How To Install A Clean Out For A Septic Tank? (Question)

co.thurston.wa.us

Locate the drain line as it leaves the home. Most septic tanks are located a minimum of 10 feet from the home. Choose a location approximately 5 feet from the home in which to install the clean-out.

Where do you install cleanouts?

Cleanouts shall be installed at each change of direction greater than 45 degrees (0.79 rad) in the building sewer, building drain and horizontal waste or soil lines.

What is a septic clean out?

“Cleanouts” are pipes running from a septic system up to ground surface, to facilitate “snaking,” jet cleaning and other maintenance and trouble-shooting tasks. Usually this above-ground access pipe is found at the beginning of a septic system – in between the house and the septic tank.

How far apart are septic Cleanouts?

Cleanouts shall be installed not more than 100 feet (30 480 mm) apart in horizontal drainage lines measured from the upstream entrance of the cleanout.

Why are there 2 sewer cleanouts?

A two-way cleanout provides access in both directions. With this U-shaped cleanout, we are able to use it to access both the yard and the house lines.

What are the signs that your septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

Your Drains Are Taking Forever.

Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
You Hear Gurgling Water.

You Have A Sewage Backup.
How often should you empty your septic tank?

Can you pump a septic tank from the clean out?

No. Even if a hose could fit down the cleanout, this still would not provide a thorough cleaning. The tank should be pumped from the actual access lid(s) on the tank, which are usually buried 6-12 inches below the surface of the ground.

What does a clean out valve look like?

What is a Cleanout Valve? Your clean out valve is the place where your sewer line has a valve that can be opened to facilitate clearing of clogged pipes. It is usually made out of white plastic or steel and looks like a cap. It is usually about 3-4 inches in circumference.

How far should a septic tank be from a house?

Most importantly, a septic tank must be at least seven metres from a house, defined as a ‘habitable property’. Septic tanks are built underground and release wastewater slowly into the surrounding environment. For this reason, they must be a set distance away from a home.

How do I find my septic tank outlet pipe?

The outlet pipe should be approximately 3 inches below the inlet pipe. Inlet Baffle: The inlet baffle is installed on the inlet pipe inside the tank.

What to do after septic is pumped?

After you have had your septic tank pumped by a trusted septic company, there are some things you can and should do as the septic system owner.

1) Get on a Schedule.
2) Take Care of the System.

3) Know the Parts of Your System.
4) Check Other Possible Issues.

Tips for Installing Accessible Clean-Outs

Receive articles, news, and videos about Systems/ATUs sent directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Systems/ATUs+ Receive Notifications A thorough cleaning is necessary for all systems. The installation of a clean-out at an exterior wall of a residence or company is recommended in case the system ever has to be jetted or cleaned. The clean-out allows all of this work to be completed outside, ensuring that any mess is contained to the outside. There is the risk that the clean-out will be disguised within the house, as well as the danger of a significant leak.

A clean-out that is both directions Clean-outs should be easily accessible from the surface and, where necessary, should be housed in a protective enclosure such as a valve box.

The clean-out at the exterior wall may be located either within or outside the building, and it should be manufactured with a complete “Y” branch fitting that extends at least 2 inches above grade or finished floor, unless when a flush cover is required in high-traffic sections of the structure.

It is recommended, and in certain cases, mandatory, that the distance between clean-outs in horizontal pipework does not exceed 100 feet in straight lines in straight runs.

Unless put beneath an authorized cover plate or flush with the completed floor, each clean-out in a residence shall be at least 2 inches above grade, easily accessible, and not covered with cement, plaster, or any other permanent finish material, according to building codes.

Clean-outs in soil treatment systems

Clear-outs for pressure distribution pipes should be done to ensure that the system is operating properly and to clean any clogged perforations in the pipe. Access to the clean-outs should be available from the final grade level. These clean-ups should include the following:

Threaded detachable caps or plugs should be installed on the ends of the laterals to enable for cleaning of the laterals and to monitor lateral pressure. To be big enough to enable for the removal of caps or plugs with hands, tools, or other objects

It must be accessible from the ground level

In pressurized laterals, clean-outs are installed at the distal end to allow for the flushing of the system prior to starting, the monitoring of the operating pressure, and the regular flushing away of particles. Sweep clean-outs at 90 degrees The clean-out pipe layout varies, but the most simple and convenient clean-out consists of a 90-degree turn up in the pipe. It is possible to employ two 45-degree elbows or one sweep 90-degree elbow. The usage of these allows the service provider to clean with a pressure washer or bottlebrush since the gradual turn allows for the simple insertion of the pressure line into the pressure line fitting.

