How To Test My Septic Tank? (Perfect answer)

The inspector may use a dye test during this part of their inspection. In a dye test, the inspector will introduce dye into the water that is being drained to see how much of it enters the septic tank. From there, the septic tank will get pumped and the inspector will check for any backflow from the absorption area.

How do you test a septic system?

  • How a Septic Dye Test is Performed. The septic dye test uses a fluorescent dye solution to visually identify a problem with the septic system. The dye is flushed down a toilet that is (presumably) connected to the septic system being tested. The amount of dye used is determined by the size of the septic tank.

How do you know if your septic tank is bad?

8 Signs of Septic System Failure

  1. Septic System Backup.
  2. Slow Drains.
  3. Gurgling Sounds.
  4. Pool of Water or Dampness Near Drainfield.
  5. Nasty Odors.
  6. Unusual, Bright Green Grass Above Drainfield.
  7. Blooms of Algae in Nearby Water.
  8. High Levels of Coliform in Water Well.

How do you know if your septic tank needs to be replaced?

5 Signs it’s Time to Replace Your Septic System

  1. Age of the System. It’s pretty common for a septic system to last 40 years or longer, which means if you buy a new home, you might never need to replace it.
  2. You’ve Outgrown the System.
  3. Slow Drains.
  4. Standing Water in the Yard.
  5. Nearby Contaminated Water Sources.

Is my septic tank full or clogged?

If the septic tank is completely clogged, water will back up into the house quickly. If the septic tank is only partially clogged, the drains will become slow as the water struggles to wind its way down into the septic tank.

What will ruin a septic system?

Any paper products like tissues, paper towels, tampons, or sanitary products, even some heavier toilet paper, will clog your system if you flush enough of it. Wet wipes are another product that you should never flush into a septic system.

How long can a septic tank go without being pumped?

You can wait up to 10 years to drain your tank provided that you live alone and do not use the septic system often. You may feel like you can pump your septic tank waste less frequently to save money, but it’ll be difficult for you to know if the tank is working properly.

What is the most common cause of septic system failure?

Most septic systems fail because of inappropriate design or poor maintenance. Some soil-based systems (those with a drain field) are installed at sites with inadequate or inappropriate soils, excessive slopes, or high ground water tables.

How do I clean my septic tank naturally?

You can mix about a 1/4 cup of baking soda with 1/2 cup of vinegar and 2 tablespoons lemon to make your own natural cleaning agent. The baking soda will fizz up to help get the dirt and grime in your tub and drains. It’s a great cleaner and your septic system will thank you!

How do you unclog a septic tank?

Dump a couple of teaspoons of baking soda into your clogged drain, followed by one half cup of vinegar. This will create a fizzing action that may cause a fizz-like eruption. This is normal. This fizzing action may help to break the clog up and get things moving in your drain once again.

Will toilet flush if septic tank is full?

Toilets Flush Slowly When your septic tank is excessively full, your toilet may start acting odd. You might find that your toilet doesn’t fully flush or flushes very slowly and odd noises occur when you flush your toilet. These noises usually sound like gurgling or bubbling.

Is Dawn dish soap safe for septic systems?

One of the best know is commercials for Dawn dish soap. The ability for the cleaner to disperse oil and grease is better for cleaning, as it helps to break it up. The reason these are bad for septic systems is because if you use too much they can leach out into the environment without being properly treated.

Can you pour milk down the drain if you have a septic tank?

If not the trash. A man who has a septic tank service told us to buy a gallon of whole milk and let it go bad a few days and flush it into the septic tank to feed the bacteria. He said to do this about once a month.

Are Clorox toilet tablets septic safe?

Toilet bowl cleaners and bleach/chlorine based cleaners should be avoided or minimized. Look for chlorine bleach or chemical sodium hypochlorite on product labels. Using these products could result in your septic tank backing up, creating costly repairs, contaminating your drinking water, odors and much more.

How to Test a Septic System

Home-Maintenance Septic system testing is necessary whether you are a professional home inspector or an individual homeowner in order to determine the overall health of your septic system and whether you have a system breakdown. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.remove ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) is a fallback logo image.

A septic-system dye test kit is available at most home improvement and plumbing stores.

