How Does A Dual Tank Septic System Wiring? (Best solution)

septictankpro.com

• Connect the wires coming from the floats to the terminals in the control panel. Refer to the appropriate float arrangement diagram for the correct terminal connections for your system. 2. Connect the wires coming from the pumps to the pump terminals. Refer to the panel wiring diagram for the correct terminal connections for your system.

How does a lateral line septic system work?

Septic tank lateral lines are also known as percolation pipes. These are the perforated pipes that extend from the outlet of the septic tank below ground into the soil. The purpose of these lateral lines is to provide a network of pipes that the effluent from the septic tank runs through.

How do you hook up two septic tanks?

Use a 4-inch pipe to connect the two septic tanks. Place this pipe into the inlet hole of your new septic tank before you lower it into the ground. After you’ve lowered your new septic tank, insert the other end of the pipe into your old septic tank’s outlet hole.

Why do septic tanks have two compartments?

If you are installing a new system or upgrading an existing one with a new tank, a two-compartment tank offers several advantages. The vertical wall positioned about two-thirds from the tank inlet helps trap solids more effectively and offers better protection of the drainfield.

Do you need to pump both sides of a septic tank?

Septic tanks installed after the late 1980s have two compartments, and it is important to pump out both compartments each time. Most homeowners are unaware when their septic tank has two compartments; some companies use that to their advantage, charging to pump both sides of the tank but only actually pumping out one.

Why is the red light on my septic tank on?

The red light indicates the alarm is receiving a signal from the pump tank that the water level is rising higher or is dropping lower than it should be. Let the septic system run a couple of pump cycles (should last about 10-15 hours) and the red light on the alarm box may go out on its own.

How deep are septic lateral lines?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

What does lateral lines look like?

Lateral lines are usually visible as faint lines of pores running lengthwise down each side, from the vicinity of the gill covers to the base of the tail. Most amphibian larvae and some fully aquatic adult amphibians possess mechanosensitive systems comparable to the lateral line.

Can you clean out lateral lines?

You can choose from a couple common tools to flush these pipes. Another tool you can use is a water jet. This flexible hose is inserted into each of the septic tank laterals and high water pressure blasts through clogged debris. Moving the hose further along the line will simultaneously unclog and clean it.

Can you put two septic tanks together?

Yes, and the reason a second tank and drainfield is necessary usually has nothing to do with providing additional gallons of tank capacity. Also, it is now possible to install a buried holding tank and electric pump, called a “grinder pump,” to extend the range of the drain line as an alternative to a second tank.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

What is a dual compartment septic tank?

A dual compartment septic tank has two compartments. The first is usually longer, about twice as large as the second compartment. One of the disadvantages is that a dual compartment septic tank needed to be pumped more frequently.

How Does a Septic Tank Work?

Mr. Fix-It-Up-For-The-Family You may save a lot of money if you understand how a sewage treatment system works—and what can go wrong—so that you can handle your own septic system maintenance.

How does a septic tank work?

Pumping the tank on a regular basis eliminates sludge and scum, which helps to keep a septic system in good working order. It is possible for a well-designed and well built septic system to last for decades, or it might collapse in a matter of years. It is entirely up to you as long as you can answer the question of how do septic tanks function. Healthy septic systems are very inexpensive to maintain, but digging up and replacing a septic system that has completely collapsed may easily cost tens of thousands in labor and material costs.

It’s critical to understand how a septic tank works in order to maintain one.

Let’s take a look below ground and observe what happens in a properly operating septic system, shall we?

Understand that a septic system is a cafeteria for bacteria

Bacteria are responsible for the proper operation of a septic system. They decompose garbage, resulting in water that is clean enough to safely trickle down into the earth’s surface. The entire system is set up to keep bacteria healthy and busy at all times. Some of them reside in the tank, but the majority of them are found in the drain field. 1. The septic tank is the final destination for all waste. 2. The majority of the tank is filled with watery waste, referred to as “effluent.” Anaerobic bacteria begin to break down the organic matter in the effluent as soon as it enters the system.

1. A layer of sludge settles to the bottom of the container.
2. 4.
3. Scum is mostly constituted of fats, greases, and oils, among other substances.
4. Grease and oils float to the surface of the water.
5. (5) A filter stops the majority of particles from reaching the exit pipe.
6. The effluent is discharged into the drain field.
7. Effluent is allowed to leak into the surrounding gravel because of holes in the drain septic field pipe.
8. The garbage is completely decomposed by aerobic bacteria found in gravel and dirt.
9. Potable water seeps into the groundwater and aquifer system from the surface.

Septic Tank Clean Out: Don’t abuse the system

Septic systems that have been correctly planned and constructed require just occasional ‘pumping’ to remove the sludge and scum that has built up inside the tank.

However, if you don’t understand how a septic tank works, you may unintentionally hurt or even destroy the system.

