- Place the pipes in the leach field a minimum of 6 inches and most likely between 18 to 36 inches deep according to the Clemson Cooperative Extension. Each leach field requires an individual design as soil and water tables vary from state to state and within states. How Do You Install A Septic Leach Field? – Related Questions
How deep does a leach field need to be?
Septic drainfield trench depth specification: A typical septic drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36″; or per the USDA, 2 feet to 5 feet in depth.
Can I install my own leach field?
You may also need to pull a permit to put in a new leach field. A leach field is an important part of a septic system. It disperses fluid from the septic system over a large area of soil adjacent to the building it services. Building your own leach field is physically difficult, but it can save you lots of money.
How far should a septic leach field be from your house?
Local codes and regulations that stipulate the distance of the septic tank from the house vary depending on the locale, but the typical minimum distance is 10 feet.
Can a leach field be higher than septic tank?
Uphill areas, areas that are higher than the elevation of the septic tank are not a first choice to contain the drainfield or leaching beds. Unless a septic pump or effluent pump system are installed (you’d find wiring, and perhaps alarms) the drain field is going to be at or below the elevation of the septic tank.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
How big of a septic tank do I need?
The larger your home, the larger the septic tank you’re going to need. For instance, a house smaller than 1,500 square feet usually requires a 750 to 1,000-gallon tank. On the other hand, a bigger home of approximately 2,500 square feet will need a bigger tank, more than the 1,000-gallon range.
How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?
How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.
How do I calculate the size of my septic drain field?
- The size of the drainfield is based on the number of bedrooms and soil characteristics, and is given as square feet.
- For example, the minimum required for a three bedroom house with a mid range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch is 750 square feet.
How much fall should a leach line have?
In a conventional gravity system, the pipe from the house to the septic tank, and the outlet pipe from the tank to the distribution box or leach field, should both slope downward with a minimum slope of 1/4 in. per ft. (1/8 in. per ft.
What can you put on top of a septic field?
Put plastic sheets, bark, gravel or other fill over the drainfield. Reshape or fill the ground surface over the drainfield and reserve area. However, just adding topsoil is generally OK if it isn’t more than a couple of inches. Make ponds on or near the septic system and the reserve area.
How do you vent a leach field?
A candy cane, which is actually a vent pipe, allows for proper air ventilation for the leaching field. Sometimes vent pipes can also be installed to run through the home’s main plumbing ventilation, but other times a candy cane is necessary to properly vent the leaching field.
Where should a leach field be placed?
Choose a low elevation area For water to leave the septic tank and travel to the drain field, it has to utilize gravity or pumps. Now, if you can, choose a low elevation area that’s just below the septic tank so that gravity can push the wastewater to the leach field.
How long will a leach field last?
Under normal conditions and good care, a leach-field will last for 50 years or more. Concrete septic tanks are sturdy and reliable but not indestructible.
What is the difference between a drain field and a leach field?
Septic drain fields (also called leach fields or soil absorption areas) are one part of a household septic system. Drain fields are areas of land, specifically designed to help filter and remove contaminants from wastewater.
How to Install a Septic System
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.
However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.
- 1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.
- The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:
- Available space
- Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
- Location of the well and/or nearby wells
- And other factors.
- The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:
- The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
- The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
- And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
- 2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement
Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.
- 1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:
- Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
- A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
- A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
- A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
- PVC primer and adhesive
- A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
- Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
- The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
- Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
- Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
- Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
- Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
- Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
- A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
- A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
- And a septic tank.
- 2 Determine the location of the entrance to the building in relation to the location of the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.
- The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.
- Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
- Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.
- 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the desired depth
- Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.
- 4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
- Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement
- A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.
- Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.
- Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement
Create a new question
- Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
- It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
- Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
- Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs
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- The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
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- Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.
Things You’ll Need
- The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
- PVC pipe with perforations
- Material for embedding
- PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
- Course file
- Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.
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Credit for the image: Panya /iStock/Getty Images Although it takes time to construct a septic drain field properly, the effort is worth it in the long run. Septic tanks have a lifespan of 15 to 30 years. Drain fields, also known as leach fields, do not persist for very long periods of time, unfortunately. A drain field can survive up to ten years if it is installed in a well-drained location with excellent ground absorption. Drain fields can be divided into four portions of 25 feet each, or two sections of 50 feet each, depending on the layout you select for your drainage system.
Step 1: Do Your Research
To find out whether a permit is necessary for the installation of an aseptic field line or whether the health department must examine the drain field during construction or after it is completed, check with your local county office and health department for further information. It is almost always necessary to obtain a permit and have your property inspected.
