Further problems can arise if a sump pump, icemaker, or dehumidifier drains into the septic tank. Each of these devices can add excess water and should not be connected into your septic system. This surface water will saturate the soil to the point that it can no longer absorb additional water.
- I have seen several posts from septic companies recommending against discharging dehumidifier condensate into the septic system. I’m guessing that it’s just an added strain on the system, but I’m not sure. It is a fair amount of water.
Can condensate drain to septic?
Freezing. Problem: When this condensation builds up, it slowly trickles out of the unit and into the plumbing that may be connected to a septic system. In cold climates, this water can cause freezing problems in the septic system because of the slow, low flow.
Is it OK to drain dehumidifier into sump pump?
Depending on how much moisture is being collected from the air, a dehumidifier bucket typically needs to be emptied every day or two. By attaching a hose and allowing it to drain into a sump pump, you can eliminate the need to empty the humidifier.
Can I drain dehumidifier into toilet?
You’d have to install the dehumidifier high up, so that gravity takes the water down to the toilet tank. Alternatively, you’d have to have a pump to move the water up from near the floor, to the tank. Better you should use the container in the dehumidifier like a bucket, and dump it into the toilet bowl to flush.
Why isn’t my dehumidifier draining?
Check to make sure that your drain hose is free from bends and kinks, clogs or other damage that may prevent water from flowing freely. Improper installation of the drain hose adapter may result in the unit continuing to drain into the bucket, or not draining at all.
How do you fix a dehumidifier that won’t drain?
What To Do If Your Dehumidifier Won’t Drain
- Make sure the hose is routed downward.
- Check to ensure that your drain hose is free from bends, kinks, clogs, or other damage that may prevent water from flowing freely.
- Ensure that the hose end is not resting in standing water.
Can you drain condensate into sewer?
Should you be worried about an AC condensate drain into the sewer? A simple answer would be yes. An AC condensate line should never connect to sewage directly. This lets the sewage air enter your AC system.
Can condensate drain to sanitary sewer?
Condensate from all cooling coils or evaporators shall be conveyed from the drain pan outlet to an approved place of disposal. Different municipalities may require condensate be disposed of to the sanitary sewer, while others may require disposal to building exterior or storm drainage piping.
Can boiler condensate go into septic tank?
Condensate from Condensing Boilers MUST NOT be drained into Foul Drains when a septic tank or sewage treatment plant is part of the foul drainage system. The condensate kills the bacteria in the tanks due to its high acidity and the sewage treatment stops working.
Do all dehumidifiers need to be emptied?
All portable dehumidifiers have a water collection container, often called a tank or a bucket, to collect the water extracted from the air. These buckets are quite small, to keep the overall size of the dehumidifier down, and need to be emptied at least once a day.
Where is the best place to put a dehumidifier?
In conclusion, the best place to keep a dehumidifier most definitely is the downstairs basement or upstairs close to the stairs. This is because the basement is the most humid place in your house. If there is any other moist condition upstairs, its source must be resolved rather than placing a dehumidifier.
Do dehumidifiers come with drain hose?
No, the drain hose is NOT included with the dehumidifier.
How high can a dehumidifier pump water?
When the 16 foot long pump drain hose (included with drain pump models) is connected and the water level inside the bucket is full, the drain pump automatically pumps the water to a drain. The drain pump can pump up to 16 vertical feet.
Will a dehumidifier remove standing water?
If you were to ask if dehumidifiers can remove water from a space; well the answer is relative. The dehumidifier can give you dry air, dry floor, and drywall. Although it can pull out the dampness extensively and ensure your home is no longer wet; a dehumidifier cannot drain water that is standing for inches deep.
Can a dehumidifier be off the floor?
If you are planning to place the dehumidifier on an elevated area, it can be placed at 2 to 3 feet off the floor. It is important to consider that dehumidifiers work even at a raised position, but that will depend on their capacity.
