How To Build A Conventional Septic Tank In The Ground? (Best solution)

  • Step 1: Do Your Research. … Step 2: Determine Soil Drainage/Absorption. … Step 3: Locate Underground Utilities. … Step 4: Dig Drain Field Trenches. … Step 5: Add Gravel and Perforated Pipe. … Step 6: Add More Gravel. How deep should a septic tank be? between 4 inches and 4

How deep should a septic tank be in the ground?

The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.

How does a conventional septic system work?

In a conventional septic system, the majority of treatment occurs in the drainfield. Waste water flows from the tank through a solid pipe into a distribution box, where it is then channeled into perforated pipes set in trenches of gravel. The water slowly seeps into the underlying soil in the drainfield.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

What is the alternative to a septic tank?

Mound systems work well as alternatives to septic tanks when the soil around your home or building is too dense or too shallow or when the water table is too high. Although they are more expensive and require more maintenance than conventional systems, mound systems are a common alternative.

How do you bury a septic tank?

In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.

How deep are drain fields buried?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

How do you find a buried septic tank?

Tips for locating your septic tank

  1. If the septic tank lid is underground, you can use a metal detector to locate it.
  2. You can use a flushable transmitter that is flushed in the toilet and then the transmitter is tracked with a receiver.

Does shower water go into septic tank?

From your house to the tank: Most, but not all, septic systems operate via gravity to the septic tank. Each time a toilet is flushed, water is turned on or you take a shower, the water and waste flows via gravity through the plumbing system in your house and ends up in the septic tank.

How big of a septic tank do I need?

The larger your home, the larger the septic tank you’re going to need. For instance, a house smaller than 1,500 square feet usually requires a 750 to 1,000-gallon tank. On the other hand, a bigger home of approximately 2,500 square feet will need a bigger tank, more than the 1,000-gallon range.

How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?

How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.

What is the smallest septic tank available?

If you’re looking to install a septic system, the smallest tank size you’re likely to find is 750-gallon, which will accommodate one to two bedrooms. You can also opt for a 1,000-gallon system, which will handle two to four bedrooms.

How to Build a DIY Septic Tank System

You may install a septic tank system yourself to save money on the costs of hiring a professional septic designer and digger, which can add up quickly. Even if you design your own DIY septic tank and drainage system from scratch, the cost of installing a new septic system is high. Although it is possible to save money by establishing your own septic tank system, it is not recommended.

Costs of a DIY Septic System

The connection of a waste disposal system to a septic tank is critical for the health and cleanliness of the community. The installation of a septic system will be required if your property is located in an area where there is already no underground sewerage system. The public health fees for permits to construct a septic tank system are determined mostly by the county in which you live, but you will almost certainly be unable to avoid paying the permit charge. In order to establish the retail prices of yourDIY septic system design, which includes the drain field, distribution box, and pipes, you must first determine the price of the building supplies.

When shopping for hardware and home improvement supplies, compare prices amongst different establishments.

On top of that, you’ll have to consider about the excavation as well.

Before You Start Digging

Before you begin the actual building work, it is generally a good idea to do a thorough assessment of the situation. Get yourself a scale map of your home and property before you get your shovel out and start digging about in the dirt. The backyard, below the garage, or any side of the house that is near to a roadway are the greatest places to install a household septic system. The position of the septic system must be determined before any digging can begin. This is a very important phase in the process.

When installing a tank, it is vital that it is done right the first time.

The Site Evaluation

In most jurisdictions, the old perc test has been replaced by a site evaluation as a means of demonstrating to your local health authority the treatment characteristics of your property’s infrastructure.

DIY Perc Testing

In the past, the perc test was performed by simply dumping a pail of water into a tiny hole in the ground and then timed how quickly the water soaked into the soil with a stop-watch. The site inspection is carried out at the bottom of a 6-foot-deep trench. Unlike the perc test, which only measures the absorption speed of a small section of the property, the site evaluation measures the absorption speed of a much larger region over the soil face.

