- First, keep the rod well lubricated. When you dump a tank and the handle is pulled to the open position, simply shoot the stainless rod with a good shot of lubricant spray containing silicon or Teflon. Now “work” the valve open and closed a few times.
How do you open a broken camper gate valve?
Use the saw to cut through the valve body at about the midsection. Place bucket or pan under the valve. Use needle-nose pliers to reach inside the valve body and grasp the valve gate. Pull the gate out enough to allow the tank to drain through the hose but not out of the valve housing.
How do you open a stuck RV tank valve?
How to Unstick Your Stuck RV Black Tank Valve. One way to unstick your RV black tank valve is to put Dawn dish soap and water in your black tank and then drive around. The sloshing around of the liquid will not only clean the inside of your tank, but it can get down into the valve and loosen whatever residue is there.
What are gate valves made of?
Gate valves are typically constructed from cast iron, cast carbon steel, ductile iron, gunmetal, stainless steel, alloy steels, and forged steels. All-metal gate valves are used in ultra-high vacuum chambers to isolate regions of the chamber.
What do you do if your RV black water tank won’t drain?
Begin by boiling several pots of water. Pour the water down the toilet and let it sit overnight. Attempt to dump the tank in the morning. Sometimes the super hot water is enough to break up a stubborn clog, especially if the tank isn’t already full.
Why is my black tank valve leaking?
One of the most frequent reasons for valve leakage is solid material, toilet paper, feminine products or baby wipes that get stuck in the rubber seal. That causes the valve not to seat properly and leakage occurs. Without knowing how you use your black tank, that may or may not be an issue.
How do I unfreeze my RV tank valve?
Items you will need Use a blow dryer to slowly thaw the RV holding tank. Hold the blow dryer six to 12 inches away from the tank. Slowly pass the blow dryer back and forth over the entire exposed area of the tank. Repeat several times to unfreeze the tank.
How to Replace an RV Waste Valve Handle
Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation The waste valve, also known as the dump valve, is a piece of equipment located towards the end of the sewage pipe that regulates the flow of waste from your RV’s sewer line. Opening and closing the valve are controlled by a T-shaped handle located on the valve itself. When the waste valve handle is not functioning correctly, sewage may escape from your pipes, and you may experience difficulties draining your septic tank. A simple repair can be performed if a component such as a handle or the extension rod that connects the handle to the valve has been damaged.
Due to the fact that you’re dealing with sewage, this procedure may be a little unpleasant, but it’s a relatively straightforward repair that might save you up to $300 in servicing charges.
- 1 Order a replacement handle for the waste valve on your recreational vehicle. Replacement T-handles for extension rods are available online if the plastic or metal T-handle at the end of the extension rod has been broken off. Because these parts are not universal, you must buy a new handle from the manufacturer of your drain valve. Manufacturer’s names can be found in several places, including the handle itself and a label located near the waste valve. Call the manufacturer or place an online order for a T-handle and wait for it to arrive
- Because most companies only create one style of T-handle, this should be a straightforward task. Simply request a replacement T-handle, and they should be able to provide you with exactly what you want. Because it is used to move the extension rod in and out, the handle is prone to breaking after a few years of continuous usage. Pulling and pushing the handle repeatedly will wear out the threads, resulting in the handle breaking eventually. A replacement handle can cost you anything from $3 to $10.
- As a point of reference, the waste valve handle is composed of four components. The valve itself, the valve rod that protrudes from the side of the valve, the extension rod that connects to the valve rod, and the T-handle at the other end are all part of the assembly. This procedure only applies to a broken T-handle
- However, if the extension rod is damaged or if the valve is leaking, you may need to repair the complete valve as well. 2 To grab the extension rod with pliers, slide it out 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) and grip it tightly. Go to the location where you discharge the gray or black tank into the sewage system. Either manually pull the rod out or use channel locks to hold the fractured piece in place while sliding it out a bit. Tighten your grip on the metal rod behind the handle using pliers in order to keep it from spinning while you replace the T-handle
- Your RV is equipped with two tanks: a gray tank and a black tank. The gray tank holds water for your shower and sink, while the black tank holds water for your toilet. It is only necessary to replace the broken handle on the waste valve if you have separate waste valves for each tank.
- s3 Unscrew the T-handle by turning it counterclockwise with your hand. Keep your pliers on the rod to keep it from moving. Hands-free rotation of the handle is recommended. Continue to crank the handle back and forth until it pops off the end of the extension rod.
- Cleaning the threads with a fresh towel is a fantastic chance throughout this process. If the end of the rod appears to be a touch grimy, simply take a clean towel and brush it along the threading to remove any muck
- 4) Attach your new handle and attach it by turning it clockwise to secure it. Keep your hold on the pliers firm to prevent the rod from moving into the waste valve. Extend the extension rod by slipping your new handle over the end. Turn it in a clockwise direction until the threading is caught. As soon as it does, continue to spin it by hand until you are unable to turn it any further. Release the handle and the pliers once again to complete the process of replacing the waste valve’s handle. Advertisement
- Purchase a replacement rod and handle for your RV and don a pair of gloves to protect your hands. Whether your valve won’t open completely or if the extension rod becomes caught when you pull the T-handle, it is necessary to replace the extension rod. These parts are not interchangeable, so make sure you get a new rod and T-handle for your exact valve when necessary. T-handle or waste valve manufacturers’ names should be listed on the T-handle or waste valve itself, so you should contact them or go online to get the extension rod and handle you want.