Ball valves can also be fitted at the distal end of the lateral in a vertical position as an alternative to the above.

It is necessary to have a hole about halfway up the elbow to ensure that air may re-enter the pipe once the pump has been turned off.
It is advised that rock be placed in the box to plug the perforation in order to prevent effluent from spraying freely into the container.
In colder locations, it is also advisable to include insulation on the lid of this box.

Make certain that the access is completely stabilized in order to prevent movement during backfill activities and after the installation is complete.
a little about the author: Sara Heger, Ph.D., is an engineer, researcher, and lecturer in the Onsite Sewage Treatment Program at the University of Minnesota’s Water Resources Center.
She has given presentations at several local and national training events on topics such as the design, installation, and administration of septic systems, as well as research in the related field.

Send an email to [email protected] if you have any concerns concerning septic system care and operation. Heger will respond as soon as possible.

How to Add a Clean-Out to an Old Septic Line

In pressurized laterals, clean-outs are installed at the distal end to allow for the flushing of the system prior to starting, the monitoring of operating pressure, and the regular flushing away of particles. Sweep clean-outs at 90 degrees. There are several other types of clean-out configurations, but the most simple and convenient clean-out is a 90-degree turn up in the pipe. You may either utilize two 45-degree elbows or one sweep 90-degree elbow. The usage of these allows the service provider to clean with a pressure washer or bottlebrush since the gradual turn allows for the simple insertion of the pressure line into the pressure line socket.

Additionally, ball valves in a vertical position can be fitted at the distal end of the lateral.
In order to ensure that air may re-enter the pipe after the pump has been turned off, a hole must be installed partway up the elbow.

It is advised that rock be placed in the box to plug the perforation in order to prevent effluent from spraying freely within the container.
In colder areas, it is also advisable to insulate the lid of this box.
To prevent movement during backfill activities and after installation, ensure that the access has been properly stabilized.

The author’s biographical information is as follows: At the University of Minnesota’s Water Resources Center, Dr.
She holds a Ph.D.
Many local and national training seminars on the design, installation, and maintenance of septic systems as well as associated research are presented by her.

Send an email to [email protected] with your questions for Heger on septic system care and operation.

Getting Started

Determine the location of the intended clean-out area. Ensure that there is at the very least a clean-out between the home and the sewer line. As an alternative, you may put one on each story of the home
Clean-outs that are to be situated behind walls should be exposed by using a drywall saw to cut through the drywall and reveal the pipe. For outdoor clean-outs, the dirt around and beneath the pipe where the clean-out will be situated must be dug first. Clean the pipe in the region where the clean-out will be installed, and then connect the clean-out to the pipe with a pipe connector. Instructions on how to use the three basic types of pipe frequently found in septic systems are provided below.

Connecting to a Terra Cotta Sewer Line

Using the rubber connection saddle, mark the location of the hole. This saddle will allow the clean-out to be connected to the terra cotta pipe
Make the hole in the terra cotta pipe by gently tapping on it until the terra cotta cracks. Enlarge the hole slowly and steadily, until it reaches the required size. Place the saddle on top of the pipe and tighten it. Align the saddle’s hole with the pipe’s hole by slipping the saddle over the pipe’s hole. To attach the saddle to the pipe, use the hose clamps that came with it. Insert the PVC clean-out pipe into the saddle’s hole using a pipe cutter. Connect the saddle to the pipe once again with the hose clip that came with the saddle.

Connecting to a PVC Septic Line

Cut the current septic line with a PVC or hacksaw to make it more manageable. Glue a T-fitting onto the existing line, making sure to attach both ends of the cut pipe to the fitting

And Connect and glue the PVC septic clean-out pipe to the “T” part of the fitting
This will prevent the pipe from leaking.

