How Wide Is The Opening Of A Septic Tank Lid?

What are the dimensions of a residential septic tank?

• Septic Tanks are usually about 4.5 feet wide x 8.0 feet long x 6 feet tall. Tanks are typically buried 4 inches to 4 feet deep depending on local site conditions, shape, slope, and other factors.

How big around is a septic tank lid?

Locate The Lid Most septic tanks are rectangular and measure about 5 feet by 8 feet. Probe around the tank to locate its edges and mark the perimeter of the rectangle. A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle.

How big is an old septic tank lid?

If your septic tank was installed after 1975, it will probably have two polyethylene or fiberglass lids centered at opposite sides of the perimeter. Older tanks will typically have a 24-inch concrete lid right in the center of the tank.

How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?

Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.

Why does my septic tank have 2 lids?

Solid, watertight, buried tank made of concrete, plastic, fiberglass or metal. This tank has a way in (inlet), and a way out (outlet). So, most residential tanks should have (2) lids about 5′ away from each other. A septic tank holds all the liquid waste from your home (toilets, sinks, kitchen, bathtubs, floor drains).

How do you lift a septic tank lid?

Some tank lids have built-in handles to pull on, but others require a pry bar to lift them open. If the lid comes with handles, ask for the assistance of a friend or family member to remove the lid. If it doesn’t, push a screwdriver into the seam around the lid and insert the pry bar into the gap. Then, press down.

How do you hide a septic tank cover?

The Do’s For Hiding Your Septic Tank

1. Plant tall native grasses with fibrous roots around the opening to conceal the tank lid from view.
2. Place a light statue, bird bath or potted plant over the septic lid.
3. Septic tank risers and covers are an alternative to concrete and blend into green grass.

How do I know my septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

1. Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
2. Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
3. Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
4. You Hear Gurgling Water.
5. You Have A Sewage Backup.
6. How often should you empty your septic tank?

Should a septic tank lid be sealed?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

How do you lift a concrete septic tank?

There is a pry bar between the lid and the top of the tank. The handle should be held on top of the lid by your helpers. Push down on the pry bar to open the concrete lid.

How heavy is a septic tank lid?

The most common tanks, starting in the 1940s, are concrete, with 3 – 500# lids for a 1000 gallon tank or 4 – 500# lids for a 1500 gallon tank. In the late 1990s, tanks started using 16” square concrete plugs with a lifting bail for easier access to both sides of the tank.

Do you need to pump both sides of a septic tank?

Septic tanks installed after the late 1980s have two compartments, and it is important to pump out both compartments each time. Most homeowners are unaware when their septic tank has two compartments; some companies use that to their advantage, charging to pump both sides of the tank but only actually pumping out one.

How often should a septic tank be pumped?

Inspect and Pump Frequently Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.

How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.

Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

It should be possible to uncover the lid or lids by digging with a spade in specific spots, depending on when year the tank was constructed.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

Concrete Septic Tank Lid: Sizes, Weight & Cost (Explained)

An underground septic tank is used to store all of the foul-smelling soil that travels through the drain. A concrete septic tank not only removes the obstruction from the drain, but it also helps to maintain our environment clean. For the purpose of inspection and cleaning, a concrete-made septic tank lid is always required for the concrete septic tank to function properly. It also prevents the foul odor that emanates from the tank from reaching its surroundings outside of the tank. As a result, we have included a brief explanation of the sizes, weights, and prices of the concrete septic tank lid in this post.

How big and thick is a concrete septic tank lid?

Depending on the size of the tank, a concrete septic tank lid might be as large as 30 inches. The concrete tank lid can have a thickness of more than 3 inches, and the concrete thickness can range between 3000 and 6000 PSI, depending on the application. If the lid is composed of firm concrete with a high PSI, the thickness of the lid might be greater than 6 inches in some cases. The size of a septic tank lid is typically determined by the size of the actual septic tank. Because the typical dimension of a concrete septic tank is 40 inches by 60 inches, this is the most common configuration.

In addition, the size of the septic tank varies based on the size of the concrete tank used in the system.

Before discussing the thickness of a septic tank lid, it is important to remember that the thickness of the lid is directly proportional to the strength of the concrete.

A thicker lid can be used in this situation if the thickness is greater than 5 inches.

How much does a concrete septic tank lid weigh?

Septic tank lids made of concrete can be as large as 30 inches in diameter. More than 3 inches in thickness may be achieved for the concrete tank lid; in addition, concrete thicknesses ranging from 3000 to 6000 PSI can be achieved. If the lid is built of firm concrete with a high PSI, the thickness of the lid might be greater than 6 inches. In most cases, the size of a septic tank’s lid is dictated by the size of the tank itself. This is due to the fact that the typical dimensions of a concrete septic tank is 40 by 60 inches.

