- Search throughout your yard with a metal detector. Many septic tanks are built out of concrete. However, the tanks are often reinforced with steel bars within the concrete. These bars will trigger a metal detector, giving you a good idea of where your septic tanks are located.
Can a metal detector find a septic tank?
If it’s Concrete or Steel, Use a Metal Detector. Based on your conclusions in Step 3, if your septic tank is likely made from concrete or steel, a metal detector can make the task of locating it much easier. But not just any metal detector will do.
How do I find a buried septic tank lid?
You can locate the lid of your septic tank by poking the ground every few feet with a metal probe. Lids can be buried up to a foot deep on average, so be sure to investigate any bumps that may indicate something is buried underneath.
Are septic tank locations public record?
Contact your local health department for public records. These permits should come with a diagram of the location where the septic system is buried. Depending on the age of your septic system, you may be able to find information regarding the location of your septic system by making a public records request.
How do you tell if your septic tank is full?
How to tell your septic tank is full and needs emptying
- Pooling water.
- Slow drains.
- Odours.
- An overly healthy lawn.
- Sewer backup.
- Gurgling Pipes.
- Trouble Flushing.
Can I drive over my leach field?
Can You Drive on a Septic Drain Field? No, driving over your septic drain field is similarly never ever recommended. As much as you are able to help it, prevent cars or heavy equipment (such as oil delivery trucks, swimming pool water trucks, cement mixers, and also the like) to drive straight over the field.
Are septic tanks made of metal?
The majority of septic tanks are constructed out of concrete, fiberglass, polyethylene or coated steel. Typically, septic tanks with a capacity smaller than 6,000 gallons are pre-manufactured. Larger septic tanks are constructed in place or assembled on-site from pre-manufactured sections.
Can you use a metal detector to find sewer lines?
Using a Plumbing Pipe Detector to Locate Underground Pipes. As a property owner there will be times when, for a variety of reasons, you will need to locate underground metal objects. The best and easiest way to find below-ground objects such as these is with a metal detector.
Does every house have a septic tank?
A septic tank is a crucial part of a home’s septic system. In the U.S., about 20% of homes use a septic system to manage their wastewater. Septic systems are most commonly found in the Eastern U.S., with homes in rural areas of New England being the most likely to have a septic system present.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
How far is septic tank from house?
Requirements vary from one area to another, but the normal minimum distance from the house is 10 feet. If you’ll be using a private well for drinking water, however, note that many state departments of health require a minimum of 50 feet between a new septic tank and a well, according to APEC Water.
How far down is septic tank lid?
Often, septic tank lids are at ground level. In most cases, they have buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.
Do septic tanks have two lids?
Locate The Lid A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.
How deep is a septic tank in the ground?
Septic tanks are typically rectangular in shape and measure approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter.
How to locate septic tank(s)?
- Jcrawon 29th of March, 2018 Is it possible that your municipality has documents of the permission that was obtained to install the system? Obviously, this is dependent on the age of the structures, but the construction of a septic system has to adhere to certain regulations. Try contacting about to known area services
- It’s possible that someone has taken care of it in the past. Look for a diviner. It’s something I do myself
- You just have to locate the proper person for the job. It is doable for the average individual. Make a L shape out of two coat hangers by bending them together. It is possible to walk beside them while holding them loosely in your hands so that they will cross while crossing over water, particularly flowing water. It is necessary to pass over the region multiple times before you can locate it. It isn’t mystical or supernatural in nature
- I believe it is just a magnetic pull of the water or something else that is causing them to cross. As in a ouiji game, you can’t have any control over when they cross
- You can only hold them loosely enough to let them to accomplish it on their own. They’ll also work if you have one of those wire holders that hang up plastic advertising signs
- I know ours is just off the bathroom, next to the toilet closet. You may start by looking for the tallest grasses and the most wetness, and then work your way backwards from there. You should be able to find the septic tank from that direction
- The original layout of the site plan will be available at your local Building and Permits Department
- By inserting a thin metal probe into the earth near the sewage line, you may trace the pipe’s path. Every two feet, take a probe and see what you find. Most septic tanks are located between 10 and 25 feet away from your property, and they cannot be closer than 5 feet to your residence. Your tank will be located after the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene.
Has Anyone Located Their Septic With A Metal Detector?
Well. What did you take away from your experience with your septic system? What is the capacity of the tank? What are the building materials (concrete, steel, redwood)? Was it in good functioning order when it first appeared? Is it possible that the water level was too low due to a lack of use? Is it possible for them to detect a leach field? It turned out that one of the properties we acquired did not have a leach field at all; instead, the tank merely poured into a buried rock adjacent to the tank.
County Health Departments appear to be a terrifying gun-hoe, threatening to compel you to construct a new ‘designed’ system that would cost tens of thousands of dollars if the least thing goes wrong with your current system.
‘Pump and examine’ examinations are frequently ineffective since they only detect serious flaws that are visible from the interior of a tank.
The problem is that if you move in with family and begin to live together as a family, the system may soon get clogged, or you may discover that the leach area has multiple regions of surface ponding.
Wishing you the best of luck!