Inspect the Interior Plumbing and Visible Septic Components

  1. Make a note of the flow of draining water in all of the sinks, bathtubs, washing machines, and dishwashers by running the water through them all. The presence of slow-draining water may suggest a clogged septic tank. To check for sewage backup or delayed emptying of the toilet bowl (which might also signal a full tank or clogged lines), flush all of the toilets at the same time. If the basement or crawl area of the house is accessible, take a look around there. Find any leaking sewage or wastewater from sewage backups and clean it up. Identify the location in the yard where the septic tank and drain field are located and mark them on the map. Observe the surrounding environment for indications that there may be an obstruction in the drainage system or an overflowing septic tank. These signals include sewage odors, damp places in the soil, notably greener grass over the drain field, and black sewage seepage on the yard area. Inspect any storm-water drainage pipelines that may be present on your property, particularly those that are close to the drain field. Investigate these drainage lines for any evidence of wastewater or sewage seepage

Perform a Dye Test

  1. Prepare an estimate of the amount of water you’ll need to run after pouring the dye at a rate ranging between 3 and 5 gallons per minute (GPM). Add 50 gallons for every whirlpool tub or spa in the home and multiply the total number of bedrooms in the house by 75 gallons to find the total amount of water required. When testing a three-bedroom house with one hot tub, the amount of water required would be around 75 gallon per bedroom multiplied by three bedrooms + 50 gallon equals approximately 275 gallon of water. Fill a sink, bathtub, or toilet with the dye and let it sit for a few minutes. Running water should be started soon after pouring the color. Turn on one or more taps at a time to get the required flow rate of between 3 and 5 gallons per minute (GPM). Continue to run the water until you have achieved the required amount of water for the test. As an example, if you require 275 gallons of water at a flow rate of 5 GPM, you should run the water from the faucets for approximately 55 minutes (275 gallons divided by 5 GPM equals 55 minutes). Inspect the drain field area in the yard for any visible traces of the dye, as well as any nearby ditches or storm-water drainage pipes. Check for colored wastewater in the basement or crawl area, if they are accessible. At order to check for sewage backup or colored wastewater backup, flush the toilet in the lowest portion of the home or nearest to the main septic line, whichever is lower.

Tip

Use a flow meter device or time how long it takes to fill a 1-gallon milk jug with water from a single faucet to calculate the rate of flow from a single faucet.

Warning

  1. If you have numerous houses or structures with pipes flowing to the same septic system, make sure to include all of these properties in your septic system examination as well. Utilize various colored dyes for the various residences or buildings to identify any possible problems with the plumbing that connects the structure to the septic tank. It’s important to remember that a dye test alone will not always identify a septic system malfunction. In addition to the dye test, a comprehensive inspection should be carried out to identify any potential septic concerns.

Inspecting Your Septic Tank

If you have many houses or structures connected to the same septic system, make sure to include all of these properties in your inspection. Utilize various color dyes for the various dwellings or buildings to identify any possible problems with the pipe that connects the structure to the septic tank, if any. It’s important to remember that a dye test alone will not always indicate a septic system problem. To identify potential septic issues, in addition to the dye test, do a comprehensive inspection.

What You Need to Do the Stick Test

  • One 90-degree elbow*
  • Two SxMPT threaded adapters*
  • One coupler*
  • Two feet of white rag or old gym sock
  • String or duct tape
  • A pencil or waterproof marker
  • A disinfecting solution made of 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water in a bucket
  • A plastic bag for storing the towel, rag/sock, and gloves*. All PVC materials are 1/2-inch Schedule 40 PVC plastic
  • No other PVC materials are used.

The slime stick to the right measures 6 feet in length and has a 6-inch leg. The sludge stick is made up of two 5-foot portions that have been fastened together. Scum and sludge sticks can be any length up to 10 feet in length. (NOTE: To learn how to make the scum and sludge sticks, check Step 2 – Measuring the Scum Level andStep 3 – Measuring the Sludge Level in the following sections: Continue to Step 1 – Locate the Tanks. Additionally, see: Step 2 – Determining the Scum Concentration Step 3 – Determining the Sludge Concentration Check the baffles in step four.

Septic System Inspections

Nick Gromicko, CMI®, and Kenton Shepard wrote this article. A septic system is a system that collects, processes, and disposes of waste water and solids that are generated by a building’s plumbing system. When the solids are partially broken down into sludge, they are separated from the liquid effluent (water) and scum in a septic tank (fat, oil and grease). Effluent is discharged from the tank on a regular basis into a drainfield, where it is naturally filtered by microorganisms and re-enters the groundwater supply.

