What Does My 30 Year Old Septic Tank Look Like? (Question)

What does a concrete septic tank look like?

• On the top middle of the tank is a filter with ball valve, risers and covers.” septic tank stock pictures, royalty-free photos images “A concrete septic tank is being installed underground at a large house constriction site. On the top middle of the tank is a filter with ball valve, risers and covers.”

How do I tell how old my septic tank is?

If you cannot find the septic system and know nothing about it or its history, start by checking the age of the building and its plumbing system with the premise that for most sites the septic tank and fields won’t be older than those.

How do you know if your septic tank needs to be replaced?

5 Signs it’s Time to Replace Your Septic System

1. Age of the System. It’s pretty common for a septic system to last 40 years or longer, which means if you buy a new home, you might never need to replace it.
2. You’ve Outgrown the System.
3. Slow Drains.
4. Standing Water in the Yard.
5. Nearby Contaminated Water Sources.

How long do septic tanks usually last?

Septic System Basics Because it is expensive to replace a septic system, proper maintenance is important. The more proactive you are in maintaining your system, the longer it will last. In fact, septic tanks can last as long as 30 years or more.

What are old septic tanks made of?

Septic tanks are made from steel, concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. Steel tanks tend to rust, have a shorter service life, and are only found in older systems. Concrete tanks are durable, but occasionally can crack and leak wastewater.

Do old septic tanks need to be registered?

Many homes are not connected to mains drainage, instead having sewage treatment systems or septic tanks or occasionally cesspools. If your sewage treatment system or septic tank discharges to a river or stream it must be registered immediately.

How were old septic tanks built?

Many of the first septic tanks were concrete tanks that were formed out of wood and poured in place in the ground and covered with a concrete lid or often some type of lumber. In the 1960s, precast concrete tanks became more prevalent as the standard of practice improved.

Do septic tanks wear out?

Unfortunately, septic systems don’t last forever. With regular maintenance and pumping, your septic system can last many years. However, after decades of wear and tear, the system will need to be replaced.

What is the most common cause of septic system failure?

Most septic systems fail because of inappropriate design or poor maintenance. Some soil-based systems (those with a drain field) are installed at sites with inadequate or inappropriate soils, excessive slopes, or high ground water tables.

Can a septic system last forever?

How long does a septic system last? On average, a new septic system will last for 20-30 years. Soil quality – the quality of soil will determine how durable your septic tank is. For instance, acidic groundwater can corrode a concrete septic tank.

Can a septic tank never be pumped?

What Are the Consequences of Not Pumping Your Tank? If the tank is not pumped, the solids will build up in the tank and the holding capacity of the tank will be diminished. Eventually, the solids will reach the pipe that feeds into the drain field, causing a clog. Waste water backing up into the house.

What will ruin a septic system?

Any paper products like tissues, paper towels, tampons, or sanitary products, even some heavier toilet paper, will clog your system if you flush enough of it. Wet wipes are another product that you should never flush into a septic system.

What to put in septic tank to break down solids?

Yeast helps actively breaks down waste solids when added to your septic system. Flush ½ cup of dry baking yeast down the toilet, the first time. Add ¼ cup of instant yeast every 4 months, after the initial addition.

What are the 3 types of septic systems?

Types of Septic Systems

• Septic Tank.
• Conventional System.
• Chamber System.
• Drip Distribution System.
• Aerobic Treatment Unit.
• Mound Systems.
• Recirculating Sand Filter System.
• Evapotranspiration System.

What were old septic tanks called?

This treatment chamber became known as the septic tank. Note that the septic tank has a baffle at each end to help keep waste in the tank. The original pit remained as the part of the system that returned “clarified” wastewater to the ground. It now became known as a drywell.

Buying a home with a 30 year old septic system. What are the pros and cons? (investment, fees) – Real Estate -Brokers, appraisals, development, lease, investing, relocation, apartments, houses, condos, values, mortgages, loans.

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We are interested in a home that uses the original 30 year old septic system. The sellers state there have been no problems with it and the system was pumped last year. The original leach field is also 30 years old. They also state no issues. Would it be a good idea to ask what company services their septic and call them myself to see if there have been any issues? Not that I think the seller would lie but I can’t imagine in 30 years never having a problem.Would you be turned off when buying a home with original septic? I should note the home is owned by original owners and the property seems to be in great condition.I am reading conflicting things online as to how long septic systems last. Many people claim their system lasted 50+ years and that the older septic systems are designed better than new; however some reports state septic systems and leach fields need to be replaced after 25 years.For those who have been in my shoes, what did you decide to do? Pursue a home with original septic? Why or why not?For those who have owned a home with a septic and leach field what was/is your experience? What are the pros? Cons?Lastly, for those who have opted to buy a home and then tie into town sewer (I need to inquire with the town to see if this is possible), what were your costs to do so? Are you happy with your decision?

Actually, just re-read the email from the realtor. The septic is40years old. Does that make it any more or less concerning? If it is functioning fine all these years does that indicate it is a good system and not to worry?

Location: Cary, NC39,573 posts, read68,619,323timesReputation: 40721

The age of the system is of interest, but not necessarily the most interesting concern.The use, abuse, and maintenance are more important.How many bedrooms is the septic system designed for?How many people lived there over the years with the owners, kids, etc?If the usage has maxed out the design for an extended period of time, I would be less comfortable.Why was it pumped?Did it ever back up?A system that is not maxed out for extended periods can go many years without being pumped.Solid waste should break down.Grease down the drain may increase the frequency of needing to be pumped, or a garbage disposal would be worse.Is the lot large enough to allow for a new drainfield if this one would fail at some point?Are there trees in and around the drain field that might be putting roots into the drain lines?Is the drain field in an area where vehicles drive over it and compact soil?Connecting to city services comes with wildly varying costs, so the place to start is with the city to inquire about availability and connection fees.I have had both, and I have seen drain field failures on neighbors.My preference is city service, for peace of mind.The monthly bill is an investment similar to the lifetime cost of installing or replacing on-site septic systems, IMO.

