- Dig a trench that’s 4 × 26 × 3 ft (1.22 × 7.92 × 0.91 m). Use either a shovel or an excavator to make a hole in the spot where you want your tank. Keep digging until the hole is 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, 26 feet (7.9 m) long, and 3 feet (0.91 m) deep. You can usually rent excavators for digging from a heavy machinery supply store.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
Can you use a 55 gallon drum for a septic tank?
In areas with no zoning or building restrictions, 55-gallon drums or barrels may still be used as a temporary solution before other more permanent methods of waste containment are put in place. Dig a hole in line with the bathroom 10 feet away from the structure that needs a temporary septic tank.
How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?
How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.
What is the smallest septic tank available?
If you’re looking to install a septic system, the smallest tank size you’re likely to find is 750-gallon, which will accommodate one to two bedrooms. You can also opt for a 1,000-gallon system, which will handle two to four bedrooms.
What size septic tank do I need for a tiny house?
Tiny homes typically require a 500 to 1,000-gallon septic tank. Though, it’s not always possible to implement a tank of this size. In some states, for example, the minimum tank size is 1,000 gallons. There may be exceptions to this rule if your home is on wheels.
What to put in septic tank to break down solids?
Yeast helps actively breaks down waste solids when added to your septic system. Flush ½ cup of dry baking yeast down the toilet, the first time. Add ¼ cup of instant yeast every 4 months, after the initial addition.
Dos & Donts
DosDontsniftyadmin2022-02-01T18:18:38+00:00 Make an appointment for a free on-site quote now!
Do’sDon’ts for a Healthy Septic System
Deceased bacteria = non-operational septic system = PROBLEMS = RENOVATIONS
- Use your waste disposal only when absolutely necessary. Because it has not been digested by the body, ground-up food is particularly difficult on the septic system to deal with it. The usage of your garbage disposal on a regular basis puts a strain on the system’s ability to digest particles and causes your septic tank to fill with sludge. Your system will suffer as a result of this, both physiologically and chemically. Food waste should be disposed of in a rubbish can or compost pit. Roof drainage, basement drainage, footing drainage, and surface water must all be kept out of the system in order for it to function properly. Unless otherwise specified, this drainage water can be dumped directly to the ground surface without treatment
- However, it should be directed away from your sewage treatment system. There should be no drainage of roof downspouts into the drain field. While it is not typically required to connect your laundry wastes to a separate waste system (dry well or seepage pit), doing so will lower the strain on the regular system and allow a mediocre system to survive. Keep swimming pools (above-ground or in-ground) away from the absorption field to avoid contamination. When washing garments, make sure you use the appropriate load size. Try to avoid washing all of your laundry in one sitting. This will aid in preventing sediments from being pushed out into the drain field by flow spikes. Always avoid allowing large pieces of equipment to travel through the absorption field. Installation of a ditch or berm to capture surface water from higher terrain that is running into your absorption field is recommended. Have your septic tank pumped out every 3-5 years (depending on the number of people living in the home) to avoid sludge buildup that can lead to drain field collapse and other problems. It is recommended by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) that homeowners have their septic system inspected by a qualified professional at least once every three years, and that a 1000 gallon septic tank should be pumped once every 3.7 years in a household of three people and once every 1.5 years in a household of six people
- To ensure that you have a valid septic permit, contact your local health district (link to district health). Locate and identify the location of your septic tank (drain field and tank). Keep a sketch of it with your maintenance records in case a service technician has to see it. Keep your replacement area to a minimum. Each drain field has a position where it may be changed if the situation calls for it. If you build on or too near to this region, it may cause problems if the original drain field needs to be rebuilt later on. Consider the fact that a properly built and maintained drain field has an average lifespan of around 20 years. Maintain your septic system on a regular basis by introducing the appropriate sort of bacteria/enzyme product to your septic system through your toilet or kitchen sink drain. Including a product such as “BioClean” in your cleaning routine helps to replenish the bacteria that has been killed by your typical household cleaning chemicals. ABC Pumping Services may be contacted at (208) 954-5339 for more information.
- Planting trees or bushes over or near the septic system or over the drain field is not recommended since the roots will grow into the system and interfere with the correct operation of the system. When washing dishes, do not allow food waste or organic waste to run down the drain. If you want to “feed” your septic system, don’t flush meat, buttermilk, yeast, veggies, beer, or anything else down the drain. This is incorrect information, and it will cause your septic system to overwork. Keep faucets and toilets from dripping or running. Leaving excess water running continuously might cause your drain field to become overloaded, or “waterlogged.” You should avoid flooding the drain field with extra irrigation water. Drain-O, Red Devil, and Liquid Plumber, among other caustic drain openers, should not be used to unclog a clogged drain. This will cause the healthy bacteria in your septic system to be killed out. Drain openers such as a snake or bacterial enzyme drain openers should be used instead of items that claim to sanitize, sterilize, disinfect, destroy germs, or be antibacterial. Antibiotics, sanitizing soaps, disinfection and antimicrobial cleaning solutions such as Lysol and Clorox, to mention a few examples, are included in this category. Antimicrobial compounds are now found in many body and hand soaps
- Do not flush harmful chemicals down the toilet, such as home chemicals, paints, gasoline, acids, or pesticides
- And do not flush down the toilet antimicrobial chemicals. When treated on a regular basis with an enzyme/bacterial stimulant product such as BioClean, detergents, kitchen wastes, laundry wastes, and home chemicals in modest amounts have no effect on the correct operation of domestic sewage treatment systems. Excessive doses of any of these, on the other hand, can be dangerous
- Please do not flush fats, oils, or grease down the toilet. Toilet tank pills or liquids should not be used to clean your toilet since they can harden and cause clogging over time
- Instead, use a toilet plunger to clean your toilet. Diapers, kitty litter, cigarettes, plastic-rubber items, dental floss, baby/hand wipes, cotton products, paper towels, or feminine hygiene products should not be flushed down the toilet since these harsh chemicals destroy beneficial bacteria in your septic system
- Instead, use a garbage disposal. These items are indestructible
- They never need to be replaced.
