You May Not Know Whatever the case may be, knowing the depth of your septic tank can be a difficult thing given the circumstances, especially if you don’t know where the lids are. The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.
- How deep can you bury a plastic septic tank. Your tank foundations must be prepared as per normal. As a guide we recommend burying your poly tank no more than 1 metre into the ground. Place the pipes in the leach field a minimum of 6 inches and most likely between 18 to 36 inches deep according to the clemson cooperative extension.
Can a septic tank be too deep?
Keep septic tanks high: we don’t put the septic tank any deeper than necessary, since we are usually moving effluent from the septic tank to the drainfield also by gravity. Plumbers usually install sewer lines to slope down from inlet to outlet, at 1/8″ per foot to 1/4″ per foot of linear run of the waste pipe.
What is the lifespan of a plastic septic tank?
A septic tank can last between 20 and 40 years. The lifespan depends on the tank’s material. A steel tank lasts 20 years, while a concrete tank lasts 40 years. Plastic tanks can last as long as 30 years.
What is the standard depth of a septic tank?
How deep in the ground is a septic tank? You can typically find your septic system buried between four inches and four feet underground.
How do you keep a plastic septic tank from floating?
How can you prevent this from happening?
- Fill the tank with water after it’s pumped to keep weight in the tank and prevent floating.
- Divert rainwater runoff away from your system.
- Avoid pumping the tank during wet seasons if there is a risk that the tank could float.
Are plastic septic tanks good?
Plastic septic tanks are watertight and are immune to water-based corrosion. They are also rust-resistant. Plastic tanks are less prone to cracking since plastic is flexible, and thus a plastic septic tank does not crack as much as a cement septic tank. Plastic septic tanks are more hygienic than cement tanks.
Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?
The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.
How deep is the septic tank outlet pipe?
After the solids settle out, effluent leaves the septic tank through the outlet pipe and flows to the drain field. The outlet pipe should be approximately 3 inches below the inlet pipe.
Should septic tank lids be buried?
In most cases, all components of the septic tank including the lid are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. Unless the septic tank has special risers that position the lid at ground level, you’ll have to dig for it.
How does a plastic septic tank work?
Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The solids settle to the bottom, where microorganisms decompose them. The middle layer of effluent exits the tank and travels through underground perforated pipes into the drainage field.
How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?
How much does it cost to pump out a septic tank? The average cost is $300, but can run up to $500, depending on your location. The tank should be pumped out every three to five years.
How often should you pump your septic tank?
Inspect and Pump Frequently The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.
How deep are drain fields buried?
A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.
How often does a 1000 gallon septic tank need to be pumped?
For example, a 1,000 gallon septic tank, which is used by two people, should be pumped every 5.9 years. If there are eight people using a 1,000-gallon septic tank, it should be pumped every year.
What should be the maximum depth of septic tank?
Standard size of septic tank in feet:- standard size of septic tank should be 5 feet long by 2.5 feet wide by 3.3 feet in depth. This septic tank has capacity of 1000 litres of liquid wastages ideal for 5 users of house hold.
How Low Can You Go?
Receive articles, stories, and videos about trucks delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Trucks+ Receive Notifications The topic of whether or not there are guidelines for septic tank burial levels was put to me a few months ago and it seemed easy enough. Of course, there are standards, and they are based on the strength of the materials used in the tank’s construction as well as the materials’ capacity to bear all of the forces acting vertically and laterally on the tank where it is located.
As I continued to think about the subject, I began to think about all of the different types of tanks and all of the different manufacturers, and I realized that I should take a closer look at the specifications as well.
In the codes
In the first, it was specified that “tank components such as fitting, riser, and apertures (openings) must: Be capable of carrying long-term vertical stresses appropriate for the conditions in which the tank will be positioned.” Among these loads are: saturated soil load (based on 130 pounds per cubic foot); being capable of withstanding a lateral load for the conditions in which it will be installed; being resistant to corrosion and degradation caused by sewage or sewage gases (including risers and maintenance hole covers) with proper maintenance and venting; and being structurally capable of withstanding exposure and stresses caused by freezing conditions.” Tanks must be “structurally built to sustain all predicted earth or other loads,” according to the second code of practice.
When constructed as described above, the tank is capable of supporting an earth load of 300 pounds per square foot, and if the top of the tank is more than 2 feet below finish grade, the septic tank and its cover are capable of supporting an additional earth load of 150 pounds per square foot for each foot of additional cover.” Several other parts of both codes stipulate that prefabricatedconcrete septic tanks must fulfill the requirements of the “Standard Specification for PrecastConcrete Septic Tanks C1227-03,” which was produced by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM).
The International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials (IAMPO) has released “Material and Property Standards for Prefabricated Septic Tanks, IAMPO PS-1 2004,” which specifies the materials and properties of prefabricated fiberglass and polyethylene tanks.
If you go directly to the publishers, these standards may have received additional updates and revisions after the date of incorporation; copies of the standards are also available for a price if you order them straight from them.