Locating septic tank
Hj said that most new tanks will be around 10′ length by 4′-5′ broad. Your county’s health or building agency, or whomever is in charge of issuing septic tank permits in your region, may have a map of your tank from the time the house was first constructed. When I was trying to find mine, I discovered that the county map was completely inaccurate, showing the tank on the other side of the yard from where it was actually located. We discovered it with the use of a metal detector, and it was only 138 feet away from the home.
You may also try snake the main line from a cleanout, which would appear to be an option as well.
If there is any change in direction in the line as you push the snake through, you should be able to feel it.
Rob
How to find septic lines?
A typical contemporary tank will be around 10 feet length by 4 to 5 feet broad. Perhaps the county health or building agency, or whomever is in charge of septic tank licenses in your region, has a map of your tank from when the house was first constructed. In the process of trying to find mine, I discovered that the county map was completely inaccurate, depicting the tank on the opposite side of the yard from where it actually was located. Using a metal detector, we spotted it 138 feet away from the home, which was perfect.
You might also try snake the main line from a cleanout, which appears to be another option.
As you push the snake through the line, you should be able to feel any shifts in direction in the line. You won’t know how long it is until you get there, but it will give you a good indication of how far it is. Rob
How to Find a Septic Tank With a Metal Detector
For sewage treatment in the United States, around 48% of households in rural and outlying regions depend on septic tanks or septic systems. Many of these systems have been operating without regular maintenance for many years. It is necessary to locate your septic tank in the event that sewage is backing up into your home or if your main drain line has become obstructed. Throughout this post, we’ll go over the basics of how septic systems function before showing you how to identify your septic tank in six simple stages.
How do septic systems work?
A septic system is made up of two parts: the septic tank and the drain field (or leach field).
Septic Tank
Waste from toilets, sinks, and showers is sent down a main sewage line and into a holding tank known as the septic tank. A septic tank is a large, subterranean container that acts as the initial stage of a home’s sewage treatment system by collecting and treating sewage. Watertight containers such as concrete, steel, plastic, and fiberglass are used to construct the tank. Until the particles and liquids separate into three different layers, sewage is allowed to remain in the septic tank. This picture shows how sewage from the home drains into a two-compartment underground septic tank.
The liquid wastes are subsequently discharged into the drain field.
The bacteria produce a sludge that is “digested” and stays in the tank until it is drained.
This stratum is referred to as effluent in most circles.
Drain Field
Drain fields are composed of layers of gravel and dirt that allow liquid sewage to flow down. It eventually becomes part of the groundwater supply. Aerobic bacteria (bacteria that require oxygen to survive) and other microbes decompose the organic debris that remains.
What happens if a septic tank gets too full?
In the event that your septic tank becomes overflowing, sewage may back up into your home. It is more difficult to breakdown sludge than it is to collect it. If the sludge isn’t cleaned, the solids will build up until they overflow into the drain field, causing the drain to back up. This has the potential to clog pipes and produce a backup. The sludge must be cleared on a regular basis in order to avoid this.
Many households only get their tanks emptied after the system malfunctions. Waiting until that stage can result in repair expenses in the tens of thousands of dollars. Every three to five years, we suggest that you have your septic tank pumped.
6 Steps to Locate a Septic Tank
Water from your toilets, sinks, and showers is collected in a main drain pipe and disposed of properly. This line departs your home and enters your septic tank through the basement or crawl area where it was installed. Find the line in question. Afterwards, walk outside and look for the identical location on the opposite side of the wall. Make a note of this spot since you’ll need it in a moment.
2. Check Permits and Public Records
The majority of county health agencies keep public records of septic system installation permits on their websites. These permits must be accompanied by a schematic or design depicting the proposed location of the septic tank and drainage field systems. They also give a description of the tank’s dimensions and construction material. Having this information can be quite beneficial when trying to locate a submerged tank lid. In some cases, depending on the age of your septic system and the digitization efforts of your county’s health department, you may be able to do a public records search online.
If you live in Colorado, we’ve provided links below that will allow you to check septic records in a few different areas.
- Colorado’s counties of Adams, Arapahoe, and Douglas Colorado Septic Records Search
- Colorado Permits Search
- El Paso County Records Search
- Jefferson County Septic Records Search
- Jefferson County Records Search
- Mesa County Septic Systems Search
- Pueblo County Records Search. Colorado Septic Records Search
- Pueblo County Records Search
3. Determine Septic Tank Material
If you’ve located your septic permit, you’ll find information about the size, shape, and material of your septic tank there as well. But don’t be concerned if your septic data aren’t readily available. We can perform some basic detective work to determine what material your septic system is built of. Let’s start with a look at the materials.
Types of Septic Tank Materials
Construction of septic tanks is mostly done using four types of materials: concrete, steel, fiberglass, and polyethylene plastic. Until the 1880s, the most extensively used septic tank material was concrete, which was then replaced by steel. These tanks have a lifespan of around 40 years and are built to last. They are susceptible to cracking, however, in locations where temperature variations are strong and frequent. Concrete tanks are frequently required by municipalities that have strict requirements on septic system construction.
- Steel septic tanks begin to corrode within 20 to 25 years of installation in most regions.
- If a human or animal walks across the weakened tank, it may collapse under the weight of the person or animal.
- They will not break or corrode, however, in contrast to concrete or steel tanks.
- PlasticSeptic tanks made of polyethylene have been in use since the 1980s.
