Weeping Norway Spruce Mn How Far From Septic Tank? (Perfect answer)

  • Keep such trees at least 100 feet from the nearest septic field component. Watch out: even when trees are listed as OK to plant near a drainfield that NEVER means planting right atop the drainfield, and some of these trees must be kept considerable distance away.

How far should a tree be planted from a septic tank?

The general rule is that such a tree needs to be at least as many feet away from your septic drain field as it is tall. So a specimen 50 feet tall at maturity should stand at least 50 feet away.

What kind of trees can you plant near a septic tank?

Here are some example of trees and shrubs with shallow root systems that are safe to plant near your septic system:

  • Japanese Maple Trees.
  • Holly Shrubs.
  • Dogwood Trees.
  • Cherry Trees.
  • Boxwood Shrubs.
  • Eastern Redbud Trees.
  • Azalea Shrubs.

Can you plant a weeping willow near a septic tank?

Plant weeping willow trees at least 50 feet away from the septic system, or, if you are putting in a new septic system, make sure it is at least 50 feet away from any willow trees. This 50 feet is a minimum spacing and even with this distance you could run into problems as the tree matures.

Are weeping willows bad for septic systems?

Willow Trees Larger trees such as Willows are on the constant look out for moisture. Many septic tanks are only covered by two feet of soil, which is nothing to the roots of a Willow. Its roots may easily break into and damage your septic tank.

How close can you build next to a septic tank?

– A full foundation must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 20 feet from the leaching area. – A slab foundation such as a garage must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area.

How close to a septic tank can I build a deck?

It is usually not a good idea to build a deck near or on top of a septic tank. Most zoning ordinances will require that you maintain at least a 5′ setback from an underground septic system.

How far should a tree be planted from a sewer line?

Trees should be located more than 10 feet from sewer lines to minimize root intrusion.

How far should you plant a weeping willow from a septic tank?

Plant weeping willow trees at least 50 feet away from the septic system, or, if you are putting in a new septic system, make sure it is at least 50 feet away from any willow trees. This 50 feet is a minimum spacing and even with this distance you could run into problems as the tree matures.

What can you plant over a septic tank?

Herbaceous plants, such as annuals, perennials, bulbs and ornamental grasses are generally the best choices for use on a septic drain field. Ornamental grasses also offer the advantages of having a fibrous root system that holds soil in place, and providing year-round cover.

Can tree roots damage septic tank?

Trees can cause significant damage to a septic system. Over time, tree roots can wreak havoc on the pipes and drain lines that lead out to the sewer or to your privately installed septic system. As a result, the roots can grow into the walls of the pipes and block the ability to drain water and waste.

Can I plant a palm tree near my septic tank?

Only a few trees are considered safe for septic systems, and they are deep-rooted trees like cherry, crabapple, dogwood, oak, olive, palm trees and pine trees.

How close can a willow tree be to a house?

For example, a mature willow tree will draw between 50 and 100 gallons of water per day from the ground around it, having a minimum recommended distance from buildings of 18m, but a birch tree, having a far smaller root system, may be planted far closer to a property without danger of damage. Is there a rule of thumb?

How far should I plant a weeping willow from the house?

How far should I plant one from my house? Make sure to plant your weeping willow at least 50 feet away from your house.

How far do willow roots spread?

Growth Habit Weeping willows typically produce foliage that is between 45 and 70 feet wide at maturity with roots that can spread approximately 100 feet from the center of the trunk of large specimens.

How do you get rid of weeping willow roots?

Use a paintbrush to cover a newly cut stump with glyphosate. Repeat as recommended by the manufacturer to ensure that the herbicide reaches through the stump and into the roots. This step replaces the need for a stump grinder and has greater success in accessing and killing the willow’s widespread root system.

Best native conifer 15 feet from end of septic?

I’d want to plant a single-leader conifer that’s native to the area 15 feet from the end of my drain field. The drain field is barely ten years old, and it has excellent drainage due to the presence of crystalline bedrock. Even though root incursion is still a concern for me, the drainage on this field is superb, and the field’s southern end is usually bone dry (in the good way, not broken). I’m not concerned about a small to medium-sized conifer that’s approximately 15 feet away. However, there is a rock wall and a little place just beyond it where I’d want to plant a vertically rising single leader native conifer to complement the existing landscape.

As a result, I’m investigating Canaan Fir as a possible replacement because they grow slowly and appear to be the smallest of the natural forest evergreens.

Without the need for any septic field lectures (I’ve already completed my homework), any recommendations you could provide would be highly welcomed.

The acidic and rocky soil of northern New Jersey’s oak-maple forest is typical of the region.

What Trees Are Safe to Plant Near a Septic Tank?

Davey utilizes cookies to make your experience as pleasant as possible by giving us with analytics that allow us to provide you with the most relevant information possible. By continuing to use this site, you acknowledge and agree to our use of third-party cookies. For additional information, please see ourPrivacy Policy. Subscribe to “The Sapling” on the Davey Blog for the most up-to-date information on how to keep your outside area in peak condition throughout the year. Septic systems, which have thick pipes that go deep throughout the yard, raise a lot of problems regarding what you may plant and where you can put it.

Landscaping Ideas Around Septic Tanks: What to Plant Over a Septic Tank

Regardless of what you’ve heard, it’s not impossible that this will happen! It is true that the correct type of plant or tree may assist the system in keeping water flowing smoothly and preventing erosion. Plants that function best have soft, green stems and are well-adapted to the amount of rain that falls in your location. In other words, we’re talking about annual plants versus perennial plants against wildflowers versus bulbs versus grass. Trees may also be used, as long as you select one with shallow roots and place it a long distance away from the tank.

Can I plant oak trees, Japanese maples or fruit trees near a septic tank?

It is possible, but it is really difficult! The roots of trees are wired to follow the flow of water. As a result, if you plant trees or bushes too close to your irrigation system, they may pry into the pipes and block them, causing harm to the system and the water flow in your home. When it comes to landscaping near the tank, the plants we described above are typically a better choice. In fact, you may cover the system with flowers like those (or even grass) to disguise the system’s presence.

Thus, white oaks and crabapples are both good choices for landscaping.

Maple trees are infamous for blocking drains and sewer lines. Other types of fruit trees are also not a suitable match for this kind. Biological or viral contamination of any plants grown in close proximity to your sewage tank may be a concern. Consider the implications of this.