Precast concrete manual
The first one said that “tanks, fittings, risers, and apertures(openings) must: be capable of carrying long-term vertical stresses for the conditions in which the tank will be positioned.” The second one stated that These loads include, but are not limited to, saturated soil load based on 130 pounds per cubic foot; be capable of withstanding a lateral load for the conditions in which the tank will be placed; be subject to corrosion and degradation from sewage or sewage gases, including risers and maintenance hole covers; and be structurally capable of withstanding exposure and stresses from freezing conditions.” Tanks must be “structurally built to sustain any expected earth or other loads,” according to the second code.
When constructed as described above, the tank is capable of supporting an earth load of 300 pounds per square foot, and if the top of the tank is more than 2 feet below finish grade, the septic tank and its cover are capable of supporting an additional earth load of 150 pounds per square foot for each foot of cover above the finished grade.
Materials and property standards for prefabricated fiberglass and polyethylene septic tanks, established by the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials, must be met by prefabricated fiberglass and polyethylene septic tanks.
According to their state office and the library system, copies of these standards that have been included by reference into the code can be received at no cost.
Copies of the standards are also available for purchase.
Other tank materials
With regard to fiberglass and polyethylene tanks, the manufacturer’s information sheet on their goods will include information on the maximum depth of burying required to avoid deformation. Some of the tanks I have been working with have a maximum bury of 30 inches, which is a standard amount. Additionally, because these tanks are often lighter than concrete (which is one of its selling advantages for difficult-to-reach regions), greater attention must be paid to buoyancy issues during and after installation.
Because of this, each manufacturer has particular backfill instructions and regulations to fill the tank “as you go” throughout the installation process in order to prevent lateral tensions.
Septic Tank Design Depth – how deep should the septic tank be located
- Manufacturers’ information sheets on their goods will include data detailing the maximum depth of burying required to minimize deformation of fiberglass and polyethylene tanks. In my experience, a maximum bury of 30 inches has been used for some of the tanks I have worked on. Additionally, because these tanks are often lighter than concrete (which is one of its selling advantages for difficult-to-reach regions), greater attention must be paid to buoyancy issues during and after installation. This is a problem that each manufacturer has a favored method of dealing with
- The most of them entail anchoring the tank to some sort of curb. Because lateral strains might occur during installation, each manufacturer has particular backfill instructions and criteria for filling the tank “as you go.”
InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Design depth for a septic tank: What are the most frequent depths to which septic tanks, cesspools, seepage pits, and drywells are buried? Is it necessary to locate the septic tank below the frost line in order to prevent it from freezing? Septic tanks are placed at a certain depth, and there are various elements that impact the actual depth to which a septic tank (or cesspool, drywell, or soak-pit) will be sunk, which are discussed below.
For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.
Septic Tank Installation Depth
Table of Contents for the Article Series
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH- this article
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANKDRAINFIELDFREEZE PROTECTION
How Deep Should WePutthe Septic Tank at Original Installation?
Septic tanks may be built almost anywhere in the soil, regardless of its depth. When operating in a freezing climate, even in uninhabited homes, it is unlikely that the septic tank serving an occupied home or even an unoccupied one will freeze. This is due in part to latent heat received by the septic tank’s bottom from earth, in part to heat generated by bacteria in the septic tank, and in part to warm wastewater entering from a building served by the septic system, and in part to warm wastewater entering from the building served by the septic system.
You’ll kill the bacteria, damage the drainfield, and taint the surrounding ecosystem as a result of this.