Location: NC8,275 posts, read11,347,250timesReputation: 17934

Agree with Mike.My septic system was original to the farm and over 60 years old when I bought the property.The only thing I “needed” to do was have it pumped every 3 yrs, and have it checked for any deterioration.So far so good.Assuming the house was put in the best spot on the property to allow establishment of a good system, you can be good to go (pun).One thing you can try to determine is whether the system is using the original leach field or the back-up field.If it using the original field you still have another field ready and waiting if the primary field fails. And replacing the tank is not that expensive if you need to do that one day, maybe 3-4K I would guess.

Location: Howard County, Maryland1,539 posts, read2,068,202timesReputation: 2446

I’d recommend a separate inspection of the septic system with a specialist should you go forward with it.It’s not terribly expensive (less than $200 in my area) and worth it.Additionally, most home warranty companies will offer a separate rider for well/septic.Although the response of the warranty companies can be debatable.That said, I’ve seen homes with 25 year old systems that needed to be replaced and others with 50 year old systems that were absolutely fine.

Location: Salem, OR15,067 posts, read37,265,678timesReputation: 15839

I’ve seen homes with 100-year-old septic systems that still work.I’ve seen 10-year-old septic systems fail.I agree with MikeJ that use and maintenance is more of an issue than age.

Location: Rochester, WA10,569 posts, read7,371,162timesReputation: 28667

Have it pumped and inspected (in our part of the country this would be customary and paid by the seller).Go and be present when they do it.Ask the guy about the baffles and the condition and size of the tank for your size house and family.If this is a wet time of year for you, go walk the drain field.Personally, I would much rather have an old well-functioning gravity fed system (I own one now that is 1983) than one of the newer high tech systems that have more complications and alarms and processes that can fail.I don’t want a septic that needs power to run.Sometimes newer is not better.

Location: Port Charlotte3,929 posts, read5,780,291timesReputation: 3441

If there is no surface evidence of failure, and the soil perks well (sandy, not clay), at that age should not be an immediate issue.My only question would be the type of piping used in the field (porus clay, plastic, etc).A tank should be OK indefinitely.Second a septic inspection, and the state may require it.

Location: Cary, NC39,573 posts, read68,619,323timesReputation: 40721

Quote:Originally Posted byDiana HolbrookHave it pumped and inspected (in our part of the country this would be customary and paid by the seller).Go and be present when they do it.Ask the guy about the baffles and the condition and size of the tank for your size house and family.If this is a wet time of year for you, go walk the drain field.Personally, I would much rather have an old well-functioning gravity fed system (I own one now that is 1983) than one of the newer high tech systems that have more complications and alarms and processes that can fail.I don’t want a septic that needs power to run.Sometimes newer is not better.Excellent point.”Engineered Systems” are becoming more common, so homes can be built on poorly perking soils as sprawl drives land prices and pushes people into surrounding areas without municipal services.I just don’t want a drip irrigation septic system that takes regular annual maintenance, particularly if homes a mile away are on “good” soils.I don’t even care for conventional septic systems with a lift station to raise effluent up from the tank to the drain field.Either one, and I would have to invest in a whole house generator, too.

09-20-2017, 06:40 AM

Septic system overload My septic system is 25 years old.After having guest stay in the house, doing laundry, running dishwasher, 5 showers a day, etc. the kitchen sink backed up. I called a septic company and they pumped it out.The baffle was floating in the pool and he threw it away and did not replace it.After trying to sell me a complete new system he charged me $300 for pumping and left.Will I have problems later?

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Septic System Life Expectancy Guide for Septic Systems, Septic Tanks, Septic Drainfields and other septic components