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Septic System Replacement Fund
In order to assist households in replacing cesspools and septic systems, the Septic System Replacement Fund Program provides financial assistance to local governments. According to the information provided below, participating counties will award grants to property owners to pay them for up to 50% of the expenses (up to a maximum of $10,000) of their qualified septic system projects. In order to select priority geographic regions in which property owners are eligible to participate, the state Department of Environmental Conservation and the Department of Health considered the following factors:
- The presence of a single-source aquifer that provides drinking water
- And Water quality impairments associated with failed septic systems that have been documented, and/or the ability of septic system modifications to reduce water quality problems
In future financing rounds, the DEC and the Department of Health and Human Services will re-evaluate priority waterbodies.
In accordance with program requirements, participating counties are responsible for assessing and analyzing the applications and determining whether or not to offer financial assistance. In making this determination, the following factors are taken into account: the position of the property in respect to a waterbody, the influence on groundwater that is utilized for drinking water, and the state of the property owner’s present septic system Following the evaluation of the applications and the determination of funding decisions, the participating counties notify the property owners of their grant awards by mailing them grant award letters.
- Installation, replacement, or upgrading of a septic system or septic system components
- Or, replacement of a cesspool with a septic system
- Or Installation of modern treatment technologies, including a nitrogen removal system, to improve water quality.
- Costs associated with system design and installation
- System costs
- System components
- Enhanced treatment methods
- Costs of design (limited exclusively to the effort required to complete the approved design)
- Maintenance on a regular basis, such as pumping out a septic tank
- Expenditures that have not been properly reported
- Fees charged by the government
- Interest and late fees
- Fines and penalties are levied. Payment of sales tax
- Site beautifying or internal plumbing changes that aren’t absolutely necessary
- The engineer is in charge of the administrative tasks. if the engineer, or a business owned, managed, or employed by the engineer, is also responsible for the repair or replacement, the engineer will observe the construction process
Maintenance on a regular basis, such as pumping out a septic tank. expenditures that have not been properly documented Interest and late fines, as well as the cost of the government permission. In addition to fines and penalties Payment of the sales tax owed Beautification of the site or internal plumbing modifications that are not required; The engineer is in charge of administrative tasks. if the engineer, or a business owned, managed, or employed by the engineer, is also responsible for the repair or replacement, the engineer will observe the construction process.
|Participating County||Eligible Waterbodies||Local Program Contact|
|Allegany||*Canacadea Creek, Upper, and minor tribs (0503-0005)||Tyler J. Shaw585-268-9254|
|Broome||Park Creek and tribs (0601-0031)*Whitney Point Lake/Reservoir (0602-0004)*Fly Pond, Deer Lake, *Sky Lake (1404-0038)||Creig Hebdon607-778-2863|
|Cayuga||Owasco Lake (0706-0009)Lake Como (0705-0029)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-South (0705-0050)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-North (0705-0025)Cayuga Lake, Northern End (0705-0030)Skaneateles Lake (0707-0004)||Eileen O’Connor315-253-1244|
|Chautauqua||*Findley Lake (0202-0004)Chautauqua Lake, North (0202-0072)||William T. Boria, P.G.P: 716.753.4772F: 716.753.4344|
|Chenango||*Chenango Lake (0601-0013)*Guilford Lake (0601-0012)||Isaiah SuttonP: 607-337-1673 F: 607-337-1720|
|Clinton||*Upper Chateauguay Lake (0902-0034)Isle LaMotte (1000-0001)||Ryan Davies518-565-4870|
|Columbia||Robinson Pond (1308-0003)Copake Lake (1310-0014)||Edward Coons|
|Cortland||Skaneateles Lake (0707-0004)||Michael J. Ryan|
|Delaware||Susquehanna River, Main Stem (0601-0020)||Nick Carbone607-832-5434|
|Dutchess||Hillside Lake (1304-0001)Sylvan Lake (1304-0029)||Marie-Pierre Brule845-486-3464|
|Essex||Willsboro Bay (1001-0015)Lake George (1006-0016)||Hannah Neilly518-873-3686|
|Genesee||Tonawanda Creek, Middle, Main Stem (0102-0002)Bowen Brook and tribs (0102-0036)Bigelow Creek and tribs (0402-0016)Oatka Creek, Middle and minor tribs (0402-0031)||Thomas Sacco585-344-2580 Ext. 5496|
|Hamilton||Lake Eaton (0903-0056)||Erica Mahoney|
|Herkimer||North Winfield Creek and Tribs (0601-0035)||Jim Wallace|
|Jefferson||Moon Lake (0905-0093)Guffin Bay (0303-0025)Saint Lawrence River, Main Stem (0901-0004)*Red Lake (0906-0039)*Indian River, Lower, and minor tribs (0906-0021)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0005)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0030)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0031)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0032)||Sara Freda315-785-3144|
|Lewis||Beaver River, Lower, and tribs (0801-0187)||Casandra Buell|
|Livingston||Conesus Lake (0402-0004)||Mr. Mark Grove585-243-7280|
|Monroe||Irondequoit Bay (0302-0001)Mill Creek and tribs (0302-0025)Shipbuilders Creek and tribs (0302-0026)Minor Tribs to Irondequoit Bay (0302-0038)Hundred Acre Pond (0302-0034)||Gerry Rightmyer585-753-5471|
|Nassau||County Wide||Brian Schneider516-571-6725|
|Onondaga||Skaneateles Lake (0707-0004)Seneca River, Lower, Main Stem (0701-0008)||Jeffrey Till315-435-6623 Ext. 4503|
|Ontario||Honeoye Lake (0402-0032)*Canadice Lake (0402-0002)*Canandaigua Lake (0704-0001)*Hemlock Lake (0402-0011)*Seneca Lake, Main Lake, North (0705-0026)*Seneca Lake, Main Lake, Middle (0705-0021)||Megan Webster585-396-1450|