Plumbing Dehumidifier Drain
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| Author:Don411 (NY)Bought a dehumidifier for the basement, and it has a built-in condensate pump that will pump up to 15′ elevation.The main waste line in the basement runs along the wall, about 4′ off of the floor.Is there a way to connect the dehumidifer to the waste line so that it drains on its own and eliminates the need to empty the drain pan?Basement is unfinished and will stay that way. |
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| Author:North Carolina Plumber (NC)It would be better if you could run the drain into a washing machine drain standpipe. If you do tie into the drain in the basement, it will requiretrap, vent and standpipe. |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)Washing machine is upstairs.So it needs a standpipe set up like for a washer, is there a requirement on the length of the standpipe? |
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| Author:packy (MA)you will be much better off draining it into an existing trap that is being used regularly. a seperate trap used only by the dehumidifier will dry out during winter and you will get sewer smell in the house.a branch tailpiece can be installed to accept the water. |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)No existing fixtures in the basement. |
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| Author:bernabeu (SC)? floor drain?if not, run a tube outdoors and simply let ‘er drip-Retired U.A. Local 1638″Measure TwiceCut Once” |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)No floor drain either.The boiler guys are installing a condensate pump for the new condensing boiler but I neglected to ask them how/where they are connecting it |
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| Author:packy (MA)no fixtures on the first floor? |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)Kitchen sink which has a DW tee and the lav sink which is over a crawlspace and not accessible from bsmt. |
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| Author:packy (MA)do you have a garbage disposer? if yes, run the DW drain into the nipple supplied on the disposer and run the dehumidifier drain to the DW tailpiece. |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)I think my best option is to drill a hole in the window frame and run 1/2″ clear vinyl tubing outside.It got me thinking though, we are due to have our high-efficiency condensing boiler installed when the utility runs the gas pipe in, and the plumber will be installing a condensate pump.I didn’t ask how he going to handle the condensate, whether into the domestic waste line or out the window.What’s common? |
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| Author:North Carolina Plumber (NC)The condensate is acidic and we can’t dump it into a septic tank here. We run them into a floor drain that is piped to the outside. |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)OK, I think I have this figured out.The 2″ line is from the kitchen sink and feeds into the main waste line.I added a wye, trap, and standpipe with check valve.Once the catch basin reaches a certain level the pump will run for about 30 seconds and then cycle off, it doesn’t pump the basin dry, only maintains a less-than-full level so it doesn’t trip the full switch.See pics below, the tube from the appliance is 1/4″ ID vinyl, it hangs about 5″ into the standpipe.Let me know if this is OK or needs some work.I tested the check valve under the faucet and the smallest amount of water flows through, even drips, so that shouldn’t back up.Edited 1 times. |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)No comments on this set up? |
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| Author:exapprentice30 (MA)The new trap is not vented properly but a constant drip will keep the trap full when the dehumidifier is used. |
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| Author:Don411 (NY)What is the proper way to vent?I thought a standpipe like this didn’t need a separate vent. |
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Dehumidifier drain question
A 70-pint dehumidifier is running in my basement to reduce humidity from 65-69 percent to 45-50 percent, which is ideal for my needs. Once upon a time, I would empty the bucked twice a day, but it became tedious pretty soon (and even then it would fill in less than 12 hours, I should have probably emptied 3x per day but that is not practical) The next option is to connect a drain hose to the system. I have it draining into a sump well in my basement. I don’t believe it ever reaches high enough to trigger the pump; instead, I believe it just slowly sinks into the earth.
- The third and best alternative is to dig a tiny hole in the wall and have it drain outside (this is the least expensive).
- My main concern is what will happen during the winter, when the outside hose will freeze and the pump will be unable to function.
- This would never freeze in the first place.
- Alternatively, perhaps in the winter when the temperature is below freezing and humidity is not an issue in the basement?
- Edited 1 time in total (s).
Septic System Do’s and Don’ts – Septic Tank and Septic System Services, Repairs, Installations in New Jersey
Skip to the main content MenuClose Take note of these suggestions on what to do and what not to do if you have a septic system for waste management at your residence or place of business. A decent rule of thumb is: if you haven’t eaten it, wouldn’t eat it, or couldn’t eat it, don’t put anything in the septic system.
