How To Install A 12 Inch Concrete Septic Tank Riser? (Perfect answer)

Set the riser in place: Place the round septic “riser” over the septic tank cleanout opening after first placing the rubber gasket or butyl rope or other sealant specified by the manufacturer. The riser may be bonded, glued, screwd in place, depending on the product involved.

Can you pour concrete over septic tank?

Paving Over Your Septic Tank You should never pave over your septic tank. Although soil compaction is not a major issue for septic tanks, there are other dangers presented by placing an insecure septic tank underneath concrete and heavy vehicles. This is particularly the case for old, reused septic tanks.

Why does my septic tank have 2 lids?

Solid, watertight, buried tank made of concrete, plastic, fiberglass or metal. This tank has a way in (inlet), and a way out (outlet). So, most residential tanks should have (2) lids about 5′ away from each other. A septic tank holds all the liquid waste from your home (toilets, sinks, kitchen, bathtubs, floor drains).

How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?

Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.

Should I install a riser on my septic tank?

Having a riser in place can also significantly reduce the cost of septic tank maintenance over time through the ease of access and time on the job saved. Plus you will be spared digging up your lawn every time as well.

Do septic lids need to be sealed?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

Do they make square risers for septic tanks?

The Polylok square riser adapter ring is designed to connect the Polylok septic tank risers or lids to an existing concrete tank with large square or round openings.

How many lids do septic tanks have?

A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

How do you measure a septic tank riser?

Measure the diameter of the manhole cover: If 26-29 inches, the riser will fit down into the tank opening. Measure the distance from ground to the top of the septic tank and ADD 3 inches. If more than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with 22-inch hole in the center) is needed.

How far apart are septic tank lids?

The distance between lids will be different for each sized tank: 1000 gallon tank = 6-6.5 ft.; 1250 gallon = 7-7.5 ft.; 1500 gallon = 8.5-9 ft.. Dig up the outlet chamber access lid. If you are extraordinarily lucky, the as-built drawing is accurate and you have hit the lids spot on.

How do you hide a septic tank riser?

The easiest way to hide your septic riser is by simply placing something over it, such as a hollow, lightweight landscape rock, a birdbath, a sundial or a decorative lawn ornament. Apply basic landscaping principles when deciding what to use.

How do you secure a septic tank lid?

Keep the lids secure by repairing or replacing all damaged or missing parts. Use bolts, screws, or other locks to secure the lids and prevent easy access. Never drive or park vehicles on top of septic systems – it can damage or dislodge the cover.

Installing Access Risers

In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below. Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.

A few safety tips before you get started:

Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website

Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.

Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need

It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the internet. PVC risers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some of the brand names you might be familiar with include “Tuf-Tite,” “Polylok,” and “Orenco.” Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening without difficulty. Due to the fact that certain tanks have square openings, it might be difficult to fit a riser around the square entrance.

Some types of risers are made to order based on the height you want, while others are available in increments of 6-12 inches.

Then purchase an Adapter and Risers that are somewhat bigger in diameter than the hole.

See below for Step 4 on attaching risers to the tank entrance.

Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)

Riser Adapter Ring Kit
Butyl Rope
Risers

Domed Lid OR Flat Lid
Stainless Steel Screws

The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):

As-built condition of the sewage treatment system The following items are required: sketch on paper, measuring tape, shovel, probing instrument, eye protection, and work gloves.

To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:

Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws

Raspor file
Marking pen
Tape measure

Drill with a 1/4″ bit

Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws are all available. Raspor file; Marking pen; Tape measure; Drill with a 1/4-inch bit

High-strength concrete patch mix

A small bucket
A mixing stick
And gloves

Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.

Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)

When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.

Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.

The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.

If you run into a power line, the consequences could be fatal. Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.

Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)

Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you generate a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).

You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.

Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).

If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.

Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.

You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.

Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings

In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:

Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.

Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture measures 26-29 inches in diameter. ADD 3 inches to the distance measured from the ground to the top of the septic tank. if the entrance is greater than 29 inches in diameter, a 3-foot-square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) will be necessary In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser to be employed.

Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.

The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.

A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.

Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.

How To Instal Risers On A Septic Tank

A septic tank riser system will be installed today, and we will demonstrate how to do it. If you have a concrete septic tank that does not have risers built, this instruction is for you. It is currently mandatory in many areas to have risers and lids installed on your septic tank. When it comes time to have your septic system pumped out, installing a riser system can also save you money. Please follow the instructions in the following section and you will have no difficulties.

Step 1 – Gather The Parts You Need

The following things will be required for the installation of a riser system on your septic tank. (Click on the item to make a purchase.) Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter Ring (optional) (TAR) 2)Riser Adapter Rings Kit (includes riser adapter rings) Butyl Rope (number three) Tip-Tite Risers are a type of tie-down device. 5)Tuf-Tite Domed Lid (optional). ORTuf-Tite Flat Lid (Ortuf-Tite Flat Lid) 6) Screws made of stainless steel Keep in mind that you will have to determine the size of the hole in your septic tank.

Consider this: If the hole in your septic system is 22 inches across at its widest point, you will need to purchase the 24 inch Tank Adapter Ring, 24 inch Risers, and 24 inch Lid.

Step 2 – Clean The Top Of Your Septic Tank

You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. In doing so, you will increase the likelihood of successfully creating a good seal. A concrete ring is seen on the left side of the image. Using this as an example, we will illustrate how to install a riser system. In order to offer a visual picture of a hole in a concrete septic tank, the following image was created. The diameter of this one is 16 inches. It is possible that your hole is bigger or smaller.

Remember to measure the hole diagonally before purchasing the appropriate Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter Ring.

Step 3 – Apply Butyl Rope To Tank Adapter Ring

To secure your Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter ring to the bottom of your tank, tie a butyl rope ring around it. This will aid in the creation of a water-tight seal. Make sure the butyl stretches all the way around the Adapter Ring before you tighten it.

Step 4 – Put Adapter Ring Around Hole And Screw It Down

Firmly push the Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter Ring onto the septic tank’s adapter ring to secure it. To begin drilling the holes, use the drill bit that included with the package. The Adapter Ring will have divots in the areas where the holes will be located. Once you have pre-drilled the holes, you may use the blue concrete tapping screws that are provided to secure the ring to the top of your installation system.

Step 5 – Add Butyl Rope To The Bottom Of Each Riser

The bottom of each riser will have a recessed ring in the center. In this ring, insert a strip of butyl rope and tighten it. This will ensure that the risers are watertight.

Step 6 – Put Risers and Lids On The Adapter Ring

Now it’s time to attach your risers to your Adapter Ring. Their installation will be accomplished by screwing them into place using stainless steel screws.

In order to raise it to the proper height, you can use as many risers as necessary. That’s all there is to it. You have completed the installation of a riser system on your septic tank, which should pass inspection anyplace in the United States of America.

How to Install Septic Tank Risers

A septic-tank riser is a pipe that goes from a septic tank to the surface in order to raise the tank’s lid. Installation of these low-cost devices eliminates the need to dig in order to reach the tank’s lid for inspection or maintenance purposes, saving you time and money. To place risers on your tank without needing to employ a professional, simply follow these instructions.

Step 1 – Choose the Material

The materials used to make risers include concrete, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and polyethylene. Concrete is the most common material utilized. The pricing, durability, and convenience of installation of these three materials are all different. Even while concrete is the most inexpensive material, it is also the most difficult to install due to its weight. Risers made of polyethylene are lighter and quicker to install, and they are more resistant to soil erosion than steel risers. They are, however, more susceptible to gas and water leaks than other alternatives.

This material is not only simple to install, but it also does not readily leak water or gas when exposed to extreme temperatures.

Step 2 – Decide Where to Install the Risers

Risers are used to replace the cover of the septic tank and to allow access to the tank closer to the ground’s surface. This access can be constructed above ground, where the risers are clearly visible, or it can be installed close below the surface, where the risers are not visible. Typically, above-ground installation is employed in regions that are neither visible nor interfere with grass maintenance procedures. Installing risers above ground also makes it easier to get to the tank when it is needed.

