What Is Electric Conduit Coming From Septic Tank? (Solved)

  • 1) Electrical conduit – If there was once an above-ground pool or shed in the backyard, there may have been electric service through a conduit pipe coming up out the ground to a receptacle outlet box for it that is also now gone. Can you cut septic vent pipe? Your septic system may have a “candy cane” vent pipe over the pump tank.

How does an electric septic tank work?

These pumps are small electric water pumps that may be immersed in sewage water. When wastewater level in the tank reaches up to a specific level, the float switch activates and turns on the pump. As the pump starts working, the pump impeller rotates and pushes the wastewater into the drain pipes linked to the pump.

What is septic outlet pipe?

Inlet & Outlet Pipes: Wastewater from your home enters the septic tank through the inlet pipe. After the solids settle out, effluent leaves the septic tank through the outlet pipe and flows to the drain field. The outlet pipe should be approximately 3 inches below the inlet pipe.

Is the septic tank electric?

Septic Tanks The remaining sludge is partially broken down through anaerobic digestion and requires emptying regularly. Septic tanks don’t require electricity and need emptying every 6-12 months.

Why does my septic tank have a vent?

The bacteria active in a septic tank are anaerobic. Anaerobic means the bacteria operate without oxygen from the air. There is not a great deal of gas generated in a septic tank, but the gas must be released so pressure does not build up in the tank. If the septic tank has inlet and outlet baffles, they must be vented.

What are the signs that your septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

  • Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
  • Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
  • Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
  • You Hear Gurgling Water.
  • You Have A Sewage Backup.
  • How often should you empty your septic tank?

How do you tell if your septic tank is full?

How to tell your septic tank is full and needs emptying

  1. Pooling water.
  2. Slow drains.
  3. Odours.
  4. An overly healthy lawn.
  5. Sewer backup.
  6. Gurgling Pipes.
  7. Trouble Flushing.

How deep should septic pipe be buried?

On average, trenches should be around 12-24 inches-deep, and wide enough to house your pipe comfortably before filling it in with soil and sod.

How do you unclog a septic tank outlet?

Sprinkle the drain with baking soda, then dump vinegar into the pipe. Leave the mixture to sit in the pipe for an hour or two. Finally, flush the drain with hot water. If the clog is small, this could be enough to clear the pipe.

How do you seal an outlet pipe on a septic tank?

The tar sealant can be used to fill the void between the concrete and pipe. Use a trowel to press the sealant into the void. If the rubber gasket is molded into the tank for the pipe, tighten it up.

Why does my septic tank have electricity?

Why? Because pump systems are dependent on electricity to move the effluent (liquid sewage from the septic tank) into the drainfield. WARNING: If you continue to use water by flushing toilets, washing dishes, or even taking showers, the septic tank continues to fill.

How much power does a septic pump use?

120VAC, 60 Hz, 1.4A, 86 Watts. So the pump is going to draw 86 watts in continuous operation (as do most aerobic pumps run continuously). That’s 86 watts per hour (less than running a 100W light bulb).

How much does a sewage pump cost?

Monthly Cost in Dollars Small pumps like 1/4 HP and 1/3 HP tend to cost about $10 to $20 per month to operate. Larger pump with 1 HP motors or larger can cost $30 to $40 per month to operate.

Can I cut my septic vent pipe in yard?

They shouldn’t be removed but they can be cut down, level with the ground. Other white pipes may be standing above your septic tank, pump tank or close to your foundation. Those are available for maintenance, if needed, and shouldn’t be removed. Again, they can all be cut down close to the ground surface and recapped.

Where is septic vent located?

You can find your plumbing vent on your roof line. It will look like a vertical pipe running through the roof. The vent pipe works hand in hand with the drainage pipes.

How do you find a septic tank vent?

If you don’t have a basement, go outside and look for your roof vent. This is a pipe that pokes up out of your roof to vent sewer gases outside. Usually, the sewer pipe to the septic tank will leave the house directly below this vent. With some luck you will be able to find your septic tank straight from this point.