Soil Classification

The Soil Conservation Classification System of the United States Department of Agriculture is the soil classification system that is utilized in practically all states in the United States today.

As you continue to examine down into the earth, you will see that most soil testing pits include three or more different types of soil.

Drainfield Trench Size

This does not affect the size of the drainfield, which is independent of the number of bathrooms or fixtures on the property. Almost all health departments employ the following methods to determine the flow rate:

  • An individual’s residence’s total number of bedrooms The amount of persons that are present in the residence
  • Water use on a daily basis

The volume of sewage that must be discharged into the drainfield is determined by the flow rate. Once you have determined the kind of soil under your prospective drainfield, use the table shown here to calculate the drainfield area necessary for your house size, and you will have the drainfield size you require.

Size of The Septic Tank

The size of a septic tank construction is decided by the number of people living in the home or on the land for which it is being built. Consult the metric standards for the area in which the construction is to take place before proceeding. This is the most accurate method of determining the amount of septic tank you should use when constructing your own septic tank system. The size of your DIY septic system will also decide how frequently you will need to have your DIY septic system pumped by a professional septic pumping service, which will be determined by the size of your septic system.

Creating the Drawings

Before we can begin construction on our septic system, we must first develop the necessary designs to fulfill the requirements of your local health authority. Your DIY septic system designs may need to be more detailed than you think they need be, depending on your state’s requirements. All structures, pathways, property borders, retaining walls, and the position of the original test holes, on the other hand, must be clearly depicted.

Drainfield Layout

Your drainfield plan will necessitate the construction of a minimum of two ditches of similar size. The division of the water flow into two, three, or more lines is performed by using a distribution box, also known as a D-box, to split the flow. It is used in the distribution box to distribute water through pipes that include flow control valves in the form of eccentric plugs that distribute the water evenly across several drain lines. The effluent must travel downhill from the tank outlet, past the distribution box, and down the individual trenches before being disposed of.

Apply for a Building Permit

Now that you have the drawing, you should submit your ideas to the local health department’s office for consideration. You will be required to complete an application form as well as pay the applicable permission cost. Following that, you will need to wait for the designs to be examined and authorized by the board of directors before moving on to the final construction phase of the project.

Building a Septic Tank System

To begin the construction process, the first step is to sketch up a rough schematic of the septic system. You’ll utilize this layout to put your construction designs into action on the ground. It is necessary to project the layout and position of all of the different components of the septic design onto the site.

Excavation of the Septic Tank System

When it comes to digging the site in order to prepare for the construction of the septic tank and drain lines, it is important to pay close attention to elevation in order to get the best possible results. The health inspector will need to inspect the job one more time after you have finished all of the excavation before you can begin backfilling.

Once you have finished all of the excavating, you will need to schedule another appointment with him for a final inspection of the job before you can begin backfilling.

Backfilling the Septic Tank System

During the building process, all of the tanks, pipelines, and vaults should be backfilled around the perimeter. Your local authority may mandate that all tanks be subjected to vacuum testing, pressure testing, or water testing. Aside from that, an increasing number of counties are demanding leak testing of the tank these days. Consequently, the final backfilling of the concrete tanks can be delayed until after the final inspection to check for leaks has been completed. The final backfilling should not be completed until after the final health department inspection has been completed.

External References

  • How to Build a Septic Tank (mightyguide.net)
  • How to Build Septic Tank Systems (eco-nomic.com)
  • How to Build a Septic Tank System (eco-nomic.com)
  • How to Build a Septic Tank (mightyguide.net)
  • A Septic Tank: A Step-by-Step Guide (ehow.com)

Septic Tank Installation and Pricing

To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. Although it is possible to construct a septic tank on your own, we recommend that you hire a professional to do it owing to the amount of skill and specific equipment required.

Who Needs a Septic Tank?

For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.

How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.

Receive Multiple Estimates

Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.

Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit

For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.

Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test. Prior to acquiring the land that you want to utilize for residential purposes, we recommend that you obtain a soil test.

Plan for Excavation

Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home. Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected.

The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank

There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.