What trees are safe to plant near a septic system?

Getting back to the original reader who sparked this discussion: because of their shallow roots, skyrocket junipers may be planted in a variety of locations. However, there is a caveat to this, as well as to all of the other options listed below. If possible, place the tree as far away from the system as the tree will be when it is completely matured. Consequently, while skyrocket junipers normally grow to be 20 feet tall, it is recommended that they be planted at least 20 feet away from the system.

  1. In zones 3-8, hemlock grows to be a beautiful evergreen that may reach heights of up to 80 feet. (Zones 3-8): An evergreen with wonderfully colored needles that may grow to be 80 feet tall
  2. It can be found in zones 3-8. Boxwood shrub (zones 4-9): An evergreen that is commonly used for hedges and grows to be around 10 feet tall
  3. It is a good choice for small gardens. Dogwood (hardiness zones 5-8): A spring-flowering tree that normally develops to be around 30 feet tall
  4. It blooms in the spring. Stunning blooming trees that grow between 30 and 50 feet tall in zones 5-8, ornamental cherries are a must-have for any garden. An added bonus is that there are several kinds and cultivars to pick from. In zones 5-9. American holly (Acer rubrum): An evergreen with vivid flashes of berries that often grows to reach around 50 feet tall
  5. It is a multi-stemmed palm that develops to be around 6 feet tall in zones 5b-11. The lady palm (zones 8-11) is a distinctive palm that may be grown to seem like a shrub and can grow to be around 10 feet tall. The pygmy date palm (zones 9-11) is a pint-sized palm that grows to approximately 12 feet tall and is extremely easy to grow.

Want a local arborist to plant your tree to keep your septic system safe? Start here.

The Spruce / written and directed by David Beaulieu As a result of the similarity between the leaves of the Ginkgo biloba and that of the maidenhair fern, this magnificent tree is frequently referred to as the “maidenhair tree.” It has a sophisticated ring to it, don’t you think? However, there is a problem: this young lady is a slobbering jerk. You will recall a crucial detail if you refer to the trees by their popular name, “maidenhair trees.” It is primarily the girl who is a tad disorganized.

It is possible to differentiate the male gingko tree by the little cone-like structure that arises at the location where flowers grow, right above the leaves, on the tree’s trunk.

Female trees may not even be available for purchase from reputable garden centers.

Just be sure to stay away from the female plants.

Weeping Norway Spruce (Picea abies ‘Pendula’) at Gertens

The shop will not function properly if cookies are deactivated on your computer or device. 6 feet15 feet3 inches Spruce adularia (Norwegian Spruce) The foliage of the weeping Norway Spruce is green in the winter and becomes lime green in the spring. Throughout the winter, the needles retain their green color. Neither the blooms nor the fruit are very attractive in terms of ornamentation. The Weeping Norway Spruce is a multi-stemmed evergreen shrub with a rounded appearance with elegantly weeping branches.

Its delicate texture distinguishes it from other landscape plants with less refined leaf due to its comparatively fine texture.

When pruning is required, it is advisable to simply prune back the new growth of the current season, rather than removing any dieback that may have occurred previously.

Deer aren’t especially fond of this plant, and they’ll typically ignore it in favor of more appetizing goodies. There are no notable negative features associated with it. The use of weeping Norway Spruce in the landscape is advised for the following applications:

Norway is in mourning. When fully grown, the spruce will reach a height of around 6 feet and a spread of 15 feet. It has a low canopy and should not be planted near power lines because of its low canopy. Under optimal conditions, it may survive for up to 60 years or more. It grows at a leisurely rate, and its lifespan can be as long as 60 years. This shrub should only be planted in areas with direct sun exposure. However, it will not tolerate standing water and will perform best in moderate to equally damp circumstances.

It is extremely tolerant of urban pollutants and will even grow in urban areas with high levels of pollution.

Sizes and availability are subject to change.

Specifics should be confirmed with the shop in question.

Septic Tank Care: Which Trees to Plant Near Your Septic System

The addition of trees, bushes, and other plant life may improve the overall look of any landscape, but it is important to exercise caution when planting anything near a septic system. In our last article, we discussed which portions of your septic system are most sensitive to tree-root damage, as well as how far away you should place your trees from the septic system’s perimeter. The moment has come to take a look if you haven’t already done so. The trees, shrubs, and other plants that are safe to plant near your sewage system and the trees and shrubs that you should avoid growing anywhere near your septic system will be discussed today in detail.

Why might it be beneficial to plant vegetation near or over your leach field?

Several homeowners have become so anxious about the prospect of planting trees, bushes, or anything else in their leach field that they avoid doing it entirely. Although it may seem counter-intuitive, growing the appropriate sort of plants may be good to the health of your septic system. This is due to the fact that plants aid in the prevention of erosion by eliminating excess moisture from your leach field.

Which plants are safe to place near or over your leach field?

Planting plants with shallow root systems, such as grasses, annuals, and perennials, is your best hope for preventing soil erosion. Spring bulbs, wild violets, hollyhocks, bee balm, and deer-resistant perennials are all excellent alternatives for planting in the early spring. When it comes to planting trees and shrubs, on the other hand, you need to be a little more cautious. Planting trees and shrubs with shallow root systems near your septic system is quite safe. Here are a few examples of such plants:

  • Japanese Maple Trees, Holly Shrubs, Dogwood Trees, Cherry Trees, Boxwood Shrubs, Eastern Redbud Trees, Azalea Shrubs, and other ornamental plants
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Keep in mind that you should avoid planting any plants near your septic system if you intend to eat the produce from it. It is possible that you may have better development, but none of the fruits or vegetables that are grown will be safe to consume.

What plants should you avoid placing near your leach field?

As a general guideline, you should avoid planting any trees or shrubs that are known to develop quickly and become enormous, as well as those that are known to actively seek out water sources. Other trees are more picky about the water sources they will seek out than others, and some species, such as weeping willow trees, will go for the water in the pipes that go through the leach field and into the surrounding fields.

In the following list, you will find some examples of trees and plants that you should avoid planting in or near your leach field.

  • The following plants are included: Japanese Willow Shrubs, Ash and Birch trees, Pussy Willow Shrubs, Aspen trees, Tulip trees, Maple trees, Beeches, and other similar plants.

