pipe systems. They will be drawn to the pipes in their hunt for nutrition, and their roots will be able to successfully block them.

Removal may be both expensive and time-consuming.

How to Avoid Utility Lines When Digging in Your Yard

The desire to dig trenches or holes in your yard might be prompted by a variety of different factors. In addition, there might be a plethora of different sorts of utility pipes and wires running through your lawn at various depths, any of which could result in a costly or hazardous accident if you cut into a line while digging. Underground utility wires lie beneath millions of kilometers of home lawns across the United States. It is possible to cause a tragic accident by accidently cutting into one of these lines, which might cause major service disruptions or even death.

Reasons For Calling 811 Utility Marking Services

• There are a variety of reasons why you might be required to dig trenches or holes in your yard. There can be an equal number of various types of utility pipes and wires running through your lawn at varying depths, any one of which could result in a costly or deadly disaster if you cut into a line while digging, so be cautious when digging. In the United States, underground utility wires lie beneath millions of kilometers of home lawns. It is possible to cause a tragic accident by accidently cutting into one of these lines, which might cause significant service disruptions or even death. The good news is that there are reliable methods for determining the location of subsurface utility wires before you start digging.

Utility Lines Marked vs. Not Marked

When a finding service comes to your home, certain utilities are clearly identified, while others are not so clearly indicated.

Usually Marked

• Power lines, cable TV or internet service lines, and telephone service lines are all examples of electrical service wires. Drainage systems and water mains
• Natural gas distribution lines

Usually Not Marked

• Power lines, cable TV or internet service lines, and telephone service lines are all examples of electrical service wiring. Pipelines carrying sewage and water
• Natural gas supply lines

Can You Find Utility Lines by Yourself?

Generally speaking, you can determine the approximate direction of utility lines on your own; however, you should always check the location with a locating service before digging. Trenches are dug and dirt or sod is put over the top of the trenches when new services are added to the house over time. Trench sites are rapidly forgotten if they are not clearly indicated. Utility line locations are seldom shared to new homeowners when a house is sold or transferred from one family to another. The depth to which these facilities must be buried varies from one location to another.

In order to install irrigation piping or low-voltage landscape lighting, homeowners may need to dig shallow holes.

The same homeowner who relocates to a warm region, on the other hand, may be surprised to discover that the water and sewer lines are rather shallow.

How to Find Utility Lines by Yourself

In order to determine the general position of a utility line, it is necessary to first identify the line’s beginning and ending sites, and then draw a mental line connecting the two spots. As an example, in order to determine the general course of the water line from the street to your house, you must first determine which location on your street is the point at which the water line enters your yard.

This is typically the case with the water meter. After that, locate the place at which the water line enters your home. Consider drawing a straight line between the two places in order to obtain a basic idea of where the water line goes across your property.

Warning

This procedure does not provide a decisive result. Check for utilities by having the local 811 agency come to your property and mark the location of the utilities. Never attempt to discover a power line by poking a hole through the earth.

How Deep Are Utility Lines Buried?

• Electrical conduits must be a minimum of 24 inches deep
• Gas conduits must be a minimum of 24 inches deep. Water should be at least 12 inches deep, but there may be another 12 inches below the frost line as well. The cable is 12 inches in depth. The depth of the phone is 12 inches. Landscape with Low Voltage 1-2 inches deep for lights
• 1-3 inches deep for lights

Coordinated 811 Utility Mark System

In 2005, the federal government of the United States designated 811 as the nationwide number to call for notifying 71 distinct regional services that coordinate locating actions for underground public utilities throughout the United States and its territories. While the program is known as Call Before You Dig throughout the majority of the country, it is referred to as Dig Safe in the New England region. The following is how the procedure is carried out:

1. Call 811 two or three days before you want to dig to ensure that the service is available (the lead time required varies from region to region). You will be connected to a central call center when you make a phone call. Describe your intended digging job to the dispatcher and respond to any queries they may have. It is the dispatcher’s responsibility to contact any public utilities in your region who may be harmed by your digging job. In other circumstances, private firms operating under contract with utility corporations will be responsible for the actual finding and labelling of the facilities. In other cases, staff of the utility company will be responsible for the task. During a visit to your property, workers will mark the ground with paint or flags to identify the location of underground utility cables and pipelines. It is believed that the marks are good for around one month after they have been applied because the water-soluble paint might wash away over time. Before you begin excavating, be sure that all of the utilities have been indicated. It is recommended that you call 811 again and have the marking done again if your work will not commence for 30 days or more after the original marking was done.

Typical Utility Line Color Codes

• White represents the proposed excavation
• Pink represents the survey markings. Electricity is represented by the color red
• Gas, oil, and steam are represented by the color yellow
• And communications and alerts are represented by the color orange. Blue represents potable water. Purple denotes reclaimed water or irrigation
• Green denotes sewer.

Limitations of 811 Utility Location Service

Utility lines will be marked up to the point where they make their initial connection to the residence or service meter through the use of this free 811 coordination service. Unless these secondary lines extend underground, such as from a house to a separate garage or shed, the 811 coordination service will not be able to determine the position of these additional lines. These secondary lines are regarded to be the property of the owner, rather than the property of the utility provider. Furthermore, 811 does not coordinate locating services for any service wires or pipes that are not deemed public utilities or that have been placed by private entities and are not coordinated by the utility company.

In some cases, you may be required to pay a fee for this service.

Regional Services

In certain locations, aggregated services are available that are comparable to those available on a national scale—but on a smaller, regional basis. Here are a few examples of bigger services:

• On a smaller, regional basis, several communities offer aggregated services that are comparable to the national services. Among the more significant services are:

Individual states frequently maintain web pages that provide information on safe digging techniques and procedures. They are readily located by putting “811 (state name)” into the address bar of your web browser. They are now typically coordinated with the national 811 service, although they may provide extra services as well. Example: Local aggregated services may allow you to schedule appointments online, or they may connect you with private location services that, for an additional fee, will locate and mark any private utility lines on your property that are not covered by 811 and can help you avoid damage to your property.

Tips for Digging Around Utility Lines

• Maintain a minimum distance of 18 inches between your trenches or holes and 811 marks. The equipment used to identify subterranean wires are not always accurate, and according to 811 criteria, holes or trenches should be maintained at least 18 inches away from either side of indicated lines on either side of the line. It is necessary to review your notes if you have installed underground wires or pipelines yourself in order to establish their placement. Most irrigation pipes and low-voltage cables will be shallow, thus drilling a series of test holes by hand can aid in the identification of these pipes and wires. There are private locator services that will search your land for a charge and detect any underground pipes, conduits, and wires that may be present on your property. Non-public utility lines that were installed by private enterprises, in particular, benefit from this. Digging gently is a good idea. In order to avoid accidentally digging up irrigation lines or landscape lighting conduits and wires, dig deliberately and gently, periodically checking the excavation for unexpected pipes or cables.

Utility Lines and Septic

When draining a septic tank, utility wires are always a source of anxiety. Septic tanks are placed underground at Peachtree City, Tyrone, Newnan, Fayetteville, Senoia, and Sharpsburg, among other cities. If any of these septic tanks have to be dug up to pump them, there is a potential that an underground utility will be hit during the process. In order to comply with Georgia law, Firehouse Septic always calls 811 to have any underground utility lines tagged before to beginning any excavation work.

1. The homeowner is responsible for any other utilities that are installed, such water lines, sprinkler lines, French drains, or landscape lighting, which are considered private utilities.
2. A water line installation firm is not required by law to find a septic tank prior to installation or even to avoid laying the water line immediately over a septic tank if the tank is not visible.
3. If a homeowner does not know where his or her water line is buried, there is no equipment or procedure that can be used to locate it.
4. The homeowner, on the other hand, might not be aware of the location.
5. Companies that provide sprinkler systems are often the last to install their products while a house is being constructed.
6. A sprinkler system, on the other hand, is often dispersed over a yard with no rhyme or reason, and the sprinkler heads cannot be identified just on the location of the sprinkler lines.
7. The most important thing to do is to be aware of the location of your septic tank and how to get to it if necessary.

Please contact Firehouse Septic if you are unclear of where your tank is located so that we may come out and find it for you in order to spare you a hassle in the future while pumping your septic tank.

How to unclog your leach field

A SHOCK TREATMENT CAN SAVE YOU UP TO $150. The leach field, also known as a drain field, is the area where effluent from the septic tank is disposed of. In this stage of the septic system, a network of perforated PVC drain pipes, crushed stone, and a layer of unsaturated soil are combined to form a septic system. Gravity is typically responsible for the movement of wastewater from the septic tank to the leaching bed. Nevertheless, when the conditions do not permit the use of gravity to transport the wastewater to the leaching bed, a pumping station can be utilized to transport the wastewater to the leaching bed.

Final filtering is carried out by the presence of bacteria and other microorganisms that further purify the wastewater before it reaches the groundwater table.

It does, however, become clogged from time to time.

How is a leach field made?

It is critical that the leaching bed functions well in the wastewater treatment system, and if it does not, the entire system will be adversely affected. It is also critical to prevent structural problems from occurring in the first place by ensuring that the building is designed correctly. As a result, only fully licensed contractors are permitted to do such a project. But, first and foremost, you will need to conduct a percolation test as well as a comprehensive review by an engineering professional.

A quick percolation rate is seen in sandy soils; whereas, a sluggish percolation rate is found in clay soils.

In order for a soil to be considered excellent, its percolation rate should not be too high or too low.

If, on the other hand, it takes more than an hour for the water to settle, this indicates that the effluent is not infiltrating quickly enough, which might result in backflow difficulties.

Steps followed when building a leach field

• The moment has come to start digging the trenches after all of the testing have been performed and the building plan has been finalized and approved by the project team. The number of trenches that will need to be built depends on the size of the septic tank and the volume of wastewater that will be released into the leaching field throughout the construction process. Each trench should have the same breadth as the others (approximately 3-4 feet). In addition, the ditches should have a modest downhill slope to them. Following the excavation of the trenches, they should be filled with crushed stone. The crushed stone bed should be at least one to one and a half inches thick and evenly distributed throughout the ditches. This procedure is critical because it enables for more effective drainage of the effluent under the perforated pipes
• Nevertheless, it is not required. The perforated pipes are then laid on top of a bed of crushed stone to allow for proper drainage. Crushed stone is then placed on top of the perforated pipes to ensure that they are securely attached — enough to prevent them from moving or getting misaligned over time. A layer of crushed stone between 1 and 3 inches thick should enough.
• Following that, a geotextile membrane is laid over the crushed stones. When the membrane is in place, soil or dirt cannot slip between the crushed stones and cause a blockage in the leaching bed. If you haven’t already, install a drain line from the septic tank to the leach field pipes. Finally, the trenches are filled with dirt to make them more level and to make the surface of the leach field more consistent in appearance. After that, you may cover the area with a covering of grass. And, at all costs, avoid planting anything else in or near this part of the yard.

How long does a septic leach field last?

Weeping beds should last at least 25 years if they are well-maintained, but they may live much longer or shorter depending on a variety of conditions. The majority of leaching fields collapse as a result of biological or hydraulic overstress. Hydraulic overload occurs when an excessive amount of water is discharged into the septic tank. Consequently, it is advised that duties such as washing be spread out throughout the course of the week rather than being completed in a single weekend session.

When an excessive amount of organic material enters the leaching field, this is referred to as biological overloading.

The only solid waste that should be disposed of in your septic system is toilet paper and human waste (feces).

Additional to this, we advocate the frequent use of biochemical additives to improve the overall efficiency and lifetime of the system. Because of the high activity of the bacterial flora in your system, Bio-Sol’sSepti +can help to avoid biological overload in your system.

What is clogging your leach field?