|Oswego||*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Eastern (0303-0030)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Eastern (0303-0031)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Eastern (0303-0017)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Oswego (0302-0040)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Central (0302-0041)||Donna Scanlon315-349-8292|
|Otsego||Goodyear Lake (0601-0015)Susquehanna River, Main Stem (0601-0020)||Tammy Harris607-547-4228|
|Putnam||Oscawana Lake (1301-0035)East Branch Croton, Middle, and tribs (1302-0055)Palmer Lake (1302-0103)||Joseph Paravati845-808-1390 Ext. 43157|
|Rensselaer||Nassau Lake (1310-0001)||Richard Elder|
|Saint Lawrence||Saint Lawrence River, Main Stem (0901-0004)Raquette River, Lower, and minor tribs (0903-0059)Little River and tribs (0905-0090)||Jason Pfotenhauer315-379-2292|
|Saratoga||Dwaas Kill and tribs (1101-0007)||Dustin Lewis518-885-6900|
|Schoharie||Summit Lake (1202-0014)||Shane Nickle518-295-8770.us|
|Schuyler||Waneta Lake (0502-0002)Lamoka Lake and Mill Pond (0502-0001)||Darrel Sturges607-535-6868|
|Seneca||Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-North (0705-0025)Cayuga Lake, Northern End (0705-0030)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-South (0705-0050)||Tom Scoles315-539-1947|
|Steuben||Smith Pond (0502-0012)*Almond Lake (0503-0003)Waneta Lake (0502-0002)*Lamoka Lake and Mill Pond (0502-0001)*Keuka Lake (0705-0003)||Matthew Sousa607-664-2268|
|Suffolk||County Wide||Joan Crawford631-852-5811|
|Tompkins||Cayuga Lake, Southern End (0705-0040)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-South (0705-0050)||Liz Cameron607-274-6688|
|Warren||Lake George (1006-0016)||Claudia Braymer|
|Washington||Cossayuna Lake (1103-0002)Lake George (1006-0016)||Corrina Aldrich|
|Wayne||Blind Sodus Bay (0302-0021)Lake Ontario Shoreline, Central (0302-0044)||Lindsey Gusterslagn315-946-7200|
|Westchester||Lake Meahagh (1301-0053)Truesdale Lake (1302-0054)||Heather McVeigh|
|Wyoming||Java Lake (0104-0004)Silver Lake (0403-0002)Oatka Creek, Middle, and minor tribs (0402-0031)||Stephen Perkins585-786-8857 ext. 5163|
* Only eligible for funding in Round 1 of the competition.
Last updated on October 19, 2021
Frequently Asked Questions
The program is handled by participating counties, and each county has a Local Program Contact who can assist in determining eligibility and the following stages in the program’s administration and implementation.
Please refer to the Participating Counties section of this website to identify your county’s Local Program Contact and make contact with them directly.
My county is not listed on the eligible county list, am I eligible?
You are not eligible for the program if your county is not mentioned in the Participating Counties section of the website. However, you may wish to contact your local County Health or Planning Department to see if there are any additional services available to you that the county may be able to provide.
I do not see my waterbody listed as one of the Eligible Waterbodies, can it be added to the program?
The finalized list of qualifying waterbodies for Round 2 has been released. The law that established the program was aimed at improving water quality in waterbodies that had recorded deficiencies due to septic system contamination at the time of its inception. In order to comply with the legislative intent of the program, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation developed screening criteria for Round 2 that were focused on documented water quality impairments and the potential for septic replacement to improve water quality to improve water quality.
How do I provide NYSDEC water quality data that my local group collects?
Please keep in mind that the links in this response will take you away from the EFC website. During the data solicitation period, all information should be sent to the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation. The data solicitation period for the 2020/2022 Integrated Report/(303(d) List) is now ongoing. Making Waves, a monthly e-newsletter from the DEC Division of Waters, published an announcement in the Environmental Notice Bulletin on May 19th and the Environmental Notice Bulletin on May 21st.
Making Waves will be delivered to your inbox on a regular basis.
I live in one of the five NYC Boroughs, is my property eligible for the program?
Because New York City is still in the process of expanding its sewage infrastructure, none of the five boroughs (Bronx, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Queens, or Staten Island) are eligible for the State Septic Replacement Program at this time. Sewerage is the most effective method of improving water quality. People who have septic systems on their properties or who are considering installing septic systems are invited to contact the New York City Department of Environmental Protection to learn about their alternatives.
SEWER CERTIFICATION AND CONNECTION PERMITS FROM THE NYCDEP (EXternal Link)
Forms for County Use
A home’s construction year and whether a copy of the septic permit is accessible determine the procedure for locating a septic tank on a property, which might take many weeks or months. Please choose one of the scenarios listed below and follow the instructions.
For homes built in the last five (5) years or less
Obtain a copy of your septic tank permit from your local Department of Health and Human Services office. Please fill out as much of the information below as possible to help us expedite the search:
- Number of the tax map
- Lot number
- Block number
- Address in the physical world
- When the system was installed or when the house was built (if this information is available)
- Name of the original permit holder (if any information is available)
- Name of the subdivision (if the property is located within a subdivision)
A copy of a septic tank permit can be obtained from a local DHEC office by any individual or group, regardless of whether or not they own the land in question.
