How To Put A New Septic Tank In A Tight Area? (Solution)

Set it level where it’s going through the wall or under the footing, and from there run with about an 1/8″ per foot of pitch (slope) toward the septic tank. Go further or all the way into the tank if required. If not, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adapter and pipe toward the tank with 3034.

What is a tight tank septic system?

A tight tank is a water-tight tank that receives wastewater flow from the facility (house, business, property, etc.), but does not release any wastewater out of the tank or into the ground. The wastewater is stored in the tank until the liquid reaches an alarm level.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

How deep should a septic tank be in the ground?

The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.

How much does it cost to install a tight tank?

The average tank installation cost is $4,500 to $9,000. Most homeowners pay around $6,100 to install a standard anaerobic system with a 1,000-gallon tank, typically suitable for a three-bedroom household. Prices vary depending on the tank size and materials used.

Should you fill a new septic tank with water?

2 Answers. Yes the system should be filled with water and the installer should have done that. There is a good chance the tanks can float out of the hole if it rains heavy when they are first put in if you do not put water in them.

What to put in septic tank to break down solids?

Yeast helps actively breaks down waste solids when added to your septic system. Flush ½ cup of dry baking yeast down the toilet, the first time. Add ¼ cup of instant yeast every 4 months, after the initial addition.

How far apart are leach lines?

The minimum separation between the bottom of any leaching device and seasonally high groundwater shall be: 5 feet where the leaching device is between 50 and 100 feet from a stream, spring, or other waterbody.

Does a septic tank need to be airtight?

Septic tanks need to be watertight. The riser should be sealed to the top of the tank and the riser cover should be sealed to the riser with butyl rubber or some other flexible sealant. No liquid should enter or leave the tank.

What is an alternative to a leach field?

Sand Filter This is one example of an alternative septic system without a leach field, which makes it compatible with environmentally sensitive areas. In some cases, the treated water can pass directly from the sand filtration system to the soil without needing to flow through more piping to a leach field.

How far below the surface is a septic tank?

Septic tanks are typically rectangular in shape and measure approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground.

How long do septic tanks last?

A septic system’s lifespan should be anywhere from 15 to 40 years. How long the system lasts depends on a number of factors, including construction material, soil acidity, water table, maintenance practices, and several others.

What can you put on top of a septic field?

Put plastic sheets, bark, gravel or other fill over the drainfield. Reshape or fill the ground surface over the drainfield and reserve area. However, just adding topsoil is generally OK if it isn’t more than a couple of inches. Make ponds on or near the septic system and the reserve area.

How to Add to an Existing Septic Tank

The size of your septic tank is often determined by estimating the amount of water used by your property. It is possible, though, that you may need to upgrade your septic tank as you make changes to your property. To accommodate an additional bathroom, for example, modifications to your current septic system may be required. How to Install a New Septic Tank in an Existing Septic Tank Calum Redgrave is the photographer that captured this image. -close/iStock/GettyImages

What Is a Septic Tank?

A septic tank is a compartment beneath the earth through which effluent is channeled. The presence of a sufficiently big septic tank is vital for water safety. A septic tank that is too tiny will not be able to hold the wastewater in place. This retention is critical to the process of purifying the water in order to ensure that it may be safely dispersed into the surrounding earth. Smaller-than-expected septic tanks run the danger of blocking pipes and causing minor floods as well. If you’re planning major home modifications that will have an influence on your household’s water use, you’ll want to take your septic tank into consideration.

Septic Tank Usage When Adding a Bathroom

One of the most common reasons for updating a septic tank is the addition of a bathroom, which is sometimes located in a basement or crawlspace. This increases the value of your home while also allowing you to make greater use of your basement space. You’ll need to connect the excess wastewater to your septic tank in order for it to be properly treated. If you’re adding a basement bathroom that will be connected to a septic tank, you should examine whether your home’s septic lines are sufficiently deep.

You’ll need to think about what kind of toilet you want to put in before you start.

It is critical that you consult with your local government before making any alterations to your septic tank.

Adding a Septic Tank and Connecting to Existing Sewer Lines

The most straightforward method of increasing the capacity of your septic tank while keeping connected to current sewer lines is to simply add another septic tank. This increases the wastewater capacity of your house while also providing your septic system with extra time to process the wastewater before it is drained. For those who are planning to install an additional septic tank, first establish the best location, which should be between your existing tank and your drain field (sometimes called a septic field line).