• The frequency with which my septic tank should be pumped is not specified. Is it necessary to get your septic tank drained on a regular basis It is recommended that you pump and empty your tank every 3 to 5 years, as a rule of thumb. Septic-disposal tanks are often used by houses located outside of urban areas since they do not have access to municipal sewer systems. Household waste may be managed in an ecologically acceptable, safe, and natural manner using a septic tank system. A septic tank system may endure for many years if it is cared for, maintained, and pumped regularly. Septic systems remove wastewater from your home and transport it to a holding tank, where it is separated into three categories: particles, liquid waste (known as effluent), and residual. Given their greater density, solids (or sludge) will sink to the bottom of the tank, where germs and bacteria will consume them and decompose their residues. It will float to the top because it is made up of fats, oils and grease, which are lighter than water. The middle layer of watery effluent will depart the tank by way of perforated subterranean tubes and into a drain or leach field, respectively. Water is cleansed when it returns to the groundwater system thanks to the filtering system created by gravel, rocks, and soil. As a result of building up too much waste, the bacteria’s capacity to break down the trash will diminish, and the garbage will overflow into the drainage field. Septic tank cleaning is therefore quite important. When should you get your septic tank pumped, you might wonder. When determining how frequently your septic tank should be cleansed, there are a few things to bear in mind. Chart illustrating the schedule for pumping septic tanks. It is important to have a large septic system. In general, the majority of sewage-disposal tanks have capacities ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 gallons. if you are unsure of the exact size of your septic tank, you may get it checked by a professional from a septic tank cleaning business to find out. Pumping frequency is influenced by a number of factors, one of which being the size of the tank. It is recommended that a 1,000-gallon tank be pumped every 2.6 years for a family of four
• However, a 1,500-gallon tank can be pumped every 4.2 years and a 2,000-gallon tank can be pumped every 5 years for a family of four. It is important to have a large family. The size of the septic tank is determined by the size of the house. In order to accommodate a 3-bedroom house, the size of the tank must be bigger than that required for a 2-bedroom home. Even your next-door neighbors might be a valuable source of knowledge. If you chat with them, you might want to inquire about the size of their septic tank in relation to the number of people that live in their residence. The frequency with which you should schedule septic tank pumping for your system will become much clearer. Generally speaking, increasing the number of people living in a house results in increased waste production, which affects the frequency with which a septic tank must be cleaned. Other factors that impact the timing of septic pumping include the kind of detergents, cleansers, and chemicals that you use in your house and how frequently they cause the drain to clog. Take into consideration the whole amount of wastewater generated, which includes laundry, dishwashing, and shower usage. Each person consumes 70 gallons of water each day, according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Water consumption that is efficient will help to extend the life of a septic system while also reducing the chance of clogging, supporting, and leaking the system. Choose the appropriate load size for your washing machine and only do laundry when you have a full load to help regulate the amount of water that drains down the toilet. Instead of performing many loads in one day, it is preferable to spread washing machine usage over the week. Excessive use of the cleaning machine in a single day can cause damage to a septic tank by preventing waste from being properly treated and increasing the likelihood of overflowing the drain field. Make your septic tank last longer by using environmentally friendly detergents throughout your house, purchasing an energy-efficient cleaning gadget that uses less water, and installing a filter to collect artificial fibers that the bacteria in your tank can’t digest. For those who have a septic tank, it’s highly suggested that you never use the trash disposal under the kitchen sink. In order for the food to flow through the septic tank filter, it must be broken down by the disposal. You will increase the quantity of solids by as much as 50% if you use a disposal, and you will run the danger of clogging the system and causing it to go into support mode. Other strategies to assist the septic tank include taking shorter showers and installing low-flow shower heads or shower circulation restrictors to lower the amount of water entering the septic tank and allowing it to drain more quickly. An average septic tank has to be pumped every 3 to 5 years, depending on the circumstances. Maintaining a septic tank system is not very expensive, but collecting and repairing or replacing a system that has ceased operating as a result of neglect is far more expensive. Depending on the size of the tank, the number of people living in the house, and the volume of wastewater produced, some septic systems may require pumping once a year. There are certain systems that may last up to 5 years between septic tank pumps. In order to prolong the life of your septic tank, it is often recommended that you hire a professional every 3 to 5 years. Tank cleaning should be performed on a regular basis, rather than at set intervals, depending on the amount of waste in the tank. You may find a professional to assist you in maintaining and extending the life of your septic system by searching online for “septic tank pumping near me.” As a reminder, South End Plumbing provides a wide range of plumbing services, and we are only a click away. You may also reach out to us if you need help detecting leaks. One of the few plumbing firms that will provide you with a free estimate is South End Plumbing. Make an appointment by calling 704-919-1722 or using the online form.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. The life expectancy of a septic system is: This page explains the normal life expectancy of septic systems as well as the various components that make up a septic system. The life expectancy of a septic tank is mostly determined by the materials used in its construction, but the life expectancy of septic system pipe is largely determined by the likelihood of damage by vehicle traffic, root blockage, or flooding by groundwater.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page.

Septic System Component Life Expectancy

When a homeowner understands the right techniques for septic tank care, such as the frequency of septic tank cleaning and other septic tank maintenance duties, he or she will be better able to extend the life of their onsite septic system and ensure that it is operating effectively.

How Quickly Does A Septic System Fail? How long will a septic tank, D-box, or absorption bed last?

Keep in mind that the most essential thing a homeowner can do to extend the life of a private (onsite) septic system is to pump the septic tank on a regular basis based on the number of building occupants, the size of the tank, and the amount of wastewater produced. See TANK PUMPING SCHEDULE for further information.

• Septic Tank Pumping Frequency: Assuming you have a working and reasonably-designed septic system to begin with, the most major action you can take to extend the life of your septic system is to have the septic tank cleaned or “pumped” on a regular basis. See TANK PUMPING SCHEDULE for further information. the name of a table that calculates how frequently a certain septic tank need this treatment
• It is important to understand how the septic system is used, including the amount of wastewater produced and the kind of things that are flushed down the septic system drains. Reducing the amount of water used lessens the stress on the absorption field. By avoiding the use of chemicals or materials that do not biodegrade, the pace of solid build-up in the septic tank can be reduced. Please see the section “DON’T FLUSH INTO THE TOILETthese items into a septic system” for a list of what is and is not acceptable to flush down toilets or down building drains
• Soil conditions such as soil percolation rate, ground water or surface water levels, and the volume and level of ground water or surface water that have an impact on the soil absorption area or drain field The materials used in septic tanks corrode over time, first losing their baffles (which causes drain field obstruction) and then rusting at the bottom or sides of the tank. The pace at which rust develops is determined by the soil conditions, soil acidity, and other variables. When properly installed and maintained, an unlined concrete septic tank may last for over 40 years, excluding instances of improperly mixed concrete or acidic soils, both of which might shorten the tank’s life expectancy. Unless they are mechanically damaged, plastic or fiberglass septic tanks may be expected to survive for a similar amount of time. In many cases, the lifespan of Special Components (such as effluent pumps or septic grinder pumps) along with the lifespan of septic filters, media, and sand bed filter systems dictates the requirement for maintenance of alternate-design septic systems that make use of these components. Trees or plants in the vicinity whose roots have infiltrated system components
• Septic soakaway beds located in wet soils, near high water tables, near creeks and streams that are susceptible to flooding all have a short life expectancy and may be improperly or illegally installed
• Surface and roof runoff directed into drainfields
• And roof or surface runoff directed into drainfields The following is the water use in the building: The amount of water used in a building has an impact on the drainfield, as do exceptional or abnormal amounts of water consumption, such as toilets that are always running. See When a toilet runs continuously or a water softener is stuck in the “backwash” cycle, it can overwhelm a septic drainfield, causing it to break and contaminating the surrounding area. Similarly, a water softener that is trapped in the regeneration cycle and continues to run can cause flooding in septic fields, and a water conditioner that is incorrectly calibrated can introduce an excessive amount of salt into the water can cause damage to the drainfield. For more information on how water softeners function, see HOW SOFTTENERS WORK. Advice on how to set the water softener timing and salt dose may be found atWATER SOFTENER ADJUSTMENTCONTROLS.

How Quickly Will the Septic System Fail if We Have One or More of the Problems Listed Above?