Factors Determining Septic Tank Depth
The following are the primary elements that influence the actual depth at which a septic tank is likely to be buried (and, consequently, the depth to which you may have to dig to locate the septic tank) at a specific site:
- The depth to which the lowest sewage line departs the structure that the septic tank serves is referred to as the sewer line depth. Given that we often rely on gravity to transport sewage from a building to a septic tank, the tank will be lower than the waste line that exits the building that it serves. a spot where the contractor discovered site characteristics suited for burying a septic tank because of its form, rocks, and impediments If a location has bedrock or huge rocks that are near to the surface, the tank may be relocated
- The greater the distance between the tank and the structure, and the greater the depth of the tank if the system relies on gravity to carry sewage, the deeper the tank will be. We don’t place septic tanks any deeper than they need to be since we are normally transporting effluent from the septic tank to the drainfield by gravity as well as by pumping it out. Plumbers often build sewage lines to slope down from the inlet to the outlet at a rate of 1/8″ per foot to 1/4″ per foot of linear run of the waste pipe, depending on the kind of waste pipe. In order to avoid septic drainfield burial at an excessive depth, we must ensure that there is sufficient air in the soil, since the absence of oxygen deep in the soil will inhibit certain desired bacterial action (the aerobic bacteria) that is required to break down and process sewage. It is certainly possible to locate and position the septic tank anywhere, including uphill from the building, if a sewer ejector pump or grinder pump system is utilized to transport sewage from a structure to an underground storage tank. If a sewage effluent pump is used to transport septic effluent from the septic tank to the drainfield, we may, of course, locate the tank “downhill” from the drainfield as well
- But, if a sewage effluent pump is not utilized, we cannot. Growing grass: If the septic tank is just 2 or 3 inches below the surface of the earth, you might as well have left the top of the tank visible, because grass will not grow in such thin soil as you would expect. Adding 6″ to 12″ of backfill may be sufficient to allow grass to grow over the septic system
- However, this is a purely aesthetic issue and does not affect the system’s functionality. See SEPTIC SYSTEMS, OVERHAULED PLANTS
- Recommendations from the manufacturer: Some modern septic treatment system designs need the use of a skilled system operator to perform highly specified inspection and maintenance intervals. According to the information provided atBAT MEDIA SEPTIC PLANTS, BAT septic systems (biologically accelerated treatment) are maintained or examined at 6-month intervals, among other things. According to the maker of that technology (Jet Inc.), it is extremely critical that the finishing grade slope away from the facility when completed. In addition, the grade must be at least 1″ below the bottom of the access covers to be considered. (Jet retired in 2016)
A service riser should be put in deep septic tanks to provide access to the tank. Plungers are large-diameter “wells” that are installed over the entrance and/or outlet ports of a septic tank in order to provide simple access for tank pumping, inspection, and baffle repair. Plungers are also used for septic tank pumping, inspection, and baffle repair. If the septic tank is sunk more than a few inches below the surface of the earth, good practice calls for the installation of a septic riser, which is a high diameter pipe that allows for easy access to the septic tank for inspection and cleaning.
Continue reading atSEPTIC TANK DEPTH to learn how to determine the depth of a septic tank’s cover, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for more information.
Alternatively, consider the following:
Septic Tank Articles
- The following topics are covered: SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LOCATION
- SEPTIC DRAINFIELD SIZE
- SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTION LEVELS
- SEPTIC TANK COVERS
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS
- SEPTIC TANKDRAINFIELDFREEZE PROTECTION
- SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND
- THE DISTANCE TO THE SEPTIC TANK
- FINDING THE MAIN WASTE LINE EXIT
- POSITIVE SEPTIC TANK LOCATIONS
- SEPTIC TANK COVERS
- SEPTIC TANK DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANK DESIGN DEPTH
- SEPTIC TANK LOCATING EQUIPMENT
- SEPTIC TANK RISERS
- SEPTIC TANK GRASS OR SNOWMELT
- THE MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
- THE SEPTIC TANK PUMPING PROCEDURE
- THE SEPTIC TANK PUMPING SCHEDULE
- THE SEPTIC TANK RISERS
- THE U.S. SEPTIC AUTHORITIESDESIGN SPECIFICATIONS
- THE MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
Suggested citation for this web page
DEPTH AT INSPECTION OF SEPTIC TANK DESIGN An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.
INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS
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» Installation Instructions
Underground Plastic Tank Installation|Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation is a type of underground plastic tank installation.
Underground Plastic Tank Installation
- Choose a location with adequate subsoil drainage. Allow enough space around the tank for the backfill to be properly placed and compacted around the lower half of the tank Provision of a well-compacted or undisturbed bedding of sand/gravel combination or clean, granular soil: 6 inches or more in rock terrain, depending on the kind of terrain. Form the bedding to fit the underside of the tank.
SETTING UP THE TANK
- Input and outlet orientations, as well as shipping damage, are all recorded on the Warranty Form.
- To level the inlet and exit, place a pipe level across the access cover. It is critical that the outflow is located below the level of the entrance. CAUTION: Use caution when handling. A heavy hit, particularly in cold weather, might cause the tank to break.
IN ORDER TO AVOID FLOTATION OR DISTORTION
- If poly tanks are pumped out during periods of high water table, they run the danger of floating or distorting at the base. During really rainy weather, keep the tank just partly full. Installation of a vertical length of 4′′ perforated drainage pipe beside the tank with a detachable cover above grade level to monitor the water table level after it has been filled is recommended. Attach the label provided on the standpipe. Avoid pumping the tank out below the water table at all costs. Drainage lines should be run from under the tank out to daylight and downward away from it if the tank is on sloping terrain.
- It is required that the tank be refilled when it is either empty or less than 30 percent full. The backfilling technique does not necessitate the use of water. If the tank has been filled for leak testing, empty it to 30 percent or less before refilling it. Backfill with a maximum of 12′′ layers of granular soil or clean fill and stomp the dirt to ensure uniform distribution. THERE WILL BE NO CLAY BACKFILL. The backfill must be correctly put and compacted around the lower part of the tank, which is very important. Do not place the machine compact near the tank. It is not recommended to dump significant amounts of fill near to the tank. Check the level of the tank on a regular basis. Make certain that the backfill under the inlet and output pipe connectors is compacted. Build up the support beneath the pipelines to prevent probable pipe breakage caused by the settling of backfill over time. If the tank has become heated due to exposure to sunshine, leave it to cool before continuing with the backfilling. If there is no riser, waterproof tape should be used to seal the lids.
CONNECTIONS FOR PIPE:
- Make connections to the tank only when it is improbable that the tank will shift throughout the remainder of the backfilling. Rubber couplings of the type “Fernco” should be used
- All water tanks must be vented through pipe with a minimum diameter of 2 inches
- To allow pipes to deflect with tank expansion (in the case of water tanks), 90-degree elbows should be installed at output bulkhead connections. Make use of at least a 3-foot-long flexible hose from the pumps to allow for movement (if they are installed).
IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS FOR INSTALLATION:
- Tanks are used for burying the dead. For above-ground installations, consult the manufacturer. In the absence of special approval, tanks are designed to withstand up to TWO FEET of earth cover at 300 lbs./square foot. A SUPERTANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
- FLOUT DOSING TANKS are capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
- A FLOUT DOSING TANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and four pounds per square foot of floor space
- Do not place yourself in the line of moving cars or heavy equipment. Keep a safe distance from big roots or rocks. Placement of the tank should be avoided in locations with a high water table. Use a reinforced tank in areas with a high water table
- Avoid putting the tank in damp clay soils
- And Surface runoff should be diverted away from the tank area. Fresh backfill has pores in it. Runoff might clog the area around the tank.
Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in where the tank is installed. If you live outside of British Columbia, check with the factory. NOTE: If the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed exactly, the warranty will be voided.
Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation
Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in which the tank is being installed. Outside of British Columbia, contact the manufacturer. If the instructions are not followed to the letter, the warranty is void. *IMPORTANT:
- Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in which the tank is located. If you live outside of British Columbia, contact the manufacturer. NOTE: If the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed exactly, the warranty is void.
IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE A PLATFORM? Although it is possible, the tank bottom must be continually maintained, for example, with two layers of 3-4 inch plywood nailed together and to a sufficient support framework. In the sake of safety, it is recommended that an engineer be consulted. It is important to remember that the weight of water is 8.33 pounds per US gallon and 10 pounds per Canadian gallon. WHAT IS THE WEIGHT OF THE TANKS?
- The weight of above-ground tanks may be approximated by dividing the gallon capacity by five, which yields the following result: For example, a 1000-gallon tank will weigh around 200 pounds. For subterranean tanks, multiply the gallon capacity by three to get the volume.
DO THEY APPEAR TO BE EASY TO MANAGE?
- Almost all of the tanks may be transported using a pickup truck or a trailer. Considering that polyethylene is a fairly robust substance, it is doubtful that any damage would occur during cautious handling and transit. Extreme cold weather necessitates extra caution due to the fact that the tank will become harder and more fragile.
A pickup truck or a trailer may be used to transport any of the tanks. Considering that polyethylene is a fairly robust material, it is unlikely that any damage will occur during handling and shipping procedures. Due to the fact that the tank will become harder and more brittle in extremely cold conditions, more caution should be exercised.
- Tanks are designed expressly for usage above or below ground, depending on their intended function. Above-ground tanks feature smooth sides and are exclusively intended for installation on the ground. The tanks may, however, be lowered into the ground to a depth equal to 20 percent of the tank’s height in order to lower the tank’s above-ground profile
There are two types of tanks available: above-ground tanks and below-ground tanks; These above-ground tanks feature smooth edges and are solely intended for installation on the ground level. The above-ground profile of the tank can be reduced by dropping them into the ground to a depth of 20 percent of the tank’s height.
- The bottom of the majority of above-ground water tanks is equipped with a 1 inch or 2 inch female threaded pipe connection, while the top is equipped with a 16 inch access cap. Breather valves are included into the access caps, allowing air to enter and exit when the water level changes. Making the necessary connections can be accomplished with the assistance of a local plumber or plumbing supply company. Check to verify that the bulkhead drain/outlet fittings are securely fastened to the tank. As a result, while tightening external connections, the lock nut on the fittings features a reverse thread to prevent it from coming free. Hand tighten threads several rounds to ensure that the threads are aligned and that the possibility of stripping is minimized. When the tank is completely full, check for leaks and tighten only enough to prevent any leaks. Excessive tightening may result in the threads of the pipe being stripped or the bulkhead fittings being cracked, requiring replacement. Additional connections for intake pipes are provided on an as-needed basis in response to client requests. Pipe Sizing Chart may be used to determine approximate pipe sizes.
DOES SUNLIGHT HAVE ANY IMPACT ON THE TANKS?
- Over time, exposure to sunshine causes the plastic to harden, making it more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. Almost all of Premier Plastics’ tanks are treated with a UV inhibitor, which helps to reduce the hardening process. Tanks that are darker in color or black will likely survive longer.
With repeated exposure to sunshine, the plastic becomes harder and more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. In order to reduce the hardening action, all Premier Plastics tanks are treated with an ultraviolet inhibitor. Black or dark-colored tanks will often survive longer than lighter-colored tanks.
- Rainwater collection is a good technique to bridge periods of limited water supply. The usage of a filter basket is recommended to screen out leaves, twigs, and other material that may enter the gutter system from the eaves troughs. Boiling or disinfection of water is required for all uses including drinking, cooking, and dishwashing. It is possible to use clean rainwater for large-volume applications such as toilet flushing and laundry, showering, cleaning automobiles, and watering the yard. A ‘Pneumatic Dipstick’ level gauge from Premier Plastics may be used to monitor the water level in a container.
WHAT IS THE DURATION OF THE WARRANTY?
- However, you can expect many more years of service from your above-ground tanks, which are covered by an eight-year warranty. All underground water tanks and septic tanks are covered by a ten-year manufacturer’s guarantee. Polyethylene will persist practically indefinitely in the subsurface environment. Fill out the warranty form and send it back to Premier Plastics Inc.
ARE THE TANKS SAFE FOR USING AS DRINKING WATER STORAGE?
- No. Our food-grade polyethylene tanks are built in accordance with FDA rules 21 CFR 177.1520(c)3.1, NSF Standard 61, and Canadian Standards Association (CSA) 6861-05
- And, yes, they are recyclable. It is, of course, your job to ensure that the water in the tank is of high quality. Water quality information may be received from a variety of sources, including water delivery corporations, well drillers, and public health authorities. A new tank’s bottom may include small particles of polyethylene that have been cleaned but not disinfected. Factory tanks are clean but not disinfected. These are created while cutting holes for fittings and will float to the surface when filled or can be cleaned out
- They are created when cutting holes for fittings.
WILL I BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN TASTE?
- Ideally, your pipework should be linked in such a manner that incoming water is constantly flushing through the tank
- Water that has been sitting in any form of vented container for an extended amount of time will develop a “flat” flavor. This is due to the fact that the water has lost its ability to hold air. This may be partially remedied by half-filling a closed jar with water and rapidly shaking it to introduce air back into it
HOW CAN A STORAGE TANK ASSIST A SLOW PRODUCING BUSINESS SUCCESS?
- Numerous customers are reporting a decrease in the flow rate from their water wells. Well pumps are often designed to generate water “on demand,” which means that if your bathtub fills at a rate of 5 gallons per minute, the well must supply water at a rate of 5 gallons per minute for the whole time the bath is running. Using a storage tank, short times of high demand may be met by drawing from the tank rather than straight from the well. If a storage tank is employed, a household consuming 400 gallons per day would require their well to generate no more than 400 gallons over the course of 24 hours. On average, a well only has to produce half a gallon per minute for 24 hours to fulfill a family’s water demands. A popular technique is to drop a truckload of water down a slow-producing well in order to speed up production. There would be no loss of water due to seepage if all water deliveries were stored into a storage tank, resulting in cost savings. Your local well driller can provide you with system sizing and planning information.
HOW DOES IT EXPERIENCE IF MY TANK FREEZES?
- It is improbable that a tank that is just partly filled will rupture. The ice will cause the walls to bulge as a result of the pressure. Only over prolonged periods of cold weather can a tank become prone to freezing. Piping should be shielded or drained during freezing weather since the lesser volume of water in the piping will freeze more quickly and may cause the pipe to split. Consult with a contractor who is knowledgeable with the conditions
- The tank can be insulated with a waterproof insulation or housed in an insulated shed if the risk of freezing is high. An underground tank provides the best protection against freezing conditions. It will also help to keep the water cold throughout the hot months.
7 Steps to a New Plastic Septic System
Plastic septic tanks are only one important component of a home’s wastewater management system. There are several other components as well. When you are preparing for your plastic septic tank installation, it is critical to recognize and remember that there are several critical steps to take when installing a new septic system, and if you do not complete each of them carefully, you may be faced with some very expensive consequences down the road.
Step 1: Design Your System
The first step is to take your time and properly design your complete system. There is some critical information that you will need to investigate and get in order to complete this task. You will require a site survey to assist you in determining the borders of your land so that your septic system can be installed in accordance with local restrictions about how near to your neighbor’s property wastewater may be discharged underground. The following are the most crucial pieces of information to look for during the site survey:
- In addition to the quantity of space available, the land’s topography should be considered as well as the purpose and estimated usage of water based on the size of your home, so you know how much water your septic system will have to treat on a regular basis the position of any wells on your property or on the properties of your neighbors
In addition, you will need to conduct a percolation test on the soils in the region where your plastic septic tank installation will take place. Performing this test is critical because it will determine whether or not the ground is suitable for a plastic septic tank, as well as what type of structural precautions you will need to take to ensure that the plastic septic tank does not fracture or crack under the pressure exerted by the surrounding ground. The following parameters will be measured by the soil test:
- The kind of soil and the composition of the soil (sand, clay, rock, etc.)
- Layering (in which different soil types are found at different depths)
- The capacity of the earth to drain and filter effluent
Once you have completed these tests, you will have the information necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your home.
Step 2: Seek Permits
Following the completion of these tests, you will have the knowledge necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your house.
Step 3: Gather Equipment
Bring together all of the items that will be needed for your plastic septic tank installation. The following is a list of the equipment and parts that you will require:
- Backhoe – this is by far the most effective method of digging the holes that will be required to install your septic system in the earth. In order to conduct some more accurate digging in the holes you dig with your backhoe, you’ll need a shovel. In order to assure exact measurements for digging, a laser transit surveying equipment is used. A grade pole is a surveying equipment that is used to accurately measure the depth of a hole while digging. (1) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the input pipe from your house, and it may also require fittings
- And (2) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the output pipe from your home, and it may also require fittings
- (1) – 4′′ perforated pipe in accordance with ASTM D2729 – output pipe for dispersing effluent into draining field
- (1) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with suitable fittings
- (2) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with appropriate fittings
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps – to disperse gas buildup resulting from the degradation of waste in the septic tank
- – 4′′ Sch. 40 test caps – to ensure that the tank is functioning properly. To join PVC pipes together, PVC primer and PVC adhesive are used. Cutting PVC pipe to the required length requires the use of a manual hand saw or an electric hand saw. The usage of a hammer drill and bits is required if you need to drill through the wall of your house in order to install the septic system. If you drill a hole through a PVC pipe, you may use hydraulic cement to seal the gap between the pipe and the wall of your home. The stone should be 1 12 inches in thickness and should be put below your septic system to guarantee proper drainage. Small and big tape measures – you will need at least 100 feet of tape, therefore it may be beneficial to have both a small and a large tape measure on hand
- Septic fabric — You will need roughly 3 feet of fabric cut from a roll. Plastic septic tank and risers – check with your local rules to ensure that plastic septic tanks are permitted. Silicone caulk is used to seal the risers of the stairwell. If a septic filter is necessary, it should be installed. Check out the plumbing codes in your area. Distribution box made of plastic – this is utilized when running a system with many laterals to the draining field.
Step 4: Install Intake Pipe
Choose one of the sides of your home or structure from which you want the septic tank to take in waste water for treatment. It is necessary to dig down at least 2 feet and either make a hole in the wall or dig further into the footing of the home or structure at that location. If you have a gravity-fed system, you should design the flow such that it flows downhill, rather than uphill, because gravity-fed systems do not require mechanical techniques to transport waste from a tank to a drain field.
- Install the 4 inch Sch.
- It has to be level at the wall and slope down about 1/8 inch per foot toward the plastic septic tank, according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
- In the event that you swap pipes, make certain that you utilize the proper adaptor while connecting it to the plastic septic tank.
- If you decide to drill a hole in the wall, you must use hydraulic cement to seal the area around the hole, both on the inside of the building and on the outside as well as the inside.
If the pitch is excessively steep, the wastewater will flow too quickly through the system, causing the particles to become caught in the pipe. It is also possible that you will have insufficient space left to adequately drain the effluent into the draining field.
Step 5: Install Plastic Septic Tank
Excavate a huge hole deep enough to accommodate your plastic septic tank below the surface of the ground. Make use of your laser transit to identify the top of the intake pipe and measure the distance between the top of the intake pipe and the bottom of the tank with your tape measure. In order to get the depth you want, double that amount by 1 12 inches and add it to the measurement taken from your laser transit to your grade pole. Continue digging until you reach the desired depth. Afterwards, you must dig out your draining field (also known as a leach field) in accordance with the parameters of your survey results as well as any applicable local restrictions.
Step 6: Install Draining Field
Generally, a 12 inch coating of washed drain rock will be required surrounding the pipe in order to keep it stable while it is transporting stuff. According to your local health criteria, the size of the gravel and the depth of this layer will be determined. If you are placing perforated pipe in a gravity septic system drain field, keep in mind that the pipe has no slope on either end and is capped on both ends.
Step 7: Inspection and Filling In
Following the approval of your local health inspector, it is time to cover everything with soil and finish the job. To cover your cleaned drain rock before covering it with soil, you will most likely need a specific cloth that functions as a filter, untreated construction paper, or four inches of straw to cover the drainage region.
Bonus for Pump Plastic Septic Tank Installations:
If you have a pumped plastic septic tank installation, there will only be a few variations in the process you will go through. Before you can connect your plastic septic tank to your draining field, you must first construct a pump chamber in your home. The pump chamber is constructed in a manner similar to that of the septic tank, but the electrical aspects of the pump will necessitate the services of a certified electrician to ensure that you are in compliance with state standards. Those who live in areas with a lot of groundwater may find that their pump chamber is mostly empty most of the time, and others may find that they need to add more weight to the floatation mechanism that switches the pump on and off.
Not until you have obtained your permits and asked for assistance from local septic specialists at the first indication of problems, not after you have put everything together, filled it in, and discovered evidence of sewage leakage when you first turn on the water, should you begin digging.
If any part of this instruction seemed unfamiliar to you, there’s no shame in asking for clarification! Early involvement with the specialists will save you a great deal of time, money, and the frustration of having to repair a septic system that was badly constructed.
Septic Tank Depth
Trevor, The amount of heat created by biological activity in a septic tank is unknown to me, but I think that a tank that is actively functioning will generate more heat than a tank that is in “holiday” mode. The overall amount of warm water and “food” placed into the tank may not be very much if you have a two-person family like mine, hence the tank may not contain very much in general. If you are away from home for an extended period of time, it is possible that the temperatures in the tank will stratify.
- If the frost line penetration corresponds to the tank height, the total temperature in the tank may be able to reach freezing temperatures at some point.
- Even though the ground temperature 6′ down may only be 35-40 degrees Fahrenheit in the middle of winter, that should be sufficient to keep an idle tank from freezing.
- When flowing into a 1500 gallon tank, the amount of heat provided by a warm shower is not very significant.
- Ice spreads in all directions, which may put pressure on the tank’s walls as a result of the expansion.
- Because the tank I have is relatively thin in comparison to the ones I remember from decades ago, I’m hoping that someone out there can offer anecdotal evidence regarding how robust the new thin tanks are.
- When the ice penetrated deep enough into the earth to freeze all the water pouring from the house during a particularly harsh winter, my next-door neighbor was forced to rescue a friend.
- Oddly enough, I don’t recollect my neighbor mentioning whether or not the output pipe had frozen as well.
- The hypothesized explanation is that automobiles push ice into the ground while on the road.
- I believe that driving a car across the tank top would be a more serious problem.
- Snow provides some insulating properties, however it appears that windy circumstances may cause the snow to become thin, as your sand has done in your case.
Perhaps Michael can contribute some real-world insights concerning the inlet and outflow danger in your region based on his own experiences. Although I live in a 6B zone, temperatures can drop below -20 degrees Fahrenheit at times.
What size of septic tank do I need?
Probably one of the last things on your mind when you are constructing a new house is the location of your septic system. After all, shopping for tanks isn’t nearly as entertaining as shopping for cabinetry, appliances, and floor coverings. Although you would never brag about it, your guests will be aware if you do not have the proper septic tank placed in your home or business.
septic tanks for new home construction
The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size. Of course, all of this is dependent on the number of people who live in the house as well as the amount of water and waste that will be disposed of through the plumbing system.
For the most accurate assessment of your septic tank needs, you should speak with an experienced and trustworthy sewer business representative.
planning your drainfield
Here are some helpful hints for deciding where to locate your drainfield when you’re designing it.
- Vehicles should not be allowed on or around the drainfield. Planting trees or anything else with deep roots along the bed of the drain field is not recommended. The roots jam the pipes on a regular basis. Downspouts and sump pumps should not be discharged into the septic system. Do not tamper with or change natural drainage features without first researching and evaluating the consequences of your actions on the drainage field. Do not construct extensions on top of the drain field or cover it with concrete, asphalt, or other materials. Create easy access to your septic tank cover by placing it near the entrance. Easy maintenance and inspection are made possible as a result. To aid with evaporation and erosion prevention, plant grass in the area.
a home addition may mean a new septic tank
Do not make any big additions or renovations to your house or company until you have had the size of your septic system assessed. If you want to build a house addition that is more than 10% of your total floor space, increases the number of rooms, or necessitates the installation of new plumbing, you will almost certainly need to expand your septic tank.
- For a home addition that will result in increased use of your septic system, your local health department will require a letter from you that has been signed and authorized by a representative of your local health department confirming that your new septic system is capable of accommodating the increase in wastewater. It is not recommended that you replace your septic system without the assistance of a certified and competent contractor.
how to maintain your new septic system
Septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services are provided by Norway Septic Inc., a service-oriented company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to households and business owners throughout the Michiana area. “We take great delight in finishing the task that others have left unfinished.” “They pump, we clean!” says our company’s motto. Septic systems are something we are familiar with from our 40 years of expertise, and we propose the following:
- Make use of the services of a qualified specialist to develop a maintenance strategy. Make an appointment for an annual examination of your septic system. Utilize the services of an effluent filter to limit the amount of particles that exit the tank, so extending the life of your septic system. Waste items should be disposed of properly, and energy-efficient appliances should be used. Make sure you get your septic system professionally cleaned every 2 to 3 years, or more frequently if necessary, by an experienced and qualified expert
- If you have any reason to believe that there is an issue with your system, contact a professional. It is far preferable to catch anything early than than pay the price later. Maintain a record of all septic system repairs, inspections, and other activities
common septic questions
Here are some of the most frequently asked questions by our septic customers.
How do I determine the size of my septic tank?
Our septic clients frequently ask us the following questions:
How many bedrooms does a 500-gallon septic tank support?
The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size.
How deep in the ground is a septic tank?
Your septic system is normally buried between four inches and four feet underground, depending on the climate.
Can You Bury Poly Water Tanks in the Ground?
It is possible that some people would prefer to bury their water tanks in order to either lessen their height or totally conceal them from view.
Unlike steel tanks, which cannot be buried owing to corrosive reasons, a poly tank may be buried with no issues about corrosion. This post will discuss a few considerations you should keep in mind while burying your poly tank in the ground.
Partially Burying Your Tank
It is possible that some people would prefer to bury their water tanks in order to either lessen their height or totally conceal them from public sight. A poly tank, on the other hand, does not have the same limitations as steel tanks in terms of burial due to corrosion. This post will go over some of the considerations you should make while burying your poly tank.
Completely Burying Your Tank
However, while it is not recommended to totally submerge a standard water tank, there are poly tanks available that are meant to be buried. It is advantageous to use an underground poly tank since they are far less expensive than concrete tanks, are built to resist the pressure of the earth under them and are significantly easier to construct. If you want assistance with your specific circumstance, please contact the professional staff at Team Poly right once.
Concrete Septic Tanks in Alberta & BC
Tanks-A-Lot has a long and illustrious history of constructing and distributing high-quality concrete septic tanks in Alberta, having started operations in 1982. In our new production plant, we construct our tanks in accordance with CSA B66 requirements. In order to do this, we have designed our septic tanks with the following industry-leading features:
- A raised lip manhole on a septic tank roof is certified to CSA B66-10 standards, and it provides greater sealing for concrete manhole extensions. Additionally, ultra-rib (plastic) extensions are offered. Flexible rubber intake of 4 inches in diameter for decreased failures due to movement of the home sewage line
- A 2″ PVC output with a threaded connector for improved connecting of pressure lines to the pump and septic field Limited guarantee on materials and workmanship for a period of 20 years
What are Septic Tanks?
A raised lip manhole on a septic tank roof is certified to CSA B66-10 standards, and it provides greater sealing of concrete manhole extensions. In addition, there are ultra-rib (plastic) extensions. Flexible rubber intake of 4 inches in diameter to prevent failures caused by movement of the home sewer line. a 2″ PVC outlet with a threaded connection for improved connecting of pressure lines to the pump and septic field; Materials and craftsmanship are covered by a 20-year limited guarantee.
How Do Septic Tanks Work?
Septic tanks function in the following ways:
- The intake pipe is responsible for directing wastewater from your house into the septic tank. Using the working chamber, it is possible to separate heavy materials from lighter fats, oils, and greases. Transfer of the liquid, also known as effluent, from a baffle to the pump chamber. The wastewater is transported to a septic field by a siphon assembly or an electric pump. The septic field is generally comprised of an arrangement of perforated pipe contained within a trench. In the process of draining through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater.
It is necessary to consider site considerations such as altitudes, lot size, soil types, and municipal regulations while designing a septic field. So, qualified installers and professional designers are typically tasked with the task of creating septic system designs.
What Size Septic Tank Do I Need?
It is necessary to consider site considerations such as altitudes, lot size, soil types, and municipal legislation while designing a septic field system. So, qualified installers and professional designers are typically tasked with the task of creating septic system plans.
Which Type of Septic Tank is Best? Concrete vs. Plastic Septic Tanks
Concrete septic tanks have various advantages over plastic septic tanks, including the following:
- A concrete septic tank weighs substantially more than a plastic tank of the same size. Concrete tanks will not float as a consequence
- The long-term performance of a plastic tank is dependent on the care used during installation to ensure that the tank’s support structure is achieved. Concrete septic tanks, on the other hand, have structural stability built in from the beginning. Plastic tanks are more prone to damage, and additional precautions must be taken to ensure that they do not develop punctures during the backfilling process to prevent this. Constructed concrete septic tanks, on the other hand, are extremely long-lasting and sturdy
How Deep Do I Bury My Septic Tank?
Site considerations such as the frost line have a considerable influence on the depth of a septic tank’s underground burial. As a result, burial depths are typically between 2′ and 10′ below the surface of the soil. Our 1220P and 1518P models offer the highest burial depth ratings in the underground concrete tank industry, and they are available in two sizes. Please get in touch with us if you require any information on sewage systems in Alberta or if you would want to be referred to a licensed installer.
How Your Septic System Works
Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.
Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.
Prior to discharging wastewater into the environment, several alternative systems are designed to evaporate or disinfect the effluent.
Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:
- All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.
The Guadalupe-Blanco River Authority has built an animated, interactive model of how a residential septic system works, which you can view here.
Do you have a septic system?
It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system. If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:
- You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system
How to find your septic system
You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:
- Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
- Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
- Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it
Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!
Examining the “as constructed” drawing of your house; Checking for lids and manhole covers in your yard. A septic system service company who can assist you in locating it is to be sought.
- Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
- It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement
- A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield