How Make Septic Tank Baffle Outlet? (Solution)

  • Build your replacement baffle using the PVC pipe and coupling. Cut one section of pipe to connect to the existing drain and pass through the wall of the septic tank. Attach the tee coupling to the pipe on the interior of the tank.

Does a septic tank need baffles?

Inlet baffles are needed for proper performance of the septic tank. Raw sewage from the residence is directed by the baffle downward into the middle zone of the septic tank. This means the effluent follows a tortuous path through the tank, which provides the necessary detention time for the larger solids to settle out.

How deep should a septic baffle be?

The inlet baffle should extend at least six inches below the invert of the pipe, but no more than 20% of the liquid depth. The outlet baffle should extend between 35 and 40% of the liquid depth.

What do outlet baffles do in a septic system?

The outlet baffle It must be present for your system to function properly. The outlet baffle directs the flow of effluent from the tank to the drainfield; it prevents the scum layer from exiting straight into the outlet pipe and causing drainfield clogs and premature system failure.

How long do septic baffles last?

Inspectapedia estimates that a steel tank baffles will rust out in 15 to 20 years and may collapse if driven over, but a concrete tank will last 40 years or more as long as the wastewater is not acidic. It’s important to consider the life expectancy of a drain-field, too.

How long should a septic baffle be?

The inlet baffle should extend at least 6 inches, but no more than 12 inches into the liquid level of the tank. The inlet baffle should extend 12 inches above the liquid level of the tank. This is a total baffle length of 18 to 24 inches.

How much lower should the outlet be than the inlet on a septic tank?

Generally speaking, the outlet on a septic tank should be around 4–6″ lower than the inlet, depending on the size of the tank. The tank itself, when set in place, should be as level as possible. The height difference from inlet to outlet is accounted for in the tank’s manufacture.

Is the inlet or outlet higher on a septic tank?

Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).

Where is the outlet baffle in septic tank?

Septic baffles are located at the junctions where pipes enter and exit the tank. The one at the inlet pipe is called the inlet baffle, and the one at the outlet is called the outlet baffle.

What is the purpose of a baffle wall?

Baffle walls control the flow of water and increase residence time, while partition walls separate zones or enhance mixing. Our baffle and partition walls are made up of fiberglass panels, angles, and framing members.

How much does it cost to replace a baffle in a septic tank?

Repairing a baffle costs $300 to $900 on average. You may pay more if it’s tough to access. The baffle helps to prevent buildup in the incoming or outgoing pipes of the tank.

How do you tell if your septic tank is full?

How to tell your septic tank is full and needs emptying

  1. Pooling water.
  2. Slow drains.
  3. Odours.
  4. An overly healthy lawn.
  5. Sewer backup.
  6. Gurgling Pipes.
  7. Trouble Flushing.

How to Build a Septic Tank Baffle

For the second time, septic systems aren’t designed to handle large amounts of water, so 30 gallons from a smaller Class B or Class C RV should be no problem; just make sure no one is taking showers or washing clothes inside at the same time you’re doing it! Third, make certain that you utilize the clean-out that is upstream from the septic tank and as close to the home as you can get away with doing so. You should dump into the septic tank itself upstream of the barrier if you are dumping into it.

This is something you do not want.

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Step 1

Second, septic systems are not designed to handle large amounts of water, so 30 gallons from a smaller Class B or Class C RV should not be an issue; however, be sure no one is taking showers or washing clothes inside while you are doing this. Third, make certain that you utilize the clean-out that is upstream from the septic tank and as close to the home as you can get it. If you’re going to dump into the septic tank itself, make sure to do so upstream of the baffle. If you dump into the drainfield, you’ll almost certainly be asked to the dig-up-the-drainfield celebration, where you’ll be the guest of honor.

When in doubt, take a short trip across town to the RV disposal site.

Step 2

Also, make sure you clean the opposite end of the pipe and the center hole on the tee fitting before continuing. Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the pipe before inserting it into the tee fitting. As the pipe is being inserted into the fitting, twist it slightly to assist in spreading the adhesive evenly. Hold the pipe in place for a few seconds to enable the adhesive to cure a little bit more before moving ahead.

Step 3

Another portion of PVC pipe should be cut. When this portion is installed, it will extend down into the septic tank from where it is connected to the tee fitting and must be long enough to pass through the surface sludge in the tank, which is usually no more than 6 inches thick. The pipe must be extended down roughly 12 inches past the sludge before it can be used. This portion should be reduced to 24 inches in length for safety reasons. This is accomplished by extending below the sludge and preventing it from entering the field lines or backing up into the home drain.