Connecting to a Cast Iron Septic Line

Cut the cast iron pipe where the connection is to be formed with a chain-style cast iron pipe cutter before continuing. To connect cast iron pipe to PVC pipe, use a rubber T-boot manufactured specifically for this purpose. To secure the boot to the cast iron pipe, use the hose clamps that were provided. Insert the PVC clean-out pipe into the “T” end of the boot and secure it with the hose that came with the vehicle.

Finishing Up

The opposite end of the PVC clean-out pipe should have a threaded pipe plug glued to it. Access to the septic line will be made possible by this detachable stopper, which will also prevent septic gases from going through the septic clean-out pipe. Replace the drywall with a cover that has been particularly designed to conceal the cut drywall while yet allowing for simple access in the future. Typically, they may be found at most home improvement stores, mainly around the HVAC or plumbing supplies. If the clean-out was installed in the yard, the pipe should be buried. Either totally cover it with earth or use a utility lawn box made specifically to conceal hidden pipes and electrical connections
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Sewer Clean Out for Residential Homes 101

a wooded trail / Photo courtesy of Fotolia Septic system failures can be prevented by utilizing a variety of fail-safes in contemporary plumbing. Your home is well-protected against sewage backups, with everything from drain traps to sump pumps and vent pipes.

The sewage clean out is an extremely vital component of this system, and you should be aware of its existence. Despite its harmless look, having one or more clean outs in your home’s sewage line may have a significant impact on both the health of your sewer line and the health of your wallet.

What is a Sewer Clean Out?

In most cases, the sewer clean out is a capped pipe that is positioned on or near your property line and connects to the lateral sewage line. In plumbing, a lateral sewer line is a pipe that links the sewage lines in your house to either the municipal sewer system or your septic tank. Septic waste can back up into drains when the lateral becomes blocked, causing a nuisance as well as potential health risks for anyone who are exposed to it. Maintaining your sewer pipes and draining water in the event of a backup are two important benefits of having a clean out.

How to Find the Sewer Clean Out

The sewer clean out is a tiny, capped conduit that protrudes from the ground surface. Unfortunately, finding it is not always straightforward. The fact that many homes have several clean outs and, in some rare circumstances, the clean out is actually placed within the house just adds to the complexity of the situation. The methods that follow should assist you in finding the clean out more quickly.

The Sidewalk Should Be Checked– In many localities, the location where your lateral joins the municipal sewer line is indicated on the sidewalk. Along the curb and sidewalk, look for a letter ‘S’ that has been stamped or painted. If you come across this marker, you may easily visualize a straight line from the mark to your house, where the lateral may be located if you look closely. In certain situations, you may even be fortunate enough to come upon a clean out in the neighborhood of where you are looking. Search Near Your Foundation– In many circumstances, locating the sewer clean out near the road is impractical, or the home’s former owners elected to have more than one sewer clean out built. In these cases, you should search near your foundation. When you have a septic system in place, sewer clean outs are also typically positioned close to the home’s location. If you are more than three feet from the foundation, you will most likely find the cap anywhere between the road or septic tank and the point at which your home’s sewage line exits the foundation and enters the ground
Look for extra clean outs inside– Some homes, particularly older ones, may have clean outs that are either hidden within the structure or protrude from the exterior walls of the structure. Check the basements, crawl spaces, and attic for probable vent pipe sites along with the vent pipe. Most of the time, indoor sewer clean outs will look to be a junction with one side of the Y or T shaped intersection being capped. These are important for keeping your interior pipelines in good condition, even if they are not essential.

What if the Property Lacks a Sewer Clean Out?

It is possible that older properties may not have a sewer clean out. The latter is particularly true if one is not obligated to do so by municipal or state plumbing regulations. It is typically preferable to have one installed in such situations. Sometimes your home has a clean out that has just been covered up by dirt, which is another situation. If you suspect the house has a clean out but have been unable to identify it, you may want to conduct some light digging along the ground where you assume the clean out should be in order to locate it.

