How Long Are Septic Tank Drain Lines? (Best solution)

How long are septic lines?

• Septic drainfield trench length: The maximum length of a trench is typically about 150 feet but we have found installations that were three times that length. Some writers opine that the maximum septic trench line is 100 feet.

How long should leach lines be?

A standard leach line is considered to be three (3) feet wide and three (3) feet deep with a length as required. A non-standard leach line is wider, narrower, and/or deeper than three (3) feet with a length as required.

How far do field lines extend from septic tank?

Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank ‘setbacks’ with tank 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house, at least 100 feet away from wells and streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property

How big is a leach field for a 3 bedroom house?

For example, the minimum required for a three bedroom house with a mid range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch is 750 square feet.

How close can you build next to a drain field?

– A full foundation must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 20 feet from the leaching area. – A slab foundation such as a garage must be 10 feet from the septic tank and 10 feet from the leaching area. – Concrete columns for a deck must be 5 feet from the leaching area and not disturb the septic system.

How far should drain field be from septic tank?

Common guidelines require at least 50′ clearance distance between a well and a septic system tank or 150′ between a well and a septic drainfield or leaching bed but you will see that different authorities may recommend different distances. Local soil and rock conditions can make these “rules of thumb” unreliable.

How long will a leach field last?

Under normal conditions and good care, a leach-field will last for 50 years or more. Concrete septic tanks are sturdy and reliable but not indestructible.

Can a drain field be cleaned?

It is often possible to clean and renew a clogged septic leach field instead of replacing the drain field lines. Septic field lines can fail to drain when heavy solids accumulate and block perforations in the lines. You can use a sewer jetter to clean perforated PVC septic leach field lines from 2″ to 6″ ID.

How far apart are leach field lines?

The minimum separation between the bottom of any leaching device and seasonally high groundwater shall be: 5 feet where the leaching device is between 50 and 100 feet from a stream, spring, or other waterbody.

How do you find a buried septic tank?

Tips for locating your septic tank

1. If the septic tank lid is underground, you can use a metal detector to locate it.
2. You can use a flushable transmitter that is flushed in the toilet and then the transmitter is tracked with a receiver.

Can you add dirt on top of leach field?

Never add additional soil over the drain field unless it is a minimal amount used to restore an area that may have been eroded or pulled up by removing another plant. Try not to be overly zealous when tilling the soil for planting. Remember that the drain lines may be as close as 6 inches from the soil surface.

What can you put on top of a septic field?

Put plastic sheets, bark, gravel or other fill over the drainfield. Reshape or fill the ground surface over the drainfield and reserve area. However, just adding topsoil is generally OK if it isn’t more than a couple of inches. Make ponds on or near the septic system and the reserve area.

How long are septic drain lines? – Kitchen

In most cases, individual drain lines run perpendicular to the intake line, but they may also branch into an H-pattern or other patterns that are appropriate for the terrain. The lines should not be more than 10 feet apart and should not be more than 100 feet in length combined.

How long do leach lines need to be?

Although the drain line exits the tank parallel to the intake line, individual drain lines may run perpendicular to the intake line or branch into an H-pattern or other patterns that are appropriate for the terrain. The lines should not be more than 10 feet apart and should not be more than 100 feet in length overall.

How long are drain fields?

Individual drain lines may run perpendicular to the intake line or branch into an H-pattern or other patterns that are appropriate for the terrain. The lines should be no more than 10 feet apart and no more than 100 feet in length.

How do I calculate the size of my septic drain field?

Drainfield Dimensions

1. This is expressed in square feet and is determined by the number of bedrooms in the house as well as the soil qualities. A three-bedroom house with a mid-range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch, for example, requires a minimum of 750 square feet of space to function properly.

How long do septic field lines last?

If there are no missteps, such as those discussed in this article, a field like this may persist anywhere from 10 to 20 years. Septic tanks and soil absorption systems (ST/SAS) should have a life expectancy of at least 20 years, according to USDA sources.

How many leach field chambers do I need?

The recommended practice is to keep trench lengths around 50 feet (12 to 13 four-foot-long chambers) in order to ensure complete trench saturation and the best possible treatment of effluent. Always vent the ends of each chamber run in order to guarantee a healthy flow of air across the whole system. Venting holes must be bored into the inspection port at the end of each run to allow for inspection.

How far should leach field be from house?

Trench lengths should be limited to around 50 feet (12 to 13 four foot long chambers) in order to ensure complete trench saturation and the most effective treatment of effluent. Maintain healthy air flow across the system by venting the ends of each chamber run. Venting holes must be drilled into the inspection port at the end of each run to allow for proper inspection.

How deep is a drain field?

Drainfield trenches are typically 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches in a normal situation.

How long is a septic trench?

Drainfield trenches are typically 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches in a normal installation.

How deep does a leach field have to be?

Your yard’s leach fields are often placed in a big, flat, and open region of your property. They can have many ditches ranging in depth from 18 to 36 inches, width ranging from one to three feet, and length ranging from one to 100 feet. In most cases, the distance between each trench is six feet. Leach fields can persist for up to 25 years if they are properly managed.

How big should a drain field be?

Septic drainfield trenches typically range in depth from 18 to 30 inches, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches. This corresponds to a depth ranging from 2 to 5 feet, according to the USDA.