For homes older than five (5) years or if a copy of the septic permit was not able to be located.
It is recommended that you call an experienced septic contractor who will come to the site and assist you with the identification of the current septic system.
You may find a list of licensed septic installers by clicking here.
Septic Tank Alerts Septic Tank Alerts
How to Construct a Small Septic System
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a modest system that is intended for limited use by two persons who do not need to do laundry.
- When compared to a conventional house septic system, this system employs two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are utilized in a standard home septic system.
- Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be advised that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner may be liable to a fine if the system was discovered in operation by a health official.
- Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.
- It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.
Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks
- 1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them lighter
- 2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. As soon as the flanges are in position, tighten them down so they don’t move or shift once they are in place. Advertisement
- s3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw and drilling them out. Advertisement
Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground
- Prepare each drum by drilling a hole in the top of each one that is equal in size to the outer measurement of the toilet flange. To determine the outer diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using, first measure the inside diameter. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the future. To cut through the drums, use a saber saw. 2 Using a toilet flange, each hole should be 4 in (10 cm) wide. The flanges should be flat against the top of each tank when installed. As soon as the flanges are in position, tighten them down so they do not shift or move. Advertisement
- s3 The first drum should have a 4 in (10 cm) hole in it on the opposite side of the drum from the top hole. In order to align the hole with the hole on the top of the tank, it should be roughly 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) down from its maximum height. 4 Use a saber saw or a hole saw to cut the hole in the wall. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles from the center of the hole on the top, one on either side of the drum’s opening. Locate the center line that runs through the centre of the hole on the top of the drum and down the center of it. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum to use as a reference. Make your holes in the barrel’s side by cutting through it with a saber or hole saw. Advertisement
- Excavators for excavating are often available for hire from a heavy machinery supply company. Look for equipment rentals on the internet
- 2Place the drum at the end of the trench, with one side hole drilled in it. When you place the drum on the floor, make sure it is level. Check to see sure the drum’s top is at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the surface of the water. 3 Dig a hole that is one foot (30 cm) deeper than the first to accommodate the positioning of the second drum in front of the first. In order to ensure a tight fit and prevent the drum from shifting, make your hole the same diameter as the drum you’re inserting in it. 4 The hole should be leveled with gravel until a 90-degree curve can be made to connect the top drum’s hole on one side to the toilet flange on the other. Check the alignment of the holes in the 90-degree bend between the two drums by dry fitting it between the two drums. If you need to improve the alignment of the pipe line, dig the hole a little deeper. 5 To make the bend, cut 31 2in (8.9 cm) pieces of ABS pipe and adhere them to the bend with epoxy or hot glue. With a hacksaw, cut the ABSpipe parts, also known as nipples. 6 Insert the pieces into the bend and hold them in place using PVC adhesive. Check the fit between the two drums to ensure that they are in alignment. Insert the end of the 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipple into the side hole of the first drum and tighten the nut. 7Glue the end of the 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple into the toilet flange on the second tank, making sure that the nipple on the other end aligns with the hole on the top of the second drum. To hold the bent in place, apply PVC adhesive to the inside of the curve. Don’t be concerned about the link to the first drum just yet
- You’ll make that connection later. 8. Glue a Y-bend to a 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple, and then bend the angled piece of the Y-bend at a 45-degree angle. Using your PVC adhesive, attach a nipple to the end of the Y-bend and let it dry. Assemble the Y-bend and align the angled pipe on it so it meets the incoming waste line, then glue it onto the toilet flange. 9 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipples are cut and glued to one end of the 45-degree bends at the bottom of the lower drum, and they are then inserted into the side of the lower drum. Directional bends are defined as those that are perpendicular to the bottom of the trench at their ends. Advertisement
Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes
- Put a stake into the ground and level it with the bottom of each of the 45-degree bends. 2Put a stake into the ground and level it with the top of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what sort of stakes you use since they all work. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the stakes into the ground. Attach a one-inch-wide block to the end of a four-foot-long (1.2-meter-long) level using duct tape. This will assist you in ensuring that you create sloped drain pipes so that your tanks can empty
- 3Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
- 4Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
- 5Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one. Drive the stake down until it is the same height as the first one using your hammer or mallet
- 4 Place the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second stake to complete the level without the block. Continue to pound the second stake into the ground until the level is balanced. 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the previous post, or 1 inch (0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm)
- 5Repeat this method until you have stakes running the whole length of the trench
- Continue to place stakes down the rest of the trench every 37 8feet (1.2 m) from the last one, ensuring that the stakes slope away from the drums
- 6Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes
- 7Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes The gravel will now slope away from the drums at a rate of 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance
- 7Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the second drum
- 8Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the third drum
- 9Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the fourth drum
- 10P Insert the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower drum to complete the installation. 9Make certain that the perforations in the pipes are facing down so that liquids may soak back into the earth
- 8checking the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1 4in (0.64 cm) slope is consistent throughout the length of the pipe. Fill up any gaps in the slope by adding or removing gravel under the pipe. Seal the 45-degree and 90-degree bends that connect the lower and top drums, respectively, with silicone. For the greatest seal possible on your drain pipes, use a two-part epoxy or silicone caulk. For this purpose, consider utilizing flex pipe, which will yield a little bit if the ground changes. Tenth, fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of all the gravel. Place the remaining gravel over the trench and into the bottom drum, covering it completely. 11Lay landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. As a result, the dirt will not be able to seep into the gravel and you will be able to keep proper drainage on your tanks
- 12Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting it to the original grade. When you have finished filling up the area with your dirt, check to see that the ground is level. 13Fill the upper drum with water, leaving the top pipe from the first tank exposed so that you can readily reach the tanks if you need to drain them later. 14Fill the lower drum with water. Fill the top drum with water and pour it directly down the exposed pipes on the bottom drum. Continue filling the drum until it is completely filled, then secure the top with a cap to keep out the elements. Advertisement
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- The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line
- Instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connection. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than the top. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is several inches deeper towards the bottom. Solids either float or sink depending on their density. They don’t seem to congregate in the middle. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank, and the solids are never seen again. The same procedure should be followed for each of the drainage pipes that originate from the second barrel. Just to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global drain field, the waste is dumped into the first tank, with the solids settling to the bottom of the first tank. Whenever the liquid level exceeds the outfall to the second tank, it is drained into the tank below it. If there are any solids present, they will sink to the bottom. Whenever the liquid from the second tank reaches one of the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion. Over time, the vast majority of the solids will liquefy and disperse. Solids may accumulate at the top of the tank after many years, necessitating the removal of the solids. Thirty percent of the waste is absorbed into the earth, with the remaining seventy percent being dissipated by sunshine. It is important not to compress the soil since this would interfere with the evaporation process
- The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank after it is entirely filled with solids
- The depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one depicted, you will need to dig the trench deeper or shallower to suit the new line depth or height. It’s not that difficult to find out. In the event that you have a septic system that is too shallow, it may be more susceptible to damage. After a period, you may discover that the ground has sunk below the trench’s location. Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it
- It is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipe. In addition, you must have the necessary tools to dig the trench (or be ready to put in a lot of effort).