Step 2: Determine Soil Drainage/Absorption
In order to assess the soil’s absorption capacity, dig a hole in it. Soil testing may usually be performed for a minimal price by the local Department of Agriculture office if you live in a rural area. A drain field should not be constructed in an area with poor drainage. A septic drain field should be located 10 feet away from the house or any body of water, as well as 10 feet away from gardens and edibles.
Step 3: Locate Underground Utilities
Before you begin digging, contact a utility finding provider to ensure that you do not accidentally cut any underground utility lines while digging. Spray paint or flags will be used to designate the ground above any lines that are drawn by the firm.
It is possible that you will be held accountable for the expense of restoring the cables if the lines are not clearly designated and one or more of them are severed because you did not have them marked.
Step 4: Dig Drain Field Trenches
It is recommended that each drain-field trench be at least 3 to 4 feet broad and 3 to 4 feet deep. For a 1,000-gallon septic tank, there should be at least 100 feet of drain field. This can be performed by digging four 25-foot-long trenches or two 50-foot-long trenches, as appropriate. Each 8 feet of pipe should be placed in a trench with a modest downward inclination of no more than 1/4 inch per foot of pipe. A downhill slope that is too steep might result in drainage issues since the waste could pool at the end of the trench.
Step 5: Add Gravel and Perforated Pipe
Fill in the trench with a thick layer of gravel that is at least 1 foot deep and extends the length of the trench. It would be preferable to have one and a half feet of gravel. Place a perforated pipe into the trench on top of the gravel and join the pipe to the septic tank drain using a clamp.
Step 6: Add More Gravel
Another half-inch of gravel should be placed on top of the perforated pipe, with additional gravel placed around the edges. Septic fabric should be placed over the gravel to prevent loose dirt from entering into the rocks. Backfill the trench with the dirt that was previously taken from the trench by raking it up and into the trench. Approximately a week later, once the earth has had a chance to settle a little, pile some additional dirt on top of the trench in order to elevate the level of the soil until it is equal with the surrounding ground and to prevent rainfall from gathering in the depression.
How to Install and Care for a Leach Field
You’ve probably heard a little bit about septic tanks and how important they are for the average household. Your household drainage system, on the other hand, is dependent on more than just the septic tank to complete the sewage treatment process. In truth, your septic tank is only responsible for 45 percent of the waste disposal job, with the other 55 percent being handled by the leach field, also known as the septic drain field. The leach field, which is an important component of the septic system, functions by eliminating pollutants from the wastewater that passes through the septic tank.
Instructions on how to set up and maintain a leach field HKPNC/E+/Getty Images is credited with this image.
The Importance of a Leach Field
Essentially, the leach field’s principal function is to remove contaminants that have already been “digested” by the septic tank. The leach field is one of the most frequent forms of septic drain fields accessible, and its size is determined by the type of soil and the size of your yard. It’s typically made by a rectangular trench that contains a succession of pipes and gravel in various configurations. The drain field’s purpose is to dispose of liquid impurities that have accumulated in the septic tank and to prevent animals or surface drainage from reaching the material beneath the surface of the drain field.
Installing a Leach Field
Before you begin preparing for the installation, there are a few things you should consider first. First and foremost, you must assess the quantity of excavation that will be required as well as any potential landscape damage. Depending on the location of your home and the intricacy of the project, you may be required to get a construction permit. After digging the trenches in a downward direction, lay between 1 and 1 1/2 inches of gravel at the bottom of each trench and then insert the pipe from the septic tank into the trenches as shown.
Once the pipe is in place, add an extra layer of gravel and cover it with a permeable cloth to keep it from becoming too hot. Finish the operation by laying dirt over the remaining portion of the trench to level it out as needed.
How to Maintain
A correctly designed leach field will ensure that your household septic system will continue to operate efficiently for many years to come. Septic drain fields may often endure for up to 50 years provided they are inspected and maintained on a regular basis, which is recommended. Once the drain field has been built, take care not to place any heavy objects on it, as this might cause the subterranean pipes to break and the wastewater treatment process to be interrupted. It is also recommended to avoid paving since it inhibits water from evaporating and can soon result in drain field collapse.
How to Make a Septic Tank Drain Field
To fully functionally and efficiently operate a septic tank on your property, you will require a septic tank drain field, which is also known as a leach field or a leach drain, in addition to the tank itself. While all septic tank drain fields must be inspected on a regular basis, you may save a significant amount of money by excavating your own.