A hole of appropriate size should be dug with an excavator.

Connect the two septic tanks together using a 4-inch pipe.

Insert the opposite end of the pipe into the outlet hole of your old septic tank once you’ve lowered your new septic tank to the ground.

The pipe should dangle approximately 2 inches over the interiors of the two tanks. Filling the hole surrounding your new septic tank with earth will then be an option for you. A vibrancy soil compactor may be used to determine the compactness of your soil.

Septic Tank Installation and Pricing

To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. Although it is possible to construct a septic tank on your own, we recommend that you hire a professional to do it owing to the amount of skill and specific equipment required.

Who Needs a Septic Tank?

For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.

How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.

Receive Multiple Estimates

Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.

Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit

For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.

Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test.

Plan for Excavation

Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home.

Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected. Adobe Licensed (Adobe Licensed)

The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank

There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.

Percolation Test

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Building Permit Application

A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.

Excavation and Installation

When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.

Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.

Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.

It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land.

Types of Septic Tanks

Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000

More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.

Using Your Septic Tank

It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.

Consequently, there will be no accumulation of solid waste that will leach into the surrounding soil or groundwater. Send an email to our Reviews Team [email protected] if you have any comments or questions regarding this post.

Small Septic System Cost

The cost of installing a modest septic system can range from $2,910 to $18,600 depending on the size of the system. Get quotations from as many as three professionals! Enter your zip code below to get matched with top-rated professionals in your area. A septic system is far superior than an outhouse, whether you’re building a garage apartment or even a cottage off the grid. Due to the availability of more affordable systems, there is no need to purchase more than you require. Costs might vary significantly depending on the size of your tank, the nature of your soil, and the sort of system you choose.

How Much Does a Small Septic Tank System Cost by the Gallon?

A 750-gallon tank can fit one to two bedrooms, which is the smallest capacity you’re likely to find when installing a septic system. You may even go with a 1,000-gallon system, which can manage two to four bedrooms well. Keep in mind that certain towns need a minimum tank size of 1,000 gallons, so be sure to check the regulations in your region before purchasing. The following are some typical prices for septic systems, broken down by tank size:

750 gallons cost between $2,910 and $13,900
1,000 gallons cost between $4,030 and $18,600.

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Small Septic System Yourself?

As much as you may like rolling up your sleeves and getting your hands filthy, this is a job that should be left to the professionals. When it comes to plumbing projects, there are a lot of things that may go wrong, especially when it comes to dealing with human waste. Things may get a little out of hand. That’s all there is to it. Furthermore, many municipalities may demand that a septic tank system be installed by a licensed expert. There’s also the issue of satisfying building code standards as well as passing inspections, which must be addressed.

Rather than putting yourself through the hassle (and probable tragedy), hire a local septic tank installer.

Small Septic System Cost Breakdown

Conventional septic systems will require a tank, plumbing, and a leach (or drain) field in addition to the rest of the system components. Additional costs to consider include excavation, soil testing, and building permits. The following is a breakdown of what you would be expected to pay.

Small Septic Tank

The tank itself will cost you anywhere from $750 and $1,500, depending on its size and configuration. As previously stated, some municipalities need a minimum of 1,000 gallons, so be sure to verify your local regulations. Here are some rough size ranges to get you started:

750 gallons cost between $700 and $1200
1,000 litres cost between $900 and $1500.

Leach Field

After the wastewater has been sorted and processed in the septic tank, it is sent to the aleach field for disposal. Here, it flows through soil, sand, and gravel, where it is naturally cleaned before reaching the groundwater table, where it is collected. Prices for leach fields can vary greatly depending on the kind and size of your septic system, as well as the soil makeup of your property. Here are some preliminary estimations based on the size of the object:

$19,000 for 750 gallons
$810–$19,000 for 1,000 gallons

1,000 gallons cost between $1,080 and $12,000

Excavation

Again, the size of your tank and the nature of the soil will have an impact on your excavation expenditures.

According on the size of your little septic tank, you might expect to spend the following:

Perc Test

A perc test will normally cost between $750 and $1,300 in labor and materials. This test will measure the ground’s ability to absorb and filter water, as well as its ability to retain moisture. You will be required to provide documentation of this evaluation for both new installations and repairs.

Building Permits

Most municipalities will charge a price for a construction permit, which can range from $400 to $2,000 in most cases. The price will vary depending on the restrictions in your location. Anne – Adobe Stock (stock.adobe.com)

How Much Does a Small Septic System Cost by Type?