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- This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.
Things You’ll Need
- 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
- 80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscaping fabric
- 9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums
- 10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)
- 4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
- 4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
- 3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)
- 2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
- Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers
- And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
- Duct tape
- 4 in (10 cm) ABS detachable cap
- 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
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Protocol for Onsite Sewage System Abandonment
- There are occasions when the usage of an onsite sewage system (OSS) or its components must be ceased, either because of a connection to a sanitary sewer or because the system must be replaced because of a malfunction. In order to properly terminate the usage of an OSS or a component, it is necessary to follow the appropriate abandonment or removal processes. It is essential that all tanks are properly abandoned in order to avoid future safety problems caused by uncontrolled tank openings or tank collapses. Other components may be removed by the homeowner for a variety of reasons, including aesthetics and practicality. The homeowner is liable for the abandonment and removal of the property from the property. If the abandonment or removal process poses a harm to the health or safety of individuals performing the procedure, the homeowners, or other members of the community, it is critical to take precautions. In order for the OSS to be free of pathogens, the pathogens must be able to survive and reproduce in the OSS components, which include septic and dosage tanks, distribution boxes, and sand mounds as well as subsurface soil absorption fields, among other things. After reviewing relevant literature, it was discovered that the following factors influence pathogen survival in an OSS after its use has been discontinued:
- The major factors that influence the survival of enteric pathogens in soil are moisture content, moisture holding capacity, temperature, pH, and sunlight Survival durations have been seen to be longer in wet soils (with a high moisture content) and during periods of heavy rainfall, for example. Sandalwood soils have a shorter survival duration than loam soils because they have lesser water holding capacity. The bacteria Salmonella typhosa could live between 4 and 7 days in sand that dried quickly due to limited moisture retention. This was true during dry weather. A study found that enteroviruses lasted just 15-25 days in samples of air-dried soil, but they survived 60-90 days in samples containing 10 percent moisture. Number one, infections have a shorter survival time when temperatures are higher. Winter survival periods have been found to be much longer than summer survival times. A Salmonella typhosa infection can last for up to 24 months when kept at freezing conditions. In one study, exposed soil plots were exposed for 3.3 days in the summer and 13.4 days in the winter before a 90 percent reduction in the quantity of fecal coliforms was achieved. In addition, it was discovered that poliovirus survival was higher in the winter than in the summer in Cincinnati, Ohio, according to the study. 1. It has been claimed that Cryptosporidiumoocysts can remain latent in soil for several months if temperatures are kept cold and the soil is kept wet under the right conditions. 3) The bacteria Salmonella typhosa, E. coli, and Streptococcus faecalis die off in a few days in soils with pH values ranging from 2.9 to 4.5, but they may survive for many weeks in soils with pH values ranging from 5.8 to 7.8. 1
- Shorter survival periods have been recorded at the soil surface, where the pathogens are exposed to more sunlight than at other locations. This might be owing to the harmful effect of ultraviolet light, which is found in sunshine, on infections, as previously stated. 1
- The impact of these elements on the abandonment of an OSS will differ based on the season and soil type. Another issue to consider is the variety of pathogens that are present in the system. Consequently, it is hard to predict a certain time period after which the cessation of an OSS would offer no harm to persons who have been exposed to the procedure. In order to lessen the likelihood that the abandoning of an OSS may pose a health or safety issue, it is recommended that the following suggestions be followed: The use of personal protective equipment and the taking of required occupational precautions are strongly recommended for anyone who will be participating in these processes.