The leaching bed, like the septic tank, is not meant to survive indefinitely. All leaching fields will need to be replaced at some point in the future. However, with careful care and maintenance, your leaching bed should last for many years, if not for a lifetime. The leaching bed utilizes aerobic bacteria on the receiving soil to filter wastewater before it reaches the groundwater table, preventing groundwater contamination. These bacteria decompose organic materials and aid in the elimination of viruses as well as the reduction of nutrients in wastewater.

Clogging in the leaching bed, on the other hand, causes this process to be slowed down, resulting in unavoidable environmental contamination.

Biomat

During the wastewater treatment process, a black, gelatinous layer forms beneath the distribution pipes as the wastewater passes through the leach field. Rather than sludge, this layer is really a biomaterial sludge known as “biomat.” Because the biomat is waterproof, it significantly minimizes the amount of wastewater that percolates into the soil. In most cases, this biomat is formed of organic waste and anaerobic bacteria that have attached themselves to the soil or broken stone. The organic stuff in the effluent provides food for these bacteria.

• Contrary to this, it aids in the further filtering of wastewater by reducing the rate of infiltration and retaining the organic matter before the water is allowed to reach the soil.
• More black gelatinous sludge builds up in the trenches, the more difficult it will be for the wastewater to permeate and subsequently percolate into the soil as a result of the accumulation.
• As soon as sewage begins to back up, it will always flow to the spot that provides the least amount of resistance.
• When this occurs, the objective should not be to entirely remove the biomat from the environment.
• It is important to note that good care and maintenance of the system will assist in preventing such an imbalance, which will save you a great deal of headache (like having to unclog your leach field).

How do you know if your leach field is failing?

It goes without saying that the most visible indicator of a failing leaching bed is when wastewater overflows and reaches the surface. The effluent will rise to the top of the soil or, in certain situations, will pour out the end of the trenches if the receiving soil in the leaching bed is unable to absorb any more water from the receiving soil.

The most common reason for the effluent to stop flowing is due to an excessive amount of biomatis being created. Check out the following indicators to determine if you need to unclog your leach field:.

Sluggish drains and toilets

Prior to the drain field failing altogether, you may notice that water is draining through the home at a slower rate. The drains will continue to function as long as there is enough space for the water to flow. On the other hand, it is possible that the water is draining more slowly. If you neglect this problem, which is caused by the leach field, the situation will deteriorate over time and become more serious. It is possible that the septic tank will become overflowing and that the water will be unable to penetrate into the earth at all.

Septic odors

Septic tank scents might be detected in the vicinity of the leaching area or within the house itself. Another sign that the leaching field is failing is the presence of rust. Due to the fact that it is so uncomfortable, this is perhaps one of the easiest indicators to recognize. To determine if you are experiencing the rotten egg smell, first check to see if there has been a buildup of organic material in the plumbing system. You may either use an ecologically friendly drain cleaner (such as SeptiDrain) or check your septic tank for abnormally high water levels to resolve the problem.

Sewage backing up in the house

In the case of clogged septic fields, water is returned to them, which causes the water level in the septic tank to rise. Water will back up through the hole in the septic tank or into your home if there isn’t enough room left in the tank. The leach field in your septic tank is almost certain to be the source of the problem if you see an excessively high water level in the tank. The water level in the septic tank should always be at or below the level of the drain pipe that connects the tank to the leaching field.

It is thus required to determine whether the soil has been saturated as a result of recent high rainfall or snowmelt, as well as to determine whether there has been a recent hydraulic overload.

However, if the situation persists, we can conclude that the leaching bed is no longer operating correctly (it is most likely clogged).

Greener and taller grass around the drainfield

A sign that your leach field is not operating correctly is the presence of higher, greener grass in the area where it’s supposed to be placed. When wastewater is unable to penetrate the soil, pressure can force it to rise to the surface, causing it to become visible. Because of the nutrients in the wastewater, the grass might grow more quickly and seem greener as a result of this.