Percolation Test

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Building Permit Application

A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.

Excavation and Installation

When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.

Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.

Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.

It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land. The average cost of these systems is roughly $8,000.

Types of Septic Tanks

  • Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000
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More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.

Using Your Septic Tank

It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.

Send an email to our Reviews Team [email protected] if you have any comments or questions regarding this post.

Types of Septic Systems

Septic system design and size can differ significantly from one neighborhood to the next, as well as throughout the country, due to a variety of variables. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, closeness to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all considerations to take into consideration. The following are 10 of the most often encountered septic system configurations. It should be noted that this is not an exhaustive list; there are several additional types of septic systems.

  • Septic Tank, Conventional System, Chamber System, Drip Distribution System, Aerobic Treatment Unit, Mound Systems, Recirculating Sand Filter System, Evapotranspiration System, Constructed Wetland System, Cluster / Community System, etc.

Septic Tank

This tank is underground and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for receiving and partially treating raw home sanitary wastewater. Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whereas greases and lighter solids float to the surface. The sediments are retained in the tank, while the wastewater is sent to the drainfield for further treatment and dispersion once it has been treated.

Conventional System

Septic tanks and trench or bed subsurface wastewater infiltration systems are two types of decentralized wastewater treatment systems (drainfield). When it comes to single-family homes and small businesses, a traditional septic system is the most common type of system. For decades, people have used a gravel/stone drainfield as a method of water drainage. The term is derived from the process of constructing the drainfield. A short underground trench made of stone or gravel collects wastewater from the septic tank in this configuration, which is commonly used.

Effluent filters through the stone and is further cleaned by microorganisms once it reaches the soil below the gravel/stone trench, which is located below the trench.

Chamber System

Gravelless drainfields have been regularly utilized in various states for more than 30 years and have evolved into a standard technology that has mostly replaced gravel systems. Various configurations are possible, including open-bottom chambers, pipe that has been clothed, and synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene media. Gravelless systems can be constructed entirely of recycled materials, resulting in considerable reductions in carbon dioxide emissions during their lifetime. The chamber system is a type of gravelless system that can be used as an example.

The key advantage of the chamber system is the enhanced simplicity with which it can be delivered and built.

This sort of system is made up of a number of chambers that are connected to one another.

Wastewater is transported from the septic tank to the chambers through pipes. The wastewater comes into touch with the earth when it is contained within the chambers. The wastewater is treated by microbes that live on or near the soil.

Drip Distribution System

An effluent dispersal system such as the drip distribution system may be employed in a variety of drainfield configurations and is very versatile. In comparison to other distribution systems, the drip distribution system does not require a vast mound of dirt because the drip laterals are only placed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In addition to requiring a big dosage tank after the sewage treatment plant to handle scheduled dose delivery of wastewater to drip absorption areas, the drip distribution system has one major disadvantage: it is more expensive.

Aerobic Treatment Unit

Aerobic Treatment Units (ATUs) are small-scale wastewater treatment facilities that employ many of the same procedures as a municipal sewage plant. An aerobic system adds oxygen to the treatment tank using a pump. When there is an increase in oxygen in the system, there is an increase in natural bacterial activity, which then offers extra treatment for nutrients in the effluent. It is possible that certain aerobic systems may additionally include a pretreatment tank as well as a final treatment tank that will include disinfection in order to further lower pathogen levels.

ATUs should be maintained on a regular basis during their service life.

Mound Systems

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock might be a good alternative. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was erected. The effluent from the septic tank runs into a pump chamber, where it is pumped to the mound in the amounts recommended. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it continues to be treated. However, while mound systems can be an effective solution for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular care.

Recirculating Sand Filter System

Sand filter systems can be built either above or below ground, depending on the use. The effluent is discharged from the septic tank into a pump compartment. Afterwards, it is pushed into the sand filter. The sand filter is often made of PVC or a concrete box that is filled with a sand-like substance. The effluent is pushed through the pipes at the top of the filter under low pressure to the drain. As the effluent exits the pipelines, it is treated as it passes through the sand filtering system.

However, sand filters are more costly than a standard septic system because they provide a higher level of nutrient treatment and are thus better suited for areas with high water tables or that are adjacent to bodies of water.

Evapotranspiration System

Evaporative cooling systems feature drainfields that are one-of-a-kind. It is necessary to line the drainfield at the base of the evapotranspiration system with a waterproof material. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the atmosphere. At the same time, the sewage never filters into the soil and never enters groundwater, unlike other septic system designs. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are effective. The environment must be desert, with plenty of heat and sunshine, and no precipitation.

Constructed Wetland System

Construction of a manufactured wetland is intended to simulate the treatment processes that occur in natural wetland areas. Wastewater goes from the septic tank and into the wetland cell, where it is treated. Afterwards, the wastewater goes into the media, where it is cleaned by microorganisms, plants, and other media that eliminate pathogens and nutrients. Typically, a wetland cell is constructed with an impermeable liner, gravel and sand fill, and the necessary wetland plants, all of which must be capable of withstanding the constant saturation of the surrounding environment.

As wastewater travels through the wetland, it may escape the wetland and flow onto a drainfield, where it will undergo more wastewater treatment before being absorbed into the soil by bacteria.

Cluster / Community System

In certain cases, a decentralized wastewater treatment system is owned by a group of people and is responsible for collecting wastewater from two or more residences or buildings and transporting it to a treatment and dispersal system placed on a suitable location near the dwellings or buildings. Cluster systems are widespread in settings like rural subdivisions, where they may be found in large numbers.

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Prior to discharging wastewater into the environment, several alternative systems are designed to evaporate or disinfect the effluent.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

  1. Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are typically found in rural locations that lack access to centralized sewage systems. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-proven technology. One of the most common types of wastewater treatment systems is comprised of two parts: the septic tank and the drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic materials and extract floatable substances (such as oils and grease) and solids from the wastewater. These systems discharge the liquid (referred to as effluent) from the septic tank into a series of perforated pipes buried in the soil or into chambers or other specific devices designed to gently release the effluent into the soil over time. Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, and phosphorus, among other contaminants. Prior to discharging wastewater into the environment, several alternative systems are designed to evaporate or disinfect the waste.

The Guadalupe-Blanco River Authority has built an animated, interactive model of how a residential septic system works, which you can view here.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system. If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

  • You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

  • Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
  • Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
  • Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

  • Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
  • It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement
  • A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield

How to Install a Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.

However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.

Steps

  1. 1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.
  • The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:
  • Available space
  • Terrain
  • Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
  • Location of the well and/or nearby wells
  • And other factors.
  • The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:
  • The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
  • The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  • And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  1. 2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement

Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

  1. 1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:
  • Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
  • A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
  • A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
  • PVC primer and adhesive
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
  • Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
  • The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
  • Shovel
  • Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
  • Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
  • Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
  • Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
  • Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
  • A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
  • A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
  • And a septic tank.
  • 2 Determine the location of the entrance to the building in relation to the location of the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.
  • The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.
  • Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
  • Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.
  • 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the desired depth
  • Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.
  1. 4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
  2. Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement
  1. A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.
  • Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.
  1. Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement
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  • Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
  • It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
  • Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
  • Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

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  • The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
  • And

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  • Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe point downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on the inside of the pipe. A glue joint is used to join all portions of the perforated pipe, and the ends of each leach line are sealed. When waste water enters the pipe in this manner, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, using the whole leach field.

In order to prevent diseases (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment, the water must first be treated by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection).

It is best to check with your local health authority to discover if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

Things You’ll Need

  • The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
  • PVC pipe with perforations
  • Material for embedding
  • PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
  • Course file
  • Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.

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Next Modular may assist you in saving money on your new house construction project. One approach to accomplish this is to provide you with the option of completing the construction yourself. Construction of the foundation and installation of your new modular home will be handled by our firm. After that, you may do the rest of the construction yourself or contract out the work to a local business of your choosing. In order to assist you in your preparations, we are putting together a series of articles that will provide you with the fundamental knowledge you need to proceed with the following phases once the house has been built.

What Are the Different Types of Septic Systems?

There are five main types of septic systems, which implies that the techniques of installation varies from one another.

1. Conventional Septic Systems

The tank and gravel drainfield that are used in conventional septic systems are shown in the illustration. Wastewater is transported from the home to the tank and finally to the drainfield through pipes. During the treatment process, bacteria in the soil treat the water as it runs into the drainfield. The wastewater treatment tank breaks down the wastewater.

2. Chamber Systems

A chamber septic system is comparable to a regular septic system in that it has a chamber. The pipelines, on the other hand, direct the water into “chambers” of soil rather than into gravel.

3. Aerobic Septic Systems

An aerobic septic system treats water in a high-powered manner, allowing for a smaller drainfield to be used in conjunction with it. Because the addition of oxygen assists in bacterial treatment, aerobic systems are an excellent alternative for houses with high water tables or poor soil.

4. Drip Distribution

Using a drip distribution system, wastewater is released into the ground one drop at a time. A second septic tank regulates the rate at which the water drops and is processed for treatment.

5. Mound Septic Systems

A mound septic system is characterized by the discharge of wastewater into a mound of sand located near the dwelling. Mound systems need additional upkeep, although they are beneficial in areas where the soil level is low.

Steps for Installing a Septic System

Because each septic system is done slightly differently, it would be difficult for us to provide you with a step-by-step guide on how to install each system. Having said that, there are some parallels between the general process of installing a septic system and the process of installing a toilet.

1. Site Prep

To begin, you must assess the site’s size, soil type, water table, and other factors in order to determine which sort of septic system would work best for you. This may need the use of a PERC test to determine soil absorption rates. In order to obtain further information about testing requirements in your county, you should contact your local health department.

2. Health Approval

After determining the size and shape of the site as well as the soil and water table, you may choose which sort of septic system will work best for your needs.

In order to determine soil absorption rates, a PERC test may be required. In order to obtain further information about testing requirements in your county, you should contact the local health department.

3. Excavation

Once you have acquired approval from the appropriate authorities, you may begin digging the site in preparation for the installation of the system. To ensure that the pipe-to-distance ratio is accurate during excavation, a great deal of measurement and drilling is required. You’ll need to dig a hole that’s big enough to accommodate the tank’s weight comfortably.

4. Installation

It is critical that you do not enter the installation without doing your research first. That is, don’t just start digging holes and laying pipes on the ground at random. Consult with a professional septic system firm for guidance, or conduct your own study online to find out more.

5. Final Inspection

Having your work professionally inspected once it has been done is a smart idea. This assures that everything is up to safety requirements and that you won’t encounter any unforeseen problems while working on the project.

6. Coverup

Cover everything up again, clean everything up, and take pleasure in your money-saving labor of love!

Additional Tips for Septic System Maintenance

While it is critical that your septic system be installed correctly, it is also critical that you maintain it properly. Good septic system maintenance extends the system’s life expectancy, allowing you to save money by avoiding the need for an early replacement.

1. Schedule routine maintenance and cleaning.

Maintaining your septic system with the help of a professional is essential in preventing minor issues from becoming major issues down the road. Regular maintenance, such as septic tank pumping and tune-ups, should be scheduled on an annual or biannual basis (depending on the tank capacity).

2. Be careful what you flush.

If it is not toilet paper, do not flush it down the toilet. Paper towels, napkins, baby wipes, diapers, and feminine products are all items that should be disposed of in the trash rather than in the toilet. Septic pipes can get clogged and even rupture as a result of foreign materials.

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3. Keep your eyes and ears open.

Check the condition of your septic system on a regular basis to ensure that everything is working smoothly. If you see anything unusual, you should contact a specialist as soon as you can.

4. Take care of the drainfield.

Check the condition of your septic system on a regular basis to ensure that everything is operating properly. You should contact a specialist as soon as you see anything out of the norm.

Conventional Septic System Design Basics

7:19 p.m. on August 7, 2020 When it comes to wastewater systems, many of us take them for granted, especially when we’ve become accustomed to being a part of a municipal sewer system. Some residences, however, are too far away from sewage lines to be able to dispose of wastewater in this manner, necessitating the installation of a septic system. When constructing a new house in Texas, it is essential to have a properly designed septic system. Listed below are the considerations you should make while designing a system that will efficiently handle your garbage.

Tank

7:19 p.m. on August 7, 2020. Especially if we’re accustomed to being part of a municipal sewer system, many of us take our wastewater systems for granted. The installation of a septic system is required in some areas because some residences are too far away from sewage lines to dispose of wastewater this way.

The right design of a septic system in Texas is essential when building a new house. Take into consideration the following points while designing a system that will effectively manage your garbage.

Drain field

When planning your drain field (also known as a leach field), you’ll want to think about the location, if the earth is adequate, and how you’ll trench the area. The placement of your drain field, like the site of your septic tank, will be determined by your city’s or county’s unique construction standards, so consult with them before deciding where to put your drain field. Irrespective of whether or not the soil is appropriate for a septic system installation, the system’s effectiveness is dependent on its ability to move wastewater through it quickly enough to avoid it into the groundwater supply.

  1. Finally, the drain field trench is typically two or three feet wide, 18″ to 30″ deep, and is laid with perforated pipe as well as gravel to complete the installation.
  2. You should not go alone with your septic system design in Texas if you are unsure of how to proceed.
  3. Countryside Construction Inc.
  4. Contact us now.
  5. Septic Services is where you’ll find us.

What Is an Alternative Septic System? 7 Alternatives to Conventional Septic Tanks

Finally, the opportunity has arisen for you to put in place a septic system on your property. You had initially intended on installing a normal septic tank and leach field, but what about the forest preserve near your home? What do you do about that? Will a standard septic tank harm the watershed in question? When you’re researching a septic tank, you’ll recall that when you were developing your property, you came into problems with bedrock beneath the top of the soil. What if your property’s soil is too shallow to allow you to dig down far enough to install a conventional septic tank?

What are Alternative Septic Systems?

In the context of alternative septic systems, any sort of building wastewater (also known as “effluent”) drainage system that differs from the traditional septic tank is considered to be such. Diverting and cleaning water waste from your house is not limited to the use of a typical septic system; there are many more options available to safely reintroduce it back into the environment! You will learn the following things from this blog post:

  • Identifying the reasons why some properties require alternate septic systems
  • Alternative septic systems come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The operation of each sort of system

Why Do People Want Alternatives to Septic Tanks?

Just though traditional septic systems are commonplace does not imply that they are appropriate for every property or situation. There are a variety of reasons why the conventional model for wastewater sanitation does not always meet the needs of the community. For example, some parcels of property contain bedrock that is too close to the surface of the soil, making it difficult to build a septic tank deep enough to be effective. A large number of inhabitants in the United States also live near bodies of water that are particularly vulnerable to water contamination, which means that the normal technique of sanitation in septic tanks is insufficient to preserve the ecology of the region in question.

  • The term “perking” refers to the soil’s capacity to absorb and hold onto water.
  • Repairing a sewer pipe Fortunately, you may have your septic system or sewage line repaired before you break ground on your new system.
  • Never fear if your perc test does not go as planned, or if you have any additional worries about installing a traditional septic system on your land.
  • Each of the alternative septic systems that you will come across in this blog article has a distinct amount of upkeep that is necessary.

Additionally, the cost of alternative septic systems varies depending on the equipment and upkeep that is required. Discover alternative septic solutions that may be a better fit for your property than a standard system by continuing reading.

Types of alternative septic systems

In situations when the soil surrounding your house or structure is too dense or too shallow, or when the water table is too high, mound systems are a good option to septic tanks to consider. Mound systems are a popular alternative to traditional systems, despite the fact that they are more expensive and require more care. They are above-ground systems that are covered with topsoil and incorporate an additional component known as a pump chamber, which separates effluent from the scum and sludge in the first septic tank before it is discharged into the environment.

Pressurized Dosing

When using a pressurized dosing system, you may deliver effluent onto the leach field in more uniform, calibrated dosages (just as the system’s name implies!). Because of the measured technique of dispersing wastewater, this strategy can be particularly beneficial for repairing a leach field following a septic system failure. Given that this approach is simply concerned with the dissemination of effluent into the soil, pressure dosing can be used in conjunction with any of the water treatment systems listed below.

Plastic Chamber Leach Field

Plasti-chamber leach fields are an excellent alternative to traditional septic systems for small lots and sites with high or fluctuating groundwater tables. Plastic chambers in the shape of half pipes are installed in the leach field to replace the gravel and create a gap for wastewater to flow through. Designed in the shape of a half moon, the plastic chambers are placed in the soil with the open side facing down, allowing effluent to come into touch with the soil underneath them, purifying the water and allowing it to flow back into the ground.

Sand Filter

Sand filter septic systems, as the name implies, cleanse and eliminate pollutants from wastewater through the use of sand filters. The sand filter system, which is similar to the aerobic treatment method described above, includes oxygen into its system in order to filter out germs. This cleansing takes place in an enclosed chamber that may either be erected above or below ground level depending on the situation. This is an example of an alternative septic system that does not require the use of a leach field, making it suitable for use in ecologically sensitive locations.

Aerobic Treatment System

Through the use of an air pump, which draws fresh air from the surrounding environment into the treatment tank, an aerobic treatment system introduces oxygen into the septic tank. It is believed that the increased oxygen aids in the cleaning of the effluent by increasing natural bacterial activity. As explained by the Environmental Protection Agency, aerobic treatment systems use the same technology as large-scale sewage treatment facilities, but on a smaller scale.

This is yet another excellent alternative septic system for tiny lots, lots with inadequate soil conditions, and lots located near bodies of water that are sensitive to pollutant runoff.

Drip Distribution/Irrigation

The drip distribution method disperses treated septic water over a larger area of land than the conventional method. To “irrigate” the leach field, instead of using a single PVC pipe to disseminate treated water into the leach field, the drip distribution technique makes use of a length of flexible tubing that is wound around itself and releases tiny increments of water all the way along its length. With this procedure, newer technology also enables for the discharge of water to be timed and regulated.

It is possible that power interruptions will make these alternative septic solutions more difficult to maintain than traditional systems.

Constructed Wetland System

The designed wetland system makes use of wetland plants to help your septic system filter waste by performing some of the filtration job. While the water waste from your home or building still passes through a single septic tank, the cleaned water is then sent to a plot of wetland that has a variety of various types of pebbles and grasses. Following that first stage of filtration, the water is channeled into a drain field, where it is discharged back into the soil, exactly as it would be with a traditional system.

  • Take into consideration the land on your property as well as the surrounding surroundings while deciding which system is best for your needs.
  • Finally, the opportunity has arisen for you to put in place a septic system on your property.
  • What do you do about that?
  • When you’re researching a septic tank, you’ll recall that when you were developing your property, you came into problems with bedrock beneath the top of the soil.
  • Fortunately, there are numerous different types of alternative septic systems that are designed specifically for situations like the ones described above.

What are Alternative Septic Systems?

In the context of alternative septic systems, any sort of building wastewater (also known as “effluent”) drainage system that differs from the traditional septic tank is considered to be such. Diverting and cleaning water waste from your house is not limited to the use of a typical septic system; there are many more options available to safely reintroduce it back into the environment! You will learn the following things from this blog post:

  • Identifying the reasons why some properties require alternate septic systems
  • Alternative septic systems come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The operation of each sort of system

Why Do People Want Alternatives to Septic Tanks?

Just though traditional septic systems are commonplace does not imply that they are appropriate for every property or situation. There are a variety of reasons why the conventional model for wastewater sanitation does not always meet the needs of the community. For example, some parcels of property contain bedrock that is too close to the surface of the soil, making it difficult to build a septic tank deep enough to be effective. A large number of inhabitants in the United States also live near bodies of water that are particularly vulnerable to water contamination, which means that the normal technique of sanitation in septic tanks is insufficient to preserve the ecology of the region in question.

  • The term “perking” refers to the soil’s capacity to absorb and hold onto water.
  • Repairing a sewer pipe Fortunately, you may have your septic system or sewage line repaired before you break ground on your new system.
  • Never fear if your perc test does not go as planned, or if you have any additional worries about installing a traditional septic system on your land.
  • Each of the alternative septic systems that you will come across in this blog article has a distinct amount of upkeep that is necessary.

Additionally, the cost of alternative septic systems varies depending on the equipment and upkeep that is required. Discover alternative septic solutions that may be a better fit for your property than a standard system by continuing reading.

Types of alternative septic systems

In situations when the soil surrounding your house or structure is too dense or too shallow, or when the water table is too high, mound systems are a good option to septic tanks to consider. Mound systems are a popular alternative to traditional systems, despite the fact that they are more expensive and require more care. They are above-ground systems that are covered with topsoil and incorporate an additional component known as a pump chamber, which separates effluent from the scum and sludge in the first septic tank before it is discharged into the environment.

Pressurized Dosing

When using a pressurized dosing system, you may deliver effluent onto the leach field in more uniform, calibrated dosages (just as the system’s name implies!). Because of the measured technique of dispersing wastewater, this strategy can be particularly beneficial for repairing a leach field following a septic system failure. Given that this approach is simply concerned with the dissemination of effluent into the soil, pressure dosing can be used in conjunction with any of the water treatment systems listed below.

Plastic Chamber Leach Field

Plasti-chamber leach fields are an excellent alternative to traditional septic systems for small lots and sites with high or fluctuating groundwater tables. Plastic chambers in the shape of half pipes are installed in the leach field to replace the gravel and create a gap for wastewater to flow through. Designed in the shape of a half moon, the plastic chambers are placed in the soil with the open side facing down, allowing effluent to come into touch with the soil underneath them, purifying the water and allowing it to flow back into the ground.

Sand Filter

Sand filter septic systems, as the name implies, cleanse and eliminate pollutants from wastewater through the use of sand filters. The sand filter system, which is similar to the aerobic treatment method described above, includes oxygen into its system in order to filter out germs. This cleansing takes place in an enclosed chamber that may either be erected above or below ground level depending on the situation. This is an example of an alternative septic system that does not require the use of a leach field, making it suitable for use in ecologically sensitive locations.

Aerobic Treatment System

Through the use of an air pump, which draws fresh air from the surrounding environment into the treatment tank, an aerobic treatment system introduces oxygen into the septic tank. It is believed that the increased oxygen aids in the cleaning of the effluent by increasing natural bacterial activity. As explained by the Environmental Protection Agency, aerobic treatment systems use the same technology as large-scale sewage treatment facilities, but on a smaller scale.

This is yet another excellent alternative septic system for tiny lots, lots with inadequate soil conditions, and lots located near bodies of water that are sensitive to pollutant runoff.

Drip Distribution/Irrigation

The drip distribution method disperses treated septic water over a larger area of land than the conventional method. To “irrigate” the leach field, instead of using a single PVC pipe to disseminate treated water into the leach field, the drip distribution technique makes use of a length of flexible tubing that is wound around itself and releases tiny increments of water all the way along its length. With this procedure, newer technology also enables for the discharge of water to be timed and regulated.

It is possible that power interruptions will make these alternative septic solutions more difficult to maintain than traditional systems.

Constructed Wetland System

The designed wetland system makes use of wetland plants to help your septic system filter waste by performing some of the filtration job. While the water waste from your home or building still passes through a single septic tank, the cleaned water is then sent to a plot of wetland that has a variety of various types of pebbles and grasses. Following that first stage of filtration, the water is channeled into a drain field, where it is discharged back into the soil, exactly as it would be with a traditional system.

Take into consideration the land on your property as well as the surrounding surroundings while deciding which system is best for your needs.

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