- Sometimes the usage of an onsite sewage system (OSS) or its components must be ceased owing to a breakdown of the system or its components, or because the system must be connected to a sanitary sewer and replaced. Abandonment and removal processes must be performed if an OSS or any of its components is no longer required for usage. The appropriate abandonment of all tanks is essential in order to avoid future safety problems caused by unprotected tank openings or tank collapses. Other components may be removed by the homeowner for a variety of reasons, including aesthetics or practicality. The procedure of abandonment and removal is the responsibility of the homeowner. If the abandonment or removal process poses a harm to the health or safety of those performing the operation, the homeowners, or other members of the community, it is critical that this be addressed. This is determined by the amount of pathogen retention and survival that occurs in the OSS components, such as the septic and dose tanks, distribution boxes, soil mounds, and subsurface soil absorption fields, as well as the amount of pathogen retention and survival that occurs in the surrounding environment. A survey of the literature found the following information about pathogen persistence in an OSS after its usage has been discontinued:
- The moisture content, moisture holding capacity, temperature, pH, and sunshine are the primary parameters that influence the survival of enteric pathogens in soil. In wet soils (high moisture content) and during periods of heavy rainfall, longer survival times have been observed. Soils with lesser water holding capacity, such as sandy soils, have a shorter survival duration. With limited moisture retention in sand, Salmonella typhosa might live for 4-7 days in dry weather if it was exposed to fast drying conditions. Enteroviruses survived just 15-25 days in samples of air-dried soil, but they lasted 60-90 days in samples containing 10 percent moisture, according to the researchers. Number one, infections have a shorter survival time when temperatures are elevated. When compared to summer, winter has been found to have longer survival durations. Salmonella typhosa is capable of surviving for up to 24 months in subzero conditions. 3.3 days in the summer and 13.4 days in the winter in exposed soil plots, according to one study, was required to achieve a 90 percent decrease in the quantity of fecal coliforms. Also noted in Cincinnati, Ohio, was that poliovirus survival was higher in the winter months than it was in the summer months. 1. It has been claimed that Cryptosporidiumoocysts can remain latent in soil for several months if temperatures are kept cold and the soil is kept wet. 3) The bacteria Salmonella typhosa, E. coli, and Streptococcus faecalis die off in a few days in soils with pH values ranging from 2.9 to 4.5, but they may survive for many weeks in soils with pH values ranging from 5.8 to 7.8 1
- Pathogens have been found to have shorter life periods at the soil surface, where they receive more sunshine exposure. According to some theories, this is owing to the pathogen-damaging action of ultraviolet light, which may be found in sunshine. 1
- The impact of these elements on the abandonment of an OSS will vary based on the season and the soil type. 1
- Another issue to consider is the sort of diseases that are prevalent in the environment. There can be no assurance that an OSS will be abandoned at a point in time after which it will provide no harm to individuals who are exposed to the process. The following guidelines should be taken in order to limit the likelihood that the abandoning of an OSS may pose a health or safety issue. The use of personal protective equipment and the taking of required occupational precautions are recommended for those who will be participating in these processes.
- If there are no intentions to use the land for any other purpose, it may be possible to leave the components of the absorption field in place. Maintain a healthy vegetative cover. It is necessary to cover effluent-covered regions with hydrated lime followed by top soil in order to produce a vegetative cover. If any of the following components of the absorption field are to be eliminated:
- Give yourself plenty of breathing room once the system has been taken out of operation and the tanks have been drained to ensure that the whole absorption field is fully dry. Hire a qualified septic tank cleaner to pump out all of the contents from all of the distribution boxes in the system. Remove the distribution network, aggregate, and sand (if any) from the site with the assistance of a contractor. The items must be disposed of in a landfill that has been approved by the state. Grading and establishing vegetative cover should be done properly.
- Groundwater Pollution Microbiology, by G. Bitton and C. P. Gerba. Gerba CP, Wallis C, Melnick JL. Journal of the irrigation and drainage division. 101, 1975: 157
- Meinhardt PC, Casemore DP, Miller KB. Epidemiologic Reviews. 18 (2), 1996: 118
- Gerba CP, Wallis C, Melnick JL. Journal of the irrigation and drainage division. 101, 1975: 157
- Gerba CP, Wallis C, Melnick JL. Journal of the irrigation and drainage division. 101,
Protocol for the Abandonment of an Onsite Sewage System in PDF format –
How Long Do Septic Tanks Last?
A septic tank is an element of a system that collects wastewater and treats it. If you reside in a remote region without access to a centralized sewer system, this may be the only option available to you for disposing of and treating wastewater generated by your home’s plumbing. So, how long does a septic tank survive on average? Exactly when should you consider upgrading or replacing your septic tank? Continue reading to find out more.
How Long Do Septic Tanks Last?
A septic tank has a lifespan of 15 to 40 years depending on the conditions. The entire system is comprised of a tank and a soil absorption field, often known as a drainfield. By separating floatable stuff like oil and grease from solids that gather at the bottom of the tank, the tank is able to effectively treat organic waste.
Factors that Affect the Life of a Septic Tank
Septic tank life expectancy is affected by a number of factors. Here are some of the most important.
Steel septic tanks are strong and long-lasting, but they will rust with time, particularly if they are built in acidic soil. These tanks display apparent symptoms of rust from the bottom up, indicating that they will live for up to 15 years at a time. A regular check is required to ensure that your tank is in proper working order. Concrete septic tanks are more robust and have a longer lifespan than other types of septic tanks. Maintaining a concrete tank on a regular basis might extend its life to 40 years or more.
Fiberglass is the most expensive alternative, but it also lasts the longest and requires the least amount of upkeep.
It is possible for a well-maintained tank with a sound pipe system to survive more than 50 years.
Having the tank adequately pumped will help to extend its useful life. You should also get it inspected by a professional on a regular basis to ensure that any cracks are repaired before they become more problematic. The pumping system will remove the liquid waste from the tank, but the solid waste will remain in the tank until the pumping system is replaced. This solid waste must be eliminated in order for the tank to continue to work properly.
It is important to ensure that the septic tank is properly placed since this will assist to extend its life. In addition, you must ensure that the piping system is built to remove waste on a regular basis in order to avoid the building of pressure and the formation of clogs.
It is important to pay attention to the location of your septic tank since bad soil conditions might shorten the life of your septic tank’s tank.
It is possible for acidic soil to cause the septic tank to exhibit indications of wear and tear more quickly. The soil should also have sufficient drainage in order to absorb liquid waste as quickly as possible.