- If your extension rod breaks or becomes bent after several years of usage, you may need to replace both the rod and the handle. It will be difficult to open or close the valve if the rod is bent or damaged, which may result in sewage remaining in the pipe behind the valve. Remember to get both the aluminum rod as well as the T-handle. These parts are generally sold as a set, but you may need to purchase them individually from the maker
- If the manufacturer offers handles in a variety of sizes, you may need to measure the rod before purchasing the handles. To achieve this, draw your rod out all the way and measure the length of the rod from one end to the other. Typically, the most popular size is 72 inches (180 cm), and this rod will cost between $5 and $10.
- 2 Remove the handle from the tank before restoring it. Make your way to the sewage line where you normally discard your garbage. Take your sewage hose and connect it to the septic tank or sewer line that you’ll be emptying it into to begin the process. Connect the hose to the valve and pull the T-handle to release the pressure in the system. Drain your tank in the same manner as you would typically do so
- If your extension rod is leaking when you open it, place a bucket beneath the defective valve.
- On your RV, there are two tanks: one for gray water and one for black water. The gray tank holds filthy water from the shower and sink, while the black tank holds waste water from the toilet and other fixtures. Drain the tank that will be receiving the new handle—you do not need to drain both tanks at the same time. 3 Using pliers or channel locks, unscrew the old extension rod from its socket. Using pliers or channel locks, pull the valve out as far as you can while holding the extension rod in place. Another pair of pliers or a channel lock can be used to secure the drain valve rod in position. To remove the extension rod from the valve, turn it counterclockwise until it comes out of the valve.
- Just to be clear, there are two rods connecting your drain valve to your water supply. The extension rod is the component of the T-handle that is closest to the handle. The portion that protrudes from the bottom of the base is directly connected to the drain valve. Unless you are replacing the complete assembly, which is discussed in the following section, you will need to replace this piece. After you loosen the extension rod using the pliers or channel locks, you should be able to spin it by hand
- However, this is not guaranteed.
- 4Slid the new extension rod over the drain valve rod to secure it in place. Grasp the replacement rod by the open end and slide it over the threading on the drain valve rod to replace it. Hand-rotate it in a clockwise direction until the threading is caught. 5 Manually tighten the rod and attach the new T-handle to the new rod. Continue to turn the extension rod by hand until you are unable to turn it any farther with your hands. The T-handle is screwed into the end of the extension rod by hand after the extension rod has been linked to the drain valve rod. Turn the handle counter-clockwise until you are unable to turn it any further.
- Empty any surplus bucket waste into the septic tank to which your RV is connected, or place it gently in your toilet and flush it to recirculate the waste through the system. After you’re finished, remove your gloves and toss them in the trash. If they become soiled, place them in a plastic bag and seal it shut before throwing them away. You should properly wash your hands when you’re finished.
- 1 Order a replacement waste valve and put on a pair of nitrile gloves to protect your hands. Waste valves, in contrast to extension rods and T-handles, are available in a variety of sizes. They are, however, available in two distinct sizes. Measure the diameter of your sewer pipe and purchase a new valve that is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) or 3 in (7.6 cm) in size, depending on the size of your pipe. There are hundreds of appropriate pipes available for purchase on the internet, but you can also get them through an RV repair business. Protect your hands with nitrile gloves, as you may come into contact with wastewater while performing this task.
- Make certain you get the valve that includes the extension rod and T-handle. Almost every valve is equipped with these components by default, but it is always a good idea to double-check. Over time, these valves become quite dusty, and they may even begin to fail. If the valve leaks while the extension rod isn’t fully extended or if the rod won’t come out completely, you may need to replace the entire valve. These waste valves will cost between $20 and $40, depending on the type of handle you choose. A few of them have caps that you twist to open and close while others are set up with the typical extension rod. They are available in many configurations, some of which have a built-in pipe to extend the site of the rod and others which have clear pipes to allow you to observe the water as you drain your sewage
- Some of which include a built-in pipe to extend the placement of the rod
- Second, slide a bucket below the junction where the valve and the pipe come together. Remove the extension rod from the valve and store it in a bucket or other empty storage container under the valve. Remember that you will be taking this component off, and it is possible that wastewater will leak out all over the place if you omit this step.
- Unfortunately, there is a chance that this procedure will become a little tangled. You’re dealing with a waste-transporting conduit, so be prepared to encounter some unpleasant scents. When you drop your garbage into the sewage line, the waste valve is the rectangular piece of metal that lies 4–12 inches (10–30 cm) behind the sewer line.