How much Drainfield do I need?

If an absorption bed drainfield is utilized, the drainfield size must be at least 100 square feet, with an extra 50 square feet for each additional bedroom over two bedrooms if the drainfield is larger than 100 square feet.

How do I know if my drain field is failing?

Keep an eye out for these five symptoms that your drainfield is no longer functioning properly.

1. Drainage is becoming more sluggish. Drainage from all of the sinks, tubs, and toilets in a home that has a clogged drainfield is the first thing that homeowners notice when their drainfield is damaged. Rising water levels
2. Increased plant growth
3. Reversing flow
4. The development of odors

How much does it cost to replace a leach field?

It is reasonable to anticipate to pay between $5,000 and $20,000 for leach field repair. Costs will vary depending on the size of the leach field, the soils used, and the costs of local permits. The septic system’s most expensive component is the sewage treatment system.

How do you know if your septic field is failing?

It is reasonable to anticipate to pay between $5,000 and $20,000 for leach field repair. Costs may vary depending on the size of the leach field, the soils used, and the cost of local permits. Septic systems are quite expensive, and this is the most expensive component.

What Are Leach Lines and When Should They Be Replaced?

If your house is equipped with an aseptic system, it will have leach lines or an aleach field. It is necessary to have leach lines as part of any onsite wastewater system since they are the final stage in a process that begins at your sink or toilet and finishes with the wastewater being disposed of in the ground. When the leach lines stop working, the entire system fails as a result. Knowing how to recognize failing or failed leach lines may assist you in catching the problem early and limiting the amount of money spent on replacement.

How a Septic System Works

In order to separate them from municipal or public waste systems, septic systems are also referred to as onsite wastewater management systems. The usage of the phrase “onsite” is important because a home’s septic system and a municipal system perform substantially the same functions. Both systems are designed to treat liquid waste or sewage (also known as effluent) and render it harmless by eliminating the pathogens that are present in it.

1. It is through the sewer line that the greywater (water collected from sinks and showers, but not baths) as well as toilet liquid and solid waste leave the residence. It is the sewage line that transports the waste down to the septic tank. The trash begins its journey through the septic tank in the first compartment. Heavy waste items sink to the bottom of the tank, while lighter waste materials such as oils and greases float to the surface, forming a layer of scum. Effluent is sent to the rear compartment by baffles and screens. In order to sink into the earth, wastewater must first pass through an effluent filter and then via leach lines.

Tip

Millions of bacteria live in septic tanks and drains. The bacteria are responsible for the breakdown of waste in the systems. As a result, a septic system that is excessively clean will be unable to perform correctly. Even two liters of bleach are sufficient to prevent or significantly inhibit the bacteria’s ability to digest waste.

What Are Leach Lines?

Leach lines are referred to by a variety of names, including leach field, leach bed, filter bed, and percolation bed. After passing through the septic tank, leach lines are used to distribute septic effluent into the surrounding soil. Leach pipes are laid out across an open area, generally a backyard, in order to disperse the effluent across the greatest feasible area as quickly as possible. Following its exit from the septic tank, the effluent travels into the leach pipes, trickles out of pores in the pipes, then percolates downhill via gravel and sand, and finally into the surrounding soil.

In order to encourage the final product to seep into the soil, the pipes are either bedded in gravel and sand or covered with plastic septic chambers, depending on the situation.

Signs of Failing or Failed Leach Lines

Sometimes it might be tough to figure out which element of a septic system has failed when one is experiencing problems. Any of the following symptoms can assist you in determining whether or not leach line failure is the source of the problem:

• Identifying which element of a sewage system has broken when a septic system fails can be challenging. It is possible to detect leach line failure as the root cause by looking for any of the indications listed below.

Why Leach Lines Fail

It is theoretically possible to construct an intelligent self-contained system that returns water to the soil and disinfects it biologically. However, in practice, this is not the case. In actuality, because a septic system has so many moving components, anything may go wrong, and leach lines are frequently the cause of these mishaps. If the septic tank was not correctly handled, it is possible that an excessive amount of solid waste was permitted to flow into the leach lines, clogging holes in the pipe or the surrounding ground.

Even if there is no catastrophic occurrence, it is possible that your leach field has simply reached the end of its normal life cycle. The lifetime of a leach field is typically 15 to 25 years, however other estimates put the figure closer to 25 to 30 years.

How to Replace Leach Lines

It is recommended that you hire a professional to handle the replacement of leach lines, as is the case with the majority of septic tank tasks and concerns.

1. Replacing leach lines should be handled by a professional, just as it should be with other septic tank jobs and problems.

How long are septic drain lines?

A normal septic-drainfield trench is around 150 feet in length, although we have seen installations that were three times that length. Septic-drainfield trench width: A typical septic-drainfield trench is about 150 feet in width. According to some authors, the maximum septic trenchline is 100 feet long. The most practical response is that it varies – on the place and the soil conditions. If there are no missteps, such as those discussed in this article, a field like this may persist anywhere from 10 to 20 years.

1. Furthermore, is it possible to construct structures above septic lines?
2. It is not recommended to build permanent structures above septicfieldlines due to the high amounts of moisture present and the necessity for open air circulation.
3. Structures with foundations may be able to trap moisture beneath the structure’s foundation.
4. A percolation test may be required in order to determine the size of the absorptionfield for one of the factors.