Septic Odors Passage Through Electrical Conduit How septic or sewer smells may enter a building through electrical wiring

  • Send me your question or comment concerning sewage odors or other smells that are conveyed through conduit or piping.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Sources of sewage gas leaks, including sewer or septic gases that seep through pipe or ducts: This article addresses the identification and correction of sewage or septic gas odors that may be attributed to the passage of electrical conduit, open pipe, or HVAC duct systems, as well as the prevention of such odours in the future. How scents can be linked to electrical wiring, conduits, or panels/sub panels is discussed, as is how individuals can prevent odors from passing through these components.

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SepticSewer GasesOdors from Electrical Conduit, Open Pipes or Similar Passages

The web site is really wonderful! There is a wealth of information on septic systems and septic smells available. I have a septic tank and pump station on my property (sewage leaves house and goes into original septic tank, then goes to a second tank with filter, and then goes to a pump, which pumps to leach field). The pump station is equipped with a vent (which does not appear to be clogged). I clean the filter on a regular basis (a few times a year) (the plastic type that you pull out, rinse off, and re-install).

  • The sewage stench that I’m getting at the electrical junction box makes me believe that the conduit from the pump station to the home isn’t properly vapor sealed (it took me quite a while to figure out where the odor was coming from).
  • For the first few months after cleaning the filter, there is no odor; however, after a few months, the stink becomes perceptible and continues to become stronger and worse until I clean the filter again.
  • This is a cycle that I’m not entirely sure why it occurs, but it is a constant one.
  • However, in addition to the foul stench that I detect when it is time to clean the filter, I am concerned about the possibility of septic gases being trapped in the electrical conduit.
  • – M.P.
  • (Member of Parliament)

Reply: Here we add advice on sealing leaky electrical conduit on septic pump systems – below

A professional onsite examination by an expert, or perhaps simply an electrician in this case, generally uncovers additional indicators that aid in the precise diagnosis of a problem. Following that, here are some things to think about: Thank you very much for the fantastic detective work you’ve done. I’ll make sure to include this odor source in the list of septic odor source diagnostic procedures. Indeed, we have reviewed several cases of unforeseen air flow via electrical conduit – see section “Water Entry into Electrical Panel Case3 – Negative Air PressureMoisture Condensation”ELECTRIC PANEL MOISTURE in Roger Hankey’s essay for more information on these incidents.

Sewer/Septic Odors can also be found in the Backdrafting section. The issue of sewage gas or odors going through conduit in the context of septic systems, or in your case septic pump systems, has not been addressed previously. Here are two recommendations:

  • At the very least, you should be able to seal both ends of the conduit using “duct seal putty,” which is a sort of putty that is formed by hand and placed into the conduit hole by plumbers and electricians. Any hardware store should have it on hand. It is important not to use adhesive or caulk since this will make it difficult when rewiring is required. For the second time, remember the information we gained from Hankey’s article: negative air pressure at one end of a conduit can cause air or gases to “suck” into the conduit from a distant source. You may just need to seal the two ends with putty in your situation – both ends for the following reasons:
  • Sealing the conduit ends provides protection against septic gas leaks, which may be both harmful and offensive in nature. It is also possible that sealing these leaks will assist to avoid the development of a potential sulphur-gas corrosion problem on any exposed copper wire parts of splices that are outside but near the conduit end.
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Repair Steps for sewer gases from remote pumping station

Comment from a reader: This winter, there is a lot of frost in Vermont. It is more than 100 feet from the house to our tank for pumping spill over waste water from the settling tank to a sand mound, which is used for settling tank decomposition. We have a plastic underground tube that runs from the home to the pumping tank, which is used to supply power to the pump and other equipment. The pumping tank is buried behind a deep and heavy snow/ice mound, and it has no way of breathing or allowing gas to escape from it.

