What Is A Inlet Access Hole On A Septic Tank? (Solution found)


  • The inlet baffle is situated at the junction between the septic tank and the main sewer line leading from the house. It’s designed to help wastewater flow smoothly into the tank without disturbing the scum layer. Click to see full answer Keeping this in view, what is the purpose of an inlet baffle in a septic tank?

What is a septic tank inlet?

The line entering the septic tank from your home is an “inlet” line. This line has an “inlet baffle” installed on the inside of the tank. A properly maintained inlet baffle directs incoming waste downward, below the liquid level, minimizing disruption of the liquid and solid layers inside the tank.

What is the function of inlet and outlet pipe of a septic tank?

Where a replacement PVC plastic septic tank tee is installed into a steel or concrete septic tank, the outlet or inlet tee is a standard pipe tee, typically of the same diameter as the incoming sewer line, placed at the inlet of a septic tank to prevent the inlet sewer line from being clogged by floating scum and waste

Where is the inlet baffle in a septic tank?

The inlet baffle is situated at the junction between the septic tank and the main sewer line leading from the house. It’s designed to help wastewater flow smoothly into the tank without disturbing the scum layer.

What floats on top of septic tank?

Heavy solids, such as dirt and digested waste, will sink to the bottom of the tank to form the sludge layer. Meanwhile, solids that are lighter than water, such as grease, hair, and toilet paper, will float to the top to form the scum layer.

How do I know if my septic line is clogged?

Signs of Septic System Clogging: Water and sewage from toilets, drains and sinks backing up into your home. Bathtubs, showers, and sinks draining slowly. Gurgling sounds present in the plumbing system. Bad odors coming from the septic tank or drain field.

Why is my septic tank full again?

There may be several reasons why you have an overfilled septic tank. An overfilled septic tank is often a signal that your drain field is malfunctioning. The water flow backs up when your drain field floods, causing the water level in your septic tank to rise. Other common issues are plumbing and excess water use.

Why does my septic tank keep getting clogged?

A clogged septic tank or drain is caused by a number of things: An obstruction in the line caused by a buildup of pressure between the object and the inner circumference of the pipe. An example is a diaper stuck in the sewer drain line. There is simply too much diaper to fit through the line at once!

Does a septic tank need an inlet baffle?

Inlet baffles are needed for proper performance of the septic tank. Raw sewage from the residence is directed by the baffle downward into the middle zone of the septic tank. This means the effluent follows a tortuous path through the tank, which provides the necessary detention time for the larger solids to settle out.

How much lower should the outlet be than the inlet on a septic tank?

Generally speaking, the outlet on a septic tank should be around 4–6″ lower than the inlet, depending on the size of the tank. The tank itself, when set in place, should be as level as possible. The height difference from inlet to outlet is accounted for in the tank’s manufacture.

Why does my septic tank have 2 lids?

Solid, watertight, buried tank made of concrete, plastic, fiberglass or metal. This tank has a way in (inlet), and a way out (outlet). So, most residential tanks should have (2) lids about 5′ away from each other. A septic tank holds all the liquid waste from your home (toilets, sinks, kitchen, bathtubs, floor drains).

How much does it cost to replace a baffle in a septic tank?

Repairing a baffle costs $300 to $900 on average. You may pay more if it’s tough to access. The baffle helps to prevent buildup in the incoming or outgoing pipes of the tank.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

Everything You Need to Know About Your Septic Tank

What is a septic tank, and how does it work? A septic tank is a water-tight container that is often constructed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene to prevent flooding (plastic). In fact, it is only one component of the entire septic system, which includes several other components such as a distribution box, pumps, float switches, aerators, filters, and other accessories. Septic systems are used to treat wastewater on-site in many rural and suburban areas that do not have access to centralized sewage systems.

The components of a conventional septic tank are depicted in the diagram below.