While this approach makes the risers more inconspicuous, you will have to remove the grass that has grown on top of the risers every time you need to get access to the tank in this manner.

Step 3 – Determine the Height

Septic tank access is made more accessible by installing septic tank risers in place of a lid. Access can be built above ground, where the risers are immediately visible, or below ground, where the risers are not visible but are still readily accessible. Typically, above-ground installation is employed in regions that are neither visible nor interfere with lawn care operations. Additionally, installing risers above ground enables you to more readily get access to the tank. The risers, on the other hand, are hidden beneath the surface of the earth when the installation is below-ground.

Step 4 – Gain Access to the Septic-Tank Lid

In order to install risers, you must first dig down to the septic tank’s lid in order to obtain access to the tank. Allow ample space, roughly 2 feet in all directions, for the installer to be able to move around without being obstructed.

Step 5 – Install an Adapter Ring

Remove the current septic tank cover from its position.

Make use of an adapter ring to seal up the entry to the septic system. All of the risers will be attached to this ring at the same time. Concrete is used to hold the ring to the tank in place.

Step 6 – Install the Risers

Install as many risers as necessary to attain the requisite height for an above- or below-ground installation, depending on the situation. Screwing the risers together will allow them to be connected to one another. The fact that they are screwed together makes them watertight and airtight. It is simple to repair a septic-tank riser if one is ever damaged or destroyed.

Step 7 – Install a New Lid

Lids are available in a variety of sizes. Select a lid based on the size of the risers that you want to use. Installation Instructions: Place it on top of the final riser and fasten it using the two pins that are included.

How do you install a concrete riser on a septic tank?

Installing Risers in a Septic Tank is a simple process.

Step 1 – Collect the components you’ll need

Step 2 – Vacuum the top of your septic tank
And Step 3: Attach the Butyl Rope to the Tank Adapter Ring. 4. Insert the adapter ring around the hole and tighten it down. Then, in Step 6, attach the Risers and Lids to the Adapter Ring with Butyl Rope at the bottom of eachRiser.

It is possible to gain access to your septic tank from the ground level by installing an access shaft that runs from the top of the tank down to the ground level. Ariserwill cost you around $300 to $400 to install, but it will be well worth the investment to provide maintenance crews quick access should it require repairs or maintenance. Furthermore, how many risers should be there in a septic tank? This is a must-have if you want to get to your septic tank quickly for maintenance. First, I attached a 24 x 12tank riser first, then a second 24 x 6tank riserfor more height, and lastly a 24 inch flat lid.

You’ll never have to dig yourself out of a hole again.

Here are some basic procedures to take to replace the septic tank riser so that you may continue to locate the lid with ease.

Step 1: Dig out the old Risers

Step 2: Excavate the area around the Risers
Step 3: Remove the Riser Lid
Step 4: Remove the Risers

Step 5: Remove the Ring if it is damaged
Step 6: Stack the Risers
Step 7: Add the Rider Lid

Step 8: Backfill the soil.

What is a septic system riser and how does it work? The riser of an aseptic tank is a concrete or plastic pipe that extends vertically from the pump-out holes or access ports at the top of the tank to about ground level. Despite being a straightforward and seemingly common sense notion, risers are frequently absent from typical septic tanks, especially older types.

How to Install Risers and Lids on Concrete Septic Tanks w/ Square Hole

Posted on the web by Installing risers and lids will make it much easier to get access to the septic tank for inspection, repairs, and pumping. There is an up-front expense, but that cost can be compensated over time by the cost of locating and digging every time you require access to the tank, which can add up over time. Determine the height of the riser. Tank risers are normally installed around 3 inches above the ground’s surface temperature. Having the lid at ground level will make it simpler to locate; however, some people prefer to have the lid a few of inches below ground level so that it is easier to mow over and less noticeable while in use.

The height that is chosen is entirely a matter of personal taste.
Begin by digging all the way down to the tank, cleaning and preparing the area surrounding the existing hole to the best of your ability.
Attach the tank adapter ring to the tank using stainless steel concrete anchors after applying the butyl sealant tape to the bottom of the ring.