Step 1 – Choose Your Site
The site should be distant from the home but near to the tank, as this will be your primary focus. There should be at least 10 feet between your edible garden and any bodies of water, including a lake or river or an irrigation well.
Step 2 – Contact the Authorities
Check to see whether you need a permission to construct the septic tank drain field, or if you need to have the site inspected before you begin construction. It takes a lot of effort to dig a field, but it is far more difficult to have to remove it and start over. Before beginning this project, double-check that all applicable rules and regulations have been met.
Step 3 – Make Sure the Soil is Appropriate
Even though it is not essential, it is recommended that the soil in the region be evaluated. The absorption capacity of the system will be insufficient, and you will have difficulties with backups. It’s best to find out this information before you start digging. Submit a soil test sample to your local extension office, or pick up a soil test kit from this location.
Step 4 – Start Digging
Even though it is not essential, it is recommended that the soil in the region be evaluated. The absorption capacity of the system will be insufficient, and you will have difficulties with backups. It’s best to find out this information before you start digging. Submit a soil test sample to your local extension office, or pick up a soil test kit from this location.
Step 5 – Place Gravel
If you haven’t already, you should place at least 1-1 1/2 inches of gravel down the bottom of each trench once it has been dug. This allows for drainage to take place beneath the pipe.
Step 6 – Add the Pipe
Place the pipe from the septic tank all the way down the length of every trench. In order to prevent the pipe from shifting and becoming misaligned at the septic tank outflow, use clamps to secure it in place.
Step 7 – Add More Gravel
Afterwards, fill the trench with another one to three inches of gravel and let it to work its way down around the pipe until the pipe is completely covered with gravel.
Step 8 – Add the Cloth
Afterwards, fill the trench with another one to three inches of gravel and let it to work its way down around the pipe until the pipe is completely covered with gravel.
Step 9 – More Dirt
As soon as you are through with the pipe and gravel, the following step is to fill the rest of the trench with earth, making sure that your field is level with the surrounding terrain. After the earth has settled, you will have to wait another two weeks. When the earth settles, you will most likely need to add additional soil to your field in order to level it.
Step 10 – Plantings (Optional)
There are various plants that will thrive in a septic tank drainage field, preventing it from becoming an eyesore in the process. Keep in mind that you will not be able to aerate or till the soil. Additionally, you are not permitted to add more than two to three inches of top soil. Japanese surge, carpet bugle, periwinkle, Irish moss, and various strains of wildflowers are examples of plants that require minimal water and have shallow root systems, and they may be used in containers or in the garden.
Depending on where you live, the law may require you to have this test performed by a licensed professional or agency on your behalf.
You will have a backup problem in the tank if the septic tank drain field is placed incorrectly, which is in addition to the potential legal difficulties.
Septic Tank Installation and Pricing
To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. Although it is possible to construct a septic tank on your own, we recommend that you hire a professional to do it owing to the amount of skill and specific equipment required.
Who Needs a Septic Tank?
For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.
How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation
Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.
Receive Multiple Estimates
Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done.
Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.
Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit
For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.
Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test.
Plan for Excavation
Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home. Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected.
The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank
There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.
A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.
Building Permit Application
A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.
Excavation and Installation
When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.
Types of Septic Tank Systems
Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.
Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.
Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.
It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land. The average cost of these systems is roughly $8,000.
Types of Septic Tanks
- Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000
More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.
Using Your Septic Tank
It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.
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How to unclog your leach field
A SHOCK TREATMENT CAN SAVE YOU UP TO $150. The leach field, also known as a drain field, is the area where effluent from the septic tank is disposed of. In this stage of the septic system, a network of perforated PVC drain pipes, crushed stone, and a layer of unsaturated soil are combined to form a septic system. Gravity is typically responsible for the movement of wastewater from the septic tank to the leaching bed. Nevertheless, when the conditions do not permit the use of gravity to transport the wastewater to the leaching bed, a pumping station can be utilized to transport the wastewater to the leaching bed.
Final filtering is carried out by the presence of bacteria and other microorganisms that further purify the wastewater before it reaches the groundwater table.
It does, however, become clogged from time to time.
How is a leach field made?
It is critical that the leaching bed functions well in the wastewater treatment system, and if it does not, the entire system will be adversely affected. It is also critical to prevent structural problems from occurring in the first place by ensuring that the building is designed correctly. As a result, only fully licensed contractors are permitted to do such a project. But, first and foremost, you will need to conduct a percolation test as well as a comprehensive review by an engineering professional.
