How To Build A French Drain For A Septic Tank? (Correct answer)

  • When adding an interior french drain a channel is chipped out of the concrete along the perimeter of the basement floor. Perforated pipe is then placed within the channel which will direct the water to a collection tank within the floor. A sump pump pushes the water out of the basement and into a nearby storm drain.

How deep should a French drain be dug?

French drain depth: About 8 inches to 2 feet deep should be sufficient for many water-diverting projects, though related systems, such as those built around foundations and sub-ground living spaces, as well as the bases of retaining walls, may be deeper.

Will a French drain help a septic system?

French drains are used to divert water away from areas that need a dry environment such as your home’s foundation. It also helps in decreasing the water load from your septic system, which usually experiences high water load. The water load produced by your household should not exceed your septic tank’s capacity.

How do you build a septic tank drain field?

How to Build a Septic Drain Field

  1. Step 1: Do Your Research.
  2. Step 2: Determine Soil Drainage/Absorption.
  3. Step 3: Locate Underground Utilities.
  4. Step 4: Dig Drain Field Trenches.
  5. Step 5: Add Gravel and Perforated Pipe.
  6. Step 6: Add More Gravel.

Why do french drains fail?

Over time, a French drain may become clogged. Tiny soil and clay granules slip through the pores of the landscape fabric and gradually build up inside the pipe. Another common cause of French drain clogs is root intrusion from grass, shrubs, and trees.

How does a septic tank and French drain work?

Brick Built Septic Tanks Or French Drains The solids either float to the surface or goes to the bottom where the decomposition/treatment of micro-organisms takes place. The remaining waste water run directly into a French Drain which channels the water away.

How long should a French drain be?

The average French drain should be about eight inches to two feet deep. Systems built around foundations, retaining walls, and sub-ground living spaces may need to be deeper. Pipe length. This factor depends on specific elements of the project.

How deep should a French drain be UK?

Plan Your French Drain – Generally a trench of about 200-300mm wide is suitable in most cases, but if you have a large amount of water to drain you may need a trench of up to 450mm wide. The trench should be about 300-500mm deep, and dug so that it slopes at a ratio of 1:50.

How much gravel do I need for a 50 foot French drain?

How much gravel do I need per foot of French drain? You would need around 0.72 cubic feet of gravel per foot length of French drain for a typical French drain width of 10 inches and a depth of 12 inches if you’re using a 4″ drain pipe.

Does French drain need an outlet?

A properly designed French drain system does not require an outlet. The water will simply soak into the soil as it flows along the perforated pipe. In fact, a French drain doesn’t require an inlet on just one end either. You can construct the drain to accept water along its length, and disperse it underground.

What is the average cost to install a French drain?

According to Fixr, the average French drain costs $4,500. An exterior drain located fairly close to the surface could cost as little as $1,000, or $25 per linear foot on average. Drains installed under your basement floor could cost $2,000 or more. Expect to pay $60 to $70 per linear foot for installation.

How deep should a septic drain field be?

A typical septic drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36″; or per the USDA, 2 feet to 5 feet in depth.

How do I calculate the size of my septic drain field?

Drainfield Size

  1. The size of the drainfield is based on the number of bedrooms and soil characteristics, and is given as square feet.
  2. For example, the minimum required for a three bedroom house with a mid range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch is 750 square feet.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

Septic Tank and French Drains – what you need to know.

Grease: While grease may appear to be a safe alternative to flush down the toilet, it is not! Grease has the ability to clog your pipes as well as your drain field! It sounds like a nightmare;

What does it cost to install a septic tank?

Installation costs will vary depending on the type of septic tank you choose: plastic septic tanks, which are waterproof and entirely resistant to corrosion, weigh far less than concrete or steel septic tanks, making them significantly easier to install than the latter. A steel tank has a lifespan of 15 to 20 years, however a concrete tank has a lifespan of well over 40 years provided it is properly cared for and maintained. In this case, Savvy Plumbing can provide advice to the customer. At the same time as the foundations for the home or structure are being built, a contractor or builder will dig the area for the tank and system, with a minimum spacing of 3m between the tank and system.

What does this mean for you?

  1. The elimination of monthly municipal sewerage expenses, as well as the ability to manage the cost of installation with your selection of system The environmental effect is significantly less severe than in cases when wastewater escapes into the ground or into rivers as a result of a lack of maintenance by local authorities. Now is the time to take action to reduce your carbon impact. A little amount of maintenance is required each year, with an additional percentage required every few years.

How does a Septic Tank work?

There are several components to the septic tank system, each of which performs a distinct role. These components are as follows:

  • In the case of the septic tank itself, untreated waste water from your home or building drains into it.

In the case of the septic tank itself, untreated waste water from your home or building drains into it;

  • The French drain is used when waste liquid reaches a specific level and then gently flows into a land drainage system/drain field/soak pit after a given amount of time.

Buying and maintaining a septic tank

French Drain– as the waste liquid reaches a specific level, it flows into the French drain and then slowly into a land drainage system/drain field/soak pit after a period of time.