It is not necessary to pump septic systems (tank and absorption system, or onsite wastewater disposal systems) to ensure that they do not fail instantly. However, an unmaintained septic tank no longer provides enough protection against particles in the soil absorption field. If the drain field is neglected for an extended period of time, it might limit its life and cause system failure, which may need total replacement of the soil absorption field. There are various situations when site constraints prevent the replacement of the absorption field from being possible – or at least impossible using a typical drainfield design method There are a variety of alternative designs available to address these issues.

How long do you anticipate it to endure before costly repairs to the septic tank or to the septic drain field are required?

How Long do Individual Septic System Components like Tanks, Piping, D-Boxes, Filters or Pumps Last?

A steel septic tank will rust out on a timeline that is determined by the acidity of the soil, the grade of the tank steel, and the integrity of the coating. An older steel septic tank, such as one that is 15 or 20 years old, is likely to have corroded to the point of losing its baffles and maybe having a rusted out bottom, which are issues that can be identified during septic tank cleaning and inspection. A steel septic tank cover will survive until it is either driven over by an idiot or rusted away.

1. A traditional septic drain field has a variable life span that is determined by the soil percolation rate, the drainfield size, and the degree of usage.
2. I’ve witnessed a traditional septic drainfield collapse within 24 hours of being used for the first time on a new system due to improper pipe installation.
3. If you ask your neighbors who have comparable soils and systems, they may be able to provide valuable insight.
4. A septic tank is simply one component of a complete on-site wastewater treatment system.

Preserving the septic tank, on the other hand, will help to extend the life of the absorption system, leach field, or drainfield, which is the more expensive second part of the onsite wastewater treatment system.

What to Do ifyou have just moved into a home with a septic system

If you’ve recently purchased a property that has a septic tank, you may not be aware of the size of the tank, its maintenance history, or even the location of the septic tank in question. As a result, you should have your tank emptied out and checked for damage. The business that is pumping the tank will be able to tell you the size, age, and condition of the tank.

Reader CommentsQ A

Pete Providing your excavator digs enough space around the concrete septic tank and the tank is not damaged, it should be feasible to lift and transport the tank without difficulty. I need to relocate a 1000-gallon septic tank because of construction. My main concern is the tank’s structural stability given its age. It’s 40 years old and appears to be in fine shape; the baffles have exhibited just little degradation. Without pumping, I can’t see the edges or the bottom of the tank. If the baffles appear to be in excellent condition, I suppose that would imply a tank that is sufficiently sound to transport.

Additionally, the baffles and concrete of the distribution box appear to be of high quality (I do realize this is a separate entity).

Please keep all comments to a minimum.

“Code” compliance is, of course, a contentious issue; no one purchasing a 40-year-old home can reasonably expect that all of the home’s features will comply with current building codes, nor can the owners be required to update every item to current codes, which cover a wide range of topics from structure to mechanicals to lot line setbacks and clearances to radon mitigation.

• Krause.
• Septic tanks of greater capacity can lengthen the life of any drainfield in general; nevertheless, my 50+ years of expertise in this field leads me to advise that it would be folly to place any expectations on a 40-year-old septic drainfield’s ability to perform.
• It’s all too usual for new homeowners to move into a house, possibly with a younger or larger family, and immediately discover that the drainfield has collapsed due to a lack of maintenance.
• We conducted an examination on a house that was built 40 years ago and still had its original septic system.
• Working with our realtor, I’m attempting to determine if the property owners would be willing to replace it with a new 1500-gallon tank.
• Greg Once the new drainfield has been installed, if there is enough space on the site for it, the contractor leaves everything in the old field in its original condition while excavating new drainfield trenches either in another location or in parallel with the existing trenches.
• If there isn’t enough space, the entire field design is dubious and should be reviewed by a septic engineer who will take into consideration soil perc rates, available space, and other factors.

Beyond that general recommendation, I’m not sure what aspect of your site necessitates the digging up and relocation of existing lines, but I believe it has something to do with a lack of area for the fields.

Just the size of an extra hole that will have to be excavated on my land in order to fit all of the stone, sand, and whatever other materials come with it is something I’m concerned about.

Once again, thank you.

You might be wondering how much excavation and disruption will be required in the first place.

Thank you so much for your prompt answer.

That being said, he said that all of the debris from the failed field would be buried in another location in my yard, which I’m not certain about.

Alternatively, should I request that the material be taken away?

Once again, thank you.

After a few years, you switch between them, giving the one that is “off” time to thin and reduce the likelihood of clogging and failure.

It’s a well-known design, however if I were the builder, I wouldn’t make any guarantees about how long it will last.

See STEPS FOR IMPROVED SEPTIC LIFEHello Sirs and Madams, My standard drain field, which has been in place for 23 years, is nearing the end of its useful life.

His advice is to build a new chamber field and install a valve to allow for switching from one field to another.

He stated that my traditional system will self-restore after approximately 7 years and will continue to function normally.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

Rita According on what you’ve described, a realistic planning estimate indicates that you’ll need to:1.

replace your existing septic tank.

create a drainage system (or at the very least scope every drainfield line and dig up a couple of sample cross-sections to see how the field was constructed, amount of gravel, biomat condition) If the tree and its roots are removed, the drainfield must be relocated to an appropriate location.

What about a system that was built in 1978 but has seen minimal use since then?

Twenty years ago, a tree root had broken the cement tank in half, so they chopped the tree root and placed root killer in it.

We wish to bring the property back to life, however we are unsure about the system after so many years of inactivity.

We had a discussion about this system at You’ll see that I’ve presented a number of questions that I hope will assist you get a better understanding of the current state of the system.

We have a steel clargester that has been in service for 30 years and manages the garbage for nine residences.

Ron, how many more years do you think it will be before it has to be replaced?

I wish there was a solution like this that worked and didn’t pollute the environment like some of the harsh chemicals that people have tried in the past.

Is there a method to divide the field into smaller sections?