- 3 Drain and flush your tank to get rid of any garbage that has accumulated. It is necessary to cleanse the tank before you can replace the valve. Connect one end of your sewage hose to the sewer line on your RV and the other end to a septic tank or the sewer line at your campground. Drain the tank entirely by opening the valve in the same manner as you would normally do. Closing the valve by fully engaging the T-handle and capping your sewage pipes when you’re finished is recommended
- When cleaning a tank, you may make it extra cleaner by continuously flushing the toilet or running the shower (depending on which tank you’re cleaning). This will force clean water through the pipes, allowing them to be thoroughly cleaned. If your tank has a rinse setting, make use of it when you have finished emptying it. This is the most effective method of clearing the system
- 4Unscrew the four bolts that are keeping the waste valve in place and remove it. The valve is held in place by four screws or nut that are visible on the outside. It is on the rectangular lip of the valve that they are located. Examine these screws or nuts to see whether you’ll need a flathead screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, or a wrench to remove them. To unlock your waste valve, remove each of the nuts or screws on the waste valve. Helpful hint: Depending on where the valve is located, this might be a difficult task. To get the screws if your waste valve is nestled beneath your car, you may need to climb below or reach behind the sewage line. 5 Slide the old valve out of the way and grease your new flanges if necessary before replacing them. After removing the screws or nuts, carefully take the entire item out by hand to avoid damaging it. Remove your new valve from its packaging and carefully read the instructions. Providing the two round flanges have already been greased, you’re good to go. On ensure that they are protected during installation, liberally apply a generous amount of petroleum jelly to the surfaces of the items to be installed.
- The replacement valve will be delivered in two pieces, each with two round flanges. The two pieces of the valve are designed to fit into one another, and flanges are designed to fit around each pipe connection on the sides of the valve in order to prevent friction between the valve and the sewage pipes. If the manufacturer’s instructions for your waste valve do not suggest lubricating the flanges, you may be confident that you do not need to apply petroleum jelly to them.
- Place your valve together and put a flange over each pipe connection to secure it in place. 6 Take the two valve sections and hold them together so that the apertures for the pipes are pointing away from the center of the valve body. Slide the flanges over the two pipe connectors and tighten them. 7 Insert the replacement valve between the waste pipes by sliding it in place. To install the new valve, take the two valve parts and slip them in between the pipes where the previous valve was attached. The two pipes should be pushed up against the waste valve on either side, such that the pipes are flush with the holes in the waste valve. Compress the valve and two pipes together and align the screw slots on the valve with the screw slots on the pipe frame to complete the installation.
- Depending on where your pipes are located, this might be a difficult task to accomplish. Simple: take your time and double-check each connection where a pipe rests on top of a flange to verify that everything is snug. If there are any gaps here, your valve will leak when you empty the sewage
- Because the screws are set in a square pattern, you may position the valve in either of four directions when you empty the sewage. Remember to pay close attention to where you’re placing the handle to ensure that the extension rod has enough room to come out.
- 8 To complete the installation of the new valve, tighten the screws or nuts. To tighten each of the four screws or nuts, use a screwdriver or socket wrench to turn them in. Tighten all four screws or nuts halfway to make sure they’re all the same length before tightening them as hard as you can to guarantee they’re even. As soon as you are no longer able to spin the screws or nuts any more, run some water or flush an empty toilet to ensure that your new valve is not leaking
- The extension rod should be attached to the valve once it has been installed if it has not already been done so by twisting it over the valve rod that protrudes from the side. Following the installation of the replacement valve, flush the whole system with clean water to ensure that it does not leak
- Empty the waste pail into the septic tank at the campground or flush it down the toilet with caution. a. After you’re finished, dispose of your gloves by placing them in a trash bag and tying the handles together. You should properly wash your hands when you’re finished.
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- When working on your waste valve, you may notice a strong odor of sewage. If you have a sensitive stomach or wish to prevent unpleasant odors when performing repairs, you should use a dust mask or respirator while working. The waste valve is always found just behind the sewage line, which is where you empty your gray or black water tank into it. A handle protrudes from the side of the item with a square frame around it.
When working on your waste valve, you may notice a foul odor. While doing repairs, use a dust mask or respirator to protect your health if you have a sensitive stomach or wish to prevent unpleasant odors; The waste valve is always found just behind the sewage line, which is where you empty your gray or black water tank into. A handle protrudes from the side of the piece with a square frame; this is it.
Things You’ll Need
- Pliers or channel locks
- Socket wrench (optional)
- Pliers or channel locks
- The following tools are required: replacement valve, screwdriver, or wrench. The following items are required: bucket, nitrile gloves.
About This Article
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Did this article help you?
The most recent update was made on November 4th, 2019 at 10:15 p.m. If you possess an older recreational vehicle, there is a significant probability that you may encounter an issue with a holding tank that will not drain at some time. A non-draining holding tank can be caused by one of two factors: It’s generally always the black water tank that gets clogged to the point that it can’t drain correctly, but in extreme cases, a gray water tank may also become clogged and stop draining properly.
- In this advice, I’d like to discuss how to cope with a malfunctioning RV waste valve.
- When a drain valve becomes old and blocked with’stuff,’ it might be difficult to open the gate by pulling on the handle.
- Over time, the valve may, and in many cases does, fail.
- It’s a gruesome operation, but if you’re prepared, you can keep the inconvenience and the mess to a minimum.
- It will take some time to complete this operation.
It should be carried out at a campground with connections or at a dump station that is less crowded. Before you start to work, you should read my post on How to Replace an RV Waste Dump Valve for more information. What you’ll need is the following:
- A saw that can cut through plastic
- Pliers with a long needle tip
- A spare waste valve is readily available. Make certain that it is the correct size. a sewage hose for an RV
- Use a bucket or pan that will fit underneath the drain valve. a couple of rags
- It is recommended that you use rubber or latex gloves.