As we discussed in our last article, any trees or bushes that you plant should be placed as far away from your septic system as possible, regardless of how large they are. For example, a tree that grows to be 30 feet tall will need to be placed at least 30 feet away from your septic system in order to be effective. Our objective at Septic Remedies is to serve as your one-stop shop for all of your septic tank needs. Please contact us or visit our website for additional information on how to properly maintain your septic system.

Trees for wet areas and poorly drained soils

After receiving the following question from Aubrey, who lives in the Denver, Colorado region, I’d like to discuss about how to choose trees for rainy environments. In our yard, at the bottom of a little slope, there is an area that we use for gardening. It has a tendency to remain damp or wet. It’s also made of clay. What kind of tree would you recommend for that particular location? I started by looking up what plant hardiness zone Aubrey was in. I discovered that she was in Zone 5. It is located in climate zone 5b, which means that its winters may anticipate to be in the -10 to -15 degree range (F).

As a result, her scenario is an example of where the specific location (wet) differs from what you would anticipate in the general vicinity (dry).

Let’s get this out of the way first.

All of these evergreens like the warmth of the sun.

Evergreen Trees for Wet Areas

Common name Latin name Hardiness
White Cedar Chamacyparis thyoides Zones 4-9
White Spruce Picea glauca Zones 2-6
Black Spruce Picea mariana Zones 3-5
Red Spruce Picea rubra Zones 3-5

Deciduous Trees for Wet Areas

Deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall) provide a greater variety of options for moist locations than evergreen trees. When selecting among these trees, the pH of the soil should be taken into consideration to assist limit down your selection. I’ve divided the following trees into groups based on what pH of soil they prefer. A more acidic soil is preferred by most trees, therefore you may select one of the trees from the list of trees for alkaline soils if your soil is neutral or acidic.

Trees for Wet Areas with alkaline soils (pH7.5)

Latin name Common name Hardiness
Catalpa speciosa Northern Catalpa Zones 4 – 8
Gleditsia triacanthos var. inermis Thornless Honeylocusts Zones 4 – 8
Phellodendron amurense ‘Macho’ Amur Corktree ‘Macho’or other male trees Zones 3 – 7
Quercus macrocarpa Bur Oak Zones 3 – 8
Ulmus ‘Frontier’ Hybrid Elm, i.e. Frontier Zones 5 – 8
Ulmus Americana‘Valley Forge’ Valley Forge American Elm Zones 5 – 9

Trees for wet area that need Neutral soils (pH7.5)

All of the trees in the preceding list, plus the following:

Latin name Common name Hardiness
Metasequoia glyptostroboides Dawn Redwood Zones 4 – 8
Nyssa sylvatica Black Tupelo Zones 4 – 9
Quercus bicolor Swamp White Oak Zones 4 – 8
Taxodium distichum Common Baldcypress Zones 4 – 11

Trees for wet area that need Acidic soils (pH 7.0)

All of the trees in the preceding two lists, as well as the following:

Latin name Common name Hardiness
Acer rubrum Red Sunset®, ‘Bowhall’ red maple Zones 3 – 9
Betula nigra‘Cully’‘BNMTF’ Heritage™Dura-Heat™ River Birch Zones 4 – 9
Quercus palustris Pin Oak Zones 4 – 8

Two of the best choices for wet soils

These two trees are among the most tolerant to damp soils of any of the species. Also distinguishing them is the fact that they are deciduous conifers that make excellent landscaping trees. The Bald Cypress and the Dawn Redwood are the two trees in question. Bald Cypress is a kind of tree found in the United States. Tie Guy IIviaphotopincc is credited with this photograph. Do you believe this Bald Cypress can withstand damp soil? Credit: Photo courtesy of Lee Cannon/Photopincc The Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) is undoubtedly one of the greatest trees for damp environments because of its ability to tolerate high humidity.

It can grow to be 50-70 feet tall and 20-30 feet broad, with a spread of 50-70 feet.

As soon as you plant this tree, you may expect to hear from your neighbors that your pine tree is dying.

But it loses its “needles” every year in the fall, just after they acquire a beautiful russet color, which is a sign of maturity. This should be the first tree you consider if your soil is extremely damp and you want a giant shade tree. It is also the most difficult to grow.

Plant a Dawn Redwood and you get to tell a cool story that makes you look smart!

The Dawn redwood is an unusual tree, not just because it is one of the few conifers that loses its leaves (needles), but also because its history is unusual. Several million years ago, the Dawn Redwood flourished all across the planet, including North America, thanks to a favorable climate. The fossil record provides evidence of their existence. A Japanese botanist published the first description of the fossilized remains of this rare tree in the early 1940s. A Chinese forester discovered a deciduous conifer that he believed to be a Chinese swamp cypress not far away and not long after that.

  • He took several samples, which he later forwarded to the National Central University in Beijing.
  • New fossil specimens were acquired, and these were finally linked to the previously described fossils in the collection.
  • You may now purchase these antique trees from your local nursery if you live in a rural area.
  • If you don’t have a lot of space, a dwarf cultivar with a slower growth rate, such as ‘Ogon,’ would be a preferable alternative.

Or forget the story and be even smarter and plant a Swamp White Oak

If you prefer a tree that contributes significantly more to the ecosystem (and I mean significantly more) than the Dawn Redwood, you should consider the Swamp White Oak (Quercusbicolor). Yes, it prefers moist environments; after all, its common name contains the word “swamp.” It is an excellent shade tree for a variety of locations, including dry ones, in addition to moist ones. It, on the other hand, does not enjoy alkaline soil. Apart from being quite versatile, it is also a good tree for the environment, particularly if you reside in one of the areas where it is native, which ranges from the Midwest to Eastern seaboard.

For additional information on this wonderful tree, please see my blog entry onSelecting trees for carbon sequestration and wildlife assistance.

Swamp White Oak (Quercus spp) (Quercus bicolor) Willow, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons This list contains some of the trees that are the most tolerant to damp soil.

Please keep in mind that I updated the original post on December 3, 2018.

Along the way, he has worked as a horticultural and aesthetic pruner at a top-quality Japanese Garden, as well as a freelance garden consultant, Risk Management Consultant, Insurance Safety inspector, and Ice Cream Truck driver (yes, that was me spinning “And Justice for All”).

10 Trees You Should Never Plant in Your Garden

Trees are a beautiful feature to any yard or garden. They may be used to provide shade, seclusion, and aesthetic appeal wherever they are planted. Fruit-bearing plants that are grown in the correct conditions can potentially provide a rapid supply of sustenance. Having beautiful trees planted near your home is something that everyone can benefit from. Besides humans, birds and other creatures may take refuge in them as well.

How Certain Trees Can Harm Your Garden

In spite of the fact that trees are a wonderful idea in general, they should not be planted in haste. To ensure that your tree thrives and that unanticipated repercussions are minimized, it is necessary to do thorough planning and preparation. As a matter of fact, there are several trees that you should reconsider planting in your garden because of the following reasons:

  • The tree’s leaves are a shambles. Trees lose their leaves and bark of their own will. Trees, on the other hand, can drop a variety of items in addition to these. Furthermore, they can lose fruits, berries, and seed pods, which can result in a massive mess in your yard every year. Raking and cleaning them may be time-consuming and stressful, therefore it is better to avoid having dirty trees in the first place. Pests and illnesses are a threat to the tree’s health. The fact that certain trees are more sensitive to pests and diseases than others should come as no surprise. It is possible that planting them in your garden would expose other plants to these pests and illnesses. The tree is frail and susceptible to being damaged. Some trees are naturally fragile, making them more susceptible to breaking under the weight of heavy snow or severe winds. Branches that fall can cause harm to things underneath them, as well as injury to individuals who are trapped beneath them. The tree roots have strong water-seeking characteristics. Tree roots are frequently cited as one of the most significant sources of plumbing problems. “Thirsty” trees will seek out any source of water they can find, eventually making their way into your pipes and septic tanks to breed. Depending on the circumstances, you may be required to spend a large amount of money to have the roots removed and your fixtures restored. The tree provides a lot of shade. However, shadow is beneficial to both humans and some plants. In contrast, trees with an excessively dense canopy can prevent sunlight from reaching grass and other plants growing in their shade. Allergies to the species are possible. Some plants generate enormous amounts of pollen, which can worsen allergies in people who are sensitive to it. Those who are allergic to pollen should keep flowering plants out of their gardens in the spring to avoid allergic responses. Some trees have an impact on the soil. Certain trees have the potential to have an influence on the soil. A water-hungry tree, for example, will prohibit others from accessing the resource they require for their own survival. Some trees, such as pine trees and black walnuts, can cause the soil to become acidic or poisonous, causing other plants to die in their immediate vicinity.

Trees to Avoid

As you plan your tree planting, keep these less-than-desirable tree kinds in mind as you go. Some trees should not be planted on your land, and the following are examples. 1.Red Oak (Quercus rubra) The red oak tree is a tangled mess. In the autumn, they shed a lot of huge leaves and acorns. If you park your automobile beneath the shade of a tree, acorns dropping from a high enough limb might cause a minor scratch in the paintwork of your vehicle. Catkins, which are little clusters of pollen-bearing flowers, are also shed in large quantities by red oaks.

  1. 2.Sweetgum Trees are a kind of tree that is native to the United States.
  2. The tree was given its name because of its untidy seed pods, which are referred to as “gumballs.” The seedpods of this species are spherical, stiff, and spiky.
  3. Because of its propensity to grow swiftly while still providing shade, the Bradford pear is particularly popular with developers.
  4. Bradford pear, on the other hand, is recognized for having exceptionally delicate branches.
  5. Additionally, the gorgeous blossoms of this species yield fragrant flowers.
  6. 4.Lombardy PoplarLombardy Poplar is a fast-growing tree that may be used as a windbreaker in a variety of situations.
  7. Unfortunately, the Lombardy poplar is also subject to a variety of pests and diseases, which may quickly transform these gorgeous trees into an eyesore in a short amount of time if not properly cared for.

5.Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo biloba) Ginkgo trees are gorgeous, durable in a variety of climes, and generally a good choice for gardens – as long as you don’t plant any female ginkgo trees, of course!

In certain locations, it is referred to as a “trash tree” because of its abundance of rubbish.

Unfortunately, there is a price to pay for this.

It loses its bark on a seasonal basis, and its huge, sticky branches are notorious for breaking off and dropping to the ground unexpectedly.

7.Mulberry Mulberries make very wonderful shade trees.

It also contains shallow but vigorous roots that have the potential to break pavements and upend landscape fixtures, among other things.

Its male form releases pollen, which can cause allergic reactions in certain people.

Willows are also thirsty when it comes to water.

The tree has a somewhat limited lifetime as well, lasting just approximately 30 years.

Silver Maple (number 9) Silver maple is a huge, fast-growing tree that produces a lot of shade in a small area.

Its shallow root system also has a tendency to seek for damp places, such as pipelines and sewers, causing significant damage to your yard and infrastructure in the process.

But that’s pretty much all for this particular tree.

It’s possible that it’s one of the worst trees you could ever plant on your land.

When selecting a tree for your backyard, it is important to consider more than only its shape and look, but also its entire characteristics.

A tree is an investment, and you should avoid putting yourself in danger just because you choose the wrong tree species to plant.

Call us at 1-877-775-7444, which is a toll-free number. The opportunity to solve your tree problems and make your canopy attractive, healthy, and safe is something we look forward to! On the 30th of October, 2020/Tips

The Best Trees to Plant in Tennessee

For those of us who live in the Southeast, trees are wonderful because they clean the air and make a statement in your yard. Some trees give shade from the strong heat of summer, while others add a splash of color to the dismal winter landscape. We’ll go through some of the greatest shade and evergreen trees to plant in your Tennessee yard in the sections that follow this.

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The Best Shade Trees to Plant in TN

Choosing a shade tree may be your best option if you have a limited amount of space in your yard and are seeking for the ideal tree for the task at hand. A well-placed shade tree may reduce the temperature of your outdoor space by 10-15 degrees. Heat may be distinguished into two categories: bearable heat and intolerable heat. You may use this list to help you choose which kind of shade trees are the most effective in our location.

Bald Cypress

The bald cypress adds a touch of elegance to any landscaping project. It grows in a natural conical shape with horizontal branches, reaching a height of 50 to 70 feet and a spread of around 30 feet. It has a natural conical shape with a 30-foot spread. As a moderate growth (13–24′′ each year), the bald cypress requires plenty of space to stretch its wings and flourish.