Benefits of a Sewer Clean Out

While having a sewage clean out is mandated by law in certain jurisdictions, if you have an older property or live in a state where they are optional, you may find yourself without one. There are, however, various advantages to having a clean out installed on your home, including the following:

Lower Maintenance Costs

If you live in an older house or in a state where sewer clean outs are voluntary, you may not have a sewer clean out, even if it is required by law in certain areas. It is beneficial to have a clean out installed on your home for a variety of reasons.

Cheaper and Easier Cleaning

When it comes to cleaning your sewage lines, a plumber would normally have to remove your toilet or perhaps climb onto the roof to do so. They will have easier access to the sewage lateral if they have a sewer clean out performed. Because of the time and effort savings, you will have a lower overall bill.

Protects Your Landscaping

If you have a big clog, one advantage that only becomes evident in an emergency situation is the fact that a sewer clean out can assist eliminate the need to dig up your yard in the case of a clog.

The sewer lateral, in contrast to many of the pipes within your home, is totally underground and cannot be inspected for wear or damage without digging the area where it is located. The sewer clean out serves as an entry point for your lateral, allowing it to be more readily examined and maintained.

BackflowPrevention

It can also be used as an external drain if a large amount of blockage is encountered. Taking the clean out cap off will allow you to drain the extra water, which will save your property from flooding. When there is an issue with the municipal sewer that is forcing water back up into your lateral, this may also be beneficial.

How to Install a Sewer Clean Out

It is necessary to complete many steps in order to install a clean out. Depending on the circumstances, your local municipality may provide programs to assist with the cost of installation, particularly in situations where a sewer clean out was not previously required by code. Before you begin, make sure you check for any available programs or grants, as well as any necessary permissions or licenses. It is also recommended to get expert assistance if you do not have prior experience splicing or installing sections of pipe in order to prevent making costly blunders.

Choosing a Clean Out Type

The first and most important step before starting any work is to choose the sort of sewer clean out you will be using. There are three alternatives accessible at the present time: Double Clean Out– The double clean out is the most common type of clean out used in contemporary installations. It contains two shafts that link to the lateral pipe in a ‘U’ configuration, making it the most common type of clean out used in modern installations. The cap that is closest to your home allows for simple access to the city end of the lateral, but the cap that is closest to the street allows you to preserve the house end of the lateral (see illustration).

Despite its T design, the test tee clean out provides access to both ends of the lateral, but it can be difficult to use for clearing obstructions owing to a 90 degree angle at the intersection.

Excavation and Installation

Choose the sort of sewage clean out you want to utilize as the first important step before commencing any work. Currently, there are three alternatives to choose between: Double Clean Out– The double clean out is the most common type of clean out used in current installations. It consists of two shafts that link to the lateral pipe in a ‘U’ configuration, making it the most common type of clean out utilized today. You can easily reach the city end of the lateral if it is located closer to your home.

Single Clean Out– This sort of clean out makes it simple to gain access to the municipal end of your lateral, albeit the 45-degree angle prevents access to the whole pipe length.

Test Tee–

Professional Cleaning Cost with a Sewer Clean Out

Even while cleaning your own lateral line may appear to be a cost-effective choice, there is always the possibility of causing damage to the pipes. A professional plumber can complete the task more efficiently and at a lower cost if they have access to the sewage system through a sewer clean out. As a result, they use less tools and less effort than if they were required to dig up your yard or snake the lateral from an interior location of your property. With a basic estimate range of $99 to $900 and an overall average of $288, HomeAdvisorgives provides a reliable service.

When it comes to costs, CostHelper gives more specific estimates, with an estimated cost of snaking your lateral ranging from $148 to $900, with an average cost of $410.

Additional costs will include a video examination of the line, which will cost between $100 and $800.

Some plumbing businesses may quote you a fixed charge but then urge you to tack on extra services in order to raise the total cost of the job. Make sure to look around extensively for the best combination of quality and price before making your decision.