Septic System Do’s
- Spread out your laundry usage over the course of the week rather than doing many loads on one day. However, while it may be handy to dedicate a whole day to laundry, doing so would place a significant strain on your septic system. Consider connecting your laundry waste to a separate waste disposal system to save money (dry well or seepage pit). While it is not generally essential, it will minimize the pressure on the regular system and allow a mediocre system to survive. Laundry loads should be spaced out and only complete loads should be washed. In order to complete one load of laundry, 47 gallons of water are required. It makes a significant difference to your septic tank if you just do one load every day rather than seven loads on Saturday. In addition, front-loading washers consume less water than top-loading washers
- Liquid laundry detergent should be used. Clay is used as a ‘carrier’ in powdered laundry detergents to transport the detergent. This clay can expedite the building of sediments in the septic tank and perhaps fill the disposal area
- Reduce the number of home cleaners (bleach, strong cleansers, and similar harmful compounds)
- And reduce the amount of fertilizer and pesticides used. Home sewage treatment systems are not adversely affected by the presence of detergents, food waste, laundry waste, and other household chemicals in reasonable proportions. Don’t forget to keep a permanent record of where the most important sections of your septic system are situated in case you need to do future maintenance (such as septic pumping service or field repairs)
- Schedule septic pumping service on a regular basis. Every two to three years, or if the total depth of sludge and scum surpasses one-third of the liquid level of the tank, the contents of the septic tank should be drained out. It is possible that the sediments will be transferred into the absorption field, or leach field as it is more frequently known, if the tank does not receive regular cleaning. A rapid blockage ensues, which is followed by a premature failure, and eventually the leach field must be replaced. In comparison to rebuilding your leach field, pumping your septic tank is less costly. Instead of using the inspection ports located above the inlet and exit baffles, insist on having your septic tank cleaned through the manhole in the center of the top of your septic tank. Don’t forget to keep track of your septic pumping service and septic system maintenance. When at all feasible, conserve water by using water-saving gadgets. Reduced flush toilets and shower heads are readily available on the market. Install water fixtures that consume little water. Showerheads (2.5 gallons per minute), toilets (1.6 gallons), dishwashers (5.3 gallons), and washing machines are all examples of high-volume water users (14 gallons). A family of four may save 20,000 gallons of water per year by putting fixtures such as these in their home. Inspect any pumps, siphons, or other moving elements in your system on a regular basis
- And Trees with substantial root systems that are developing near the leach field should be removed or prevented from growing there. Planting trees around your leach field is not recommended. Branches and roots from trees in close proximity to the absorption lines may clog the system. Check your interceptor drain on a regular basis to verify that it is free of obstructions
- And Run water routinely down drains that are rarely used, such as sinks, tubs, showers, and other similar fixtures, to prevent harmful gases from building up and producing aromas within
- All drainage from the roof, cellar, and footings, as well as surface water, must be excluded from the drainage system. It is permissible to discharge drainage water directly to the ground surface without treatment. Check to see that it is draining away from your sewage treatment facility. There should be no drainage of roof downspouts into the leach field. When water softeners are used, the backwash contains salt, which might harm your leach field. In order to protect your well and precious plants, you should discharge this waste into a separate system or to the ground surface. Make sure that swimming pools (above-ground or in-ground) are kept away from the leach field.
Septic System Don’ts
- Garbage disposals should be avoided. In addition to increasing the accumulation of solids in the septic tank, garbage grinders also increase solids entering the leach fields and pits, which are both detrimental to the environment. Their downsides exceed the convenience they give, and they are thus not suggested for houses that have their own sewage treatment systems in place. If septic tanks are utilized, the capacity of the tank should be raised, or the discharge should be routed via a separate tank first, known as a garbage tank. The system should discharge into the septic tank or into a separate leaching system rather than straight into the current leaching system once it has been installed. For those who have a garbage disposal, make sure to pump it more frequently– or, better yet, compost your kitchen wastes altogether. Disposals result in the accumulation of fats, particularly from meat and bones, as well as insoluble vegetable particles. Here are a few items (this is not an exhaustive list) that should never be dumped into a septic tank or leach field:
- Cigarette butts, disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, tampons, handi-wipes, pop-off toilet wand scrubbers, garbage, condoms, hair, bandages, and so forth
- Ragstrings, coffee grounds, paper towels, anti-bacterial soaps – biodegradable soaps only
- No “biocompatible soaps”
- Ragstrings, coffee grounds, paper towels Dead fish or small animals
- Rubber, plastic, or metallic things
- Hard toilet paper – soft toilet paper is preferable for the tank.
- Excessive use of chlorine and chemicals should be avoided – (1 part chlorine to 5 parts water makes an effective bacteria cleaning spray)
- Allowing water conditioning backwashes or outflow from water softeners, purifiers, sanitizers, or conditioners is not recommended. Dehumidifiers and air conditioners release moisture
- Discharges from hot pools and jacuzzis Water from leaking devices, such as toilets that are difficult to detect. Make a habit of color testing the toilet on a regular basis to look for septic system issues. Keep dirt and inert materials to a minimum. Clothes, fruits, and vegetables that have been soiled should be dusted off before washing. Even diluted, do not dispose of chemicals from x-ray equipment since they will condense and harm the subsurface environment, which is against the law. Avoid using hair conditioners that include heavy oils – if you do, please let us know so that we may make adjustments to compensate with more or alternative bacteria (or avoid using them totally if they are not biodegradable). Keep grease from the kitchen OUT of the septic system. It is difficult to break down and might cause a blockage in your drain field. In order to dissolve these oils, there are currently no known solvents that are safe for use in groundwater. Chemical additions for septic tanks are not advised. Household systems cannot function properly if additives are used. In addition, excessive use of these chemicals may cause the waste from your toilet to be released into your septic tank, causing your system to fail prematurely. It is possible that some additives will damage your groundwater. In order for your septic system to function properly, no extra additives are required. Many of those that market their services as “solid waste removal” really deliver on their promises. During the solids removal process, the solids are transported to a disposal field. When the solids reach the disposal area, they shut up the space and cause the system to malfunction. Furthermore, although it is not harmful, it is not required to “seed” a new system with yeast or other organisms. Even routinely disposed of human waste includes enough bacteria to populate the septic tank, and other microorganisms are already in the soil and stones of the disposal region
Solution When You Don’t Have a Floor Drain for a Dehumidifier
When I enter into a room, there is always something that has been done correctly that I have to explain and in some cases even ask people to do. As an environmental expert, this is something I look for and appreciate. This is an example of it being done correctly in this photograph. The majority of individuals will not leap out of bed in the morning and empty their dehumidifier, and they will not do the same thing again immediately before they go to bed each night. I’ll go a step further and say that the majority of people will not go to a dehumidifier and empty it at any time of day on most days.
One end of the hose is attached to the dehumidifier’s fitting, while the other end is connected to a floor drainage system.
(That ancient adage about water flowing downhill) As a result, when a basement requires the use of a dehumidifier but there is no floor drain into which to direct the hose, there is a problem.
The dehumidifier is located on the top rack, which is visible in the photograph. The pump is located on the bottom rack. The pumps range in price from $40.00 to $100.00. Condensate Pumps from Home Depot are available by clicking here. For a description of how they function, please see:
Running a dehumidifier continuously
All, My basement is usually a little musty, and I have to run the dehumidifier pretty much all of the time to keep it from becoming moldy. The problem is that I despise having to change the tank. Several of the versions I’ve seen come with an attached hose that you may use to connect to your drain. The fact that we have a restroom down there is fortunate, but it would need running the line from the humidifier to the bathroom for around 10 feet. Is there any difficulty in doing so? I would have the hose enter the drain pipe under the sink in a Y shape, similar to how dishwasher drain hoses enter the pipe.
- Thanks, Josh All, My basement is usually a little musty, and I have to run the dehumidifier pretty much all of the time to keep it from being too damp.
- Several of the versions I’ve seen come with a hose that can be connected directly to your drainage system.
- Is it possible to do so without encountering any difficulties?
- Are there any more efficient methods of accomplishing this?
- The dehumidifier will not force the drain water to go upward.
- Due to the fact that my basement floor drains are no longer working (due to corroded and collapsed pipes), I’ve been searching for a remedy on my own.
- As long as it slopes in the direction of the drain?
Also, would there be any possibility of odors re-entering the building through the drainage pipe?
Dishwashers ‘pump’ out their water, according to AFIK.
I just place mine close to the floor drain and do not require the use of a hose.
s”Josh Kalish” posted a message in the news:47099a42 thread.
“Josh Kalish” said in the message news:[email protected] that he was “snipped for privacy.” As long as it is a gradual incline all the way down, there will be no difficulties.
The sump pump will get a little workout as a result of this.
There is a more effective method than the one you are contemplating.
rather than using the drill, bore a hole in the side of the tank.
If you are not sure in your ability to build your own seal, garden supply stores have a particular plastic portion that will do the job for you (it is used in hydroponic systems).
On the outside of the tank, there is a rubber washer that creates a seal against the tank on both sides, as well as a male protrusion into which you may insert your hose to connect it.
There is an additional charge of roughly $10 for this service, but you will not have to bother about creating a seal. I hope this has been of assistance. William
Humorously dejected. I’d be delighted to. My sump pit, on the other hand, is nothing more than a 20-gallon oil barrel lowered into the basement slab with no pump and no escape holes. To top it off, it’s bone dry. Aside from dismantling the deck long enough to connect a line to a deep drywell, there is no other viable option for draining the water. The washer and condensate lines for the high-efficiency furnace and softener are routed into the septic tank’s overburdened collecting pipe. The old washer collector only connects to the floor drains that are no longer working.
- My laundry sink is useless since it merely pours onto the floor when I try to use it.
- I’d still have to redo the plumbing in the septic collector, and I’d have to install a funnel to the end so that additional hoses could fit in there.
- Wash cycles take an eternity because of the long drain pipe that must be used to reach the septic collection.
- (This basement was definitely not planned in before; it just happened.) Actually, dishwashers are normally attached to the sink drain above the sink’s trap, which means that there should be little stench coming from the drain when the dishwasher is running.
- Thank you everybody for your suggestions.
- However, I’m unsure if I should get a new dehumidifier or not.
- I’m not sure what brand it is; the only thing I can discover on the unit is a label that says “HB-60 Rev-L.” I’m not sure what to do at this point.
- It appears that just connecting the dehumidifier (or the connection from the condensate pump) to the pump tank would be a straightforward process.
- Thanks, Josh
Here are 3 Ways to Drain a Dehumidifier to The Outside
A dehumidifier is a device that helps to eliminate excess moisture from a home while also regulating the humidity levels. Once the dehumidifier reservoir has been completely filled with condensate, it must be emptied in order to continue operating. It is necessary to drain the dehumidifier on a regular basis in order for it to function properly. Even if you are unable to manually empty your dehumidifier, automatic drainage to the exterior will guarantee that it operates smoothly and without interruption.
In this post, we will discuss three different methods for automatically draining a dehumidifier to the outdoors.
These solutions will work for you regardless of whether your dehumidifier has a pump or not. Your dehumidifier, on the other hand, must have a gravity drain, or, more particularly, a dehumidifier with a hose to drain option, in order to function properly.
How to Drain a Dehumidifier to The Outside
While all dehumidifiers contain a reservoir for collecting condensate, some will also offer a drain hose option, which allows you to remove condensate using gravity rather than a pump. If your dehumidifier and home fulfill the standards, this is a low-cost alternative that you should consider. The key to employing this method of emptying a dehumidifier is that it only works with gravity. To begin, a floor drain must be installed. For those of you whose home or basement does not have a floor drain, please go to the second way.
- Usually, a drainage hose is supplied, but if your dehumidifier does not come with one, you may use a common garden hose to empty the unit instead.
- After you have connected the hose, the following step is to set up the dehumidifier.
- Locate a table or a raised platform that is strong enough to support the weight of your dehumidifier.
- After that, fill the dehumidifier tank with water and route the hose to the drain in the floor.
- If everything is in working order, drain the water that has been supplied manually and let the dehumidifier to continue to run for another hour or until it stops leaking.
2. Use a Condensate Pump
In the case of air conditioners, dehumidifiers, freezers, and other similar appliances that produce a buildup of water, a condensate pump is used to drain the condensate. A condensate pump transports water from inside a building to the exterior of the structure for proper drainage and disposal. Condensate pumps are an excellent alternative if your property does not have a floor drain or a location to empty your dehumidifier. First and foremost, you must ensure that your dehumidifier is properly configured to drain water using gravity.
- Connect the hose to the dehumidifier and run the other end of the line to the condensate pump to complete the installation.
- When the level of collected water in the condensate pump tank reaches a predetermined level, a float mechanism will activate, causing the pump to begin pumping water.
- Condensate pumps have the ability to move water either horizontally or vertically.
- Through a window or a door leading to the outdoors, this will be conveniently accessible from both inside and outside of the basement.
The pump has a lift of 22 feet, or around 6.5 meters, which is significantly greater than that of condensate pumps. See our advice on the best condensate pumps for a dehumidifier for more information.
3. Get a Dehumidifier with a Pump
If you already have a dehumidifier, this may not be the most cost-effective solution for your situation. For those searching for a dehumidifier that will operate automatically and without the need for supervision, a built-in pump dehumidifier is the best option to consider. We also have a guide to the finest dehumidifiers with a pump, which you can read more about here. Dehumidifiers that are equipped with a pumping mechanism will typically come with an extra-long drain line that is custom-made to match the specific model.
The Ivation IVADH70PWP2 is our preferred model because of its 16.4-foot pumping height.
It is also useful for usage in difficult-to-reach areas where manually emptying the dehumidifier would be difficult.
Wrapping Up
It is not possible for the majority of individuals to manually drain a dehumidifier. Draining a dehumidifier through a hose is the most convenient and straightforward method for continual application. Choosing the most appropriate dehumidifier water drainage solution for your dehumidifier will depend on the dehumidifier and is essential to ensuring a smooth functioning. I hope that this post has assisted you in determining which strategy is best for you. If you have any questions or recommendations, please leave a comment and we will respond as soon as possible.
WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON’T PUMP YOUR SEPTIC TANK?
By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.
- Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
- A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
- When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
- In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
- Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
- Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
- In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.
Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.
grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.
Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.
Water conservation should be practiced.
Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.
Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.
The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.
Draining a basement humidifier (how much, contractors, price) – Long Island – New York (NY) – Page 3
Please registerto participate in our discussions with 2 million other members – it’s free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After youcreate your account, you’ll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.| Quote:Originally Posted byQuick CommenterNow he has two drainage hoses plugging into a large PVC waste pipe (both connections are heavily sealed around the edges with serious goop).If by waste pipe you mean his house’s waste line (connected to either a sewer or septic system), he’ll have to un-seal those connections if/when he wants to sell the house, because a direct connection of a condensate line to a waste line is against code in most places. Connections like that are supposed to be indirect (with an air gap) and with a P-trap.On a practical level, with the sealed/direct connection he is gambling that he willneverhave a waste line backup. If he does, that “stuff” will also back up right through the condensate lines and into his dehumidifier and/or furnace, thus ruining both. Just sayin’.On the other hand, if that PVC pipe is just going out to the exterior somewhere and not part of the house’s actual waste line, he’s fine. |
| 08-15-2018, 10:37 AM |
| Quote:Originally Posted byBBCjunkieIf by waste pipe you mean his house’s waste line (connected to either a sewer or septic system), he’ll have to un-seal those connections if/when he wants to sell the house, because a direct connection of a condensate line to a waste line is against code in most places. Connections like that are supposed to be indirect (with an air gap) and with a P-trap.On a practical level, with the sealed/direct connection he is gambling that he willneverhave a waste line backup. If he does, that “stuff” will also back up right through the condensate lines and into his dehumidifier and/or furnace, thus ruining both. Just sayin’.On the other hand, if that PVC pipe is just going out to the exterior somewhere and not part of the house’s actual waste line, he’s fine.As I noted in my post ” I am not a plumber so I may not be properly describing the location of precisely where the condensate lines plug into the waste drain line. Your experience may vary, of course.” Don’t know if it is indirect and trapped.Practically speaking, where should the condensation line exiting the furnace pump exit the basement? My observation was that my friend connectedthe line exiting the dehumidifier pump in the same precise manner. (Granted, you may not have a properly installed and connected furnace condensation line in your basement to mimic as my friend did.).
Last edited by Quick Commenter; 08-15-2018 at11:30 AM. |
| We have always had oil heat (which is common here in the Northeast) and so there’s no condensate line in the heating system.Maybe someone here who has gas heat can chime in with what their condensate drain setup is like.Maybe the PVC pipe to which the condensate lines are directly attached then continues on to the waste line and connects to that via the indirect method.Usually the state or local plumbing code will contain something like this, which is in the IPC (International Plumbing Code):”802.1.5 Nonpotable clear-water waste. Where devices and equipment such as process tanks, filters, drips and boilers discharge nonpotable water to the building drainage system, the discharge shall be through an indirect waste pipe by means ofan air break or an air gap.”The above only applies to a connection to the building/house waste system. You can do a direct (sealed) connection if the line is simply going directly to the outdoors. |
| Quote:Originally Posted byBBCjunkieI hate the idea of a dehumidifier because I’ve known several people whose units (a) died after only a year, (b) dramatically increased their electric bill, (c) flooded their basement because the shutoff failed, or(d) flooded their basement because either the drain hose leaked or the built-in pump failed. Going down there (exterior entrance only) several times a day to haul up a bucket and carry it out into the yard for dumping is NOT an option.No floor drain or plumbing fixtures in the basement. The waste line is about 4 ft off the floor, so my plan is to get one of those 2-shelf steel shelving units, put a dehumidifier on the upper shelf, a Little Giant condensate pump on the lower shelf, and then run the condensate line to. where?IMO, that’s not a good plan.I’ve had one flood in my basement over the years. It was due to the HVAC system condensation pump failing. Your situation is potentially worse since a dehumidifier can generate much more water in a shorter time.I have a dehumidifier in my finished basement and one in another property in an unfinished basement. The unfinished basement property is not occupied all the time, so something that could cause a flood situation is especially problematic.I have had good success with both of these units:Danby DDR60A3GP 60 Pint Dehumidifier with PumpWinix 851The Winix ran almost continuous for two years before I had any trouble. Even though the problem was due to construction issues (dust clogged everything up) Winix replaced it with a new unit under warranty at no cost. The replacement has been running continuously for about five years now without a hiccup.The Darby has also been running for almost five years without a problem.Both units have a built-in pump. They also have a failsafe. If the pump fails, the “bucket” fills and turns off the machine when filled (working same as a unit without a pump).In the finished basement house, I have the unit next to my furnace room. I run the tube into the room and out through a 1/4″ hole I drilled – right next the HVAC unit’s condensation pump tube.In the unfinished home, the tube drains into the outlet for the washing machine drain. If that wasn’t an option, drilling a small hole to drain the tube to the exterior would have been simple.You can drain into a waste line. You just need to be careful how you do it. If you have a drain of some type for a washer you can use that. If you are thinking of cutting into the main drain for the house, it is probably a better idea to involve a plumber. |
| Oh, I would definitely go the plumber route for sure. I practically have him on speed-dial, LOLThere are no drains or fixtures anywhere in the basement. Just the house’s waste line. The clothes washer is on the first floor, not in the basement.My theory on having two separate appliances (dehumidifier without built-in pump, plus Little Giant condensate pump) is that if the dehumidifier dies I’ll still have a working Little Giant, and if the Little Giant should fail, the dehumidifier’s full-bucket safety shutoff SHOULD shut the dehumidifier down. The reason for the shelf is so that gravity will more easily drain the water from the dehumidifier down into the condensate pump, which will then lift it up again to either the waste line or to an exit at the top of the basement wall. Not much difference in “lift” between them: the waste line is about 4 ft above the floor and the basement ceiling is 7 ft.There will be a drain pan and a water alarm below the dehumidifier-and-pump setup for sure, though. Just in case the pump AND the dehumidifier’s full-bucket-shutoff should both fail.But I figure the chance of one combined (dehumifier/pump) appliance failing is greater than two separate appliances failing at the same time. There’s probably a Murphy’s Law about that somewhere, LOL |
| The post above is referring to the “furnace” with a condensate pump is probably a A coil in the ductwork for air conditioning.And secondly you always add a cut off switch in the condensate drain pan of a AC unit incase of pump failure. Always. |
| Quote:Originally Posted byBBCjunkieMy theory on having two separate appliances (dehumidifier without built-in pump, plus Little Giant condensate pump) is that if the dehumidifier dies I’ll still have a working Little Giant, and if the Little Giant should fail, the dehumidifier’s full-bucket safety shutoff SHOULD shut the dehumidifier down. The reason for the shelf is so that gravity will more easily drain the water from the dehumidifier down into the condensate pump, which will then lift it up again to either the waste line or to an exit at the top of the basement wall. Not much difference in “lift” between them: the waste line is about 4 ft above the floor and the basement ceiling is 7 ft.There will be a drain pan and a water alarm below the dehumidifier-and-pump setup for sure, though. Just in case the pump AND the dehumidifier’s full-bucket-shutoff should both fail.But I figure the chance of one combined (dehumifier/pump) appliance failing is greater than two separate appliances failing at the same time. There’s probably a Murphy’s Law about that somewhere, LOLI’m likely not fully understanding your setup. For the dehumidifiers I am familiar with, you would be bypassing the built-in bucket (and associated shut off) by using a different drainage method. Either way, how would the drain know that the external pump has failed so it can switch to the bucket?Regarding failure, yes, the chance of one failing is greater than two failing at the same time. However, with a separate pump, only that one item needs to fail to cause a problem. The dehumidifier will continue to send water because it has no idea the pump has failed, been unplugged or even be removed. With a built-in pump, the unit is designed to work together. A broken pump will cause the bucket to fill (or shut the unit down) before an overflow.Quote:Originally Posted byrocafeller05The post above is referring to the “furnace” with a condensate pump is probably a A coil in the ductwork for air conditioning.And secondly you always add a cut off switch in the condensate drain pan of a AC unit incase of pump failure. Always.I agree with you in concept. My experience has been “never” in practice. In the past 10 years I have seen four separate installs/upgrades of systems with condensate pumps. All done by quality, licensed plumbers. NONE have installed a cut off switch. (Unless I misunderstand your point – the drain pan is in the unit, the pump is separate and on the floor. Similar to this:Like the above situation, the drain pan will continue to gravity feed water to the pump via a hose. It has no way to know if the pump is working or not. I also can’t see an obvious method of connecting one of these pumps to a cut off switch).I’m not claiming they are right. Just pointing out the reality.For a simple dehumidifier situation where one wants to avoid constant bucket changes, I personally think that dehumidifier + separate pump + drain pan + water alarms + cutoff switch is seriously overthinking the situation. IMO, it makes more sense to simply buy a single dehumidifier unit with a built-in pump.Easier. Less expensive. Simpler to set up. Simpler to maintain. Less to go wrong.Of course, there’s nothing wrong with doing it a more complicated way.Edited to add: some looking and I see there are condensate pumps that do include an overflow safety that can be wired into the HVAC system. Great idea, yes. Makes me wonder why they are not more common. I would still have to wonder how easy that would be to wire into a typical consumer dehumidifier – if it can be done at all.
Last edited by Joe461; 08-15-2018 at04:39 PM. |
| Actually (although I have just begun the process of dehumidifier-shopping; I hope to settle on one by the weekend) from what I’m seeing so far, the ones with the built-in pump are more expensive than the combo of non-pumping plus an external condensate pump like the Little Giant. Either that or the cost comes out to essentially the same.As far as performance and reliability ratings, though I haven’t gone through every model yet, it does seem that in the 70-pint capacity the non-pumping ones seem to have better overall reviews. But that’s still a work in progress.When you get into the weeds on the specs of dehumidifiers, you discover that none of them have the CFM that’s needed to quickly dehumidify a 1300 sq ft basement that has a 7 foot ceiling. By doing the math, a space that size that is moderately damp (averaging between 60% and 70% humidity) needs a unit that can process at least 400 cubic feet of air per minute through it (it’s actually more like 440). Your typical 70 pint model has a CFM of slightly below 200, and even the 95 pint ones (from the Frigidaire at $500 to the AprilAire at $1200) don’t even crack 250. No wonder people complain that their dehumidifier is running all the time.I was surprised to see that the commercial/industrial dehumidifiers used by companies like ServPro etc etc have CFMs that are only in the 200s. I’d expect those to be over 300 cfm, but they’re not. Ya learn something new every day, lol |
| 08-16-2018, 08:53 AM |
| Given your situation and preferences, looks like this is what you are looking at:Incudes some commentary on freezing issues when water is pumped outside.(These pumps are very commonly used in basements with today’shigh efficiency gas hot airfurnaces ( 1:39 to 1:45) and also with AC units and dehumidifiers.)
Last edited by Quick Commenter; 08-16-2018 at09:16 AM. |
| Yes, that’s it almost exactly. The two things I’d change about his setup are:(1) Raise the dehumidifier higher relative to the pump, so that the gravity feed works better. Like this:Solution When You Don’t Have a Floor Drain for a Dehumidifier – Green Home Solutions BlogThe unit in this example is only a 35 pint so for the heavier 70 pint models it might be better to just raise it up on a few cinder blocks instead.(2) That guy’s got way too many 45-degree angles in that exterior piping run of his but I can see why he has to do it if he wants it to empty into the driveway. For my situation I’d rather have the interior pipe run terminate in a frost-free hose bib (spigot) instead. It will come out onto a brick patio but because I want the water carried away from the house, I’ll run a 6 or 8 foot length of garden hose straight out from the spigot to a nearby flowerbed; because I doubt the unit will be running during the winter, I’ll remove the hose, leave the spigot open and stick a cheap bucket underneath it just in case.The guy in the video sounds (from his accent) like he’s in Massachusetts and so I’m curious as to how he keeps that exterior PVC line from freezing; it definitely isn’t below the frost line, looks like it just has a layer of mulch over it. |
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Hard Plumbing a Dehumidifier in the basement?
Re: Is it necessary to install a dehumidifier in the basement? Hi, Plumbing is one of those things that doesn’t appear to change all that much through time, but tends to be subject to a great deal of interpretation depending on where you live. If he’s clever, respectable, and capable, you’d be advised to follow the suggestions of a local plumber, because he’ll be the one who is most familiar with the requirements of your particular area. Even so, you are generally permitted to discharge humidifiers and condensate systems into the plumbing system, provided that you provide for an air gap between the two systems.
The wrong connection of this sort of equipment would pose a serious health concern, and it is the installer’s responsibility to be fully informed of the legislation governing such installations.
All of this equipment must be drained through an indirect waste pipe to ensure proper operation.
Dishwashing or culinary sinks in any food preparation room, unless such receptacle is used to soak or wash ready-to-serve food, and walk-in refrigerators and combination walk-in, reach-in refrigerators used for the storage and sale of products packaged in bottles, cartons, or containers are exempt from the foregoing restrictions.
When a waste pipe does not link directly to the drainage system, it transfers liquid wastes by discharging into a plumbing fixture, interceptor, or receptacle that is directly connected to the drainage system.
An Air Break is a physical separation that may be as simple as a low input into the indirect waste receptor from the fixture, appliance, or equipment that is indirectly linked to the indirect waste receptor, among other things.
Connections to the drainage system that are made indirectly, such as those found at a clothes washer drain, are authorized by code.
As observed at a lavatory sink drain indirect connection, an air break can be allowed to end below the rim of the receptor when the situation calls for it (connection belongs at the fixture side of the trap).
It is not recommended to connect a dishwasher to the waste side of a garbage disposal system.
Many jurisdictions do not require the use of an air gap device, but they do acknowledge the reasoning that if a sewage line becomes clogged and garbage is backing up, you would not want the dishwasher to get contaminated.
Waste will pour over the rim of the sink if you put the drain line in a loop under the sink as high as feasible. This will prevent the waste from making its way into the dishwasher.