Alternatively, view the FAQs on SEPTIC LIFE EXPECTANCY- questions and answers that were originally presented at the conclusion of this page. Alternatively, consider the following:

Articles on the life expectancy of a septic system

• Pete Providing your excavator drills enough space around the concrete septic tank and the tank is not damaged, it should be feasible to lift and transport the tank with relative ease. A 1000-gallon septic tank must be relocated due to construction. My main concern is the tank’s structural stability, which is becoming older every year. 40 years old and in good shape
• The baffles have exhibited very little degradation in their 40 years of use. The sides and bottom are completely obscured unless I pump. The baffles appear to be in decent condition, which suggests that the tank is sufficiently sound to be moved about. Agreed? Additionally, the baffles and concrete of the distribution box appear to be in good condition. (I do realize this is a separate entity). It appears that changing the system is not essential because the field has been cleaned and inspected and has taken all of the water we have poured into it. Please post any and all comments. Greetings to everyone! It goes without saying that “code” compliance is a contentious issue
• No one purchasing a 40-year-old home can reasonably expect that all of the home’s features will comply with current building codes, nor can the owners be required to update every item to comply with current codes, which cover a wide range of topics from structure and mechanicals to lot line setback and clearances. In fact, just ask our next-door neighbor, Mr. Krause. He may have been forced to relocate his house twenty feet to the left. Septic tanks of greater capacity can extend the life of any drainfield in general
• But, my 50+ years of expertise in this field leads me to advise that it would be stupid to place any expectations on a 40-year-old septic drainfield’s ability to do so in particular. Even the fact that the field has “survived” for 40 years with only a modest septic tank would serve as a signal that the field is likely to be towards the end of its usable life, if not already past it. In many cases, new residents move into a property, possibly with a younger or larger family, increase the amount of water they use, and are shocked to realize that the drainage system has collapsed. Consequently, it would be advisable to include in your financial planning an understanding that you may be required to repair your septic fields at any point in the near future. On a house that was 40 years old and still had its original septic system, we performed an examination. The inspection was successful, however the septic tank was found to be only 500 gallons in capacity, while a 1500 gallon tank would have been required to be in compliance with the regulations. Currently, I’m collaborating with our realtor to determine whether or not the property owners would be willing to replace it with a new 1500-gallon tank. In addition, if the drain field is properly maintained, will this perhaps lengthen its life? Greg The contractor leaves everything in the old field alone and untouched while excavating new drainfield trenches either in a different region or in parallel with the old trenches if there is enough space on the site to accommodate the new drainfield installation. A standard distance between trenches is 5 feet (1.5 meters). If there isn’t enough space, the entire field design should be reviewed by a septic engineer who will take into consideration soil perc rates, available space, and other factors. If it’s an old septic tank that’s being abandoned, if it’s made of steel, it’s frequently crushed flat and placed in the bottom of or alongside the hole, allowing the new septic tank to be installed in about the same location. In addition to that general advise, I’m not sure what part of your site neccessitates the digging up and relocation of existing lines, but I assume it has something to do with a shortage of room for the fields. Thank you for the information and for responding so quickly. Just the size of an extra hole that will have to be excavated on my land in order to fit all of the stone, sand, and whatever other materials come with it is something that I’m concerned about right now. The laterals are also buried, and is it necessary for this to be 100 feet from our well? Please accept my sincere gratitude once more. Greg The practice of crushing old steel septic tanks and other septic components that are no longer in service, rather than hauling them away, is rather prevalent. Barry If you’re wondering how much excavation and disruption will be required, consider this: Wow! Your prompt answer has been much appreciated. An additional contractor informed me that he would replace the field with a conventional system, such as the one I now have, and that he would not install the chamber system. That being said, he said that all of the debris from the failed field will be buried in another location in my yard, which I’m not certain about. This appears to be a regular occurrence. Otherwise, should I arrange for the removal of the waste materials myself? which, I’m sure, will drive up the price much further.” Please accept my sincere gratitude once more. Greg One of your contractors has proposed a two-septic-field plan for your consideration. After a few years, you switch between them, giving the one that is “off” time to thin and reduce the likelihood of clogging and failure. I hope that by allowing the drain trenches to rest for a few years, the natural bio-mat that forms around them will thin and reduce the likelihood of clogging and failure during that time. If I were the contractor, I wouldn’t make any promises about how long it will last because it is a well-known design. Several factors influence the efficacy of the “rest time” in “restoring” the “off” drainfield, including the soil type, porosity, composition of the soil, the initial percolation rate of the soil, the degree of usage, and the history of the septic tank pumping (avoiding pushing solids into the drainfield). See STEPS FOR IMPROVED SEPTIC LIFEHello Sirs, and welcome to the site. My standard drain field, which has been in place for 23 years, is nearing the end of its service life. In order to inspect my septic system, I hired a septic professional. According to him, a new chamber field should be built, and a valve should be installed to allow for switching between fields. What I’m not sure about is how to handle this situation. He stated that my traditional system will self-restore after approximately 7 years and will continue to perform normally. This appears to be correct. Your time has been much appreciated. The email address is [email protected]. Greg Rita A plausible planning estimate based on your description is that you will need to:1. install a new septic tank
• And2. replace your existing septic tank. a drainage field should be developed (or at the very least scope every drainfield line and dig up a couple of sample cross-sections to see how the field was constructed, amount of gravel, biomat condition) 3) either remove the tree and its roots, or relocate the drainfield to a suitable distance (see theARTICLE INDEXfor an article on planting over or near the drainfield and the appropriate distances). 4) In addition, what is the status of the drainage system? For example, consider a system that was deployed in 1978 but has seen minimal use since then. How long have the premises remained vacant for? Twenty years ago, a tree root had broken the cement tank in half, so they chopped the tree root and placed root killer in it. However, the tree is still large and growing close. Because of the property’s long period of unusedness, we are unsure about the system’s functionality. Hi Mike and welcome to the site. While in the meeting, we talked about this system. Throughout the document, you will find questions that I believe will assist in providing a better understanding of the current state of the system. A difference should be made between the need for specific components such as pumps and filters to be repaired or replaced and the need for a whole effluent absorption field or drain field to be rebuilt in my opinion as well. We have a steel clargester that has been in service for 30 years and manages the garbage for nine homes. A regular maintenance schedule has been followed. It’s likely to be several more years before it has to be replaced, Ron. I’ve looked into services and systems that claim to restore drainfields, some of which are backed by (what I consider to be biased) “White papers,” but I’ve found none that have been reported as effective or as adding meaningful life to a septic field when the failure is caused by soil clogging from a mature biomat by either our readers or independent research. I wish there was a product like this that worked and didn’t pollute the environment like some of the harsh chemicals that people have tried to make it happen. No, my title five septic field, which has been in operation for fifteen years, looks to be in trouble. Is it possible to divide the field into smaller sections? At SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LIFE, you may read more. Or you may browse the completeARTICLE INDEX, or choose a topic from the articles that are closely linked to yours. For further information, check the FAQs on SEPTIC LIFE EXPECTANCY, which were originally presented at the conclusion of this article. Alternatively, have a look at