They are not susceptible to rusting and are less prone to break when compared to concrete. They are, however, not quite as long-lasting. Because of the weight of the earth above them, or because a vehicle passes over the area where they are buried, plastic tanks are susceptible to collapse.
How Old is Your House?
Next, let’s determine the approximate age of your home. In some cases, all you need to do is take a glance at the house’s façade to get an idea of how old it really is. However, you may examine the tax assessor’s records in your county to get a more precise assessment. Similarly to searching for septic records, your mileage may vary depending on which county’s digitized documents you are searching for. Let’s go over an example search utilizing Boulder County’s Property Search tool so that you can have a better sense of what you should be looking for.
- Look up your home address on the internet. When searching for a home, some programs provide separate areas for your address and street name, while others (such as Boulder County) merge the two into a single search box. Look for information on Deeds and/or Sales Records in the public domain. You’ll find a list of transactions here, with dates showing when the property was purchased and sold. Find the transaction that occurred on the earliest possible date. This is most likely the year in which your home was constructed.
This information allows you to make an informed guess regarding the sort of material that your septic tank is built of.
4A. If it’s Concrete or Steel, Use a Metal Detector
After coming to the conclusion that the tank is most likely built of concrete or steel in Step 3, a metal detector may be used to make the work of locating it much simpler. But not just any metal detector will do. It must be the right one. Standard metal detectors have a depth range of 6 – 8″ (15 – 20 cm) below the surface of the ground. As previously stated, the majority of septic tanks are placed 1′ to 3′ (0.3 m to 1 m) underground, putting them outside of the acceptable range. An advanced sort of metal detector known as a Magnetic Locator, which can detect objects as deep as 16′ (4.8 m), is available for purchase.
How to Use a Metal Detector to Search for a Septic Tank
If you have a septic permit record, you may refer to it to figure out how far you need to go to install a septic tank. Start at the point where the drain line meets the home and work your way out to where the septic tank is shown on the diagram. Keep in mind that this graphic depicts the proposed installation area and may not accurately depict the actual ground conditions on the site. We’ll have a look at the illustration below. One inch (2.5 centimeters) is equivalent to fifty feet (50 meters).
By using a ruler to measure the design, we’ve determined that the septic tank should be roughly 13′ (3.96 m) away from the home.
- To begin, start at the location you highlighted in Step 1 where the sewage drain line leaves the home. From here, you may switch on the locator and adjust the gain to a high setting. Walking over the search area, sweep the locator from left to right, as if looking for anything. As you go, make a note of the regions with the strongest signal strength. It is most likely that the tank-iron lid’s handles will be located in one of these positions
- As soon as you’ve exhausted the search region in one direction, sweep over it perpendicularly and make note of the spots with the strongest signal strength. Continue on to Step 5
4B. If it’s Plastic or Fiberglass, Probe Gently
Septic tanks made of plastic or fiberglass are typically buried one to two feet (0.3 to 0.91 m) below ground level. They feature circular covers made of green or black plastic that are roughly two feet (0.91 m) wide and have a diameter of around two feet (0.91 m). Due to the fact that these tanks are totally made of plastic, a metal detector will not be of use in locating them. In this situation, a soil probe is really useful. An inexpensive soil sampling instrument, soil probes are comprised of a 4′ (1.2 m) metal rod with a pointed tip on one end and are used for soil sample.
Gently poke the earth with a soil probe every 2 to 3 feet, using a light touch (0.61 to 0.91 m).
Make a note of any areas where you encounter resistance and continue exploring around in your search area. The use of a soft touch is essential here, since the metal tip of the probe can cause damage to plastic septic tanks (and sewage lines) if too much force is used.
5. Time to Dig
Following the placement of an amagnetic locator (or the probing of the ground) to record the places with the highest signal strength, you are ready to begin digging. Septic tank lids can be located anywhere from 4″ (10 cm) to 4′ (1.2 m) below the surface of the ground.
6. Mark the Location for Future Maintenance
Having discovered your septic tank, you’ll want to ensure that it can be readily detected and accessed in the event that it has to be repaired or replaced. You may accomplish this by installing a septic tank riser. Sewage Tank Risers are devices that provide for easy access to the septic tank from the ground. They are shafts made of plastic or concrete that link the top of the tank to the surface of the ground below the tank. The tank lid will no longer require you to dig to access it whenever maintenance is required.
Below ground Locating
I’ve been utilizing two pieces of brass rod to find pipelines and cables that are buried underneath. I initially tried it with a pair of coat hangers about ten years ago while I was hunting for the septic tank for my old farm house. It worked well. On my first attempt, I was successful in locating the tank and clay pipes. Then I started strolling back and forth across my backyard, where I came discovered some old abandoned wooden pipes, buried cable, and my polypipe waterline from my well, among other things.
- In addition, I discovered jewels and coins.
- I’m baffled as to why a few of twisted rods function.
- There is a clever low-tech commercially available apparatus that operates in a similar manner to my brass rods, but I have my doubts about whether it is any better than mine.
- What has been the ramifications of coercive measures?
How to Find Your Septic Tank
Many folks have contacted me through e-mail (typically from across the nation) to inquire about the location of their septic tank. “I have no idea,” I generally say as a helpful response to the question. I really want to add something like, “It’s just off your driveway, near that bushy thing,” or anything along those lines. But, truly, even for the most experienced searchers, septic tanks are difficult to come by. The following are some strategies you might employ to assist you in locating your tank.