  • The smell of sewage gas (rotten eggs) was getting stronger and stronger at the electrical box where the conduit line enters the home in our basement, which I discovered.
  • Even in the presence of functional roof vents and wet traps (where there is no smell), sewage gas has found a path of least resistance inside the home.
  • I’m going to dig a little hole in the ice snow surrounding the manhole cover in the pumping tank tomorrow and open it up a little to let the gases out.
  • on March 14, 2014 Reply: We appreciate your report, R., and we are not the first to learn about sewage gases making their way back into a structure through electrical conduit.
  • You may also want to look at METHANE GAS SOURCES—other sources of methane gas in and around buildings that you may not have considered.
  • We warn you about this in all of our sewer or septic gas odor related articles.
  • Additional health concerns have been raised by certain writers, including the possibility of bacterial sinusitis owing to sewage gas exposure, according to some writers (which can occur due to any sinus irritation).
  • Continue reading atSEWER GAS ODORS, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for more information.

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LEAKS IN SEWER, SEPTIC, AND GAS CONDUITSATInspect An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to DRAIN SEPTIC SEWER PIPES

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Getting It Wired

Ongoing discussions at previous seminars have focused on the correct wiring of onsite wastewater treatment equipment, which has been a common source of questions. This issue is becoming increasingly prominent as more locations require alternative systems that include pumps, or employ treatment units that require electrical connections to function properly. In addition, effluent screens are now required in many states, and these must be equipped with alarms to prevent backups into the home in the event that they get clogged.

The use of proper wiring materials and installation processes is vital to the safety of the installer, sewage system users, and anybody else who may come into contact with the system in the future.

To that end, one issue we frequently hear from installers is: “I had an electrician come out and perform the wiring and connections, but they did not comprehend what they were working with, and the installation turned out poorly.” You should examine the following factors whether you are qualified to conduct your own electrical installations or whether you hire electricians to complete the task.

  1. When exposed to water, rain, and caustic conditions, outdoor wiring must be extremely durable.
  2. You may then point out to your electrician that he or she is employing interior wire boxes and other indoor components when they are not supposed to be there in the first place.
  3. This entails making certain that: The fittings are completely waterproof.
  4. The wire that runs from the electrical box to the pump is of the right diameter.
  5. It is also vital to ensure that the conduit is properly sealed.
  6. Preventing any electrical connections within the tank is ideal.
  7. It is recommended that you locate any connections or splices required within the tank inside of a waterproof, corrosion-resistant junction box that is equipped with watertight, corrosion-resistant fittings and has its lid sealed with a gasket.

Weatherproof outside equipment must be utilized in the wiring process.

Drip-tight equipment prevents water from dropping vertically through it.

Due to the fact that these boxes are not waterproof, they should not be utilized in locations where water may spray or splash on the unit.

Containers that are watertight seal against water flowing from any direction.

Cast aluminum, zinc-dipped iron, bronze, and heavy plastic are the most frequent materials used to construct them.

When the pump and control box for the alarm system are placed outside of a building, the power to the pump and control box will most likely be provided by an underground branch circuit from a nearby service panel.

Electricity supplied to the control center should be provided on a separate circuit, and the circuit should be clearly identified on the control panel to ensure that the homeowner does not unintentionally turn off the power.

An alternative option is to run the electrical cables through a conduit.

In any situation, you must take precautions to keep the conductor safe from physical harm, as well as against water and corrosion.

Aluminum should not be used in areas where it will come into direct touch with the earth.

Underground conduit made of high-density polyethylene can be installed.

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However, physical protection is suggested to decrease the chance of someone spading through the wire at a later date if an underground feeder cable is buried without conduit protection.

Protection will be provided by burying a treated board slightly above the cable’s surface.

It will not be able to tolerate the circumstances of dampness in the soil.

This may be accomplished by comparing the length of wire required to connect the pump to the power box with the horsepower required for the pump.

Install an alarm on a separate cable and on a different circuit from the rest of the house.

For physical protection of cables, conduit can be placed around them.

For seamless transitions from one system to another, you’ll need proper connectors and bushings to make the switch from one type of conduit to the other.

Surface water should not be allowed to enter the tank if the region around the conduit entering the tank is properly sealed.

