According to recommendations by the United States Environmental Protection Agency, as well as the Department of Housing and Urban Development, a septic tank should be at least 50 feet away from a well that is used for drinking water.
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- Septic tank drain fields must be at least 100 feet from a well. However, many health departments have different regulations so check your local health department for requirements applicable to your location. Although an existing septic system closer to a well may be safe, it is important to maintain these systems properly.
How Far Should a well be from a septic system?
Department of Health in many States requires that new septic tanks or human-waste lagoons to be installed at least 50 feet from a well. Septic tank drain fields must be at least 100 feet from a well.
What is the minimum distance in meters of a well from a septic tank?
At least 15m from the nearest water supply. This is a minimum and should be more if the ground is rocky and fissures could take the outflow further. It should be at least 3m from the nearest building. Avoid areas where rainwater would stand or flow over the tank or vehicles could drive over it.
How far should a septic tank be from a water course?
Your septic tank, when draining into a drainage field, should be positioned at least 10 metres from any watercourse.
What is the minimum distance should be kept between well and toilet pit?
The pits can be located at a minimum distance of 10 m from the drinking water sources, such as tubewells and dugwells if the ES of the soil is 0·2 mm or less; and.
How far does house need to be from well?
As a general guidance, personal drinking water wells should have a minimum horizontal distance of at least 10 feet and preferably 25 feet from such boundaries. State or local standards may be less or more stringent in your area. Contact your local health department for more information in your area.
Can septic leak into well?
Septic systems can impact local drinking water wells or surface water bodies. The extent of this impact depends on how well your septic system is maintained and if it is used properly. Household wastewater is treated by a septic system before it filters into the soil.
Does heavy rain affect septic tank?
It is common to have a septic back up after or even during a heavy rain. Significant rainfall can quickly flood the ground around the soil absorption area (drainfield) leaving it saturated, making it impossible for water to flow out of your septic system.
What are the do’s and don’ts of a septic tank?
DON’T flush material that will not easily decompose, such as hair, diapers, cigarette butts, matches, or feminine hygiene products. DO conserve water to avoid overloading the system. They kill the bacteria needed to decompose wastes in the septic tank and drain field. DO use substitutes for household hazardous waste.
What are the 2020 septic tank regulations?
Under the new rules, if you have a specific septic tank that discharges to surface water (river, stream, ditch, etc.) you are required to upgrade or replace your septic tank treatment system to a full sewage treatment plant by 2020, or when you sell a property, if it’s prior to this date.
What is the safe distance between two borewells?
As per law minimum distance between two borewells is 250 meters as per WALTA Act.
Why is it important for latrines to be far away from the river?
The distance from water wells and surface water should be at least 10 m (30 ft) to decrease the risk of groundwater pollution. If this is not carried out properly, water pollution and public health risks can occur. A basic pit latrine can be improved in a number of ways.
How Much Distance Should Be Between My Septic Tank and My Well?
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Recommended Distances Between WellsSeptic Components
As a result of local rules or soil conditions, local authorities may mandate greater distances between a well and a septic component than those suggested by the Environmental Protection Agency. When property limitations or elevation changes are involved, components can be brought closer together in other circumstances. The following are the regulations for distances between wells and septic components in the state of Maryland for wells that are intended for water distribution: d) 100 feet from identifiable sources of contamination and designated subsurface sewage disposal areas if the proposed well will utilize an unconfined aquifer as a water supply source; e) 50 feet from identifiable sources of contamination and designated subsurface sewage disposal areas if the proposed well will utilize a confined aquifer as a water supply source; and f) 50 feet from any sewage gravity or force main, except as provided in B(3) of this regulation.
The Maryland Department of the Environment’s Regulation of Water Supply, Sewage Disposal, and Solid Waste, Chapter 04: Well Construction, is the source for this information.
Possible Contaminants from Septic Systems
When a well is located too close to a septic system or other source of wastewater, a range of pollutants, such as the following, might infiltrate your well water:
- Salmonella and E. coli are examples of bactria. Viruses, such as norovirus or hepatitis A
- Bacteria
- And parasites detergents and soaps that include phosphorus. Chemicals derived from paint, drain cleaners, and other common home items
- Heavy metals, iron, and copper are examples of such materials.
These pollutants, when present in large quantities, can cause illnesses or disorders. If you have reason to believe that your well has been polluted, it is critical that you have your water tested as quickly as possible. If a problem is discovered, water treatment techniques such as chlorination, reverse osmosis, activated charcoal filtration, or ultraviolet light purification may be able to restore your water to a safe drinking temperature. If this is not the case, it may be essential to make repairs to the well or septic system.
