How Much To Pump My 55 Gallon Septic Tank? (TOP 5 Tips)

  • The national average cost to clean and pump a septic tank is between $295 and $610 with most people spending around $375. Depending on the size of your septic tank, pumping could cost as low as $250 for a 750-gallon tank, or as high as $895 for a 1,250-gallon tank.

How often should a septic tank be pumped?

Inspect and Pump Frequently Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.

How long will a 50 gallon septic tank last?

Under normal usage septic tank lasts about 20-30 years; if the septic system is on the smaller side and/or needs to be serviced 50 or more times in its lifetime, replacement is recommended.

How long can a septic tank go without being pumped?

You can wait up to 10 years to drain your tank provided that you live alone and do not use the septic system often. You may feel like you can pump your septic tank waste less frequently to save money, but it’ll be difficult for you to know if the tank is working properly.

How much does it cost to get your tank pumped?

The typical costs for septic pumping are as follows: National average cost for a septic tank pump out: $295 -$610. Up to 750-gallon tank: $175-$300. Up to 1,000-gallon tank: $225-$400.

How do I know my septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

  1. Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
  2. Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
  3. Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
  4. You Hear Gurgling Water.
  5. You Have A Sewage Backup.
  6. How often should you empty your septic tank?

Can a septic tank never be pumped?

What Are the Consequences of Not Pumping Your Tank? If the tank is not pumped, the solids will build up in the tank and the holding capacity of the tank will be diminished. Eventually, the solids will reach the pipe that feeds into the drain field, causing a clog. Waste water backing up into the house.

How do I know if my septic field is failing?

The first signs of a failing septic system may include slow draining toilets and sinks, gurgling noises within the plumbing, sewage odors inside, continuing drainage backups, or bacteria in the well water. The area of the strongest odor will point to the location of the failure in the septic system.

How do I know if my drain field is failing?

The following are a few common signs of leach field failure:

  1. Grass over leach field is greener than the rest of the yard.
  2. The surrounding area is wet, mushy, or even has standing water.
  3. Sewage odors around drains, tank, or leach field.
  4. Slow running drains or backed up plumbing.

How can I make my septic tank last longer?

How to Keep Your Septic System Healthy

  1. How the Septic System Works.
  2. Don’t Overload the Septic Tank and Drain field.
  3. Use an Efficient Toilet.
  4. Don’t Treat the Toilet as a Garbage Disposal.
  5. Don’t Pour Grease Down the Drain.
  6. Divert Rain Water From the Septic Drain Field.
  7. Keep Trees Away from the Septic System.

Can I shower if my septic tank is full?

Only the water would get out into the leach field in a proper system unless you run too much water too fast. The thing to do is to run your shower water outside into it’s own drain area, but it may not be allowed where you are. Used to be called gray water system.

Can you get your septic pumped in the winter?

Winter is really the only season we don’t recommend pumping septic systems. Unfortunately, frozen ground, heavy snow, and slippery ice can make it extremely difficult for even our skilled technicians to properly dig up and securely cover the septic tank.

Is Ridex good for septic tanks?

How additives, like Rid-x, interfere with your septic system’s eco-system. According to the EPA and the Ohio Department of Health, not only are additives like Rid-X not recommended, but they actually have a detrimental and potentially hazardous effect on your septic system’s waste treatment process.

How long does it take to pump a septic tank?

How long does it take to pump a septic tank? A septic tank between 1,000 – 1,250 gallons in size generally takes around 20-30 minutes to empty. A larger tank (1,500 – 2,000 gallons) will take about twice as long, between 45-60 minutes.

55-gallon Barrel Septic System: 3-year update

If you go purely by the language of the Internet on the matter, it appears that you are not permitted to be a homesteader want tobe until you fantasize about building a septic system out of 55-gallon barrels. I’m not sure how often they’re really constructed compared to how frequently they’re spoken about. In the beginning, I was apprehensive to utilize one since there were so many plans, but so few long-term reviews on the Secret Lair’s website. In any case, when long-time commenter Phssthpok brought it to my attention this morning, it gave me the impetus to accomplish something I’d been intending to do for quite some time.

That said, I’ll point you that the instructions, in my opinion, include one significant error.

Before you bury the barrels, you should make sure that they are completely filled.

Mine has been in operating since sometime in 2011, and has never given me a single problem.

  1. My situation is ideal because I’m a single individual with no guests, making me the ideal test subject.
  2. I walked outside and dipped my probe into the higher tank, and my probe clunked straight to the bottom with absolutely little resistance.
  3. Everything is turning into soup fairly rapidly, and there are no solids accumulating in the pot.
  4. I recommend that anyone who is planning to build one of these take some time to learn how to lay out a leach field, because that is really the key to success.
  5. It appears to be draining properly.

About Joel

You should know better than to ask these kinds of inquiries to a paranoid recluse, you know. It was filed under Uncategorised on this particular day. This entry was posted in Uncategorized.