Puddles of water in the yard

Puddles on the field may indicate that a hydraulic overload has forced water to come to the surface. If this is the case, contact the field superintendent immediately. When a leach field becomes blocked, the pressure builds up, forcing the water to rise. Large amounts of wastewater can practically pool on the ground when released into the environment. If the water smells like rotten eggs, avoid touching it and keep your children away from the area until the scent has been eliminated.

There have been instances where perforated pipes in the leach field have either disconnected or broken. If a large car has passed by, it is possible that this is what is causing the sewage to back up. Otherwise, a blockage is more likely to be the source of the problem.

Soil sinking or collapsing over the leachfield

The presence of excessively damp soil where the leaching bed is placed may also be an indicator that the leaching bed is no longer performing effectively, according to the manufacturer.

How to unclog your leach field?

When you find an issue with your leaching bed, you should make an attempt to fix it as quickly as possible. If this is not done, the condition may worsen and result in wastewater overflows. Those spills are potentially hazardous to both you and the environment. Also prohibited is the pollution of the environment, and local authorities may order you to replace your septic system if you fail to comply with the law. In addition to promoting the growth of biomat, as previously described, the discharge of organic particles into the leaching bed generates an imbalance in the natural water filtration system.

1. As a consequence, a waterproof biomaterial sludge is formed, and this sludge significantly reduces the rate of infiltration of wastewater into the receiving soil, which is abnormal.
2. Because of this, it is necessary to minimize the accumulation of organic matter in leaching fields and to reduce the thickness of the sludge layer that clogs the leaching fields.
3. However, the one offered by Bio-Sol is without a doubt the quickest, easiest, safest, and most ECONOMIC method available!
4. These shock treatments are 100 percent environmentally friendly (and hence safe), and they are simple to do on your own.
5. It is typically necessary to introduce a high concentration of these bacteria and enzymes into the leaching bed in order to break down the organic waste that has collected in the leaching bed and unclog the leach field.
6. The result is that your septic system is back in operating order!
7. The majority of the time, this occurs when a large truck passes by.
8. If this is the case, you should use a camera to evaluate the area to ensure that there is no structural damage.

How much does a new leach field cost?

Choosing to repair your leaching bed will almost certainly necessitate the replacement of your complete septic system as well. You will require a fresh percolation test as well as an appraisal by an engineer with appropriate qualifications. When using a standard septic system, you may expect to pay between $5,000 and $12,500 for the installation and maintenance. However, if you require the installation of a more sophisticated system, the cost of the replacement will be significantly higher (between $15,000 and $30,000).

As a result, we highly recommend you to attempt to resolve the problem first by selecting one of the alternative options that have been provided.

PROMOTION TO ASSIST YOU IN UNCLOGGING YOUR LEACH FIELD: By visiting our monthly specials page, you can receive a discount on a shock treatment. To save even more money, click here: SAVE UP TO 150$ ON A SHOCK TREATMENT WITH THIS PROMOTION.

Conclusion

A blocked leach field will jeopardize the integrity of the entire system. It can result in sewage backups in the house, septic smells, sewage leaking on the yard, and groundwater contamination, among other problems. Unclogging your leachfield with shock treatment can help you to avoid these and other problems associated with leachfield failure in the future. It is the injection of billions of bacteria and enzymes into the sewage system through the use of biological additives that is known as shock treatment.

This septic-safe solution from Bio-Sol is manufactured from bacteria and enzymes, and it will clear your leach field without harming the bacteria or enzymes in your system.

Bringing a No-Dig Approach to Fixing Septic Systems

Derek Vesely, Kyle Jacobson, Mitch Fountain, and Tucker Schroeder are members of the Ken-Way crew, seen from left to right. A Cat mini-excavator may be seen in the background.

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Receive Excavating articles, news, and videos delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Excavating+ Receive Notifications The three partners who purchased Ken-Way Excavating were seeking for a niche in the sites installation industry when they purchased the company. They discovered their niche in pipe bursting for the replacement of old septic service pipes. Keeping the task underground rather than on the surface reduces fuel usage, allowing them to prolong the work season in their chilly zone around Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and making customers happy by reducing the amount of debris left behind by trench construction.