Concrete septic tanks, polyethylene septic tanks, and fiberglass septic tanks are the three most common forms. Concrete is a typical material that may survive for several decades, while it is prone to cracking and separating during the process. Plastic and fiberglass are more robust, but they are also more prone to damage during the installation process than other materials. Below are some general pricing ranges to keep in mind for each of the options.

750-Gallon Septic Tank System

Concrete costs between $2,860 and $13,900
Plastic/poly costs between $2,660 and $13,900
And fiberglass costs between $3,360 and $13,900.

1,000-Gallon Septic Tank System

$2,860 to $13,900 for concrete, $2,660 to $13,900 for plastic/polyethylene, and $3,360 to $13,900 for fiberglass

How Much Does a Small Septic System Cost by Style?

Traditional septic systems are divided into two categories: anaerobic and aerobic systems. Septic systems that are anaerobic in nature are the most frequent, however aerobic septic systems are significantly more efficient (and costly).

Anaerobic Septic System

A modest anaerobic septic system will cost you between $3,000 and $8,000, depending on its size. It is dependent on anaerobic bacteria, which are microorganisms that do not require oxygen to survive. During their time in the septic tank, these bacteria work to break down waste before it can be further digested in the soil.

Aerobic Septic System

The cost of an aerobic septic system can range from $10,000 to $18,600 dollars. These systems make advantage of aerobic microorganisms, which thrive in the presence of oxygen, to break down waste more effectively. While this system necessitates a larger budget, it is more efficient at breaking down waste in the tank, resulting in lower leach field expenditures.

What Factors Influence the Cost of a Septic Tank System?

The leach field for your septic system has the greatest influence on your entire cost since costs vary greatly depending on the size of the field required and the kind of soil you have. Here’s a list of all the variables that might influence the price of your tiny septic system:

The nature of the soil
The size and kind of the septic tank
The dimensions of the leach field

Expenses for excavation and other types of work in your region Obtaining all of the appropriate building approvals

FAQs About Septic Systems

The cost of having your small septic tank pumped is between $290 and $530 dollars. Prices vary depending on the size of the tank and the amount of time it is used. Get in touch with a septic tank cleaner in your area for an accurate quotation.

How do you know when to pump your septic tank?

It is a frequent misconception concerning septic systems that the tank must be pumped as soon as it “appeals” to be full, despite the fact that wastewater will ultimately drain onto the leach field. Instead, it is preferable to count the number of solids that have collected. An aseptic maintenance expert in your area can perform this test to determine whether or not pumping is required.

How much does it cost to repair a septic tank?

The typical cost of repairing a septic tank is between $500 and $2,600, although prices will vary depending on the extent of the repairs required.

For an exact cost estimate, speak with a septic tank repair specialist in your neighborhood.

Septic Tank Options

Because of the small size of your property, you may believe that your home does not qualify for septic tanks. It is feasible to put a septic tank on a small property, even if the land does not have the necessary size for a traditional drain field to function properly. You may want to investigate these choices for your smaller lot if you do not have access to city water or choose to use a septic tank rather than municipal water. Alternatives to Septic Tanks There are a variety of septic tank systems available in addition to the traditional system.

At that point, the waste water and particles separate, and sludge eventually formed as a result of the separation.

If you don’t have the room for a drain field, your alternatives are restricted to the following:

Treatment with aerobic exercise. This technique makes use of oxygen to expedite the process of breaking down the solid materials. As a result, the water that is discharged by the unit is more purer. Although there is no need for a separate drain field, the system must be examined on a regular basis to ensure that the water released by the system is pure enough to be absorbed directly into the soil. Disinfection using chlorine. This sort of septic system, which is an alternative to oxygen, purifies the water before it is discharged into the soil by using chlorine, which promotes oxidization. Many cities and towns, in fact, employ biofilter systems to clean their drinking water, which is exactly what we’re talking about here. This one-of-a-kind septic system treats water without the need of oxygen or chlorine. As opposed to this, the system is made up of layers of gravel and sand that are alternately placed in an airtight and waterproof container. The system pumps wastewater into the bottom of the tank, and the effluent works its way up through the sand and gravel until it reaches the top of the tank and seeps into the ground.