COMMON PROBLEMS — JT’s SEPTIC

You should examine the sewer cleanout on the exterior of the home if you are hearing gurgling and all of the house fixtures are clogged. This is often a black 3-4 in color “inch ABS pipe with a threaded cap is available. Remove the cap (WARNING: BE CAREFUL! (WARNING: IT MAY CONTAIN SOME PRESSURE!) : Assuming the sewage line is completely dry, you will have a clog inside the home plumbing, directly in front of the cleanout valve. Make a phone call to a plumber and have them rooter the line. Sewer line cameras are available from several rooter/plumbing businesses.

You have two options at this point: call your preferred septic provider or pull up the tank lids yourself and check the water level and solids content in the tank yourself.

Most tanks erected after January 2001 include a filter that has to be cleaned at least once a year (we clean filters—please call us).
We’ll even notify you once a year when it’s time to clean your filters!).
It’s likely that you have a blockage in your sewage system.

GURGLES

Whenever you flush the toilet, the water gurgles, the toilet takes an unusually long time to flush, or the water in the shower turns brownish after you have done the laundry, you are receiving a subtle indication that trouble is brewing. In order to determine when the tank was last pumped, look through your records and then contact your preferred septic provider for assistance.

ODORS

If you are experiencing unpleasant odors within your home, such as rotten eggs, it is likely that a trap or vent inside your home is not venting correctly. Call your plumber right away since these gases are harmful to both people and animals!

ODORS OUTSIDE IN THE YARD

At times, the smells emanating from the roof vents will seep into the yard due to meteorological conditions. Make use of a plumber to elevate the roof vents and/or to place a charcoal filter in the vents, as needed. It’s important to remember that your septic tank is vented via the roof.

SURFACING IN THE YARD

If you notice effluent appearing in your yard, contact your septic service provider immediately. If you see this, it indicates that your leach line has failed and you should get help right away.

HEAVY SOLIDS- OVERDUE FOR PUMPING

Immediately notify your septic provider if effluent is visible on the surface of your lawn. n If you see this, it indicates that your leach line has failed and you should have it fixed right away.

grease build up in sewer pipes

Fats and grease should never be flushed down the toilet or sink. They have the potential to harden the lines and cause failure; they have the potential to generate an excessive buildup of the floating scum layer in the septic tank; and they have the potential to go into the disposal regions and adjacent soils and completely block the system off.

A shattered lid can pose a serious threat to both animals and children. It is conceivable that they will fall through the cracked or broken lids and will not be noticed until it is too late to save themselves. Please get in touch with us if you need to replace your lids.

crushed or settled pipe

This is the second most prevalent problem we notice in septic systems that are less than 10 years old. In addition to blocking flow, loose fill soil surrounding the tank is causing a backup into the house since it is pulling the pipe with it as it settles. We have even observed instances when contractors installing new systems do not correctly pack the fill earth below the pipe, resulting in pipe settlement on systems that have not been utilized or have only been used for a short length of time (see below for an example).

SEWER OUTLET PROGRESSION

When it comes to modern septic systems, this is the most typical issue we encounter. Take note of the fact that the unsupported outlet pipe is being driven down by settling dirt. Watch as the water level in the tank rises, forcing the flow of water in the inflow sewage line to slow. This will eventually result in a clog in the inflow sewer line at some point. The solids flowing down from the house will not be able to enter the tank correctly because of the high water level.

examples of settled sewer pipes:

INSTALLATION OF A TANK AND/OR REPAIR OF SEWER PIPESTHE “POLY” PIPEIMAGES BELOW PROVIDE AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT PIPENOTTO USES WHEN INSTALLING A TANK AND/OR REPAIR OF SEWER PIPES However, despite the fact that this grade of sewer pipe is less expensive at the time of purchase, it might end up costing you a lot of money in the long run!

settled inlet sewer pipe on unused system:

Even if the septic system has not been utilized in some time, it is conceivable that problems will be discovered during the inspection process. Pipes might settle on unoccupied ground and in yards as a result of faulty installation and/or automobiles and/or ATVs running over the pipes without realizing they are there. It may be beneficial to all parties to have a skilled inspector take a look at the system and diagnose any concerns, even though the County does not require an examination on an underused system before transferring ownership.

Roots growing in and around the septic tank:

In addition to disrupting the system by clogging or destroying drainage and distribution lines, tree roots can also enter the tank, causing it to leak. Foul odors, poor drainage, and patches of vegetation in the leach field are just a few of the signs that you may have a root problem.