These are:

  1. The term “septic tank” means “sewage treatment system.” Concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene are the most common materials used to construct septic tanks (plastic). It is only one component of the septic system, which normally consists of a pipe from the house, a septic tank, and a drain field, but may also contain a distribution box, pumps, float switches, aerators, filters, and a variety of other parts and accessories. The use of septic systems to treat wastewater on-site is common in rural and suburban areas that do not have access to centralized sewers. A septic tank will most likely be buried in your yard if your home is equipped with one. The components of a conventional septic tank are illustrated in the diagram below. A septic tank is made up of six major components:

Any of the above-mentioned components in your septic tank should be checked for damage or missing parts as soon as possible, and the problem should be resolved by a septic system specialist. What is the operation of a septic tank? Each and every drop of wastewater from your home is channeled via a main drainage pipe and into your septic tank. Solids are prevented from entering your drain field by using the septic tank, which is just a settling tank that serves as a filter. It is meant to retain water in the tank for at least one day to enable time for the sediments to settle.

  • Heavy materials, such as dirt and digested waste, will sink to the bottom of the tank and form a sludge layer at the bottom of the tank.
  • Effluent is the term used to describe the liquid that exists between the sludge and scum layers.
  • It is critical that solids are given adequate time and space to settle before being used.
  • In fact, the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection mandates a minimum capacity of 900 gallons for any new septic tank installations in the state (the table below shows recommended septic tank capacities for different sized homes).
  • Ideally, you should have your septic tank emptied every two to three years, according to the Pennsylvania Septage Management Association (PSMA).
  • If a drain field has been ruined by a buildup of sediments, it might cost tens of thousands of dollars to rebuild it.
  • It is crucial to understand that your septic tank must be completely filled with liquid in order to function effectively.
  • The septic tank diagram shown above depicts the correct operating level of a septic tank in a residential setting.
  • The result is that whenever more wastewater is added to the tank, an equal volume of effluent will be discharged from the tank and drain into the drain field.
  • The opposite is true if the liquid level is higher than the outflow line, which may signal a blockage in a line downstream from the septic tank or in the drain field.

If you’re wondering if your septic tank is full, a skilled pumper will consider it “full” once solids have filled one-third of the tank’s capacity. This is the time of year when your septic tank will need to be pumped.