  1. Consult with your local plumbing organization or septic tank professional about draining your septic tank every two to five years, depending on how much water is used and how many people live in the house
  2. And It’s a good idea to have the sludge and scum layers measured at least once a year, otherwise you might end up with blockage and leaks in your system. The fact that you should only flush toilet paper and water down the toilet if your home has a septic tank should not be overlooked either. Besides paper towels and sanitary goods (including condoms), cigarette butts, disposable diapers, and other non-biodegradable objects, should not be flushed down the toilet, but should be disposed of in the trash instead of flushed down the toilet. If you ignore this fundamental guideline, you WILL get into difficulties. See that your toilet cleaning product’s label specifies that it may be used safely before using it. Septic tanks are not immune to chemical attack
  3. It is important to check that the concrete top of the tank is not cracked or leaking, as liquids from the tank might convey disease-causing organisms.

If you see any of the following, you should contact a plumbing professional immediately: It is possible to have wet areas above the tank or wastewater that is rising to the surface. c. The sound of gurgling pipes in the plumbing system Slow-draining basins, sinks, and toilets, to name a few examples. Founded in 2012, 24-7 Plumbing is a subsidiary of the Boksburg-based Savvy Holdings Group, which has been in business since then. Our knowledgeable management and team have a combined twenty-five years of experience in the sector, so you can be certain of their expertise, professionalism, and technical know-how when you work with us.

Alternatively, you may send us a message through this website.

How French drains can help your septic system – www.septicmaintenance.com

The purpose of this essay is to explain how French drains may benefit your septic system. Every strategy necessitates the development of a backup plan. If you’re a homeowner, you’re probably well aware of the reasons for this. If a component in your house fails, you should have a replacement or a repair plan ready to go in case of emergency. In particular, it relates to the primary parts that you have in and around your property, like your French drain. Excess water is becoming increasingly common these days, particularly in locations where rainfall and water consumption are both abundant.

  • When water begins to gather in your basement or along the walls of your home, you must take action to stop it.
  • When moisture penetrates into the foundation of your home, it causes early decay to occur.
  • It would only be a matter of time until you were forced to pay tens of thousands of dollars to rectify the situation.
  • A French drain, because of its straightforward design, may be able to effectively waterproof your property.
  • In addition to French drain, other names for this type of drainage system include: rubble drain, blind drainage system, drain tile, rock drain, French ditch, land drainage system, and perimeter drainage system.
  • In addition, it has a perforated pipe running the length of it.
  • The holes in your French drain are required in order for the water to dissipate through the rock layers as rapidly and efficiently as feasible.

A gravel replacement has been laid around the perimeter of the perforated pipe, and that is all that is included.

A French drain is a drainage system that is used to channel water away from locations that require a dry environment, such as the foundation of your home.

The amount of water generated by your household should not be greater than the capacity of your septic tank.

In the event that there is an excessive amount of water entering the septic tank, the solid particles are forced towards the drain field.

When it rains heavily, the same thing happens as when it does not.

The extra water may be filtered even when it overflows from the septic tank as a result of this system.

The filtered effluent is then spread into the surrounding soil, where it is treated once again by the latent bacteria that have been present.

It will aid with the capture of extra water, particularly surface and ground water brought in by severe rains and flooding.

Extra French drains assist the pre-installed French drains in performing their functions more efficiently and with fewer complications to contend with.

French drains may save you a great deal of time, effort, and money when it comes to maintaining your home.

Consult with a septic and drain specialist to establish the most appropriate location for installing French drains on your property. Posted in:Septic tank upkeep and repair. Tagged with: failing drain field, failed septic system

How can French drains help your septic systems

When it comes to preserving their homes, homeowners are frequently confronted with a variety of difficulties. They must take into account a number of factors to ensure that their investment does not go down the drain. It is critical for them to handle any issues that may occur while they are at home with their families. Undoubtedly, one of the most prevalent issues that homeowners have to deal with is the excess water that builds up on their property. Excess water can be attributed to two primary causes.

  1. The presence of excessive water on your property has the potential to negatively impact the quality of your house foundation and septic system.
  2. The foundations of your houses should constantly be kept dry in order to be able to withstand the forces placed on them by everyone who uses the living area.
  3. It is the rain gutter that drains over or near the septic system that is the source of the runoff.
  4. Although the septic system is capable of handling wastewater, it is limited in its ability to manage the amount of water for which it was designed and built.
  5. As a result, how may French drains be beneficial to your septic system?
  6. You should make every effort to comprehend how French drains may benefit your septic systems in order to have less headaches related to the state of your property and the health of your family.
  7. It redirects water from areas of higher concentration to areas of lower concentration.

The French drain or soakaway installed around your septic system is required to ensure that the system continues to operate properly even in the event of heavy rain or high water use in the home.

Water that has not been treated or that has been discharged directly into the drain field clogs everything.

Thousands of dollars will be spent on the repairs and replacements necessitated by this incident.

A French drain will capture the raw effluent if the septic tank overflows, which will then allow the anaerobic bacteria to do their task of breaking down solid waste particles.

The slime further cleanses the wastewater before it is discharged into the neighboring drain field system (see illustration).

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The water that has been treated and disinfected has reached the water table and is available to be reused by other families in the immediate vicinity.

You are capable of completing this task on your own.

The French drain must have an appropriate slope that will allow it to use gravity to convey the wastewater ahead as quickly as possible.

Its tubes must be perforated in order to aid in the dispersion of pre-treated effluent into the surrounding soil on an equitable distribution basis.

On this basis, you may be certain that the measurements and installation procedures are correct. French drains have the potential to benefit your septic system. Your home and septic system will survive for a long time if you use these components.

French Drain Installation Guide

If you’re looking into French drains, it’s likely that you’re currently experiencing drainage problems and want to understand more about the sorts of problems that a French drain may solve and whether a French drain is the appropriate choice for your property. Because of the varied topographies of the United States, the most essential drain in your home may not be in your kitchen or bathroom. The truth is, it may not even be a part of your interior plumbing system at all. Instead, a trench filled with gravel and a perforated pipe in the landscaping or adjacent to your home’s foundation may serve as your most significant drainage system, according to the EPA.

In this case, the French drain is being discussed, and if you are unfamiliar with this vital drainage security feature, the information on this page is intended to educate you on the subject.

Article Contents

  • What is a French drain
  • How does a French drain work
  • The characteristics of French drain pipes
  • The cost of French drains
  • The applications of French drains
  • The design of French drains
  • The installation of French drains
  • Further resources

What is a French Drain System?

It is also known as a curtain drain, perimeter drain, weeping tile, or agricultural drain. It is a gravel-filled trench that incorporates a perforated or slotted pipe, which is also known as a curtain drain or perimeter drain. A surface water or groundwater drain is a pipe that is used to divert water away from a specified region, such as the foundation of a building. French drains are designed to send surface-level water toward the lowest point of the drainage system and enable it to soak through the surface-level gravel into the drainage system itself.

  1. The water is then collected in a perforated pipe that runs at the foot of the drain and diverted away from the house and into a more suitable region for daylighting or infiltration, as shown in the illustration.
  2. Aside from that, French drains can prevent water from accumulating and pooling in certain regions, saturating the ground below, and resulting in water problems either at the surface or below the surface.
  3. Subsurface drainage systems have been in use for hundreds of years, and they are useful for a variety of tasks ranging from regulating agricultural runoff to supplying yard drainage.
  4. In the beginning, French drains were nothing more than plain ditches filled with gravel.

French built his own drains out of portions of roofing tile, before later developments incorporated perforated drains that prevented clogging as a result of clogging.

How Does a French Drain Work?

It’s important to remember that liquid will always seek for the lowest place it can reach along the shortest path, easily sliding into empty pockets in a loose soil. That is the key to installing a French drain: It creates a recessed channel that helps water to percolate out of the surrounding soil and flow along a smooth route, making for a dependable and simple passage. In order for a French drain to operate correctly, gravity must be present. This is because gravity first drives water down from the surface and out of saturated soil, then drags the water along the downward-sloping pipe to the chosen discharge point.

French Drain Pipe Characteristics

Because of its durability, plastic is one of the most commonly utilized pipe materials for the construction of a French drain. Pipes made of corrugated steel or PVC are the most often used types of pipe. Both are lightweight, but corrugated pipe has the advantage of being more flexible, whilst PVC has the advantage of being stronger and more rigid. Regardless of the material used to construct the pipe, it must be slotted or perforated at regular intervals in order to allow water to enter and circulate through the system properly.

The drain pipe itself is composed of high-density polyethylene and has been ribbed and perforated for improved drainage performance.

When constructing French drain plumbing, it is also important to consider other parameters, since the diameter of the pipe will affect the amount of water that may flow through it.

French drain systems for commercial or agricultural use may also need the use of larger-diameter perforated pipe.

French Drain Cost

Estimating the cost of French drain installation should be done before beginning any work, just as it should be done for any other job. The materials used in a French drain, such as the pipe, aggregate, fabric, couplers, and end caps, are the primary determinant of the cost of the drain. There may also be additional costs, permissions, or equipment leases that must be obtained. Traditionally, a standard French drain costs around $20 to $30 per foot, but home-built French drain expenses may also include equipment rentals, such as a trencher or compactor, depending on the size of the drain.

The length of a pipe may be estimated by measuring the distance between the water collecting point and the discharge outlet on the other end.

A rough estimate of the amount of gravel required may be obtained by multiplying the length of the trench by the width of the trench and the depth required to completely cover the pipe.

When calculating the cost of a French drain-type system, using a French drain calculator can assist to establish the cost more precisely by tallying up the length of trench required, as well as the number of lengths of pipe necessary to fill that trench A French drain installation cost estimate should take into account labor costs as well.

Draught-proofing professionals are available for hiring and charge varied rates for their services, but even a do-it-yourself job may be evaluated in terms of its potential cost and benefit.

French Drain Applications

French drains are employed by residential, commercial, and municipal property owners around the country who are experiencing drainage problems that are causing damage to their houses, buildings, and property, as well as limiting the usefulness of their lawns and manicured areas. Water travels downhill following lines of least resistance, and as a result, it can accumulate against sunken walls and obstacles, where it can erode the material over time. Then, even a hairline breach can allow water to seep into areas where it isn’t intended, causing damage to property, health dangers, and other problems.

A French drain can be used to solve drainage difficulties in the following situations:

  • Building foundations, basements, and crawlspaces are all examples of structural engineering. Lawns and landscaped landscapes are included. Sports fields, playing fields, and playgrounds are all examples of public amenities. Patios and driveways made of hardscape materials
  • Retaining walls are a type of wall that is built to keep things in place. Any region that has been saturated on the surface or in the subsurface

After a storm, keeping an eye out for areas where water pools — especially if it does so for several hours or days — is a simple method to locate a French drain. As a result of its ability to retain water, clay soil might contribute to this problem. Another way in which clay can cause French drain clogging is by filtering tiny particles into the aggregate, where the particles fill in holes and prevent water from passing through. This is why considering the French drain by another of its nicknames, the “burrito drain,” might be beneficial.

It is impossible to get anything in unless you put it there yourself.

Listed below are some frequent drainage issues that homeowners have, as well as how a French drain may help to mitigate or eliminate those issues.

  • Flooding has occurred in your backyard. If severe rains have left your yard with an unsightly water feature, or if the spring thaw has left your yard waterlogged, a French drain can be of great assistance to you. A French drain installed in this damp area allows the drain to collect undesired water and divert it to a more appropriate spot, allowing you to reclaim your green space. Your outside patio has been damaged. Your patio is a source of great pleasure and a gathering spot for family and friends, but too much water may damage the area, erode the pavers, and also serve as a breeding ground for mosquitoes, making it impossible to spend time outside. A French drain can serve as a protective barrier, collecting water before it reaches the patio and directing it to a different location. Standing water, which mosquitoes require, will be eliminated as a result. Damage to the foundation as well as low-lying regions such as your basement is possible. Check the walls of your basement for cracks and damage. If you detect a musty odor or a puddle on your floor, you need a French drain installed right away. This water may be prevented from ever reaching your home by installing a French drain, which will prevent flooding in your basement and the foundation of your home from sustaining more damage.

French Drain Design

In your own backyard, there’s been flooding. It is possible to use a French drain to alleviate flooding in your yard after heavy rains or after the spring thaw has caused it to become saturated. A French drain installed in this damp area allows the drain to collect undesired water and divert it to a more appropriate spot, allowing you to reclaim your greenspace. Infliction of harm on your outside patio Your patio is a source of great pleasure and a gathering spot for family and friends, but excessive water may damage the area, erode the pavers, and also serve as a breeding ground for mosquitoes, making it impossible to spend time outside.

Mozzie breeding grounds will no longer exist as a result of this.

The walls of your basement should be checked.

French drains are required as soon as a musty smell or a dripping floor are noticed. This water may be prevented from ever reaching your home by installing a French drain, which will prevent flooding in your basement and the foundation of your home from sustaining more damage;

  • A French drain’s depth should be between 8 inches and 2 feet, however related systems, such as those designed around foundations and subterranean living spaces, as well as the bases of retaining walls, may be deeper than this. Aggregate for French drains: The size of the gravel used can range from little pea gravel to big chunks of river rock, depending on the application. If different sizes of aggregate are used, the smaller bits are often placed closer to the pipe, while the bigger ones are placed closer to and on the surface. The length of a French drain pipe is: This has already been discussed, and it actually relies on the unique features of a project. To be sure, the pipe must be long enough to transport water from the underground collections points to the point at which it is daylighted. French drain flow: The slope of the drainage system, as well as the positioning of the aggregate and the use of a surrounding fabric to prevent debris from blocking the pipe, are all important considerations.

French Drain Installation

This article will walk you through the process of installing a French drain on your home.

  • Decide on the most appropriate place. The location of the problem regions, the height of the surrounding area, and the state of the soil all play a role in determining the optimum placement. Make use of the design recommendations listed above to assist with site selection to guarantee adequate slope, depth, and other factors. When it comes to dirt, sandy soil placed in a secluded region is recommended, but your installer will choose the best option for your property depending on its specific characteristics. Make preparations to excavate the French drainage system. It’s your French drain, but it has an impact on more than just you. City rules must be taken into consideration, and you must be conscious of the potential impact your newfound drainage solution may have on your neighbors. In addition, this is a good time to call the local utility provider in order to get any underground lines designated before any digging takes place. Once you begin excavating, the depth of your drain will need to range anywhere from eight inches to two feet, depending on your demands and the alternatives accessible to you.
  • Take note of the grade. The first step in this procedure is to drive two stakes into the earth to denote the dimensions of the trench. Using a tight thread, they are connected together, allowing for quick grade measurements when the digging operation gets under way. Throughout the operation, regular measurement checks will be carried out
  • A trench will be dug over the slope. The excavation of the trench is the most time-consuming part of the project, and it is vital to take regular grading measures while the trench is being dug. The length and breadth of the trench will be determined by the size of the drainage problem. The smallest drainage problems can be solved with a trench that is 5 to 6 inches wide, whereas the largest drainage problems will necessitate a deeper trench. Add the fabric to the mix. It will be lined with landscape fabric and then filled with additional gravel after the trench has been dug and filled with water. This fabric prevents dirt from mixing with the gravel and helps water percolate through the ground surface. As soon as the fabric has been laid down, a light load of gravel is shoveled over the top in order to allow the corners of the fabric to be wrapped around the gravel, which holds it in place
  • Insert a pipe. Placing a slotted or perforated pipe at the bottom of the trench will help to drain the water. It is necessary to direct the pipe towards an outlet in order for it to drain away from the house. Gravel should be used to fill the space. The drain is almost completely clogged. The gravel, in whatever size you choose, will now be shoveled into the hole. Once the gravel is in place, cover it with a second layer of landscape fabric before covering it with topsoil and new sod.
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The installation of a French drain and the elimination of drainage problems at your property are as simple as these seven procedures.

Septic Tanks & French Drain Systems

To begin, let me state unequivocally that we do not purport to be specialists in this field. We have cleaned hundreds of sewage systems, the most of which were connected to the municipal system, but a few of which were connected to septic tanks. We have repaired a lot of septic tanks and have even erected a number of new septic tank systems, both of the brick and the plastic variety. What you are about to read is based on my own personal experience. If you ask 10 septic tank “experts” the same subject, you are likely to get 15 different replies!

  1. Anyway, here’s some fundamental information on septic tanks to get you started.
  2. If you are reading this, it is probable that you have an issue with a system that is not functioning properly.
  3. There are two possible causes for this.
  4. Also, it’s possible that the tank is overflowing?
  5. It is possible that there is nothing wrong with the septic tank itself, but the water is rushing in quicker than it can be absorbed.
  6. – Increased water table as a result of heavy rains.
  7. – A contaminated (clogged up) drain field as a result of a poorly designed septic tank or just old age.

The second most prevalent issue is that the sewer lines become clogged.

Once again, this is due to the drain field not functioning properly.

There is no flow to remove the clogs, and a problem in a sewage system will be exacerbated as a result of the extremely low flow rate.

What is a drain field, and how does it work?

Along the length of the ditch, a perforated 110mm pipe discharges water into the rocks, where it can be absorbed.

The drainfield must be properly sized in accordance with the soil percolation level and the flow rate.

In this instance, an anaerobic septic tank would be required.

What is a septic tank, and how does it work?

An effective septic tank is a (well sized) storage tank made of a variety of materials that holds solid waste and water (sewerage) for an amount of time sufficient to allow biological activity to break down the solid waste.

Traditionally, a septic tank is divided into two or more segments, with each compartment leading to the next.

The second compartment is a settling tank, which contains smaller suspended materials that settle out and allow for additional decomposition to take place in the surrounding environment.

The water that is discharged into the drain field should be generally devoid of particulates, but it should still be physiologically harmful to all living things!

Decomposition takes place in a single tank that is only minimally baffled in order to prevent surface scum from migrating out into the surrounding environment.

There is no settling tank, and we believe that this will place an extra pressure on the drain field in terms of fats and suspended particles, but we cannot say for definite that this will happen.

We believe that this will result in a reduced drain field life.

Traditionally, split tanks have been used in these types of systems (compartments).

The inlets and outputs are almost exactly at the same level (within a 100mm variation) in order to maintain a steady level within the tank.

Theoretically, anaerobic decomposition emits gasses – however I’ve seen numerous tanks without vents that look to function without issue – and in fact, they don’t seem to emit any odor at all.

This is more effective, and the water that comes out of the septic tank is eventually cleaner as a result.

What is the rationale for separating grey water and black water into two systems?

What occurs is that you end up with two different sorts of water: grey and black.

The color black is derived from the toilets and sinks.

Separate systems are used to transport grey water and black water from their respective sources.

So, what exactly is the benefit?

You also “poison” less water by mixing it with raw sewage.

Water entering the drain field is less harmful than water leaving the toilet – yet it is still dangerous since the black toilet water continues to utilize the same drain field.

You must thus keep your grey water separate from the wastewater that comes out of your septic tank if you wish to reuse it.

To summarize, unless you intend to really use grey water, there is no reason to bother with two systems of water treatment.

Gray water (with particles) that is pumped straight into the drain field can shorten the life of the drain field – washing powder in particular can cause this to happen.

It is expected that ash from washing powder would be captured in the gully trap.

Septic Tank Upkeep and Repair.

It looks after its own interests.

As previously indicated, the first problem you are most likely to notice is that the water has stopped flowing and the item may be overflowing – this is almost always due to a clogged drainfield.

The long-term solution is to install a “new” drain field.

If the tank is damaged or malfunctioning, it is generally more cost-effective and convenient to replace it with a new one.

A plastic type tank should be used, unless you have a compelling cause to make your own.

They should also endure for a very long time if they are fitted appropriately, which they should.

2.

A modern “up market” house may use as much as 3000 liters or more of water.

Tanks of 3600 liters are a popular choice.

For difficult soil conditions, consult a professional to establish the size of the drainfield, which must be determined by a percolation test.

Do not get carried away with the construction of large tanks out of bricks!

Make use of the term “Brickforce.” 5.

If you are pumping out a plastic tank for the first time, use caution because they have been known to float out of the ground if there is groundwater at the surface of the ground!

If you need to deliver sewage to a large number of dwelling units – such as in a complex, hotel, or lodge – consider employing many septic tanks rather than a single large one to save money.

7.

During times of problems or maintenance, one of them might temporarily take over for the other.

The aerobic layer is only present in the first half a metre of soil, and it is in this layer that aerobic decomposition is most effective.

You should make certain that you have received the required consent from the appropriate authorities.

10.

There is no pollution of the groundwater since the water that comes out of them may be used for agriculture.

The only other drawback is that it requires a modest amount of power to function.

11.

Repairing a Septic Tank Generally speaking, I no longer fix faulty tanks.

To properly dispose of the old one, it must be filled with dirt or stone and buried.

If you want extra information on septic tanks, please see the following link, which is more detailed:-) The most recent update was made in December 2011. Please contact me at [email protected] if you have any questions. Conditions of Use and Terms & Conditions of Use

How to Build a Septic Drain Field

Credit for the image: Panya /iStock/Getty Images Although it takes time to construct a septic drain field properly, the effort is worth it in the long run. Septic tanks have a lifespan of 15 to 30 years. Drain fields, also known as leach fields, do not persist for very long periods of time, unfortunately. A drain field can survive up to ten years if it is installed in a well-drained location with excellent ground absorption. Drain fields can be divided into four portions of 25 feet each, or two sections of 50 feet each, depending on the layout you select for your drainage system.

Step 1: Do Your Research

To find out whether a permit is necessary for the installation of an aseptic field line or whether the health department must examine the drain field during construction or after it is completed, check with your local county office and health department for further information. It is almost always necessary to obtain a permit and have your property inspected.

Step 2: Determine Soil Drainage/Absorption

In order to assess the soil’s absorption capacity, dig a hole in it. Soil testing may usually be performed for a minimal price by the local Department of Agriculture office if you live in a rural area. A drain field should not be constructed in an area with poor drainage. A septic drain field should be located 10 feet away from the house or any body of water, as well as 10 feet away from gardens and edibles.

Step 3: Locate Underground Utilities

Before you begin digging, contact a utility finding provider to ensure that you do not accidentally cut any underground utility lines while digging. Spray paint or flags will be used to designate the ground above any lines that are drawn by the firm. It is possible that you will be held accountable for the expense of restoring the cables if the lines are not clearly designated and one or more of them are severed because you did not have them marked.

Step 4: Dig Drain Field Trenches

It is recommended that each drain-field trench be at least 3 to 4 feet broad and 3 to 4 feet deep. For a 1,000-gallon septic tank, there should be at least 100 feet of drain field. This can be performed by digging four 25-foot-long trenches or two 50-foot-long trenches, as appropriate. Each 8 feet of pipe should be placed in a trench with a modest downward inclination of no more than 1/4 inch per foot of pipe. A downhill slope that is too steep might result in drainage issues since the waste could pool at the end of the trench.

Step 5: Add Gravel and Perforated Pipe

Fill in the trench with a thick layer of gravel that is at least 1 foot deep and extends the length of the trench. It would be preferable to have one and a half feet of gravel. Place a perforated pipe into the trench on top of the gravel and join the pipe to the septic tank drain using a clamp.

Step 6: Add More Gravel

Another half-inch of gravel should be placed on top of the perforated pipe, with additional gravel placed around the edges. Septic fabric should be placed over the gravel to prevent loose dirt from entering into the rocks. Backfill the trench with the dirt that was previously taken from the trench by raking it up and into the trench.

Approximately a week later, once the earth has had a chance to settle a little, pile some additional dirt on top of the trench in order to elevate the level of the soil until it is equal with the surrounding ground and to prevent rainfall from gathering in the depression.

How to Build a French Drain

Water management is a vital consideration in the design of a sustainable garden since, as I’ve previously stated, without water, nothing grows. In fact, water is almost the very core of life itself! It is vital in Permaculture to design a garden that makes the most of available water resources, especially in a place like Australia, which is the driest continent on the planet and where there is a scarcity of water on a regular basis. French drains are one of the numerous techniques that may be used in Permaculture to help you manage your water more effectively.

The Permaculture Perspective on Water

Water is one of the most important design aspects in Permaculture; we strive to capture it, use it as efficiently as possible, re-use it wherever feasible, and deal with waste water in a sustainable manner. You cannot build an efficient Permaculture garden design until you understand the nature of water and how it reacts in different situations. We’ll go over some water essentials to help you understand how to use French drains in your garden:

  1. As a result of gravity, water will naturally flow downhill and will run from higher to lower levels until it reaches the lowest level, when it will settle down and become stable. This may appear to be self-explanatory, but we must evaluate what it implies in the context of nature, soil, and plant life. Rainwater raining on a mountainside will stream down the hill very fast, gathering up loose dirt, debris, and leaves as well as other organic materials along the way, and carrying it down the mountainside as well. At some point, the terrain levels out and forms a valley, into which all of the nutrient-carrying rain finally drains, creating a wet, fruitful valley that is also likely to have a lake at its bottom. The plants and trees in the valley have access to all of the water they require because the water seeps deeply into the soil, where it can be accessed by the roots of the plants. However, because the water flows along the hill’s top rather than soaking into the soil, very little water has seeped into the mountainside itself. Furthermore, soil and nutrient-dense material may be lost as a result of this process. Instead of flowing into a valley, water creates a stream that flows into a creek that flows into a river that eventually flows into the sea — and because sea level is the lowest point on the planet, the water makes its way there as it would naturally
  2. If water is flowing down the slope of a mountain or down the side of a hill, it will follow the shortest way to the bottom, as will any moving water, such as a stream or river, which will take the shortest course to reach the lowest level. The shortest path means that it has the least amount of touch with the soil and consequently soaks as little as possible into the soil on its downhill trip to reach the lowest position. Water is readily absorbed by decomposed organic matter– humus, which is formed as a result of the decomposition of plant matter– and this results in a soil that is rich, dark, and has excellent water-holding capabilities. It is what is referred to as hydrophilic, which means that it attracts and holds water. The phrase “hydrophobic” refers to soils that have been dried up, leached, and have little organic matter remaining in them
  3. Water does not hold in these soils and instead flows off the surface
  4. These soils are classified as such because they resist water. In the case when you’ve irrigated a patch of impoverished soil only to dig into it afterwards and discover that the soil beneath is bone dry, you’ve witnessed hydrophobic soil in action. Simple as it sounds, if you want your soil to make the most of available water, you need add heaps of organic material to it. Due to the fact that rich, fertile soil has the ability to hold water, it can transport a certain amount of water between irrigation and rainfall, providing plants and trees with a constant supply of water by acting to buffer the seasonal nature of rain and drought. Rich, fertile soil also has the ability to hold water, so it can transport a certain amount of water between watering and rainfall. As water soaks into the soil, it continues to migrate lower into the water table, where it flows into underground streams and aquifers in search of the lowest point, just as it does on the surface of the earth. However, because it flows more slowly under the earth, you have a slow-moving water storage system that plants and trees may draw from as it slowly floats by. Additionally to water storage in tanks and dams, we may also employ nutrient-dense soil that is rich in organic matter to serve as a secondary water storage system, thereby increasing the quantity of water that can be stored. Slowing down the flow of water is possible
  5. For example, water pouring down the slope of a mountain over dry, eroded soil would stream straight down over the surface rather than soaking into the earth at all. If we adjust the course in order to provide it with a “scenic route” back to the lowest point, we may make it flow sideways (horizontally) in order to traverse the longest journey possible before it reaches the bottom, hence increasing the length of time it is in touch with the earth. If the soil is rich, fertile, and water-absorbent, it will act like a sponge, drawing the majority of the water in and allowing just a little amount to reach the bottom. You may wonder how we manage to cause water to flow sideways down a hill. The process is straightforward
  6. Simply dig trenches following the contours of the slope – that is, we can simply dig a series of horizontal trenches across the hill along level lines – and we are done. To better understand contours, consider the lines on a map that show you the height and identify slopes, hills, and gullies, among other things. Throughout the map, each contour line is at the same elevation for its entire length. Trenches dug at the same depth on the same spots marked by contour lines on the map would be perfectly level, allowing water to sit at the same height in each trench if they were filled with water. If you dug all of your trenches at the same depth on the same spots marked by contour lines, your trenches would be perfectly level. In Permaculture, thesecontour ditches are referred as as swales. If you use swales, you will build an aberm, which is a swale mound or embankment created by banked-up soil on the downhill side of the trench you are digging. Planting the berm with ground cover and nitrogen fixing plants helps to increase the soil’s fertility. Once the plants have established themselves, a row of trees (typically food-producing) is planted along the berm’s perimeter. As it flows down the slope and into the depths of the earth, the water soaks beyond the tree roots. In addition, the swales will gather any dirt that is being eroded off the slope and will slow the flow of water down, resulting in a significant reduction in soil erosion.
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Swales are naturally more at home on rural hillsides than in urban back yards, however you can use the same principle on a smaller scale in an urban back yard by digging a shallow trench on a slope to minimize run-off. There is yet hope for those of us who have concrete in our backyards, which produces 100 percent runoff and does not retain any water. A French drain is the next best thing to a swale when it comes to absorbing runoff and re-directing it back into the landscape. In the steps that follow, we’ll walk through a real-life scenario that occurred in my backyard.

What is a French Drain?

A French drain is essentially a lengthy trench excavated into the earth and filled with gravel that is used to divert water away from a certain region and transport it to another location. An agricultural drainage pipe (slotted Ag agricultural drainage pipe or “slotted Ag Pipes”) can be installed at the bottom of a French drain to increase drainage and speed the removal of water from the soil. A classic example is the usage of French drains to divert water away from the foundations of buildings or to serve as an exit for the waste water produced by septic tanks, dispersing the water over a vast area so that it can soak into the earth.

Allow me to share with you an actual real-life example of design and construction in the future.

How a French Drain Works and How to Build One

The rearmost area of my backyard, with the back fence in the backdrop, is depicted in the photo below. The terrain is sloping, with the highest point of elevation at the back of the property and the lowest point at the front of the home. Now, in order to clarify the problem. When it rains, the blue arrows indicate the direction in which the water flows. It basically flows over the concrete area in the photo, down the concrete stairs, down the walkway at the side of the house, and then down the driveway, by which time it has traveled more than thirty metres to the footpath, where it empties into the stormwater collection system.

  • First and foremost, there is one additional consideration that must be taken into account.
  • Trickle irrigation is used in all of these pots, and after the watering is finished, the water (which contains nutrients from the soil in the pots) drains from the bottoms of the pots down the slope and into the stormwater system.
  • If we get back to the subject of rainfall, the tiny area that we are concerned with here has a surface area of around 3.5m x 2.5m = 8.75 square meters.
  • As a result of our relatively dry environment, we receive around 700mm of rainfall each year in Melbourne, which equates to approximately 700 gallons of water for every square metre of surface.
  • If we look at it again, and do the arithmetic, we find that it absorbs 700mm by 8.75 square meters, or 6175 litres, in rainfall alone (not including irrigation run-off from the pots).

And now comes the question: would it be better to have the 6000 gallons of rainfall diverted in my garden, or would it be better to have it wash down the gutter into the stormwater drain? Unless you live in a swamp, the decision is straightforward! So let’s get started on the construction!

Step 1. Mark the concrete for the cut

Cutting concrete is a dusty and filthy endeavor, so it’s advisable to draw a line where you want to make the cut before you start cutting. The position of the cut is indicated by the dashed red line in the image below. In this example, I built the trench 15cm (6″) broad to show how you may do it. The typical way for marking the cut is to use a chalk line, which is a type of builder’s marking tool. A chalk line and a bottle of “chalk” are seen in the illustration below. Although it’s not truly chalk, it’s referred to as such, and it comes in two varieties: temporary (washes off with water) and permanent (never comes off!).

Chalk is also available in a variety of colors, so choose something that you can see well!

Draw the tight string upwards like the string of an archery bow and release it so that it meets the ground with a strong “snap,” marking the line with chalk on the concrete surface.

I already had a chalk line, so I utilized it to mark the line; it just took a few seconds to complete.

Step 2. Cut the concrete

This is the difficult and messy stage of the process. The use of a demolition saw is the most professional way of cutting concrete. It’s similar to a large chainsaw engine with a large cutting disk, and it’s used to cut doors and windows into concrete walls and other similar materials like that. They may do a wet cut by putting water into the cutter in order to limit the dust production. Because these large brutes are normally hired, and because they may be rather expensive, you wouldn’t want to engage one for a relatively minor task.

  • In case you were wondering, this is what a demolition saw looks like.
  • Here’s an example, which you can see below.
  • It will also generate a tremendous amount of dust (powdered concrete), and if you think it can’t possibly be that horrible, let me assure you that you have never seen this much grit and dust in your life!
  • It goes without saying that safety eyewear, hearing protection, and a respirator are all necessary.
  • If you want a clean, straight cut, you’ll just need to utilize these two monsters.
  • Using a club hammer and cold chisel, then prying out the chunks with a wrecking bar will work, but it will be more labor-intensive, but it will be clean.

It is my assurance that once you have finished cutting the concrete, you will begin to question why we ever decided to cover all of the areas where we live with this godforsaken stuff.

Step 3. Lay drainage pipe (optional) and fill trench with gravel

In any case, after all of the drama and excitement, you should have a trench that is nice and straight. Simply dig out the shattered pieces of concrete and the surrounding dirt until the appropriate depth is reached. I excavated mine to a depth of 15cm (6″) to provide a good foundation. You can then lay in the slotted Ag pipe (agricultural drainage pipe) and then fill the trench with gravel, or you can leave the pipe out and simply fill the trench with gravel. Alternatively, Ag pipe (shown below) is extremely beneficial for drainage; use it if you believe you will need it; it is inexpensive and will allow you to use less gravel when filling the trench with gravel.

Using a flat piece of wood, a spade, or the back of a rake, level the gravel once it has been laid in place.

The Results

This is the final French drain, which is not particularly eye-catching but is really functional. With the blue arrows, we can observe how water is diverted sideways down a trench, as we did previously with a similar flow diagram. A closer look of the French drain may be seen here. It goes without saying that the ends of the drain must go somewhere! The right-hand side of the picture runs beneath one of the mulched walks and into the garden beds, as can be seen here. The blue arrows indicate the direction of water flow into the plant beds.

In conclusion, I will admit that cutting the concrete with an angle grinder was a complete nightmare, but it was well worth it when I think that the garden will receive an additional 6000 litres of water each year as a result of this minor bit of labor.

Furthermore, just because we are unable to dig swales in urban permaculture settings does not rule out the possibility of incorporating the same concepts in novel ways.

Do you want a French drain that has a more attractive appearance?

See how this French drain appears when it is planted up in my articleLawn Alternatives – Creeping Thyme to get a better idea of what it looks like.

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