Call Water Doctor for Water Testing or Treatment in Maryland
If you are concerned about the quality of your drinking water, our staff at Water Doctor can assist you with this. We provide water quality testing for wells and municipal systems, as well as a number of treatment methods that can assist in the correction of the majority of water quality issues in the area. In collaboration with you, our specialists can evaluate the most appropriate solutions for your demands and budget, whether it is a single system, such as reverse osmosis, or a mix of various systems, such as water softeners, charcoal filtration, and ultraviolet purification.
For more information on our water testing and treatment services, call Water Doctor at 877-677-9275 now! Since 1979, we have been providing residential and business services to clients throughout Maryland.
Setback Distance From Septic to Drinking Water Well – Drinking Water and Human Health
To treat and dispose of wastewater, or sewage, many rural people install on-site wastewater treatment systems (also known as individual septic systems) on their property. Among the impurities found in residential wastewater include disease-causing bacteria, contagious viruses, common household chemicals, and excess nutrients. By designing, installing, and maintaining a septic treatment system appropriately, the danger of contaminating the drinking water supply with these toxins is reduced significantly.
- A septic tank and soil absorption system is a wastewater treatment technology that is allowed in a number of jurisdictions.
- Alternative technologies may also be permitted in some cases.
- When it comes to protecting a private drinking water supply from pollution, while minimal setbacks are important, higher separation lengths are frequently preferable in many cases.
- The minimum setback requirements in Nebraska will be utilized as an example.
- A residential lagoon must be at least 100 feet away from a private drinking water well in order to be allowed to operate.
- Always verify your local legislation to ensure that the minimum setback distances are met in your neighborhood.
Well and Septic Distance Requirements for FHA Loans
When purchasing a property outside of the municipal boundaries, it is common for the home to be equipped with a well and septic system. Despite the fact that the residence may only have one, public water and sewer may be available nearby. When purchasing a property with these qualities with the help of the highly popularFHA loan, there are specific requirements that must be followed. These are referred to as the FHA distance requirements for a well and septic tanks, and they are outlined below.
In order to keep sources of contamination, such as a septic tank, at a safe distance from the drinking water supply, the rule was enacted. If a property does not satisfy these regulations, it may provide a health risk to the occupants. It is also possible that an FHA loan will not be approved.
FHA Minimum Distance Between a Well and Septic Tank for Existing Construction
Wells and septic tanks aren’t the only things that need to be separated from one another. As a result, the distance restrictions are primarily concerned with water rather than any other form of pollution. A septic tank, a drain field, and other sources of pollution are all possible.
FHA Distance Requirements Existing Homes
- Approximately 10 feet from the property border
- 50 feet from the septic tank
- And 100 feet from the drain field.
Despite this, there are occasional deviations in particular situations. The length of the septic tank drain field may be lowered to 75 feet if the local government approves it. Additionally, if the property line is adjacent to a residential property, the well distance regulations of the local government should be followed. However, if the land is adjacent to non-residential property or a public road, there must be a minimum of a 10-foot separation between the two properties. In circumstances where the local government grants permission for greater distances, this will take precedence over the restrictions outlined above.
In the case of a well or septic tank, it is strongly advised that you arrange a well water test and septic tank inspection prior to purchasing the house.
FHA Minimum Distance Between a Well and Septic Tank for New Construction
A buyer who acquires a new house must meet a number of more specific conditions.
- Ten feet from the property border
- Fifty feet from the septic tank
- Hundred feet from the absorption field
- And hundred feet from the seepage pit or cesspool Sewer lines with permanent water tight joints are 10 feet in length
- Other sewer lines are 50 feet in length
- And chemically poisoned soil is 25 feet in length. When impermeable layers of clay, hardpan, or rock protect the ground surface, the depth can be decreased to 15 feet. 50-foot-deep dry well
- Other regulations – always consult with the appropriate local authorities
Similarly to the current dwelling criteria, any local government regulations take precedence over the foregoing and may be followed. Another piece of advice for first-time home buyers is to make time to attend the septic system inspection. Not only may possible concerns be highlighted in depth to the borrower, but it also serves as an excellent educational opportunity. Learning how to maintain and service a septic system is an important part of a good education. HUD.gov is the official website of the Federal Housing Administration.