A quick percolation rate is seen in sandy soils; whereas, a sluggish percolation rate is found in clay soils.
In order for a soil to be considered excellent, its percolation rate should not be too high or too low.
If, on the other hand, it takes more than an hour for the water to settle, this indicates that the effluent is not infiltrating quickly enough, which might result in backflow difficulties.
The findings of the percolation test, as well as the layout of the various components of your property, will be used by the engineer to provide recommendations on the type of system to use and how to install it.
Steps followed when building a leach field
- The moment has come to start digging the trenches after all of the testing have been performed and the building plan has been finalized and approved by the project team. The number of trenches that will need to be built depends on the size of the septic tank and the volume of wastewater that will be released into the leaching field throughout the construction process. Each trench should have the same breadth as the others (approximately 3-4 feet). In addition, the ditches should have a modest downhill slope to them. Following the excavation of the trenches, they should be filled with crushed stone. The crushed stone bed should be at least one to one and a half inches thick and evenly distributed throughout the ditches. This procedure is critical because it enables for more effective drainage of the effluent under the perforated pipes
- Nevertheless, it is not required. The perforated pipes are then laid on top of a bed of crushed stone to allow for proper drainage. Crushed stone is then placed on top of the perforated pipes to ensure that they are securely attached — enough to prevent them from moving or getting misaligned over time. A layer of crushed stone between 1 and 3 inches thick should enough.
- Following that, a geotextile membrane is laid over the crushed stones. When the membrane is in place, soil or dirt cannot slip between the crushed stones and cause a blockage in the leaching bed. If you haven’t already, install a drain line from the septic tank to the leach field pipes. Finally, the trenches are filled with dirt to make them more level and to make the surface of the leach field more consistent in appearance. After that, you may cover the area with a covering of grass. And, at all costs, avoid planting anything else in or near this part of the yard.
How long does a septic leach field last?
Weeping beds should last at least 25 years if they are well-maintained, but they may live much longer or shorter depending on a variety of conditions. The majority of leaching fields collapse as a result of biological or hydraulic overstress. Hydraulic overload occurs when an excessive amount of water is discharged into the septic tank. Consequently, it is advised that duties such as washing be spread out throughout the course of the week rather than being completed in a single weekend session.
When an excessive amount of organic material enters the leaching field, this is referred to as biological overloading.
The only solid waste that should be disposed of in your septic system is toilet paper and human waste (feces).
Because of the high activity of the bacterial flora in your system, Bio-Sol’sSepti +can help to avoid biological overload in your system.
What is clogging your leach field?
The leaching bed, like the septic tank, is not meant to survive indefinitely. All leaching fields will need to be replaced at some point in the future. However, with careful care and maintenance, your leaching bed should last for many years, if not for a lifetime. The leaching bed utilizes aerobic bacteria on the receiving soil to filter wastewater before it reaches the groundwater table, preventing groundwater contamination. These bacteria decompose organic materials and aid in the elimination of viruses as well as the reduction of nutrients in wastewater.
Clogging in the leaching bed, on the other hand, causes this process to be slowed down, resulting in unavoidable environmental contamination.
During the wastewater treatment process, a black, gelatinous layer forms beneath the distribution pipes as the wastewater passes through the leach field. Rather than sludge, this layer is really a biomaterial sludge known as “biomat.” Because the biomat is waterproof, it significantly minimizes the amount of wastewater that percolates into the soil. In most cases, this biomat is formed of organic waste and anaerobic bacteria that have attached themselves to the soil or broken stone. The organic stuff in the effluent provides food for these bacteria.
- Contrary to this, it aids in the further filtering of wastewater by reducing the rate of infiltration and retaining the organic matter before the water is allowed to reach the soil.
- More black gelatinous sludge builds up in the trenches, the more difficult it will be for the wastewater to permeate and subsequently percolate into the soil as a result of the accumulation.
- As soon as sewage begins to back up, it will always flow to the spot that provides the least amount of resistance.
- When this occurs, the objective should not be to entirely remove the biomat from the environment.
It is important to note that good care and maintenance of the system will assist in preventing such an imbalance, which will save you a great deal of headache (like having to unclog your leach field).
How do you know if your leach field is failing?
It goes without saying that the most visible indicator of a failing leaching bed is when wastewater overflows and reaches the surface. The effluent will rise to the top of the soil or, in certain situations, will pour out the end of the trenches if the receiving soil in the leaching bed is unable to absorb any more water from the receiving soil. The most common reason for the effluent to stop flowing is due to an excessive amount of biomatis being created. Check out the following indicators to determine if you need to unclog your leach field:.