- Precaution should be exercised before you get started.
- So, proceed with caution!
- Please let me know if you have any queries or need assistance.
- Get to know the beast!
- tanks are normally buried 4 inches to 4 feet below the surface of the ground.
- You might be astonished to hear that someone knows exactly where it is hidden in plain sight.
- It is against the law to dig or probe in your own yard without first locating and marking the underground services.
You will receive the following tools to aid you in your search: Measurement tape, tile probe, and a shovel (if you are ambitious) The following tools are required: a metal detector (borrow or rent one since septic tanks often include iron steel rebar in the lids), and a hoagie sandwich (because locating sewage tanks makes you hungry.trust me on this).
- Examine the basement wall to see where all of the pipes join together and exit through the basement ceiling.
- If you don’t have a basement, walk outdoors and check for the roof vents on your house.
- Ordinarily, the sewage line that leads to the septic tank will exit the home right below this ventilation opening.
- On sometimes, the ancient proverb “The grass is always greener on the other side of the septic tank” is true.
Your tank may be located by probing or digging for it, and with luck, you will locate it. Keep in mind that not everything that seems to be a septic tank actually is! It’s possible that you came upon one of the following instead:
- Rubble buried in the ground (not to be confused with Barney Ruble)
- SepticDrywell
- An old foundation
- In case you happen to live in a cemetery (which is spooky), you may use a grave vault to keep your belongings safe.
After a few hours of hopelessly digging about in your yard, it will be time to eat your hoagie and take a little sleep. Following that, it will be necessary to rent or borrow a metal detector. In the event that your next-door neighbor loves Star Wars action figures or has more than three unidentified antennae on his roof, there is a significant probability that you can borrow his metal detector. If you’re lucky, the metal detector will really assist you in finding your septic tank, rather than simply a bunch of old buried automobile parts.
- According to local legend, a pumper known as “Zarzar The Incredible” can locate sewage tanks using a metal measuring tape spanning 30 feet in length.
- Continue to press your commode (“commode” sounds sophisticated) tape deeper and farther down the pipes until he “feels” the bottom of the tank with his tape.
- I recently acquired locate equipment that can be used to locate septic tanks, and I’m excited about it.
- For further information, please contact me at 574-533-1470.
- After that, you may have a movie of the inside of your sewer pipes created!
- Related: Visit our Septic System Maintenance page for more information.
- Services provided by Meade Septic Design Inc.
- Both Clients and Projects are included.
- Send me an email!
Septic Advisor LLC
A septic tank’s location is usually quite straightforward in most circumstances. However, it is typically necessary to do some excavating. Digging in the incorrect spot may result in the destruction of anything else buried in your yard. Please pay attention to the cautions provided below. Please refer to the section on locating your septic system plan for further information. If you are unable to obtain a plan indicating the position of your septic tank, the following principles may be of assistance in locating the septic tank: 1.
- Find out where the sewage from your building exits the building. Look in the crawl area or the basement for answers. Identifying the direction and depth of your building’s sewer are useful indications to the placement of your septic tank. Most of the time, the septic tank is located between 10 and 30 feet away from the home. Examine this area with a probe rod (coat hanger) or metal detector to determine the position of the septic tank
- If this does not yield results, you may need to broaden the scope of your investigation. Nota bene: It is possible that the septic tank is too deep to be easily located.
It is possible that you have observed a part of your yard where the snow melts more quickly than the rest of the yard if you reside in a more northern zone. Because the septic tank is frequently warmer than the surrounding earth, it is possible that this is your septic tank. It’s possible that this is something else. As a result, exercise caution and follow the advice we have offered. more Finding your septic tank and other components should be done by an expert who is familiar with septic systems.
Caution: Only a septic expert (a septic pumper, a septic contractor (installer), or a septic designer/inspector should dig up your yard to uncover your septic tank and open your septic tank.
A septic tank that has been left uncovered or exposed should never be left alone. Children and pets are at a high risk of injury as a result of this. Remember to call 811 before you begin digging to ensure that you do not disturb any hidden utilities.
DWV Hangers
Plastic Oatey Yes No 25 0.1 LB Yes No tensile strength: 7″ is 50 lbs, 11″14″ is 50 lbs, and so forth. The weight of 24″, 36″, and 48″ is 175 lbs. 6/6 Nylon (Natural: 7″-36″) is used in this product (Gray: 48″) Allows for the joining of cables, tubes, and other similar materials. Special locking mechanism gives a positive, non-slip grasp on the item being locked. Made of nylon, it complies with Military Standard MS3367-1 in terms of dimensions and Military Standard M-20693 in terms of composition.
- Guarantee and indemnity agreement 25 0.15 KG (about) Seven inches, eleven inches, fourteen inches equals 50 pounds; twenty-four inches, thirty-four inches, forty-four inches equals 175 pounds.
- Special locking mechanism gives a positive, non-slip grasp on the item being locked.
- Refer to the Oatey Limited website for further information on warranty products.
- The weight of 24″, 36″, and 48″ is 175 lbs.
- Special locking mechanism gives a positive, non-slip grasp on the item being locked.
- Meets Military Specification MS3367-1 for dimensions and Military Specification M-20693 for material requirements.
- The weight of 24″, 36″, and 48″ is 175 lbs.