Step 4

One end of the pipe should be cleaned and the PC cement should be applied. The pipe should be inserted into one of the two holes on the tee fitting. To secure the pipe in place, twist it slightly again and keep it in place until the glue has had a chance to build up a little more.

Step 5

Measure and cut a final piece of PVC pipe that is approximately 6 inches long.

Pipe cleaner should be used to clean both ends of the pipe before applying pipe cement to only one end of the pipe. Slide the other end of the tee fitting into the last opening in the fitting. Twist it gently and hold it in place for a few seconds to ensure it stays in place.

Step 6

Once you’ve cleaned the second pipe coupler, you’ll want to apply cement to the end of the short pipe you just fitted. Slide the coupler onto the pipe and hold it in place for a few seconds to ensure that it is securely attached. Additional glue should be applied to the interior of the coupler before inserting the grate insert into the coupler. Allow for thorough drying of all fittings before installing them.

How to Replace an Outlet Baffle in an Existing Septic Tank

The baffles in your septic tank are critical to the proper operation of the tank. If the baffles in the tank are not working properly, the sludge floating in the tank might enter the field lines or back up into the home drainage system. It is possible for baffles to rust, crack, or otherwise degrade over time. Every time the tank is emptied out, it is important to inspect the baffles to ensure that they are in excellent working order.

Step 1

Find the location of the septic tank. Most contemporary tanks feature two access doors, one on each end of the tank, which makes for easier maintenance. Excavate to the top of the septic tank and remove enough dirt to expose both access hatches and provide you with enough space to operate comfortably and safely. Check to see that you will not be dumping dirt into the tank while you are working.

Step 2

The septic tank should be identified. Modern tanks include two access doors, one on each end of the tank, which allows for easier maintenance. Excavate to the top of the septic tank and remove enough soil to expose both access hatches and provide you with enough space to operate comfortably and efficiently. Before you begin, double-check that you will not be dumping dirt into the tank.

Step 3

Making use of the PVC pipe and connection, you may construct a replacement baffle. Using a hacksaw, cut a portion of tubing long enough to connect to an existing drain and pass through the side of the septic tank. Glue the tee connection onto the pipe that runs through the interior of the tank. Add a length of pipe 24 inches long to the bottom of the tee and a 6-inch piece to the top of the tee to complete the construction. Install a grate cap on the top section of the chimney, which will enable gases to leave but prevent solids from entering the chimney.

Step 4

Check that all of the fittings and connections are securely and firmly in place before proceeding. Check to see that the seal around the pipe where it enters the septic tank is secure to ensure that there is no leaking. For effective liquid flow management into the field line, the baffle on the outlet end of the septic tank should be 4 to 6 inches longer than the baffle on the input end. According to the manufacturer, the 24-inch portion of pipe that was installed should be more than enough to satisfy this requirement.

Step 5

In order to ensure that they are firmly in place, replace the access hatches and back-fill the hole with a suitable material. It is important to check on the new baffles the next time the tank is emptied out to ensure that they are still in place and in excellent shape.

Expert Tips for Baffle Repair

In order to ensure that they are firmly in place, replace the access hatches and then backfill the hole.

It is important to check on the new baffles the next time the tank is emptied out to ensure that they are still in place and in excellent shape.

3 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES

By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.

  1. Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
  2. A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
  3. When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
  4. In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
  5. Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
  6. Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
  7. In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.
See also:  Why Are There White Lines Near My Septic Tank? (Solution found)

Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.

grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.

Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.

Water conservation should be practiced.

Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.

Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.

The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.

Installing Baffles and Screens Correctly to Retain Solids

Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plus, there are Onsite Systems. Receive Notifications Sewage treatment plants are designed to hold sediments that collect in the soil. Solid waste can include a variety of items, some of which are byproducts of the waste treatment process and others which are materials that may not be capable of being treated, such as human hair. It is critical that the sediments remain in the septic tank and are not discharged into the surrounding environment.

  • Baffles and screens are used in a variety of applications.
  • It is the purpose of an inlet baffle to guide the incoming flow downward into the clear zone and to prevent the inlet pipes from becoming blocked with scum.
  • A plate or partial wall baffle is one form of baffle that is isolated from the pipe system.
  • Plate baffles can be added by the manufacturer before to the tank being delivered, or by the installer after the tank has been delivered.
  • A sanitary tee is another sort of intake baffle that may be used.
  • The installation of these is similar to that of plate baffles in that they are attached directly to the building sewage plumbing that is located on the interior of the tank.
  • Some tanks are shipped with a sanitary tee already connected to the tank’s drain.
  • It is critical to properly support this pipe since any settling increases the likelihood of leaks or the tee slipping out of alignment.
  • There are two types of outlet baffles available: a partial wall baffle and a pipe arrangement.
  • The tank exit is often equipped with an effluent filter, which removes any further suspended materials that might clog downstream components.