The size of a septic tank is also dependent on the size of the concrete tank it is connected to.

To begin with, it is important to remember that the thickness of the lid of a septic tank is determined by the strength of the concrete that was used to build it.

It is referred to as hard concrete if the PSI of the concrete ranges from 40000 to 60000. Depending on the situation, the lid’s thickness may exceed five inches in this circumstance. Another factor that influences the thickness of a concrete septic tank is its overall size.

How much does a concrete septic tank lid cost?

Concrete sewage tank lids are typically priced based on the size of the primary septic tank. The cost of a lid that will precisely cover septic tanks ranging in size from 9000 to 13000 gallons (which is the largest) will be in the neighborhood of $500 or more. The typical size, which is 25 inches in length, will cost around 40 dollars to purchase. According to industry standards, the cost of a concrete septic tank lid is typically determined by the size of the concrete lid. The most expensive concrete septic tank lid is 130 inches in diameter and costs around 500 dollars.

How to build a concrete septic tank lid?

We’ve outlined the quickest and most straightforward procedure for constructing a septic tank cover. The following is a description of the procedure:

Measurement:

First and foremost, you will need to determine the size of the mouth or entrance region of your septic tank, which can be found here. Then, using a measuring tape, you must precisely determine the location of the septic tank’s perimeter.

Build a frame:

The following phase will be to construct a frame that will be based on the same measurement as the septic tank’s mouth. Aluminum or dry wood should be used to construct the frame. However, make certain that the frame is free of the cement once it has dried.

Pour the cement:

You have now finished pouring the cement into the frame. It is important to keep the lid thick enough to be durable and long-lasting, so make sure you keep it at least three inches thick. The surface of the cement must next be smoothed and flattened to complete the process. Check to see that you have used light-duty cement instead of heavy-duty cement.

How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?

Depending on the size of the septic tank, it may require at least two lids. This is because pouring concrete for your septic tank might be a difficult task. When you initially attempt to construct a lid for your concrete septic tank, you should be able to construct at least two lids. The reason for this is that, if you construct two covers for your septic tank, you will have an easier time during the cleaning and inspection processes. Additionally, if you include two lids to the septic tank, the ventilation system of the septic tank will run more smoothly.

How much does it cost to replace a septic tank lid?

The cost of constructing an average-sized septic tank lid will be around 60 dollars. A septic tank system with two lids will cost between 110 and 120 dollars, depending on how many are included. If you choose the heavy-duty free cement, the price will be somewhat greater than if you do not. Because strong duty-free cement provides a long-lasting and durable finish to the lid. Additionally, the cost of fabricating a custom-sized septic tank lid will be in the neighborhood of $100. To be more specific, it will cost more than 500 dollars to construct the largest possible lid, which is 130 inches in diameter.

How to lift and replace the concrete septic tank lid?

Lifting and replacing a concrete sewage tank lid is far more difficult than installing a new septic tank lid, as you may imagine.

As a result, we’ve covered the quickest and most straightforward method of removing and replacing the concrete septic tank lid:

Dig around the lid:

Lifting and replacing a concrete sewage tank lid is significantly more difficult than installing a new septic tank lid, as you might imagine. For this reason, we will go through how to raise and replace the concrete septic tank lid, which is the most straightforward procedure:

Lift up the septic tank lid:

You will need to raise the lid with the assistance of a stout bar or pry bar at this point. Insert the bar between the tank’s lid and the tank’s bottom. You will next need to ask your assistance to lower the opposite end of the bar until it is flush with the ground. Repeat the procedure until the lid of the tank is entirely removed from the entrance of the tank’s opening.

Install the new lid:

It is now necessary to determine the size of the septic tank’s opening. Then you must purchase the lid, making certain that the measurements are accurate. Install the new lid by gently holding it in place with the assistance of your assistant. Finally, place the cover on top of the septic tank and secure it in place.

Can you replace a concrete septic lid with plastic?

If your septic tank requires frequent examination and cleaning, you can opt to replace the concrete septic cover with a plastic one. Because most septic tanks need to be cleaned after 1 to 2 years, they are built with a thick cover to prevent this from happening. If you have a septic tank that has to be cleaned on a regular basis, it is preferable to use plastic covers. However, because plastic lids are easily lifted up, ensure sure the lock system on the plastic lid is functional.

Should septic tank lids be airtight? How to seal a concrete septic tank lid?

Yes, it is vital to seal the septic tank from the outside world. Because it is possible that exterior water will seep into the septic tank. Additionally, if your septic system is placed on top of the soil, it is essential that the septic tank be correctly installed. If this is not done, the tank will overflow due to the exterior water. Although many types of sealant ropes can be used to seal a concrete septic tank lid, the most common one is silicone. There are several different types of butyl sealants available on the market that may be used to firmly seal the septic tank lid.