- Special locking mechanism gives a positive, non-slip grasp on the item being locked.
Made of nylon, it complies with Military Standard MS3367-1 in terms of dimensions and Military Standard M-20693 in terms of composition. For further information on the warranty product, please see the Oatey Limited Warranty paperwork.
25 0.167 pound tensile strength: 7″ is 50 lbs, 11″14″ is 50 lbs, and so forth. The weight of 24″, 36″, and 48″ is 175 lbs. 6/6 Nylon (Natural: 7″-36″) is used in this product (Gray: 48″) Allows for the joining of cables, tubes, and other similar materials. Special locking mechanism gives a positive, non-slip grasp on the item being locked. Made of nylon, it complies with Military Standard MS3367-1 in terms of dimensions and Military Standard M-20693 in terms of composition. For further information on the warranty product, please see the Oatey Limited Warranty paperwork.
Septic Tanks
However, they still provide the excellent structure and safety that you expect from an Ace Roto-Mold septic tank. They are stronger, less difficult to install, and less expensive than traditional concrete septic tanks. Ace Roto-Mold tanks, which are made of high-density polyethylene with ultraviolet inhibitors, have a horizontal flow that is suitable for below-ground installations up to 36 inches in depth. Each tank is identified by a unique serial code and comes with a complete set of documentation dating back to its creation.
- Ace Tanks are the preferred choice in the industry because of its trapezoidal deep-rib design and inner baffle system.
- The gasket, which is made of extruded Nitrile rubber, clips into the lid and guarantees that it is completely waterproof when closed.
- With its innovative tank baffle system, Ace is able to restrict the flow of wastewater while also directing it to the centre of the tank, where it can separate from particles.
- Ace’s baffle design offers a number of advantages, including increased strength, adaptability, and ease of installation.
- These tanks are built and constructed in accordance with the requirements of wastewater treatment systems.
Additional septic tank information may be found in the following PDF files: Product Description, Function, and Service Provided by Septic Tanks Installation Instructions for Septic Tanks Procedures for Septic Tanks with a Low Profile Detailed Instructions for Installing a Spherical Septic Tank Installation Instructions for Septic Tank Dividers Septic tank and pump (Economy Grade) To see our Cistern Tankline, please click here.
Technical drawings may be seen by selecting the part number from the list below.
| Part No. | Capacity | Weight | Dimensions |
| AST-0300-1 | 300 Gallon Pump Tank | 137 | 54 x 56 |
| AST-0300-1R | 300 Gallon (Reclaimed) Pump Tank | 137 | 54 x 56 |
| AST-0500-1 | 500 Gallon Pump Tank | 197 | 63 x 74 |
| AST-0500-1R | 500 Gallon (Reclaimed) Pump Tank | 197 | 63 x 74 |
| AST-0750-1 | 750 Gallon- 1 Compartment | 259 | 60 x 70 x 60 |
| AST-0750-1R | 750 Gallon (Reclaimed) Septic Tank | 259 | 60 x 70 x 60 |
| AST-1000-1 | 1000 Gallon- 1 Compartment | 396 | 60 x 101 x 60 |
| AST-1000-2 | 1000 Gallon- 2 Compartment | 448 | 60 x 101 x 60 |
| AST-1250-1 | 1250 Gallon- 1 Compartment | 443 | 58 x 118 x 72 |
| AST-1250-2 | 1250 Gallon- 2 Compartment | 492 | 58 x 118 x 72 |
| AST-1500-1 | 1500 Gallon- 1 Compartment | 534 | 58 x 137 x 72 |
| AST-1500-2 | 1500 Gallon- 2 Compartment | 580 | 58 x 137 x 72 |
| Part No. | Capacity | Weight | Dimensions |
locating exact position of pipes in a septic leach field
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| locating exact position of pipes in a septic leach field |
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| Author:teg60 (CA)I am looking to purchase a property with a septic system. The whole deal stems on me being able to build a rather large shop/garage complex. We have located the septic tank and the distribution tank, but have yet to dig anything up. It was suggested to uncover the distributon tank and run a electricians fish tape down each pipe to the end, mark the tape, lay it out on the ground and flag the position of every pipe to show the leech field. One of my concerns is that the one or two pipes may go out then have latterals that “T” off and a fish tape won’t go around a 90 degree T.My question is, since I will have the box open anyway, would it be better to have a plumber do a video inspection of the system? Do plumbers typicaly do this type of inspection? My understanding is by using an electronic location system they can map out a pipes depth and location based on where the camera head is at any given time. Also it would show any issues in the pipes such as clogging or root intrusion or if there are any latteral lines.Also is video typically done to inspect septic systems? If not, does it sound like a good way to go? I don’t want to invest my money on this property only to find out I can’t build. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated. |
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| Author:Wheelchair (IL)An empty septic tank still continues to harbor dangerous methene gas. I don’t think you will find a licensed plumber willing to expose themselves to that.Sometimes an overhead picture will reveal the septic field location and design. Neighbors are also a valuable source and old survey prints.A metal plumbing rod (t bar) might be helpful too.Not all septic systems are designed the same.I’ve seen “daisy chain” systems using several links. I sure others will have additional suggestions.Best Wishes |
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| Author:North Carolina Plumber (NC)It depends on the age of the system, but here in NC the local health dept has a detailed drawing of the setic tank- field line layout on file. You might check with the building + inspections dept in your area and see if they do something similiar. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)The leaching lines would be so loaded with “stuff” that the camera lens would be covered within a few feet. Check with your local county health department. They are often the ones with control over septic systems and if so, they may have the drawing of yours with its location. |