Additionally, the screen may be put into any regular golf hole. It is necessary to place the screen beneath the tank access so that it may be inspected and maintained. A number of things should be taken into consideration when selecting an effluent screen if one is to be employed.

  • Ideally, the screen enclosure will function as an output tee. Solids with a thickness of no more than 1/8-inch should be able to pass through the screen and into the cartridge. The capacity of the screen should be sufficient to accommodate the anticipated organic load. It is important that the screen be securely fastened in place and that it does not allow unfiltered solids to flow through if the screen apertures get blocked. When designing the screen housing, take care to ensure that it does not interfere with periodic tank pumping.

A multi-compartment tank may be necessary or recommended in a number of circumstances. The added barrier may aid in the slowing down of the effluent as well as the retention of particles. Typically, a tank with compartments has a tee, slot, or central transfer hole in addition to the compartments. The initial compartment of a septic tank shall have a volume that is equal to or greater than the volume of any subsequent compartments, unless otherwise specified. To provide adequate ventilation of sewage gases via the plumbing stack in the facility, air must be forced to move from one compartment to another.

  • The usage of a smoke test for verification or troubleshooting may be warranted.
  • She holds a bachelor’s degree in civil engineering and a master’s degree in environmental science.
  • Her responsibilities include serving as the education chair for the Minnesota Onsite Wastewater Association and the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association, as well as serving on the National Science Foundation’s International Committee on Wastewater Treatment Systems.
  • Heger will respond as soon as possible.

How to Replace a Septic Tank Baffle

In the event if your septic tank is kept in good condition by frequent plumping, a septic tank baffle is not necessarily essential. Even if there isn’t one, the tank is perfectly functioning. Providing that it is well maintained, with regular pumping, or that there are no other difficulties that might cause a large amount of sludge to accumulate in your tank, this should be possible for you. For example, if your tank has to be pumped out once every 4 or 5 years, or if the wastes are discharged into a drain field, you should consider installing a filter on the outlet side of the tank.

If the baffle on your tank has been rusted or broken, you may replace it rather than having to purchase a completely new tank.

Step 1 – Accessing the Septic Tank

You should get access to the exterior of the septic tank, which is where the water is discharged into the drain field. If you are unable to reach the lid from the ground level, you will need to dig to gain access to the lid.

Step 2 – Clean the Area

If possible, you should enter the septic tank from the outside, where the water drains to the drain field.

It is necessary to dig into the earth if you are unable to reach the lid from the surface.

Step 3 – Pump the Tank

If there are any issues, you should pump the tank in order to ease the difficulties that are now present. If you want to replace the baffle or possibly the entire septic tank, this is a very crucial step. Step 4 – Unlock the outlet side of the device. Once you’ve opened the lid on the outlet side, you should be able to reach the top of the baffle and slide the new filter or new baffle down until you reach the handle of the filter, as shown in the picture. The access plate should be elevated above ground level if digging was required in order to reach it.

Extra Tips

You should keep in mind that, while filters can solve many issues, they can also cause many new ones. So be cautious while using filters. If you are the system owner and you perform the work on your own, you are aware that the system and filter must be properly maintained in order to avoid clogging and other problems. Solid waste depositions in the drain field are caused by clogging of the drain. According to other reports, the technology may even back them up inside the house. It is possible to extend the life of a septic tank and system by reducing the quantity of water that enters the particular system.

If you keep track of how much water you use, you may save money on water and avoid having to make costly repairs to your septic tank.

Tank

Tank System Reconstruction Replacement of the baffle A baffle is a barrier or shield that is installed in front of the tank’s inlet and exit openings. These shields, which are made of concrete, PVC, or plastic, are critical to the effective working of the system. The entrance baffle, which is partly submerged and half exposed to the water, is meant to redirect incoming waste down into the tank, preventing the tank from being agitated. When you agitate the tank, the settled sewage rises to the surface, flows out of the tank, and plugs the drainfield.

  1. One of the most common reasons for septic tank lines to become clogged is the absence of a baffle within the tank.
  2. At each service visit to your septic system, we perform a visual inspection of each baffle to ensure that they are in good working order and performing their function!
  3. Tank Ventilation and Sealing In the course of time, tanks, particularly those built of steel, can degrade and develop holes through which ground water can enter the tank.
  4. Excavation for coverDigging We will find your tank cover and dig up your tank for you at no additional charge.
  5. During the winter months, we may thaw the ground with the help of a heat blanket, which will make digging more convenient.
  6. Some tanks have deteriorated to the point that the structural integrity has been compromised, and in those cases, we urge that they be replaced.
  7. During this repair operation, a tank entrance will be created in order to install a custom-made polypropylene piece that will protect the wall and serve as a baffle.

This is only a short-term solution. A rusted tank will eventually need to be replaced, but this repair can significantly extend the life of the tank.

Signs Your Septic Tank Could Have A Bad Baffle That Needs To Be Replaced – Keeping It Clean: A Sanitation Blog

Your septic system may be able to function for several years without the need for repairs. Although a clogged pipe may occur from time to time, a concrete tank can survive for a lengthy period of time before difficulties begin to arise in its operation. The breakdown of the baffles in a septic tank is one of the most common problems. Here’s a look at how to detect whether your tank is suffering from this issue, as well as the repairs that may be necessary. Baffles for septic tanks have a purpose.

  • It is the one on the inlet side that directs how water and waste flow into and out of the system when it is first installed.
  • The outlet baffle plays a crucial function since a blocked drainfield may be very expensive to fix, thus it is necessary to have one installed.
  • Solids and fat layer are left behind to be pushed out at a later time.
  • When this occurs, solids or fats can enter the distribution box and drainfield.
  • The obstruction produced by a faulty baffle may result in waste backing up into your home or your drains becoming clogged.
  • Regular tank pumping allows the septic service to inspect the state of the baffles, which allows them to be repaired if they are in poor condition and replaced before the baffles fail completely.
  • If you have a more recent tank, the baffle may be made of plastic.
  • When a baffle is damaged, it must be replaced immediately.
  • The waste must be pumped out before the contractor can begin working on the tank, which is why it is a good idea to have the baffles examined at the same time that the tank is being cleaned out.
  • In such instance, the contractor will have to remove the clog out of the baffle and determine whether or not the baffle will need to be replaced.
  • Contact a septic tank service in your region if you require further information.
See also:  Why The Septic Tank Don Drain? (Perfect answer)

WHAT SEPTIC BAFFLES ARE AND HOW THEY WORK

Your septic system may be able to function for several years without the need for any repairs or replacement parts. Although a clogged pipe may occur from time to time, a concrete tank can endure for a lengthy period of time before difficulties begin to arise. Baffle failure is one of the many problems that can occur with a septic tank. Take a look at how to determine if your tank is experiencing this issue, as well as the possible solutions. Septic Tank Baffles Have a Purpose. Baffles are installed in your septic tank.

  1. The baffle on the outlet side of the tank prevents waste from leaving and blocking the drainfield.
  2. Only wastewater should be discharged from a septic tank under normal conditions.
  3. A Bad Baffle’s Characteristics Solids or fats can flow through the exit baffle if it is obstructed or has worn away due to age.
  4. Septic puddles in your yard and a foul smell emanating from your property are possible outcomes.
  5. Another possibility is that you will not detect that the outlet baffle is failing until significant damage has occurred to the drainfield.
  6. What Kind of Septic Tank Repairs Might Be Required?
  7. If you have an ancient concrete tank, it is possible that the baffle is made of concrete as well.
  8. You may be approached by your contractor about upgrading to a new plastic baffle with enhanced screens in order to lessen the likelihood of future blockage.
  9. Tree roots or paper that has not been disintegrated might block a baffle from time to time.

The drainfield and the tank may both require repair if the damage has been there for a lengthy period of time. Septic tank servicing in your region can provide you with further information. Share

Old Septic System Baffle Repair

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Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Just had my very old septic system inspected and pumped. Turns out the concrete baffles have rotten and fallen into the tank. It’s not really feasible to use PVC tees as new baffles because the tank is so old that it has two clay outlet pipes. I was thinking about building some baffles out of stainless steel similar to the old concrete baffles and fastening them with tapcons to the septic walls. Is this a good idea?The outlet baffle looked like this _/ if you were looking from the top down into the septic tank, with the outlet pipe in between the opening. It probably went down about two feet. The inlet baffle seemed to just be a wall that went from one side of the tank to the other, but I’m not sure how far it went down.Edited 1 times.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:Dunbar (KY)Those baffles go to the bottom, and are designed as such to allow the first bay to take on most of the solids, second bay to settle waterborn particulates, third bay to be the finished “clear” effluent that safely distrubutes to the finger system of leaching fields.I haven’t seen John Aldrich “Septic Tank Yank” here in a long time. Anyone know of his whereabouts?His last post was around 318,000 and we’re at 383,000 on this thread.Right about the time I stopped getting emails from him. I hope all is well.-Always be aware of cross-connections in your potable water systems-They could one day harm you and your loved ones.Edited 2 times.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)Tank Yank would be the best source for this question however; from my limited experience this person is looking at replacing that old thing, you could image what the rest it of looks like, it’s lived it’s life and now a new one is needed.10-22-08, 8:18am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:hj (AZ)The outlet baffle is to prevent grease, etc., on top of the water from exiting through the outlet. The inlet baffle goes down to a point a foor or so above the floor to give the influent time to separate.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I understand that the system is very old and will need replacing, but it is still functioning and I would like to get as much life out of it as possible. Now isn’t the best time to be forking out $5,000-$10,000.After the tank was pumped, I could see the outlet baffle at the bottom of the tank and it definately was not long enough to go all the way to the bottom. The pump guy said it only runs down a couple of feet. He told me I shouldn’t really be concerned with the inlet baffle and it was the outlet baffle that was important. I’m just thinking something will be better than nothing so I can get some more life out of the system.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:dlh (TX)this isnt a car. i have never heard of anyone repairing a septic tank.i have found it is much better to bite the bullet now than it is to wait. waiting almost always means a larger bill in the end.-PLUMBERS “Protecting The Health Of The Nation”
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:yonson (SC)My septic guy told me the same thing when my exit collapsed (the exit is most important). He placed a “t” type port at the exit, but mine was PVC. An easy fix.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:LemonPlumber (FL)Do you have a scrap or 12″ diameter pvc pipe,two feet long?cut it in half use half at each end tapcon it with the top, at the top of the inlet hole and the outlet four inches or so higher than that.Old culvert pipe.Dead propane cylinder.If you use metal it may decay faster but should give you five years to save up.Good Luck with any rig.You need a new tank.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Ok, I know the tank needs replacing, but it’s not going to hurt by rigging it to last a little longer since the entire system will need to be replaced anyway. I am not doing any more damage by not replacing it now.So, the 12″ PVC sounds like the best idea yet.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)”There is nothing so permanent then something so temporary.”The plumber I served my apprenticeship under would say that when we were called in to make the correct repair after a handyman or homeowner only did a temporary fix that would last sometimes for years.Be honest, it will never get fixed until the system completely craps out.10-23-08, 7:18am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:yonson (SC)”it will never get fixed until the system completely craps out”Pun intended?
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I also plan on constructing new concrete lids. Is this ok to do with quickrete conrete mix and rebar? I want to make sure that there is no danger of the lids breaking, which there is with the current lids.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:hi (TX)Hello,You may still be helped.The exit T and the baffle are placed to keep solids and greases out of the leach field which will plug the pores and render the leach field inoperative and result in effluent finding its way to the surface.You have a two chamber tank that has made itself a one chamber tank with the collapse of the baffle wall.This is not an infrequent finding during septic inspections done properly.Your best (most effective and cost effective)fix is to place a PVC Tee on the outlet to the box.This keeps the floating solids out of the field.It needs to be fit solidly and leak free to be effective and long lasting.If possible also place an inlet T to force “incoming” waste to go to the bottom rather than float across to the exit of the tank.If the repair exposes the exit of the tank you may also want to include an effluent filter to trap solids before they go to the field. This is a newer design that further reduces material that can plug up the leach field.Be careful with the tanks as they can collapse and may not have enough oxygen to support life inside!Safety is Most important!Here is a article discussing your exact question. The website contains a “wealth” of septic info.Here is another (scroll about 3/4 way down and see the part about the baffle deterioration and repair.)
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I mentioned in my first post that using tees is not feasible at the outlet due to there being two clay outlet pipes. I guess I could try to use two tees, but how would I secure them to the clay pipes?
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:LemonPlumber (FL)You might be better off wrapping the old ones,with rewire making the joint on top then adding a 2″ layer of topping mix.Good Luck.Unless you intend to pour the lid’s six or more inches thick,smaller stone or sand type should be used.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)Don’t you have plumbing codes in Florida where the concrete tank and top must be made of Monolithic Concrete and must have the strength of 2000lbs per sq inch or more so it does not cave in on a poor sole years from now:10-25-08, 8:20am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:redwood (CT)Things are a tad bit lax in Florida IMHO- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Quickrete says it is 4000 psi.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:rca411 (OK)Can’t you just dig it up some behind the tank, then stub PVC back into the septic tank and glue on a sanitary tee for a new baffle?
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Everything You Need to Know About Your Septic Tank

What is a septic tank, and how does it work? A septic tank is a water-tight container that is often constructed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene to prevent flooding (plastic). In fact, it is only one component of the entire septic system, which includes several other components such as a distribution box, pumps, float switches, aerators, filters, and other accessories. Septic systems are used to treat wastewater on-site in many rural and suburban areas that do not have access to centralized sewage systems.

The components of a conventional septic tank are depicted in the diagram below.

These are:

  1. The Tank: This is the water-tight tank into which wastewater from your house is sent once it has been collected. A hole, fracture, or any other structural damage should not be present. Access Ports: When a trained pumper comes to clean up your tank, they will utilize an access port. When it comes to tank cleaning, it is critical that the access port be large enough to allow the pumper to move the hose about within the tank properly. A common application for risers is to elevate septic tank access above ground level, eliminating the need to dig up your septic tank every time it has to be pumped. Last but not least, the access port should be securely secured with a child-resistant lid. It is vital for the protection of your family that septic tank lids are securely fastened with screws and that they are not cracked or damaged. Pipes for entering and exiting the septic tank: Wastewater from your house enters the septic tank through the intake pipe. After the particles have settled out, the effluent is discharged from the septic tank through the exit pipe and into the drainage field. There should be roughly 3 inches between the output pipe and the intake pipe. A baffle is fitted on the intake pipe within the tank, and it serves to keep the water out. It provides a variety of functions. Additionally, it helps to avoid the build-up of scum and its backup into the intake pipe It is also important for solids to settle in the tank that the input baffle be properly installed. When wastewater enters the septic tank, it should hit the entrance baffle, which will reduce the flow and prevent the tank from becoming agitated. This permits the contents of the septic tank to remain at rest, allowing the solids to sink to the bottom of the tank. The intake baffle can also prevent odorous odors from entering the sewage line and spreading throughout the home or business
  2. And It is even more crucial than the inlet baffle to have an exit baffle in place because it helps to prevent scum and other particles from flowing directly into the outflow pipe and eventually into the drain field. Gas Deflector/Effluent Filter: As gas bubbles climb to the top of a septic tank, they may bring sediments with them. This is why an effluent filter is used. A gas deflector prevents these solid-carrying gases from entering the output line by preventing them from entering. However, while not every septic tank is equipped with an effluent filter, it is strongly suggested as an additional safety to prevent particulates from entering your drain field.

Any of the above-mentioned components in your septic tank should be checked for damage or missing parts as soon as possible, and the problem should be resolved by a septic system specialist. What is the operation of a septic tank? Each and every drop of wastewater from your home is channeled via a main drainage pipe and into your septic tank. Solids are prevented from entering your drain field by using the septic tank, which is just a settling tank that serves as a filter. Ideally, the water should be kept in the tank for at least one day in order to enable time for the solids to settle.

Heavy materials, such as dirt and digested waste, will sink to the bottom of the tank and form a sludge layer at the bottom of the tank.

Effluent is the term used to describe the liquid that exists between the sludge and scum layers.

It is critical that solids are given adequate time and space to settle before being used.

In fact, the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection mandates a minimum capacity of 900 gallons for any new septic tank installations in the state (the table below shows recommended septic tank capacities for different sized homes).

Ideally, you should have your septic tank emptied every two to three years, according to the Pennsylvania Septage Management Association (PSMA).

If a drain field has been ruined by a buildup of sediments, it might cost tens of thousands of dollars to rebuild it.

It is crucial to understand that your septic tank must be completely filled with liquid in order to function effectively.

The septic tank diagram shown above depicts the correct operating level of a septic tank in a residential setting.

The result is that whenever more wastewater is added to the tank, an equal volume of effluent will be discharged from the tank and drain into the drain field.

The opposite is true if the liquid level is higher than the outflow line, which may signal a blockage in a line downstream from the septic tank or in the drain field.

If you’re wondering if your septic tank is full, a skilled pumper will consider it “full” once solids have filled one-third of the tank’s capacity. This is the time of year when your septic tank will need to be pumped.

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