• FORMATIONS OF BIOMATTERIALS PLANTSTREES ON TOP OF SEPTIC SYSTEMS
• EPTIC DRAINFIELD LIFE
• SEPTIC FIELD FAILURE CAUSES
• EPTIC SYSTEM AGE
• EPTIC LIFE

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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Septic System Age How Old is the Septic Tank, Septic Fields, Septic Piping?

• ASK a question or make a comment regarding the normal life expectancy of septic system components in the comments section.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Determining the age of a septic system This article series discusses the normal life expectancy of septic systems as well as the various components that make up a septic system. For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Septic System Age Determination

2018/05/25 Marie-Josée Raymond expressed herself as follows: Occupation of a residence at 3397 Kentucky Lane in Navan, Ontario. I’d want to know how old my septic tank and field are, please. This Q & A about the age of a septic system was first posted at The following is an index of SEPTIC SYSTEMS articles.

Reply:

Marie, Thank you for your outstanding question: how can I establish the age of my septic system, tank, and drainfields? I appreciate your help. While on the job, your septic contractor can examine the following components of your septic system: the septic tank access port, cleanout cover, tank material, pipe material (PVC, cast iron, terra cotta, ORANGEBURG PIPE), and the septic tank itself. septic tanks and lines In addition to the kind of plumbing, the materials used in septic tanks (steel, concrete, plastic, fiberglass, and home-made) provide date information.

• Leaning over (methane asphyxiation) or falling into a septic system both carry the danger of death.
• The life expectancy of a septic tank is mostly determined by the materials used in its construction, but the life expectancy of septic system pipe is largely determined by the likelihood of damage by vehicle traffic, root blockage, or flooding by groundwater.
• If you can’t identify the septic system and don’t know anything about it or its history, the first step is to determine the age of the building and its plumbing system, with the assumption that the septic tank and fields are not much older than the structure and plumbing system.
• If so, look atPLUMBING MATERIALSFIXTURE AGE.
• ORANGEBURG PIPE was originally utilized in Boston in 1865, although it was not employed in septic drain fields until the late 1940s and early 1960s, according to historical records.
• Check with your local building or health department to see whether any plans for your septic system have been submitted in the past, and if so, when.
• It is possible that the septic system drawings submitted as part of a permit procedure will not correctly depict the septic system that was ultimately completed, but you will be within the correct time frame.
• Website: (in French).
• Check see theSEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDUREAtCESSPOOL AGING ESTIMATES for more information on how to check a septic tank, including the tank’s location, size, type, materials, and overall condition.

I have not attempted to replicate the results for typical septic systems, which employ a septic tank and a drainage field. More information about septic system age may be found in these two articles. THE EXPECTANCY OF SEPTIC LIFE THE EXPECTANCY OF SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LIFE

Reader CommentsQ A

These nevertheless are made of something like clay and range in size from 12 to 18 inches in section. At the construction phase, they do not like to fit inside of one another; instead they butch up to one another and are covered with tar paper merely at the seams, which is why they are called “tar paper.” @Michelle, The Orangeburg pipe, which was a black perforated pipe that was utilized in septic drain fields, was what I believe you were referring to. Please refer to the app description for further information.

• I’m curious as to what type of drain field makes use of 12 to 18 inch sections of pipe that are kept together with tar paper.
• As an aside, I would want to point out that the size of the septic tank is inadequate by today’s standards, and the Orangeburg pipe that you describe is undoubtedly something that you would presume is no longer in working order.
• Our house was once a cottage that was only sometimes utilized.
• The piping that I can see is Orangeburg, and there is no distribution box; instead, there is a T approximately 6 feet away from the tank.
• It just had two lines, in my opinion, because it was a modest home.
• Given the age and character of the property, what are your thoughts?
• For example, unlike some other items, septic tanks are not often date stamped, and they do not have a product ID code or data tag attached to them.

For example, you could come across plans for the installation of a septic system that have been filed.

What is the best way to determine the age of my septic tank?

If you fall in, you might suffer serious injuries or perhaps death.

The cover for a steel septic tank is generally readily pulled off by excavating slightly past the perimeter of the tank lid when it is in this location.

It is possible that it will need to be emptied and replaced.

As well as this, see WHERE CAN I FIND A SEPTIC TANK?

So far, this is what I’ve discovered.

Is this an entry point for the pump out system?

Is it necessary to add another access point?

There are two bedrooms and a bathroom in this tiny home.

Way You may try posting a photo of the Stone album cover that you were discussing using the head image button and I might be able to offer a more useful response.

It is made of stone with four holes in the centre, and it is entirely by hand.

wayne Lisa See the information provided atSEPTIC OR SEWER CONECTION.

I’d want to know when a house’s septic system and well water were installed.

According to Mark Cramer, a Tampa-based specialist, it all depends.

Best case scenario: fecal waste can be stored for decades in a sewage pit, seepage pit, cesspit, or outhouse due to the fact that it is extremely concentrated in one location with little to no oxygen, bacteria, or dilution.

In order to get more information, go to our article on SEPTIC CLEARANCE DISTANCES in theARTICLE INDEX.

Alternatively, it is likely that gravity was used to direct water to the d-box at the specified depth.