• Drains are used to dispose of waste that decomposes slowly (or not at all). Cigarette butts, diapers, and coffee grounds are all known to cause issues. Garbage disposers, if utilized excessively, can introduce an excessive amount of solid waste into the system. Lint from synthetic fibers is emitted from washing machine lint traps. This substance is not degraded by bacteria in the tank and drain septic field. Bacteria are killed by chemicals found in the home, such as disinfecting cleansers and antibacterial soaps. The majority of systems are capable of withstanding limited usage of these goods, but the less you use them, the better. When a large amount of wastewater is produced in a short period of time, the tank is flushed away too quickly. When there is too much sludge, bacteria’s capacity to break down waste is reduced. Sludge can also overflow into the drain field if there is too much of it. Sludge or scum obstructs the flow of water via a pipe. It is possible for tree and shrub roots to obstruct and cause harm to a drain field. Compacted soil and gravel prevent wastewater from seeping into the ground and deprive germs of oxygen. Most of the time, this is caused by vehicles driving or parking on the drain field.

Get your tank pumped…

Your tank must be emptied on a regular basis by a professional. Pumping eliminates the accumulation of sludge and scum that has accumulated in the tank, which has caused the bacterial action to be slowed. If you have a large tank, it may be necessary to pump it once a year; but, depending on the size of your tank and the quantity of waste you send through the system, you may go two or three years between pumpings. Inquire with your inspector about an approximate guideline for how frequently your tank should be pumped.

…but don’t hire a pumper until you need it

Inspections and pumping should be performed on a regular basis. However, if you’re not afraid of getting your hands dirty, you may verify the sludge level yourself with a gadget known as The Sludge Judge. It ranges in price from $100 to $125 and is commonly accessible on the internet. Once you’ve verified that your tank is one-third full with sludge, you should contact a professional to come out and pump it out completely.

Install an effluent filter in your septic system

Garbage from your home accumulates into three distinct strata. The septic filter is responsible for preventing blockage of the drain field pipes.

Septic tank filter close-up

The septic tank filter is responsible for capturing suspended particles that may otherwise block the drain field pipes. Obtain an effluent filter for your tank from your contractor and place it on the outflow pipe of your tank. (It will most likely cost between $50 and $100, plus labor.) This device, which helps to prevent sediments from entering the drain field, will need to be cleaned out on a regular basis by a contractor to maintain its effectiveness.

Solution for a clogged septic system

If your septic system becomes clogged and you find yourself having to clean the filter on a regular basis, you might be tempted to simply remove the filter altogether. Hold on to it. Solids, wastewater, and scum are separated into three levels in septic tanks, which allows them to function properly (see illustration above). Solids sink to the bottom of the container, where microbes breakdown them. The scum, which is made up of trash that is lighter than water, rises to the surface. In the drainage field, the middle layer of effluent leaves the tank and goes through an underground network of perforated pipes to the drainage field.

1. Keep the effluent filter in place since it is required by your state’s health law.
2. Waste particles might flow through the filter and clog the perforated pipes if the filter is not used.
3. Your filter, on the other hand, should not require cleaning every six months.
4. A good chance is high that you’re flushing filter-clogging things down the toilet, such as grease, fat, or food scraps.
5. A garbage disposal will not be able to break down food particles sufficiently to allow them to flow through the septic tank filtration system.
6. Plastic items, disposable diapers, paper towels, nonbiodegradable goods, and tobacco products will clog the system if they are flushed through it.

For additional information on what should and should not be flushed down the toilet, contact your local health authority. More information on removing lint from your laundry may be found here.

Get an inspection

Following a comprehensive first check performed by an expert, regular inspections will cost less than $100 each inspection for the next year. Your professional will be able to inform you how often you should get your system inspected as well as how a septic tank functions. As straightforward as a septic system appears, determining its overall condition necessitates the services of a professional. There are a plethora of contractors who would gladly pump the sludge out of your tank, but many, in my experience, are unable to explain how a septic system works or how it should be maintained.

A certification scheme for septic contractors has been established in certain states; check with your state’s Secretary of State’s office to see whether yours is one of them.

Also, a qualified inspector will be able to tell you whether or not your tank is large enough to accommodate your household’s needs, as well as the maximum amount of water that can be passed through it in a single day.

As you learn more about how a septic tank works, your professional should be able to tell you whether or not your system will benefit from this treatment.

Alternatives to a new drain field

If an examination or a sewage backup indicate that your drain field is in need of replacement, the only option is to replace it completely. As a result, it’s important to talk with a contractor about other possibilities before proceeding with the project.

• If an examination or a sewage backup indicate that your drain field is in need of replacement, the only option is to replace it completely. A contractor should be consulted about alternative possibilities because the costs might be quite expensive.

Protect your drain septic field from lint

When this device is in place, it inhibits lint from entering the system, especially synthetic fibers that bacteria are unable to digest. One of these filters, which I’ve designed and termed theSeptic Protector, was invented by me. An additional filter is included in the price of around $150 plus delivery. Learn more about how to filter out laundry lint in this article.