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| Author:waukeshaplumbing (WI)most plumbers dont have a camera or do much with septic systemsyou’ll have to call around to find someone willing to do your job.your typical plumber wontid start by calling septic installers.im sure someone will be slow enough to come out and trace your pipes.id expect a few hundred $$rotor rooter has camera’s and this may be a good job for them.im sure a camera job is $500+ easy |
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| Author:teg60 (CA)Thanks for the replies. The property is in Arkansas and was built in 1978. There may have been a diagram at some point but nothing is on file now. |
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| Author:Wheelchair (IL)Remember the grass is generally greener over the septic field.Use a plumber’s T bar to confirm.Best Wishes |
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| Author:mr leak (CA)Witching does seem to work. Some people can witch and others can’tTry it with a couple of metal coat hangers in an area where you know exactly where a pipe is and go from there. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)witching is like astrology and palm reading. If you “believe” it will work for you. i once worked on a project where no one knewwhere the sewer pipe was, but they started out with a “witcher” and a backhoe. It was not too long before the parking lot looked like downtown Beirut. I used my snake and found the sewer 25′ from where they were looking. The witcher’s comment was, “Well, maybe it wasn’t the sewer pipe, but there WAS something there”. (They just never found what it was.) |
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| Author:LemonPlumber (FL)Contact the local health dept and find out if they inspect and or record drain field installs.And see if you can find out what a pumped drain field is and how it is accepted by the inspecting or governing authorities.Here you can make a mountain, where you can not use the mole hill. |
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| Author:prisockb (CA)Did you ever find the lines and get your shop built? If so how did you find them. I have the exact same issue: Looking to build a shop, linesare over 5 feet down and no records at the housing or building department but they wont give me a permit unless I find the lines. They also said I have to tell them where I will move the lines in the future if they fail. |
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How to Retrieve an Item That Was Flushed Down a Toilet
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation The act of flushing something down the toilet is an irritating, worrying, and all-too-common occurrence. Fortunately, most toilet drains are designed to only allow water to move through, which means that things will almost always become entangled in the drain or at the bottom of the toilet when used. The object that was flushed can be recovered by using your hands, a wire clothing hanger, or a drain snake to pull it from the toilet bowl or down the toilet drain.
Even if you are unable to remove the thing from the toilet, you may be able to suck the item up with a wet vacuum, or you may be able to locate the item inside the toilet by removing the toilet from the ground and turning it on its side.
- 1 If the object is still visible, reach out with your hands and take it. However, if the object can still be seen after it has been flushed, it is possible to retrieve it by inserting your hand into the toilet, grasping the item, and drawing it out.
- Put on a pair of elbow-length rubber gloves before inserting your hand in the toilet to ensure that the process is as hygienic as possible. You could find it simpler to reach the object if you use a disposable cup or container to scoop away some of the water first
- But, if there is a lot of water in the toilet bowl, it might be more difficult. After recovering the object from the toilet, make certain that you properly wash your hands and the item itself.
2 Attach the item to a bent hanger by bending it in half. To begin, take a metal hanger and untwist the end that has been wrapped around the hanger hook’s neck. Straighten the hanger out as far as you can before bending one end into a little hook form at the other end. Afterwards, cautiously insert the hook end into the toilet drain and attempt to catch hold of whatever it is with the hook.
- 2 Attach the object with a bent hanger if possible. In order to begin, take a metal hanger and untwist the end that is wrapped around the hanger hook’s neck. Remove as much of the bend from the hanger as you can before bending one end into a little hook form. Afterwards, cautiously insert the hook end down the toilet drain and attempt to grasp the object with the hook.
Advertisement number three If the item is a long way down the toilet drain, a drain snake should be used. To begin, insert the coiled or hooked end of the drain snake into the toilet drain until you can feel the object or know that you have reached the location where it is resting or trapped. Then, once you’ve discovered the object, try to get hold of it by pushing the coil or hook just a little past the item and grabbing it as you bring the snake back up the drain.
- You should push the drain snake as far as it will go if you are unsure of the location of an item or if you did not feel it when you pushed the drain snake down. Then, as you carefully bring the drain snake back out, attempt to feel around for the thing you’re looking for. Drain snakes are accessible both online and at most home improvement stores
- However, they are more expensive. When selecting a drain snake, look for one that has a coiled or hooked end on one end. As a result, it will be easy for you to get your hands on the goods.
- 1 If your wet vacuum includes a dry option, remove the dry dust bag and filter from the machine. To begin, unscrew the top of the vacuum’s collecting tank and set it aside. After that, remove the dry dust bag and filter from the collecting tank by following the manufacturer’s directions for your specific vacuum model. This will prevent both the dust bag and the filter from becoming moist and forming mildew over a period of time.
- After removing the dry dust bag and filter from the collecting tank, replace the top of the tank.
2 Ensure that the suction hose is directed into the toilet. Connect the vacuum cable to the vacuum and turn it on to get started. Then, while holding onto the vacuum hose, direct the end of the hose into the bathroom. Push the hose down the drain as far as it will go.