Final thoughts

Septic tank lids are available in a variety of sizes ranging from 25 to 50 inches in diameter. Furthermore, the thickness of a typical-sized lid can reach up to 3 inches. However, the cost of a standard-sized lid is 50 dollars, and it may occasionally be even more expensive than this. In addition, the weight of a 25-inch lid might be as much as 50 pounds in some cases.

Septic Tank Covers or Lids

• Send us your question or comment on septic tank covers, including their strength, collapse, or safety issues
• We’ll get back to you as soon as we can.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Covers and apertures for septic tanks, as well as access ports: We present a guide to septic tank covers, including information on where to obtain them, what they are, and how to keep them secure. Assuring that the septic tank lid is in good working order. Find out where to check for septic tanks, septic tank covers, and septic tank cleanout lids in your home.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Septic Tank Covers

What is the depth of the Septic Tank Cover once the Septic Tank has been identified? Is the cover in good condition?

Septic Tank Cover Depthlocation

Tank Cover Depth: How deep will the septic tank cover be is a question that many people ask. Most of the time, the top of the septic tank is roughly one foot below the level of the ground. However, the depth of the water fluctuates greatly. The septic cover, on the other hand, can be several feet deeper. If you take note of the depth at which the waste line leaves the building foundation wall, for example, 3 ft. below the top of the soil (grade level), and if the site were dead flat and the tank were located 12 feet from the foundation wall, at a typical waste line slope of 1/8″ to 1/4″ per linear foot of run, the septic tank’s entry port for the waste line would have to be approximately 3 ft.

If the site were dead flat and the Obviously, if the site is not flat, these septic tank cover depth estimates would be different than before.

Septic Tank Cover Safety Procedures

Take extreme precautions to ensure that the coverings and cleanout access covers over the septic tank are secure and long-lasting, so that it will be difficult for someone to fall into the tank (which is sometimes deadly), and that children will not be able to remove the cover. If your septic tank is located in a location where vehicles may drive over it, heavy-duty rated covers are available for your convenience. This is something you should discuss with your septic tank contractor. Even if there is the slightest doubt about the condition of the septic tank cover (for example, if there is evidence of subsidence over the tank location), you should cordon off the area and prevent anyone from walking over it, because falling into a septic tank is extremely dangerous and could result in death.

• See HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK for instructions on removing and replacing septic tank, cesspool, or drywell covers. DISCONNECT THE SEPTIC TANKS using different articles
• Refer to SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS for information on sewage treatment plant cover strength and vehicle loads, information that is also applicable to cesnpools, drywells, and other similar structures.

Reader Question: septic tank cover collapse

11/28/2014 The following is what Scott C. said:I have a septic system that is powered by a pump tank. The weight of the dirt beneath which the lid was buried caused the lid to fall. There were around 3’2″ of them “because of the clay type dirt that the installer used to cover it The thickness of the lid is four millimeters “. Is that up to par for a soil with so much organic matter? –

Reply:

11/28/2014 My septic system has a pump tank that is powered by electricity. Scott C. said: The weight of the dirt beneath which it was buried caused the lid to collapse. In all, there were 3’2″ “It was covered with a clay-type dirt by the installer. There are four layers of material in the lid “, What is the quality of that soil in comparison to the rest? –

Reader Question about septic tank cover security regulations in Alberta

04/30/2015 Septic Tank Lids made the following statement: Could you possibly provide me with information on the regulations governing septic tank lids in Alberta? We have a concrete BellSiphon, and I’ve noticed that the lower and smaller lids (one from each compartment) are being left at the top of the bigger lids, as well as beneath a cover on our concrete patio. Is this normal? When I confronted the owner of the pump truck firm, he responded by saying “Because they are a nuisance, that is an excellent location for them to be.

as well as the metal hooks snapping.

We’ve had the same tank system for 40 years and have always had it covered.

Thank you so much, Jane. Gravity/Siphon Dosing Systems was the site where this query and response were initially submitted.

Reply:

STL: Here is an excerpt from the Alberta septic tank code for your information. 3.1.2.3. Lid/Cover Opening with Easy Access 1) All access holes must be provided with a secure lid or cover to prevent unauthorized access. 1 One purpose of this regulation is to promote safety by prohibiting unauthorized or inadvertent entrance into the access aperture of a septic tank or holding tank. Sentence (1) explains how this regulation works. The use of a padlock and a cover that can only be removed with tools are examples of acceptable protective measures, as is the use of a cover that weighs a minimum of 29.5 kg (65 lb).