Don’t overload the septic system

Reduce the amount of water you use. The volume of water that flows into your tank, particularly over a short period of time, can be reduced to avoid untreated waste from being flushed into your drain field. Replace outdated toilets with low-flow ones, install low-flow showerheads, and, perhaps most importantly, wash laundry throughout the week rather than just on Saturday mornings to save water.

Meet the Expert

Septic systems, according to Jim vonMeier, are the solution to America’s water deficit because they supply cleaned water to depleted aquifers, according to vonMeier. He travels the country lobbying for septic systems, giving lectures, and giving testimony. For septic system inquiries, as well as information on the operation of the septic tank, contact him by email.

Types of Septic Systems

Septic system design and size can differ significantly from one neighborhood to the next, as well as throughout the country, due to a variety of variables. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, closeness to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all considerations to take into consideration.

The following are 10 of the most often encountered septic system configurations. It should be noted that this is not an exhaustive list; there are several additional types of septic systems.

• Septic Tank, Conventional System, Chamber System, Drip Distribution System, Aerobic Treatment Unit, Mound Systems, Recirculating Sand Filter System, Evapotranspiration System, Constructed Wetland System, Cluster / Community System, etc.

Septic Tank

This tank is underground and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for receiving and partially treating raw home sanitary wastewater. Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whereas greases and lighter solids float to the surface. The sediments are retained in the tank, while the wastewater is sent to the drainfield for further treatment and dispersion once it has been treated.

Conventional System

Septic tanks and trench or bed subsurface wastewater infiltration systems are two types of decentralized wastewater treatment systems (drainfield). When it comes to single-family homes and small businesses, a traditional septic system is the most common type of system. For decades, people have used a gravel/stone drainfield as a method of water drainage. The term is derived from the process of constructing the drainfield. A short underground trench made of stone or gravel collects wastewater from the septic tank in this configuration, which is commonly used.

Effluent filters through the stone and is further cleaned by microorganisms once it reaches the soil below the gravel/stone trench, which is located below the trench.

Chamber System

Gravelless drainfields have been regularly utilized in various states for more than 30 years and have evolved into a standard technology that has mostly replaced gravel systems. Various configurations are possible, including open-bottom chambers, pipe that has been clothed, and synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene media. Gravelless systems can be constructed entirely of recycled materials, resulting in considerable reductions in carbon dioxide emissions during their lifetime. The chamber system is a type of gravelless system that can be used as an example.

• The key advantage of the chamber system is the enhanced simplicity with which it can be delivered and built.
• This sort of system is made up of a number of chambers that are connected to one another.
• Wastewater is transported from the septic tank to the chambers through pipes.
• The wastewater is treated by microbes that live on or near the soil.

Drip Distribution System

An effluent dispersal system such as the drip distribution system may be employed in a variety of drainfield configurations and is very versatile. In comparison to other distribution systems, the drip distribution system does not require a vast mound of dirt because the drip laterals are only placed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In addition to requiring a big dosage tank after the sewage treatment plant to handle scheduled dose delivery of wastewater to drip absorption areas, the drip distribution system has one major disadvantage: it is more expensive.

This method necessitates the use of additional components, such as electrical power, which results in a rise in costs as well as higher maintenance.

Aerobic Treatment Unit

Aerobic Treatment Units (ATUs) are small-scale wastewater treatment facilities that employ many of the same procedures as a municipal sewage plant. An aerobic system adds oxygen to the treatment tank using a pump. When there is an increase in oxygen in the system, there is an increase in natural bacterial activity, which then offers extra treatment for nutrients in the effluent. It is possible that certain aerobic systems may additionally include a pretreatment tank as well as a final treatment tank that will include disinfection in order to further lower pathogen levels.

ATUs should be maintained on a regular basis during their service life.

Mound Systems

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock might be a good alternative. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was erected. The effluent from the septic tank runs into a pump chamber, where it is pumped to the mound in the amounts recommended. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it continues to be treated. However, while mound systems can be an effective solution for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular care.

Recirculating Sand Filter System

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock can be a good solution. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was built. Wastewater from the septic tank goes into a pump chamber, where it is pushed to the mound in preset quantities by a pump. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it undergoes treatment. While mound systems can be a viable option for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular maintenance to function properly.

Evapotranspiration System

Evaporative cooling systems feature drainfields that are one-of-a-kind. It is necessary to line the drainfield at the base of the evapotranspiration system with a waterproof material. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the atmosphere. At the same time, the sewage never filters into the soil and never enters groundwater, unlike other septic system designs. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are effective. The environment must be desert, with plenty of heat and sunshine, and no precipitation.

Constructed Wetland System

Construction of a manufactured wetland is intended to simulate the treatment processes that occur in natural wetland areas. Wastewater goes from the septic tank and into the wetland cell, where it is treated. Afterwards, the wastewater goes into the media, where it is cleaned by microorganisms, plants, and other media that eliminate pathogens and nutrients. Typically, a wetland cell is constructed with an impermeable liner, gravel and sand fill, and the necessary wetland plants, all of which must be capable of withstanding the constant saturation of the surrounding environment.