Sluggish drains and toilets
Prior to the drain field failing altogether, you may notice that water is draining through the home at a slower rate. The drains will continue to function as long as there is enough space for the water to flow. On the other hand, it is possible that the water is draining more slowly. If you neglect this problem, which is caused by the leach field, the situation will deteriorate over time and become more serious. It is possible that the septic tank will become overflowing and that the water will be unable to penetrate into the earth at all.
Septic tank scents might be detected in the vicinity of the leaching area or within the house itself. Another sign that the leaching field is failing is the presence of rust. Due to the fact that it is so uncomfortable, this is perhaps one of the easiest indicators to recognize. To determine if you are experiencing the rotten egg smell, first check to see if there has been a buildup of organic material in the plumbing system. You may either use an ecologically friendly drain cleaner (such as SeptiDrain) or check your septic tank for abnormally high water levels to resolve the problem.
Sewage backing up in the house
In the case of clogged septic fields, water is returned to them, which causes the water level in the septic tank to rise. Water will back up through the hole in the septic tank or into your home if there isn’t enough room left in the tank. The leach field in your septic tank is almost certain to be the source of the problem if you see an excessively high water level in the tank. The water level in the septic tank should always be at or below the level of the drain pipe that connects the tank to the leaching field.
It is thus required to determine whether the soil has been saturated as a result of recent high rainfall or snowmelt, as well as to determine whether there has been a recent hydraulic overload.
This might explain why the water level is greater than usual. However, if the situation persists, we can conclude that the leaching bed is no longer operating correctly (it is most likely clogged).
Greener and taller grass around the drainfield
A sign that your leach field is not operating correctly is the presence of higher, greener grass in the area where it’s supposed to be placed. When wastewater is unable to penetrate the soil, pressure can force it to rise to the surface, causing it to become visible. Because of the nutrients in the wastewater, the grass might grow more quickly and seem greener as a result of this.
Puddles of water in the yard
Puddles on the field may indicate that a hydraulic overload has forced water to come to the surface. If this is the case, contact the field superintendent immediately. When a leach field becomes blocked, the pressure builds up, forcing the water to rise. Large amounts of wastewater can practically pool on the ground when released into the environment. If the water smells like rotten eggs, avoid touching it and keep your children away from the area until the scent has been eliminated. There have been instances where perforated pipes in the leach field have either disconnected or broken.
Otherwise, a blockage is more likely to be the source of the problem.
Soil sinking or collapsing over the leachfield
The presence of excessively damp soil where the leaching bed is placed may also be an indicator that the leaching bed is no longer performing effectively, according to the manufacturer.
How to unclog your leach field?
When you find an issue with your leaching bed, you should make an attempt to fix it as quickly as possible. If this is not done, the condition may worsen and result in wastewater overflows. Those spills are potentially hazardous to both you and the environment. Also prohibited is the pollution of the environment, and local authorities may order you to replace your septic system if you fail to comply with the law. In addition to promoting the growth of biomat, as previously described, the discharge of organic particles into the leaching bed generates an imbalance in the natural water filtration system.
- As a consequence, a waterproof biomaterial sludge is formed, and this sludge significantly reduces the rate of infiltration of wastewater into the receiving soil, which is abnormal.
- Because of this, it is necessary to minimize the accumulation of organic matter in leaching fields and to reduce the thickness of the sludge layer that clogs the leaching fields.
- However, the one offered by Bio-Sol is without a doubt the quickest, easiest, safest, and most ECONOMIC method available!
- These shock treatments are 100 percent environmentally friendly (and hence safe), and they are simple to do on your own.
- It is typically necessary to introduce a high concentration of these bacteria and enzymes into the leaching bed in order to break down the organic waste that has collected in the leaching bed and unclog the leach field.
- The result is that your septic system is back in operating order!
The majority of the time, this occurs when a large truck passes by. Is this anything that has happened recently? If this is the case, you should use a camera to evaluate the area to ensure that there is no structural damage. If this is not the case, the septic system will need to be updated.
How much does a new leach field cost?
Choosing to repair your leaching bed will almost certainly necessitate the replacement of your complete septic system as well. You will require a fresh percolation test as well as an appraisal by an engineer with appropriate qualifications. When using a standard septic system, you may expect to pay between $5,000 and $12,500 for the installation and maintenance. However, if you require the installation of a more sophisticated system, the cost of the replacement will be significantly higher (between $15,000 and $30,000).