The following further comments on these techniques is provided in the handbook: It is critical that the lid or cover of the manhole access aperture be securely fastened in order to prevent someone from accidently falling into the tank below.

When the access lid is first installed, it must be secured; it is then the owner’s obligation to ensure that it stays secure on an ongoing basis.

In summary, if the lid over your septic tank can be lifted by a child, the chance of someone falling into the tank is high, as is the possibility of a swift and horrible death.

• Source:ALBERTA PRIVATE SEWAGE SYSTEMS STANDARDS OF PRACTICE, 2009 HANDBOOK, obtained on April 30, 2015, and updated on March 18, 2018, from the original source:Public/Documents/PSSSOP Handbook Version 12 Online Feb 21 2012b.pdf

Reader Question: how do I cap this wiring conduit at my septic tank cover?

2013/0318 NT inquired:Our dogs have pulled what looks to be a portion of our septic system that was obstructing electrical wires. What is the best location to look for a replacement? NT, a reader, sent this photograph.

Reply: proper conduit and exterior electrical boxes are required for outdoor septic pump wiring

NT: When I look at your photo (above), the white plastic “tube” appears to be a riser conduit for septic pump or alarm wire. I’m not sure if it’s a product specifically developed for that use or if it’s a homemade couduit produced from downspout material. I would start by contacting your septic installer or maintenance firm to find out what type of material they used. This may save you a lot of time digging around in your yard. In the meanwhile, make sure you cover the top of the conduit with a tarp or other temporary cover to keep rainfall out.

Keep an eye out: I have my doubts about whether or not the conduit utilized was appropriate and certified for electrical wiring.

The figure on the right illustrates what I am referring to: the use of specified components for subterranean and outdoor electrical wiring with a riser that is elevated above the ground.

An extract from a lecture on safe installation techniques given by the Chippewa County Health Department in Michigan was used to create this picture.

• In the book PUMP CONTROL SYSTEMS, FLOATS, PANELS AND INSTALLATION, by Matt Johnson, Chippewa County Health Department, 508 Ashmun Ave., Sault Ste. Marie, MI 49783, obtained on 20 March 2018, from the following URL: www.chippewahd.com/cms/lib/MI17000311/Centricity/Domain/105/Control % Matt Johnso is responsible for the installation of the panels and for the installation of the panels.

Reader Q A – also see the FAQs series linked-to below

Jonathan You will need to excavate just enough of the septic tank to be able to estimate the measurements of the tank cover, at the very least at the corners. Meanwhile, if the tank cover is destroyed, be sure to rope off the area and keep people away from the area since if someone falls into the tank, they would die quickly and horribly. I jumped over the concrete cover and fell to the ground. What is the best way to determine what size I require? Janet The replacement lid needs to be safe (falling into a tank is lethal), which means it needs to be robust and it needs to be secured to the tank’s top.

• Yes, it is technically conceivable.
• Do you have a pad for sale, or do you know where I may get a hold of one?
• One of the lid’s corners split and dropped into the tank, creating a hole in one of the corners.
• Perhaps there are sewer fly problems because the top of the tank is not properly sealed?
• 1.
• 2.
• The PVC vent cap to which you refer is suitable for use as a cleanout access cap, however it does not function as a ventilation cap.

A cap is something I’m seeking to put on – does it need to be vented or slotted?

Thanks!

We do not offer any products for sale.

Do you have a septic tank lid that is sagging?

We do not offer any products for sale.

Do you have a septic tank lid that is sagging?

Root-X will not repair or assist in the treatment of your septic system; for further information, visit SEPTIC TREATMENTS in theARTICLE INDEX.

If this is not done, the problems will recur and you’ll run the risk of both contamination of the local environment and septic failure that backs up into your home.

Please notify me and upload a snapshot of what you have discovered so that we may discuss it further.

It is usual for a septic tank to have some floating particles, such as the following: excrement and toilet paper, as well as lumps of grease, are OK; however, bits of wood or roots are not.

Throughout my system, I have four green circular covers.

I’m confident that it is an aerobic system.

My home is just around 14 years old, and I have heard that having four covers indicates that it is a newer variety.

I’d want to know what’s going on in each tank, what appears to be normal, and what might cause me to be concerned about the status of my tank.

They came out and cleaned up what they could before telling me that they would pump it all out if there were roots uncovered.

Approximately four weeks later, it began to burp once more.

Tank one had a large clump of roots floating about, which I removed; tank two appeared to be in fine condition.

I took out those portions of text.

The burping has subsided once more.

When they drained it out, I was wondering why there were so many chunks floating about.

I’m having trouble finding anything on Google.

1.

2.

3.

However, I suspect the time, trouble, and cost of doing so will be comparable to the cost of purchasing a new concrete cover from your local septic supplier.

In addition, I have another spherical concrete one that is located over the sewage pump tank.

I think what I’m asking (and what you probably won’t be able to truly provide me with) is a way to cover it now that the area has only been excavated down a foot or so, but rain and sand are going to seep into it.

Continue reading atSEPTIC TANK OPEN, HOW TO, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for a comprehensive list of articles.

Alternatively, visit the SEPTIC TANK COVER FAQs- a collection of questions and answers that were originally placed on this page. See these SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS for further information.

Key Septic Tank CoverOpening Articles

• ACCIDENT REPORTS FOR SEPTIC TANKS
• SEPTIC TANK COVERS
• SEPTIC TANK DEPTH
• SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS
• SEPTIC TANKS FLOATING UP
• SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND
• SEPTIC TANK OPEN, HOW TO
• PUMPING SCHEDULE FOR SEPTIC TANK
• SEPTIC TANK RISERS
• SEPTIC

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Tuf-Tite Lids – Septic Tank Lids (Various Sizes)

Tuff TiteLids are a brand of septic tank covers. Please keep in mind that this product does require screws to be used to join the pieces together. You’ll need to acquire stainless steel screws in order to mount them to the wall. You may purchase them at this link. It is necessary to use stainless steel screws since conventional screws will rust as a result of the moisture in your sewage system. Refer to the following list to ensure that you buy the appropriate number of screws. RisersLids = 3 Screws for a 12″ Riser 16″ RisersLids = 4 Screws on each side The number of screws needed for a 20″ RisersLid is 8.

1. If you are ordering many goods, put the screw amounts together to find the total cost.
2. (6X3=18) Tuf-Tite manufactures a complete array of Risers and accessories for use in Pre-Cast environments.
3. Riser Lids are available in two styles: rounded lids or flat lids with molded-in gasket.
4. Only the color green is allowed.
5. Make your own concrete lids with the help of the Safety Pan.
6. Fits a 16 inch waist “Riser Pans, 20″ x 24″ x 4” Only the color green is allowed.
7. Only the color green is allowed.
8. Stackable up to six high “a series of increases Available in diameters of 12, 16, 20, and 24 inches.
9. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 “Tall Riser- This is used for septic tanks.

Only the color green is allowed. Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)- Used to attach a riser or lid to a tank when casting-in is not an option due to a lack of available space. If you are installing a Tuf-Tite riser system, make sure to include all necessary components (which are not shown in the picture).

• Stainless Steel Screws- The Stainless Steel screws are not included with our risers. You will need to order them separately. In order to guarantee a watertight seal between your risers and the Tank Adapter Ring, you will need to place a ring of butyl rope in between them and underneath them. Tar Screw Kit- This kit is used to attach the Tank Adapter Ring to the top of your tank with tar screws.

Septic Tanks Risers- Bring Your Access To Ground Level

Getting a little tired of having to dig up your yard every time your septic tank has to be pumped out or serviced? Are you getting tired of dealing with incredibly hefty concrete lids? It appears that you are in need of septic tank risers in order to bring your access down to ground level! Our septic tank risers and covers are constructed of high-quality, heavy-duty polyethylene plastic, which makes them extremely sturdy and durable while also being lightweight and simple to handle.

THE POLYLOK ADVANTAGE

Septic tank risers are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the current market. We believe our Polylok septic tank risers are the best money can buy in terms of quality. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:

FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS

The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight! Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.

INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS

Once the hole has been backfilled, the structural ribs in the Polylok septic tank risers are inserted inside around each riser piece, providing them with tremendous strength and allowing them to maintain their shape under the pressure of the earth being pressed on them. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.

LIDS WITH HANDLES

The access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise maintained. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.

LARGE ADAPTER RING

An adapter ring is required in order to properly install septic tank risers on your septic tank. We have one of the largest adapter rings available on the market, allowing you to cover up to a 25″ square or 27″ circular aperture with a Polylok adapter ring. This ring fits both 20″ and 24″ risers, allowing you to have a great deal of versatility no matter what size your opening happens to be!

GET OUT YOUR MEASURING STICK!

A few measures must be taken before purchasing a septic tank riser system in order to ensure proper installation. The first thing to consider is the size of your opening. Take a measurement of the aperture in your septic tank at its widest point to determine the size of your tank. Instead than measuring the present lid, it’s critical to measure the opening. Because you will be removing the present cover, the measurements of the lid are no longer important and may differ from the size of the aperture itself.

The second measurement will be the distance between the top of the septic tank and the surface of the ground. You are now prepared to make a purchase based on these two measures!