Weeping Willow

Weeping willows are among the most majestic trees you will ever see, and they are found around the world. The weeping willow may grow to a height of 30-40 feet and a spread of 35-40 feet, depending on the variety. Its broad, drooping branches provide a canopy of shade at all hours of the day and night. For those who have a larger yard, this tree is an excellent choice to plant. Avoid planting this tree too close to your home, pool or septic tank or any other structures since its roots can cause significant harm.


When completely mature, this colossal tree may reach heights of up to 100 feet in height. A profusion of animals is attracted to the tree by its red flowers that bloom in the spring and fruit that is produced in the summer and fall. The sycamore is a fast-growing tree, with annual growth rates of up to 2 feet! Because of its height and rapid growth rate, the sycamore should be planted in a location where it will not compete with other trees for sunlight. It may grow higher than other trees and block out all but the most direct sunlight.

Red Maple Red

Despite the fact that red maples have fewer leaves than other maples, they are a thick and full tree that can compete with the best when it comes to providing shade. The red maple, which may grow to reach 65 feet tall when completely mature, is a beautiful addition to any yard and gives year-round beauty. In the fall, they put on a dazzling display of rich and vibrant reds, which is how the name came to be given.

Sugar Maple

The sugar maple, which is the most widely cultivated member of the maple family, is the most common. Aside from generating delicious maple syrup, sugar maples are also one of the greatest and easiest shade trees to grow because of their low maintenance requirements.

As a mature tree, sugar maples may grow to be 80 feet or more tall and give up to 60 feet of shade, making them an excellent choice for your deck or patio area. With their vivid yellow, red, and orange colours, they will take your breath away during the fall season.

The Best Evergreen Trees to Plant in TN

Fall weather is rapidly coming, and the deciduous trees will soon be shedding their leaves for the remainder of the year. When you see all of those naked plants, it’s hard not to want some greenery. Homeowners enjoy including evergreen trees and bushes in their landscapes so that they may scratch that itching itch all year long. If you’re considering about adding an evergreen plant to your yard, here are a few suggestions for ones that thrive in our climate.

Deodar Cedar

The name of this tree, which is native to the Himalayas and means “timber of the gods” in Sanskrit, originates from the expression “timber of the gods.” When it reaches maturity, it should attain heights of 40-70 feet and a spread of 20-40 feet, making it an excellent choice for the hardiness zones present in Tennessee. Deodar cedars grow at a reasonable rate, gaining between 13 and 24 inches each year. Make sure to plant this tree in a location where it will receive direct sunlight throughout the day—at least six hours every day.

It is drought tolerant to a certain extent, but if the weather grows drier in the summer, you should assist it by providing it with some additional water.

Deodars are good nesting trees for birds, particularly woodpeckers, and they are found in many parts of the world.

Their hue is really stunning, and it can range from bluish-green to silvery in appearance.

Arizona Cypress

You would assume from the name that Arizona Cypress is a kind of tree that grows in the southwestern states of the United States. When fully grown, it will reach a height of 40-50 feet and a width of 25-30 feet at maturity. It grows at a moderate rate, gaining 13-24 inches each year, similar to the Deodar cedar. It requires 6 hours of unfiltered sunlight each day and thrives in acidic, alkaline, loamy, sandy, or well-drained soils, among other conditions. It can withstand a few dry spells, but loves damp, but not soggy, soil to grow in.

In this specific species, the needles are renowned for being both delicate and pleasant in scent.

Shore Juniper

A few of the most frequent varieties of this popular juniper include Blue Pacific, Emerald Sea, Silver Mist, and Sunsplash, among others. Shore junipers, in contrast to the other evergreens discussed in this article, only reach a height of about a foot, but what they lack in height they make up for in spread, which ranges from six to eight feet. As a result, many homeowners choose to plant it as a groundcover. When grown in moderate shade, shore juniper will thrive, but full sun is preferable if at all possible.

If you have slopes in your yard, this is a fantastic plant to use for erosion control, retaining walls, and rock gardens, among other things.

Once they have become established, they require only a light trimming around the margins once a year at most.

While it favors dry soils, try mulching around the base of the plant to help keep the soil’s moisture level balanced. If we have a stormy spring, they will be less likely to cause harm. However, they should still be monitored.

Norway Spruce

The Norway spruce is a good choice if you want a towering tree in a short amount of time. It is the fastest-growing spruce, with annual growth rates ranging between 13 and 24 inches. Most evergreens like lots of direct sunshine, and it thrives in acidic, loamy, wet, sandy, well-drained, or clay soils, as do most other evergreens. It is drought resistant to a certain extent. Depending on how you prune it, it may grow to medium to towering heights. Height is typically 40-60 feet, with a spread of 25-30 feet being the norm.

Its origins may be traced back to Eurasia and the Black Forest area of Germany, though.

Considering how much songbirds enjoy this tree, it could be worth considering planting one in your yard if you’re seeking for a little fairy tale magic to add to your yard.

Eastern White Pine

Eastern white pines, which are the tallest of the evergreens we suggest, may reach heights of 50-80 feet and can spread out to a phenomenal 40 feet in spread when fully mature. It prefers soils that are acidic, damp, well-drained, or dry, and it grows best in either full sun or moderate shade. It has some drought tolerance, as do all of the evergreens we’ve recommended, but don’t let it go for an extended period of time without receiving adequate water. Eastern white pines are distinguished by their long and slender needles, which can grow to be up to 5 inches in length.

In nature, they develop in a pyramidal form, and many birds and other animals find them to be quite attractive.

Littleleaf Boxwood

This attractive little shrub is well-suited to the climate of Tennessee, and it produces thick, oval-shaped leaves that remain evergreen throughout the year. Many individuals like trimming these lovely bushes into shapes such as spherical balls, precisely square walls, cones, or even spirals, among other things. If you’re not sure where to begin, we can guide you through the process. They’re great for both in-ground planting and container gardening if you have a limited amount of room in your yard.

Littleleaf boxwoods prefer soil that is wet, cold, and well-drained.

Boxwood, after it has established itself in your garden, has a moderate drought tolerance.