The septic system should be tested at least once a year, and it should be done immediately before putting the house on the market for sale.

Prospective home buyers who have not recently had their septic system checked should insist on having the system checked before they acquire the property, since it is in their best interests.

When it comes time to examine or pump the tank, this is typically not a problem. If a homeowner does not know where his or her septic tank is, inspectors can utilize the following tips to help them identify it:

  • The placement of the tank should be depicted on a “as-built” design of the home. These designs are frequently kept on file by municipal health and zoning departments. It is possible that older systems do not have such a record. It is possible to get in touch with the prior owner
  • Modern tanks are equipped with risers that protrude clearly above the ground surface. It is possible to probe a suspicious location using a thin metal rod that has been placed into the soil. It is critical to do this carefully and only on soft, damp soil in order to prevent harming the tank and its accompanying pipelines. Another option is to use a shovel, although this will need a little more effort. If a sufficient number of tank components are made of metal, a metal detector can be utilized. A tiny radio transmitter that can be flushed down the toilet and followed by a receiver can be used to communicate. The grass that grows the most lushly in a yard is frequently seen just over the sewage tank. Snow melts more quickly above the tank than it does in the rest of the yard. While they are not failsafe techniques of finding a place, they have been shown to be beneficial in the past.
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What kinds of things may InterNACHI inspectors be looking for?

  • Find out when the tank was last pumped by looking at the date on the tank. The sludge level should ultimately indicate if a tank has to be pumped, although having a record of past pumping dates might be useful as a reference. Using a “sludge judge” or a similar instrument, determine the amount of sludge present. It is normal for sludge to collect on the tank bottom, but it should not take up more than one-third of the tank’s total capacity or climb to the level of the baffles. The septic tank and drainfield should be located far away from wells and streams, for obvious reasons. Make certain that the system is large enough to accommodate the household it serves. A 1,200-gallon tank is normally required for a four-bedroom house, for example. The number of people that live in the house determines the size of the tank that is necessary. The tank’s capacity in gallons may be computed based on the size of the tank. For rectangular tanks, the capacity in gallons is equal to the product of the length, breadth, and depth in feet multiplied by 7.5. For circular tanks, the capacity in gallons is calculated as 3.14 times the radius squared x the depth in feet multiplied by 7.5. Check the ground surface for any liquid waste that has found its way to the surface. This is an unclean state that signals that the system is overburdened and needs to be repaired. In order to prevent wastewater contamination of groundwater and groundwater from flowing into the tank and causing it to overfill, make certain that it is waterproof. The presence of a riser lid should be checked for cracks and the integrity of the lid should be checked as well. Check to see that the baffles are securely attached to the tank’s inlet and exit pipes. It is recommended that each drain line receives the same quantity of wastewater. By opening the distribution box, you will be able to see what they are made of. If the box becomes tipped or blocked, it will distribute effluent in an excessively large amount, and it may even flood areas of the drainfield.

In a septic tank, baffles are components that restrict wastewater entry to a sufficient degree to guarantee that particles are distilled and that solids (as well as scum) are not discharged into the drainfield. It is via this process that they are able to protect the soil’s absorptive quality and hence extend the life of the entire system. They are often constructed of the same materials as the septic tank, which might be fiberglass, steel, or concrete in construction. Inspectors should look for the following things in baffles:

  • The baffle is covered in solids. This should be reported as soon as possible because it implies overflow. There is evidence of prior overflow due to chemical and water erosion. Ideally, the sewage level should be several inches below the baffle top of the drain. A lower level implies leakage, whereas a greater level indicates obstruction.

Inspectors should be familiar with the following facts so that they may advise their clients about the various ways in which they might cause harm to their septic system:

  • The only thing that can be flushed down the toilet is bath tissue. Tampons, paper towels, cigarette butts, and diapers should all be disposed of in the garbage. In order to prevent microorganisms in the septic system from being damaged by household chemicals such as gasoline, paint, medicine, antifreeze, or pesticides from being flushed, they should never be put down the toilet or down the sink. In little volumes, detergents and bleach can make their way into the plumbing system. There should be no driving on or near the drainfield unless absolutely necessary. Their weight might cause damage to subsurface plumbing without them realizing it. There should be no other vegetation grown over the septic tank and drainfield. Roots from trees and huge bushes can create harm that is not visible. People are not permitted to excavate or construct structures on top of a drainfield. Ensure that any water drainage from rains, sump pumps, or any other source of surface water is routed away from the drainfield. An over-saturated drainfield can cause the water treatment process to be slowed down and plumbing fittings to get clogged. Fixing leaking faucets and toilets as soon as they occur is a simple method to extend the life of a septic system and avoid having to pay for an expensive replacement. Any waste of water in the home should be avoided at all costs. Taking shorter showers and avoiding using the garbage disposal are two examples of strategies to conserve water.
  • It is not recommended that inspectors enter the septic tank to search for cracks. Tank interiors are extremely filthy, and entering should be avoided at all costs. The fracture will most likely be located at the level of the effluent, which will have drained from the tank via the crack if one is there. An effluent level that is much lower than the level of the tank outflow is a clear indicator of the presence of a fracture. A tank that has flaws that enable sewage to escape into the surrounding soil is effectively a cesspool and should be removed as soon as possible
  • If the water comes from the tank, it indicates that the septic system is overburdened and has to be repaired. Sometimes, inspectors will use a dye that is flushed down the toilet to confirm that the water is coming from the residence and not from somewhere else. Despite the fact that this metric might be beneficial, it is not an accepted means of testing the operation of a septic system. A malfunctioning septic system will be confirmed if dye from the flushed dye shows in the puddle
  • However, a working septic system is not guaranteed if dye does not appear. It may take many days for the dye to develop, and it may be too diluted to see properly
  • It is outside the scope of a standard house inspection to evaluate a septic system, and this needs specialized skills. Laws differ from one jurisdiction to the next, and inspectors should be well-versed in them before providing this job. They should disclaim all responsibility for any component of the septic system examination that they did not do

Septic systems are meant to manage hazardous waste, and they may pose major health risks to both residents and inspectors if they are not properly maintained. Precautions include the following, in no particular order:

  • Solid waste should be removed from septic tanks by a professional septic tank pumping service, not by an inspector. No one else should be allowed to enter a tank unless they are a licensed and properly equipped professional. Noxious gasses such as methane can induce asphyxiation and death in a matter of minutes. When a septic tank begins to exhibit indications of fragility, proceed with extreme caution! Collapse has the potential to be deadly. Keep an eye out for tanks with rusted metal, improvised lids, or anything else that seems to be in unsafe condition.

In conclusion, septic system inspections should be conducted on a yearly basis to verify that the system is operating properly. The septic tank is the most expensive household fixture, and it will have a much shorter lifespan if it is not properly cared for and maintained.

Buying a House? Make Sure You Get a Septic System Inspection!

If you are in the process of purchasing a home, you are aware that there are several phases involved in the process. You put money together for a down payment, go to open houses, chat to sellers and real estate agents, and ultimately discover a place you love to call home. The exciting part is about to begin. There are several steps involved: making an offer, getting pre-approval, scheduling a home inspection, and eventually, after heaps of paperwork, claiming ownership of the property. But hold on a minute!

  1. You might be asking why you would need to get your septic system inspected.
  2. Septic systems that are in poor working order can cost hundreds of thousands of dollars to repair or replace.
  3. When a roof leak occurs or a break in the foundation occurs, you would want to be aware of the situation.
  4. “All OK, but I’ve already completed a house inspection and a dye test.” “Doesn’t that suffice?” While these inspections may be sufficient to meet the criteria of a lender, they are insufficient to provide a full evaluation of a septic system.

A septic system examination performed by a Pennsylvania Septage Management Association-certified inspector is the only method to determine the exact status of a septic system.

What is a septic system inspection?

Performing a septic system inspection entails a thorough examination of all of the components of a septic system. The inspector will determine the location and condition of the septic tank, distribution box, and absorption area and make recommendations. In this process, he will uncover and evaluate all of the mechanical and electrical components of the system, including septic lines, baffles and filters, pumps and floats, alarms, and so on. During the inspection, he will open the septic tank (digging up the lids, if required) in order to check the wastewater sources from the home to the septic tank and physically inspect the septic tank at its operational level, according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

If the home has been vacant for an extended period of time or if the number of people living in the home is expected to increase, the inspector will conduct a hydraulic load test to determine whether the septic system’s absorption area is capable of handling the anticipated daily wastewater volume of the home buyer’s family.

  • For septic systems in Pennsylvania, this implies that the inspector must have received training and certification from the Pennsylvania Septage Management Association (PSMA), which has created a set of requirements for an objective septic system assessment.
  • Each PSMA septic system inspection finishes with the delivery of a thorough report.
  • However, while this analysis does not provide a guarantee, the findings drawn from it may be able to save you thousands of dollars in septic system repairs or replacement.
  • If you do not have a PSMA inspection and report, you run the danger of inheriting the financial burden of substantial septic system repairs or perhaps the installation of a whole new system completely.
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Septic System Inspection vs. Home Inspection

Inspections of the inside and exterior of a home are performed by professionals who are well-versed in the identification of typical faults. They will inform you if there are any evident issues with the roof, windows, electrical system, interior plumbing, foundation, or any other visible components of the house. A house inspection, on the other hand, is just a visual assessment that is non-invasive. Consequently, house inspectors only report on the components of the home that they can physically see, and nothing else.

  1. This implies that the septic system is not included in the scope of a standard house inspection.
  2. There is a good chance that they may flush the toilets a few times to ensure that the system is not actively backing up, and they may even remove the cover from the septic tank (if they can find it).
  3. How can a home inspector tell you what condition your septic tank is in if there isn’t a pump truck available to empty it?
  4. Despite the fact that home inspectors are well-versed in many aspects of the property, they are neither equipped nor prepared to conduct a thorough examination of a septic system.

Therefore, a house inspection is insufficient for determining the condition of a septic system. Rely on a PSMA inspector that specializes in septic systems to provide you with the most thorough and insightful septic system inspection available.

Septic System Inspection vs. Dye Test

Dyes are used in a dye test to check that wastewater is appropriately routed into the septic tank and not elsewhere on the land. Dyes are brightly colored and non-toxic, and they are safe to use. In layman’s terms, a dye test demonstrates that water can travel from point A to point B. At the time of a dye test, a technician will flush dye tablets down the toilet and down the drain, check to verify that the right wastewater sources are entering the septic tank, and walk about the property looking for dye.

  1. In the absence of a dye test, it is impossible to determine the size or condition of a septic tank.
  2. Dye tests provide little information on the operation of critical septic system components such as baffles, pumps, floats, and alarms, among others.
  3. When purchasing a property, don’t take a chance on a future filled with septic system failures and expensive repairs.
  4. to conduct the work for you.

How to Test Your Septic Drain Field

It is possible that this content contains affiliate links. It is possible that I will receive a commission if you make a purchase after clicking on an affiliate link. In addition, as an Amazon Associate, I receive a commission from qualifying purchases.- Septic tanks and septic systems are rather popular in rural regions of North America, particularly in the United States. It is common to find sewer systems lacking in many small towns and communities. When you don’t have access to a sewage system, it’s going to be required to install some sort of septic tank to handle your waste.

Overall, having a septic tank is a handy and manageable option that requires little effort.

Something may appear to be wrong with your septic tank from time to time.

Continue reading to find out how to test a septic drain field for bacteria. You’ll also learn the fundamentals of inspecting your septic tank to discover if anything is wrong with it.

How to Visually Inspect Your Septic Tank

When it comes to septic tank maintenance, the first thing you’ll want to understand is how to physically examine your tank. Before you open the tank, you might be able to pick out specific features that are there. If you don’t have to go to the trouble of exposing the tank, you’ll save yourself some valuable time. Any odors that emanate from the vicinity of the septic tank are indicative of the presence of a problem. If you are in the vicinity of the septic tank, you shouldn’t be able to smell anything.

It is necessary to contact specialists if you are suffering sewage problems in your home.

When none of these things are occurring, it will be essential to remove the tank from its hiding place and examine it more closely.

Protect your eyes and body with goggles and protective clothing that covers your complete body.

Uncovering and Checking the Tank

You’ll need to uncover the tank so that you can get a better look at what’s going on. Identifying the precise position of the septic tank may take some time if it is not marked, but it would be a good idea to label it to make things easier in the future when you need to find it again. The waste inflow port is located on the tank’s lid, which you may access by lifting it. What is known as the “scum layer” will be found beneath this port, which is accessible by a hatch in the port itself. This is the substance that floats on the water’s surface.

If the water level is rising above the level of the bottom of the pipe, this indicates that a blockage has occurred.

It’s also conceivable that something else is wrong with the computer.

In any case, septic professionals are required to get to the root of the problem.

How to Measure Sludge and Scum Layers

In addition, it would be beneficial to have more detailed instructions on how to quantify the sludge and scum layers. The creation of tools is required in order to achieve this goal. Fortunately, none of these recipes will be difficult to prepare. All you need is a half-inch PVC pipe that can be trimmed to the appropriate length. You’ll need a six-foot-long PVC pipe with a 90-degree elbow to complete this project. After that, you’ll need to insert a six-inch pipe into the elbow to give it a good “L.” Next, you’ll need a ten-foot-long pipe with three feet of masking tape taped to one end, and a pair of scissors.

  • Remove the top layer of scum with your scum tester and lower it until it hits the top of the scum layer.
  • Continue to lower the pipe all the way down until you begin to encounter resistance.
  • This indicates that the tank needs to be pumped when the space between the two marks you made is larger than six inches.
  • The process of determining the thickness of the sludge layer will be straightforward as well.
  • When three minutes have elapsed, it will be necessary to remove the pipe from the ground.

Make a tarp out of newspaper and place the sludge tester on it to dry. Using the masking tape, you may determine the length of the sludge stain that has formed on it. When the mark on the tank is longer than six inches, it indicates that it is time to pump out the tank.

How to Check the Drain Field

All you have to do is take a walk across the drain field to get a sense of what’s happening. Pay attention to any regions where you can detect the stench of sewage, as well as any areas where the ground is soft. These are all indications that you have a septic tank leak of some form on your hands. Whenever a leak is detected, it is essential to notify the appropriate authorities as soon as possible. septic tank business as soon as possible You should be aware that pipes will be coming up from the earth in the near future.

Remove the caps from the pipes and have a look at the insides.

Seeing water in these pipes indicates that your drainage system isn’t operating at peak efficiency.

If any of these things go wrong, it will be a clear indication that you need to contact your local septic company for assistance.

Final Thoughts

This information should enable you to inspect the drain field and determine whether or not your septic tank requires repair. Generally speaking, determining whether it is necessary to seek assistance is not difficult. If you’re experiencing other difficulties, you don’t even have to check the drain field. It is a solid indicator that something is not operating properly in your house if you are having sewage backup. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to call the septic business in your region.

  1. Waiting too long to handle septic system problems can only make the situation worse.
  2. If the tank has to be fixed, you’ll be able to work with the professionals to have everything taken care of.
  3. In some cases, the issues are minor and not very difficult to resolve.
  4. In any case, you’ll be able to get your tank back up and running properly again.

Understand the Septic Inspection Process

There are some differences in maintenance, usage, and budgeting that you should be aware of, whether you’re a new homeowner with an existing septic system or thinking about purchasing or building a home without sewer hookups. This document outlines three ways in which your budget will be affected if your wastewater is treated using a septic system. 1. You will not be required to budget for municipal sewer service. Because the municipal wastewater system typically processes all of the water, the cost of city sewer service is frequently determined by how much water you purchase from the city.

  • A large number of homes with septic systems also rely on wells for fresh water rather than city water, which means you’ll likely save money in that department as well.
  • It is necessary to include septic maintenance in your budget.
  • Although you are not required to pay the city for the use of your septic system, you will be responsible for the costs of maintenance if you want the system to continue to function properly.
  • It is possible that these maintenance and repair costs will add up over time, so you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund to cover any unexpected repair costs.
  • You’ll also need to budget for the cost of a single inspection and begin saving for the cost of a tank pump.
  • Spreading the costs out over several months is the most effective budgeting strategy, even for an expense such as tank pumping that does not occur every year, because it allows you to better anticipate the costs ahead of time.
  • You may need to set aside money for septic tank replacement.

The tank and leach field may not need to be replaced if you have a relatively new septic system and plan to sell your home within a few years.

If, on the other hand, your home’s septic system is more than a decade old, you’ll want to start looking into how much a replacement system will cost you as soon as possible.

For example, if the previous owners didn’t keep up with maintenance or if the system was installed in clay soil.

Starting to save up for this possibility is a wise move.

Use these three ways to budget differently when you own a septic system.

If you’re looking for someone to pump your home’s septic tank or perform an annual septic inspection, then give us a calltoday. Our team at C.E. Taylor and Son Inc. will be glad to help you assess, maintain, or repair any septic system.

How to Check a Septic Tank and Leach Field

Septic sludge can build up in a leach field that has not been properly managed. Images from EyeEm/EyeEm/Getty Images courtesy of George Mdivanian. In every residence that does not have access to a public sewer system, an aseptic system must be installed, and the homeowner is responsible for keeping it in good working order. Despite the fact that most septic repairs are dangerous and should only be performed by professionals, homeowners can recognize problems and know when it is time to call in the specialists.

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However, others that can lead to more serious problems require a more thorough examination.

Visual Inspection of Septic Tank

Prepare yourself by donning goggles, protective clothes, gloves, and steel-toed boots before uncovering the tank, which you may have to look for due to its location beneath the ground. Make sure your assistant is also well attired before beginning. In tanks with more than one chamber, there are two lids, and you should remove both of them to conduct a comprehensive inspection. However, you can detect the majority of issues by removing only one of the lids. Depending on the size of the tank, you’ll either notice the waste input port, which is a 3- or 4-inch pipe located on the side or the outlet port, which is also constructed of the same size pipe.

If it’s higher than that, there’s either an obstruction in the drain line that’s keeping water from draining out or, if your system uses a lift pump, the pump isn’t operating properly and has to be replaced.

In any situation, it is necessary to contact a septic professional.

Measuring Scum and Sludge Layers

In order to inspect the septic tank, you’ll need two instruments, both of which may be constructed from 1/2-inch PVC tubing. Each pipe measures 6 feet in length with a 90-degree elbow on one end and a 6-inch length of pipe inserted into the elbow to form a “L” shape pipe, and the second is a 10-foot length of straight pipe with a 3-foot length of white Velcroortan masking tapeestuck to one end, as shown in the illustration. First, take measurements of the scum layer that is floating on top of your tank’s surface, and then take another measurement of the sludge layer in the bottom of your tank’s bottom.

  • Make a mark on the pipe after you have lowered it all the way through the scum layer and pulled it up until you feel resistance.
  • To determine the thickness of the sludge layer, drop the sludge tester into the tank until it comes into contact with the bottom of the container.
  • Use the Velcro or tape to measure the length of the sludge stain on the Velcro or tape.
  • Take a walk through the drain field and make a note of any areas where sewage scents may be detected or where the ground feels spongy.
  • Several pipes should be protruding vertically out of the ground; these are risers, which were placed so that you could inspect the drainage system.

Remove the cap from each pipe and examine the interior with a torchlight. If you see any standing water, this indicates that the drainage system is not functioning properly and must be rectified.

All About the Percolation Test Required for a New Septic Tank

Septic systems enable you to construct a house or business on even the most distant of lands that are not already served by a sewer system. A septic tank’s suitability for a particular property, on the other hand, requires more than simply the owner’s willingness to spend the money to install one. Prior to granting approval for a permit for the installation of the system, your county will need that you do a percolation test, which is also known as a perc test. Learn everything you can about this test before it is conducted so that you are well prepared for the procedure.

  • A percolation test determines how well the earth drains in a specific area of a building’s foundation.
  • It may be necessary to conduct a number of percolation tests before determining the best site for a septic tank.
  • What is the procedure for testing percolation?
  • It is necessary to dig a hole of specific depth and fill it with water before measuring how long it takes for the water to completely drain into the surrounding soil in each test.
  • The soil’s water absorption rate will not be reliably measured if the holes are too small.
  • Contractors often dig at least two pits at opposing ends of the intended drainage system to ensure that the entire region drains at an appropriate rate during the project.
  • The majority of percolation tests are performed prior to the construction of a new septic tank.

In certain situations, relocating a system necessitates the performance of a percolation test as well, as the new location may have different soil drainage characteristics.

If you want to save money and learn more about your property’s drainage system before paying for any expert maintenance, you may dig your own percolation test pit.

If you decide to dig your own pit, make sure to slope all of the sides to both prevent the surrounding earth from collapsing and to allow you to escape if you do fall into the pit.

It is safer to slope all four sides of the task while doing it by hand with a shovel rather than using a machine.

If you fail a percolation test, you will be unable to construct a typical septic tank in the region where the test was conducted.

We at Walters Environmental Services invite you to schedule a professional percolation test with us now to determine whether your site is suitable for the installation of a septic system.

What is a Septic Tank Inspection? Do I Need It?

Everyone has undoubtedly heard the expression “it’s a filthy job, but someone has to do it.” After all, failure to periodically examine and repair your septic tank may result in a slew of unpleasant tasks to complete – and that’s not at all nice! Now, let’s take a look at what aseptic system inspection comprises and why it’s necessary.

The reasons for needing a septic tank inspection

You’ll almost always need to get your home’s septic system checked if you’re attempting to sell it. The same is true if you’re looking to purchase a home that has a septic system. When acquiring or selling a home, an aseptic inspection is a standard practice, and it is an unwritten law that the buyer must pay an inspector to do the inspection on their behalf. Pests will be checked for, and the septic system of the house will be inspected as part of this examination. Due to the fact that this is one of the most crucial components of your new home, you really require it.

  1. These inspections are neither expensive nor time-consuming, and as a result, they should be conducted on a regular basis.
  2. It’s possible that it will be too late by then.
  3. It filters the water and then distributes it, with the primary purpose of reducing soil and water pollution in the surrounding environment.
  4. It is vital to inspect and pump your tank on a regular basis to ensure that it is in good functioning condition as well as healthy.
  5. Furthermore, there is little question that this will be a wise investment in the long term.

The types of septic inspections

Septic inspections may be divided into two categories:

  • Visual inspections– These are normally performed by a home inspector when a house is being sold or purchased, and they include asking questions about the property and the house, such as when the previous inspection was performed, and so on. By running water and flushing all of the toilets in the property, the inspector may determine whether or not the water pressure in the house has been compromised. Cesspools, standing water, and the drain field will all be checked by the inspector as part of his inspection. This form of examination is quick and convenient, but it cannot tell you much about the condition of your septic tank, including whether it is healthy and safe. Full inspection is nearly identical to visual inspection, with the exception that it involves a considerably more extensive inspection. This is carried out by professionals and highly trained specialists who are equipped with the necessary equipment and tools for the job. The time period during which inspectors examine the water level in your septic tank to assess whether or not the water is draining properly. Additionally, they will do a few of checks to ensure that everything is in working condition before they proceed with the pumping.

The importance for frequent septic tank inspections cannot be overstated, as these checks not only save you money, but they also help to keep you and your family, as well as your property, healthy and safe. Get in touch with us right now for additional information or to schedule your next septic inspection.

How to Check Your Septic Panel and Pump Chamber

It is recommended that you inspect your pump chamber once a year to ensure that everything is in proper working order. Follow the 11-step procedure outlined below to complete this task on your own! (Do you require further assistance? Alternatively, you may watch our instructional video below.)

‍ 1. Let’s start by inspecting the panel. Make sure the power is on by verifying the power switch to the panel is on.

The following items should be included in this general overview: The electrical box may be seen in the lower left corner of the image below, starting at the bottom of the image.

Check to verify that all of the cables are firmly connected before using it. Next, take a look at the lower right corner of the shot, where you can see the discharge pipe for the pump. Check to see if it is operational (valve should be lined up with pipe). It’s now time to have some fun!

‍ FIRST.PUT ON GLOVES!That is one step you DO NOT want to miss. Remove the float tree (the pipe with a pvc handle located upright left in our picture) and pull up the alarms.

*Please keep in mind that these instructions are for a 4-float system. Some systems contain only two or three floats.

If you don’t hear an alarm, this is cause for concern. Starting at the top, I will explain the floats and how to ensure each one is working.

NOTE: If your water supply is depleted, you may need to replenish it. Fill it up a little with water from a yard hose.

7. Continue testing.

Check that the pump is operating properly by flipping the second float from the bottom upside down and then turning it back around. With your other hand, turn the next float up (which would be the second from the top) upside down while still holding the first float. You should be able to hear the pump start up. As soon as you have confirmed that the pump is operational, just release these two floats. There’s one more float to go. The top float serves as an alert in case of high water. Turn it over down to see whether this is the case.

8. Now is the time to inspect the power cords.

Check to see that everything is securely tied to the float tree and not just hanging free. Zip ties can be used to reattach any stray cables.

9. Securely return the float tree to its holder and coil any dangling cords so that they are out of the water.

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