- When you push the hose down, you may notice or hear the object move somewhat. If this is the case, position the end of the hose such that the opening points directly towards the object.
3 To begin sucking up the water, turn on the vacuum and turn it on. To begin sucking up the toilet water, turn on the vacuum and turn it on. You should continue sucking up the water until you hear the object pass through the hose, or until the collecting tank is completely full of water.
- When vacuuming water, certain wet/dry vacuums have a different setting, so make sure you turn your vacuum on at the appropriate time.
4 Check the vacuum’s collecting tank to see whether the object is still there. You should switch the vacuum off if you hear or see something passing through the hose, or if the collecting tank is beginning to fill up with dirt and debris. To check whether the object has been sucked up through the hose, first unscrew the collecting tank’s lid and look within the tank. If you notice the object, you can pick it up using your hands, a shovel, or any other device that has a scoop or hook on the end to recover it.
- You should also inspect the vacuum line if you don’t see the object in the collecting tank but believe it was sucked up during the cleaning process. It’s possible that the object became stuck in the hose.
5 Vacuum the collecting tank again after it has been emptied. Unless the object is located in the collecting tank or hose, it is most likely still in the toilet tank or hose. In order to attempt again, you must first drain all of the water from the collection tank. Next, insert the hose into the drain and turn the vacuum on to complete the process. Continue vacuuming until you hear or see the object being pulled into the hose, or until the collecting tank is once again completely filled.
- It is possible that you may need to repeat this process several times before the object is successfully sucked up into the vacuum.
6Restroom flushing is necessary to replenish the toilet bowl with water. Flush the toilet once or twice once you’ve found what you’re looking for. Water should be refilled into the toilet bowl and it should be ready for use. Advertisement
- 1 Disconnect the water supply to the toilet. For starters, look for the valve on the side of the toilet, behind it, or at the bottom of it. Then, spin the valve counter-clockwise many times until it is no longer able to be turned. This will switch off the water supply to the toilet, allowing you to avoid flooding and prevent the toilet from flushing while you are working.
- Unless you can locate the valve or if the valve is jammed in place, you’ll most likely need to cut off the water to your home for a brief period of time to resolve the problem. If you have a control unit placed in the basement or an inside closet, you may normally turn off the water supply by switching it off from the control unit.
2Remove the toilet tank’s cover from the toilet. The majority of toilets feature a water tank in the rear behind the bowl, which has a cover that may be removed. Carefully raise the cover to remove it from the tank and place it in a separate location. When you remove the toilet, you will be able to readily reach the inside of the tank, and the lid will be less likely to come off or fracture as a result. 3 Make sure you remove every drop of water from the tank and dishwashing bowl.
Remove all of the water from the tank and toilet bowl with a wet vacuum or a small container. This will prevent any water from leaking or splashing over you or the bathroom floor, and it will also make the toilet lighter and simpler to lift when you are using it.
- Additionally, a baster may be used to suck water out of the tank and bowl
- And
4 Remove the bolts or screws from the bottom of the toilet and set them aside. You will most likely have at least two nuts or screws connecting your toilet to the floor. Unscrew the bolts or screws from each side of the bottom of the toilet with a wrench or a screwdriver (depending on whether your toilet is secured with bolts or screws). This will allow you to detach your toilet from the floor, allowing you to lift it off the ground and dispose of it.
- Make a note of the bolts or screws and save them somewhere safe so that you may use them to re-secure your toilet in its original location later.
5 Disconnect the tank’s water supply line from its fitting. Find the big bolt that connects the water supply pipe to the rear of the toilet tank and tighten it down. Twist the bolt counter-clockwise until it comes loose and the water line is freed from the nut.
- The water line bolt is often a big plastic bolt with ridges to make it easier to grip and unscrew
- However, this is not always the case.
6 Turn the toilet around so that it is on its side. You’ll need to turn the toilet on its side in order to be able to see up inside the toilet and collect the object that was flushed. To do this, locate a comfortable and secure grasp on each side of the toilet that feels comfortable and secure to you. After that, carefully pull the toilet away from its original location on the ground. It should be gently positioned on its side.
- Toilets are quite heavy, so make careful you raise them using your legs rather than your back to avoid injury. You may also want to enlist the assistance of a friend or family member to assist you in lifting the toilet and placing it safely on its side
- You may also want to spread a towel or blanket on the ground to protect your toilet when it is placed on its side
- And you may want to use a tarp or a blanket to cover the toilet when it is placed on its side.
7 Look inside the toilet to see if the object that was flushed is still there. While the toilet is resting on its side, look inside the waste hole to see if you can locate and reach the object that was flushed down the toilet. It is reasonable to expect that if you can see the object, you will be able to reach it with your hands or with any other recovery equipment.
- A flashlight can be useful for seeing into the toilet because the inside of the waste entrance may be dark
- Thus, it is recommended to keep one on hand. If you’re looking for little objects, such as a piece of jewelry, you may also want to check the wax ring that runs around the bottom of the toilet. Very small items, such as jewelry, might have been trapped on the wax ring.