An overworked sewage tank in a business establishment or a busy family will not survive as long as an underworked septic tank in a less-used household. Having a secondary system to dispose of waste in your home and only using your primary septic system for emergencies will help to extend its life span significantly. It will also require less upkeep in the long run. Pay close attention to the materials you put into your septic tank as well. If you are cautious about the stuff you flush down the toilet, your septic tank will last longer.
When Should You Replace your Septic Tank?
Septic systems that are based on soil discharge liquid waste from the septic tank into a network of pipes that are buried in a leach field or chambers that allow the liquid waste to be released gently into the soil. Other methods rely on pumps or gravity to allow liquid waste to flow gently through sand, sawdust, or wetlands, therefore reducing pollution. Disease-causing bacteria and other toxins are eliminated from the environment during this procedure. Your septic tank is in need of repair if you see any of the following indicators.
However, after a period of time, it will be more cost effective to replace the septic tank rather than repair it.
- There is a strong, foul stench emanating from the septic system, indicating that it is not functioning correctly. Backflowing wastewater is causing problems in your domestic plumbing, causing it to overflow into sinks and toilets
- Because the earth around your septic system is saturated, The area around the septic system is lush with bright green grass.
How Can You Maintain Your Septic Tank?
Maintaining your septic system will ensure that it continues to function properly for the longest length of time. Here are a few pointers on how to keep your septic tank in top working order.
- Keep in mind that the tank should be entirely emptied every three to five years, depending on how frequently it is used. This will get rid of the solid waste that has accumulated at the bottom of the tank because this trash has an impact on the tank’s construction, as opposed to liquid waste that can be drained. When you leave it too long before cleaning the tank, the waste will back up into your piping system and cause flooding. Because all of this wastewater will eventually make its way into the septic system, it is important to save water. You will save money on your electricity bill and you will also ensure that your septic system will survive as long as possible if you are cautious with your water usage. Maintain vigilance over the items you flush down the toilet. Because these materials do not biodegrade, harsh chemicals and excessive volumes of detergents might cause the tank’s structure to disintegrate more quickly than expected. Diapers, feminine hygiene products, and other objects might become entangled in your pipe system, preventing effective drainage of liquid waste from draining properly. Chemicals can also have an effect on the live organisms that are responsible for decomposing the biological waste in your septic tank. Despite the fact that these live creatures are required for wastewater treatment, the chemicals present in detergents, household cleansers, and paints will kill them.
A properly working septic system may be the sole option for disposing of and treating wastewater generated by your residence. To ensure that the system is operating properly, it is necessary to pay close attention to its performance. A septic tank’s lifespan can range from 15 to 40 years, depending on the materials used and how often it is inspected and maintained. Some types of septic tanks have a longer lifespan than others, particularly if they are constructed of high-quality materials.
Septic System Do’s and Don’ts – Septic Tank and Septic System Services, Repairs, Installations in New Jersey
Skip to the main content MenuClose Take note of these suggestions on what to do and what not to do if you have a septic system for waste management at your residence or place of business. A decent rule of thumb is: if you haven’t eaten it, wouldn’t eat it, or couldn’t eat it, don’t put anything in the septic system.
Septic System Do’s
- Spread out your laundry usage over the course of the week rather than doing many loads on one day. However, while it may be handy to dedicate a whole day to laundry, doing so would place a significant strain on your septic system. Consider connecting your laundry trash to a separate waste disposal system to save money (dry well or seepage pit). While it is not generally essential, it will minimize the pressure on the regular system and allow a mediocre system to survive. Laundry loads should be spaced out and only complete loads should be washed. In order to complete one load of laundry, 47 gallons of water are required. It makes a significant difference to your septic tank if you just do one load every day rather than seven loads on Saturday. In addition, front-loading washers consume less water than top-loading washers
- Liquid laundry detergent should be used. Clay is used as a ‘carrier’ in powdered laundry detergents to transport the detergent. This clay can expedite the building of sediments in the septic tank and perhaps fill the disposal area
- Reduce the number of home cleaners (bleach, strong cleansers, and similar harmful compounds)
- And reduce the amount of fertilizer and pesticides used. Home sewage treatment systems are not adversely affected by the presence of detergents, food waste, laundry waste, and other household chemicals in reasonable proportions. Don’t forget to keep a permanent record of where the most important sections of your septic system are situated in case you need to do future maintenance (such as septic pumping service or field repairs)
- Schedule septic pumping service on a regular basis. Every two to three years, or if the total depth of sludge and scum surpasses one-third of the liquid level of the tank, the contents of the septic tank should be drained out. It is possible that the sediments will be transferred into the absorption field, or leach field as it is more frequently known, if the tank does not receive regular cleaning. A rapid blockage ensues, which is followed by a premature failure, and eventually the leach field must be replaced. In comparison to rebuilding your leach field, pumping your septic tank is less costly. Instead of using the inspection ports located above the inlet and exit baffles, insist on having your septic tank cleaned through the manhole in the center of the top of your septic tank. Don’t forget to keep track of your septic pumping service and septic system maintenance. When at all feasible, conserve water by using water-saving gadgets. Reduced flush toilets and shower heads are readily available on the market. Install water fixtures that consume little water. Showerheads (2.5 gallons per minute), toilets (1.6 gallons), dishwashers (5.3 gallons), and washing machines are all examples of high-volume water users (14 gallons). A family of four may save 20,000 gallons of water per year by putting fixtures such as these in their home. Inspect any pumps, siphons, or other moving elements in your system on a regular basis
- And Trees with substantial root systems that are developing near the leach field should be removed or prevented from growing there. Planting trees around your leach field is not recommended. Branches and roots from trees in close proximity to the absorption lines may clog the system. Check your interceptor drain on a regular basis to verify that it is free of obstructions
- And Run water routinely down drains that are rarely used, such as sinks, tubs, showers, and other similar fixtures, to prevent harmful gases from building up and producing aromas within
- All drainage from the roof, cellar, and footings, as well as surface water, must be excluded from the drainage system. It is permissible to discharge drainage water directly to the ground surface without treatment. Check to see that it is draining away from your sewage treatment facility. There should be no drainage of roof downspouts into the leach field. When water softeners are used, the backwash contains salt, which might harm your leach field. In order to protect your well and precious plants, you should discharge this waste into a separate system or to the ground surface. Make sure that swimming pools (above-ground or in-ground) are kept away from the leach field.