The operation of a wetland system can be accomplished by either gravity flow or pressure distribution. As wastewater travels through the wetland, it may escape the wetland and flow onto a drainfield, where it will undergo more wastewater treatment before being absorbed into the soil by bacteria.

Cluster / Community System

In certain cases, a decentralized wastewater treatment system is owned by a group of people and is responsible for collecting wastewater from two or more residences or buildings and transporting it to a treatment and dispersal system placed on a suitable location near the dwellings or buildings. Cluster systems are widespread in settings like rural subdivisions, where they may be found in large numbers.

A Beginner’s Guide to Septic Systems

• Septic systems are used to dispose of waste from homes and buildings. Identifying the location of the septic tank and drainfield
• What a Septic System Is and How It Works Keeping a Septic System in Good Condition
• Signs that a septic system is failing include:

Septic systems, also known as on-site wastewater management systems, are installed in a large number of buildings and houses. It is easy to lose sight of septic systems, which operate quietly, gracefully, and efficiently to protect human and environmental health due to their burying location. Septic systems are the norm in rural regions, but they may also be found in a lot of metropolitan places, especially in older buildings. It is critical to understand whether or not your building is on a septic system.

Is Your Home or Building on a Septic System?

It is possible that the solution to this question will not be evident. If a structure looks to be connected to a sewage system, it may instead be connected to a septic system. It is fairly unusual for tenants to be unaware of the final destination of the wastewater generated by their residence. Some of the hints or signs listed below will assist in determining whether the facility is served by a septic system or whether it is supplied by a sewer system:

• Sewer service will be provided at a cost by the city or municipality. Pay close attention to the water bill to see whether there is a cost labeled “sewer” or “sewer charge” on it. If there is a fee for this service, it is most likely because the facility is connected to a sewage system. Look up and down the street for sewage access ports or manholes, which can be found in any location. If a sewage system runs in front of a property, it is probable that the house is connected to it in some way. Inquire with your neighbors to see if they are connected to a sewer or septic system. The likelihood that your home is on a sewer system is increased if the properties on each side of you are on one as well. Keep in mind, however, that even if a sewage line runs in front of the structure and the nearby residences are connected to a sewer system, your home or building may not be connected to one. If the structure is older than the sewer system, it is possible that it is still on the original septic system. Consult with your local health agency for further information. This agency conducts final inspections of septic systems to ensure that they comply with applicable laws and regulations. There is a possibility that they have an archived record and/or a map of the system and will supply this information upon request

All property owners should be aware of whether or not their property is equipped with an on-site wastewater treatment system. Georgia law mandates that the property owner is responsible for the correct operation of a septic system, as well as any necessary maintenance and repairs.

Locating the Septic Tank and Drainfield

Finding a septic system may be a difficult process. They can be buried anywhere in the yard, including the front, back, and side yards. After a few years, the soil may begin to resemble the surrounding soil, making it impossible to distinguish the system from the surrounding soil. It is possible that in dry weather, the grass will be dryer in the shallow soil over the tank and greener over the drainfield, where the cleansed water will be released, but this is not always the case, especially in hot weather.

• The contractor who built the house should have presented the initial owner with a map showing the tank and drainfield locations, according to the building code.
• The installation of the system, as well as any modifications made to it, would have been examined by your local health authority.
• Unfortunately, if the system is very old, any records related with it may be insufficient or nonexistent, depending on the situation.
• Look for the point at where the wastewater pipes join together if the building is on a crawlspace or has an unfinished basement.
• The sewer line that runs through the structure is referred to as the building sewer.
• To “feel” for the tank, use a piece of re-bar or a similar metal probe.
• If you use this free service, you may avoid accidentally putting a rod through your gas or water line.

Try to locate the tank after a rainstorm, when the metal probe will be more easily maneuvered through moist dirt.

This should be done with care; extreme caution should be exercised to avoid puncturing the building sewer.

A tank is normally 5 by 8 feet in size, however the dimensions might vary.

Be aware that there may be rocks, pipes, and other debris in the area that “feels” like the tank but is not in fact part of the tank.

However, it is possible to have the lid or access port positioned on a riser in addition to being on the same level as the top of the tank in some cases.

Once the tank has been identified, make a rough drawing of its placement in relation to the house so that it will not be misplaced again!

It may be easier to discover the drainage lines now that the tank has been identified, particularly if the area has been subjected to prolonged periods of drought.

How a Septic System Works

Typical sewage treatment system (figure 1). It is composed of three components (Figure 1): the tank, the drain lines or discharge lines, and the soil treatment area (also known as the soil treatment area) (sometimes called a drainfield or leach field). The size of the tank varies according to the size of the structure. The normal home (three bedrooms, two bathrooms) will often include a 1,000-gallon water storage tank on the premises. Older tanks may only have one chamber, however newer tanks must have two chambers.