Install half of the epoxy on the adapter ring and lower the riser so that it rests on top of the epoxy.

The epoxy and riser are seen in the illustration below. 5. Use the provided fasteners to attach the lid, as illustrated below. Before backfilling around the riser, allow 24 hours to pass.

Septic Tanks Risers- Bring Your Access To Ground Level

Getting a little tired of having to dig up your yard every time your septic tank has to be pumped out or serviced? Are you getting tired of dealing with incredibly hefty concrete lids? It appears that you are in need of septic tank risers in order to bring your access down to ground level! Our septic tank risers and covers are constructed of high-quality, heavy-duty polyethylene plastic, which makes them extremely sturdy and durable while also being lightweight and simple to handle.

THE POLYLOK ADVANTAGE

Septic tank risers are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the current market. We believe our Polylok septic tank risers are the best money can buy in terms of quality. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:

FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS

The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight! Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.

INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS

Once the hole has been backfilled, the structural ribs in the Polylok septic tank risers are inserted inside around each riser piece, providing them with tremendous strength and allowing them to maintain their shape under the pressure of the earth being pressed on them. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.

LIDS WITH HANDLES

The access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise maintained. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.

LARGE ADAPTER RING

It is also possible for the lids to be relatively flat rather than domed shaped like many other goods on the market since they are structurally supported on the bottom.

GET OUT YOUR MEASURING STICK!

A few measures must be taken before purchasing a septic tank riser system in order to ensure proper installation. The first thing to consider is the size of your opening. Take a measurement of the aperture in your septic tank at its widest point to determine the size of your tank. Instead than measuring the present lid, it’s critical to measure the opening. Because you will be removing the present cover, the measurements of the lid are no longer important and may differ from the size of the aperture itself.

You are now prepared to make a purchase based on these two measures!

THE COMPLETE RISER SYSTEM

We have a large selection of components from which you may pick to create your own own full riser system. Our many various options offer our product the adaptability to be utilized in virtually any application, but they may also be a bit daunting when attempting to pick which components to buy for a certain application. Each component is discussed in further depth below.

ADAPTER RINGS

The adapter ring is the first component that you’ll need to put together in order to assemble a full riser system. The adapter ring attaches directly to the septic tank, allowing the risers to stack, lock, and mount to it without the need for any additional hardware. Having this component is critical since the risers are not flat on the bottom because they are meant to be stackable, and it is not feasible to install them straight to the septic tank without this piece. The adapter ring provides the flat surface you need to mount to the tank while also being able to accommodate the stackable risers that are included with the tank.

Our square tank adapter ring can accommodate big square apertures up to 25 inches in diameter and large round openings up to 27 inches in diameter.

They are intended to be used with openings that are 24″ or less in diameter.

Concrete anchors, a masonry bit for installing the anchors, and butyl sealer are all included in this set.

RISERS

Following your selection of the adapter ring, it is time to go shopping for risers. The Polylok risers are available in two heights: 6″ and 12″, as well as in two diameters: 24″ and 20″. Stackable, each unit has a gasket that has been fitted as well as stainless steel screws to allow for easy installation. Determine which risers will work best for your application based on the height measurement you made between the septic tank and ground level.

OPTIONAL SAFETY SCREEN

In addition to the 20″ and 24″ riser systems, Polylok also produces safety screens that fit within the riser systems.

These screens serve as a supplementary layer of protection in the event that the riser cover is unintentionally damaged or removed, and they keep foreign objects from entering the septic tank. They also keep dogs from slipping into unprotected septic tank openings!

RISER LIDS

You will require a lid to complete your riser system, which is the final component you will require. Both the 20″ and 24″ riser systems may be used with the Polylok lids, which are available in two different types to suit your needs. For ease of access, the basic lid is equipped with handles and a gasket that has been factory placed, as well as stainless steel screws to keep it in place. These lids are strong enough to withstand foot traffic as well as the weight of a riding lawn mower driving across them.