1. The water consumption is 3×120 = 360 gallons per day
2. 360/0.4 = 900 square feet of conventional trench bottom
3. 900/2 = 450 lineal feet of traditional trenches utilizing 4-inch perforated PVC and gravel
4. 3×120 = 360 gallons per day

How can I tell if my drain field is in terrible shape? Some signs of a failing drainfield include the following: the grass is greener overthedrainfieldthan in other parts of the yard; scents in the yard; clogged drainpipes; and ground that is damp or mushy over thedrainfield. It is likely that there will be standing water in the laterals as well.

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Prior to discharging wastewater into the environment, several alternative systems are designed to evaporate or disinfect the effluent.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

1. All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.

A septic tank is where all of the water drains from your home through a single main drainage line. An underground, watertight container, often built of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its role is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to settle to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. It is also known as a settling tank. T-shaped outlets and compartments prevent sludge and scum from exiting the tank and migrating into the drainfield region.

• An excavation built in unsaturated soil, the drainfield is shallow and covered.
• As wastewater percolates through the soil and eventually discharges into groundwater, the soil takes, processes, and disperses it.
• Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients.
• As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of contamination.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system. If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

• You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

• Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
• Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
• Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

• Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
• It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement
• A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield

A Beginner’s Guide to Septic Systems

• Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses. It is most noticeable in dry times when the drainfield is lush and green. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement. A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield
• And

Septic systems, also known as on-site wastewater management systems, are installed in a large number of buildings and houses. It is easy to lose sight of septic systems, which operate quietly, gracefully, and efficiently to protect human and environmental health due to their burying location. Septic systems are the norm in rural regions, but they may also be found in a lot of metropolitan places, especially in older buildings. It is critical to understand whether or not your building is on a septic system.

Is Your Home or Building on a Septic System?

It is possible that the solution to this question will not be evident. If a structure looks to be connected to a sewage system, it may instead be connected to a septic system. It is fairly unusual for tenants to be unaware of the final destination of the wastewater generated by their residence. Some of the hints or signs listed below will assist in determining whether the facility is served by a septic system or whether it is supplied by a sewer system:

• Sewer service will be provided at a cost by the city or municipality. Pay close attention to the water bill to see whether there is a cost labeled “sewer” or “sewer charge” on it. If there is a fee for this service, it is most likely because the facility is connected to a sewage system. Look up and down the street for sewage access ports or manholes, which can be found in any location. If a sewage system runs in front of a property, it is probable that the house is connected to it in some way. Inquire with your neighbors to see if they are connected to a sewer or septic system. The likelihood that your home is on a sewer system is increased if the properties on each side of you are on one as well. Keep in mind, however, that even if a sewage line runs in front of the structure and the nearby residences are connected to a sewer system, your home or building may not be connected to one. If the structure is older than the sewer system, it is possible that it is still on the original septic system. Consult with your local health agency for further information. This agency conducts final inspections of septic systems to ensure that they comply with applicable laws and regulations. There is a possibility that they have an archived record and/or a map of the system and will supply this information upon request

All property owners should be aware of whether or not their property is equipped with an on-site wastewater treatment system.

Georgia law mandates that the property owner is responsible for the correct operation of a septic system, as well as any necessary maintenance and repairs.

Locating the Septic Tank and Drainfield

Finding a septic system may be a difficult process. They can be buried anywhere in the yard, including the front, back, and side yards. After a few years, the soil may begin to resemble the surrounding soil, making it impossible to distinguish the system from the surrounding soil. It is possible that in dry weather, the grass will be dryer in the shallow soil over the tank and greener over the drainfield, where the cleansed water will be released, but this is not always the case, especially in hot weather.

• The contractor who built the house should have presented the initial owner with a map showing the tank and drainfield locations, according to the building code.
• The installation of the system, as well as any modifications made to it, would have been examined by your local health authority.
• Unfortunately, if the system is very old, any records related with it may be insufficient or nonexistent, depending on the situation.
• Look for the point at where the wastewater pipes join together if the building is on a crawlspace or has an unfinished basement.
• The sewer line that runs through the structure is referred to as the building sewer.
• To “feel” for the tank, use a piece of re-bar or a similar metal probe.
• If you use this free service, you may avoid accidentally putting a rod through your gas or water line.

Try to locate the tank after a rainstorm, when the metal probe will be more easily maneuvered through moist dirt.

This should be done with care; extreme caution should be exercised to avoid puncturing the building sewer.

A tank is normally 5 by 8 feet in size, however the dimensions might vary.

Be aware that there may be rocks, pipes, and other debris in the area that “feels” like the tank but is not in fact part of the tank.

However, it is possible to have the lid or access port positioned on a riser in addition to being on the same level as the top of the tank in some cases.

Once the tank has been identified, make a rough drawing of its placement in relation to the house so that it will not be misplaced again!

It may be easier to discover the drainage lines now that the tank has been identified, particularly if the area has been subjected to prolonged periods of drought.

How a Septic System Works

Typical sewage treatment system (figure 1). It is composed of three components (Figure 1): the tank, the drain lines or discharge lines, and the soil treatment area (also known as the soil treatment area) (sometimes called a drainfield or leach field). The size of the tank varies according to the size of the structure. The normal home (three bedrooms, two bathrooms) will often include a 1,000-gallon water storage tank on the premises. Older tanks may only have one chamber, however newer tanks must have two chambers.