THE COMPLETE RISER SYSTEM

We have a large selection of components from which you may pick to create your own own full riser system. Our many various options offer our product the adaptability to be utilized in virtually any application, but they may also be a bit daunting when attempting to pick which components to buy for a certain application. Each component is discussed in further depth below.

ADAPTER RINGS

The adapter ring is the first component that you’ll need to put together in order to assemble a full riser system. The adapter ring attaches directly to the septic tank, allowing the risers to stack, lock, and mount to it without the need for any additional hardware. Having this component is critical since the risers are not flat on the bottom because they are meant to be stackable, and it is not feasible to install them straight to the septic tank without this piece. The adapter ring provides the flat surface you need to mount to the tank while also being able to accommodate the stackable risers that are included with the tank.

Our square tank adapter ring can accommodate big square apertures up to 25 inches in diameter and large round openings up to 27 inches in diameter.

They are intended to be used with openings that are 24″ or less in diameter.

Concrete anchors, a masonry bit for installing the anchors, and butyl sealer are all included in this set.

RISERS

Following your selection of the adapter ring, it is time to go shopping for risers. The Polylok risers are available in two heights: 6″ and 12″, as well as in two diameters: 24″ and 20″. Stackable, each unit has a gasket that has been fitted as well as stainless steel screws to allow for easy installation. Determine which risers will work best for your application based on the height measurement you made between the septic tank and ground level.

OPTIONAL SAFETY SCREEN

In addition to the 20″ and 24″ riser systems, Polylok also produces safety screens that fit within the riser systems. These screens serve as a supplementary layer of protection in the event that the riser cover is unintentionally damaged or removed, and they keep foreign objects from entering the septic tank. They also keep dogs from slipping into unprotected septic tank openings!

RISER LIDS

You will require a lid to complete your riser system, which is the final component you will require. Both the 20″ and 24″ riser systems may be used with the Polylok lids, which are available in two different types to suit your needs. For ease of access, the basic lid is equipped with handles and a gasket that has been factory placed, as well as stainless steel screws to keep it in place. These lids are strong enough to withstand foot traffic as well as the weight of a riding lawn mower driving across them.

Stainless steel screws are included for installation.

Installations below grade or in regions with a high volume of foot traffic are advised for the heavy-duty lids.

The shipping of these items in large boxes necessitates the addition of additional time, materials, and UPS shipping fees.

SIMPLY ADD THE ITEMS TO YOUR SHOPPING CART AND THEN CHECK YOUR SHIPPING COST. If you place your order before 2 PM CST, you will be able to get your order sent the same day you placed it.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered!

WILL THE LID FIT DIRECTLY ON THE ADAPTER RING OR DO I NEED TO USE A RISER?

With the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will often fit straight onto the adapter rings in the majority of cases. The underside of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid is strengthened for added strength. The height of this reinforcement is actually more than the height of the adapter ring. Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter when the opening is at least 24″ in diameter. The lid will not fit through any aperture less than 24 inches in diameter.

CAN I CUT THE RISER SYSTEM DOWN TO A SPECIFIC HEIGHT?

No, the Polylok riser system is available in increments of 6″ and 12″, and it cannot be customized to a certain height. Cutting the riser will result in the lid not being adequately secured on the riser that has been cut down.

DO I BRING THE RISER SYSTEM JUST BELOW, AT, OR ABOVE GRADE?

It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade. Because the riser system is airtight and watertight, there is no danger in moving it up to or above grade level.

SHOULD I USE THE STANDARD OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?

The regular lid is sturdy enough to withstand foot activity and weights up to the weight of a small riding lawn mower passing over it without bending or breaking. If the riser system is located in a high traffic location or is going to be run over by lawn equipment on a frequent basis, the heavy duty lid is recommended. If you have any more queries, please contact us at 1-877-925-5132 or [email protected].

How to Locate Your Septic Tank Lid

Despite the fact that septic tanks are vast, they can be difficult to identify, especially if they have not been properly maintained over time. It is critical to be aware of the location of your septic tank lid and septic tank, whether or not you are aware of it. You must be aware of the location of your dishwasher, toilet, and sewage line in order to properly care for these appliances. Despite the fact that septic tanks are vast, they can be difficult to identify, especially if they have not been properly maintained over time.

Continue reading to find out how to locate your septic tank lid.

Why It’s Important to Know Where Your Septic Tank Lid Is

Locating the location of your septic tank is a good first step in diagnosing septic tank problems as soon as they occur. Consider the following scenario: If you notice water near your septic tank lid, you’ll know right away that there might be an issue with your system being overloaded with waste.

Aside from that, understanding the location of your septic tank allows you to prevent parking cars directly on top of it, which might cause the tank to collapse. You may also lead service experts to the appropriate location for septic tank services, saving them both time and money in the process.