“When I returned home to Iowa from Denver, I discovered that sewer contractors were performing this service on a daily basis,” he recalls.

Additionally, the concept might be expanded to incorporate pipelines that transport water or natural gas.

From simple gravity systems, maybe with a sand filter, to systems that use Ecoflo Biofilters (Premier Tech Aqua) for more limited settings, the task is diverse.

Bursting Out

Ken-Way now employs pipe bursting equipment manufactured by HammerHead Trenchless Equipment. They have a PB30 pipe replacement machine for replacing 4-inch pipe. It is a compact machine that is well suited for confined locations. Other-sized machines are used for larger-scale sewer main work. Furthermore, despite usual demonstrations or web films show equipment busting clay pipe, the equipment is capable of far more than that. Using a device from Connectra Fusion Technologies, technicians link HDPE SDR-17 replacement pipes to form a seamless connection.

• Not every work lends itself to being blown apart.
• According to Fisher, when the replacement has a bigger diameter, the volume of dirt displaced may become a concern as well.
• Sandy material is simpler to remove than glacial tills, although hard-packed sand might potentially be a problem due to its ability to compact.
• It is those other pipes that may be compromised as a result of the shifted dirt.
• For bursting, further preparations are necessary.
• It is possible to replace a pipe with an offset junction or a pipe that has collapsed.

It is not recommended to replace an old pipe that has a lengthy belly since the absence of suitable bedding will result in the new pipe having the same shape as the old one’s belly. After the work is completed, Ken-Way televises the line once more to check that the task has been completed correctly.

Many Advantages

According to Fisher, bursting is far superior to excavating a trench in situations where it is possible. The reasoning goes as follows: “Why have an open trench 60 feet long when you can have two pits?” You may securely prepare two trenches without having to lug a trench box around behind you. Bursting takes approximately the same amount of time as replacing a pipe, but it is far less risky for the personnel involved. He explains that while purchasing bursting equipment increases your expenditures, “this is countered by the reduced danger and lower fuel costs because you are not burning as much as you would when digging.” Customers are also happier as a result of the reduced amount of property damage.

• It was important to the owners not to harm any of the trees in their yard, so they did not dig around them.
• Pipe bursting is especially useful in narrow spaces where an excavator arm, even a mini-excavator, is unable to swing about freely.
• Ken-Way personnel installed pipe bursting equipment in the basement and rebuilt the pipe leading from there to the septic tank instead of tearing down and replacing it with a deck.
• In addition, the company’s hydroexcavator contributes.
• An excavator was unable to operate due to the restricted space on the job site.
• We were able to put up the pipe bursting equipment in four hours after the crew finished cutting a pit,” Fisher explains.
• The boys cannot be sent out on days when the high is in the single digits because we cannot justify it.
• “However, during the coldest months of January or February, we normally just take a few days off,” he explains.

We’re Cat Lovers

With the exception of a Yanmar excavator, all of the equipment that Ken-Way employs is manufactured by Caterpillar. 330F is the biggest excavator in their fleet, with 303.5 being the smallest. In addition, the firm has six Mack dump trucks (the majority of which are equipped with Henderson Products dump bodies) and a GapVax hydroexcavator, which is mounted on a Peterbilt platform. Fisher believes that deciding on Cat was simple, and that a large portion of the selection was influenced by the local dealer.

1. If we have an issue that we can’t solve, we only have to pick up the phone and it will be taken care of,” he says.
2. Ken-Way rotates equipment based on the information stored in its database.
3. In addition, each machine is assigned a number, which allows the partners to look up the history of a particular machine and see how much money has been spent on it over time.
4. Bulldozers, for example, are made to last, according to Fisher.

Skid-loaders, on the other hand, are a different matter. After 2,500 to 3,000 hours, they are exchanged out due to the fact that the company’s records reveal that maintenance expenses skyrocket after that.