As a result, we highly recommend you to attempt to resolve the problem first by selecting one of the alternative options that have been provided.
PROMOTION TO ASSIST YOU IN UNCLOGGING YOUR LEACH FIELD: By visiting our monthly specials page, you can receive a discount on a shock treatment.
A blocked leach field will jeopardize the integrity of the entire system. It can result in sewage backups in the house, septic smells, sewage leaking on the yard, and groundwater contamination, among other problems. Unclogging your leachfield with shock treatment can help you to avoid these and other problems associated with leachfield failure in the future. It is the injection of billions of bacteria and enzymes into the sewage system through the use of biological additives that is known as shock treatment.
This septic-safe solution from Bio-Sol is manufactured from bacteria and enzymes, and it will clear your leach field without harming the bacteria or enzymes in your system.
How Long Does A DeLand Leach Field Last?
If you are thinking about building a septic system, the first step in the process is to have a site study performed on your property. A DeLand leach field inspection provides us with a better understanding of how we will need to place a septic tank and leach field (also known as a drain field) on your property in order to properly treat the waste. Because no two septic systems are alike, it’s critical that your system be customized to your specific property’s requirements.
Customizing Your Drain Field
Customizing your drain field to meet your specific requirements will increase the system’s life expectancy. The life expectancy of your DeLand leach field is determined by three primary factors: 1) The total area of the drain field (also known as the drain field size). 2) The frequency with which it will be utilized. 3) As well as the rate at which water travels through the soil. A large, properly managed drain field can endure for up to 50 years or even longer with adequate maintenance.
Why Did My Drain Field Fail?
There are a variety of reasons why a DeLand leach field may fail, the most common of which is because it was poorly built. Having over 30 years of expertise building septic tank systems, Acme Environmental Services is the company to call.
As a result, we make it our duty to establish your drain field properly so that your yard does not wind up looking like the scene from the movie “Meet the Parents.” Yikes! There are a variety of other reasons why your leach field can fail, including:
- Age – If you’ve recently purchased a home, it’s critical that you understand how old the drain field is before you begin to use it. You may consider having an expert come out and assess the condition if it’s getting on in years. DeLand leach fields can fail if they are not properly maintained, which can happen if they are not properly maintained. We recommend that you get your septic system cleaned every one to three years. Natural calamities, like as tornadoes or earthquakes, can do significant damage to your leach field and require immediate attention. Even a small amount of extra weight on the pipes might cause harm. Make sure you are aware of the location of your drain field and prevent parking, driving, and constructing in the surrounding area.
You have come to the right place if you’re looking for a professional to install a DeLand leach field. Our first aim is to ensure that your septic system continues to operate at peak performance for the duration of its useful life. Our high-quality repair, cleaning, maintenance, and inspection services have benefitted a large number of consumers in the Central Florida area. Please contact us immediately to schedule an appointment and receive a free estimate.
Guide to Installing Septic Drainfield Piping on steep slopes
- Send us a question or make a comment about how to construct a septic system on a steeply sloping lot.
InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Septic systems with steep slopes are known as steep slope drainfield systems. A septic drainfield or leach line is described in this article, which is applicable to tough terrain, such as steep slopes, where a property dispose of wastewater using an aseptic tank and a drainfield. We also have anARTICLE INDEX for this topic, and you can use the SEARCH BOXes at the top and bottom of the page to obtain the information you need quickly and easily.
Guide to Septic Installations on Steep Slopes or Stepped Slopes
Sewer or septic line installation on steep sites is also covered, and for those who are inspecting or testing their septic system, DIFFICULT SEPTIC SITES is another good resource to consult. Technical reviewers are encouraged to participate and are noted under “References.” Allowable uses of this content include making a reference to this website and providing a brief quotation for the sole purpose of review. The author retains the right to use this content on other websites, in books, or in pamphlets that are available for purchase.