How to Locate Your Septic Tank Opening

Knowing why it is so critical to know where your septic tank lid is located, you may begin the process of locating the lid. During your search, keep an eye out for a circular top that’s around two feet broad and roughly two feet in diameter. Septic tank lids are often constructed of green or black plastic, although they can also be built of concrete. It is not always simple to locate the septic tank lid, however, because grass, mud, and other debris might obscure the opening.

How to Locate Your Septic Tank as a New Homeowner

During the process of purchasing your house, you should have been provided with a schematic of your property that showed the location of your septic tank. Your home inspection will most likely include this service. Check the diagram against your home to see where your septic tank is located. You may need to dig around the tank to determine whether the lid has been hidden. Consider placing a large item, such as a boulder, on top of the septic lid to serve as a reminder of its location.

Septic Tank Maintenance

It is important to keep your septic tank lid in good condition in order to avoid damage and to make it easier to access for future cleaning and maintenance. Consider trimming the grass surrounding your tank lid on a regular basis, eliminating all dirt and trash, and marking the area so that you can easily identify where the tank lid is.

Get in Touch With B D Today!

Are you dealing with any plumbing issues that necessitate the intervention of a professional? Are you dealing with a plumbing problem that simply must be put off any longer? Inform B D Plumbing of the situation. Plumbing services are provided across the greater Washington, D.C. metropolitan region, including Maryland and Northern Virginia, by B D Plumbing Inc. Get in contact with us by dialing (301) 595-1141 or by following us on social media, which includes Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, and Pinterest (to name a few platforms).

This item was posted on Friday, April 17th, 2020 at and is filed under Uncategorized.

Safety Tips for Septic Tank Lids

The septic tank lid adds an extremely vital layer of security and safety to a septic system’s overall security and protection. It may also be used to prevent issues from arising in your septic system, in addition to serving as a safety measure. Septic tank lids promote safety by preventing children, animals, rains, and other material from entering the septic tank and clogging it. But, perhaps most critically, septic tank lids prevent gases and smells from escaping the septic tank system. Septic tanks contain potentially dangerous gases and germs that may be damaging to your health if not properly maintained.

How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid?

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference.

Typically, these feature a graphic indicating the placement of the tank on the property, as well as certain dimensions that allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank in question.

2. Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

3. Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard.

4. Visual Search

Pay attention for a circular cover that is roughly two feet in diameter. Septic tank lids are normally constructed of green or black plastic, however they can occasionally be made of concrete.

Here are a few general safety guidelines for septic tank lids.

• No vehicle should be driven over the septic system, especially not the lid of the system. The septic tank lid is not designed to withstand heavy usage. The lid should be visually inspected immediately if you mistakenly drive over it in order to see whether there is any damage. For the best possible protection of the septic tank lid, always use the nuts and screws suggested by the manufacturer. Never leave a sewage tank that is partially or completely open unattended. Whenever you are installing or doing normal maintenance on your septic system, it is critical not to leave the tank unattended in order to avoid children or animals from entering the tank. Children should be taught that septic tank lids are not to be played with. Use a secondary septic tank cover, such as the Infiltrator Safety Star System, to keep the tank clean. If the primary septic tank lid is accidentally broken or removed, the safety star system offers a powerful second level of protection. Cracks or apparent damage to the septic tank lid should be checked on a regular basis. If you think that your septic tank lid has been damaged, please contact West Michigan Septic Sewer & Drain at (231) 760-8805 or send us an online message.

Post navigation

Septic systems are a low-cost and frequently successful alternative to conventional sewer systems. Concrete tanks have been the most frequent since the 1940s, with 3 – 500lids for a 1000 gallon tank and 4 – 500lids for a 1500 gallon tank being the most typical. Tanks began to be equipped with 16″ square concrete plugs with a lifting bail in the late 1990s, allowing for easier access to both sides of the tank. Many tanks today are made of fiberglass or plastic. Over time, the concrete might degrade, and the lids may develop cracks or possibly shatter completely due to the pressure.

1. Even broken lids should be replaced for the sake of the public’s safety.
2. They get access to your septic tank by removing green covers that are 20 inches in diameter.
3. This is done in order to prevent anyone, especially children, from removing a lid and falling into the container.
4. A typical water level for a tank should be 6″ below the top of the tank, and the tank should be kept completely filled at all times.
5. The level of the water is often a good sign of potential problems.
6. Additionally, it might suggest a clogged intake line, which could be caused by roots, a damaged pipe, or a loose joint.
7. If there has been a lot of rain, the earth may get saturated, making it impossible for any additional water to seep through the soil to the surface.
8. If your tank has allowed particles to enter the field lines, this might cause the openings in the corrugated pipe to get clogged, preventing water from percolating through the soil as effectively as it should be.

An output filter may be placed to prevent particulates from entering the field lines, but it would need to be cleaned on an annual basis to ensure that this does not happen. Nonetheless, it is far less expensive than rebuilding field lines.

What you should expect when your septic tank needs pumping

The following are general recommendations: It is advised that you pump your septic tank every two to three years. The frequency with which you pump is determined by the volume of water you utilize. Generally speaking, the more individuals that use your septic system, the greater the increase in water flow. As a result, your septic tank will fill up more quickly, necessitating more regular pumping. It is likely that the septic tank will need to be pumped more frequently than every two to three years.

Choosing a certified pumper

We recommend that you identify your septic tank before contacting a pumping company. Here is a list of questions you should ask the pumper about their services that we recommend you ask:

1. What is the approximate cost of the pump-out
2. And Will additional gallons be charged if the septic tank has a capacity more than 1,000 gallons? Is it included in this price the expense of excavating to expose the septic tank lid(s)
3. If not, do you charge by the foot or by the meter? How much do you charge to dig you out if you don’t have one
4. Is there a charge for dumping costs included? Was it determined that this fee includes a visual check of the septic tank’s entrance and exit baffles? Do you charge an additional fee for cleaning the filter baffle? If a tank has not been properly maintained, is there an additional price for the additional water and time necessary to pump it out? (for example, pumped on a regular basis)
5. Please specify the distance and elevation to where the Pumper’s vehicle will be stationed if you have a long distance to pump or if you will be pumping up a steep hill (for example, in your driveway or in the yard). The Pumper will decide whether or not the vehicle is capable of providing this sort of service. Is pumping the pump tank a frequent component of your routine maintenance? What is the cost of providing this service? It is recommended that a pump tank be pumped in addition to the septic tank, cleaned with water, and then dried with a blow dryer. If the pump tank is extremely full, you may be subject to an additional price.

Locating the septic tank

Once you’ve decided on a Pumper, you’ll need to locate the septic tank on your property. Most Pumpers will charge you for the time it takes to locate the tank and open the septic tank lid (s). You can perform the necessary work to expose the septic tank lid(s) prior to the arrival of the Pumper. In order to make septic tank pumping and inspection trips easier and less time-consuming, the Ohio Department of Public Health advises that you install “risers.” With locking gas tight lids linked to both the tank and the riser and access raised to the surface, there is no digging required every time the septic tank needs to be pumped.

The majority of septic system pumpers will be able to do this service for you.

Both compartments must be examined and pumped in order to meet the requirements.

The location of your septic tank will be straightforward if you have an as-built (a map of your septic system) for your system.

The following talents will be required by you or your Pumper if an as-built is not available: investigation

• If there is a crawl space, you may be able to locate the tank by determining where the plumbing exits the foundation wall and then using a probing bar to locate it. If you have a fiberglass or polyethylene tank, a probe bar is not suggested unless extreme caution is exercised when using the probe bar. Probing will only be effective if the tank is not more than 1 to 2 feet below the surface of the ground
• If there is no crawl space available, you may occasionally discover the tank by looking for the plumbing vents in the roof. A person who is walking behind the home and coming from a restroom can find themselves at the exit point of the sewage line that connects to the septic tank

Using an electronic detecting equipment may be essential if none of the above mentioned approaches prove successful. Some rental services contain a transmitter that may be flushed down the toilet and is detected by a receiving unit, which can be found in some rental services. In certain cases, drainfield location is the specialty of septic system contractors. See a list of septic system installers who are certified. As long as the tank is exposed, sketch a map depicting the location of the septic tank lid(s) in relation to the home and make a copy of the map for your records.

Pumping the septic tank

Before the Pumper begins the process of pumping out the tank, you may request that he measure the thickness of the scum and sludge layer layers on the inside of the tank. Using this method, you can determine the pace at which the particles collect in the tank, which will assist you in determining when it is necessary to have the septic tank pumped again. Pumping frequency will be in the range of 2 to 3 years for the vast majority of families. It doesn’t matter how often you pump your septic system; frequent inspections will provide you peace of mind that everything is in working order inside those tanks.

Concerning the inspection of your septic system. The septic tank Pumper should present you with a receipt that details the services that were done to your tank. This receipt should contain the following information:

• The company’s name, address, and phone number
• Pumper’s certification number
• Number of gallons that were pumped in an approximate manner the number of compartments that have been pumped In good working order, the tank baffles In-tact condition of the septic tank
• Provide specifics on any work performed on baffles or access lids. This information should be included on the pump receipt if the scum and sludge layers were measured. Any work done on the septic tank or pump tank should be documented. Any additional service work that is completed