The following is the procedure to empty the tank:
- Connect the sewage hose from your RV to a septic drain
- Draw the pull rod all the way out to the side. Make a cut through the valve body, about in the middle, with the saw. Submerge the valve in a bucket or pan of water. The valve gate should be grasped with needle-nose pliers after reaching within the valve body. Pull the gate out just far enough to allow the tank to drain via the hose but not far enough to allow the tank to flow out of the valve housing
- Use cloths to catch any waste that may be oozing from the wound
- Fill the tank with water until the water flows clean. Allow the tank to completely empty
- Take off the old valve and replace it with a new one
What to do if your RV’s waste valve is damaged If it is not already clear, it is best to avoid the necessity for this process by replacing the difficult-to-open valve BEFORE it fails. You get to choose the time and location, and you can escape a lot of the mess and inconvenience that comes with it. In addition, you might be interested in the following articles:
How to Replace an RV Waste Dump Valve
Submitted by Tim (Nashua, NH) How to Unstick a Clogged Holding Tank Install a dump valve on your RV. The black water tank valve has become jammed, and I am unable to open it. I tried flushing it out with water to see if it would loosen the valve and allow it to open, but to no avail. Do you have any recommendations? ANSWER: Hello, Tim. I am confident that you are dissatisfied with the current scenario. I’m hoping that you have a sewer line connected to your home. Regardless of whether you are able to get the RV Waste Valve open, it appears that it is time to replace it.
- If there is water in your Black Water Tank, I would recommend emptying a full bottle of original liquid Dawn Detergent into the holding tank and let it to settle for a few hours or overnight.
- If it gets close enough to the valve, it might potentially serve as a lubricant.
- It is unclear if you are traveling by motorhome or trailer, but I have another proposal if you are prepared to drive the motorhome or tow the trailer around a little bit to make it work.
- Because the ice cubes will be shaking about in the tank while you are driving, it is possible that this will be enough to dislodge any debris that is preventing the sewage valve from opening while driving.
- Become a member of the Good Sam Club now!
- As soon as you are finished with your short road trip, you will need to reconnect to the sewage system and attempt to open the RV Waste Valve once more.
- I can’t tell you how difficult it will be to pull.
- When it comes to tapping it, I can’t tell you how hard to hit it with the hammer, but I know that right about now, you could be tempted to turn a tap into a hard overhead swing with the hammer, so you might want to exercise a little caution when you get to this stage of the process.
- Check out the Camping World products on sale right now!
- What are your thoughts on this subject?
- It is possible to include them on this page by clicking on the “Click Here to Post Comments” link, which is situated near the bottom of this page.
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My RV Waste Valve is Stuck Closed, Why, and How to Fix It?
When it comes to recreational vehicle owners, there is nothing more aggravating than a clogged waste valve. Not only does a clogged or difficult-to-open waste valve make dumping the vehicle’s tanks a time-consuming task, but it also nearly always indicates that the waste valve will require repair in the near future. Despite the fact that it is extremely unusual, your RV’s waste valve might become stuck due to the fact that it is not properly installed. If this is the case, you are in luck, as you should be able to resolve the issue with minimal work and resources.
In addition, popular remedies and preventative maintenance measures that may be used to avoid a blocked valve from occuring in the future are discussed in this section as well.
How To Loosen a Stuck Waste Valve on Your RV
As a general rule, if the waste valve on your RV starts to stick, it is a good indication that you should replace the gate valve in the near future. You don’t want to wait for the waste valve to completely fail because this might put you in a sticky scenario later on. However, if you are in the middle of a road trip or just need to release the waste valve to empty your tanks, you can try a variety of techniques to loosen the waste valve. The most popular method for loosening a jammed waste valve includes tapping the outside section of the valve with a hammer around the perimeter of where it is situated, as seen in the image below.
- If you damage the waste valve, your rv waste tank may pour all over the place, which is something you do not want to happen!
- There are various more at-home tactics that you may be able to use to attempt to open the valve if hammering it with a hammer doesn’t provide any results.
- Before you start driving your RV about, you may also add a bag of ice to the black water tank of your vehicle, which will ideally aid in the distribution of the dish soap or lubricant even further.
- If the soap manages to make its way to the waste valve, it may be able to loosen the valve just enough to allow it to open.
- A lubricant, as well as flange seals, can be added to your waste valve to assist with the opening of a blocked sewer valve.
- Ensure that the rubber seals on your gate valve, as well as the plunger, are well lubricated.
When doing this, always make sure your sewage hose is connected to a dump station, since otherwise the contents of your RV’s black tank might end up all over the ground if the tank suddenly flies open.
How to open a stuck RV Electric Waste Water Gate Valve
If your electric valve is not operating properly, it might be due to a power problem, a mechanical problem, or it could simply be jammed like a typical gate valve. To begin troubleshooting, check to see whether there is electricity. If you have power, have someone turn on the switch while you are listening to the valve. Do you hear a solenoid clicking or gears grinding while you are listening to the valve? If this is the case, it is possible that there is internal damage and that you will need to repair or replace the valve.
How to open a stuck low point drain?
If your low point drain is stuck, follow the steps outlined above, but this time apply lubricant to the mechanical parts and seals to see if you can pry it open with your fingers.
How To Remove the Waste Valve on Your RV
You can attempt the same procedure as described above if your low point drain is blocked. Lubricate the mechanical components and seals to see if you can pry it open.
How To Install a New Waste Valve on Your RV
When acquiring a replacement waste valve, make certain that you get high-quality components to ensure that this does not happen again. Preparing the RV waste system for installation of a new waste valve begins with cleaning and lubrication of the flanges on the RV waste system. Lubrication of these flanges is required to ensure that they continue to work correctly. It is possible that failure to adequately lubricate these flanges will cause a further blocked valve in the future. After cleaning the drain valve flanges, installing a new waste valve on your RV is very similar to removing the old waste valve, with the exception that the procedures are completed in the reverse sequence of the previous stages.
- It is then possible to begin tightening down the four bolts that hold the valve in place once the valve has been correctly installed.
- However, this time, one wrench should be used to hold the nuts on the ends of the bolts while the second wrench is used to tighten the bolts together.
- STEP 1: CLEAN AND grease the flanges on the waste system of the RV.
- Step 3: Tighten the four bolts with a wrench.
Tips to Avoid a Stuck Waste Valve in the Future
When it comes to RV maintenance, prevention is always preferable, and there are a variety of methods and tactics that can be included in one’s routine to keep the vehicle’s waste valve from being stuck in the future. Most people find that lubricatingthe seals or greasing the valve every other month is the most effective technique of avoiding the waste valve from sticking. During the winter, you should also make sure that you carefully clean the tanks of your recreational vehicle before winterizing it.
If any waste or water is left in the tank throughout the course of the winter, it has the potential to freeze and solidify in the area around the waste valve. If this occurs, the process of releasing the waste valve would be extremely time-consuming and annoying.
Stuck Waste Valves
In addition to stinking, a damaged or jammed waste valve also contains the odor of any RV toilet waste that is being held back by the valve in question. Of course, every owner of a recreational vehicle will do all in their power to keep their RV’s waste valve from being clogged. These occurrences, on the other hand, are sporadic. If you detect that your waste valve has become stuck, you can attempt to dislodge it with a hammer or dish shop in the manner described above. However, if the valve is sufficiently jammed, you may need to disassemble and replace it completely.
If you are repairing the valve at a dump station while still attached to your sewage line, make sure the station is not overcrowded in order to be considerate of other RV owners.
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Waste valve handle and rod pulled out of the valve
|10-29-2011, 10:10 PM||1|
|Streamin’1995 30′ Cutter Bus LEMadison, South DakotaJoin Date: Nov 2008Posts: 300Images:3||Waste valve handle and rod pulled out of the valve
I pulled on the Black Tank drain valve handle this morning to empty the tank as we prepared to leave the RV Park and get back on the road and the whole rod, rod extension and handle pulled out of the valve!The valve has been hard to operate the last few times and I knew a new Waste Valve was in my future, but I was hoping it would wait until we where parked in Florida.We will be OK until we get to Florida but then� how am I going to get the valve open to empty the tank and flush it so we can put in the new valve?Here�s the �poop� on the project:Valve: Black Tank Valterra 3� Waste Drain Valve (blade type gate valve)Rig: 1995 30� Land Yacht LEJust can�t wait to get started on this project!Any ideas or lessons learned from experience will be greatly appreciated.
|10-29-2011, 10:26 PM||2|
|Rivet Master2003 22′ International CCDKiln, MississippiJoin Date: Dec 2005Posts: 2,779Images:8||I believe that rod screws into the waste gate internally to the valve assembly.Is the rod threaded?If it is, try threading into the hole and maybe get lucky and catch the gate and pull it open to dump normally.Good Luck.Take pictures (not really)._MichaelTina with Layla and Preston BZThe family has grown.2003 22′ INTERNATIONAL CCD|
|10-29-2011, 11:02 PM||3|
|Rivet Master2000 31′ Land YachtCentral, FloridaJoin Date: Aug 2007Posts: 1,489Images:15||You can add another gate in place of the outside cap, using the same type of slots to use the pins, close it and then mess with the actual valve, if you can get it open once, your secondary valve will hold back the flood.When you get to Flreplace the original, and either keep the secondary or remove.|
|10-30-2011, 05:56 AM||4|
|Rivet Master2005 30′ ClassicBurlington, OntarioJoin Date: Sep 2008Posts: 2,743||This is a nightmare situation that I have often considered how I would deal with, I really don’t know, maybe I’d just leave it to an RV dealer although generally I like to do repairs myself if I can.I don’t know this but I’m guessing the pull rod is threaded into the gate (maybe it is molded in?)If it is threaded, maybe you can stick a wooden matchstick or something similar in the hole in the gate and get the thread to bite enough to pull the valve?Another thought – if you are able to access the end of the gate.At places like Harbor Freight, you can buy slide hammers for auto body work.They often come with different ends, including a sort of tapered pointed thread – like a self tapper.I wonder if that might engage the gate and then use the shock of the slide hammer to break the gate free.Just thinkin’ out loud, I don’t know if you can get at the bade of the valve to do this – never seen the AS design.Maybe you could get a septic tank outfit to pump the tank via the toilet in order to make it at least less off an unpleasant repair?I’ll be interested to see how you make out so I can learn for when it is my turn!Brian_BrianConnie Mitchell2005 Classic 30’Hensley Arrow / Centramatics2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4×4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.|