septic tank connection

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septic tank connection
Author:tpc1 (TN)I am building a detached garage which has a sink in it.The septic tank is between the house and the garage.I have plumbed a drain line through the brick to drop down and run directly to the septic tank. The drain from the house is on the other side of the septic tank.Is there a hole on all four sides of a septic tank to run a line through?Can I simply drill through the top side wall of the septic tank?How can I connect this drain to my septic tank without going around to the other side? Please help.Any information is greatly appreciated.
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)tpcl,Typically, precast concrete septic tanks have one 4-inch inlet hole and one 4-inch outlet hole.For the installation of this new sink drain to be perfectly correct, you should go ahead and dig the trench that additional 10 feet or so, and then connect the new drain pipe to the 4-inch sewer pipe coming from the house.Cut in a 4-inch wye fitting into the 4-inch sewer pipe and then use the appropriate reduction fittings to accept the new drainpipe.Use a 4-inch Fernco coupling and a close nipple to insert the wye into the existing sewer pipeline.This approach is easier than trying to punch a small hole through the 3 or 4-inch thick concrete sidewall.Depending upon the condition and quality of the concrete in your tank, you may end up making a larger hole than needed.Pounding on the side of the tank with a hammer and chisel or even an impact hammer-drill could collapse the sidewall.If this happens, you will find yourself in “deep do do.”You may have to replace the septic tank.This is a lesson that was learned the hard way.If you decide to punch a hole in the side of the tank to insert the new drainpipe and if your septic tank has two compartments, be sure to locate the new hole so that the water will enter the first compartment of the tank.Good Luck!Post Edited
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:hj (AZ)You can’t. You have to connect to the pipe from the house. Most septic tanks have a 6″ baffle pipe that the house sewer feeds into. Making a second inlet hole anywhere in the tank would bypass that baffle and create a lot of problems with the tank in the future.
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)Additional comment:hj is correct regarding the presence of the inlet baffle.Typically, modern concrete tanks are fitted with a 4-inch sanitary tee which acts as the inlet baffle.The importance of the inlet baffle in the performance of the septic tank, however, is a matter of debate.In my view, the only reason to install an inlet baffle is because most septic system regulations require an inlet baffle.I believe that directing the incoming sewage toward the bottom of the tank creates turbulance that resuspends already settled solids and therefor increases the suspended solids concentration in the effluent.If the inlet pipe just enters the tank horizontally above the scum layer, the scum layer dissipates the inrush turbulance and the sewage settles to the bottom of the tank gently.The septic tank that serves my home does not have an inlet baffle, and my system has been performing perfectly for 22 years.I removed the sanitary tee from the inlet pipe just as the health department inspector signed the final inspection line on my permit.He was aware of my action and was interested in knowing the validity, or lack thereof, of the theory.With the advent of septic tank effluent filters, the issue of the importance of the inlet baffle is moot.So if you wish to risk poking another hole into the side of the septic tank and create an additional sewage inlet in the first compartment, go for it.If you wish to comply with the septic system regulation in regard to the inlet baffle, then cement a tee on the end of the inlet pipe and then cement the pipe so that it extends 8 to 10-inches below the liquid level of the tank.Keep in mind that working inside of the septic tank is a nasty and dangerous proposition.
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:tpc1 (TN)Thank you for all of your responses.I will run my drain around to the other side and connect it to the inlet line.
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:hj (AZ)The purpose of the inlet baffle and it does not go down to the bottom of the tank is to create a “no flow” zone above that level. The influent enters the tank through the baffle and the heavier material settles to the bottom, but the lighter materials, i.e., grease and soap float to the top. The “clearer” water layer in the center is what will exit the tank as effluent. It is exactly like a very large grease interceptor, and the largest interceptors are actually a version of a septic tank.
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)hj, tpc1 has stated that he intends to connect his sink drain in the proper manner.Thank you tpc1 for acknowledging our responses and informing us of your intended course of action.I wish to continue our discussion of the importance and purpose of the inlet baffle in a septic tank.The original septic tanks, manufactured in the late 1800’s, mostly were single compartment tanks.Inlet baffles were designed for these tanks to prevent or reduce the potential for short-circuiting untreated sewage through the tank just as you have described.When two compartment tanks became the norm, the need for the inlet baffle became obsolete.The center baffle then provided and greatly expanded the “no flow” zone of which you speak.Single compartment tanks were the norm for many years so the requirement of the inlet baffle was important and was codified in The Manual of Septic Tank Practice, authored by engineers with the US Public Health Service (USPHS) in the 1940’s.Virtually all of the state septic system regulations are based on The USPHS Manual of Septic Tank Practice.When two compartment tanks became the required design, the “need” for the inlet baffle was removed but the “requirement” for the baffle remained in the regulations.I am aware that the bottom of the inlet baffle does not extend to the bottom of the tank, but when low profile tanks are used, the bottom of the inlet baffle is only 24-inches from the bottom of the tank.As the sludge accumulates, this distance slowly becomes diminished.As the sewage from a clothes washer, a dishwasher, a sewage ejector pump, or a modern large volume bathtub/spa flows into the septic tank, it will come into the tank at a greater velocity and volume than the sewage from toilets, showers, and lavatories.If the sewage is directed down toward the bottom of the tank through a 4-inch pipe, the inflow turbulence will resuspend already settled solids that will be carried into the second compartment of the tank, and possibly through the outlet tee of the tank. The suspended solids in the effluent will be applied to the leach field and will increase the formation of the clogging mat.If the leach field consists of a single trench or bed design, the leach field service life is quickly reduced.
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By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.

  1. Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
  2. A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
  3. When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
  4. In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
  5. Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
  6. Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
  7. In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.

Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.

grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.

Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.

Water conservation should be practiced.

Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.

Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.

The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.

What you should expect when your septic tank needs pumping

The following are general recommendations: It is advised that you pump your septic tank every two to three years. The frequency with which you pump is determined by the volume of water you utilize. Generally speaking, the more individuals that use your septic system, the greater the increase in water flow. As a result, your septic tank will fill up more quickly, necessitating more regular pumping. It is possible that the septic tank will need to be pumped more frequently than every two to three years.