1. The tank functions by settling waste and allowing it to be digested by microbes.
2. These layers include the bottom sludge layer, the top scum layer, and a “clear” zone in the center.
3. A typical septic tank is seen in Figure 2.
4. It is fortunate that many of the bacteria involved are found in high concentrations in the human gastrointestinal tract.
5. Although the bacteria may break down some of the stuff in the sludge, they are unable to break down all of it, which is why septic tanks must be cleaned out every three to seven years.
6. In addition, when new water is introduced into the septic tank, an equal volume of water is pushed out the discharge lines and onto the drainfield.
7. The water trickles out of the perforated drain pipes, down through a layer of gravel, and into the soil below the surface (Figure 3).
8. A typical drainfield may be found here.
9. Plants, bacteria, fungus, protozoa, and other microorganisms, as well as bigger critters such as mites, earthworms, and insects, flourish in soil.
10. Mineralogical and metallic elements attach to soil particles, allowing them to be removed from the waste water.

Maintaining a Septic System

The most typical reason for a septic system to fail is a lack of proper maintenance. Septic systems that are failing are expensive to repair or replace, and the expense of repairs rests on the shoulders of the property owner (Figure 4). Fortunately, keeping your septic system in good working order and avoiding costly repairs is rather simple. Figure 4. Septic system failure is frequently caused by a lack of proper maintenance. It is in your best interests to be aware of the location of the system, how it operates, and how to maintain it.

1. You should pump the tank if you aren’t sure when the last time it was pumped.
2. It is not permissible to drive or park over the tank or drainage field.
3. No rubbish should be disposed of in the sink or the toilet.
4. It’s important to remember that garbage disposals enhance the requirement for regular pumping.
5. When designing a landscape, keep the septic system in mind.
6. It is also not recommended to consume veggies that have been cultivated above drainfield lines (see Dorn, S.
7. Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields.

C 1030).

Any water that enters your home through a drain or toilet eventually ends up in your septic system.

Don’t put too much strain on the system by consuming a large amount of water in a short period of time.

Additives should not be used.

Various types of additives are available for purchase as treatment options, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenator and boosters, among other things.

To break up oil and grease and unclog drains, chemical additives are available for purchase.

Pumping out the septic tank is not eliminated or reduced by using one of these systems.

They remain floating in the water and travel into the drainfield, where they may block the pipes. Acids have the potential to damage concrete storage tanks and distribution boxes.

Signs a Septic System is Failing

A failed system manifests itself in the following ways:

• Sinks and toilets drain at a snail’s pace
• Plumbing that is backed up
• The sound of gurgling emanating from the plumbing system House or yard aromas that smell like sewage
• In the yard, there is wet or squishy dirt
• Water that is gray in hue that has accumulated
• An region of the yard where the grass is growing more quickly and is becoming greener
• Water contaminated by bacteria from a well

If you notice any of these indicators, you should notify your local health department immediately. An environmentalist from the health department can assist in identifying possible hazards. There are also listings of state-certified contractors available from the local health department, who may do repairs. Repairs or alterations to the system must be approved by the health department and examined by an inspector. Keep an eye out for any meetings that may take place between a health department inspector and a contractor to discuss repairs to your system.

• Household garbage that has not been properly handled is released into the environment when systems fail.
• It has the potential to pollute surrounding wells, groundwater, streams, and other sources of potable water, among other things.
• The foul odor emanating from a malfunctioning system can cause property values to plummet.
• Briefly stated, broken systems can have an impact on your family, neighbors, community, and the environment.
• Septic systems are an effective, attractive, and reasonably priced method of treating and disposing of wastewater.

Figures 2 and 3 reprinted with permission from: CIDWT. 2009. Installation of Wastewater Treatment Systems. Consortium of Institutes for Decentralized Wastewater Treatment. Iowa State University, Midwest Plan Service. Ames, IA.

History of the current status and revisions Published on the 15th of August, 2013. Published on March 28th, 2017 with a full review.

Why You Might Want a 2-Tank Septic System

Septic tanks are critical to the functioning of your household on a daily basis. When wastewater exits your house, it will be collected in a tank, where it will be broken down and then discharged into a drain field. While traditionally single-compartment septic tanks have been the preferred choice, a two-tank septic system is becoming increasingly common. So, what benefits does a dual septic tank provide that a single septic tank does not? Let’s have a look and see!

What does a 2-Tank Septic System Do?

In contrast to a traditional septic system, the two tanks on a dual septic system are utilized to separate and store blackwater and greywater independently from one another. Urine, fecal matter, and flush water are all examples of what is considered blackwater. Greywater, on the other hand, is the liquid that comes from showers, sinks, and washing machines that is far less pathogenic. This relieves a significant amount of stress off the septic tank as a whole and helps to prevent it from being overcrowded.