ERODED BAFFLES

Solids are kept in the septic tank and away from the disposal area with the use of concrete baffles. Using baffles to reduce agitation of wastewater entering the septic tank and prevent particles from escaping the tank and entering the drainfield, baffles can assist avoid drainfield damage and extend the life of the drainfield. If the baffles are broken, missing, or have never been placed, the drainfield’s life expectancy will be reduced significantly. Baffle repair normally entails the placement of a plastic tee at the end of the sewer pipes to prevent them from clogging.

orangeburg sewer pipes

Orangeburg pipe was made in Orangeburg, New York, from 1860 to 1970, and was utilized to plumb numerous septic and wastewater systems throughout Yavapai County during that time period. Orangeburg pipe is produced from rolled tar paper (wood pulp that has been sealed with hot pitch) and was considered a low-cost alternative to metal, particularly after World War II, because of its flexibility and durability. In fact, the pipe itself is so soft that professionals might cut it with a knife during the installation process!

Orangeburg, on the other hand, is known for degrading over time (it has a 50-year lifespan at the most) and deforming when subjected to pressure.

If the septic system is approved, Orangeburg will normally be stated on the permits as the material for the inlet and/or outflow pipe material, respectively.

If you’d like to learn more about Orangeburg, make an appointment today or check out this article on azcentral.com to learn more about how Orangeburg has impacted Valley region homes.

Septic Tank Clean-Out 101

Septic tanks of various shapes and sizes are pumped out by John Kline Septic Services. From residential to commercial to municipal work, there is something for everyone. Maintaining your septic tank is essential, whether you’re in need of a clean-out or you simply want to understand more about the procedure. To learn more, continue reading or contact us now to arrange service. We provide same-day service for emergencies, and our technicians are available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Always In order to ensure that your septic tank gets cleaned out through the largest available opening, Your septic tank or system may have more than one entry point, depending on the type of tank or system you have installed.

This is normally covered with a cement lid or manhole cover that is 18-24 inches in diameter and is often raised to grade with an extension.
It also makes it difficult to completely clean out the tank, therefore it’s critical to ensure that your tank is well cleaned from the primary entry.
In spite of the fact that we recommend that you have your tank pumped out every two to three years, depending on the size of your tank and the number of people living in your home, you may be able to extend the period between clean-outs without suffering any difficulties.

When it comes to septic tank cleaning, we recommend that you never go more than FIVE years between cleanings to ensure everything is operating correctly and that your tank is filtering out waste in the appropriate manner.
Ensure that your septic tank is easily accessible before scheduling your septic clean-out.
Make a notation on your manhole cover or access port if it is hidden by your landscaping so that your technician can easily locate the cleanout when he or she arrives on site.

Simply inquire or contact us in advance to inquire about the possibility of installing a riser at the time of your septic pumping.

Are you prepared to get your septic tank cleaned? We provide business and residential septic pumping services in Lancaster, Pennsylvania and the adjacent areas, including York, Lebanon, Berks, Chester, and Dauphin counties, as well as the surrounding areas. Make a call right now at 717-898-2333.

How to Install a Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.

However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.

Steps

1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.

The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:

Available space

Terrain
Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
Location of the well and/or nearby wells

And other factors.

The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:

The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)

The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater

2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement

Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:

First, gather all of your excavation-related equipment and tools into one place. To complete this task, you will require the following materials:

2 Determine the location of the entrance to the building in relation to the location of the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.

The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.

Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside

Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.

3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the desired depth

Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.

4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement

A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.

Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.

Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines after the inspector has given his final approval and the system has been turned on. Advertisement

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Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface

Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

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The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time

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Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

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Adding more input lines to your current septic tank is a viable option if your tank is working properly and is much below its maximum capacity for consumption. If you want to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. The difficulty of this work will be greatly influenced by the location of the new addition as well as the technique of installation employed for your existing systems.