In order to keep your alternative Septic Tank System running smoothly, The following maintenance instructions should be followed regardless of whether your system is a standard unit or an alternate unit:

Trees are a hindrance to the operation of the system. Planting trees near the tank is discouraged since the roots of the trees can harm the tank or pipelines, compromising the safety of the tank’s functioning. Make an appointment for regular maintenance. In order to ensure optimal functioning and to avoid any risks, it is recommended that a professional examine the tank in accordance with the manufacturer’s guidelines. The benefits of doing so include the ability to prevent minor septic tank issues from becoming major ones, and the ability to identify worn parts before they fail.

Is it a small plot? It’s not an issue. There are several septic tank solutions that will function within the confines of the available space. Consult with a specialist to determine which system is the most appropriate for your needs. To get answers to your questions, get in touch with the Pink Plumber right away. Image courtesy of Flickr OUR EXPERT PLUMBERS ARE AVAILABLE TO HELP YOU.

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. Their treatment of wastewater from household plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, is based on a combination of nature and proven technology. A typical septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, also known as a soil absorption field.The septic tank digests organic matter while separating floatable matter (such as oils and grease) and solids from the wastewater.

Alternative systems use pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent trickling through sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as disease-causing pathogens, nitrogen, and phosphorus.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.

The Guadalupe-Blanco River Authority has built an animated, interactive model of how a residential septic system works, which you can view here.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system.

If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement

A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield

Can You Have a Septic Tank Without a Leach Field at Home?

This is a question that is frequently posed in Northern Indiana. “Can I have a septic tank without a leach field?” the homeowner inquires. During this blog post, we’ll take a deeper look at that question. First and foremost, we must clarify the nature of the question. Interested in learning if you can build a new septic system for a new home that is equipped with only a septic tank and no leach field? If this is the case, the plain and simple response is no. Those codes are written by the Indiana State Department of Health (ISDH), which is in charge of regulating septic systems in the state.

This implies that new house construction must be supplied by an aseptic system, which includes not just a septic tank, but also a system for treating wastewater and releasing the treated water back into the environment.

What about an existing home whose old system has problems, is failing, and needs replaced?

For properties whose septic systems have failed and are in need of repair or replacement, the ISDH has included measures in its codes to address this situation. Wastewater will be treated on-site as long as there is adequate space on the land, taking into consideration any setbacks (50 feet from well, for example). A holding tank may be placed on an existing property if there is inadequate room owing to small lots that were platted many years ago, resulting in an inability to fulfill setbacks, such as 25′ from a body of water, and there are no other choices.

Our area in Northern Indiana is home to a large number of lakes, each of which has a number of small lots marked around its perimeter many years ago, with a number of older homes built on them.

Because of the limited physical lot sizes, it is common that when you remove everything within a 50-foot radius of the well, a 50-foot radius of all surrounding wells, and 25-foot radius of the lake’s border, there is actually no land left to safely treat the wastewater.

Let’s look at the question from an alternative angle…

For example, you can have an ancient farmhouse that was built a hundred years ago, and no one knows where the septic tank is, or if it even has one at all. You may be asking, “where does my wastewater go?,” because the county didn’t retain those types of data for a long time. If this is the case, you might be the owner of a septic tank that does not have a leach field! Many years ago, in the history of mankind.there was a time when builders created houses in the country that were fed by septic tanks, but the wastewater ran directly from the septic tank through a drainage pipe, finally ending up in a stream or drainway.

These systems are no longer lawful, and the state demands that they not be fixed until they are brought up to code. In order to bring a system like this up to code, it will be necessary to include a leach field component that will treat the wastewater before it is released back into the environment.

Call Shankster Bros. today for all your septic system problems and needs!

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a small system that is intended for limited use by two people who do not need to do laundry.

When compared to a standard home septic system, this system uses two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are used in a standard home septic system.

Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be aware that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner could be subject to a fine if the system was discovered in use by a health official.
Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.
It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.

Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks

1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them lighter
2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. As soon as the flanges are in position, tighten them down so they don’t move or shift once they are in place. Advertisement
s3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw and drilling them out. Advertisement

Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground

1 Dig a trench that is 4 ft 26 ft 3 ft (1.22 m 7.92 m 0.91 m) in length and width. Excavator or shovel are both good options for digging a hole in the ground where you wish to put your tank. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth.