Choosing a certified pumper

We recommend that you identify your septic tank before contacting a pumping company. Here is a list of questions you should ask the pumper about their services that we recommend you ask:

  1. What is the approximate cost of the pump-out
  2. And Will additional gallons be charged if the septic tank has a capacity more than 1,000 gallons? Is it included in this price the expense of excavating to expose the septic tank lid(s)
  3. If not, do you charge by the foot or by the meter? How much do you charge to dig you out if you don’t have one
  4. Is there a charge for dumping costs included? Was it determined that this fee includes a visual check of the septic tank’s entrance and exit baffles? Do you charge an additional fee for cleaning the filter baffle? If a tank has not been properly maintained, is there an additional price for the additional water and time necessary to pump it out? (for example, pumped on a regular basis)
  5. Please specify the distance and elevation to where the Pumper’s vehicle will be stationed if you have a long distance to pump or if you will be pumping up a steep hill (for example, in your driveway or in the yard). The Pumper will decide whether or not the vehicle is capable of providing this sort of service. Is pumping the pump tank a frequent component of your routine maintenance? What is the cost of providing this service? It is recommended that a pump tank be pumped in addition to the septic tank, cleaned with water, and then dried with a blow dryer. If the pump tank is extremely full, you may be subject to an additional price.

Locating the septic tank

Who pays for the pump-out service? Does it cost more money if the septic tank holds more than 1,000 gallons? Was there any excavating to uncover the septic tank lid(s) as part of this pricing estimate? You may charge by the foot if you don’t have a flat rate. If not, how much do you charge to dig you out of the hole? Was there a fee for disposal of the waste? Is it included in this price the examination of the septic tank’s entrance and outflow baffles? Can I expect to pay an additional fee to have the filter baffle cleaned; If a tank has not been adequately maintained, would there be an additional price for the additional water and time necessary to pump it?

It is up to the Pumper to evaluate whether or not the vehicle is equipped to provide this sort of service.

Which services are included in the fee for this one?

You may be charged an additional cost if the pump tank is too full.

  • If there is a crawl space, you may be able to locate the tank by determining where the plumbing exits the foundation wall and then using a probing bar to locate it. If you have a fiberglass or polyethylene tank, a probe bar is not suggested unless extreme caution is exercised when using the probe bar. Probing will only be effective if the tank is not more than 1 to 2 feet below the surface of the ground
  • If there is no crawl space available, you may occasionally discover the tank by looking for the plumbing vents in the roof. A person who is walking behind the home and coming from a restroom can find themselves at the exit point of the sewage line that connects to the septic tank

Using an electronic detecting equipment may be essential if none of the above mentioned approaches prove successful. Some rental services contain a transmitter that may be flushed down the toilet and is detected by a receiving unit, which can be found in some rental services. In certain cases, drainfield location is the specialty of septic system contractors. See a list of septic system installers who are certified. As long as the tank is exposed, sketch a map depicting the location of the septic tank lid(s) in relation to the home and make a copy of the map for your records.

Pumping the septic tank

Before the Pumper begins the process of pumping out the tank, you may request that he measure the thickness of the scum and sludge layer layers on the inside of the tank. Using this method, you can determine the pace at which the particles collect in the tank, which will assist you in determining when it is necessary to have the septic tank pumped again. Pumping frequency will be in the range of 2 to 3 years for the vast majority of families. It doesn’t matter how often you pump your septic system; frequent inspections will provide you peace of mind that everything is in working order inside those tanks.

Concerning the inspection of your septic system. The septic tank Pumper should present you with a receipt that details the services that were done to your tank. This receipt should contain the following information:

  • The company’s name, address, and phone number
  • Pumper’s certification number
  • Number of gallons that were pumped in an approximate manner the number of compartments that have been pumped In good working order, the tank baffles In-tact condition of the septic tank
  • Provide specifics on any work performed on baffles or access lids. This information should be included on the pump receipt if the scum and sludge layers were measured. Any work done on the septic tank or pump tank should be documented. Any additional service work that is completed

Installing Access Risers

In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below. Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.