Stainless steel screws are included for installation.
Installations below grade or in regions with a high volume of foot traffic are advised for the heavy-duty lids.

The shipping of these items in large boxes necessitates the addition of additional time, materials, and UPS shipping fees.
If you place your order before 2 PM CST, you will be able to get your order sent the same day you placed it.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered!

WILL THE LID FIT DIRECTLY ON THE ADAPTER RING OR DO I NEED TO USE A RISER?

With the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will often fit straight onto the adapter rings in the majority of cases. The underside of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid is strengthened for added strength. The height of this reinforcement is actually more than the height of the adapter ring. Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter when the opening is at least 24″ in diameter. The lid will not fit through any aperture less than 24 inches in diameter.

CAN I CUT THE RISER SYSTEM DOWN TO A SPECIFIC HEIGHT?

In most situations, with the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will fit straight onto the adaptor rings. At the bottom, the Heavy Duty Lid measures 24 inches in diameter and is strengthened. Actually, the height of this reinforcement is higher than the height of the adapter ring. Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter ring if your opening is at least 24″ wide. It is not possible to use the lid if the aperture is less than 24 inches in diameter.

DO I BRING THE RISER SYSTEM JUST BELOW, AT, OR ABOVE GRADE?

It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade. Because the riser system is airtight and watertight, there is no danger in moving it up to or above grade level.

SHOULD I USE THE STANDARD OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?

The regular lid is sturdy enough to withstand foot activity and weights up to the weight of a small riding lawn mower passing over it without bending or breaking.

If the riser system is located in a high traffic location or is going to be run over by lawn equipment on a frequent basis, the heavy duty lid is recommended. If you have any more queries, please contact us at 1-877-925-5132 or [email protected].

12″ Diameter Septic Tank Risers, Lids, and Covers

The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered! Would the POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK LID fit directly on the ADAPTER RING, or will I need to use a RISER to ensure a proper fit on the tank? With the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will often fit straight onto the adapter rings in the majority of cases. The underside of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid is strengthened for added strength.

Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter when the opening is at least 24″ in diameter.

ALL other Polylok lids will attach straight to the adapter ring, eliminating the need for a riser or any other adaptor.
No.
Cutting the riser will result in the lid not being adequately secured on the riser that has been cut down.

It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade.
IS IT BETTER TO USE THE STANDARD LID OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?
If the riser system is located in a high traffic location or is going to be run over by lawn equipment on a frequent basis, the heavy duty lid is recommended.

Yes.
IS IT INCLUDED WITH THE POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK RISERS AND LIDS TO USE SCREWS?
The Polylok Septic Tank Risers are assembled using stainless steel screws that allow them to be connected to one another.

THE POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK RISER ADVANTAGE

Riser systems are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the market today. The Polylok septic tank risers are, without a doubt, the best money can buy in this category. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:

FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS

Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.

INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS

The Polylok risers are reinforced with structural ribs that run internally around each riser segment, providing them with exceptional strength and allowing them to maintain their shape even after the hole is backfilled with dirt. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.

LOW PROFILE RISER LIDS WITH HANDLES

The septic tank access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise serviced. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.

LARGE TANK ADAPTER RING

It is necessary to use an adapter ring in order to attach risers to your septic tank. We have one of the largest adapter rings available on the market, allowing you to cover up to a 25″ square or 27″ circular aperture with a Polylok adapter ring. This ring fits both 20″ and 24″ risers, allowing you to have a great deal of versatility no matter what size your opening happens to be!

STAINLESS STEEL SCREWS INCLUDED

At Septic Solutions, we strive to make the buying and installation process as simple as possible for our customers. All of our Polylok risers and lids are delivered with all of the stainless steel screws required for installation in one package.

Septic System Parts & Installation

Our clients may rely on our reputation for providing high-quality service in an ethical manner. Whatever the nature of your septic problem, we strive to provide the most efficient and friendly service possible in the neighborhood.