Hi: I recently discovered that the distribution box for my septic system is 6 feet below the surface of the ground.

Does this imply that the drain field is also far deeper under the surface than it would be otherwise?

Do you have any clue why the D-box and drain are buried so deep beneath the surface?

Please accept my thanks for your enlightening response; have a wonderful day.

In my opinion, you are possibly not paying attention to the essence of the matter, which is that any system that is that old would be deemed to be at or near the end of its anticipated life in any event, regardless of its age.

When it comes to buried components, I would anticipate your counsel to state that as long as the nature of what’s there is disclosed, you are not making any representations regarding their future utility.

Even if those do not reveal an immediate problem, if a system is tiny and old, and I were advising a buyer, I would advise them to budget for the possibility of having to replace the system in the future.

Very often, you’ll discover that what you’re concerned about is not what your consumer is concerned about at all.

My main worry is that I want to keep the number of residents as low as possible to avoid the septic tank overflowing during the sale of my property with owner financing.

For clarification, I contacted the local health department to see whether I could limit the number of individuals to three, and the response I received was as follows: Septic systems have traditionally been designed to accommodate two persons per bedroom.

What I’m wondering is, do you happen to know what the average size of a septic tank was in 1940?

Thank you so much for your assistance.

Is it possible for water from a strong rain or rising lake water to seep into a storage tank? How well are they protected from groundwater intrusion from the outside?

Question:septic system installation in Newfoundland, Canada lasted 60 years

(15th of May, 2014) Art Mercer recalled his involvement in the construction of a concrete septic tank for his family’s home in Newfoundland, Canada, in 1958 when he was 14 years old. With the help of 8″ pieces of aluminum piping, we dug a septic field behind the house (on rural land). This septic system has been in continuous service since that time (for more than 60 years), and it has never been closed or opened. It will be switched to the local town septic system later this week, by my brother (who was not even born at the time of the conversion).

Reply:

Thank you for informing me about your achievement, Art. In fact, there are several historic septic system drainfields that are still in use today. On a regular basis, I observe that soil qualities are critical to the efficient disposal of wastewater. As an example, in 1998, I dug a septic system that had been installed in 1920 but was still “working,” sustaining the residence of a single elderly inhabitant who had noticed odors surrounding the septic tank and reported them to me. We discovered that there was no drainfield or even a seepage hole where we were looking.

The effluent was disposed away, despite the fact that it had received very rudimentary treatment.

Question: 36 year old septic systems: contractor wants too much to do a repair

22nd of October, 2014) Sherry Lewis shared her experience, saying, “My septic system is 36 years old.” It is made of concrete (if the stand pipes are made of concrete, I assume the tank is as well), it has two tanks (the second is said to be an overflow tank), the soil in my area is mostly sandy (due to the proximity to the ocean), and I have lived in my house for approximately 30 years as the only occupant.

1. In addition, I only use the garbage disposal for the tiniest pieces of food that manage to find their way into it, and I don’t put anything else into the system other than water, soap, the tiniest amount of garbage trash, and toilet waste.
2. In the past, I phoned them because air was gushing out of my downstairs toilet and a buddy said that this meant danger as well as a full tank of gas.
3. The pumper man stated that, partly because of the system’s age, it was probably time to replace it, either completely or at the very least the leach field.
4. 2) When I spoke with a contractor about the task, he informed me that a lift station would be required owing to the high level of ground water (8′).
5. He recommended the lift station without visiting my home to measure the depth of my present sewage pipe, and I intend to contact him to confirm this rather than assume that they will not accommodate a standard system like the one I already have.
6. In the end, the gentleman who came to dig the test hole in order to determine the water level estimated an approximate cost of $7,000 or slightly more if I declared 4 instead of 3 bedrooms.

Because of the lift station, the contractor that will perform the replacement work has quoted a price that is nearly twice as much as the original estimate! That appears to be absurdly expensive! Please, someone assist me! Thank you so much for your assistance.

Reply:

The 22nd of October, 2014. “My septic system is 36 years old,” Sherry Lewis explained. There are two tanks (I’m told the second is an overflow tank), it is made of concrete (if the stand pipes are made of concrete, then I assume the tank is made of concrete), the soil in my area is mostly sandy (because of its proximity to the ocean), and I have lived in my house for approximately 30 years as the only occupant. I also only use the garbage disposal for the tiniest bits of food that manage to get into it, and I don’t put anything else into the system than water, soap and a little amount of garbage and toilet waste.

• Earlier this year, when my tank was pumped, I had phoned them because air was bursting out of my downstairs toilet and a friend said that this meant difficulty and a full tank.
• Specifically because of the system’s age, the pumper man stated that it was likely time to replace the system in its entirety, or at the very least the leach field.
• (2) A lift station would be required, according to a contractor that was hired to conduct the work, because of the high groundwater level (8′).
• However, a high water table issue has swamped over 50 homes less than 5 miles away, and there are signs that “it” (the high water) is on its way to my house.
• My knowledge of the water table level at the time of its construction is limited, but I assume it was a little lower than eight feet.
• Because of the lift station, the contractor that will perform the replacement work has quoted a price that is about DOUBLE that amount!
• Thank you for your assistance!

Reply:

We wholeheartedly agree with Harry. See The Home Buyer’s Guide to Sewer and Drainage Systems Additionally, we provide septic system guidance to clients who are selling their house. SEPTIC TESTS FOR HOME SELLER’S GUIDELINES

Question: remove a tree from the septic tank?

We wholeheartedly agree with you, Mr. Potter. See HOW TO INSTALL SEPTIC SYSTEM IN YOUR HOME also provide septic system assistance to those who are selling their house SEPTIC TESTS FOR HOME SELLER’S GUIDE

Reply:

Yes An in-depth guide may be found at PLANTSTREES OVER SEPTIC SYSTEMS.