8Return the toilet to its original location and fasten it in place. Turn the toilet back upright and carefully pull it back into its original position. Remove the toilet from the ground by twisting the bolts or screws back into the bottom of the toilet. 3. Afterwards, reconnect the water line and crank the valve counter-clockwise to restore water pressure to the toilet. Fill the toilet tank and bowel with water by flushing it once or twice. Your toilet should be ready to use once more. Advertisement Create a new question
- Question What is the best way to retrieve anything back that has been flushed down the drain? Dave Jones is a writer and musician from the United Kingdom. Cleanup of water after a master plumber or Roto-Rooter Plumbing Dave Jones is a Professional Plumber and the Midwest Regional Vice President of Roto-Rooter PlumbingWater Cleanup. He has over 30 years of experience in the plumbing industry. Jones began working with Roto-Rooter as a drain service technician when he was 18 years old in 1992. Since then, he has worked his way through the ranks, assuming roles of greater responsibility. Prior to being elevated to Contractor Area Manager, Dave worked as the general manager of Roto-Charlotte, Rooter’s North Carolina, and Atlanta, Georgia locations. He was then moved to Regional Vice President. Dave is a Master Plumber with licenses in three states: Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and the state of Georgia. Cleanup of water after a master plumber or Roto-Rooter Plumbing Expert Answer If you are unable to collect the item on your own, you should contact a plumber who is equipped with a video camera snake. When using a camera snake, the operator may drive the camera snake down the pipe while monitoring a video monitor that displays everything in the drainage system in real time
- However, camera snakes are more expensive. Question What should you do if you accidentally flush something down the toilet? Dave Jones is a writer and musician from the United Kingdom. Cleanup of water after a master plumber or Roto-Rooter Plumbing Dave Jones is a Professional Plumber and the Midwest Regional Vice President of Roto-Rooter PlumbingWater Cleanup. He has over 30 years of experience in the plumbing industry. Jones began working with Roto-Rooter as a drain service technician when he was 18 years old in 1992. Since then, he has worked his way through the ranks, assuming roles of greater responsibility. Prior to being elevated to Contractor Area Manager, Dave worked as the general manager of Roto-Charlotte, Rooter’s North Carolina, and Atlanta, Georgia locations. He was then moved to Regional Vice President. Dave is a Master Plumber with licenses in three states: Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and the state of Georgia. Licensed Master Plumber with Roto-Rooter Plumbing Services Expert in Water Cleanup Answer Once the object has been flushed down the public sewage, it is unlikely that you will be able to recover it. For those of you who live in a house with a septic tank, you should contact a septic tank pumping service to see if they can empty out the tank and assist you in locating your ring. Although it’s a long shot, it’s worth a chance
- Question The question is, how can I recover my money after it was flushed down the toilet? In the event that you were unable to remove your money from the toilet before it was flushed, there is no way to recover your money
- Question I’m having trouble getting a little lotion bottle out of the P-trap in the bathroom. Turn off the water and flush the toilet. Remove the pipe from the tank by unscrewing it. Remove the toilet’s bolts and turn the toilet upside down to remove the bolts. You should be able to see the lotion bottle at this point. If you can’t quite get to it, use a pair of pliers to help you out. The result can be quite a mess, so be sure to dust and protect your room accordingly: Question Is it possible to flush a pair of pliers down the toilet? The answer is dependent on the size and weight of the objects, but I would not rule it out. When I flush my keys down the toilet, how can I know for certain that they were flushed? Only if and when you discover them in the drain pipe should you proceed. If you have to employ a plumber, this might be rather expensive
- Question A few of days ago, I flushed two little sticks down the toilet with some hair, and the toilet is now stuck. What should I do in this situation? You may try using a snake to unclog the drain, or you could just call a plumber. Question What is the best way to remove a stick of deodorant out of my toilet? It’s just out of reach, tucked away in the first bend of the road. Remove the toilet seat and insert three flexible straws through the bottom of the bowl. Then, with your hand, reach into the bowl and take the deodorant
- Question I flushed a ring by mistake a couple of days ago. Is there any chance of getting it back? This may prove tough to do. Even if you flushed, there’s a good chance that it’s now in the drain system and on its way down the storm drain system, or that you’ll have to fish it out of your septic system. Question What is the best way to get a flip phone out of the toilet? Place a plastic bag over your hand and then reach inside to take it out
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- It is not a good idea to flush the toilet if you have something caught in it since it will drive the item further into the drainage system. In order to protect the item’s value, it’s best not to have any running water in any part of the house since the water flow may force it all the way into the main or municipal sewage. Even if you are successful in retrieving the flushed object, you may need to contact a professional plumber to see if they can locate the item for you. Use of a plunger should be avoided since it has the potential to push the item past the toilet and into the pipes.
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Things You’ll Need
- A pair of rubber gloves (optional), a wire hanger, a drain snake, a wet vacuum, and a flashlight (optional).
About This Article
Summary of the ArticleXIf you need to retrieve something that has been flushed down the toilet, try utilizing a metal coat hanger. To begin, untwist the hanger and straighten it out as much as possible. Then, bend one end into a hook form so that it may be used to reach around the curve and pull the object out. A drain snake is another tool that may be used to recover an object. A drain snake is simple to use: simply push one end beyond the object and hook it as you draw the drain snake out. You may also use a wet vacuum to get the job done.
Next, hold your breath until you hear the object travel through the suction hose. Continue reading for information on how to retrieve the object by removing the toilet. Did you find this overview to be helpful? The writers of this page have together authored a page that has been read 387,978 times.