Due to the fact that it grows well in full light and prunes well, it is quite easy to shape it in creative ways. It is also resistant to harm from rabbits and deer. Spring brings little white blooms with a light aroma that lasts just a short time but is lovely.

Keep Your Tennessee Trees Healthy With Services From 4 EverGreen

4EverGreen Lawn Care will ensure that you enjoy your new tree or shrub for many years to come, no matter what sort of tree or shrub you choose for your yard or garden. Western Tennessee’s premier lawn care and landscaping company, we provide a wide range of services. Our tree and shrub care program is intended to provide all of the resources your beautiful plants require to thrive, including deep-root fertilizer, dormant oil treatments, insect control methods, and other essential services. Please contact us or submit a request for a free quotation.

Give Them Room! Spacing Trees Correctly

A drive through any older neighborhood will rapidly reveal massive trees growing right up against the houses, obstructing windows, harming foundations and drains, and making interiors dark and dingy. The reasons for poor planting distance selections are easy to discover, but why do people make them?

  • 69.50–119.50 dollars” Zones 7-9 are priced between $ 49.50 and $ 99.50.” Zones 6-9
  • Data-id=”3758″>Zones 6-9

The fact that we consider plants to be attractive and little, as well as our desire to fill our houses with green, is the most significant single factor for inappropriate tree placement. However, the expenses of removal, damage, insurance claims, and the forced removal of heritage trees are significant, as is the impact on the environment. Trees take time to develop, and many of them can and do grow to be very enormous, so it is well worth the effort to take your time and use a measuring tape when selecting the best location for your new tree to be planted.

Remember: Roots Spread Wide

There is a widespread belief that the roots of trees extend to the ‘drip line,’ or the point at which the foliage ceases to grow. When it comes to trees, the idea of the root system as an upside-down replica of the branches is completely incorrect, because the roots of virtually all trees reach 1.5 to 3 times the height of the tree. As a result, a sixty-foot tree will have some roots that extend more than 150 feet from the trunk, but those outermost roots will be little feeding roots rather than the huge structural roots that might cause significant harm.

When a tree is uprooted in a storm, it is often because the soil is too hard.

Consider What Tree It Is

The extent to which the roots will extend and the severity with which they may interfere with drains and foundations are determined not only by the final height of the tree, but also by the type of tree. The Weeping Willow is the most well-known of these aggressive plants, although any willow that grows to a great size can become a nuisance. Cottonwood, aspen, and any other poplar trees, as well as silver maple, Norway maple, black locust, and American elm, are examples of trees with comparable characteristics.

Don’t forget to take into consideration your neighbor’s house and pipes as well.

As a result, they are popular options for lawn specimens, hedges, and screens, among other things. However, just because they don’t cause harm doesn’t mean they won’t outgrow their space in your garden, and evergreens are particularly poor at this since they block light.

Think About the Hidden Future Costs

Planting trees too close to a structure – whether your own or a neighbor’s – or to a property line might result in substantial financial losses for you. Choosing a tree that is too huge for your land might have the same effect. Removal of huge trees, especially in urban areas, is a time-consuming and expensive endeavor. Likewise, tearing down and repairing sewage systems is a common practice. If your tree crosses your neighbor’s property boundaries or causes damage to their foundations, you will be responsible for the cost of repairing the harm.

Neighbors have the right to compel you to remove a tree that is or may be dangerous – at their expense.

Many individuals plant enormous trees in the hope that future owners would take care of any problems that arise.

How Much Room Should I Allow?

All of these aspects are important when selecting trees to plant. Look at the final measurements indicated for each and then walk out into the garden with a measuring tape to see how much space you really have, taking into account everything we’ve discussed so far. Take a look at the locations where you were considering planting and take the following distances into consideration. Allow the following spacings between foundations, sewers, and drains in order to safeguard them: Small trees, such as flowering dogwoods, magnolias, or smaller conifers, should be given 10 feet of clearance.

Large trees, such as sugar maples, oaks, Gingko trees, or flowering pear trees, require 30 to 50 feet of space.

Distance From Buildings and Other Trees

In addition to preserving foundations, there are additional considerations to keep in mind while planting near your residence. The first thing to consider is visual size. A typical two-story residence with a pitched roof is 20 to 25 feet in height, depending on the region. Many trees, whether evergreen or deciduous, will grow to be 60 to 80 feet tall, and if they are planted directly next to your house, they will appear ridiculous. Overhanging limbs can also cause roof damage if they are broken, and if the tree falls in a storm, it will ruin a large portion of your home if it falls completely.

Keep those larger trees a safe distance away from your home so that you may enjoy and appreciate their beauty without being in danger.

See also:  What Can You Plant Over A Septic Tank? (Solved)

In general, if you halve the width of a mature tree, that should be the very minimum distance away from the house – even at that distance, the branches will eventually come into contact with the home’s glass windows.

The same guideline should be followed while spacing trees apart if you want them to preserve their individuality. Trees planted close together create a beautiful forest, but that may not be the sort of garden you had in mind for your home!

Think About Light

In the event that you are planting a bigger tree, consider where the shadow will fall. By the middle of the afternoon in the middle of summer, a tree will throw a shadow that is equal to its height. The tree’s shadow will be cast to the south-west of the center point. During the winter, the shadow will be significantly longer, which is why giant evergreens are not recommended for planting near a home. A deciduous tree planted on the south side of your home will provide pleasant, cooling shade in the summer and allow warming sunlight to filter through in the winter – making it a far better choice.

Don’t Be Put Off Planting Trees

All of this does not rule out the possibility of planting trees, with all of the joy and beauty that comes with it. It does imply that you should make an informed decision. Modern technology makes it possible to purchase numerous smaller replicas of full-size trees, in addition to all the trees that naturally remain tiny. So go ahead and plant something – just make sure you give it some consideration beforehand. There are many, many nice options available, depending on your circumstances. In the event that you truly want a large example of a gigantic redwood in your courtyard garden, there’s always the option of bonsai!

Viewing a thread – Windbreak Planting Thoughts

I just relocated to a different location. So far, I’m really enjoying it. It is possible that we reside in a collection of houses that are only 3 or 4 hundred feet away from one another. I’m thinking about erecting a windbreak/privacy screen along the western boundary of my land. The windbreak is necessary for obvious reasons, but I’m considering planting some faster-growing trees to provide a more immediate privacy screen. It’s still a little strange for me to be standing in my yard and knowing that people from the neighboring houses are looking at me.