Apart from this text (which may be found below), readers interested in septic installation guidance for steeply sloping or rolling sites should study the following articles:
- THE INSTALLATION OF Sewage OR SEPTIC LINES ON STEEP SITES is a term that refers to the installation of sewer or septic line pipes connecting a structure to its septic tank or sewer main on steep sites that slope down substantially between the structure and the septic tank. SYSTEMS DE DOSAGE For hilly sites where the drainfield must be located either uphill or downhill from a septic tank or structure, PRESSURE is a term that refers to pressure dosing systems that may be beneficial for disposing of sewage. GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS – Other gravelless systems are capable of handling mild bends required to follow rolling slope lines
- However, some gravelless systems are not. Sewage pumps, sewage ejector pumps, grinder pumps, effluent pumps, sump pumps, septic pumping stations, and sewer pump alarms are examples of systems that will be required if the building or septic tank is located below the drainfield or sewer main. Installation of septic drainfields on steep or undulating terrain is described in detail in STEEP SLOPE DESIGNS(text found immediately below)
Guide to Installing Steep Slope Septic Drainfield Systems
The sketch at the top of the page illustrates one strategy for installing septic drainfields on a steep or rolling slope. Septic tank and seepage pit systems are seen in the photo above, which is placed in the flat region below the hillside and connected to a sewer line running down the steep slope. The question becomes, however, what to do when the septic effluent absorption system or soakbed itself must be placed down a steep hillside. Here are some details about the product.
- Septic systems with a D-box for steep slopes: When septic effluent is clarified, it is discharged from the septic tank (or an effluent pumping station) and directed into a big distribution box. A larger D-box with more connection ports will be required than those used for a standard flat-area drainfield since each effluent line that will be installed across the hillside will need to be connected directly to the D-box. Separate effluent lines for steep slope septics are required: Individual septic effluent drain lines are connected to the distribution box, and each of these drain lines is directed to a separate gravel trench and perforated drainfield. Feeder pipes for effluent lines in steep slope septic systems include the following: It is not perforated, but rather solid pipe that connects the distribution box to the drainfield trench. Effluent lines for hillside or rolling land drainfields are placed along the slope, not uphill or downhill, and sloping gently (1/8″ to 1/4″ per linear foot) from the inlet end of each drainfield trench to the lowest point of the drainfield trenches.
Installing Septic Drainfield Piping on Steep Slopes Located Downhill from the Septic Tank – Rolling Land
- For steep slope septics, flexible distribution pipe or gravelless systems are recommended: Because flexible effluent lines may be routed in a trench that must be curved in order to remain parallel to the fall line of the slope of rounded hilltops or rolling ground, flexible piping may be more convenient to construct than rigid pipe systems in areas where the land is rolling or contoured. Dosing with high pressure for steep slope septic systems: Septic effluent handling methods, such as pressure distribution systems, may be more forgiving of installation on steep or uneven sloping ground, and they may use rigid or flexible perforated pipe, depending on the application. Pressurized Septic Systems (also known as Pressure Dosing Septic Systems)
- For septic system effluent dispersal, drip lines—which employ flexible distribution piping—might also be effective on some steep locations. Some aerobic systems that dispose of effluent using drip systems or spray systems, or that feed drip irrigation systems, can solve the problem of steep slope septic effluent disposal, according to the manufacturer. AEROBIC SEPTIC SYSTEMS, ATUs, ATUs-home Alternatively, see DESIGN AND INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR HOOT AEROBIC SYSTEMS DRIP DISPOSAL Alternatively, see “Guidance for the Design, Installation, and Operation of Subsurface Drip Distribution Systems as a Replacement for Conventional Title 5 Soil Absorption Systems for the Disposal of Septic Tank Effluent,” published by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection in 2006, which rewrites the state’s 310 CMR 15.240, 15.242, 15.247, and 15.280-15.289 regulations. Graywater disposal systems also include designs that can assist with effluent of graywater GREYWATER SYSTEMS are discussed more below.
Why Drainfield Effluent lines need to be properly sloped
Septic drainfields that use gravity to treat and dispose of cleared wastewater effluent must be correctly pitched and never slope too steeply to ensure effective operation. If this is not done, effluent will flow too fast to the low end of the drainfield line and gravel trench, where it is likely to simply break out onto the surface of the land. If you need to build a traditional perforated pipe and gravel trench drainfield on a steep slope, you’ll need to run the trenches parallel to the fall line or down the slope itself, descending down the slope from trench to trench as you go.
Steep Slope Septic Design Research
- Gustafson, David M., James L. Anderson, Sara F. Heger, and Barbara W. Liukkonen published a paper in which they discussed their findings. Making the decision to install an alternative septic system on a home site with a steep incline (2000). Retrieved on March 30, 2021, from the University of Minnesota Extension. source at the time of publication:
Reader CommentsQ A
On the 25th of May in the year 2020, by (mod) – Is it possible to have the leach lines for a septic tank go uphill from the tank? Although it is possible to place the drainfield above the septic tank, an effluent pumping system will be required. This is an excerpt from the previous remark. This is where the leach line will be put, as opposed to the lower level, where the septic system is buried. When you see the house, it will be on top of this embankment, on the right side of the house, as you approach.