Step 1

Determine the location of the drain pipe that runs from the present residence to the septic tank. This may be accomplished by locating the main drain line beneath your property and recording the locations where it passes beneath or through the foundation. Move along this line outside the house until you are roughly eight feet away from the house, then turn around. Continue digging until you reach the drain line. There should be no more than 24 inches in depth below the surface of the ground for the line, which should be a 4-inch pipe.

Step 2

You should dig until you have exposed roughly three feet of the drainpipe once you have found it and marked it with chalk. In addition, you will need to dig down a little bit to provide access all the way around the pipeline. To get to the start point of the new field line, dig a ditch from this point onward.

This ditch should be constructed in a straight line and at a small gradient from the current drain to the starting point of the new drain system. Remove any big boulders or roots that may have accumulated in this ditch.

Step 3

PVC pipe sections of four inches in diameter should be laid from the new drain point to the old drain line. Before applying PVC cement, make sure that all pipe ends and fittings have been cleaned using PVC pipe cleaner. Connect the drain line to the new drain point, ensuring sure that all of the fittings are securely fastened to the pipe. Once you have verified that there are no appliances running in the house, use the hacksaw to cut through the current drain line. Using a sharp knife, make two incisions roughly six inches apart.

Step 4

Insert the tee fitting into the hole that you just made in the wall with your fingers. Because the drainpipe and fitting will be a very tight fit, you will need to flex the drainpipe and wedge the fitting into position. Before installing the fitting, thoroughly clean the fitting and pipe ends. You will need to move rapidly once the cement has been applied in order to get the fitting in place since the cement will harden very quickly. Make the necessary adjustments to the fitting so that the new intake is directly in line with the new pipe.

Check that all of the fittings are in place before back-filling all of the ditches.

Septic Tank Cleaning Fort Collins: Never Put These Items Down the Drain If You Have a Septic Tank

A septic tank is something that most people are familiar with, and they are generally aware that they should get it cleaned every three to five years at the absolute least. But did you know that even if you get your tank serviced on a regular basis, there are things you might be doing that could be causing significant damage to your system and shortening the life of your tank? At Lion Home Service, we understand a thing or two about septic systems, and we also understand that it is sometimes what you don’t flush down the drain that may help to extend the life of your system and prevent a potentially hazardous sewage backup in your home or business.

Follow the instructions below, and if you have any questions or need help, please contact Lion Home Service in Fort Collins.

How Does a Septic Tank Work?

In your house, if you perform an action that requires the flushing of a toilet or the washing of the garage floor, the water that is generated must be disposed of in some manner. Depending on whether you have a septic system or not, the water will either travel into pipes that will transport it away from your house and over to a central water treatment facility, or it will go directly to your septic tank.

This container retains your wastewater and allows any particles to sink to the bottom of the container. When the water level in the septic system reaches a specific level, it is allowed to exit and run into your drain field, where it evaporates.

Caring For Your Septic Tank

After all, everything you flush down the toilet goes into a holding tank that is ultimately emptied, so you might ask why it matters so much what you flush down the toilet. There are two important considerations to bear in mind. First and foremost, whatever you flush down the toilet must be biodegradable, which means it must easily decompose in your tank. Items such as flushable wipes, cotton swabs, and even paper towels can not entirely decompose in a septic system, which might result in a major backup.

For the second time, you should never flush or wash anything down the drain that might potentially harm the beneficial bacteria in your septic system or contaminate groundwater.

Also, keep in mind that once the wastewater in your septic tank reaches a particular level, it will begin to run into your drainage system.

List of Items To Never Put Down the Drain

With the two most essential kinds of goods that might affect your septic system now defined, let us offer two lists of common home products that should never be flushed down the toilet or down the sink. Read them carefully and then distribute them to the rest of your family so that everyone is aware of what is and is not acceptable to flush down the toilet.

Hazardous Materials

Paint, gasoline, motor oil, weedkiller, solvents such as paint thinner, bleach, insecticide, herbicide, drain cleaner, and medications (particularly antibiotics) are all prohibited.

Non-Biodegradable Items

Toilet paper
Disinfectant wipes, paper towels, tissues, dental floss, cigarettes butts, coffee grinds, cat litter, condoms, feminine hygiene items, cotton swabs, and so on.