This will prevent moisture and corrosive gases from entering the control center box. If you are installing wiring or supervising an electrician who is installing onsite treatment systems, we hope these suggestions will help you identify some of the things to check for.

Septic Electrical Systems

Gravity is used by the majority of septic systems. A septic tank is located away from the house where the sewage lines transporting water and waste material are routed. The treated waste water is subsequently discharged into the drain field pipes from the tank. The Function of Septic Electrical Systems: From your home’s breaker box to your septic tank, a direct cable is laid underground. The wire is buried just beneath the drain line, which is a good thing. After that, the drain line serves to protect the cable from being dug up without regard for its location.

  • The cable is connected to a weatherproof outside electrical box that is located above ground in the building.
  • Pump controls should be connected to a separate set of cables.
  • When the water reaches a predetermined depth, the pump is activated, and the process is repeated.
  • When you engage with Kanon Electric, our skilled electricians can examine your system, explain how it works, and provide the best solution for your specific needs.
  • Recall that our ultimate aim is complete client satisfaction when you pick us to handle your project requirements.
  • For additional information, please contact us immediately!

How to Wire a Septic System

Home-Diy Gravity is used by the vast majority of septic systems to transport processed waste water from the tank to the drain field lines. In some cases, the geography or the distance between the system components will prevent the usage of a gravity system from being feasible. When the length of the sources is equal to zero, this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); otherwise, this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace(), ‘, /public/images/logo-fallback.png’) ” loading=”lazy”> ” loading=”lazy”> Tank wiring should be protected from the elements with a waterproof enclosure.

  • The following items are required: direct burial wire/cable
  • Weatherproof electrical box
  • Piggyback Plug.
  1. From the breaker box of your home to the septic tank, direct burial cable should be installed. When installing this cable, it is preferable to place it directly beneath the drain line itself. The drain pipe will then prevent the cable from being damaged by a shovel or other anything that gets stuck in it. If at all feasible, the septic tank pump should be on a separate circuit from the rest of the house. The wire should be connected to a weatherproof electrical box that is positioned outside the septic tank. Electrical rules prohibit the installation of any electrical connections or boxes within a septic tank’s interior space. Once the box is in place, the cable may be run to the breaker box and connected there. For those of you who are unfamiliar with electrical work, it is recommended that you hire a professional electrician to conduct the task. Connect the plug wire from the septic tank pump to the new electrical box by running it up and out of the tank. Pump control cables are often run on separate wires from the rest of the system. An electronic float or other switch will be used to regulate the pump, and it will turn on only when the water has reached a certain depth. Piggyback plugs should be used for the control wiring. An electrical outlet is located near where the control plugs and pump power cables are plugged in. Because of this, the pump’s power and controls will remain on the same dedicated circuit. It is necessary that these electrical connections be made outside of the tank, but they must also be at ground level rather than underground

The Drip Cap

  • To transfer processed waste water from the tank to the drain field lines, the vast majority of septic systems rely on gravity to convey the water. It may be necessary to place an electric pump in the septic tank in order to drain the water in this situation. Incorporate a direct burial cable between your home’s breaker box and your septic tank. It is necessary that these electrical connections be made outside of the tank, but they must also be at ground level rather than underground

The Difference Between Plumbing PVC and Electrical Conduit PVC

On April 16, 2020, this entry was published on the blogosphere. PVC (polyvinyl chloride) is a mixture of plastic and vinyl that is used to manufacture PVC pipes and other products. In the plumbing industry, these popular types of pipes are frequently utilized as a cost-effective alternative to more expensive copper piping. PVC is also employed in the manufacturing of electrical conduit. Despite the fact that standard PVC and electrical conduit PVC are both created from the same type of plastic, they are not the same thing and should not be used for the same purposes.

Each should only be used in the context for which it was designed, and not in any other way. Let’s take a look at the five most significant distinctions between PVC plumbing and PVC electrical conduit.

How PVC Pipe and PVC Conduit Differ

The following are the five most significant differences between PVC and conduit PVC:

Tested for Pressure

When it comes to plumbing PVC pipe (see here) and electrical PVC conduit (see here), one of the most significant distinctions is that PVC pipes are pressure tested, but electrical PVC conduit is not. Therefore, PVC pipe and PVC conduit cannot be utilized in the same application. In order for plumbing piping systems to be successful and functional, they must be able to handle high levels of water pressure. For this reason, pipes that have been tested and rated for high pressure must be employed.

PVC conduit is not permitted for use in plumbing applications since it has not been pressure tested, increasing the likelihood of a leak in the system.

Wall Thickness

Another distinction between PVC pipe and PVC conduit is the thickness of the pipe’s wall, which is measured in millimeters. Typically, the wall thickness of plumbing PVC pipe is thicker than the wall thickness of PVC conduit. Being that plumbing PVC is used in situations where pressure must be taken into consideration, the increased thickness assures that the pipe will be sturdy enough to withstand bending and that it will remain unbroken and in good condition. Because conduit PVC is not needed to sustain as much pressure as other types of PVC, it is not constructed with thick walls — doing so would be prohibitively expensive for producers.

Color

The color of the pipes distinguishes conventional PVC from electrical PVC, which is the most visible distinction. PVC pipe for plumbing applications is often white, but PVC conduit for electrical applications is typically gray. You may also obtain PVC that has had chemical additives added during the production process to produce other colored pipes, which is not as common as the regular hues. Schedule 80 PVC piping is similarly gray in color, similar to PVC conduit piping, but it is a plumbing pipe, similar to the white Schedule 40 PVC piping.

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To discover more about the distinctions between Schedule 40 and Schedule 80 plumbing PVC pipes, please see our previous blog article here.

Weatherproof Tested

Plumbing PVC is typically found inside or underground, and as a result, it is not designed to withstand exposure to UV radiation. Because UV radiation are detrimental to this form of PVC, it is not recommended for use on roofs or in other outdoor applications where it may be exposed to the elements. When exposed to the elements, it can become brittle and damaged. When it comes to outdoor waterproofing applications, electrical conduit PVC has been tested and graded for ultraviolet exposure, making it ideal for running electrical wires across roofs or up the sides of buildings.

Applications

Due to the fact that plumbing PVC is typically found indoors or underground, it is not approved for exposure to UV radiation. Because UV radiation are hazardous to this form of PVC, it is not recommended for use on roofs or in other outdoor applications where it may be exposed to the weather. When exposed to the elements, it can become brittle and break.

Electrical conduit PVC, on the other hand, has been tested and graded for ultraviolet exposure, making it appropriate for outdoor waterproofing situations in which electrical wires must be routed across rooftops or up the sides of buildings.

Plumbing and Electrical Conduit PVC Piping: Strong, Reliable Products

Plumbing PVC and conduit PVC are both excellent choices for both residential and business applications. They are long-lasting, adaptable, and cost-effective to operate. However, it is critical that you use each of them in the manner for which they were intended. When it comes to electrical applications, regular PVC pipe should not be utilized, and PVC conduit should not be used in plumbing applications. However, when they are used appropriately, they are both useful and dependable tools.

Symptoms of Septic Problems — Magneson Tractor Service Inc.

If you know what to look for, you will be able to detect problems with your septic tank system if it is not performing properly. Noises made by a pipe gurgling A gurgling sound from pipes when flushing or running the water may indicate that a tank is full or that it needs to be pumped. It may also indicate that there is another problem with the tank. 2. Problems with the toilet flushing When the toilet is sluggish to flush or refuses to flush at all, and a plunger does not resolve the problem, it is possible that there is a problem with the septic system.