Excavators for excavating are often available for hire from a heavy machinery supply company. Look for equipment rentals on the internet

2Place the drum at the end of the trench, with one side hole drilled in it. When you place the drum on the floor, make sure it is level. Check to see sure the drum’s top is at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the surface of the water. 3 Dig a hole that is one foot (30 cm) deeper than the first to accommodate the positioning of the second drum in front of the first. In order to ensure a tight fit and prevent the drum from shifting, make your hole the same diameter as the drum you’re inserting in it. 4 The hole should be leveled with gravel until a 90-degree curve can be made to connect the top drum’s hole on one side to the toilet flange on the other. Check the alignment of the holes in the 90-degree bend between the two drums by dry fitting it between the two drums. If you need to improve the alignment of the pipe line, dig the hole a little deeper. 5 To make the bend, cut 31 2in (8.9 cm) pieces of ABS pipe and adhere them to the bend with epoxy or hot glue. With a hacksaw, cut the ABSpipe parts, also known as nipples. 6 Insert the pieces into the bend and hold them in place using PVC adhesive. Check the fit between the two drums to ensure that they are in alignment. Insert the end of the 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipple into the side hole of the first drum and tighten the nut. 7Glue the end of the 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple into the toilet flange on the second tank, making sure that the nipple on the other end aligns with the hole on the top of the second drum. To hold the bent in place, apply PVC adhesive to the inside of the curve. Don’t be concerned about the link to the first drum just yet

You’ll make that connection later. 8. Glue a Y-bend to a 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple, and then bend the angled piece of the Y-bend at a 45-degree angle. Using your PVC glue, attach a nipple to the end of the Y-bend and let it dry. Assemble the Y-bend and align the angled pipe on it so it meets the incoming waste line, then glue it onto the toilet flange. 9 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipples are cut and glued to one end of the 45-degree bends at the bottom of the lower drum, and they are then inserted into the side of the lower drum. Directional bends are defined as those that are perpendicular to the bottom of the trench at their ends. Advertisement

Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes

Put a stake into the ground and level it with the bottom of each of the 45-degree bends. 2Put a stake into the ground and level it with the top of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what sort of stakes you use since they all work. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the stakes into the ground. Attach a one-inch-wide block to the end of a four-foot-long (1.2-meter-long) level using duct tape. This will assist you in ensuring that you create sloped drain pipes so that your tanks can empty
3Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one

4Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
5Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one. Drive the stake down until it is the same height as the first one using your hammer or mallet
4 Place the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second stake to complete the level without the block. Continue to pound the second stake into the ground until the level is balanced. 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the previous post, or 1 inch (0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm)

5Repeat this method until you have stakes running the whole length of the trench
Continue to place stakes down the rest of the trench every 37 8feet (1.2 m) from the last one, ensuring that the stakes slope away from the drums
6Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes

7Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes The gravel will now slope away from the drums at a rate of 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance
7Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the second drum
8Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the third drum

9Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the fourth drum
10P Insert the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower drum to complete the installation. 9Make certain that the perforations in the pipes are facing down so that liquids may soak back into the earth
8checking the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1 4in (0.64 cm) slope is consistent throughout the length of the pipe. Fill up any gaps in the slope by adding or removing gravel under the pipe. Seal the 45-degree and 90-degree bends that connect the lower and top drums, respectively, with silicone. For the greatest seal possible on your drain pipes, use a two-part epoxy or silicone caulk. For this purpose, consider utilizing flex pipe, which will yield a little bit if the ground changes. Tenth, fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of all the gravel. Place the remaining gravel over the trench and into the bottom drum, covering it completely. 11Lay landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. As a result, the dirt will not be able to seep into the gravel and you will be able to keep proper drainage on your tanks

12Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting it to the original grade. When you have finished filling up the area with your dirt, check to see that the ground is level. 13Fill the upper drum with water, leaving the top pipe from the first tank exposed so that you can readily reach the tanks if you need to drain them later. 14Fill the lower drum with water. Fill the top drum with water and pour it directly down the exposed pipes on the bottom drum. Continue filling the drum until it is completely filled, then secure the top with a cap to keep out the elements. Advertisement

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Question What is considered a low level of use? Low consumption is defined as less than 125 gallons per day. Question Was the ‘y’ elbow on the first tank’s tank for any particular reason? Is it left open or sealed when it has been completed? Isn’t it going to stink if it’s left open? The clean out requires a threaded cap or plug, which is provided. Question What kind of water do you use to fill it? “Fill” is the most important term here. Continue to fill the drum with water until the level does not rise any more

Question Suppose I neglected to attach a slip coupler to the perforated pipe and only had 10 feet of it. Is it still possible to use this? Yes, however you will need to raise the depth of the field in order to get the same cubic feet of capacity
Nevertheless Question What is the best way to find out if something is legal in my state? This is a quick and easy approach that is unlikely to be appropriate for long-term usage in the majority of states. It is possible that the property owner and/or the installation will be penalized if this is uncovered. Question Is it possible to utilize two or three 275-gallon water totes instead, or a water tote and barrel combination? It doesn’t matter either direction you go. It’s best to utilize a single tote and a barrel as a digestion tank and a distribution box if you have only one tote. Question What is the purpose of filling the higher barrel with water? You fill the top barrel with water so that when sewage waste is introduced into the barrel, it flows into a sufficient amount of water to initiate the anaerobic digestion process. Question What is the best way to clean up this system? If there is enough bacteria in it, it will clean itself with minimal effort. If it starts to fill up, you may call a septic service to have it emptied
If it doesn’t, you can do it yourself. Question What is the correct grade slope of the drain field for every ten feet of length of the drain field? It is possible for the field’s bottom to be level. When running away from the drums, the pipe system should be sloped at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches every 10 feet. Question Is it possible for this system to freeze in the winter? And might I use antifreeze in the mix as well? Antifreeze will destroy the beneficial bacteria that are required for the process to function properly. The process is biological, and it will generate some of its own heat as part of the process. It’s always possible to dig a little deeper to gain a little extra insulation above it.

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The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line
Instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connection. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than the top. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is several inches deeper towards the bottom. Solids either float or sink depending on their density. They don’t seem to congregate in the middle. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank, and the solids are never seen again. The same procedure should be followed for each of the drainage pipes that originate from the second barrel. Just to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global drain field, the waste is dumped into the first tank, with the solids settling to the bottom of the first tank. Whenever the liquid level exceeds the outfall to the second tank, it is drained into the tank below it. If there are any solids present, they will sink to the bottom. Whenever the liquid from the second tank reaches one of the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion. Over time, the vast majority of the solids will liquefy and disperse. Solids may accumulate at the top of the tank after many years, necessitating the removal of the solids. Thirty percent of the waste is absorbed into the earth, with the remaining seventy percent being dissipated by sunshine. It is important not to compress the soil since this would interfere with the evaporation process

The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank after it is entirely filled with solids
The depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one depicted, you will need to dig the trench deeper or shallower to suit the new line depth or height. It’s not that difficult to find out. In the event that you have a septic system that is too shallow, it may be more susceptible to damage. After a period, you may discover that the ground has sunk below the trench’s location. Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it
It is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipe. In addition, you must have the necessary equipment to dig the trench (or be willing to put in a lot of effort).

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Warnings

This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.

Things You’ll Need

3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscape fabric
9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums

10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)
4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend

3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)
2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers

And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
Duct tape
4 in (10 cm) ABS removable cap
1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block

About This Article

wikiHow Staff Writer contributed to this article. This article was written in part by members of the wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled staff of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is regularly monitored by wikiHow’sContent Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high quality standards. A total of 2,326,101 people have looked at this article. Co-authors:53 The most recent update was made on January 15, 2022.

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Probably one of the last things on your mind when you are constructing a new house is the location of your septic system.

After all, shopping for tanks isn’t nearly as entertaining as shopping for cabinetry, appliances, and floor coverings. Although you would never brag about it, your guests will be aware if you do not have the proper septic tank placed in your home or business.

septic tanks for new home construction

The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. A typical three-bedroom home with less than 2500 square feet will require a 1000 gallon septic tank.Of course, the size of the tank will depend on the number of people living in the home and the amount of water and waste that will be put into the system.A properly sized septic tank should hold waste for three years before it needs to be pumped and cleaned.

planning your drainfield

Here are some helpful hints for deciding where to locate your drainfield when you’re designing it.

Vehicles should not be allowed on or around the drainfield. Planting trees or anything else with deep roots along the bed of the drain field is not recommended. The roots jam the pipes on a regular basis. Downspouts and sump pumps should not be discharged into the septic system. Do not tamper with or change natural drainage features without first researching and evaluating the consequences of your actions on the drainage field. Do not construct extensions on top of the drain field or cover it with concrete, asphalt, or other materials. Create easy access to your septic tank cover by placing it near the entrance. Easy maintenance and inspection are made possible as a result. To aid with evaporation and erosion prevention, plant grass in the area.

a home addition may mean a new septic tank

Do not make any big additions or renovations to your house or company until you have had the size of your septic system assessed. If you want to build a house addition that is more than 10% of your total floor space, increases the number of rooms, or necessitates the installation of new plumbing, you will almost certainly need to expand your septic tank.