Continue reading atSEPTIC LIFE EXPECTANCY, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for a comprehensive list of articles. Alternatively, consider the following:

Details about the life expectancy of a septic system

• CESSPOOL AGE ESTIMATES
• SEPTIC LIFE EXPECTANCY
• SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LIFE
• SEPTIC LIFE MAXIMIZING STEPS
• SEPTIC FIELD FAILURE CAUSES
• SEPTIC SYSTEM AGE
• SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND
• SEPTIC TANK,

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How to Care for Your Septic System

Septic system maintenance is neither difficult or expensive, and it does not have to be done frequently. The maintenance of a vehicle is comprised of four major components:

• Inspect and pump your drainfield on a regular basis
• Conserve water
• Dispose of waste properly
• And keep your drainfield in good condition.

Inspect and Pump Frequently

Inspection of the ordinary residential septic system should be performed by a septic service specialist at least once every three years. Household septic tanks are normally pumped every three to five years, depending on how often they are used. Alternative systems that use electrical float switches, pumps, or mechanical components should be examined more frequently, typically once a year, to ensure that they are in proper working order. Because alternative systems contain mechanical components, it is essential to have a service contract.

• The size of the household
• The total amount of wastewater produced
• The amount of solids present in wastewater
• The size of the septic tank

Service provider coming? Here is what you need to know.

When you contact a septic service provider, he or she will inspect your septic tank for leaks as well as the scum and sludge layers that have built up over time. Maintain detailed records of any maintenance work conducted on your septic system. Because of the T-shaped outlet on the side of your tank, sludge and scum will not be able to escape from the tank and travel to the drainfield region. A pumping is required when the bottom of the scum layer or the top of the sludge layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, or if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet.

In the service report for your system, the service provider should mention the completion of repairs as well as the condition of the tank.

An online septic finder from the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association (NOWRA) makes it simple to identify service specialists in your region.

Use Water Efficiently

In a normal single-family house, the average indoor water consumption is about 70 gallons per person, per day, on average. A single leaking or running toilet can waste as much as 200 gallons of water each day, depending on the situation. The septic system is responsible for disposing of all of the water that a residence sends down its pipes. The more water that is conserved in a household, the less water that enters the sewage system.

A septic system that is operated efficiently will operate more efficiently and will have a lower chance of failure. The Environmental Protection Agency’s WaterSense program offers several simple strategies to conserve water as well as water-efficient goods.

• Toilets with a high level of efficiency. The usage of toilets accounts for 25 to 30% of total home water use. Many older homes have toilets with reservoirs that hold 3.5 to 5 gallons of water, but contemporary, high-efficiency toilets consume 1.6 gallons or less of water for each flush. Changing out your old toilets for high-efficiency versions is a simple approach to lessen the amount of household water that gets into your septic system. Aerators for faucets and high-efficiency showerheads are also available. Reduce water use and the volume of water entering your septic system by using faucet aerators, high-efficiency showerheads, and shower flow restriction devices. Machines for washing clothes. Water and energy are wasted when little loads of laundry are washed on the large-load cycle of your washing machine. By selecting the appropriate load size, you may limit the amount of water wasted. If you are unable to specify a load size, only complete loads of washing should be performed. Washing machine use should be spread throughout the week if at all possible. Doing all of your household laundry in one day may appear to be a time-saving strategy
• Nevertheless, it can cause damage to your septic system by denying your septic tank adequate time to handle waste and may even cause your drainfield to overflow. Machines that have earned theENERGY STARlabel consume 35 percent less energy and 50 percent less water than ordinary ones, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Other Energy Star appliances can save you a lot of money on your energy and water bills.

Properly Dispose of Waste

Everything that goes down your drains, whether it’s flushed down the toilet, ground up in the trash disposal, or poured down the sink, shower, or bath, ends up in your septic system, which is where it belongs. What you flush down the toilet has an impact on how effectively your septic system functions.

Toilets aren’t trash cans!

Your septic system is not a garbage disposal system. A simple rule of thumb is to never flush anything other than human waste and toilet paper down the toilet. Never flush a toilet:

• Cooking grease or oil
• Wipes that are not flushable, such as baby wipes or other wet wipes
• Photographic solutions
• Feminine hygiene items Condoms
• Medical supplies such as dental floss and disposable diapers, cigarette butts and coffee grounds, cat litter and paper towels, pharmaceuticals, and household chemicals such as gasoline and oil, insecticides, antifreeze, and paint or paint thinners

Toilet Paper Needs to Be Flushed! Check out this video, which demonstrates why the only item you should flush down your toilet are toilet paper rolls.

Think at the sink!

Your septic system is made up of a collection of living organisms that digest and treat the waste generated by your household. Pouring pollutants down your drain can kill these organisms and cause damage to your septic system as well as other things. Whether you’re at the kitchen sink, the bathtub, or the utility sink, remember the following:

• If you have a clogged drain, avoid using chemical drain openers. To prevent this from happening, use hot water or a drain snake
• Never dump cooking oil or grease down the sink or toilet. It is never a good idea to flush oil-based paints, solvents, or huge quantities of harmful cleansers down the toilet. Even latex paint waste should be kept to a bare minimum. Disposal of rubbish should be avoided or limited to a minimum. Fats, grease, and particles will be considerably reduced in your septic tank, reducing the likelihood of your drainfield being clogged.

Own a recreational vehicle (RV), boat or mobile home?

If you have ever spent any time in an RV or boat, you are undoubtedly familiar with the issue of aromas emanating from sewage holding tanks.

• The problem of smells from sewage holding tanks is undoubtedly familiar to everyone who has spent any time in an RV or boat.

Maintain Your Drainfield

It is critical that you maintain the integrity of your drainfield, which is a component of your septic system that filters impurities from the liquid that emerges from your septic tank once it has been installed. Here are some things you should do to keep it in good condition:

• Parking: Do not park or drive on your drainfield at any time. Plan your tree plantings so that their roots do not grow into your drainfield or septic system. An experienced septic service provider can recommend the appropriate distance for your septic tank and surrounding landscaping, based on your specific situation. Locating Your Drainfield: Keep any roof drains, sump pumps, and other rainfall drainage systems away from the drainfield area. Excess water causes the wastewater treatment process to slow down or halt completely.