A few safety tips before you get started:

  • Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website
  • Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.

Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need

It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the internet. PVC risers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some of the brand names you might be familiar with include “Tuf-Tite,” “Polylok,” and “Orenco.” Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening without difficulty. Due to the fact that certain tanks have square openings, it might be difficult to fit a riser around the square entrance.

Some types of risers are made to order based on the height you want, while others are available in increments of 6-12 inches.

Then purchase an Adapter and Risers that are somewhat bigger in diameter than the hole.

See below for Step 4 on attaching risers to the tank entrance.

  1. It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the Internet. A variety of PVC risers are offered in various configurations. Tuf-Tite, Polylok, and Orenco are just a few of the brand names you might be familiar with. Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening with no difficulty whatsoever. Fitting around a riser above a square aperture in certain tanks can be difficult since some tanks have square openings. In order to accommodate this, square plate adapters with round apertures are now available. Others come in 6-12-inch increments and are custom-cut to the height you want, while others are available in pre-cut lengths. NOTE: You will need to measure the size of the hole in your septic tank before you can begin the process. Buy Adapter and Risers that are slightly bigger in diameter than the hole. The 24 inch Tank Adapter Ring, the 24 inch Risers, and the 24 inch Lid are required if, for example, the hole in your septic system is 22 inches across at its widest point. Fitting risers to the tank entrance is covered in detail in Step 4. The following components will be required to build a riser system on your septic tank:

The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):

  1. Digging up your septic tank(s) will require the following materials.

To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:

  1. Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws
  2. Raspor file
  3. Marking pen
  4. Tape measure
  5. Drill with a 1/4″ bit

Materials required to seal the risers to the tank include:

  1. High-strength concrete patch mix
  2. A small bucket
  3. A mixing stick
  4. And gloves

Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.

Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)

When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.

Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.

The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.

If you run into a power line, the consequences could be fatal. Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.

Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)

Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you create a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).

  • You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.
  • Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
  • When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
  • Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).
  • If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
  • Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
  • Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.
  • Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
  • Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.

You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.

Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings

In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:

  • Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.

The distance between the ground and the top of the fiberglass plate should be measured. You may choose to place the risers so that they are level with the surface of the ground, or you may want them to stand out a few inches above the ground (if a riser is above ground make sure you are careful when mowing). Tips: To shorten a big riser with ribs, drill a 1/4-inch hole between the ribs above the cut line and finish the cut by following one of the grooves between the ribs with a saber/jig saw to finish the cut.

By eliminating one of the ribs from the largeriser, it may be made to fit more snugly into a smaller manhole entrance.

Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

  • Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
  • NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.
  • The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
  • If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
  • Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.
  • A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.

Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.

How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Usually they feature a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, along with certain dimensions that allow you to measure to the exact spot. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.

Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely.

An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

How to Remove a Septic Tank

  • The location of the tank should be marked for future reference once it has been emptied by a professional and the lid has been hidden. In order to keep track of where you are, you might use a hefty circular patio tile that is placed in the ground. Also, draw your own map of the area and save it with your other important papers.


One of the most often asked questions we receive is, “How often should I have my septic tank pumped?” Pumping schedules can be easily determined by referring to the chart below. As a general rule, most tanks require pumping every 3 to 5 years, depending on the size of the tank, the amount of wastewater that flows into the tank on a daily basis, and the amount of rubbish that is disposed of. The technician should be able to advise you on how long you should wait before having the tank pumped again at the time of the initial pumping.


The following factors contribute to septic odors on the outside: a plumbing vent pipe that is shorter than the highest point of the home’s roofline; or a tank that does not have an intake tee. Inside your house, you may notice septic scents due to the presence of a U-shaped trap in each drain (sink, bathtub/shower, and toilet) that collects waste. This trap contains water and forms a barrier that inhibits sewage gases from entering the house. It is possible that the water in the traps will evaporate if any of the fixtures are not utilized on a regular basis, and the gases will enter the home.


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