For a home addition that will result in increased use of your septic system, your local health department will require a letter from you that has been signed and authorized by a representative of your local health department confirming that your new septic system is capable of accommodating the increase in wastewater. It is not recommended that you replace your septic system without the assistance of a certified and competent contractor.

how to maintain your new septic system

Septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services are provided by Norway Septic Inc., a service-oriented company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to households and business owners throughout the Michiana area. “We take great delight in finishing the task that others have left unfinished.” “They pump, we clean!” says our company’s motto. Septic systems are something we are familiar with from our 40 years of expertise, and we propose the following:

Make use of the services of a qualified specialist to develop a maintenance strategy. Make an appointment for an annual examination of your septic system. Utilize the services of an effluent filter to limit the amount of particles that exit the tank, so extending the life of your septic system. Waste items should be disposed of properly, and energy-efficient appliances should be used. Make sure you get your septic system professionally cleaned every 2 to 3 years, or more frequently if necessary, by an experienced and qualified expert
If you have any reason to believe that there is an issue with your system, contact a professional. It is far preferable to catch anything early than than pay the price later. Maintain a record of all septic system repairs, inspections, and other activities

common septic questions

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions by our septic customers.

How do I determine the size of my septic tank?

If you have a rectangular tank, multiply the inner height by the length to get the overall height of the tank. In order to find out how many gallons your septic tank contains, divide the number by.1337.1337

How many bedrooms does a 500-gallon septic tank support?

The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size.

How deep in the ground is a septic tank?

Your septic system is normally buried between four inches and four feet underground, depending on the climate.

Information for Landowners and Designers

Water/wastewater permits (WW Permits) are issued by the Regional Office Program for soil-based wastewater systems with daily flows of less than 6500 gallons, for potable water supplies (water supplies that are not public water supplies), and for municipal water and sewer connections, among other things. Permitting personnel are stationed in five Regional Offices around the state. Staff members are also responsible for administering the licensed designer program and reviewing innovative and alternative solutions for possible implementation in Vermont.

The regional offices map contains information on each region’s office, program, and contact information. Information on the Licensed Designer Program.

This is a simplified overview of how a septic system works.

Water drains from your home through a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank, where it remains. The septic tank is a subterranean, water-tight container that is often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, depending on the manufacturer. A sludge separator’s duty is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to settle to the bottom (forming sludge), while oil and grease float to the top (as scum). Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet.

It is possible for the drainfield to flood if it is overwhelmed with too much liquid.
Finally, the wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed from the environment by hazardous bacteria, viruses, and nutrient concentrations.
A weeklong event held every year, SepticSmart Week is dedicated to educating homeowners and communities on the correct care and management of their sewage systems in order to safeguard public health, the environment, and the value of their homes.
Flushing The Do’s and Don’ts of Imagery Is your wastewater treatment system (septic system) being exploited by guests or clients?

For those who own a home, a campground, or a business where guests who are unaware that wastewater systems are not designed to handle so-called “flushable” wipes, paper towels, diapers, and personal hygiene products will be visiting, these signs will convey a clear message about which items should be flushed and which items should be thrown away.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Installing Your New Septic System

Although septic tank installation in San Francisco is not always a task that can be completed by one person without the assistance of a team of specialists, you may be curious about how the procedure is carried out. First and first, if you still have an old system, you’ll need to get rid of it. Following the excavation, you may proceed to the installation of the plumbing and drainage systems, before filling up the space and testing the system to ensure that it is in proper working order, as needed.

Excavation and removal of waste In the event that you’ve never had a septic tank before, you won’t have to bother about digging up the old tank in order to install the new tank.

Sometimes, additional excavation may be required in order for your brand-new septic tank and the pipes that will be connected to it to be properly installed and function properly.

Plumbing and drainage systems are being installed.

Plumbing and drainage pipes are required for the septic tank in order for it to accept waste from the residence while also filtering it out into the drainage field.

The System is being filled and examined.

This last inspection is critical because it provides the specialists with an opportunity to identify any little issues that may have gone unnoticed previously, allowing your system to get off to a good start.