How far away does a well need to be from a septic system in Florida?
The Florida Department of Health specifies a minimum distance of 75 feet between a private well for potable (drinking) water and a septic system in order to ensure proper sanitation. In the case of a public well, a greater distance is required, which varies depending on the number of gallons per day produced, whereas just 50 feet is required for a non-potable well (sprinkler system, for example). The following is how it is expressed in Chapter 64E-6.005 of the Florida Administrative Code: The location and installation of the equipment.
- It is prohibited to discharge sewage waste and effluent from on-site sewage treatment and disposal systems directly or indirectly onto the ground surface, or to discharge sewage waste and effluent into ditches, drainage structures, ground waters, surface waters, or aquifers.
- The location must be within two hundred feet of a public drinking water well, as defined in paragraph 64E-6.002(44)(b), Florida Administrative Code, if the well serves a facility with an anticipated sewage discharge of more than 2000 gallons per day.
- Other states may have different requirements for the distance between a septic system and a well.
- In most cases, once you have located the well, you will find that it is located to one side of the house and on the other side of the house.
- See the following blog pages for further information about SEPTIC TANK SYSTEMS: In Florida, what is the shortest distance between a septic tank and a house?
- What can I put in my septic tank to make it run more efficiently?
- What is the best way to determine if a residence is linked to a septic tank system or a sewer system?
- What is a grinder pump, and how does it work?
- In the event that my septic tank overflows into my home, should I call a plumber or a septic tank contractor?
- What happened to the septic tank?
- It is possible for a house to have more than one septic tank.
If the washing machine drain is diverted to a nearby piece of ground in the yard, is this permissible? Visit ourSEPTIC TANK SYSTEMSandWELLSpages for further blog entries on this topic, or go to theINDEXfor a comprehensive listing of all of our articles on the subject.
USDA and FHA distance requirements for well and septic
The Florida Department of Health specifies a minimum distance of 75 feet between a private well for potable (drinking) water and a septic system in order to be considered safe for consumption. In the case of a public well, a longer distance is required, which varies depending on the number of gallons per day produced, whereas just 50 feet is required for a non-potable well (sprinkler system, for example). The following is how it is stated in Chapter 64E-6.005 of Florida’s Administrative Code: Choosing a location and putting it up Everything must be situated and placed in such a way that, with regular maintenance, the systems perform properly, do not cause sanitary nuisances or health concerns, and do not compromise the safety of any residential water supply, groundwater, or surface water.
It is necessary to take the following steps to avoid such discharges and health risks: System and septage stabilization facilities that are constructed after the effective date of the rule must be located no closer than the minimum distances specified for the following: (1) If the public drinking water well is located within one hundred feet of a facility with an estimated sewage flow of 2000 gallons or less per day, the distance between the two points is reduced to seventy-five feet under Florida Administrative Code section 64E-6.002(44)(a) or one hundred feet under Florida Administrative Code section 64E-6.002(44)(c).
- A public drinking water well, as defined in paragraph 64E-6.002(44)(b), F.A.C., must be located within two hundred feet of any facility that has an estimated sewage discharge of more than 2000 gallons per day.
- Additionally, if you are looking for the septic system in a home that you are contemplating purchasing, having this essential distance might be beneficial to your search.
- Please see our blog article for further information on locating the septic tank and drainfield.
- See the following blog pages for further information about SEPTIC TANK SYSTEMS: When it comes to septic tanks and houses in Florida, what is the minimal distance?
- In order for my septic tank to function more efficiently, what should I add to it?
- Can you tell me how I can identify whether or not a residence is linked to a septic tank or a sewage system?
- Yes.
- The septic tank needs to be pumped out every so often.
- Does adding a second story to my house necessitate the purchase of a bigger septic system?
- Plan on inspecting it, or are you just passing through?
- When it comes to the plumbing regulations, what is the difference between gray water and black water.
Is it permissible to disconnect the washing machine drain from the septic tank and direct it to the ground in the front yard? Visit ourSEPTIC TANK SYSTEMSandWELLSpages for further blog entries on this topic, or go to theINDEXfor a comprehensive listing of all of our articles on the subject.
How Far Should You Put the Septic Tank From the House?
Image courtesy of Kwangmoozaa/iStock/Getty Images.
In This Article
- Amount of distance from the home
- Basic safety concerns
- Suggestions for a successful installation
For those who don’t have access to a municipal sewage system, an alternate solution, such as a septic tank and field lines, will be required. The design and operation of these systems are fairly straightforward. When designing a septic system, you must keep in mind the requirements of local construction codes as well as public health concerns.
Tip
Depending on where you live, local ordinances and regulations that specify the distance between the septic tank and the home vary. However, the normal minimum distance is 10 feet between the two structures. Consult your local ordinances and regulations for a detailed answer as to how far your septic tank must be installed from your home. Requirements differ from one location to the next, although the standard minimum distance from the home is 10 feet in most cases. In the case of a private well for drinking water, however, keep in mind that many state departments of health demand a minimum distance of 50 feet between a new septic tank and a well.
It is possible that the septic tank will be placed considerably closer to the structure since it will be easier and require less plumbing in some cases.
Basic Safety Considerations
If you’re the type of person who prefers to do things on their own, there are certain important measures you should take before starting this endeavor. Before you start digging the hole for the tank, call your local utility providers to find out where the service lines are located. A gas line, water line, phone line, or electrical connection that has been severed is not only potentially dangerous, but it may also be extremely expensive to repair. Once you have finished excavating the hole, proceed with caution.
It’s also important to understand that a concrete septic tank can weigh up to 5 tons.
Make sure the hole is available when the tank is delivered so that it can be installed straight in the desired location.
Tips for a Successful Installation
Plan ahead of time to get your water supply switched on prior to installing your septic tank. You must fill the tank with water as soon as it is placed in its final position for this to be possible. This has absolutely nothing to do with the septic system itself, but it is a prudent precaution. In the event of a heavy downpour, the groundwater may swell and a septic tank may float out of the ground, even if it has been buried. If this occurs, contact a qualified professional immediately. Repairing any damage done to the lines or to the tank itself, as well as putting the tank back in its original location, may be a costly and time-consuming endeavor.
Initially, you may be confident that you will remember the exact location of the marker when it is time to top up the tank — which is generally every three to five years — but your memory may fade over time.
In the absence of a marker, you may end up digging holes in the wrong place when it is time to service the tank.
Septic Systems and Drinking Water
| 1. Bathrooms and Kitchens | Water from toilets, sinks, showers, and other appliances is called wastewater and can be harmful to human health. Wastewater contains harmful bacteria, viruses, and nutrients that could make you sick if it comes in contact with your drinking water well. Make sure the wastewater is properly treated by your septic system and that your drinking water well is located at the appropriate distance (set back) from your and your neighbor’s system. Avoid flushing other chemicals or medications down the drain or toilet since they could also contaminate your drinking water well. | |
| 2. Septic Tank | Wastewater generated in your home exits through a drainage pipe and into a septic tank. The septic tank is a buried, water-tight container that holds wastewater for separation and treatment. The solids settle to the bottom (sludge) and fats, oil and grease float to the top (scum). Microorganisms act to break down the sludge and destroy some of the contaminants in the wastewater. Your septic tank should be serviced and pumped on a regular basis to make sure it’s working properly. | Learn more about how your septic system works. |
| 3. Drainfield | The drainfield is a shallow, covered trench made in the soil in your yard. Partially treated wastewater from the septic tank flows out through the drainfield, filters down through the soil and enters the groundwater. If the drainfield is overloaded with too much liquid or clogged with solids, it will flood and cause sewage to surface in your yard or back up into your home. | |
| 4. Wastewater Treatment in Soil | Filtering wastewater through the soil removes most bacteria and viruses (also known as pathogens) and some nutrients. While soil can treat many contaminants, it cannot remove all of them (e.g., medicines, some cleaning products, other potentially harmful chemicals). If untreated wastewater surfaces in the yard, wastewater may contaminate your drinking water through an unsecured well cap or cracks in the well casing. It’s important to avoid flushing medication and chemicals into your wastewater since it could contaminate your drinking water. | |
| 5. Water Table | The water table is found where you first hit water if you dig a hole into the ground. | |
| 6. Groundwater | The water below the water table is called groundwater. Groundwater flowing underneath a drainfield captures any remaining contaminants released from the septic system. A drinking water well is at greater risk of becoming contaminated if it is in the path of groundwater flow beneath a septic system. | |
| 7. Drinking Water Well | A drinking water well is drilled or dug into the groundwater so water can be pumped to the surface. Deep wells located farther away from a septic system and not in the path of the groundwater flow from the septic system are least likely to be contaminated. Drinking water wells should be regularly tested to ensure your home’s water is safe to drink. | Learn about private water wells. |
| 8. Setback Distance | Most states or local governments require a specific horizontal distance (or setback) between a septic system and a drinking water well. If the soil where you live is sandy, or porous, you may want to place your well farther away than the minimum required distance. Contamination is less likely the farther apart a well is from a septic system. | Consult your local health department about required setback distances in your area. |
| 9. Could my well be affected? | Your septic system could contaminate your drinking water well or a nearby well under certain conditions. Remember to test the drinking water from your well regularly and take corrective action as needed.The contamination risk to your well is LOWER: |
- The greater the distance between the well and the septic system
- The greater the depth of the well and whether it is on bedrock or below a specified layer of silt or clay
- And the greater the distance between the well and the septic system If your septic system is pumped and maintained on a regular basis, you can avoid this.
The pollution risk to your well is HIGHER:
- The well is at a shallow depth and in permeable soil
- It is downgradient of the septic system (i.e., groundwater flows from the septic system towards the well)
- There are many homes on septic systems near the well
- Or the well and/or septic system have been poorly constructed or maintained (i.e., contaminants can enter a cracked drinking well casing from groundwater or surface water).
| Learn other ways to keep your private well safe from possible sources of contamination. |
How to Care for Your Septic System
Septic system maintenance is neither difficult or expensive, and it does not have to be done frequently. The maintenance of a vehicle is comprised of four major components:
- Inspect and pump your drainfield on a regular basis
- Conserve water
- Dispose of waste properly
- And keep your drainfield in good condition.
Inspect and Pump Frequently
Inspection of the ordinary residential septic system should be performed by a septic service specialist at least once every three years. Household septic tanks are normally pumped every three to five years, depending on how often they are used. Alternative systems that use electrical float switches, pumps, or mechanical components should be examined more frequently, typically once a year, to ensure that they are in proper working order. Because alternative systems contain mechanical components, it is essential to have a service contract.
- The size of the household
- The total amount of wastewater produced
- The amount of solids present in wastewater
- The size of the septic tank
Service provider coming? Here is what you need to know.
When you contact a septic service provider, he or she will inspect your septic tank for leaks as well as the scum and sludge layers that have built up over time. Maintain detailed records of any maintenance work conducted on your septic system. Because of the T-shaped outlet on the side of your tank, sludge and scum will not be able to escape from the tank and travel to the drainfield region. A pumping is required when the bottom of the scum layer or the top of the sludge layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, or if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet.
In the service report for your system, the service provider should mention the completion of repairs as well as the condition of the tank.
An online septic finder from the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association (NOWRA) makes it simple to identify service specialists in your region.
Use Water Efficiently
In a normal single-family house, the average indoor water consumption is about 70 gallons per person, per day, on average. A single leaking or running toilet can waste as much as 200 gallons of water each day, depending on the situation. The septic system is responsible for disposing of all of the water that a residence sends down its pipes. The more water that is conserved in a household, the less water that enters the sewage system. A septic system that is operated efficiently will operate more efficiently and will have a lower chance of failure.
- Toilets with a high level of efficiency. The usage of toilets accounts for 25 to 30% of total home water use. Many older homes have toilets with reservoirs that hold 3.5 to 5 gallons of water, but contemporary, high-efficiency toilets consume 1.6 gallons or less of water for each flush. Changing out your old toilets for high-efficiency versions is a simple approach to lessen the amount of household water that gets into your septic system. Aerators for faucets and high-efficiency showerheads are also available. Reduce water use and the volume of water entering your septic system by using faucet aerators, high-efficiency showerheads, and shower flow restriction devices. Machines for washing clothes. Water and energy are wasted when little loads of laundry are washed on the large-load cycle of your washing machine. By selecting the appropriate load size, you may limit the amount of water wasted. If you are unable to specify a load size, only complete loads of washing should be performed. Washing machine use should be spread throughout the week if at all possible. Doing all of your household laundry in one day may appear to be a time-saving strategy
- Nevertheless, it can cause damage to your septic system by denying your septic tank adequate time to handle waste and may even cause your drainfield to overflow. Machines that have earned theENERGY STARlabel consume 35 percent less energy and 50 percent less water than ordinary ones, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Other Energy Star appliances can save you a lot of money on your energy and water bills.
Properly Dispose of Waste
Everything that goes down your drains, whether it’s flushed down the toilet, ground up in the trash disposal, or poured down the sink, shower, or bath, ends up in your septic system, which is where it belongs. What you flush down the toilet has an impact on how effectively your septic system functions.
Toilets aren’t trash cans!
Your septic system is not a garbage disposal system.
A simple rule of thumb is to never flush anything other than human waste and toilet paper down the toilet. Never flush a toilet:
- Cooking grease or oil
- Wipes that are not flushable, such as baby wipes or other wet wipes
- Photographic solutions
- Feminine hygiene items Condoms
- Medical supplies such as dental floss and disposable diapers, cigarette butts and coffee grounds, cat litter and paper towels, pharmaceuticals, and household chemicals such as gasoline and oil, insecticides, antifreeze, and paint or paint thinners
Flushing Toilet Paper! Check out this video, which demonstrates why the only item you should flush down your toilet are toilet paper rolls.
Think at the sink!
Your septic system is made up of a collection of living organisms that digest and treat the waste generated by your household. Pouring pollutants down your drain can kill these organisms and cause damage to your septic system as well as other things. Whether you’re at the kitchen sink, the bathtub, or the utility sink, remember the following:
- If you have a clogged drain, avoid using chemical drain openers. To prevent this from happening, use hot water or a drain snake
- Never dump cooking oil or grease down the sink or toilet. It is never a good idea to flush oil-based paints, solvents, or huge quantities of harmful cleansers down the toilet. Even latex paint waste should be kept to a bare minimum. Disposal of rubbish should be avoided or limited to a minimum. Fats, grease, and particles will be considerably reduced in your septic tank, reducing the likelihood of your drainfield being clogged.
Own a recreational vehicle (RV), boat or mobile home?
If you have ever spent any time in an RV or boat, you are undoubtedly familiar with the issue of aromas emanating from sewage holding tanks.
- The National Small Flows Clearinghouse’s Septic System Care hotline, which may be reached toll-free at 800-624-8301, has a factsheet on safe wastewater disposal for RV, boat, and mobile home owners and operators.
Maintain Your Drainfield
It is critical that you maintain the integrity of your drainfield, which is a component of your septic system that filters impurities from the liquid that emerges from your septic tank once it has been installed. Here are some things you should do to keep it in good condition:
- It is critical that you maintain the integrity of your drainfield, which is a component of your septic system that filters impurities from the liquid that exits your septic tank. You should perform the following to keep it in good condition:
Isolation Distances From a Water-Supply Well – EH: Minnesota Department of Health
Minnesota Rules, Chapter 4725Rules Relating to Wells and BoringsEffective date: August 4, 2008The isolation distances below are fromMinnesota Rules, chapter 4725. Distances must bemeasured horizontally from the water-supply well.Minnesota Statutes, section103I.205, subdivision 6, prohibits constructing, placing, or installing anactual or potential contaminant sourcefrom a well that is lessthan the minimum distance prescribed by rule. The minimum isolation distance must be maintained between a new well and a contamination source, even if the contamination source is no longer in use. An isolation distance is not required if the contamination source and any related contaminated soil have been removed.Additional information andexplanations can be found in theRules Handbook, A Guide to theRules Relating to Wells and Borings, or bycontacting the Well ManagementSection.If you have questions about isolation distances not listed here, please contact the Minnesota Department of HealthWell Management Section.Questions? Contact theMDH Well Management Section 651-201-4600 [email protected] Department of Health
| Absorption area of a soil dispersal system | ||||
| average flow greater than 10,000 gallons/day | 300 | feet 1 | ||
| serving a facility handling infectious or pathological wastes | 150 | feet 1 | ||
| average flow 10,000 gallons/day or less | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Agricultural chemical | ||||
| tank or container with 25 gallons or more or 100 pounds or more dry weight, or equipment filling or cleaning area without safeguards | 150 | feet | ||
| storage or equipment filling or cleaning area with safeguards | 100 | feet | ||
| storage or equipment filling or cleaning area with safeguards and roofed | 50 | feet | ||
| buried piping | 50 | feet | ||
| multiple tanks or containers for residential retail sale or use, no single tank or container exceeding, butaggregate volume exceeding 56 gallons or 100 pounds dry weight | 50 | feet | ||
| Anhydrous ammonia tank | 50 | feet | ||
| Animal | ||||
| feedlot, unroofed, 300 or more animal units | 100 | feet 1 | ||
| feedlot, more than 1.0, but less than 300 animal units | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| building or poultry building, including a horse riding area, more than 1.0 animal unit | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| rendering plant | 50 | feet | ||
| feeding or watering area within a pasture, more than 1.0 animal unit | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| area to bury more than one animal unit | 50 | feet | ||
| building, feedlot, confinement area, or kennel, 0.1 to 1.0 animal unit | 20 | feet 1,2 | ||
| Building, building projection, deck, overhang, permanent structure | 3 | feet 3 | ||
| Cesspool | 75 | feet 1 | ||
| Cistern or reservoir, buried, nonpressurized water supply | 20 | feet | ||
| Commercial compost site | 50 | feet | ||
| Construction or demolition debris disposal area | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Cooling water pond, industrial | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Deicing chemicals, bulk road | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Drainfield (see Absorption area) | ||||
| Dry well (sewage) | 75 | feet 1 | ||
| Electric transmission line | 10 | feet 4 | ||
| Electrical transformer storage area, oil-filled | 50 | feet | ||
| Elevator boring, not conforming to rule | 50 | feet | ||
| conforming to rule | 20 | feet | ||
| Fertilizer chemigation tank, safeguarded, from irrigation well only | 20 | feet 5 | ||
| Floor drain, grate, or trough | ||||
| connected to a buried sewer | 50 | feet | ||
| if buried sewer is air-tested, approved materials, serving one building, or two or less single-familyresidences | 20 | feet 2 | ||
| Frost-proof yard hydrant or discharge of a frost-proof hydrant draining into the soil, | ||||
| fire hydrant or flushing hydrant | 10 | feet | ||
| Gas (flammable or volatile) pipe | 10 | feet 4 | ||
| Grave or mausoleum | 50 | feet | ||
| Gravel pocket or French drain for clear water drainage | 20 | feet | ||
| Gray-water dispersal area | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Hazardous substance | ||||
| tank or container, above ground or underground, 56 gallons or more, or 100 pounds or more dry weight, without safeguards | 150 | feet | ||
| tank or container, above ground or underground, 56 gallons or more, or 100 pounds or more dry weight with safeguards | 100 | feet | ||
| buried piping | 50 | feet | ||
| multiple storage tanks or containers for residential retail sale or use, no single tank or container exceeding 56 gallons or 100 pounds, but aggregate volume exceeding | 50 | feet | ||
| Horizontal ground source closed loop heat exchanger buried piping | 50 | feet | ||
| Horizontal ground source closed loop heat exchanger buried piping and horizontal piping, approved materialsand heat transfer fluid | 10 | feet 2 | ||
| Household solid waste disposal area, single residence | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Interceptor, including a flammable waste or sediment | 50 | feet | ||
| Land spreading area for sewage, septage, or sludge | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Landfill or dump, mixed municipal solid waste from multiple persons | 300 | feet 1 | ||
| Landfill, permitted demolition debris | 300 | feet 1 | ||
| Leaching pit | 75 | feet 1 | ||
| Liquid propane (LP) tank | 10 | feet 4 | ||
| Manure (liquid) storage basin or lagoon | ||||
| unpermitted or noncertified | 300 | feet 1 | ||
| approved earthen liner | 150 | feet 1 | ||
| approved concrete or composite liner | 100 | feet 1 | ||
| Manure (solid) storage area, not covered with a roof | 100 | feet 1 | ||
| Ordinary high water level of a stream, river, pond, storm water retention pond, lake, or reservoir | 35 | feet 2 | ||
| Petroleum | ||||
| tank or container, 1,100 gallons or more, without safeguards | 150 | feet | ||
| tank or container, 1,100 gallons or more, with safeguards | 100 | feet | ||
| tank or container, buried, between 56 and 1,100 gallons | 50 | feet | ||
| tank or container, not buried, between 56 and 1,100 gallons | 20 | feet 6 | ||
| buried piping | 50 | feet | ||
| Petroleum or crude oil pipeline to a refinery or distribution center | 100 | feet | ||
| Pit or unfilled space more than four feet in depth | 20 | feet | ||
| Pollutant or contaminant that may drain into the soil | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Privy, nonportable | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| portable (privy) or toilet | 20 | feet 2 | ||
| Sand filter, watertight; peat filter; or constructed wetland | 50 | feet | ||
| Scrap yard | 50 | feet | ||
| Seepage pit | 75 | feet 1 | ||
| Septic tank | 50 | feet | ||
| Sewage holding tank, watertight | 50 | feet | ||
| Sewage sump | ||||
| capacity 100 gallons or more | 50 | feet | ||
| capacity less than 100 gallons, tested, conforming to rule | 20 | feet 2 | ||
| Sewage treatment device, watertight | 50 | feet | ||
| Sewer, buried | ||||
| collector, municipal, serving a facility handling infectious or pathological wastes, open-jointed or unapproved materials | 50 | feet | ||
| approved materials, tested, serving one building, or two or less single-family residences | 20 | feet 2 | ||
| Solid waste transfer station | 50 | feet | ||
| Storm water drain pipe, 8 inches or greater in diameter | 20 | feet 2 | ||
| Swimming pool, in-ground | 20 | feet | ||
| Unused, unsealed well or boring | 50 | feet | ||
| Vertical heat exchanger (vertical) piping, conforming to rule | 35 | feet 2 | ||
| horizontal piping conforming to rule | 10 | feet 2 | ||
| Wastewater rapid infiltration basin, municipal or industrial | 300 | feet 1 | ||
| Wastewater spray irrigation area, municipal or industrial | 150 | feet 1 | ||
| Wastewater stabilization pond | ||||
| municipal, 500 or more gallons/acre/day of leakage | 300 | feet 1 | ||
| municipal, less than 500 gallons/acre/day of leakage | 150 | feet 1 | ||
| industrial | 150 | feet 1 | ||
| Wastewater treatment unit tanks, vessels and components (Package plant) | 100 | feet | ||
| Water treatment backwash disposal area | 50 | feet 1 | ||
| Water treatment backwash holding basin, reclaim basin, or surge tank | ||||
| with a direct sewer connection | 50 | feet | ||
| with a backflow protected sewer connection | 20 | feet | ||
| Additional Isolation Distances For Community Public Water-Supply Wells | ||||
| Highest water or flood level | 50 | feet | ||
| Property line, unless legally controlled through an easement | 50 | feet | ||
| 1 | A sensitive water-supply well must be located at least twice theindicated distance.Asensitive water-supply well is a well with less than 50 feet of watertightcasing, and which is not cased below a confining layer or confining materials ofat least 10 feet in thickness. | |||
| 2 | A community public water-supply well must be a minimum of 50 feetfrom this contamination source. | |||
| 3 | Awell or boring may not be constructed inside a building except as provided forby Minnesota Rules, part 4725.2175. | |||
| 4 | A well or boring may be located between 5 and 10 feet of anelectric transmission line, gas pipe or LP tank if the well or boring isplacarded, and work is not performed on the well or boring unless the electricline is deenergized and grounded or shielded, and the LP tank does not containflammable gas. | |||
| 5 | The 20-foot distance applies only to an irrigation well and afertilizer chemigation supply tank meeting the requirements of Minnesota Rules,chapter 1505. | |||
| 6 | A community public water-supply well must be a minimum of 50 feet from a petroleum tank or container with a capacity between 56 and 1,100 gallons, unless the tank or container is used to fuel emergency pumping equipment and is located in a room or building separate from the community well; and is of double-wall construction with leak detection between walls; or is protected with secondary containment. |
Re: Distance between Septic Tanks and Water Wells
Greetings, Mughal! Unfortunately, maintaining GW free of septic tanks is not as simple as the EPA document would have us assume – and it is also a little out of date, having been published in January 2002. If we check the Forum, we will discover more recent and better information: one of our forum specialists appears to be ‘kanalwolf,’ and if you type this user name in the search box, you will find access to a variety of material on this issue. One of the search results directs you to a recent article (2015) on the Forum, which undoubtedly has more up-to-date and accurate material than the previous one (copy attached).
), but the 50 feet in this paper seems so ridiculously small that I felt compelled to warn readers not to rely on it.
They are less susceptible to contamination by surface (closed) water when equipped with a sanitary seal, but this is also dependent on the circumstances (see publication) of GW flow direction and underground geology.
As part of the system, there is a leach field where the effluent is percolated into the earth and ideally cleansed by soil and micro-organisms in the subsurface before it reaches the groundwater level (gallons per minute).
In any case, I believe that 50 feet is far too near to be considered a “rule of thumb.” ciao, Hajo We can’t address issues by employing the same type of reasoning that we used to generate them in the first place.
It is possible for any bright idiot to make things bigger and more complicated.
It takes a certain amount of talent – as well as a great deal of guts – to go in the opposite way. E.F. Schumacher is a German industrialist. Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not any simpler than it has already been. Albert Einstein was a brilliant scientist.