Taking Care of Business

Dan Zamastil is in charge of the shop and the equipment used by the firm. When something goes wrong at the firm, the employees are aware that they must contact Dan. A large portion of the maintenance is completed in-house, including jobs such as repairing a bulldozer. If one of the vehicles’ transmissions fails, Dan arranges for it to be repaired by a third-party shop outside the company. Pat, his brother, is in charge of operations and scheduling. Fisher is in charge of the administrative tasks, as well as estimating and reviewing contracts.

• We regard one another more as brothers than as business partners.” Building a successful firm requires the development of a talented team.
• They are looking for someone who will fit in with the team and who is ready to learn, since the proper individual can be taught the abilities he or she will need to accomplish the job well.
• “We now have a fantastic set of gentlemen.” Several of them have been with us for a significant amount of time, and we have every intention of retaining them for a significant amount of time.” He asserts that competitive remuneration is unquestionably a factor in employee retention.
• Every year, the firm performs performance evaluations with each of its staff members.
• Going on business trips may also provide benefits to the organization.
• Because “we’re only as good as our staff,” Fisher explains, “paying tuition is an investment in our future.” Ken-Way is already a well-known brand with a positive image, according to Fisher.
• Relationships between the firm and local plumbers are also important considerations.
• Ken-Way also provides opportunities for education.
• Example: A presentation may include how septic tanks function or what real estate agents should look for in an existing system — age, kind of system, pipe materials, and so on — that could have a favorable or negative impact on a buyer or seller’s decision to buy or sell.
• As well as representatives from their own company, Ken-Way also brought in representatives from HammerHead and a pipe manufacturer.

After the workshop, one of the engineering companies in attendance contracted Ken-Way for a huge sewage replacement project, but the information shared at the workshop was beneficial to more than just Ken-Way.

Business Transition

The three business partners all grew up on the same street in the same town as one another. According to Fisher, “we’ve been involved in the industry since we were little children, via family members, through high school, through college, and after college.” The former owner of Ken-Way was a family friend, and when he was ready to retire from the firm, he approached Fisher and the Zamastils about purchasing it from him and his family. They crunched the data, devised a strategy, and sealed the transaction over the phone in a matter of minutes.

septic, sewage, and water business owned and operated by a family.

A number of functions were also relocated inside the organization.

“We have grown significantly, but we do not rely just on expansion.” According to Fisher, “our aim is expansion and strength – being stronger inside the niches that we have established thus far.” That entails emphasizing services such as hydroexcavation and pipe bursting, which are not typically performed by most excavation businesses on their own.

In Fisher’s opinion, “if we could identify a demand for three additional hydroexcavators in our region, it would be the best place for us to expand.” That does not necessarily imply that this is where they will develop.

“What it boils down to,” Fisher explains, “is that you have to be willing to grow in order to take advantage of the chances that present themselves.”

DIY Technology Focuses on the Necessitites

Ken-Way Excavating is owned and operated by Charlie Fisher and his partners, who like to keep everything in-house for more control and efficiency. Similar thinking is at work when it comes to how the organization makes use of technological resources. Fisher uses QuickBooks for general accounting and cost monitoring, but he prefers to design his own bespoke templates for specific projects. According to Fisher, “we utilize a lot of Excel spreadsheets for anything from estimation to a lot of our different forms that we’ve designed in-house.” “It is clear to me what I want a daily work sheet for our personnel to complete when I am putting one up.

He may open his spreadsheet template and make whatever changes he sees fit, such as changing the layout or adding things that are special to that particular work.

Each page is labeled with a task code.

We have several that are specifically for people who drive dump trucks.

There’s also a separate set for the professionals who will be installing the systems on-site “Fisher expresses himself.

Additionally, there are distinct codes for each type of service, such as commercial work or hydroexcavation, which are shown below.

“It is possible for me to retrieve a cost report at any moment and see how much money we are making or losing on septic repairs in particular. It’s possible for me to break it down further per job if you’re interested.”