Septic System Don’ts
- Rather than doing many loads on one day, spread your laundry out across the week. However, while it may be handy to devote a whole day to laundry, doing so would place a significant strain on your septic system. Consider connecting your laundry trash to a separate waste disposal system to reduce waste (dry well or seepage pit). Although it is not generally essential, it will minimize the pressure on the regular system and allow a mediocre system to survive. Do your clothes at intervals, and only full loads should be washed each time. In order to do one load of laundry, 47 gallons of water is required. Septic tanks benefit greatly from only one load each day as opposed to seven loads on Saturday. Front-loading washers use less water than top-loading washers, and liquid laundry detergent is more environmentally friendly than powder detergent. Clay is used as a ‘carrier’ in powdered laundry detergents. This clay can expedite the building of sediments in the septic tank and perhaps fill the disposal area
- Reduce the number of home cleaners (bleach, strong cleansers, and similar harmful compounds)
- And reduce the amount of fertilizer and pesticides. Home sewage treatment systems are not adversely affected by the presence of detergents, kitchen waste, laundry waste, and other household chemicals in reasonable proportions. Don’t forget to keep a permanent record of where the most important sections of your septic system are situated in case you need to do future maintenance (such as septic pumping service or field repairs)
- Schedule septic pumping service at least once a year
- Every two to three years, or if the total level of sludge and scum surpasses one-third of the liquid depth of the tank, the contents of the septic tank should be drained. As a result of not cleaning the tank on a regular basis, the sediments are taken into the absorption field, or leach field, as it is more often known. Early failure and eventual replacement of the leach field are caused by congestion that happens quickly. In comparison to rebuilding your leach field, pumping your septic tank is more affordable. Instead of using the inspection ports located above the inlet and exit baffles, insist on having your septic tank cleaned through the manhole in the middle of the top of your septic tank. Don’t forget to keep track of the septic pumping service and septic system upkeep. If at all feasible, conserve water by using water-saving gadgets. Frequently accessible are low-flush toilets and shower heads. Low-water-use fixtures should be installed. Bathroom fixtures such as showerheads (2.5 gallons/minute), toilets (1.6 gallons), dishwashers (5.3 gallons), and washing machines (2.5 gallons/minute) (14 gallons). With the installation of fixtures such as these, the average household may minimize the quantity of water entering their septic system by around 20,000 gallons per year. Inspect any pumps, siphons, or other moving parts in your system on a regular basis. Trees with extensive root systems that are developing near the leach field should be removed or prevented from growing there. Planting trees in the vicinity of your leach field is not recommended. Clogged absorption lines may be caused by tree roots growing in close proximity to them. It is important to frequently inspect your interceptor drain for obstructions and to verify that it is free flowing. Run water routinely through drains that are rarely used, such as sinks, tubs, showers, and other similar fixtures, to prevent harmful gases from accumulating and generating aromas within the house. It is necessary to eliminate from the system all roof, cellar, and footing drainage, as well as surface water. It is permissible to discharge drainage water directly to the ground surface without treating it. Check to see that it is draining away from your sewage system. There should be no drainage of roof downspouts into the leachate field. Your leach field may be damaged by the salt found in the backwash from water softeners. In order to keep your well and precious vegetation safe, you should discharge this waste into a separate system or to the ground surface
- Maintain a safe distance between swimming pools (above or below ground)
- Cigarette butts, disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, tampons, handi-wipes, pop-off toilet wand scrubbers, garbage, condoms, hair, bandages, and so forth
- Ragstrings, coffee grounds, paper towels, anti-bacterial soaps – biodegradable soaps only
- No “biocompatible soaps”
- Ragstrings, coffee grounds, paper towels Dead fish or small animals
- Rubber, plastic, or metallic things
- Hard toilet paper – soft toilet paper is preferable for the tank.
Excessive use of chlorine and chemicals should be avoided – (1 part chlorine 5 parts of water is a good spray bacteria cleaner) Backwashes/discharges from water softeners, purifiers, sanitizing or conditioning systems; dehumidifier and air-conditioner discharges; hot tub and jacuzzi discharges should be avoided at all costs. Water from leaking devices, such as toilets that are difficult to detect. Keep in mind to dye test the toilet on a regular basis to look for leaks in the sewage system. Keep dirt and inert materials to a minimum.
Chemicals from x-ray equipment should not be disposed of, even if they are diluted, since they will condense in the disposal system and eventually harm the subsurface environment, which is against the law!
Keep grease from the kitchen OUT of the septic system.
There are currently no commercial solvents for dissolving these oils that are safe to use around drinking water supplies.
Household systems cannot function properly if additives are used.
It is possible that some additives will damage your groundwater.
Many of those that market their services as “solid waste removal” really deliver on their promises.
When the solids reach the disposal area, they shut up the space and cause the system to malfunction.
Furthermore, although it is not harmful, it is not required to “seed” a new system with yeast or other organisms. Ample bacteria are found in normal human waste to support the septic tank, and more germs are already present in the soil and stones of the waste disposal location.