Call (574) 206-1234 for Parts Delivery and/or Installation

$21.00 PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $200.00PART NUMBER NSI-6264-01PRICING PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $200.00PRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRIC

15″ I.D.18″ O.D.PLASTIC RISER STOCK

$21.00 PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $200.00PART NUMBER NSI-6264-01PRICING PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $200.00PRICING PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $200.00PRICING PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $200.00PRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FOOTPRICING PER FO

18″ I.D.22″ O.D.PLASTIC RISER STOCK

$45.00 PER FOOTLOCAL INSTALLATION WITH A STARTING PRICE OF $250.00

24″ I.D.28″ O.D.DUAL WALL PLASTIC RISER STOCK

LOCAL INSTALLATION BEGINNING AT $250.00 FOR $45.00 PER FOOT.

15″ I.D. 18″ O.D.24″ TALLPLASTIC RISER WITH 26″ X 26″ CONCRETE BASEWITH DUAL WALL GREEN LID WITH S.S. SCREWS

NSI-6264-05PART NUMBER NSI-6264-05LOCAL PICK UP ONLYLOCAL INSTALLATION STARTING AT $250.00PART NUMBER NSI-6264-05PART NUMBER NSI-6264-05

15″ I.D. 18″ O.D.36″ TALLPLASTIC RISER WITH 26″ X 26″ CONCRETE BASEWITH DUAL WALL GREEN LID WITH S.S. SCREWS

$190.00 THERE IS ONLY LOCAL PICK UP AND INSTALLATION STARTING AT $300.00.

14″ O.D. 11.5″ ID RISER LID

(12′′ RISER STOCK) WITH S.S. SCREWS (NSI-6264-07)$48.00 (FITS 12′′ RISER STOCK)

17″ O.D. 13.5″ ID RISER LID

$48.00 (FITS 12′′ RISER STOCK) WITH S.S. SCREWS NSI-6264-07 NSI-6264-07

22″ O.D. 17″ ID RISER LID

($48.00) (FITS 12′′ RISER STOCK) WITH S.S. SCREWSPART NUMBER NSI-6264-07$48.00

27.5″ O.D. 22.5″ ID RISER LID

(FITS 12′′ RISER STOCK) WITH S.S. SCREWS$48.00PART NUMBER NSI-6264-07

22″ O.D. 20.5″ ID RISER LID

COMPATIBLE WITH THE MOST POLYLOK RISER COMPONENTS UP TO 20″ IN LENGTH AND WITH S.S. SCREWS $48.00

POLYLOK 20″ DIM 6″ TALL RISER SECTION

(FITS THE MAJORITY OF POLYLOK 20′′ COMPONETS) Part NumberNSI-6264-12 is priced at $38.00.

26″ O.D. 23.5 I.D.TUF-TITE 24″ LID

MOST TUF-TITE 24′′ RISER COMPONENTS WILL FIT IN THIS BRACKET. NUMBERNSI-6264-14 PART NUMBERNSI-6264-14 $62.00

24″ DIM 6″ TALL TUF-TITE RISER SECTION

(FITS MOST TUF-TITE RISER COMPONENTS WITH A 24′′ WIDTH) NSI-6264-15PART NUMBER NSI-6264-15FOR SEPTIC FILTER INSTALLATION (FITS MOST 4′′ PVC PIPE) $49.00 $52.00PART NUMBERNSI-6264-16FOR SEPTIC FILTER INSTALLATION(FITS MOST 6′′ PVC PIPE) PART NUMBERNSI-6264-16FOR SEPTIC FILTER INSTALLATION NUMBER OF THE PART NSI-6264-17: $72.00

POLYLOK SEPTIC EFFLUENT FILTER ASSEMBLY

(FITS MOST 3′′ OR 4′′ PVC PIPE) (NOT INCLUDED) NSI-6264-18 PART NUMBER NSI-6264-18 PRICE $94.00

4″ SIM TECH YELLOW BRUSH SEPTIC EFFLUENT FILTER

SPINE MADE OF FULL METAL (FITS MOST 4′′ PVC TEES AND HOUSINGS) $54.00 NSI-6264-18 is the part number for this item.