Homemade Septic Tank 55 Gallon Drum: DIY and Install

“This website has affiliate connections to various items. Purchases bought through these links may result in a commission being paid to us.” Septic tanks for residential use come in a variety of sizes and shapes, so you have plenty of alternatives when making your decision.

First and foremost, select a tank with the appropriate volume for your residence. The BioWonder SepticDrain Treatment is what I’m now using. After that, check to see that the tank is durable and will survive for a long time.

Essential Septic Tank Kits and Products We’ve Tested (Recommended)

Choose from the following:Do you treat waste before allowing it to seep into the ground? Homemade septic tanks are available in a variety of sizes and designs; it all depends on your preferences. Whether it is made of plastic or concrete, a well constructed Homemade Septic Tank may last anywhere from 20 to 35 years with regular care and upkeep. It may appear to be simple to construct, but it is time-consuming; yet, with the assistance of a septic tank, you may save hundreds to thousands of dollars in the process.

Homemade Septic Tank 55 Gallon Drum (Step-by-Step Checklist)

Before you begin construction on any septic system, check with the local health department and county government offices to see whether or not the site of your home is suitable for the installation of one. If you have been given permission to proceed, make a note of any prerequisites and get any permissions that would grant you the authority to begin construction. Read, understand, and adhere to the septic system specifications provided before beginning the construction process, or you may wind up having to start over from the beginning if the specifications are not satisfied.

2. Plan your site early

Keep these considerations in mind when deciding where to locate the septic tank and drain field: soil testing may be required to establish the drainage capabilities of the soil as well as the seasonal water tables of the site. The soil for the septic system must be tested and approved by the appropriate health authorities and planning boards. The depth to which the drain field pipes and the septic tank should be installed will be determined by the local health departments and planning boards.

Consider a 55-gallon drum per person every day as an example.

Always err on the side of caution and provide an extra 100 gallons each day to cater for unexpected users and guests.

Mounting Your Homemade Septic Tank Drum (Instructions)

Septic tank installation requires a hole to be dug 10 feet away from the main structure in line with the bathroom. Hire or direct someone to dig the hole. Dig up to 8 feet or more in order to have excellent gravity flow while flushing the toilet and to avoid clogging the toilet.


Immediately in front of the hole and away from the building, dig a trench approximately 2 feet depth and 10 feet long, exactly in front of the hole. This will be the leach line for your system.


Create an opening 4 inches below the top and in the side of the plastic barrel with a jigsaw so that the leach line, which is a 10-foot-long, 3-inch-diameter PVC black pipe, may be inserted. The hole should be large enough to accommodate the pipe.


Place the 55-gallon plastic barrel into the hole carefully and gently, and then insert the black PVC leach-line pipe into the barrel.

It is necessary to cover the leach line with plastic and a thick layer of cinders in addition to this. Backfill the leach line with the earth that was taken previously during the digging process.


Incorporate the 10-foot segment of solid PVC pipe from the building into the bunghole at the top of the barrel or drum to complete the installation. Cover the barrel or drum lid with plastic wrap, then backfill the leach line with the soil you removed when excavating earlier in the process. (Optional) Whether you are permitted to install this septic system on your property is entirely dependent on where you live and the state building restrictions in effect. It is impossible to tell if you may construct this septic system on your property until all of these conditions are satisfied in each of Colorado’s 63 counties, because laws change on an annual basis and rules and regulations differ from one inspector to another.

General septic system guidelines and various types of waste treatment

Every septic system is comprised of two key components: the Leach Field, which is used to dispose of liquid waste, and the Septic Tank, which is used to collect solid waste. Cesspools are equipped with a septic system that allows for the direct discharge of sewage, both liquid and solid, into a pit. When effluent leaches and evaporates down to the earth, the solids are retained in a perforated or pond tank. To dispose of effluent from septic tanks, one of seven treatment area designs might be utilized:

Leach Pits

Leach Pits are holes in the ground filled with gravel, with a perforated tank in the center for dumping wastewater into. Drywells are a passive solution that does not require the use of a pump for small or irregular lots when a long leach percolation field is not required or practicable. Leach pits have the benefit of having a large surface area surrounding their sides, which allows them to dispose of water in the appropriate soil types. Adding a dry well to your leach pit will increase the capacity of your leach pit, allowing it to handle a large amount of water at one time.

  1. Leach Fields are trenches dug in the yard that are filled with a foot of 3/4′′ — 1-1/2′′ gravel and a pipe with a diameter of around four inches.
  2. The effluent is delivered to the leach field with at least a 1/8 inch per foot drop and subsequently is dissolved into the soil with all of the leach field pipe being at the same level, according to the specifications.
  3. The sewage is discharged into this big open region underneath the yard; the whole bottom of the chamber is now accessible.
  4. Pressurized Mound Systems are often powered by an electric pump that forces effluent into raised mound systems and beds or chambers, as well as remote trenches and aeration systems.
  5. In the wastewater treatment industry, drip beds (also known as evapotranspiration) are pressured systems with small nozzles or holes for equitable dispersion of wastewater; nevertheless, they are susceptible to blockage due to calcification of the nozzles.
  6. Because of their development, plants transpire water, and part of the water inside them evaporates to the surface, with a lesser percentage of the effluent trickling down into the groundwater table.
  7. Typically, it is designated for high clay soil regions where percolation is difficult; lagoons are walled to prevent percolation in a vulnerable zone where evaporation is the sole method of disposal; and it is reserved for high clay soil areas where percolation is difficult.

Because of the legal liabilities associated with safety hazards, six-foot fence and a closed gate are the normal procedure for any cesspool or lagoon installation.


When it comes to your 55 gallon drum home-made septic tank, there are a few cautions and suggestions to keep in the back of your mind. Here: It is important to remember to include natural septic digester in your portable toilet and to avoid parking or driving your car over the temporary septic tank.

How to Construct a Small Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a modest system that is intended for limited use by two persons who do not need to do laundry.

  • When compared to a conventional house septic system, this system employs two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are utilized in a standard home septic system.
  • Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be advised that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner may be liable to a fine if the system was discovered in operation by a health official.
  • Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.
  • It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.
See also:  How Long Are Residential Septic Tank Drain Fields? (Question)

Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks

  1. 1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them lighter
  2. 2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. As soon as the flanges are in position, tighten them down so they don’t move or shift once they are in place. Advertisement
  3. s3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw and drilling them out. Advertisement

Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground

  1. 1 Dig a trench that is 4 ft 26 ft 3 ft (1.22 m 7.92 m 0.91 m) in length and width. Excavator or shovel are both good options for digging a hole in the ground where you wish to put your tank. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth.
  • Excavators for excavating are often available for hire from a heavy machinery supply company. Look for equipment rentals on the internet
  1. 2Place the drum at the end of the trench, with one side hole drilled in it. When you place the drum on the floor, make sure it is level. Check to see sure the drum’s top is at least 4 inches (10 cm) below the surface of the water. 3 Dig a hole that is one foot (30 cm) deeper than the first to accommodate the positioning of the second drum in front of the first. In order to ensure a tight fit and prevent the drum from shifting, make your hole the same diameter as the drum you’re inserting in it. 4 The hole should be leveled with gravel until a 90-degree curve can be made to connect the top drum’s hole on one side to the toilet flange on the other. Check the alignment of the holes in the 90-degree bend between the two drums by dry fitting it between the two drums. If you need to improve the alignment of the pipe line, dig the hole a little deeper. 5 To make the bend, cut 31 2in (8.9 cm) pieces of ABS pipe and adhere them to the bend with epoxy or hot glue. With a hacksaw, cut the ABSpipe parts, also known as nipples. 6 Insert the pieces into the bend and hold them in place using PVC adhesive. Check the fit between the two drums to ensure that they are in alignment. Insert the end of the 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipple into the side hole of the first drum and tighten the nut. 7Glue the end of the 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple into the toilet flange on the second tank, making sure that the nipple on the other end aligns with the hole on the top of the second drum. To hold the bent in place, apply PVC adhesive to the inside of the curve. Don’t be concerned about the link to the first drum just yet
  2. You’ll make that connection later. 8. Glue a Y-bend to a 31 2in (8.9 cm) nipple, and then bend the angled piece of the Y-bend at a 45-degree angle. Using your PVC adhesive, attach a nipple to the end of the Y-bend and let it dry. Assemble the Y-bend and align the angled pipe on it so it meets the incoming waste line, then glue it onto the toilet flange. 9 21 2in (6.4 cm) nipples are cut and glued to one end of the 45-degree bends at the bottom of the lower drum, and they are then inserted into the side of the lower drum. Directional bends are defined as those that are perpendicular to the bottom of the trench at their ends. Advertisement

Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes

  1. Put a stake into the ground and level it with the bottom of each of the 45-degree bends. 2Put a stake into the ground and level it with the top of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what sort of stakes you use since they all work. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the stakes into the ground. Attach a one-inch-wide block to the end of a four-foot-long (1.2-meter-long) level using duct tape. This will assist you in ensuring that you create sloped drain pipes so that your tanks can empty
  2. 3Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
  3. 4Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
  4. 5Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one. Drive the stake down until it is the same height as the first one using your hammer or mallet
  5. 4 Place the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second stake to complete the level without the block. Continue to pound the second stake into the ground until the level is balanced. 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the previous post, or 1 inch (0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm)
  6. 5Repeat this method until you have stakes running the whole length of the trench
  7. Continue to place stakes down the rest of the trench every 37 8feet (1.2 m) from the last one, ensuring that the stakes slope away from the drums
  8. 6Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes
  9. 7Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes The gravel will now slope away from the drums at a rate of 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance
  10. 7Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the second drum
  11. 8Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the third drum
  12. 9Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the fourth drum
  13. 10P Insert the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower drum to complete the installation. 9Make certain that the perforations in the pipes are facing down so that liquids may soak back into the earth
  14. 8checking the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1 4in (0.64 cm) slope is consistent throughout the length of the pipe. Fill up any gaps in the slope by adding or removing gravel under the pipe. Seal the 45-degree and 90-degree bends that connect the lower and top drums, respectively, with silicone. For the greatest seal possible on your drain pipes, use a two-part epoxy or silicone caulk. For this purpose, consider utilizing flex pipe, which will yield a little bit if the ground changes. Tenth, fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of all the gravel. Place the remaining gravel over the trench and into the bottom drum, covering it completely. 11Lay landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. As a result, the dirt will not be able to seep into the gravel and you will be able to keep proper drainage on your tanks
  15. 12Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting it to the original grade. When you have finished filling up the area with your dirt, check to see that the ground is level. 13Fill the upper drum with water, leaving the top pipe from the first tank exposed so that you can readily reach the tanks if you need to drain them later. 14Fill the lower drum with water. Fill the top drum with water and pour it directly down the exposed pipes on the bottom drum. Continue filling the drum until it is completely filled, then secure the top with a cap to keep out the elements. Advertisement

Community Q A

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  • Question What is considered a low level of use? Low consumption is defined as less than 125 gallons per day. Question Was the ‘y’ elbow on the first tank’s tank for any particular reason? Is it left open or sealed when it has been completed? Isn’t it going to stink if it’s left open? The clean out requires a threaded cap or plug, which is provided. Question What kind of water do you use to fill it? “Fill” is the most important term here. Continue to fill the drum with water until the level does not rise any more
  • Question Suppose I neglected to attach a slip coupler to the perforated pipe and only had 10 feet of it. Is it still possible to use this? Yes, however you will need to raise the depth of the field in order to get the same cubic feet of capacity
  • Nevertheless Question What is the best way to find out if something is legal in my state? This is a quick and easy approach that is unlikely to be appropriate for long-term usage in the majority of states. It is possible that the property owner and/or the installation will be penalized if this is uncovered. Question Is it possible to utilize two or three 275-gallon water totes instead, or a water tote and barrel combination? It doesn’t matter either direction you go. It’s best to utilize a single tote and a barrel as a digestion tank and a distribution box if you have only one tote. Question What is the purpose of filling the higher barrel with water? You fill the top barrel with water so that when sewage waste is introduced into the barrel, it flows into a sufficient amount of water to initiate the anaerobic digestion process. Question What is the best way to clean up this system? If there is enough bacteria in it, it will clean itself with minimal effort. If it starts to fill up, you may call a septic service to have it emptied
  • If it doesn’t, you can do it yourself. Question What is the correct grade slope of the drain field for every ten feet of length of the drain field? It is possible for the field’s bottom to be level. When running away from the drums, the pipe system should be sloped at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches every 10 feet. Question Is it possible for this system to freeze in the winter? And might I use antifreeze in the mix as well? Antifreeze will destroy the beneficial bacteria that are required for the process to function properly. The process is biological, and it will generate some of its own heat as part of the process. It’s always possible to dig a little deeper to gain a little extra insulation above it.

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  • The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line
  • Instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connection. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than the top. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is several inches deeper towards the bottom. Solids either float or sink depending on their density. They don’t seem to congregate in the middle. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank, and the solids are never seen again. The same procedure should be followed for each of the drainage pipes that originate from the second barrel. Just to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global drain field, the waste is dumped into the first tank, with the solids settling to the bottom of the first tank. Whenever the liquid level exceeds the outfall to the second tank, it is drained into the tank below it. If there are any solids present, they will sink to the bottom. Whenever the liquid from the second tank reaches one of the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion. Over time, the vast majority of the solids will liquefy and disperse. Solids may accumulate at the top of the tank after many years, necessitating the removal of the solids. Thirty percent of the waste is absorbed into the earth, with the remaining seventy percent being dissipated by sunshine. It is important not to compress the soil since this would interfere with the evaporation process
  • The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank after it is entirely filled with solids
  • The depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one depicted, you will need to dig the trench deeper or shallower to suit the new line depth or height. It’s not that difficult to find out. In the event that you have a septic system that is too shallow, it may be more susceptible to damage. After a period, you may discover that the ground has sunk below the trench’s location. Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it
  • It is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipe. In addition, you must have the necessary tools to dig the trench (or be ready to put in a lot of effort).
See also:  How To Maintain A Healthy Septic Tank? (Solution)

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  • This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.


Things You’ll Need

  • 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
  • 80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscaping fabric
  • 9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums
  • 10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)
  • 4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
  • 4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
  • 3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)
  • 2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
  • Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers
  • And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
  • Duct tape
  • 4 in (10 cm) ABS detachable cap
  • 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block

About This Article

wikiHow Staff Writer contributed to this article. This article was written in part by members of the wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled staff of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is regularly monitored by wikiHow’sContent Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high quality standards. Approximately 2,329,882 people have read this article. Co-authors:53 The most recent update was made on January 15, 2022.

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Thank you for sharing your thoughts. There was a point when I should have been more precise about the arrangement here. I have two lots that are next to each other. Both are in the shape of a long rectangle. Lot1 is 2 acres and has a house as well as a 2,200 sq.ft. business that is currently in place. Approximately 3 acres have been graded for a new 3,600 sq.ft. shop2 on Lot 2. Both stores are roughly 375 feet apart from the home and approximately 65 feet apart from one another. They are also parallel to one another.

  1. During that run, the water level falls below the level of the house septic tank.
  2. In addition, the pipe run would be approximately 400 feet long.
  3. Shop1 will be equipped with a sink as well as a wash/paint booth bay.
  4. We’re looking at a drain in the French style right now.
  5. A toilet and two sinks will be available in Shop2.
  6. The septic system and drain line will be located off the front or side of this structure.
  7. Even though I could connect the two buildings to the same septic system, I’d like to keep them separate in case I decide to sell the properties as independent entities in the future.
  8. The linked photographs were taken from the home patio.
  9. The home septic system is located to the right of the house and adjacent to the house.
  10. As you can see, I’ve been practicing the tinkling (1) technique outside for quite some time.

You have to walk a long way back to the house for that, especially as you become older. In addition, we’ve been here for 32 years and have never had to pump out the septic tank. The soil below grade is a red clay from the state of South Carolina. The water is on its way somewhere.

How to Make a Septic Tank With a 55 Gallon Drum

Home-Diy Temporary septic tanks were formerly constructed from whatever materials were available at the time, such as 55-gallon drums or barrels, according to legend. Despite the fact that these drums or barrels had a limited capacity, they performed well and provided a quick solution to the problem of holding untreated sewage.

  • The following items are required: jigsaw
  • 1-by-10-foot-long 3-inch-diameter black PVC pipe
  • 1-by-10-foot-long leach-line pipe
  • 55-gallon plastic drum or barrel with lid
  • Cinders.


Invest in a natural septic digester, which can be purchased at any ranch supply store, to supplement your temporary septic tank.


It is not permitted to drive or park on top of the temporary septic tank. While 55-gallon drums or barrels may still be used as a temporary solution in areas where there are no zoning or building restrictions, they should only be used as a temporary solution until other more permanent methods of waste containment are put in place.

  1. Dig a hole 10 feet away from the structure that requires a temporary septic tank, in line with the bathroom and 10 feet away from the toilet. For optimal gravity flow while flushing the toilet and to avoid sewage backlog, dig down at least 8 feet. To keep the building from being damaged, dig a ditch 2 feet below right in front of the hole. The trench should be a minimum of 10 feet long. This will be the leach line for your system. Take the jigsaw and cut a hole in the side of the plastic barrel 4 inches below the top to accommodate the 10-foot-long leach line, which is made of 3-inch-diameter PVC black pipe. Make certain that the hole is large enough to accommodate the pipe. Drop in the 55-gallon plastic barrel and insert the black PVC leach-line pipe into the hole you just dug. Cover the leach line with a coating of black plastic and a thick covering of cinders to prevent it from leaking. The soil you took from the leach line when excavating it should be used to re-fill it. Attach the other 10-foot length of solid PVC pipe to the structure and insert it into the bung hole at the top of the drum or barrel, if applicable. Place a black plastic sheet over the whole drum or barrel lid and backfill with earth until it reaches ground level.

Diy septic system? [Archive] – Community Discussion Forums

View the full version of this article: Do you want to build your own septic system? DAISYBELL 10:15 p.m. on January 10, 2010 Anyone have any suggestions for a septic system for our hunting trailer? We’re on a budget. The capacity would be limited to two people for around ten to twelve weekends a year, with no need for washing. There is no ground water within 200 yards of the property. That has the potential to be polluted. Thank you and God bless you. kyle1974 On January 10, 2010, at 9:19 p.m., I created one at a deer lease out of a pair of 55-gallon plastic barrels.

  1. Mike Murphey 10:09 p.m.
  2. 10:17 p.m.
  3. We plumbed in a 4″ line 18″ from the top of a buried plastic 55 gallon drum, and then 4″ from the top, we plumbed in a 2″ drain line to the bottom of the barrel.
  4. I’ve heard it’s still performing good after four years and several usage.
  5. We did not use pea gravel in the drum since it was too heavy.
  6. The drum will eventually fill with solids, but RID-X will be able to make that father in the future.
  7. Take a look at this website.

mchildress 11th of November, 2010 at 1:26 a.m.

If you want to utilize the shower, installing a field or drain line, as Steve said above, will be really beneficial.

Four trailer pads with power and water were installed, which was a welcome improvement over the years of hunting without electricity and water.

Shake101 posted this at 6:27 p.m.

Here’s how to use 55-gallon barrels in the proper manner.

It was either pay to have the tanks pumped out and the system removed or risk getting punished.

Bubbabowhunter On January 11, 2010, at 9:43 p.m., On this one, I agree with gonehuntin.

However, they will not be harmed by what they do not know.

brianlg3101-11-2010, 09:50 PM We simply buried a 55-gallon plastic barrel and wrapped it in burlap to keep the sand out of the holes that we had bored in the side of the container.

The shower, of course, does not drain into it; only the toilet does so.

on the 12th of December, 2010 Black water is sent to a septic system, while grey (wash) water is discharged a considerable distance from the trailer.

In order to construct the septic tank, we utilized 55-gallon barrels.

It’s as simple as digging a hole large enough for the bale to be completely submerged.

Then, in the center of the bale, cut your septic exit line to remove it.

Cover the entire surface with dirt.

DAISYBELL 12th of January, 3:43 p.m.

Is there anyone in the Houston area that has had any experience with this?

Jayburl On January 12, 2010, at 8:08 p.m., Although not in Houston County, we have performed with drums in Cherokee County.

The plastic barrel performs admirably.

on the 18th of March, at 11:50 a.m.

(Melbourne time) onebig smith 3:22 p.m.

Because we’re in a very rocky area, this was a great hassle.

This was done after I piped into the hole and covered it with tin.

Then I trenched downhill a short distance from the hole to allow any extra water to drain away.

We’ve had as many as 15 people using it at the same time with no issues.

txcat4403 on 18-03-2010 at 11:43 p.m.

That individual is always engaged with septic-related activities.

canny It’s possible that AMI manufactures a perforated drain pipe.

I would make a T where the pipe links to the drum and raise the T up flush with the ground, then cover it with a standard sewage cap to complete the installation.

Regular applications of Ridx through the sewer cap should be sufficient to eliminate any solid buildup.

jrfan March 24, 2010 06:07 p.m.

TbarTodd-ty72903 25th of March, 2010 12:32 a.m.

Because we’re in a very rocky area, this was a great hassle.

This was done after I piped into the hole and covered it with tin.

Then I trenched downhill a short distance from the hole to allow any extra water to drain away.

We’ve had as many as 15 people using it at the same time with no issues.


on March 25, 2010.

The drum is buried underground and receives only black water.

Ours is set up such that the inlet is approximately 18 inches above the outflow and 6 inches below the top of the drum.

Under normal conditions, water seldom makes it to the other end of the pipe, but by doing it this way, it can keep up with demand when it is over average.

bowhuntertx10-18-2013, 03:02 PM10-18-2013, 03:02 PM Anybody have any information on whether the black water exit on a travel trailer is a standard 4-inch pipe with a male thread?

I’m hoping to connect it to a pipe that will flow to a drum.

Thanks bowhuntertxOctober 18, 2013, 3:12 p.m.

The black water and grey water drains are connected together; how can I separate them so that just the black water drains into the drum?

Wiley71910-18-2013, 03:23 p.m.

NeuseOctober 19, 2013, 8:33 a.m.

Talon, October 21, 2013, 5:18 p.m.

Because we’re in a very rocky area, this was a great hassle.

This was done after I piped into the hole and covered it with tin.

Then I trenched downhill a short distance from the hole to allow any extra water to drain away.

We’ve had as many as 15 people using it at the same time with no issues.

It wouldn’t seem large enough if you knew how many times Big Smith travels in a day.

wheat February 21, 2014, 11:51 a.m.

See also:  What Causes A Big Hole Next To Your Septic Tank? (Correct answer)

wyliescrib 22nd of February, 11:50 p.m.

Two-bedroom, one-bathroom apartment.

The only thing there was was a hole about two feet wide, four feet long, and three feet deep.

It was clear as soon as they started excavating that things would turn unpleasant.

There is absolutely nothing, and I mean absolutely nothing, to suggest that any garbage of any type ever existed in the pit.


It was rather sandy, but we just dug a little deeper for the main pipe and followed the same route as before.

On June 26, 2014, at 5:42 p.m., Shinesintx posted a message.

jmangrem06-27-2014, 10:46 a.m.

There are obviously regulations governing this type of activity, and for good cause, and stranger things have happened than people getting arrested for posting things on the internet about themselves.

pigstika197806-27-2014, 12:45 p.m.

There are obviously regulations governing this type of activity, and for good cause, and stranger things have happened than people getting arrested for posting things on the internet about themselves.

This graveless field line is lightweight, and all that is required is a tank, pipe, and a method of digging the trench. This version of vBulletin® is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 United States License (2000-2022) by vBulletin Solutions Inc.

How to Care for Your Septic System

Septic system maintenance is neither difficult or expensive, and it does not have to be done frequently. The maintenance of a vehicle is comprised of four major components:

  • Inspect and pump your drainfield on a regular basis
  • Conserve water
  • Dispose of waste properly
  • And keep your drainfield in good condition.

Inspect and Pump Frequently

Inspection of the ordinary residential septic system should be performed by a septic service specialist at least once every three years. Household septic tanks are normally pumped every three to five years, depending on how often they are used. Alternative systems that use electrical float switches, pumps, or mechanical components should be examined more frequently, typically once a year, to ensure that they are in proper working order. Because alternative systems contain mechanical components, it is essential to have a service contract.

  • The size of the household
  • The total amount of wastewater produced
  • The amount of solids present in wastewater
  • The size of the septic tank

Service provider coming? Here is what you need to know.

When you contact a septic service provider, he or she will inspect your septic tank for leaks as well as the scum and sludge layers that have built up over time. Maintain detailed records of any maintenance work conducted on your septic system. Because of the T-shaped outlet on the side of your tank, sludge and scum will not be able to escape from the tank and travel to the drainfield region. A pumping is required when the bottom of the scum layer or the top of the sludge layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, or if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet.

In the service report for your system, the service provider should mention the completion of repairs as well as the condition of the tank.

An online septic finder from the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association (NOWRA) makes it simple to identify service specialists in your region.

Use Water Efficiently

In a normal single-family house, the average indoor water consumption is about 70 gallons per person, per day, on average. A single leaking or running toilet can waste as much as 200 gallons of water each day, depending on the situation. The septic system is responsible for disposing of all of the water that a residence sends down its pipes. The more water that is conserved in a household, the less water that enters the sewage system. A septic system that is operated efficiently will operate more efficiently and will have a lower chance of failure.

  • Toilets with a high level of efficiency. The usage of toilets accounts for 25 to 30% of total home water use. Many older homes have toilets with reservoirs that hold 3.5 to 5 gallons of water, but contemporary, high-efficiency toilets consume 1.6 gallons or less of water for each flush. Changing out your old toilets for high-efficiency versions is a simple approach to lessen the amount of household water that gets into your septic system. Aerators for faucets and high-efficiency showerheads are also available. Reduce water use and the volume of water entering your septic system by using faucet aerators, high-efficiency showerheads, and shower flow restriction devices. Machines for washing clothes. Water and energy are wasted when little loads of laundry are washed on the large-load cycle of your washing machine. By selecting the appropriate load size, you may limit the amount of water wasted. If you are unable to specify a load size, only complete loads of washing should be performed. Washing machine use should be spread throughout the week if at all possible. Doing all of your household laundry in one day may appear to be a time-saving strategy
  • Nevertheless, it can cause damage to your septic system by denying your septic tank adequate time to handle waste and may even cause your drainfield to overflow. Machines that have earned theENERGY STARlabel consume 35 percent less energy and 50 percent less water than ordinary ones, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Other Energy Star appliances can save you a lot of money on your energy and water bills.

Properly Dispose of Waste

Everything that goes down your drains, whether it’s flushed down the toilet, ground up in the trash disposal, or poured down the sink, shower, or bath, ends up in your septic system, which is where it belongs. What you flush down the toilet has an impact on how effectively your septic system functions.

Toilets aren’t trash cans!

Your septic system is not a garbage disposal system.

A simple rule of thumb is to never flush anything other than human waste and toilet paper down the toilet. Never flush a toilet:

  • Cooking grease or oil
  • Wipes that are not flushable, such as baby wipes or other wet wipes
  • Photographic solutions
  • Feminine hygiene items Condoms
  • Medical supplies such as dental floss and disposable diapers, cigarette butts and coffee grounds, cat litter and paper towels, pharmaceuticals, and household chemicals such as gasoline and oil, insecticides, antifreeze, and paint or paint thinners

Toilet Paper Needs to Be Flushed! Check out this video, which demonstrates why the only item you should flush down your toilet are toilet paper rolls.

Think at the sink!

Your septic system is made up of a collection of living organisms that digest and treat the waste generated by your household. Pouring pollutants down your drain can kill these organisms and cause damage to your septic system as well as other things. Whether you’re at the kitchen sink, the bathtub, or the utility sink, remember the following:

  • If you have a clogged drain, avoid using chemical drain openers. To prevent this from happening, use hot water or a drain snake
  • Never dump cooking oil or grease down the sink or toilet. It is never a good idea to flush oil-based paints, solvents, or huge quantities of harmful cleansers down the toilet. Even latex paint waste should be kept to a bare minimum. Disposal of rubbish should be avoided or limited to a minimum. Fats, grease, and particles will be considerably reduced in your septic tank, reducing the likelihood of your drainfield being clogged.

Own a recreational vehicle (RV), boat or mobile home?

If you have ever spent any time in an RV or boat, you are undoubtedly familiar with the issue of aromas emanating from sewage holding tanks.

  • The National Small Flows Clearinghouse’s Septic System Care hotline, which may be reached toll-free at 800-624-8301, has a factsheet on safe wastewater disposal for RV, boat, and mobile home owners and operators.

Maintain Your Drainfield

It is critical that you maintain the integrity of your drainfield, which is a component of your septic system that filters impurities from the liquid that emerges from your septic tank once it has been installed. Here are some things you should do to keep it in good condition:

  • Parking: Do not park or drive on your drainfield at any time. Plan your tree plantings so that their roots do not grow into your drainfield or septic system. An experienced septic service provider can recommend the appropriate distance for your septic tank and surrounding landscaping, based on your specific situation. Locating Your Drainfield: Keep any roof drains, sump pumps, and other rainfall drainage systems away from the drainfield area. Excess water causes the wastewater treatment process to slow down or halt completely.

On the Level: How frequently should a septic tank be pumped? It depends.

I’m hoping you’ll be able to assist me with this one. I had a septic tank installed in my home five years ago when it was built. The house has three bathrooms, and it is typically occupied by two individuals for around five months out of the year. I was under the impression that the tank needed to be pumped after five years, but three different pumping firms have been unable to identify it, despite having a copy of the Health Department’s schematic on hand. The builder has been completely ineffective.

  • Based on how infrequently I use my septic system, are there any general standards I can follow to determine how many years I may safely wait for the sewer to come to my assistance?
  • For five months out of the year, two adults?
  • That equates to 15,000 gallons of water being processed through that system, and its design processing capacity is easily three or more times that much, so I wouldn’t be too concerned about the system’s health.
  • As you are aware, a malfunctioning septic system may be a life-altering catastrophe for those who are affected.
  • It is possible for restaurants to be on septic systems if they are equipped for this.
  • Drawings of current systems are maintained on file at the health department, organized by location, for future reference.
  • On a regular basis, the settled solids in the stage one tank must be pumped out and transported off site to be disposed of at another location.

The builders or installers could design them nearly any way they pleased, and they may labor for only a few years or fewer before quitting their jobs.

That’s a lot of money.

I have personally witnessed septic systems that consisted of little more than a 55-gallon barrel full of oyster shells that had been put in the ground as a dispersion system.

They are involved in the design of the systems as well as the installation of such systems.

Considering that you have the plans in hand, I’m a little perplexed as to why three septic haulers were unable to locate your tank.

There are now firms that specialize in septic inspections known as “pick and shovel” septic testing, and those individuals are well-versed in the process of locating and exposing sewage systems, so you might want to consider going down that path.

A four- or six-inch pipe protruding from the ground normally serves as a signal for the position of the pipe.

Whether or whether you need to pump that tank at this time is the true problem at hand.

Oh, I understand that some people recommend cleanings every year or every couple of years, and I agree that it all depends on how often you use it.

In your situation, I would not pay a cent right away and would instead continue to wait for the sewage.

Continue to send in your correspondence. If you have a question, a suggestion, or a comment, please let me know. Send a letter to “On The Level,” c/o The Capital, P.O. Box 3407, Annapolis, MD 21403, or send an email to [email protected] with the subject “On The Level.”

Why Your Septic Tank Looks Full After Pumping – Septic Maxx

Septic tanks must be pumped on a regular basis in order to maintain an effective and healthy system. You’ve probably peered inside your tank after it’s been pumped and wondered why the water level is still so high. When you see a high water level, it might be alarming, especially if you are not familiar with what happens throughout the pumping process. What you need to know about your septic tank is outlined here.

Water is Necessary

Pumping a septic tank removes the solid waste or sludge from the tank’s bottom, allowing it to function properly. Excessive sludge in a septic tank can find its way through the outlet and into the drain field pipes, causing severe flooding in the surrounding area. Not everyone is aware that there is a specified operating level for all septic tanks, which may be found here. 8 to 12 inches from the top of the septic tank’s lid should indicate that the tank is “full.” This might vary based on the size and kind of septic tank used.

When the water level in your tank exceeds the capacity of the pipe, your tank is considered to be overfilled.

You should get your septic system examined and water usage should be restricted until an expert can determine the source of the problem.

What Can Cause Your Septic Tank to Overfill

There might be a variety of factors contributing to your septic tank being overfilled. The presence of an overfilled septic tank is frequently a symptom that your drain field is not operating properly. The drain field is the final fixture in the septic system, and it is responsible for returning treated wastewater to the surrounding soil. When your drain field floods, the water flow becomes obstructed, causing the water level in your septic tank to increase significantly. Plumbing problems and excessive water use are two more prevalent problems.

Excessive water use might cause the septic tank to fill with more contents than it is capable of handling, resulting in a high water level.

Septic Maxx provides high-quality solutions that effectively tackle the problems that afflict septic tanks.

Get in touch with us to talk with a septic specialist right now.

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