  • In any case – As a windbreak, I’ve usually used a couple lines of Norway spruce and am considering doing so once more.
  • They would provide me with a fast screen that I really need, but I’m not confident in their ability to keep the Austrees alive for an extended period of time.
  • I’m also only planning on staying in this place for a maximum of 20 years.
  • I don’t see many deer around here, but I’m guessing they’ll come here to eat the fruit from these trees.
  • There’s also a septic leach field nearby, which is around 40-50 feet from the first row of trees on the property line, which is a source of concern.
  • Some of the 2″ poly water line that we used to run all around the farm for paddock water a few years ago could be salvageable, and I’m thinking of turning it into a drip system to save money.
  • I’ve also reached out to Kelly Tree in Clarence, Iowa, this weekend for recommendations.

They appear to be running a really excellent company; perhaps they will have some advice. Do you have any opinions or experiences with the Austrees (or something else that is rapidly expanding)? Edited by gmoney on 1/22/2012 at 09:33 a.m.

What Not To Plant

Everything that is done to improve the biodiversity of the urban canopy must be underpinned by something basic and incredibly fundamental: proper quantities and quality of soil and water. That’s all there is to it. The addition of macronutrients (NPK), micronutrients (Mn, Mg, and so on), compost tea, mulch, foliar sprays, and even the treatment of the tree’s nails will have no effect on the tree’s growth. The tree will grow regardless of what is done to it. That tree is on its way to a premature demise.

As soon as favorable growth circumstances have been established, the selection of trees becomes vitally crucial.

During this article, I’m going to go over a list of all the trees that we shouldn’t plant (I’ll go over the trees that we should plant in a later post).

What tree where?

Approximately 5% of all tree species may be found growing in almost every environment. We’re familiar with them, and while we’re at ease with these species, this is precisely what we should avoid planting. Why? It is possible to find a few genera that are significantly overrepresented in the urban forest of North America. These trees are prone to four types of catastrophic failure, all of which are related to human health and safety:

  1. People, automobiles, and buildings are at risk from falling trees and branches
  2. Invasive species are destroying natural regions
  3. Roots are entering sewer systems and other underground services
  4. And there is an epidemic going on.

However, the purpose of the following lists, while not exhaustive, is to exclude from consideration the 5 to 10% of trees that create major issues and do not belong in urban settings. I’m telling you which city trees you should avoid planting because I believe it’s simpler for people to quit doing something they are already doing than it is to start doing something new. Now it’s time to make some lists.

Vulnerable to an epidemic

It might be an insect, a virus, bacteria, or a fungus.

  • Ash (Fraxinus) is susceptible to the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB), with the exception of Manchurian (mandshurica)
  • Cherries (Prunus) are susceptible to a wide range of insects and illnesses, with the majority of species and cultivars being susceptible. Colorado Blue Spruce (Picea pungens): Cytospora Canker finally kills all needles, resulting in defoliation and death of the tree. Crabapples (Malus) are susceptible to Cedar Apple Rust and Fire Blight, both of which cause full defoliation of the trees. The majority of species and cultivars are affected. The following species are found in the EAST Section Lobatae: Black Oak (Quercus velutina)
  • Water Oak (Q. nigra)
  • Northern Red Oak (Q. rubra/borealis)
  • Pin Oak (Q. palustris)
  • Northern Pin Oak (Q. ellipsodalis)
  • Willow Oak (Q. phellos)
  • Elms (Ulmus): susceptible to Dutch Elm Disease (DED), with the exception of In addition to the hedge plant (A. campestre), Norway plant (A. platanoides), Amur plant (A. ginnala), and Tatar plant (A. tatarica), there are three North American natives that have been severely overplanted and are thus particularly sensitive to an overseas epidemic: Silver (A. saccharinum)
  • Red (A. rubra)
  • Sugar (A. saccharum)
  • Pines (Pinus): notably Austrian (P. nigra)
  • Pinecones (Pinus)
  • Pinecones (P In the case of the Ponderosa (P. ponderosa), Dothistroma Needle Blight eventually kills all except current year’s needles, causing defoliation and, in severe cases, death. Anthracnose affects the planetree (Platanus), with the exception of two London Plane tree varieties (P. x acerifolia ‘Bloodgood’ and ‘Columbia’). In North America, Red Oaks (Quercus.Section Lobatae in Eastern North America
  • Section Protoblanus in Western North America) are members of the Red Oak group (which have bristles on its leaves) and are extremely susceptible to Oak Wilt. Furthermore, because the Red Oak group has a large number of species and is present on four of the five continents that support tree growth, the likelihood of an epidemic is greatly increased. WEST Section Protoblanus: e.g., Canyon Live Oak (Quercus chrysolepis)
  • White Birches (Betula): susceptible to Bronze Birch Borer
  • Most species and cultivars, with the exception of River (nigra and nigra ‘Heritage’)
  • Protoblanus (Quercus chrysolepis)
  • Protoblan

A word about maples I’m worried that the future of maples will not be a good one for the species. I believe they will be hit by an outbreak comparable to that of Dutch Elm Disease, Emerald Ash Borer, or Chestnut Blight. Maples currently account up more than 30 percent of the urban forest canopy in U.S. cities east of the Mississippi River, representing tens of millions of individual trees. Perhaps it will be the Asian Long Horned Beetle, which has already been discovered in some parts of the United States; or perhaps it will be something entirely new that we are completely unaware of.

As a result, I am appealing to all responsible experts in the tree-growing industry to kindly refrain from planting maple trees.

Structurally Vulnerable

(soft or weak timber; branch attachments included; root plates in danger of breaking)

  • Soft wood
  • Weak branch attachments
  • Cottonwoods (Populus): Eastern (P. deltoidia)
  • Big Tooth or Western (P. grandidentata): Soft wood
  • Cottonwoods Strong branch attachments in Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus)
  • Most species cultivars have weak branch attachments. Maples (Acer): Boxelder (Acer negundo) and Silver (Acer saccharinum): Soft wood
  • Weak branch attachments
  • Boxelder (Acer negundo): Soft wood
  • Silver (Acer saccharinum): Soft wood Weak branch attachments in pears (Pyrus)
  • This is true for the majority of species and cultivars. Strong branch attachments on Siberian Elm (Ulmus sinensis), and DED is a possibility. Water Oaks (Quercus nigra) have soft wood and weak branch attachments, making them a poor choice for landscaping. Weeping willows (Salix), particularly the babylonica variety
  • Crack willows (Salix fragilis): soft wood
  • Main trunk and root plate failure are prevalent
  • And

Severely Invasive: The Naughty List

(Kudzu Vine is an example of a plant that self-seeds and outcompetes native trees, shrubs, grasses, and forbs in wild and natural settings.) According to the 2014 USDA’s Invasive Species Group, trees on this list either rose or dropped into the list as a result of their designation as invasive in more than 200 counties across the United States, depending on your point of view. This is a comprehensive list for the purposes of this article. Exceptions include aggressive indigenous that have spread outside their pre-European Contact habitat, such as Black Locust, Hedge Apple, Eastern Red Cedar, and other similar species; commercial fruit and nut trees that may have escaped from cultivation and become a nuisance; and other invasive species.

  • Buckthorn (Rhamnus): Species from Europe and Asia, in particular: Glossy (R. cathartica)
  • Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana): This is NOT a commercial fruit
  • Glossy (R. cathartica)
  • Glossy Chinaberry (Melia azedarach)
  • Chinese Tallow (Triadica sebiferum)
  • Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus): most speciescultivars
  • European Mountain Ash (Sorbus aucuparia)
  • Honeysuckles (Lonicera): Species from Europe and Asia are particularly abundant. Lombardy Poplar (Populus nigra’Italica’), White Poplar (Populus alba), Tatarian (L. tatarica), Amur (L. maackii)
  • Bells (L. bella)
  • Morrow’s (L. morrowii)
  • Lombardy Poplar (Populus nigra’Italica’)
  • White Poplar (Populus alba)
  • Maples (Acer): particularly E There are several varieties of Amur (A. ginnala), Norway (A. pseudoplatanus), Mimosa (Albizzia julibrizum), Mulberry (Morus): particularly the Asian/White/Paper (Morus alba), and Paradise Apple (Malus pumila), which is NOT a commercial fruit. Privets (Ligustrum): notably Chinese (L. sinense)
  • Common (L. vulgare)
  • Russian Olives (Eleagnus): Russian (Eleagnus angustifolia)
  • Thorny (Eleagnus pungens)
  • Autumn (Eleagnus umbellata)
  • Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
  • Trifoliate Orange (Poncirus trifoliate): This is NOT a Willows (Salix): particularly Eurasian species and cultivars include: Weeping (Salix x ‘Babylonica), White (Salix alba), Crack (Salix fragilis), Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila), and Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila).

Damaging Roots

The trees below have extremely robust root systems; they are phriatiphytes, which means they thrive in areas where there is a continual supply of water accessible, such as near streams and lakes. The roots of these trees, in their hunt for water and nutrients, cause blockages in waste water lines (sewer pipes). Because this artificial source of water and nutrients is permanent, the roots of these trees will infiltrate and fill the pipes with roots, ultimately forcing them to rely on this artificial source and causing them to become entirely obstructed.

  • Species of cottonwood (Populus) include the Eastern (P. deltoidea), Dogtooth (P. grandentata), Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides), Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum), and Willows (Salix) including the majority of cultivars.

The Right Tree for the Wrong Place

Also included in this category are a number of tree species that might be problematic in some locations and settings while being excellent options in others. Take into consideration the species on these lists in light of the environmental variables prevalent on your property.

Minor Human Health Hazard

(huge cones that can injure humans, high quantities of pollen that can trigger asthma attacks)

  • Extreme thorns on the Bristly Locust (R. hispida), and Extreme thorns on the Common Locust (Robinia). Except in the case of ‘Chicago Blues,’ black (pseudoaccacia): ‘Cotton’ can cause HVAC intakes to become clogged due to high pollen levels in the Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoidea) and the Dogtooth (Populus grandentata). Pines (Pinus): Especially the Gigantic Cones of: Coulter’s (Pinus coulteri): The World’s Heaviest Pine Cone
  • Sugar (Pinus lambertiana): The World’s Longest Pine Cone
  • Prickly Ash (Zanthoxylum americanum): Thorns
  • Mountain Cedar (Juniperus asheii): Prodigious Pollinator
  • Mountain Cedar (Juniperus

Annoyance Factors

These are trees that can be planted in the city without causing major difficulties such as insect infestations, invasiveness, invading roots, structural concerns, or people being struck in the head by falling branches. Almost all of these issues can be resolved with the use of a broom. These are quite healthy trees, with the exception of their apparent messiness. Some of them will be included on our list of suggested planting sites.


(examples: huge pods, fruits, nuts, or a vast number of flying seeds)

  • Nuts
  • Catalpa (Catalpa): Southern (Carya bignoides) and Northern (Carya speciosa): Pods
  • Common Locust (Robinia): Black (R. pseudoaccacia): Pods except ‘Chicago Blues’
  • Bristly (R. hispida)
  • Hackberry (Celtis occidentalis): Ball Bearing Sized Nuts
  • Hickories (Carya


  • Husk of Chinese Chestnut (Castinea mollissima): husk of nut
  • Gingko’s Females (Ginkgo biloba Female): fruits
  • Only males of Ginkgo biloba should be used

Fruit and Sap

  • American Linden (Tilia americana): Sap on Cars
  • Asian Mulberry (Morus alba): Pavement Staining Fruit
  • Ginkgo Females (Ginkgo biloba Female): Slippery Fruits
  • Sweet Gum (Liquidamber strycaflua): Gum Pods
  • Ginkgo Males (Ginkgo biloba Male): Slippery Fruits
  • Ginkgo Males (Ginkgo biloba Male)

So whatshouldwe plant?

Dirr, Coder, Urban, Johnson, McPherson, Gilman, Harris, and Shigo all deserve credit for their contributions to these lists, which were derived from their publications and interactions. The next and last piece in this series will compile a list of trees that have shown to be strong challengers in urban environments throughout time. Using this list, you may create a diverse urban tree canopy with no genus accounting for more than 5 percent of the city’s Urban Tree Canopy if you provide appropriate care (enough soil quality, adequate soil amount, and water).

This is the third installment in a three-part series on species diversity in the urban forest.


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