How Do You Build Septic Tank Systems? (Correct answer)

• Building a Septic Tank System The first step of the building process is to create a basic layout of the septic system. This layout is used to transfer your building plans to the ground. The Layout and location of all the different parts of the septic design must be projected onto the site.

What are the 3 types of septic systems?

Types of Septic Systems

• Septic Tank.
• Conventional System.
• Chamber System.
• Drip Distribution System.
• Aerobic Treatment Unit.
• Mound Systems.
• Recirculating Sand Filter System.
• Evapotranspiration System.

What are the 2 types of septic systems?

There are two basic septic system types — conventional and alternative. Site and soil conditions generally determine the type of system that should be installed.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

How big of a septic tank do I need?

The larger your home, the larger the septic tank you’re going to need. For instance, a house smaller than 1,500 square feet usually requires a 750 to 1,000-gallon tank. On the other hand, a bigger home of approximately 2,500 square feet will need a bigger tank, more than the 1,000-gallon range.

What is the alternative to a septic tank?

Mound systems work well as alternatives to septic tanks when the soil around your home or building is too dense or too shallow or when the water table is too high. Although they are more expensive and require more maintenance than conventional systems, mound systems are a common alternative.

What is the difference between a septic tank and a septic field?

The septic tank is a buried, water-tight container usually made of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene. The liquid wastewater (effluent) then exits the tank into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered, excavation made in unsaturated soil.

How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?

How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.

What size septic tank do I need for a tiny house?

Tiny homes typically require a 500 to 1,000-gallon septic tank. Though, it’s not always possible to implement a tank of this size. In some states, for example, the minimum tank size is 1,000 gallons. There may be exceptions to this rule if your home is on wheels.

What is the smallest septic tank available?

If you’re looking to install a septic system, the smallest tank size you’re likely to find is 750-gallon, which will accommodate one to two bedrooms. You can also opt for a 1,000-gallon system, which will handle two to four bedrooms.

What is above ground septic?

An above ground septic system, also known as a sand mound septic system, is used for the on-site treatment of sewage when site conditions are not suitable for installing a conventional septic system due to the increased risk of the system failing.

What is the cheapest septic system?

Conventional septic system These conventional septic systems are usually the most affordable, with an average cost of around $3,000.

What is a Class 5 septic system?

Class 5. A sewage system using a holding tank for the retention of on-site sewage and must be emptied by a licensed sewage hauler. A permit is required to install this type of septic system.

How do I calculate the size of my septic drain field?

Drainfield Size

1. The size of the drainfield is based on the number of bedrooms and soil characteristics, and is given as square feet.
2. For example, the minimum required for a three bedroom house with a mid range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch is 750 square feet.

How to Build a DIY Septic Tank System

You may install a septic tank system yourself to save money on the costs of hiring a professional septic designer and digger, which can add up quickly. Even if you design your own DIY septic tank and drainage system from scratch, the cost of installing a new septic system is high. Although it is possible to save money by establishing your own septic tank system, it is not recommended.

Costs of a DIY Septic System

The connection of a waste disposal system to a septic tank is critical for the health and cleanliness of the community. The installation of a septic system will be required if your property is located in an area where there is already no underground sewerage system. The public health fees for permits to construct a septic tank system are determined mostly by the county in which you live, but you will almost certainly be unable to avoid paying the permit charge. In order to establish the retail prices of yourDIY septic system design, which includes the drain field, distribution box, and pipes, you must first determine the price of the building supplies.

When shopping for hardware and home improvement supplies, compare prices amongst different establishments.

On top of that, you’ll have to consider about the excavation as well.

Before You Start Digging

Before you begin the actual building work, it is generally a good idea to do a thorough assessment of the situation. Get yourself a scale map of your home and property before you get your shovel out and start digging about in the dirt. The backyard, below the garage, or any side of the house that is near to a roadway are the greatest places to install a household septic system. The position of the septic system must be determined before any digging can begin. This is a very important phase in the process.

When installing a tank, it is vital that it is done right the first time.

The Site Evaluation

In most jurisdictions, the old perc test has been replaced by a site evaluation as a means of demonstrating to your local health authority the treatment characteristics of your property’s infrastructure.

DIY Perc Testing

In the past, the perc test was performed by simply dumping a pail of water into a tiny hole in the ground and then timed how quickly the water soaked into the soil with a stop-watch. The site inspection is carried out at the bottom of a 6-foot-deep trench. Unlike the perc test, which only measures the absorption speed of a small section of the property, the site evaluation measures the absorption speed of a much larger region over the soil face.

Soil Classification

In the past, the perc test was performed by simply dumping a pail of water into a tiny hole in the ground and then timed how quickly the water soaked up into the soil with a stopwatch.

In a six-foot-deep pit, the site evaluation is carried out. The site evaluation tests a considerably larger region over the soil face, whereas the perc test only gives you the absorption speed of a tiny portion of the land.

Drainfield Trench Size

This does not affect the size of the drainfield, which is independent of the number of bathrooms or fixtures on the property. Almost all health departments employ the following methods to determine the flow rate:

• An individual’s residence’s total number of bedrooms The amount of persons that are present in the residence
• Water use on a daily basis

An individual’s residence’s number of bedrooms how many individuals are present at a given time daily water consumption on a routine basis

Size of The Septic Tank

The size of a septic tank construction is decided by the number of people living in the home or on the land for which it is being built. Consult the metric standards for the area in which the construction is to take place before proceeding. This is the most accurate method of determining the amount of septic tank you should use when constructing your own septic tank system. The size of your DIY septic system will also decide how frequently you will need to have your DIY septic system pumped by a professional septic pumping service, which will be determined by the size of your septic system.