|10-30-2011, 06:28 AM||5|
|Rivet MasterCurrently Looking.Corpus Christi, TexasJoin Date: Mar 2011Posts: 869Images:41||So sorry Barnacle Bill.I currently have a small pair of vice grips clamped to the rod to use as a handle for the waste tank valve.Handle broke off a few months back.Never realized the whole rod could come out.Getting it pumped out first sure does seem like a good idea.Maybe one of those “port-a-john” places could help with that._ChuckSkyeRock and Roll Will Never Die!WBCCI 3805AIR 54011 Since July 2011|
|10-30-2011, 08:08 AM||6|
|Rivet Master1993 21′ SovereignColfax, North CarolinaJoin Date: Jun 2003Posts: 21,254||The rod clipsa on the blade of the valve, so if it pulled off the valve, you’re stuck. It’s going to be messy, and most RV service places put a surcharge on that kind of repair, for obvious reasons. Good luck, and I really don’t need pictures, the mental ones are gaphic enough._Terry|
|10-31-2011, 06:00 AM||7|
|Rivet Master2005 30′ ClassicBurlington, OntarioJoin Date: Sep 2008Posts: 2,743||Quote:Originally Posted byoverlander63The rod clipsa on the blade of the valve, so if it pulled off the valve, you’re stuck. It’s going to be messy, and most RV service places put a surcharge on that kind of repair, for obvious reasons. Good luck, and I really don’t need pictures, the mental ones are gaphic enough.If that is the way it works,would it be possible to get at the assembly with a dremel tool and cut away enough of the two side platesof the valve i order to get a pair of vicegrips onto the blade in the area of the clip and pull the valve that way in order to dump the tank and then install a new valve?I have no idea how much space there is to work around the valve.Guess you need to drop the pan in that area – or maybe cut an access hole.Brian._BrianConnie Mitchell2005 Classic 30’Hensley Arrow / Centramatics2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4×4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.|
|11-03-2011, 01:08 PM||8|
|Streamin’1995 30′ Cutter Bus LEMadison, South DakotaJoin Date: Nov 2008Posts: 300Images:3||Well, today�s the day. I am going to cut the rest of the blade housing away from the valve and use vice grips to grab the blade and pull it open and drain the tank. Then after flushing the tank, I can remove the old valve and install a new one.This is where the monster lives! There are a few things to remove before you can remove the panel.Once the panel is off, there it is! Way in the back and nice and hard to reach�It turns out the rod does not screw onto the blade of the valve. The end of the rod had a detent and it looks like there must be some kind of clip arrangement. I�ll know more after today�s adventures.I wish I could have found an exploded view of the Valterra gate valve, but my web searches did not turn anything.I used a Dremal tool to cut off the end of the blade housing the other day to see what I could find but you can�t see much wearing into that little slit.OK I�m off to put on the hazmat suit and get to work. More later�|
|11-03-2011, 01:54 PM||9|
|Rivet Master2003 22′ International CCDKiln, MississippiJoin Date: Dec 2005Posts: 2,779Images:8||That last photo was all I needed to see, ughhhhh._MichaelTina with Layla and Preston BZThe family has grown.2003 22′ INTERNATIONAL CCD|
|11-09-2011, 09:57 PM||10|
|Streamin’1995 30′ Cutter Bus LEMadison, South DakotaJoin Date: Nov 2008Posts: 300Images:3||Old valve removed new valve installed!
It�s done!I used the Dremel tool to remove the rest of the blade housing. (Wingeezer and I where thinking the same here) By cutting about 1� at a time, I wound up cutting away the housing right down to the valve.At this point I could see the end of the valve�s blade and the place where the rod was attached. I looked like the right side was damaged.I used a Dremel high speed cutter like this oneto cut away enough of the housing to get the Vice Grip to grab the blade.Then, very carefully, I pulled the blade out of the valve. I was afraid if the blade came all the way out I would be doing a Robin Williams moment with the poop fountain.I got the valve open, with little mess, and drained and flushed the tank. Then removed the old valve and installed the new valve.Spreading the two pipes on either side of the valve to install the new valve was one of the hardest parts of the job. The gaskets need to be carefully seated to avoid leaks and make the valve work smoothly. I used generous amounts of Vaseline to hold the gaskets in place during installation.Upon inspection of the old valve after removal, it appears one of the old gaskets was not installed correctly. It was pinched and crimped and may have been the reason the valve was hard to operate. It�s the one on the right�And the answer to the question, �How does the rod attach to the valve blade?�Like overlander63 said, the rod sort of clips on the blade of the valve.With the blade removed, it looks like rod is molded into the plastic blade. In my case it looks like the plastic on one side of the blade/rod connection broke away and the rod pulled out of the blade.I can�t tell you how glad I am that this job is done!
|11-10-2011, 06:31 AM||11|
|Rivet Master2005 30′ ClassicBurlington, OntarioJoin Date: Sep 2008Posts: 2,743||Great write up – I’ve always wondered how I would handle this problem it it happened to me.I can imagine your relief at having it all sorted out.I suppose it might vary from model to model, but how difficult is it to get at the valve, and when you can see it, is there much room to work around it?Did you drop a section of the belly pan, or just cut an access hole that you later put a patch plate over?Brian_BrianConnie Mitchell2005 Classic 30’Hensley Arrow / Centramatics2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4×4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.|
|11-10-2011, 12:01 PM||12|
|Streamin’1995 30′ Cutter Bus LEMadison, South DakotaJoin Date: Nov 2008Posts: 300Images:3||Valve Access Notes
Thanks Brian. I couldn�t find a post on how to do this project so I thought I�d write it up. I hope it will help someone else in the future.I�m sure the access to the valve will vary, but if the valve is a Valterra Bladex waste valve, the replacement should be the same.The valve was deep behind the locker back and there was not much space around it to work. Someone with short arms would be in trouble.You could not see the two bolts on the rear of the valve so they had to be removed and replaced by feel alone.This valve replacement was done on a 30� Land Yacht LE Motorhome, so the valves are located behind a locker that contains the water and sewer hookups and an out-door shower.First you have to remove all the hardware; shower, hot and cold drain valves, city water hook-up, sewer hose storage and valve handles.Then you remove the back of the locker that all this stuff was mounted on and you have access to the tank drain valves. The black tank is deep in the back (of course).I hope this will help someone with this same project in the future. If anyone needs more help or advice, you can email [email protected],Bill
|11-10-2011, 12:06 PM||13|
|Moderator1968 17′ CaravelBattle Ground, WashingtonJoin Date: Dec 2002Posts: 12,198Images:50Blog Entries:1||Great write up! Every time I pull the handle on our valve I worry it’s going to come off and I’ll be dealing with a similar fix (It’s 40+ years old, let’s face it, it’s going to happen sometime). Now that I’ve seen it, at least it doesn’t look too scary._Stephanie|
|01-11-2014, 10:10 PM||14|
|New MemberFiveville, FloridaJoin Date: Jan 2014Posts: 1||Bill,I just wanted to say thanks for this post.I had the same exact issue and this was the only instruction I found on the internet that covered it, and in amazing detail too.I wanted to add a few things in case anyone else runs into this issue:Yes, the blade will come out completely once the box has been cut away.If you pull it out while there is stuff going through the pipe, it will come out the slot where the blade valve was.If your tank is full, as soon as you pull the blade valve out a little, there will be some liquid that leaks out.It isn’t a lot, so long as you don’t pull the blade out completely, but it is enough that one should be sensitive to where they’re dumping the tank.The valve shouldn’t leak so long as the blade is pushed all the way in.In my case, I removed the retention box at my house and then drove to the closest dump station to empty the tanks, so I was a little concerned that the valve might leak on the drive.It didn’t, but I did put a strip of duct tape over the valve to make sure the blade didn’t vibrate out on the drive.Finally, I must admit that this wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it would be.If you take your time and are careful, this should be a relatively clean job.Oh, and due to the location of my valve, I used a hacksaw blade to remove the retention box.The plastic is fairly easy to cut through.|
|01-12-2014, 11:55 AM||15|
|Streamin’1995 30′ Cutter Bus LEMadison, South DakotaJoin Date: Nov 2008Posts: 300Images:3||Glad to hear the project was successful. Thanks for the add tips.|
|01-14-2014, 12:44 AM||16|
|2 Rivet MemberStone Mountain, GeorgiaJoin Date: Jul 2012Posts: 64||Good timing on these posts.The valve handle on my ’75 Landyacht came off in my hand yesterday:-(|
|01-14-2014, 01:06 AM||17|
|Rivet Master1978 31′ Excella 500Genoa, NevadaJoin Date: Jul 2007Posts: 1,420||For the next guyrl, would it be possible to drill and easy-out the blade, even though it wasn’t threaded? The slot the rod came out might be a guide for the drill into the blade._I admit to being powerless over housecleaning and social niceities Airforums 22655 and now,WBCCI 22655NevadaGeo|
|01-15-2014, 10:27 AM||18|
|Streamin’1995 30′ Cutter Bus LEMadison, South DakotaJoin Date: Nov 2008Posts: 300Images:3||Sorry to hear that SpiritAtBay, best of luck and let us know how it goes. NevadaGeo, if you look at the valve, the blade may be too thin and too far in the housing when closed, to reach with an easy-out.Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Airstream Forums mobile app|
|01-16-2014, 12:20 AM||19|
|2 Rivet MemberStone Mountain, GeorgiaJoin Date: Jul 2012Posts: 64||Quote:Originally Posted byBarnacleBillSorry to hear that SpiritAtBay, best of luck and let us know how it goes. NevadaGeo, if you look at the valve, the blade may be too thin and too far in the housing when closed, to reach with an easy-out.Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Airstream Forums mobile appIn my case, just the handle came off, not the rod. So after I peeled back the panel, it was easy to operate the rod with a pair of pliers.The valve assembly will have to be replaced eventually.Thanks, Bill|
|06-12-2014, 04:01 PM||20|
|New MemberCarrollton, TexasJoin Date: Jun 2014Posts: 1||This thread is great and really helped me understand exactly what I am up against, as I have this problem right now. Thanks, Barnacle Bill. I am going to try a slightly different approach, though, provided there is room on the other side of the valve.If possible, I plan to drill a small hole on the opposite side of the valve and use a rod to push the valve open, leaving the housing intact. I’ll let you know if it works out.|
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|Dump valve-gate attachment to handle rod?||walstibsf||Waste Systems, TanksTotes||4||02-13-201107:44 PM|
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Here’s How to Fix Your Stuck RV Black Tank Valve
It may be really frustrating to be experiencing troubles with your RV’s black tank. Because of the nature of the beast, it’s not something you want to deal with as an RVer — but it’s a fact of life for us all. What should you do if the black tank valve on your RV becomes stuck? Is it going to need a lot of manual effort or specialized equipment? Is it possible for you to fix it yourself, or will you have to spend money on a mobile RV technician? Consider the following methods for preventing and resolving this problem while saving money by performing the work yourself.
Help! I Have a Stuck RV Black Tank Valve
Don’t get too worked up over it. This is entirely normal and should not be taken seriously. Whatever your level of experience with RVing, with all of the crud and grime in your RV’s black tank, you may find yourself dealing with a jammed valve at some time in your journey. It’s a straightforward procedure that necessitates the use of minimal instruments. Keep in Mind:RVing is not always the carefree, easy-going lifestyle that some portray it to be, and we believe it is past time for you to be aware of these RV secrets.
How to Unstick Your Stuck RV Black Tank Valve
One method of unsticking your RV’s black tank valve is to fill your RV’s black tank with Dawn dish detergent and water and then drive about with it. It is possible that the sloshing about of the liquid will not only clean the interior of your tank, but that it will also reach the valve and release any residue that may be there. You may also try hammering the valve on your RV’s black tank with a hammer to see if it helps. Make sure you do this in a mild manner. Moreover, if you damage the valve, you will have more work to do and more money to spend on repairing it.
Preventing Your Black Tank Valve From Getting Stuck Again
The most important factor in avoiding a stuck black tank valve is regular maintenance. You’ll want to maintain the rod greased at all times. When you empty your black tank, spray lubricant containing silicon on the rod while the tank is still open every few months or so.
After you’ve emptied your tank, turn the valve open and closed a few times, and then shut it off completely. If this valve fails, it will be much more difficult to open the black tank valve on your RV, so do everything you can to avoid this occurring.
How to Lubricate RV Tank Gate Valves
The procedure for lubricating the valve is straightforward. Purchase a bottle of lubricant containing silicon from any big-box shop or online retailer such as Amazon. WD-40 should not be used. As a result of its sticky nature, this spray may cause problems with your seals in the future. Make use of a product such as Dow Corning 111. As previously said, you may simply spray or wipe the lubricant on the valve after you’ve emptied the contents of the black tank into a trash can. Alternatively, you might remove the valve and replace it with a new one.
- If your valve becomes blocked, you may find yourself having to replace it sooner rather than later.
- Check to see that your tanks are empty and free of debris.
- Open the valve and soak it in hot, soapy water until it is completely clean.
- Additionally, you may check to see that the seals are still in excellent working order throughout this operation if necessary.
- The following are some suggestions for cleaning your black tank: Determine which procedure is most appropriate for you.
How Often Should You Lubricate Valves?
The lubrication of your RV’s black tank valve should be a regular component of your preventative maintenance schedule. In addition to spraying your slide-outs with lubrication once per month, you should also spray the valve that controls the black tank. Don’t wait till it becomes stuck to start working on it.
Is It Time to Replace Your Waste Tank Gate Valve?
It is not difficult or expensive to replace your valve, and you can do it yourself. It’s especially worthwhile if you’re experiencing troubles on a regular basis. It would even be worthwhile to invest in a replacement kit so that you always have one on hand. There is no need to be concerned about getting the wrong one because they are universal. When the valve on your RV’s black tank becomes more difficult to open, you don’t want to wait until it fails. It’s past time to get a new one. It is possible to find various YouTube videos that demonstrate how to complete this task, but the total process should take less than an hour.
How to Replace an RV Black Tank Valve
You should start by making sure your black tank is completely empty and free of obstructions and debris. Remove the nuts that hold the valve in place. In order to capture any liquid that may seep out, you may wish to place a bucket beneath the sink. Once the valve has been removed, thoroughly clean the area surrounding the seals and gaskets. Before installing the new black tank valve, you should grease the seal to ensure that it lasts as long as possible. See for yourself how simple it is to change the waste valve on your RV.
Make cautious not to overtighten the bolts, or you risk shattering the flanges on the cylinders. To ensure that the valve operates smoothly, open and close it several times. You are free to use lubricant at this time. That’s all there is to it.
Preventative Maintenance Wins the Day
RVers must take care of their RV’s black tank valve since it is a crucial part of their lifestyle. Maintenance helps to avoid unpleasant shocks. Suppose you had a wonderful day planned with your spouse, but your plans were shattered when you broke your black tank valve out of irritation the previous morning while trying to empty your tanks. Maintain the condition of all of the many components of your RV. Things may still shatter or crack, but you should do all in your power to avoid such occurrences in the first place.
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