GREY ZABLE EFFLUNT SEPTIC FILTER

(APPLICABLE TO SCHEDULE 40 SANITARY TEE FITTINGS ONLY) $68.00PART NUMBERNSI-6264-19 PART NUMBERNSI-6264-19

22″ O.D. 18″ IDCONCRETE SEPTIC RISER / TANK LID

This material is designed to fit 18′′ and smaller risers. Part Number NSI-6264-20 is available for pickup or delivery in the local area for $48.00.

24″ O.D. 20″ IDCONCRETE SEPTIC RISER / TANK LID

(APPLICABLE FOR 24′′ AND SMALLERRISER MATERIAL) Local pick-up or customer delivery is available for an additional $64.00. Part number NSI-6264-21 is available for local pick-up or customer delivery only. Based in Granger, Indiana, we serve St. Joseph County, Indiana; Elkhart County, Indiana; LaGrange County, Indiana; St. Joseph County, Michigan; Cass County, Michigan; and other surrounding counties as needed. In the event that your city or town isn’t listed, please contact us so that we can determine whether or not we can assist you.

Granger, Indiana
Elkhart, Indiana
South Bend, Indiana
Mishawaka, Indiana
Osceola, Indiana
Dunlap, Indiana
Bristol, Indiana
Goshen, Indiana
Middlebury, Indiana
Niles, Michigan
Union, Michigan
Cassopolis, Michigan

“Matt was really well-informed.” Jim R. says the staff is “extremely nice and takes the time to speak with you.” PrevNext Heather B. Previous For both residential and commercial customers, we are available 24 hours a day, seven days a week to assist with any emergency septic service needs that may arise. We vow to handle your situation as if it were our own, and we will work as quickly and diligently as possible to restore the proper operation of your septic system to its original condition. Elkhart County and the neighboring region are served by this business.

Aeration Septic – Septic Tank Risers and Lids

Septic tank lids, risers, and covers are an excellent method to save time and money while also increasing safety around the septic system and preventing flooding. Installing septic tank lids and risers to bring access to your system up to code can save you the money you would otherwise spend on having your system dug up every time it has to be pumped. If you replace heavy concrete lids with lightweight yet sturdy and durable plastic lids that can be attached securely to protect the safety of children and dogs in the vicinity of the system, you may save your back.

We are pleased to provide septic tank lids, risers, and covers from the Polylok and Tuf-Tite brands of high-quality products.

Polylok Septic Tank Risers and Lids

12″ x 6″ Septic Tank Riser made of Polylok

Extra strength is provided by heavy-duty structural rib reinforcing. For UV-Rays, a green opaque hue is used. Molded warning signs that are clearly visible for safety
Frost is prevented from clinging to frost prone locations by structural ribs on the interior.

Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 12″ Lid

Surface that is skid resistant
The highest level of UV protection currently available
In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.

Septic Tank Riser Polylok 20″ x 6″ Polylok Septic Tank Riser

Watertight and airtight
Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction. Frost is prevented from clinging to frost-prone locations by structural ribs on the interior.

Septic Tank Riser Polylok 20″ x 12″ Polylok 20″ x 12″

Watertight and airtight
Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction.

Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 20″ Lid

The surface is slip-resistant, and it has two recessed handles for simple removal. The most effective UV protection available
In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.

The Polylok 20″ Heavy Duty Septic Tank Lid is made of polypropylene.

Surface that is skid resistant
The highest level of UV protection possible
It has a foam gasket to provide an airtight and waterproof connection. In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.

The Polylok Septic Tank Riser measures 24″ x 6″.

Watertight and airtight
Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction. Bring the septic access up to grade in no time

The Polylok 24″ x 12″ Septic Tank Riser is made of polyethylene.

Watertight and airtight
Provides the highest level of UV protection currently available. High-density polyethylene is used in its construction.

Riser Lid for Septic Tank with Polylok 24″ Lid

The surface is slip-resistant, and it has two recessed handles for simple removal. The most effective UV protection available
In order to dissuade unwanted entrance, square drive screws are used.

Alternatively, you may phone us at 330-236-1561.

Tuf-TIte Septic Tank Risers and Lids

Tuf-Tite 20″ x 6″ Septic Tank Riser is made of polyethylene.

Watertight and airtight construction
Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
Stackable

Tuf-Tite 20″ x 12″ Septic Tank Riser is made of polyethylene.

Watertight and airtight construction
Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
Stackable

Tuf-Tite Heavy Duty Septic Tank Lid, 20″ in Diameter

Air and watertight connection made possible by a foam gasket
Heavy-duty, long-lasting structure

Tuf-Tite Septic Tank Riser (24″ x 6″ x 5″)

Watertight and airtight construction
Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
Stackable

Tuf-Tite Septic Tank Riser (24″ x 12″ x 4″

Watertight and airtight construction
Bring the septic access up to grade in no time
Stackable

Tuf-Tite Heavy Duty Septic Tank Lid, 24″ in Diameter

A foam gasket is used to ensure an airtight and waterproof connection. Heavy-duty, long-lasting structure
Screws made of stainless steel are provided.

Tuf-Tite Domed Septic Tank Lid, 24″ in Diameter

Screws made of stainless steel are supplied
Two horizontal safety screws are also included.

Steps that you should follow to install risers on a septic tank

Many American households are projected to consume more than 300 gallons of water each day in their houses, but do you know what happens to the wastewater once it leaves your home? Many people assume that whatever they flush down the toilet will just disappear; but, if you have a septic system, everything will wind up in your septic tank as a result of the flushing.

Where does this waste water originate from? Toilets, showers, sinks, dishwashers, and washing machines are all potential sources.

It’s critical to understand how your septic system operates and why flushing particles and chemicals down the toilet can have negative consequences. This might result in the need for more regular septic tank services, which no one wants to deal with. As you are undoubtedly aware, a septic tank is extremely essential since it aids in the separation of particles from wastewater, allowing as much of the material as possible to decompose as the liquid runs to the drain field and into the environment.

Installing risers on a septic tank with Blue Diamond pumps makes a lot of sense since they will make pumping, inspection, and maintenance much easier; not to mention the fact that they are required by law in many areas.

1.Get all the necessary parts together

In order to prepare to build a riser system on your septic tank, you will need to purchase a few goods. These items include a Tuf-Tite tank adapter ring (TAR), a kit for riser adapter rings, butyl rope, Tuf-Tite risers, a Tuf-Tite domed lid or a Tuf-Tite flat lid, and stainless steel screws. The adapter, lid, and risers should all be slightly bigger in diameter than the hole in your septic tank.

2.Make sure the top of the septic tank is clean

One of the most important steps in ensuring that you do a good job of installing risers on your septic tank is to ensure that you create a good seal; this means that you must ensure that the top of your septic tank is perfectly clean so that dirt does not ruin the seal during the installation process.

3.Applying the butyl rope to your tank adapter ring

The butyl rope that you ordered is primarily intended to assist you in achieving a watertight seal on your container. Your butyl rope must be applied carefully and methodically, immediately to the bottom of your Tuf-Tite tank adapter ring, making certain that it is applied completely around your tank adapter ring.

Again, getting this correctly ensures a water-tight seal, so take your time and do it perfectly the first time.

4.Putting the adapter ring in place properly

The next stage in the process of placing risers on your septic tank is to ensure that the Tuf-Tite tankadapter ring is correctly secured in place. You’ll want to press the adapter ring onto the septic tank with a little force to ensure that it stays in place. As part of the package that you ordered, you should have a drill bit that will enable you to begin drilling holes in the areas where you see divots on the adapter ring. As soon as the holes are drilled, you may use the tapping screws that included with the package to fasten the adapter ring to the top of your system in the right manner.

5.Apply butyl rope to the risers

In order to make each riser watertight, butyl rope should be wrapped around the recessed rings on the bottom of each one.

6.Place the risers on the adapter ring

The next step is to ensure that the risers are correctly secured to the adapter ring. That’s all there is to it!