Creating the Drawings

Before we can begin construction on our septic system, we must first develop the necessary designs to fulfill the requirements of your local health authority. Your DIY septic system designs may need to be more detailed than you think they need be, depending on your state’s requirements. All structures, pathways, property borders, retaining walls, and the position of the original test holes, on the other hand, must be clearly depicted.

Drainfield Layout

Your drainfield plan will necessitate the construction of a minimum of two ditches of similar size. The division of the water flow into two, three, or more lines is performed by using a distribution box, also known as a D-box, to split the flow. It is used in the distribution box to distribute water through pipes that include flow control valves in the form of eccentric plugs that distribute the water evenly across several drain lines. The effluent must travel downhill from the tank outlet, past the distribution box, and down the individual trenches before being disposed of.

Apply for a Building Permit

A minimum of two ditches of identical size will be required for your drainfield arrangement. Using a distribution box, often known as a D-box, it is possible to separate a continuous water flow into two, three, or more streams. Drain lines are distributed equally amongst various drain lines by use of pipes fitted with flow control valves in the form of eccentric plugs that are installed in the distribution box. The effluent has to travel downhill from the tank outflow, past the distribution box, and down the individual trenches before being disposed of properly.

Building a Septic Tank System

To begin the construction process, the first step is to sketch up a rough schematic of the septic system.

You’ll utilize this layout to put your construction designs into action on the ground. It is necessary to project the layout and position of all of the different components of the septic design onto the site.

Excavation of the Septic Tank System

When it comes to digging the site in order to prepare for the construction of the septic tank and drain lines, it is important to pay close attention to elevation in order to get the best possible results. The health inspector will need to inspect the job one more time after you have finished all of the excavation before you can begin backfilling. Once you have finished all of the excavating, you will need to schedule another appointment with him for a final inspection of the job before you can begin backfilling.

Backfilling the Septic Tank System

During the building process, all of the tanks, pipelines, and vaults should be backfilled around the perimeter. Your local authority may mandate that all tanks be subjected to vacuum testing, pressure testing, or water testing. Aside from that, an increasing number of counties are demanding leak testing of the tank these days. Consequently, the final backfilling of the concrete tanks can be delayed until after the final inspection to check for leaks has been completed. The final backfilling should not be completed until after the final health department inspection has been completed.

External References

• How to Build a Septic Tank (mightyguide.net)
• How to Build Septic Tank Systems (eco-nomic.com)
• How to Build a Septic Tank System (eco-nomic.com)
• How to Build a Septic Tank (mightyguide.net)
• A Septic Tank: A Step-by-Step Guide (ehow.com)

How to Construct a Small Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation There are two main sections to most private septic systems: the holding and digesting tanks, and the dispersion field or leach field. As the liquid waste in the first holding tank fills up, it will be transferred to the second holding tank. Once the second tank is completely filled with liquid, the liquid will dissipate into the earth underneath it. The system displayed here is a modest system that is intended for limited use by two persons who do not need to do laundry.

1. When compared to a conventional house septic system, this system employs two 55 US gallon (210 L) drums, rather than the 1,000–2,000 US gallon (3,800–7,600 L) tanks that are utilized in a standard home septic system.
2. Property owners considering installing a system similar to this one should be advised that this system would fail inspections by any public health department in the United States, and that the owner may be liable to a fine if the system was discovered in operation by a health official.
3. Toilets that conserve water nowadays utilize less than two litres of water every flush.
4. It might be a lifeline for those who live in areas where septic treatment is not available.

Part 1 of 3: Cutting the Tanks

1. 1Cut a hole in the center of the top of each drum that is the same size as the outer measurement of the toilet flange. Take the outside diameter of the toilet flange that you’re using and multiply it by two. Place the hole close to the edge of the drum so that you may simply connect them to pipes in the near future. Cut the drums using a saber saw to make them lighter
2. 2 Each hole should be capped with a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange. Push the flanges into the top of each tank until they are flush with the surface. As soon as the flanges are in position, tighten them down so they don’t move or shift once they are in place. Advertisement
3. s3 Cut a hole in the first drum that is 4 in (10 cm) in diameter on the opposite side of the drum from the hole in the top. Placing the hole approximately 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) below the top of the drum and ensuring that it lines up with the hole on the top of the tank are the most important steps. 4 Make a hole in the wall with a saber saw or a hole saw. Cut two holes in the side of the drum at 45-degree angles to the center of the hole on the top, one on each side of the drum. The center line is the line that runs through the middle of the hole on the top of the drum. Make 45-degree angles from either side of the centerline, then mark them on the second drum using a permanent marker. Make your holes in the barrel by cutting through the side with a saber or a hole saw and drilling them out. Advertisement

Part 2 of 3: Placing the Tanks Underground

1. 1 Dig a trench that is 4 ft 26 ft 3 ft (1.22 m 7.92 m 0.91 m) in length and width. Excavator or shovel are both good options for digging a hole in the ground where you wish to put your tank. Continue excavating until the hole measures 4 feet (1.2 m) in width, 26 feet (7.9 m) in length, and 3 feet (0.91 m) in depth.

• Excavators for excavating are often available for hire from a heavy machinery supply company. Look for equipment rentals on the internet

1. The majority of heavy machinery supply stores will lend out excavators for excavating jobs. Make use of the internet to look for equipment rentals.

Part 3 of 3: Connecting the Drain Pipes

1. Put a stake into the ground and level it with the bottom of each of the 45-degree bends. 2Put a stake into the ground and level it with the top of the 45-degree bends. It doesn’t matter what sort of stakes you use since they all work. Use a mallet or hammer to pound the stakes into the ground. Attach a one-inch-wide block to the end of a four-foot-long (1.2-meter-long) level using duct tape. This will assist you in ensuring that you create sloped drain pipes so that your tanks can empty
2. 3Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
3. 4Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one
4. 5Place another stake approximately 37 8ft (1.2 m) down the trench from the first one. Drive the stake down until it is the same height as the first one using your hammer or mallet
5. 4 Place the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second stake to complete the level without the block. Continue to pound the second stake into the ground until the level is balanced. 1 inch (2.5 cm) lower than the previous post, or 1 inch (0.64 cm) lower per 1 foot (30 cm)
6. 5Repeat this method until you have stakes running the whole length of the trench
7. Continue to place stakes down the rest of the trench every 37 8feet (1.2 m) from the last one, ensuring that the stakes slope away from the drums
8. 6Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes
9. 7Place gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is level with the top of the stakes The gravel will now slope away from the drums at a rate of 1 4 inch (0.64 cm) per 1 foot (30 cm) of horizontal distance
10. 7Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the second drum
11. 8Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the third drum
12. 9Place 20 ft (6.1 m) of perforated drain pipe into each hole on the fourth drum
13. 10P Insert the ends of the drain pipes into the 45-degree bends on the lower drum to complete the installation. 9Make certain that the perforations in the pipes are facing down so that liquids may soak back into the earth
14. 8checking the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1 4in (0.64 cm) slope is consistent throughout the length of the pipe. Fill up any gaps in the slope by adding or removing gravel under the pipe. Seal the 45-degree and 90-degree bends that connect the lower and top drums, respectively, with silicone. For the greatest seal possible on your drain pipes, use a two-part epoxy or silicone caulk. For this purpose, consider utilizing flex pipe, which will yield a little bit if the ground changes. Tenth, fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of all the gravel. Place the remaining gravel over the trench and into the bottom drum, covering it completely. 11Lay landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. As a result, the dirt will not be able to seep into the gravel and you will be able to keep proper drainage on your tanks
15. 12Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting it to the original grade. When you have finished filling up the area with your dirt, check to see that the ground is level. 13Fill the upper drum with water, leaving the top pipe from the first tank exposed so that you can readily reach the tanks if you need to drain them later. 14Fill the lower drum with water. Fill the top drum with water and pour it directly down the exposed pipes on the bottom drum. Continue filling the drum until it is completely filled, then secure the top with a cap to keep out the elements. Advertisement

Community Q A

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• Question What is considered a low level of use? Low consumption is defined as less than 125 gallons per day. Question Was the ‘y’ elbow on the first tank’s tank for any particular reason? Is it left open or sealed when it has been completed? Isn’t it going to stink if it’s left open? The clean out requires a threaded cap or plug, which is provided. Question What kind of water do you use to fill it? “Fill” is the most important term here. Continue to fill the drum with water until the level does not rise any more
• Question Suppose I neglected to attach a slip coupler to the perforated pipe and only had 10 feet of it. Is it still possible to use this? Yes, however you will need to raise the depth of the field in order to get the same cubic feet of capacity
• Nevertheless Question What is the best way to find out if something is legal in my state? This is a quick and easy approach that is unlikely to be appropriate for long-term usage in the majority of states. It is possible that the property owner and/or the installation will be penalized if this is uncovered. Question Is it possible to utilize two or three 275-gallon water totes instead, or a water tote and barrel combination? It doesn’t matter either direction you go. It’s best to utilize a single tote and a barrel as a digestion tank and a distribution box if you have only one tote. Question What is the purpose of filling the higher barrel with water? You fill the top barrel with water so that when sewage waste is introduced into the barrel, it flows into a sufficient amount of water to initiate the anaerobic digestion process. Question What is the best way to clean up this system? If there is enough bacteria in it, it will clean itself with minimal effort. If it starts to fill up, you may call a septic service to have it emptied
• If it doesn’t, you can do it yourself. Question What is the correct grade slope of the drain field for every ten feet of length of the drain field? It is possible for the field’s bottom to be level. When running away from the drums, the pipe system should be sloped at 2 percent, or 2.5 inches every 10 feet. Question Is it possible for this system to freeze in the winter? And might I use antifreeze in the mix as well? Antifreeze will destroy the beneficial bacteria that are required for the process to function properly. The process is biological, and it will generate some of its own heat as part of the process. It’s always possible to dig a little deeper to gain a little extra insulation above it.

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• The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line
• Instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connection. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than the top. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is several inches deeper towards the bottom. Solids either float or sink depending on their density. They don’t seem to congregate in the middle. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank, and the solids are never seen again. The same procedure should be followed for each of the drainage pipes that originate from the second barrel. Just to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global drain field, the waste is dumped into the first tank, with the solids settling to the bottom of the first tank. Whenever the liquid level exceeds the outfall to the second tank, it is drained into the tank below it. If there are any solids present, they will sink to the bottom. Whenever the liquid from the second tank reaches one of the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion. Over time, the vast majority of the solids will liquefy and disperse. Solids may accumulate at the top of the tank after many years, necessitating the removal of the solids. Thirty percent of the waste is absorbed into the earth, with the remaining seventy percent being dissipated by sunshine. It is important not to compress the soil since this would interfere with the evaporation process
• The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank after it is entirely filled with solids
• The depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one depicted, you will need to dig the trench deeper or shallower to suit the new line depth or height. It’s not that difficult to find out. In the event that you have a septic system that is too shallow, it may be more susceptible to damage. After a period, you may discover that the ground has sunk below the trench’s location. Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it
• It is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipe. In addition, you must have the necessary tools to dig the trench (or be ready to put in a lot of effort).

The horizontal side of the “Y” links to the waste source, and it should be fitted with a connector that is compatible with the source supply line; instead of using a 90° elbow, you should join two of them together to produce a U-shaped connector. In this manner, the end that is in the first barrel will be pointed towards the bottom of the tank, rather than upwards. This should be reinforced with a short segment of straight pipe that is somewhat deeper at the bottom. It is impossible to distinguish between solids that float and solids that sink.

1. As a result, only the broken down liquid waste makes it to the second tank and never the solids.
2. The waste fills the first tank, with the solids sinking to the bottom, in order to be completely certain that no solids find their way into the global leach field; This is where it drains into when it reaches a level that corresponds to the outfall to a second tank.
3. When the liquid from the second tank reaches the two outfalls, it is transported to the gravel leaching field for dispersion.
4. Sediments may accumulate at the top of the tank after several years, necessitating the removal of the solids.
5. Make sure not to compress the soil since this will interfere with the evaporation process; use the “Y” to pump out the tank when it is entirely filled with solids; the depth of the trench should be proportional to the depth of the waste source line.
6. I don’t think it’s that difficult to understand.
7. If you look down where the trench was, you may observe that the ground has sunk.

Fill it in with extra dirt and compact it; it is assumed that you are familiar with working with ABS plastic pipes. Furthermore, you must have the necessary equipment (or be ready to put in a lot of effort) to dig the trench.

Warnings

• This is a system with a relatively limited capacity. This is not intended to suit the demands of a big family or group of people. It is intended for use with a modest travel trailer and two individuals. In order to extend the life of this little septic system, it is recommended that you do not place anything else in it but water, trash, and toilet paper. You may have to pump the upper drum once or twice a year if you don’t do so. During the course of five years, the system depicted here will only require pumping twice. Do not drive through the area where the drums are located. When establishing a septic system, make sure to adhere to all applicable municipal regulations. It is against the law to establish a septic system without first obtaining a permission. In the permission, you can find information on the local regulations for installing a septic system. You should avoid situating a septic system too close to trees since tree roots will grow into your lines, block them, and eventually cause damage to your system.

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Things You’ll Need

• 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
• 80 square feet (7.4 m 2) of landscaping fabric
• 9 cubic yards (6.9 m3) of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums
• 10 feet (3.0 m) of ABS plastic pipe with a diameter of 4 in (10 cm)
• 4 in (10 cm) ABS 90-degree bend
• 4 in (10 cm) ABS Y-bend
• 3 ABS 45-degree bends with sizes of 4 in (10 cm)
• 2 55 US gal (210 L) plastic drums A total of 40 feet (12 meters) of 4 inch (10 cm) perforated drain pipe
• Two 4 inch (10 cm) diameter drain pipe couplers
• And two toilet flanges with 4 inch (10 cm) diameters are included. PVC glue, two-part epoxy or silicone sealant, a level, and ten wood stakes are all required. 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block
• Duct tape
• 4 in (10 cm) ABS detachable cap
• 1 in (2.5 cm) thick wood block

About This Article

wikiHow Staff Writer contributed to this article. This article was written in part by members of the wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled staff of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is regularly monitored by wikiHow’sContent Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high quality standards. An astounding 2,328,807 people have read this article! Co-authors:53 The most recent update was made on January 15, 2022.

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wikiHow Staff Writer and others contributed to this page. Members of the wikiHow Staff contributed to this page as well. Accuracy and comprehensiveness are checked by our highly skilled team of editors and researchers before being published. The work of our editorial team is meticulously monitored by wikiHow’s Content Management Team, which ensures that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high standards of quality. A total of 2,328,807 people have read this post. Co-authors:53 January 15, 2022 is the most recent update.

Who Needs a Septic Tank?

wikiHow Staff Writer and others contributed to this article. This article was written in part by wikiHow Staff. Our highly skilled team of editors and researchers checks articles for correctness and completeness before publishing them. The work of our editorial staff is regularly monitored by wikiHow’s Content Management Team to ensure that each article is supported by reliable research and fulfills our high quality standards. A total of 2,328,807 people have read this article. Co-authors:53 15th of January, 2022 (latest update).

How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.

Receive Multiple Estimates

Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.

Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit

For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.

Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test. Prior to acquiring the land that you want to utilize for residential purposes, we recommend that you obtain a soil test.

Plan for Excavation

Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home. Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected.

The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank

There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.

Percolation Test

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Building Permit Application

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil conditions. Professionals often only drill a few holes in the suggested leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Excavation and Installation

When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.

Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.

Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.

It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land. The average cost of these systems is roughly $8,000.

Types of Septic Tanks

• Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000

Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are broken or damaged in some other way. Concrete tanks can cost upwards of $2,000, depending on their size. While plastic tanks are cost-effective and easy to maintain, they are also prone to breaking. Approximately $1,200 is what they are worth. Fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, but they are more susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level.

Using Your Septic Tank

It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.

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How to Build a Homemade Septic System

Septic tanks, which are used to treat sewage before allowing it to process and soak into the earth, are available in a variety of designs and sizes. A well constructed septic system, which is often comprised of concrete or plastic, may last anywhere from 15 to 30 years with adequate maintenance. Building a handmade septic system is time-consuming and not for the faint of heart, but it may save a homeowner hundreds to thousands of dollars over the course of the project. How to Construct a Do-It-Yourself Septic System Photograph courtesy of Valerie Loiseleux/E+/Getty Images.

Permits Before Digging

In order to discover if a home-made septic system is suitable in your location, check with your local health department and county government offices first. If they are, make a note of any regulations and get any licenses that may be required before you begin working. You must adhere to the local septic system standards as closely as possible during the construction process, or you may be forced to dig up your system and start over from the beginning later on.

Early Site Planning

You’ll need to consider these factors when determining the ideal location for your septic tank and drainage system: most counties require soil testing to assess the percolation rate (drainage ability) of the soil as well as the seasonal water tables of the land. The optimal location for the septic system will be tested and approved by the local county planning boards and health agencies. County health agencies and planning boards will also provide you with information on how deep you should install your septic tank and drain field pipes.

Consider 75 gallons of septic tank space per person each day as a rough estimate.

Always err on the side of caution and budget an additional 150 gallons a day to account for visitors and other miscellaneous consumption. Make use of a 1,000-gallon tank if at all feasible so that the sludge does not have to be pumped out as frequently as it would with a smaller tank.

Septic Tank Site Preparation

You may dig the septic tank pit yourself using a backhoe or shovel, or you can hire a digger business to do it for you. Even though digging by hand will take more time, doing so will save a few hundred bucks if this is wanted. You may also save money by preparing the hole so that the tank can be dumped in by the person who is delivering it as soon as it arrives. Prefabricated septic tanks start at $600.00 and rise in price in direct proportion to the amount of space they occupy. Connect the drain pipe that leads to the drain field either before or after the tank has been installed in the ground, depending on your preference.

The drain field, where the material from the tank will finally end up, should be at least 10 feet away from the dwelling as well as any body of water, such as a pond or river, where the material would eventually end up.

Septic systems typically require a total drain area of 100 feet in order to function properly.

It is also necessary for the trench to have a very little downhill slope in order for waste to be able to flow out of the drain pipe.

Connections and Finishing Touches

Use a backhoe or shovel to dig the hole for the septic tank. You may also contract with a digger business to do the work for you. Digging by hand will take more time, but it will save a few hundred bucks if that is what is sought. By preparing the pit in advance, you may save money by ensuring that the tank is ready to be put in by the person who will be delivering it. Prefabricated septic tanks start at $600.00 and rise in price in direct proportion to the amount of space they take up in a building.

It may be necessary to bring in sand and deposit it in the pit and around the tank depending on the results of the county’s survey, and if you live in an area with poor drainage, in order to prevent the septic tank from becoming water-logged.

Drain field trenches should be dug in two parts of 50 feet or four sections of 25 feet, depending on how long the drain field will be.

Three to four feet deep and three feet broad are ideal for these trenches to be.

Another important feature of the trench is that it should have a very little downhill slope, allowing waste to flow out of the drain pipe. If you haven’t already, fill the trenches with one foot of gravel or “drainrock” once they’ve been excavated.

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

1. All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.

The Guadalupe-Blanco River Authority has built an animated, interactive model of how a residential septic system works, which you can view here.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system. If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

• You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

• Looking on your home’s “as built” drawing
• Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
• Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

• Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
• It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement
• A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield

Types of Septic Systems

Septic system design and size can differ significantly from one neighborhood to the next, as well as throughout the country, due to a variety of variables. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, closeness to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all considerations to take into consideration. The following are 10 of the most often encountered septic system configurations. It should be noted that this is not an exhaustive list; there are several additional types of septic systems.

• A variety of reasons might cause septic system design and size to differ significantly from one location to another, both inside and outside of your community. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, proximity to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all aspects to consider when making a home purchase. Septic systems come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and the following are the 10 most popular. There are a variety of additional types of septic systems not included in this list.

Septic Tank

This tank is underground and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for receiving and partially treating raw home sanitary wastewater. Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whereas greases and lighter solids float to the surface. The sediments are retained in the tank, while the wastewater is sent to the drainfield for further treatment and dispersion once it has been treated.

Conventional System

Septic tanks and trench or bed subsurface wastewater infiltration systems are two types of decentralized wastewater treatment systems (drainfield). When it comes to single-family homes and small businesses, a traditional septic system is the most common type of system. For decades, people have used a gravel/stone drainfield as a method of water drainage. The term is derived from the process of constructing the drainfield. A short underground trench made of stone or gravel collects wastewater from the septic tank in this configuration, which is commonly used.

Effluent filters through the stone and is further cleaned by microorganisms once it reaches the soil below the gravel/stone trench, which is located below the trench.

In terms of total footprint, gravel and stone systems are very substantial, and therefore may not be appropriate for all residential sites or situations.

Chamber System

Gravelless drainfields have been regularly utilized in various states for more than 30 years and have evolved into a standard technology that has mostly replaced gravel systems. Various configurations are possible, including open-bottom chambers, pipe that has been clothed, and synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene media. Gravelless systems can be constructed entirely of recycled materials, resulting in considerable reductions in carbon dioxide emissions during their lifetime. The chamber system is a type of gravelless system that can be used as an example.

1. The key advantage of the chamber system is the enhanced simplicity with which it can be delivered and built.
2. This sort of system is made up of a number of chambers that are connected to one another.
3. Wastewater is transported from the septic tank to the chambers through pipes.
4. The wastewater is treated by microbes that live on or near the soil.

Drip Distribution System

An effluent dispersal system such as the drip distribution system may be employed in a variety of drainfield configurations and is very versatile. In comparison to other distribution systems, the drip distribution system does not require a vast mound of dirt because the drip laterals are only placed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In addition to requiring a big dosage tank after the sewage treatment plant to handle scheduled dose delivery of wastewater to drip absorption areas, the drip distribution system has one major disadvantage: it is more expensive.

Aerobic Treatment Unit

Aerobic Treatment Units (ATUs) are small-scale wastewater treatment facilities that employ many of the same procedures as a municipal sewage plant. An aerobic system adds oxygen to the treatment tank using a pump. When there is an increase in oxygen in the system, there is an increase in natural bacterial activity, which then offers extra treatment for nutrients in the effluent. It is possible that certain aerobic systems may additionally include a pretreatment tank as well as a final treatment tank that will include disinfection in order to further lower pathogen levels.

ATUs should be maintained on a regular basis during their service life.

Mound Systems

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock might be a good alternative. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was erected. The effluent from the septic tank runs into a pump chamber, where it is pumped to the mound in the amounts recommended. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it continues to be treated. However, while mound systems can be an effective solution for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular care.

Recirculating Sand Filter System

Sand filter systems can be built either above or below ground, depending on the use. The effluent is discharged from the septic tank into a pump compartment. Afterwards, it is pushed into the sand filter. The sand filter is often made of PVC or a concrete box that is filled with a sand-like substance. The effluent is pushed through the pipes at the top of the filter under low pressure to the drain. As the effluent exits the pipelines, it is treated as it passes through the sand filtering system.

However, sand filters are more costly than a standard septic system because they provide a higher level of nutrient treatment and are thus better suited for areas with high water tables or that are adjacent to bodies of water.

Evapotranspiration System

Evaporative cooling systems feature drainfields that are one-of-a-kind. It is necessary to line the drainfield at the base of the evapotranspiration system with a waterproof material. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the atmosphere. At the same time, the sewage never filters into the soil and never enters groundwater, unlike other septic system designs. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are effective. The environment must be desert, with plenty of heat and sunshine, and no precipitation.

Constructed Wetland System

Construction of a manufactured wetland is intended to simulate the treatment processes that occur in natural wetland areas. Wastewater goes from the septic tank and into the wetland cell, where it is treated. Afterwards, the wastewater goes into the media, where it is cleaned by microorganisms, plants, and other media that eliminate pathogens and nutrients. Typically, a wetland cell is constructed with an impermeable liner, gravel and sand fill, and the necessary wetland plants, all of which must be capable of withstanding the constant saturation of the surrounding environment.

The operation of a wetland system can be accomplished by either gravity flow or pressure distribution. As wastewater travels through the wetland, it may escape the wetland and flow onto a drainfield, where it will undergo more wastewater treatment before being absorbed into the soil by bacteria.

Cluster / Community System

In certain cases, a decentralized wastewater treatment system is owned by a group of people and is responsible for collecting wastewater from two or more residences or buildings and transporting it to a treatment and dispersal system placed on a suitable location near the dwellings or buildings. Cluster systems are widespread in settings like rural subdivisions, where they may be found in large numbers.

10 DIY Septic System Plans You Can Build Easily

The installation of a septic system by specialists will cost you several thousand dollars. Why not take use of your spare time or weekend to construct a usable facility on your own time? That’s right; we’re talking about a DIY septic system that’s both basic and extremely functional, all at the same time. Understand the most effective ideas to adopt without exceeding the entire budget.

1. Three-Barrel Assembly

The simple video presentation allows you to set up a cost-effective system in a short amount of time. You’ll need a few empty barrels to collect the garbage that will be generated by the connecting pipelines. Unfortunately, the portrayal is somewhat brief; it simply provides a cursory description of the facility in a few basic lines. It is vital to cut the apertures with great precision in order to keep the assembly in precise alignment. The structuring procedure, on the other hand, is quite straightforward for anyone who is familiar with the fundamentals of plumbing.

2. Off-Grid Septic Cabin

Make a professional-looking installation of your essential septic tank, which you practically completed by yourself. A basic understanding of the fundamental needs of any setup on open ground is provided by this tutorial. The majority of the do-it-yourself effort consists of digging trenches to a certain depth and backfilling them. After you’ve finished excavating, you’ll need to build one drum/barrel using pipes that you found. Simple fittings will connect the empty barrel buried beneath the earth to the PVC pipe that will serve as the intake.

3. Concrete Septic Tank

Support your composting toilet with the most advanced septic system available, constructed entirely of concrete. Using the instructions in this article, you may convert an old composting toilet into a functional subterranean tank. All that is required is the excavation of a pit into which the prefabricated concrete block will be dropped using a crane. Digging trenches at various angles will ensure that the entrance and outflow are entirely separated. Filling the trench bottom with gravel once the perforated pipes have been installed will accomplish the desired result.

However, you may use internet tools to help you make decisions about your tank requirements.

4. Septic System Installation

It’s a long film that covers practically everything that happens on-site during the ongoing procedure. The envisaged system should be able to accommodate garbage from small to moderately sized dwellings, depending on their size. You will be responsible for digging trenches to connect the base pipe to the main bathroom line. And the pipe is routed directly into a holding barrel, which is secured firmly with a rubberized band around the edge of it.

Despite the fact that it looks to be a professional DIY plumbing work, the entire process is straightforward. It will take more time to complete the secondary requirements than it will to dig a larger trench on the other side.

5. Retreat Property Septic System

It is possible to create a simple septic system on your property by using some well-conditioned garbage cans. The assembly is made possible by keeping the can vertical and in an upright posture. After digging the desired dirt, you must connect three-inch PVC pipes to the existing infrastructure. Rather than showing the construction process, the film begins with a description of the technology. Anyone who wants to grasp certain points in a speech must pay attention to the current debate. Although it appears to be simple to idealize a design, you do not have to ignore the reality when it comes to accuracy.

6. Off-Grid Septic System

Make your own small-scale off-grid septic system for the house out of materials you already have. When you consider that you will be working with brand new materials, the initial cost may appear to be a little exorbitant. The essential tools, equipment, and materials are discussed in further detail in the next section of the introduction. The onscreen live commentary should keep you interested for the whole 19-minute duration of this presentation. Its whole procedure, including the obvious facts, is documented in order to make the video longer.

7. Aerated Sewage System

A functioning wastewater system helps you manage your sewagenature while you’re doing it. A facility consisting of five interconnecting containers should be able to accommodate a large number of users. The first two containers continue to be anaerobic, but the third and fourth containers are completely aerobic. You’ll also need to chlorinate the fifth container to ensure that all bacteria are eliminated. One important point to note is that the containers must be installed on a flat surface. Simple explanatory comments should be plenty to keep you informed for the duration of the demo.

8. Complete Septic System Setup

The information in this post is particularly designed to help you set up your septic system like a professional. Everything, from the original cost to the final ground filling, will be made available to you upon request. Everything from site inspection to septic tank sizing based on usage to trench dimensioning is covered in detail in this instructional video. Not to add that the layout is ideal for a multi-story housing complex with an open backyard. The completion of its layout drawing should signal the start of the initial stages.

A solid concrete building appears to be the most suitable solution for meeting the requirements properly.

9. Multi-Lined Septic System

With a single sewage system, you can perfectly service a large number of one-story residential arrangements. The video instruction demonstrates how to construct a unique institution with a large number of drainage pipes. Of course, the setup will take a significant amount of time due to the fact that a vast pit with multiple trenches would need to be dug. Easy changes, on the other hand, are able to keep the task simple enough for people with limited hand strength.

You must either install a single massive tank or construct one for yourself out of concrete or a durable polymer covering. The rest of its implementation is straightforward, allowing you to simply connect the pipes.

10. Step by Step Septic Tank

Despite the fact that it looks to be a professional work, you can afford to have a few extra hands on deck for the project. To add insult to injury, it is the best septic tank to utilize for any normal multistory building. Even if the time-lapse video portrayal is likely to go at a quicker rate, it will nonetheless complete the work in question. Unless the facility is extremely large, the cost of setting up such a facility is prohibitively high. The goal of this project cannot be achieved only by the project manager within a reasonable time frame.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself septic tank is a cost-effective solution for any DIY enthusiast who is interested in saving money. All that is required is that you match the requirements with the available solutions. You’re all ready to start gathering the items you’ll need for the project right there.

Alternative Septic Systems For Difficult Sites

This Article Discusses Mound Systems are a type of system that is used to build mounds. Alternative Systems are also available. View and post commentsQuestions Septic System FAQsView all articles on the SEPTIC SYSTEM If your lot does not pass the perc test, some towns may enable you to construct an engineered system as a backup plan if the perc test fails. For waterfront estates and other ecologically sensitive places, alternative water-treatment systems may also be necessary to aid in the protection of water supplies.

• A “mound” system operates in much the same way as a normal system, except that the leach field is elevated above the natural grade.
• They require more frequent monitoring and maintenance in order to avoid complications.
• It is possible that the technology will not operate as planned if either the designer or the installer is inexperienced with the technology.
• The design of a system is particular to the soil type, site circumstances, and degree of consumption that is being considered.
• Some states and municipalities will only accept system types that have been certified in their jurisdiction, and they may also demand that the owner maintain a service contract with a vendor that has been approved by the state or municipality.

MOUND SYSTEMS

Mound systems are often two to three times more expensive than ordinary septic systems, and they need more frequent monitoring and maintenance. To see a larger version, click here. Ohio State University Extension provides the following information: The mound is comprised of a network of tiny distribution pipes that are embedded in a layer of gravel on top of a layer of sand that is normally one to two feet deep. Topsoil is applied to the tops and sides of the structure (see illustration). A dosing chamber (also known as a pump chamber) is included in a mound system, and it is responsible for collecting wastewater that is discharged from the septic tank.

Most feature an alarm system that notifies the owner or a repair company if the pump fails or if the water level in the tank increases to an unsafe level.

Aside from that, monitoring wells are frequently placed to keep track on the conditions inside and outside the leach field.

The most expensive items are the additional equipment, as well as the earthwork and other materials that are required to construct the mound.

In extreme cases, a mound system can cost more than $20,000 in some locations. Additionally, owing of the increased complexity, mound systems need more regular pumping as well as additional monitoring and maintenance. In certain cases, annual maintenance expenditures may exceed $500.

OTHER ALTERNATIVE SEPTIC SYSTEMS

Sand filters that do not have a bottom are frequent on coastal properties and other ecologically sensitive places. There is a large variety of alternative septic systems available on the market, with new ones being introduced on a regular basis. Some are designed at community systems that serve a number of houses, and they are often monitored and maintained by a professional service provider. Some alternative systems are well-suited to particular houses, albeit the costs, complexity, and upkeep of these systems must be carefully evaluated before implementing them.

Before the wastewater reaches the leach field, which serves as a miniature replica of a sewage-treatment plant, some larger community systems employ pre-treatment to reduce the amount of bacteria present.

There are numerous other versions and combinations of systems and components that may be employed, including the following:

• Sand filters that do not have a bottom are commonly seen on seaside properties and other ecologically sensitive places. The market offers a diverse selection of alternative septic systems, with new products being introduced on a regular basis. Some are designed at community systems that serve a number of households, and they are often monitored and maintained by a professional service firm. Some alternative systems are well-suited to particular houses, albeit the expense, complexity, and upkeep of these systems must be carefully evaluated before implementing them. A conventional method requires less monitoring and maintenance than an electric pump or siphon system, which is used by the vast majority. Before the wastewater reaches the leach field, which serves as a miniature replica of a sewage-treatment plant, some larger community systems utilize pre-treatment to reduce the amount of harmful bacteria present. While some single-family systems rely on the introduction of natural or artificial materials, most rely on the introduction of materials that need less surface area for leaching than would be required by the poorly draining native soils. Many different systems and components are employed in various combinations, and there are many different versions and combinations available.

• Septic system with alternative leach field made of plastic: This is a normal septic system with an alternative leach field that may be shrunk in some jurisdictions, making it ideally suited for tiny construction sites. Because the half-pipe plastic chambers provide a gap for effluent flow, there is no need for gravel in the system. Infiltrator System, for example, has been in service for more than two decades and, according to the manufacturer, can withstand traffic volumes with only 12 inches of compacted cover. The higher cost of the plastic components is somewhat countered by the lower cost of gravel and the smaller area of the drain field, respectively.

• Sand filter: This is a big sand-filled box that is 2-4 feet deep and has a waterproof lining made of concrete or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Using filtration and anaerobic microorganisms, the sand is utilized to pre-treat wastewater before it is discharged into the leaching field. The boxes are often partially or completely buried in the ground, although they can also be elevated above ground level as necessary. While a pump and controls are typically used to equally administer the effluent on top of the filter, gravity distribution is also viable in some instances. The most common setup is shown in Figure 1. A collection tank at the bottom of the tank collects the treated effluent, which is either pumped or gravity-fed to the drain field. Some sand filters recycle the effluent back to the tank multiple times before discharging it into the drain field, while others do not. The majority of sand filters are used for pre-treatment, although they can also be utilized as the primary treatment in certain situations. A “bottomless sand filter” is used in this situation since the effluent drains straight into the soil underneath the filter (see photo above). A well designed and manufactured sand filter that is regularly maintained will prevent sand from being clogged on a consistent basis. More information about Sand Filters may be found here.

• Aerobic treatment system: These systems treat wastewater by the use of an aerobic process, which is normally carried out in an underground concrete tank with many chambers. Aeration, purification, and pumping of the effluent are all accomplished through the use of four chambers in the most complicated systems. The first chamber functions similarly to a smaller version of a regular septic tank in its function. An air pump is employed in the second “treatment” tank to ensure that the effluent is continually injected with fresh air. The presence of oxygen promotes the growth of aerobic bacteria, which are more effective in processing sewage than the anaerobic bacteria found in a standard septic system. It is possible to utilize a third and fourth chamber in certain systems to further clarify the water and to pump out the purified water. In addition, so-called “fixed-film” systems make use of a synthetic media filter to help the bacterial process go more quickly. In the correct hands, aerobic systems may create better-quality wastewater than a typical system, and they may also incorporate a disinfectant before the purified wastewater is discharged. A smaller drain field may be used in urban areas while a larger area may be sprayed across a whole field in rural areas. Technically speaking, they are tiny sewage treatment plants rather than septic systems, and they rely mostly on anaerobic treatment to accomplish their goals. They are referred to as ATUs in some circles (aerobic treatment units). Installation and maintenance of these systems are prohibitively expensive
• As a result, they are mostly employed in situations where high-quality treatment is required in a small area or with poor soils. A growing number of them are being built on beachfront sites. More information about Anaerobic Treatment Systems may be found here.

• Using a pump, wastewater is sent via a filtering mechanism and onto an array of shallow drip tubes that are spaced out across a vast area for irrigation. In order to send reasonably clean water to the system, a pretreatment unit is often necessary. Alternatively, the water may be utilized to irrigate a lawn or non-edible plants, which would help to eliminate nitrogen from the wastewater. This sort of system may be employed in shallow soils, clay soils, and on steep slopes, among other conditions. Frozen tubes can pose problems in cold areas since they are so close to the surface of the water. Expect hefty installation fees, as well as additional monitoring and maintenance, just as you would with other alternative systems.

• Wetlands that have been constructed. These are suitable for those who are environmentally conscious and wish to take an active role in the recycling of their wastewater. They may be used in practically any type of soil. An artificial shallow pond is used in the system, which is lined with rock, tire chippings, or other suitable medium and then filled with water. A pleasant atmosphere is created by the media, which serves as a habitat for particular plants that process wastewater and maintain the ecosystem. Wastewater from the septic tank is dispersed across the media bed through a perforated conduit, where plant roots, bacteria, and other microorganisms break down the contaminants in the water. The treated water is collected in a second pipe located at the back of the marsh. Household members must budget time for planting, pruning, and weeding in the wetlands area.

Additional resources: National Small Flows Clearinghouse Inspectapedia.com You may also be interested in:Who Should I Hire For Perc Test? Whether or not alternative septic systems are permitted. Is It Possible for Septic Systems to Last a Lifetime? How Much Slope Do You Need for a Septic Line? Performing an Inspection on a Septic System When Is the Best Time to Take a Perc Test? Should I use a Sand Filter with my existing septic system? Examination of the WellSEPTIC SYSTEMView allSEPTIC SYSTEMarticles Return to the top of the page