  • A blockage in the pipes might possibly be the cause of this symptom.
  • Drains that are too slow 3.
  • 4.
  • One of the most unpleasant indications of a failed septic system is sewage back up into the home.
  • Unpleasant Smells All you need is a keen sense of smell to determine whether or not something is amiss with your septic tank.
  • You are most certainly inhaling poisonous sulfur vapors, unless they are leftovers from the last Easter Egg search.
  • 6.
  • It is common for grass to grow quicker or greener than the rest of the land as a sign that the septic leach field is failing to function properly.
  • 7.
  • A failure in the system has resulted in stinky water gathering near a drain field, which is potentially hazardous to human health and thus has to be rectified promptly.
  • The Root Causes of Septic Tank Issues Frequently, septic tank problems are caused by objects entering the tank that shouldn’t be there in the first place, such as toilet paper, kitchen sink waste, or garbage disposal.

In order to minimize sediments and excessive use of the trash disposal, only gray water should be used in the kitchen sink. Identifying and Understanding Potential Leach Field Issues Try to avoid these frequent septic tank concerns that are related with problems near the leach field.

  • Over the drain field, you should never park a car or other heavy equipment. The additional weight may cause difficulties such as cracking and buckling, which will interfere with the tank’s ability to function. The region above the drain field should be completely clear of obstructions. The pipe below may become compromised as a result of the weight of the objects or the volume of traffic. If the pipe becomes compacted and then breaks, it can cause significant damage to your leach field and be extremely expensive to repair. Having too much sludge near the drain field can cause sulfite and bio-mat accumulation, both of which require the knowledge of a septic specialist to remove before your system backs up
  • Putting grease down the drain or into the toilet will cause it to cool and solidify as it travels down the line. Hardened fats have the potential to induce capping, which is the complete removal of all oxygen from the system, as well as damage to the leach field. Never plant new trees in the vicinity of a septic tank’s drain field. Roots will ultimately seek for moisture underneath and will pierce the tank, drain field, or pipelines linked with the septic system, depending on the amount of moisture available. The roots will develop swiftly and inflict substantial harm as soon as they reach the source of the moisture.

To avoid any septic tank problems in the future, call the experts at Magneson Tractor Service to check your system before trouble arises.

  • Obtain Underground Locates prior to digging by calling (800) 332-2344 or 811 at least 48 hours before digging. Trenches must be a minimum of 36″ deep in all cases. If a 36-inch depth cannot be obtained, please call Lane Electric’s Engineering Department at 541-484-1151 for more assistance. It is necessary to maintain the following separations if the trench is to be used as a joint trench (shared with other utilities):
  • Obtain Underground Locates prior to digging by calling (800) 332-2344 or 811 at least 48 hours in advance. A minimum depth of 36″ must be maintained in all trenches. Contact Lane Electric’s Engineering Department at 541-484-1151 if a 36-inch depth is not possible to attain. It is necessary to maintain the following separations if the trench is to be a joint trench (shared with other utilities).

If the trench is just to be used for electricity, the ditch must be large enough to accommodate the conduit, which means a 4-inch ditch-witch trench will enough in this case. If the trench is excavated through rocky terrain, the conduit must be bedded with a minimum of 4 inches of sand to prevent it from becoming damaged. Gray Schedule 40 electrical PVC conduits must be used for all applications. Whenever a 90° curve occurs, all primary conduit (7200V) must be 3 inches in diameter with sweeping elbows that are 36 inches in radius and 36 inches long.

When running secondary (120/240V) conduit for a 400 Amp service, it must be 3 inches in diameter with sweeping elbows with a 36-inch radius at any 90-degree bend.

During any one length of conduit, primary or secondary, between devices, there shall be no more than 270 degrees of bend (3- 90° bends or 2- 90°2- 45° bends) total.

Details on mandreling may be found in Exhibit I.

This tape must be able to move freely within the conduit and extend a sufficient length (10 feet or more) beyond each end to allow for conductor installation at each end.

Specifications for transformers and primary or secondary junction boxes must be received from Lane Electric’s Engineering Department before any work can begin.

Afterward, the Trench and conduit will be thoroughly inspected, and then the Trench will be back-filled.

It should be noted that no electric wires, whether primary or secondary, may be installed beneath a concrete foundation or slab.

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