Despite the fact that this is not an exhaustive list, it should provide you with a general notion of the kind of items you should avoid flushing down the toilet. Cleansing products and even toilet paper that has been classified as safe for septic systems should be substituted instead. However, while knowing how to correctly care for your septic system may appear to be a burden, it will save you and the environment from any pollution concerns, and it will no doubt keep your septic system functioning smoothly for many years to come.

Signs Your Septic Tank Is Full

In the event that it has been several years since you last had your septic tank cleaned, or if you aren’t sure whether or not it has ever been done, it is critical that you arrange an appointment as soon as possible. There are times when tanks will fill up; nevertheless, you’ll want to get it emptied out before it becomes an issue. But what if you already have a nagging feeling that something is wrong? The following are some clear symptoms that your septic tank may be overflowing with waste:

Pooling Water

In the event that you discover significant pools of water near your septic system’s drain field, it might be a sign that your tank is overflowing and that the wastewater isn’t being allowed to naturally evaporate.

Odors Coming From Drains

In the event that you discover enormous pools of water near your septic system’s drain field, it might be a sign that your tank is overflowing and the wastewater isn’t being allowed to naturally evaporate.

Slow Drains

If the water isn’t draining as rapidly as it used to, it might be an indication that your septic tank is overflowing and needs to be cleaned.

Sewage Backup

When a tank is completely filled, sewage will begin to overflow or back up into the pipes. If the situation is severe enough, sewage can even back up into your home’s drains, which is not only distasteful, but it also poses a substantial health danger to you and your family members.

Particularly Green Grass Around Your Drainfield

Sometimes you may detect pools of water around your drain field, but other times you may only notice that the grass around it is exceptionally lush and green. This is frequently another indication that your septic system is about to overflow.

Contact Lion Home Service For Septic Tank Cleaning

Do not allow your septic system to reach the point where it is overflowing with waste. Septic tank cleaning should be performed on a regular basis by Lion Home Service in Fort Collins. We are a family-owned and run business that serves the whole Northern Colorado region, including Loveland, Greeley, Longmont, Windsor, and Fort Collins, among other cities. Call today to receive your no-obligation quote. We look forward to being of service to you!

Septic System Cleaning, Tank Pumping, Installation & Repair Services

Solid waste collects in your septic tank over the course of a year or two. This has to be pumped out and disposed of in an appropriate manner. The removal of waste and cleaning of your septic tank is an important step in appropriate system maintenance since it helps to extend the life of your septic field. Septic tanks should be emptied out every 2–5 years, depending on how often they are used. In order to guarantee that your system continues to perform properly for years to come, we at Shankster Bros.

Shankster Bros.

We provide drainage, sewer line cleaning, and septic system repair and replacement services, as well as diagnostic and troubleshooting services.

DIAGNOSTICTROUBLESHOOTING SERVICE

Septic system issues are no problem for our knowledgeable staff. The diagnostic and troubleshooting services that we provide will help you identify the root cause of blockages, sludge building, scum buildup, and waste buildup in your system. Once we’ve identified the problem, we’ll identify the most effective way to resolve it. We examine a map of your system, which reveals the location of the absorption field, as well as the locations of the tank cleanouts, in order to facilitate repairs and minimize lawn damage.

While drain cleaners can be used in a septic system, they should be used with caution since drain cleaners have the potential to destroy the bacteria in the tank.

Installing and inspecting SEPTIC SYSTEMS IN RESIDENTIAL AND COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS Shankster Bros. provides expert septic system design, installation, and septic tank maintenance services for residential and commercial properties. Contact us now.

SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN, INSTALLATION,MAINTENANCE

Because septic systems are located underground and out of sight, they are often overlooked until something goes wrong with the system. Understanding your system, whether you are installing a brand-new system or inheriting an older one, may save you time and money in the long run. In the event that you require a new system replacement, we can design and install a septic tank for you. Once the system is in place, we will do routine septic tank maintenance to avoid severe problems down the road.

SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTIONS REQUEST

If you already have a system, please allow us to check it and report back on our results. The examination of commercial septic systems is performed to determine whether the on-site wastewater disposal and treatment system is in appropriate operating order.