A better Removal of Solids and Effluent Quality

Additionally, a 2-tank septic system is more effective at breaking down and eliminating particles when compared to a single tank system. Having an additional treatment area to break down waste and settle the solids can go a long way toward improving the overall quality of your septic system.

On top of that, the vertical wall is positioned in such a way that it traps sediments more efficiently, resulting in improved effluent flow and protection of the drainage field.

How a 2-Tank Septic System Saves You Money

A two-tank septic system not only does a better job of holding and discharging waste, but it may also save you money in the long term. Dual tanks have the natural ability to store more wastewater, which means that you will spend less money on wastewater pumping. Compared to a traditional septic tank, the likelihood of overflowing and damaged pipes is decreased due to the lesser amount of strain that it is subjected to during operation. When you use a standard system, you will not have to deal with the costly repairs that are frequently associated with them.

How Can Norway Septic Help?

Located in Norway, Indiana, Norway Septic Inc. is a customer-focused company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to homes and business owners in the Michiana area. We take great delight in finishing the task that others have left unfinished. For more information on purchasing a new effluent filter or scheduling a septic tank cleaning with one of our specialists, please contact us right now.

Tips For Keeping Your Septic Tank Running

Norway Septic Inc. is a customer-focused company that is committed to offering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to households and business owners in the Michiana community. We take great delight in completing the tasks that others have left unfinished or incomplete. Make an appointment with us immediately if you require a new effluent filter or want to arrange a septic tank cleaning with one of our experienced technicians.

• Toilets: toilets account for 25-30 percent of the total amount of water consumed by a home. Toilets that are more recent in design consume less water than older models. Give us a call right now if your home is equipped with out-of-date toilets! In the long run, your septic system will be grateful to you.

• Sinks: Consider all of the water that goes down your sink every day that isn’t being used. When cleaning dishes, washing their hands, or brushing their teeth, it is usual for homes to leave their water running unattended. Take the initiative and make a change! Make use of the water in your sink just when you need it.

Keep an eye on what you dump down your drains. It is critical to consider what goes down your drains before flushing it. If you find yourself second-guessing an item, it is likely that it is not intended to be flushed down the toilet.

• Grease: While putting grease down your drain may seem like a reasonable choice, it is not recommended. Using grease to clean your pipes and drain field has the potential to clog them! It sounds like something out of a nightmare

• Due to our familiarity with flushing toilet paper down our toilets, we have a propensity to believe that comparable goods such as tissues or wet wipes are also safe to flush. This is because the microorganisms in your septic tank are unable to break down these materials, and they will most likely continue floating in your tank.

Make an appointment for a standard checkup. Septic tanks holding 1,000 gallons or fewer need to be serviced every five years or less. For septic tank maintenance, call us at 804-758-4314 to schedule an appointment with a Miller’s specialist.

How a Septic System Works

The septic system is a sewage treatment and disposal system.A basic system consists of a septic tank and drainage area. All flows from the house are directed by way of a main sewer line to the septic tank. 40% of household sewage is from the toilet, 30% is from bathing, 15% is from laundry and 10% is from the kitchen.

What is a Septic Tank?

The septic tank is a watertight chamber constructed of concrete or poly material. An average size is approximately 1000 gallons to 1500 gallons in capacity. Most septic tanks have one or two compartments. Two compartment tanks, or two single compartment tanks in series, provide better settling of the solids.Each septic tank has an inspection port over each baffle as well as a manhole access port. The manhole lid needs to be accessed for the tank to be pumped. These can be found at or below the ground surface. Typically you will find 4” diameter plastic lids at the ground surface that are the inspection ports over either of the baffles on the tank and not where the tank is to be pumped through.The baffles of the tank are one of the most important components in the septic tank. The inlet baffle forces the wastewater from the sewer line down into the tank instead of across the surface of the tank and into the outlet pipe leading to the absorption area. The outlet baffle prevents the scum layer from moving into the soil absorption area. In a properly functioning septic tank the solids and sludge settle to the bottom and accumulate, scum (lightweight materials including paper, fats and greases) rises to the surface and the effluent (liquid) in the tank existing between those layers overflows to the absorption area.

The absorption area uses the ability of the stone and soil to filter and treat the remaining effluent. Examples of absorption areas are seepage beds, trenches, sand mounds or older cesspools / seepage pits. A cesspool is a block walled dirt bottom pit. Cesspools are no longer an installation choice but there are many properties that still have functioning cesspools. Odors and gasses from the septic system, that are always present, are vented through pipes on the house roof.For further information: -On Lot Sewage System Owner Manual -A Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems – by EPA

How to Wire a Septic Pump Alarm

Home-Diy Septic system alarms notify the homeowner if there is a possibility of a sewage backup. Internally, a float switch that is anchored to a fixed point in the tank floats up and down in response to the level of the liquid in the tank. When the liquid level rises over a certain threshold, a switch inside the float shuts the alarm circuit, resulting in the alarm being activated. When the length of the sources is equal to zero, this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); otherwise, this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace(), ‘, /public/images/logo-fallback.png’) ” loading=”lazy”> ” loading=”lazy”> Septic alarms notify homeowners when there is a problem with their septic system.

While one wire is dedicated to powering the pump, the other is dedicated to the septic pump alarm circuit.

Installation of the alarm float switch is done by septic system contractors on the inside of the septic tank. The connection of the float switch to the alarm circuit is still the responsibility of the homeowner in this case.

• Electrical conduit
• Septic alarm float
• Screwdriver
• Septic alarm with mounting hardware
• Junction box with cover Two wire nuts for wire with a gauge of 12 AWG

Tip

By gently pushing on the wire connections, you can determine whether they are secure. Physically raising the alarm floats to their upright position will allow you to test the alert. The alarm will ring if everything is done correctly.

Warning

A junction box must not be connected to the septic tank via a direct conduit. Gases from the septic tank might seep into the connection box and pose an explosive threat to the surrounding area.

At the Tank

1. Locate the float wires for the alarm system as well as the alarm circuit wires that lead to the home. (They should be clearly labeled.) Push the wires through the electrical conduit and into the junction box as quickly as possible. To assemble the black wires, hold the bare ends of each together and place the pair into a wire nut, twisting it until it is secure. Carry out the same procedure with the white wire and the other wire coming from the float switch
2. Install the junction box lid and tighten it down to hold in all of the electrical wire.

In The Home

1. In a high-traffic area near the incoming septic tank alarm wires as well as an electrical plug-in, install the alarm. Incorporate the mounting screws into the alarm housing by threading them through the mounting holes. Screw the alarm into the wall. Connect the black wire coming from the septic tank alarm circuit to the positive terminal of the alarm system. Connect the white wire to the negative terminal on the circuit breaker. Screw the terminal lugs all the way down until they are tight. The alarm’s power connector should be inserted into the power receptacle.

The Drip Cap

• In a high-traffic area near the incoming septic tank alarm wires as well as an electrical plug-in, install the alarm
• Install the mounting screws by threading them through the mounting holes in the alarm’s casing and screwing them into place on the wall. Connect the black wire coming from the septic tank alarm circuit to the positive terminal on the alarm system. Using the white wire, connect the negative terminal to the power source. The terminal lugs should be snugly screwed down until they are. Plugging in the alarm’s power connector into the power outlet is simple.

Understanding and Maintaining Mound Systems

Many years have passed since septic tanks with gravity flow drainfields were first installed in places that were not served by municipal sewers. Not all soil and site conditions, however, are well suited for the use of these basic methods. Non-standard sewage treatment systems are frequently employed to preserve human health and water quality in regions where regular sewage treatment systems are unable to provide safe sewage treatment. A mound system is a form of non-standard system that delivers the following benefits:

• Cycles for dosing and resting
• Uniform dispersion of effluent a level of sewage treatment that is known
• An increase in the distance that wastewater must travel before it reaches groundwater

The following information will assist you in better understanding your mound system and ensuring that it continues to operate properly and at the lowest feasible cost. A typical mound system is composed of three functional components:

• The sewage treatment plant
• The pump chamber as well as the pump
• The mound, as well as the land designated for its replacement

The Septic Tank

In this case, the septic tank Both the pump chamber and the pump are seen here. Mound and replacement area; the mound and replacement area

Proper Care Includes:

1. Septic tank maintenance should include an inspection once a year and pumping it as necessary. Solids leaking from the septic tank will clog the pump and the mound if the tank is not pumped on a regular basis, which is recommended. Because it increases the quantity of solids entering the tank and necessitates more frequent pumping, the use of a waste disposal is strongly advised. Keeping dangerous materials from being flushed into the septic tank is important. Grass, cooking oils, newspapers and paper towels, cigarette butts and coffee grounds are all prohibited from being disposed of in the tank. Also prohibited are chemicals such as solvents, oils and paint, pesticides and solvents. In order to obtain information on the correct disposal of hazardous home trash, you should contact the Humboldt Waste Management Authority. It is important to avoid the use of any form of chemical or biological septic tank additive. As previously stated, such products are neither necessary nor beneficial to the proper operation of a septic tank, nor do they reduce the need for routine tank pumping.

The Pump Chamber

The pump chamber is a container made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene that collects the effluent from the septic tank. A pump, pump control floats, and a high water warning float are all included within the chamber. Pump activity can be regulated either via the use of control floats or through the use of timed controls. A series of control floats is used to switch the pump “on” and “off” at different levels in order to pump a certain volume of effluent per dose of medication. Using the timer settings, you may create dosages that are both long and short in duration, as well as intervals or rest periods between doses.

If pump timer controls are employed, the alarm will also sound to alert you if there is excessive water use in the home or if there is a leak in the system.

The alarm should be equipped with a buzzer and a bright light that can be seen clearly.

The pump discharge line should be equipped with a union and a valve to facilitate the removal of the pump.

Proper Care Includes:

1. Every year, inspecting the pump chamber, pump, and floats, and replacing or repairing any worn or broken parts is recommended. Pump maintenance should be performed in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications. Corrosion should be checked on electrical components and conduits. If the alarm panel is equipped with a “push-to-test” button, it should be used on a regular basis. If your system does not already have one, you should consider installing a septic tank effluent filter or pump screen. Solids can block the pump and pipes in a septic tank, thus screening or filtering the effluent is an excellent method of avoiding this from happening. It is simple and quick to inspect and clean the filter when it becomes clogged, and it helps to avoid costly damage caused by particulates entering the system. After a protracted power loss or a pump failure, it is necessary to take steps to prevent the mound from being overloaded. After the pump is turned on, effluent will continue to gather in the pump chamber until the pump starts working. When there is more effluent in the chamber, the pump may be forced to dose a volume that is more than the mound’s capacity. It is possible for the plumbing in your home to back up once all of the reserve storage in the chamber has been used up. Reduce your water use to a bare minimum if the pump is not running for more than 6 hours.

The Mound

Once a year, thoroughly inspecting and replacing any worn or damaged parts in the pump chamber, pump, and floats Following the manufacturer’s guidelines should be followed while doing pump maintenance. Keep an eye out for corrosion on electrical components and conduits. This button should be used on a frequent basis if the alarm panel contains a “push-to-test” button. If your system does not already have a septic tank effluent filter or pump screen, you should consider installing one. Solids can block the pump and pipes in a septic tank, thus screening or filtering the effluent is an efficient method of preventing this.

After a protracted power loss or pump failure, it is necessary to take steps to prevent the mound from being overloaded.

It is possible that the pump will administer a volume that is more than the capacity of the mound due to the presence of extra effluent in the chamber Your home’s plumbing may begin to back up after the reserve storage capacity of the chamber has been exhausted.

Reducing your water use when the pump is not running for more than 6 hours is advised.

Proper Care Includes:

1. Knowing where your system and replacement area are, and making sure they are protected, are essential. Before you plant a garden, erect a structure, or install a pool, double-check the position of your system and the area designated for replacement
2. Practicing water conservation and balancing your water consumption throughout the week will help to prevent the system from being overburdened. The greater the amount of wastewater produced, the greater the amount of wastewater that must be treated and disposed. Diversion of rainwater away from the mound and replacement area from surfaces such as roofs, driveways, patios, and sidewalks. The whole mound has been graded to allow for water drainage. Structures, ditches, and roadways should be placed far enough away from the mound so that water circulation from the mound is not impeded. Keeping traffic away from the mound and replacement area, including as automobiles, heavy equipment, and cattle is essential. The pressure might compress the earth or cause damage to the pipes, for example. Creating an appropriate landscape for your mound. It is not recommended to cover your mound or replacement area with impermeable materials. Construction materials such as concrete or plastic restrict evaporation and the delivery of air to the soil, both of which are necessary for effective wastewater treatment. For the mound, grass is the ideal cover
3. Inspecting the mound and downslope areas for smells, damp spots, or surface sewer on an ongoing basis. Check the liquid level in your mound system’s inspection pipes on a regular basis to verify if the liquid level is consistently more than 6 inches. This might be a warning sign of a potential issue. For help, contact the Division of Environmental Health of the County of Humboldt.

What If The Alarm Goes On?

If the effluent level within the pump chamber reaches the alarm float for any reason (faulty pump, floats, circuit, excessive water usage, or another problem), the alarm light and buzzer will illuminate. By conserving water (avoid baths, showers, and clothes washing), the reserve storage in the pump chamber should provide you with enough time to have the problem resolved before the next water bill arrives. To turn off the alarm, press the reset button on the alarm panel’s front panel. Before contacting a service or repair company, determine whether the problem might be caused by:

1. A tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse are examples of this. The pump should be on a separate circuit with its own circuit breaker or fuse to prevent overloading. A piece of equipment can cause the breakers to trip if it’s connected to the same circuit as another piece of equipment
2. A power cord that has become disconnected from a pump or float switch. Ensure that the switch and pump connectors make excellent contact with their respective outlets if the electrical connection is of the plug-in variety. Affixed to other chamber components such as the electric power wire, hoisting rope, or pump screen, the control floats become entangled. Make certain that the floats are free to move about in the chamber. Debris on the floats and support cable is causing the pump to trip the circuit breaker. Remove the floats from the chamber and thoroughly clean them.

CAUTION: Before touching the pump or floats, always switch off the power at the circuit breaker and unhook any power cables from the system. Entering the pump room is strictly prohibited. The gases that build up inside pump chambers are toxic, and a shortage of oxygen can be deadly. After completing the measures outlined above, contact your pump service person or on-site system contractor for assistance in locating the source of the problem. Pumps and other electrical equipment should only be serviced or repaired by someone who has previous experience.