- Do you think there will be any issues with this setup, and how long will a pump survive for this system, given that it is not built at the same level as an ordinary septic system?
- When installing a septic system, may the leach area be constructed on an embankment behind the home?
- The height of the embankment is equal to the top of the roof of the single-story home that is being constructed.
- Because the leach area is located on a steep slope away from the septic system, how often will the pump need to be rebuilt and how expensive will this procedure be in the long run of owning your property be?
- Essentially, you must maintain a slope of 1/8 to 1/4 inch every foot of horizontal flow in order to prevent all effluent from instantly rushing to the end of the system and overloading it.
- Steve We are therefore discharging sewage into the environment throughout the winter; I agree that diverting surface runoff away from the drainfield could be a good idea.
If none of these options work, we (and by we, I mean you) may have to resort to a raised bed or mound septic system.
The drain field is located on a level part of a hill with a width of around 60 feet.
Should a french drain be installed in the flat area uphill from a drain field in order to sort of isolate the drain field and make it more or less operate as a mound at that point in time?
Thank you, Kelly.
This will ensure that the bottom of your drain field or effluent disposal system has enough soil beneath it that the affluent does not simply hit rock and flow down The Rock and into the lake.
A septic system is being considered for installation on an island that is largely solidrock (Canadian Shield) and slopes into a body of water (Lake Superior) (5 percent to 25 percent gradient in places).
How dependable would a septic system be under these circumstances and what are the difficulties I should be aware of?
How long do you think this system will be able to work before it breaks down?
What is the highest topographic slope that may be accommodated in a septic field servicing a single family property in Frederick County, Maryland?
Thank you so much for your rapid response.
Your solution requires me to install six drop boxes across a 100-foot distance!
A sewage pipe that is excessively steep may cause water to flow too quickly, leaving particles behind.
When using a stepped line method, it is preferable to make each turn through a D box to allow for easier cleaning access.
This is my problem: I’m putting a bathroom and kitchenette in my remote 2400 square foot woodworking shop, which I’m now in the midst of constructing.
I work as a carpenter, mason, and builder.
For the pre-existing septic tank, I have around 20′ of fall and approximately 100′ of run.
The house has been put on hold (waiting for more money).
I don’t live on the construction site, and it appears that it will be several years before I can begin construction on the house.
“the sewage line down to the septic tank should be laid out in a step-wise fashion?
Besides being built on granite bedrock, the septic tank and effluent pump to a drain field are situated on the property to fulfill both perc test criteria and to maintain a minimum distance of 100 feet from a river.
When not attached directly to bedrock, frost footings must have a minimum depth of 5′ to be considered.
Another concern is the presence of black water.
There will be a cleanout installed at the point where the pipe breaks through the foundation wall.
Steve, It’s amazing to read of drainfields that are more than 50 years old and are still in good working order, but I’ve seen a few myself, including a sophisticated system erected on an estate about 1920.
When a system is “functioning,” it implies that it appears to be effectively disposing of effluent – that is, there are no damp spots on the ground.
Nevertheless, in the absence of any failure data, almost no one would dig up and interfere with a drainfield.
It would be beneficial to include more specifics in this section.
Many of these were placed as long as 50 years ago and are still in good working order.
Diverse considerations, including the existence of impermeable strata, seasonal ground water, and slope stability, must be given careful attention.
This was quite beneficial.
It was, without a doubt, pricey.
I figured I’d best include this: Because the drainfield location will be well down-slope from the construction site and tank, a gravity-fed system or a syphon system may be employed.
Standard drain fields are not permitted on slopes more than 25 percent in my area.
This is excellent information.
I have a building site that is on a 24 percent to 30 percent slope. STEEP SITE INSTALLATION OF A SEWER OR SEPTIC LINE CONTINUES READING Alternatively, choose a topic from the closely related articles listed below, or browse the entireARTICLE INDEX. Alternatively, consider the following:
Steep Slope Septic System Articles
- SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
- SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN ALTERNATIVES-home
- SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN BASICS-home
- SEWER / SEPTIC LINES at STEEP SITES
- STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS
- SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
- SEPTIC CONSULT
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SEPTIC DESIGNS WITH A HIGH SLOPE AT INSPECTION An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.
INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS
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Citations can be shown or hidden by selecting Show or Hide Citations. InspectApedia.com is a publisher that provides references. Daniel Friedman is an American journalist and author.