1. The tank functions by settling waste and allowing it to be digested by microbes.
2. These layers include the bottom sludge layer, the top scum layer, and a “clear” zone in the center.
3. A typical septic tank is seen in Figure 2.
4. It is fortunate that many of the bacteria involved are found in high concentrations in the human gastrointestinal tract.
5. Although the bacteria may break down some of the stuff in the sludge, they are unable to break down all of it, which is why septic tanks must be cleaned out every three to seven years.
6. In addition, when new water is introduced into the septic tank, an equal volume of water is pushed out the discharge lines and onto the drainfield.
7. The water trickles out of the perforated drain pipes, down through a layer of gravel, and into the soil below the surface (Figure 3).
8. A typical drainfield may be found here.
9. Plants, bacteria, fungus, protozoa, and other microorganisms, as well as bigger critters such as mites, earthworms, and insects, flourish in soil.
10. Mineralogical and metallic elements attach to soil particles, allowing them to be removed from the waste water.

Maintaining a Septic System

The most typical reason for a septic system to fail is a lack of proper maintenance. Septic systems that are failing are expensive to repair or replace, and the expense of repairs rests on the shoulders of the property owner (Figure 4). Fortunately, keeping your septic system in good working order and avoiding costly repairs is rather simple. Figure 4. Septic system failure is frequently caused by a lack of proper maintenance. It is in your best interests to be aware of the location of the system, how it operates, and how to maintain it.

1. You should pump the tank if you aren’t sure when the last time it was pumped.
2. It is not permissible to drive or park over the tank or drainage field.
3. No rubbish should be disposed of in the sink or the toilet.
4. It’s important to remember that garbage disposals enhance the requirement for regular pumping.
5. When designing a landscape, keep the septic system in mind.
6. It is also not recommended to consume veggies that have been cultivated above drainfield lines (see Dorn, S.
7. Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields.

C 1030).

Any water that enters your home through a drain or toilet eventually ends up in your septic system.

Don’t put too much strain on the system by consuming a large amount of water in a short period of time.

Additives should not be used.

Various types of additives are available for purchase as treatment options, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenator and boosters, among other things.

To break up oil and grease and unclog drains, chemical additives are available for purchase.

Pumping out the septic tank is not eliminated or reduced by using one of these systems.

They remain floating in the water and travel into the drainfield, where they may block the pipes. Acids have the potential to damage concrete storage tanks and distribution boxes.

Signs a Septic System is Failing

The most typical reason for a septic system to fail is a lack of upkeep. The expense of repairing or replacing a failing septic system is borne by the property owner, who bears the burden of the repairs (Figure 4). Fortunately, keeping your septic system in good condition and avoiding costly repairs is rather simple. Failure of a septic system is frequently caused by improper maintenance (see Figure 4). The knowledge of where the system is, how it operates, and how to maintain it is essential for your safety.

1. You should pump the tank if you aren’t sure when the last time it was done.
2. Avoid driving or parking in the vicinity of the tank or drainage field.
3. No rubbish should be disposed of in the sink or in the toilet!
4. Recall that garbage disposals increase the frequency with which you must pump your system.
5. When designing a landscape, keep the septic system in mind.
6. In addition, eating veggies that have been cultivated above drainfield lines is not a good idea (see Dorn, S.
7. Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields.

C 1030).

Septic systems collect all of the water that flows down drains and toilets.

Never put too much strain on the system by consuming large quantities of water in a short period of time.

Use of additives is strictly prohibited.

Various types of additives are available for purchase as treatment options, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenator and boosters, among other uses.

To break up oil and grease and unclog drains, chemical additives are marketed on the marketplace.

Pumping out the septic tank is not eliminated or reduced by using one of these methods.

These microscopic particles remain floating in the water and migrate into the drainfield, where they may block the lines. Acids have the potential to erode concrete storage tanks and distribution boxes, among other things.

• The most prevalent reason for septic system failure is a lack of proper maintenance. Septic systems that are failing are expensive to repair or replace, and the expense of repairs is borne by the property owner (Figure 4). Fortunately, it is extremely simple to keep your septic system in good working order and prevent costly repairs. Figure 4. Septic system failure is frequently caused by improper maintenance. It is in your best advantage to be aware of the location of the system, how it operates, and how to maintain it. Maintain your tank by having it examined and pumped on a regular basis, ideally every three to seven years. If you are unsure when the tank was last pumped, pump it nonetheless. It’s possible that previous property owners failed to complete this crucial step. It is not permissible to drive or park over the tank or drainfield. This may cause damage to or collapse of the tank or drain lines, as well as compaction of the soil, which will reduce the efficacy of the drainfield. Use of sinks or toilets as trashcans is strictly prohibited. When you dump things down the toilet or into the sink like cooking oil or paper towels or hygiene products or household chemicals or paint, or kitty litter or coffee grounds, or cigarette butts, you will increase the sludge layer in the tank and, at the very least, you will have to pump it more frequently. Keep in mind that garbage disposals enhance the requirement for regular pumping. In addition to adding to the amount of sludge in the tank, eggshells, bones, and vegetables do not digest efficiently. When designing the landscaping, keep the septic system in mind. Roots from trees and shrubs can grow into drain lines and even into the tank. Furthermore, it is not recommended to consume crops cultivated above drainfield lines (see Dorn, S. 2013. Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields. University of Georgia Cooperative Extension. C 1030). Make prudent use of water. Any water that enters your home through a drain or toilet will end up in your septic system. Fix dripping faucets and leaking toilets to avoid a water overflow. Don’t put too much strain on the system by utilizing a lot of water in a short period of time. Be aware that a flooded drainfield may not have the capacity to handle numerous loads of laundry on a rainy day. It is not necessary to apply additives. Additives are discouraged by the state of Georgia Department of Public Health, and scientific investigations have found no evidence to justify their usage in septic systems. Additives are marketed as treatments, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenators, and boosters, among other things. Biological additives are manufactured from bacteria, yeast, or enzymes and are supplied as starting agents or as help in ongoing maintenance. Chemical additives are available for purchase to break up oil and grease and unclog drains. Additives will not jump start a system that has just been installed or recently pumped. They do not remove or lessen the requirement to pump out the septic tank. In reality, chemical solvents have the ability to break down materials into tiny particles that do not sink to the bottom of the tank. They remain floating in the water and migrate into the drainfield, where they may block up the lines. Acids have the potential to damage concrete tanks and distribution containers.

If you notice any of these indicators, you should notify your local health department immediately. An environmentalist from the health department can assist in identifying possible hazards. There are also listings of state-certified contractors available from the local health department, who may do repairs. Repairs or alterations to the system must be approved by the health department and examined by an inspector. Keep an eye out for any meetings that may take place between a health department inspector and a contractor to discuss repairs to your system.

• Household garbage that has not been properly handled is released into the environment when systems fail.
• It has the potential to pollute surrounding wells, groundwater, streams, and other sources of potable water, among other things.
• The foul odor emanating from a malfunctioning system can cause property values to plummet.
• Briefly stated, broken systems can have an impact on your family, neighbors, community, and the environment.
• Septic systems are an effective, attractive, and reasonably priced method of treating and disposing of wastewater.

Figures 2 and 3 reprinted with permission from: CIDWT. 2009. Installation of Wastewater Treatment Systems. Consortium of Institutes for Decentralized Wastewater Treatment. Iowa State University, Midwest Plan Service. Ames, IA.

History of the current status and revisions Published on the 15th of August, 2013. Published on March 28th, 2017 with a full review.

How to Find My Septic Tank Lines

Credit: Petegar/E+/Getty Images for the image

In This Article

• Septic System Fundamentals
• Identifying and Locating a Septic Tank on Your Property
• Conducting Regular Inspections
• Checking for Clean-Outs
• Identifying Natural Indicators
• Viewing System Diagrams
• Seek Professional Assistance
• Check the distribution box
• Understand the size and scope of the project.

Are you curious about the location of your septic lines? It is critical to know where the septic tank is located on a property in order to properly manage and preserve the system. For example, you don’t want to pave over the ground or grow trees too close together in a forest. It is possible to obtain a copy of the septic tank diagram of the drain field, which will give you a fair sense of where the pipes will go. If this is not the case, you may need to attempt some other methods of locating septic drain lines.

The solids and liquids are separated within the tank by a baffle or wall that is built inside the tank.

When pipes get clogged or when drain fields become too saturated with fluids, problems arise.

Locating a Septic Tank on Your Property

Begin your search for the septic tank lines at the residence first. Drain lines from the home’s plumbing should be traced to the septic tank, which is typically located 10 to 20 feet from the home’s exterior. The drain line connects the tank’s end, which is located opposite the house, to the leach field. Check the natural slope of the ground to see whether the leach field may be found there. It is never a good idea to look for drain lines using heavy gear, wrecking bars, or jackhammers. Before excavating, contact your local electric utility provider or gas company to determine the location of underground gas or utility lines.

A septic tank probe can also assist you in locating the tank’s position. Plunge the long, thin metal probe into the earth until you can feel it strike the tank and feel the tank’s edges. This might assist you in locating the pipes that lead away from the tank.

Perform Regular Inspection

According to industry experts, you should examine your septic tanks and, if required, pump them out once every three years. If you are experiencing gurgling sounds in your house or water backing up after your system has been repaired, a saturated drain field might be the source of the problem. Drain fields that have been clogged or damaged are unable to be rectified. In order for the septic system to function properly again, you’ll need to have a new drain field installed. Find capped clean-outs that are a few inches vertically above the ground in the leach field itself, or check behind a wall or in a closet in the basement for capped clean-outs.

• You can visually trace the orientation of the pipe from the clean-out if there is no other information available.
• Credit: Kyryl Gorlov/iStock/Getty Images for the image.
• When you are looking for the lines, look for grass or vegetation that greens in stripes when the grass surrounding it browns.
• Putting hot water into your system might cause snow or ice to melt above the drain pipes if the system is not properly insulated.
• If you have a deep system, as is the case for homes with basements, you will most likely not be able to observe natural signs since the drain field is too deep to be seen from above.
• Unless the system was built without a permit, the blueprints or designs for septic system installations are kept on file with the local health authority until the system is operational.
• If your search does not provide any relevant results, you can request a record search based on your street address or the tax account number associated with the property.
• If the agency has a copy of the record, they will mail it to you.
• If you don’t have a drawing of the septic system, you need enlist the assistance of a disposal system contractor or a certified liquid waste transporter to find it.

Another option is to purchase a flushable transmitter from a plumbing or rental business, or you may contract with a tank cleaning firm. The signal from the transmitter is picked up by a hand-held receiver after it has been flushed down the toilet.

Check the Distribution Box

Inspecting your septic tank every three years, and pumping it out if required, is recommended by experts in this field. If you are experiencing gurgling sounds in your house or water backing up after your system has been repaired, a saturated drain field might be the source of your problems. Drain fields that have been clogged or damaged are irreparable. The septic system will not be able to function properly until a new drain field is built. Look for capped clean-outs that sit vertically above the ground a few inches in the leach field itself, or look behind a wall or in a closet in the basement to see if any are there.

1. You can visually trace the orientation of the pipe from the clean-out if you don’t have any other information.
2. Kyryl Gorlov/iStock/Getty Images is credited with this image.
3. Lines can also be distinguished by noticing grass or vegetation that grows in stripes as the grass around it browns.
4. Hot water running through your system might cause snow or ice to melt over the drain pipes if the system is not properly maintained.
5. You will not be able to detect natural signs if you have a deep system, which is common in homes with basements.
6. However, if you notice a bad odor, the system is most likely in need of maintenance, regardless of how deep the stink is originating.
7. It is common for septic tank lateral lines diagrams to show the location, layout, components, and any other features of the drain field.
8. Send your “Request for Copy of Septic System Drawing” form to your local health department, along with a copy of your septic system drawings.
9. If none of these options are successful, contact the prior owner of the residence.
10. When looking for a septic tank, first look for the configuration of the drain field lines, and then look for anything else that could be relevant.

A flushable transmitter can also be purchased from a plumbing or rental business, as well as from a tank cleaning firm. The signal from the transmitter is picked up by a hand-held receiver once it has been flushed down the toilet.

How Long Does a Septic Leach Field Last?

A Septic Leach Field is expected to last for several years. How Long Do Leach Fields Remain Effective? The longevity of a septic tank leach field can vary depending on a number of different factors, including: A well-constructed and well-maintained leach field should last 20 to 25 years under normal conditions. It has the potential to last for 50 years or more. A leach field has the potential to outlast numerous owners of a house or piece of land. Natural catastrophes and severe weather may cause significant damage to leach fields in a short period of time.

What does a leach field do?

For How Long Does a Septic Leach Field Remain in Service? Is It Possible to Restore Leach Fields? Numerous factors can influence the longevity of a septic tank leach field. In most cases, a leach field that has been properly constructed and maintained will last 20-25 years or longer. It has the potential to survive for 50 years or maybe longer than that. It is possible for a leach field to outlive numerous owners of a house or piece of land. Natural catastrophes and severe weather can do significant damage to leach fields in a short period of time, so be prepared.

• For How Long Does a Septic Leach Field Remain in Use? How Long Do Leach Fields Remain Active? A variety of factors can influence the longevity of a septic tank leach field. A well constructed and managed leach field should last 20 to 25 years. It has the potential to survive for 50 years or beyond. A leach field has the potential to outlive numerous owners of a house or piece of land. Natural calamities and severe weather may cause leach fields to be severely damaged in an instant. Neglect or other man-made concerns can cause damage to a leach field and septic system, as well as limit its lifespan.

Mistakes and what to avoid with a leach field

Things that can damage or block a pipe, tank, or anything else in the system can cause damage to a leach field in a short period of time or over an extended period of time, beginning with the home itself. Over the course of several years or decades, this can result in a reduction in the useful life of a leach field. The improper usage of toilets and sinks might result in material being dumped onto a field that was not intended for it. Using harsh, ineffective, or chemically harmful cleansers or chemicals, especially over a long period of time, can cause corrosion to occur in metal parts.

Take into consideration the consequences of what you’re throwing into it.

It is not permissible to park automobiles, drive vehicles on, or place heavy objects or goods on any area of a leach field without the permission of the landowner.

If gravel, sandy soil, or topsoil are utilized, any shifting or wear might result in harm to the structure or a reduction in the efficiency of the building.

Over time, tree roots can cause significant harm. This means that the field’s original soil, slope, and drainage capabilities may be accidentally altered as a result of these actions. The scent of a septic leach field

How do you know it’s time to repair or replace a leach field?

When it comes to checking the leach field, a professional should do it in the same method and on the same timetable as they do when it comes to checking the tank or other components of the sewer or plumbing system. It should be examined whenever a tank has to be pumped out. It is unavoidable that a leach field will require extensive maintenance or will fail over the period of 20, 30, 40, or even more years. Natural sources of damage, whether caused by a sudden calamity or over a long period of time via wear and tear, are common.

As waste passes through the system, certain solids will accumulate in a field, even if the field is well-maintained.

The amounts of water in the reservoir and the quality of the soil might fluctuate over time.

Even more signs may manifest themselves as slow drainage, a tank that backups or clogs more frequently than usual, a tank that requires pumping more frequently than usual maintenance, more problems or smells when it rains, a sinking spot in the yard, or greener grass in a specific spot or area of the yard.

It’s a good idea to keep up with the latest developments in the field with the help of specialists as much as feasible.

Remember that South End Plumbing specialists in clog removal, and that we are only a click away.

South End Plumbing is one of the few organizations that will provide you with a no-obligation quote.

Drainfield Size & Design

• The percolation rate of a soil is an essential soil feature that measures how long it takes water to descend one inch in a saturated hole drilled in the ground.

• In sandy soil, 1 inch can be achieved in 3 minutes
• In clay soil, 1 inch may be achieved in 48 minutes.

• If it takes less than 5 minutes for water to drop 1 inch in a saturated hole, the effluent will flow too quickly for it to be adequately treated, as is the case with sandy soil. If it takes more than 60 minutes for the water to drop one inch, the effluent will not be able to travel as quickly as it should, and effluent may rise to the top of the water table. This is something that may happen in clay soil.

Drainfield Size

• According to the number of bedrooms and soil qualities, the drainfield is measured in square feet, and its size is reported in square feet. It has been determined by the Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality (NDEQ) how many square feet of drainfield trench will be required. Title 124 of the North Dakota Department of Environmental Quality (NDEQ) contains the design, operation, and maintenance requirements for on-site wastewater treatment systems
• The table below is an excerpt from that title. A three-bedroom house with a mid-range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch, for example, requires a minimum of 750 square feet of space to function properly.

Square Feet of Drain Field Trench Required for Single Family Dwelling

Number of Bedrooms	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	9
Perc Rate in Minutes Per Inch	200 gpd	300 gpd	400 gpd	500 gpd	600 gpd	700 gpd	800 gpd	900 gpd	1000 gpd

5Systems must be constructed with a 12 inch loamy sand liner that has a percolation rate of 15 to 20 minutes per inch and should be developed at a percolation rate of 11-20 minutes per inch, with a percolation rate of 15 to 20 minutes per inch.

5-10	165	330	495	660	825	990	1155	1320	1485
11-20	210	420	630	840	1050	1260	1470	1680	1890
21-30	250	500	750	1000	1250	1500	1750	2000	2250
31-40	275	550	825	1100	1375	1650	1925	2200	2475
41-50	330	660	990	1320	1650	1980	2310	2640	2970
51-60	350	700	1050	1400	1750	2100	2450	2800	3150

60Systems must be developed by a licensed professional engineer or architect. A building permit is required. 017.02 In order to determine the needed square footage for enterprises, the following equation should be used: The daily design flow divided by the number of hours in the day (Five divided by the square root of the percolation rate).

017.03 In order to calculate the absorption area for a bed, first determine the needed square footage for a trench and then multiply the required square footage by the factor from Table 14.2.

How a Septic System Works – and Common Problems

This Article Discusses Septic Tanks are a type of septic tank that is used to dispose of waste. Field Sizing and System MaintenanceProblems with the Leach FieldSystem Performance Questions and comments are welcome. See Also: Septic System Frequently Asked Questions Articles on SEPTIC SYSTEM may be found here. In locations where there are no municipal sewage systems, each residence is responsible for treating its own sewage on its own property, which is known as a “on-site sewage disposal system,” or septic system, more popularly.

One of the most commonly seen types of leach field is composed of a series of perforated distribution pipes, each of which is placed in a gravel-filled absorption trench.

SEPTIC TANK

The wastewater is collected in the septic tank once it has been discharged from the residence. Septic tanks are normally between 1,000 and 2,000 gallons in capacity and are composed of concrete, strong plastic, or metal, depending on the model. Highly durable concrete tanks, which should endure for 40 years or more provided they are not damaged, are the most common. Many contemporary tanks are designed with two chambers in order to maximize efficiency. Household wastewater is collected in the septic tank, where it is separated and begins to degrade before being discharged into the leach field.

• In the tank, oil and grease float to the top of the tank, where they are known as scum, while solid waste falls to the bottom, where they are known as sludge.
• Bacteria and other microorganisms feed on the sediments at the bottom of the tank, causing them to decompose in an anaerobic (without oxygen) process that begins at the bottom of the tank.
• Solids and grease must be pushed out of the system on a regular basis in order for it to continue to function effectively.
• Each gallon added to the tank results in one gallon being discharged to the leach field, leach pit, or other similar treatment facility.

A large amount of water delivered too rapidly to the tank may discharge untreated effluent, along with oil and particulates, into the leach field, where it may block the field and cause a backup.

Leach Field

When used properly, a leach field (also known as a “drain field”) is a series of perforated pipes that are typically buried in gravel trenches 18 to 36 inches below grade — deep enough to avoid freezing, but close enough to the surface that air can reach the bacteria that further purify the effluent (see illustration below). As little as 6 inches might separate you from the ground surface, depending on your soil type and municipal regulations. It is customary to cover the perforated pipes with approximately two inches of gravel and a layer of topsoil that is 18 to 24 inches in depth.

• Grass is often sown above the ground.
• The leach field is comprised of rows of perforated pipes in gravel trenches that are used to spread wastewater over a vast area in order to further purify it.
• A bacteria-rich slime mat forms where the gravel meets the soil, and it is responsible for the majority of the water purification work.
• Despite the fact that wastewater freezes at a far lower temperature than pure water, freezing is still a hazard in cold areas.
• The leftover pathogens are converted into essential plant nutrients by these organisms, while sand, gravel, and soil filter out any solids that remain.
• If the system is operating effectively, the filtered wastewater will return to the aquifer as naturally clean water that is suitable for human consumption at this stage.
• Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.
• Special systems may also be necessary in regions where there are flood plains, bodies of water, or other ecologically sensitive areas to protect against flooding.

SIZING THE LEACH FIELD

When used properly, a leach field (also known as a “drain field”) is a series of perforated pipes that are typically buried in gravel trenches 18 to 36 inches below grade — deep enough to prevent freezing, but close enough to the surface to allow air to reach the bacteria that further purify the effluent (see illustration below). As little as 6 inches might separate you from the ground surface, depending on your soil type and municipal laws. Approximately two inches of gravel and a topsoil layer, generally 18 to 24 inches deep, are placed over the perforated pipes to protect them.

• Most of the time, grass is planted above the surface.
• As part of the purification process, the effluent is distributed across a vast area using rows of perforated pipes set in gravel trenches.
• In the perforated pipes, the effluent is channeled into the surrounding gravel and then into the native soil.
• Because freezing will impede the bacterial action that is necessary for the system to function, all elements conveying liquid must be buried deeply enough to prevent freezing.
• A little amount of the leftover liquid, which contains minute suspended particulates, percolates into the native soil, where it is treated by bacteria and other microscopic animals that live in the soil to complete the process.
• While a portion of the liquid evaporates into the atmosphere, the remaining portion is absorbed by plant roots (Figure 1).
• In fact, it’s a fairly clever approach that takes full use of nature’s extremely successful method for recycling organic waste.

A standard system might cost two or three times as much as a high-end system, and they require more frequent servicing. Flood plains, bodies of water, and other environmentally sensitive places may need the use of specialized technologies.

SEPTIC SYSTEM CAREMAINTENANCE REQUIRED

If you take good care of your system, you will be rewarded with years of trouble-free operation. Pumping the septic tank on a regular basis is necessary to remove the particles (sludge) and grease layer (scum) that have built up in the tank. The solids will ultimately overflow and spill into the leach field, decreasing its efficacy and diminishing its lifespan if this is not done. The rehabilitation of a clogged leach field is difficult, if not impossible; thus, constant pumping is essential!

1. Cooking fats, grease, and particles may also wash into the leach field if the tank is too small for the amount of water being used or if the tank is overcrowded on a regular basis.
2. Extra water from excessive residential consumption or yard drainage can overwhelm the system, transporting oil and particles into the leach field and causing it to overflow.
3. In addition, don’t try to complete a week’s worth of laundry for a family of five in a single day.
4. To minimize overburdening the system, the following measures should be taken:

• Distribute your washing loads and other high-water-use activities across the week
• And In the kitchen and bathroom, use low-flow appliances, faucets, and fixtures. Toilets, in general, are the source of the greatest amount of water use. Water should be diverted away from the leach field from the yard, gutters, and basement sump pumps.

In addition, refrain from flushing sediments, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biological waste and white toilet paper. Avoid using garbage disposals in the kitchen. If you really must have one, keep it for small non-meat bits only. Avoid flushing chemicals or paints down the toilet since many chemicals can destroy beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. Avoid flushing the following down the toilet:

• In addition, refrain from flushing solids, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biodegradable trash and white toilet tissue. Use of garbage disposals should be avoided. Only use it for small non-meat leftovers, if you really must have one. Chemicals and paints should not be flushed down the toilet since many of them might kill beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. These items should not be flushed down the toilet.

It is preferable to put grass over the leach field and to refrain from driving or parking in the vicinity. Excessive weight placed on top of the drain field might compress the earth, diminishing its efficiency as a drain field. Drain pipes can also become clogged by trees and plants with invasive roots. In order to prevent damage to the leach field, the following measures should be taken:

• Heavy machinery should not be driven, parked, or stored on top of the leach field (or septic tank). Placement of a deck, patio, pool, or any other sort of construction over the leach field is prohibited. Remove any large trees or other plants with deep roots from the leach field. Grass is the most effective groundcover.

Even with careful use and routine maintenance, however, leach fields are not guaranteed to survive indefinitely. It is inevitable that the soil will get saturated with dissolved elements from the wastewater, and that the soil will be unable to absorb any more incoming water. The presence of an odorous wet area over the leach field, as well as plumbing backups in the house, are frequently the first indicators that something is wrong. Many municipalities mandate septic system designs to incorporate a second “reserve drain field” in the case that the first field fails.

A well constructed and maintained system should last for at least 20 to 30 years, if not longer than that. After a few tears, the initial field will naturally heal and may be used once again when the situation calls for it to be. More information on Septic System Maintenance may be found here.

SEPTIC SYSTEM PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

But even with careful use and routine maintenance, leach fields are not guaranteed to survive indefinitely. When the soil becomes clogged with dissolved components from the wastewater, it will be unable to absorb any more water from the incoming water supply. When anything is wrong, the first indicators that something is wrong are frequently an odorous wet area over the leach field or plumbing backups within the home. As a result of the presumption that the first field will ultimately fail, several jurisdictions mandate septic system designs to incorporate a second “reserve drain field.” A well constructed and maintained system should last for at least 20 to 30 years, if not much longer than that.

Septic System Maintenance is discussed in further detail here: