Darkroom Septic Tank How To Wash?

Cleaning it is the easy part. All you have to do is hold the filter over the tank and spray it with a house. Alternatively, you can just dip it in a bucket of water and spray it there until it’s completely clean.

Can I clean my septic tank myself?

Can You Clean a Septic Tank Yourself? Technically, you can clean a septic tank yourself. If done incorrectly, you can damage your tank, improperly dispose of waste, or fail to remove all of the waste from the tank. You should hire a professional to clean your septic tank for many reasons.

How do I clean my septic tank naturally?

You can mix about a 1/4 cup of baking soda with 1/2 cup of vinegar and 2 tablespoons lemon to make your own natural cleaning agent. The baking soda will fizz up to help get the dirt and grime in your tub and drains. It’s a great cleaner and your septic system will thank you!

Can I use washing machine cleaner with a septic tank?

Whether you use powder, tablets or liquid capsules, the major brands of detergent on the shelves right now are free from nasty phosphates and therefore are safe for use with your septic tank.

What are the signs that your septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.

You Hear Gurgling Water.
You Have A Sewage Backup.
How often should you empty your septic tank?

How do you tell if your septic tank is full?

How to tell your septic tank is full and needs emptying

Pooling water.
Slow drains.

Odours.
An overly healthy lawn.
Sewer backup.

Gurgling Pipes.
Trouble Flushing.

How often should I clean my septic tank?

Inspect and Pump Frequently The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.

How often should you clean your septic tank filter?

As a rule of thumb, you should always clean the septic tank filter when doing your routine pumping. But since this will typically be after a couple of years, you should inspect the filter twice a year – just before winter and right after winter. It is best to use a filter that has an alarm.

What to put in septic tank to break down solids?

Yeast helps actively breaks down waste solids when added to your septic system. Flush ½ cup of dry baking yeast down the toilet, the first time. Add ¼ cup of instant yeast every 4 months, after the initial addition.

Why does my septic tank stink?

Smelly septic tanks are a result of the presence of gases in the system, including hydrogen sulfide, carbon dioxide and methane. The pH levels in these gases are too acidic for the microorganisms in the tank to digest the organic matter, causing the tank to smell.

How do you dissolve sludge in a septic tank?

How to Reduce Sludge in a Septic Tank Without Pumping

Install an aeration system with diffused air in your septic tank.
Break up any compacted sludge.

Add a bio-activator or microbe blend.
Maintain the aeration system.
Add additional Microbes as required.

How do I know when my septic tank needs emptying?

Here are some of the signs for which you should look.

Water puddling above the septic tank. So you noticed a small pool of water but it didn’t rain?
Drains moving slowly. If the drain is moving slowly when you flush the toilet, it could be due to a clog.

Bad smells coming from the septic tank.
The sewer has backed up.

Is biological washing powder OK for septic tanks?

Bio-D Laundry Liquid with Lavender In addition to being safe for use with septic tanks, the detergent is recognised by Allergy UK, and makes use of recycled and recyclable packaging.

Can I use bleach if I have a septic tank?

You might consider bleach to be a great cleaner to use for your septic system. Unfortunately, that mindset is a dangerous one to have because it’s usually recommended to avoid using bleach in your septic system. The chemicals within bleach can kill the bacteria that your septic tank relies on.

What shampoo should I use with a septic tank?

If you have a septic system, it is recommended that you use septic safe shampoo. It is better for the environment and can help your septic system last as long as it should.

darkroom drain/ septic system

Greetings to everyone. After a 20-year hiatus, I’m finally getting around to building a new darkroom in my house! The issue I’m currently dealing with is that I live in a well/septic area, which means I don’t have access to city water or sewer services. I’m aware that the fixer is detrimental to the septic system, and that the developer is not particularly friendly to the surrounding environment. How do any of you who are in this situation deal with the drainage of wash water? Because I work in a local area, I can recycle the fixer at a local facility and dispose of the developer (diluted) in the city sewer system without having to travel far. But what exactly are the issues with wash water and safe runoff in the first place? Because my well is on my property, I would prefer not to simply let the wash water run off into the ground and into my water supply if it poses a health risk. Thank you in advance for any suggestions. Terry

Hello, Terry! We also have a septic system. So far, I’ve decided to keep my used fixer while I look for a safe recycling method. I have disposed of my developerstop bath. When it comes to the film developer, I mix it with about a gallon of water and flush it down the toilet with the water from the rinses in between developmentfixes and developmentfix. When I am finished with the paper chemicals, I mix the developer and turn off the bath. my primary rinse water, which was approximately 2 1/2 gallons. I flush that down the toilet and then flush the rinse water from cleaning the trays down the toilet. We have a kind of advanced septic system that is required by law in the event that your septic system decides to take a vacation and refuses to perform its duties. It’s referred to as a mound system. My joke is that in a thousand years, when archeologists discover it, they will be perplexed as to what the hell we were worshipping here! haha Our well is here, too, but with this mound system, there is little chance of contamination. I was told that the same is true of traditional septic systems. if we were concerned about contamination from the small amount of chemical that will get dumped, shouldn’t we be more concerned about the ‘normal’ things that go in there? haha You do not say what area of the country (this or another) you are in, so I am hoping that this will help anyway! Jeanette

AggieMember

Date of joining: January 1, 2003 Location:So. UtahShooter: Multi-Format Shooter It does not pose a challenge for any of them to handle the quantities of substances you would be introducing into your spetic system (except color chemistry) Putting it in a separate tank and mixing it with all of your rinse water and wash water would result in a highly effective grass fertilizer. Bruce Barnbaum told us how he came across this, and I have since tested it out in my own backyard, and it is really effective. As for the silver that is included in the repair, it is such a minute amount that it is not a concern at all. If you are concerned, you should invest in a silver recovery system. Some of the home cleansers you use are far more dangerous than the photo chems you’ve been exposed to. Hey, Terry, they’re all going down the drain. A local garbage hauler has provided me with a three-hundred-gallon tank. All of my chemicals, including developer, fix, and fix remover, are stored in there. My wash water is saved in a huge bin and then sent through a “trickle tank,” which brings me down to the legal limit in my area, which is 1 part per million (pt/m). If I print a lot, he will transport the tank once or twice a year depending on how much I print, and I will receive a check for 30-40$ for the silver he processes, so it will only cost me 10-20$ every “haul.” While I understand that many people dilute and dump (in fact, many places recommend mixing everything except the fixer together so that it neutralizes – since it is only the ph they are concerned with with non-fixer b w photo-chemicals), I’d rather my children not play in a yard covered with develper/fixerC, or have it end up in my vegtable garden, let alone my water supply. I wish you the best of success going through all of this information
I am confident that you will receive a variety of diverse proposals. – john

If it’s the Silver that’s the issue, why not put some wire wool in it and see if it helps? While it is not economically feasible to recover the silver, you may at least dispose of the desilvered fix in the septic tank at a very minimal cost. Perhaps, if you preserve enough of the leftover wire wool, you will be able to purchase a roll of the final Tmax to come off the production line
Darkroom waste The B+W chemicals are not harmful to your septic system
In fact, an article in the March 2000 edition of Photo Technology said as much. Rather of dumping selenium toner or any toner down your septic system, I recommend putting the toner in a try or bucket and letting it sit for a while until the water evaporates and only the metal remains. Another Barnbuam suggestion: I was under the impression that the biggest danger with selenium was when it was in powder form and was inhaled. I would assume that drying it out would be the last thing you would want to do in such an emergency. I’ve heard that you should simply load all of your garbage prints into it and leave it for a few days. This removes all of the selenium from the solution, allowing you to securely dispose of the remainder. Personally, I just flush developer and used toner (both of which have been handled as described above) down the toilet. Each year, the color chemicals and the fixer are sent to the local hazardous waste collection facility.

Darkroom chemestry and a septic system

A septic system, as well as darkroom chemistry Tuesday, September 21st, 2016 08:09:21 I am now in the process of constructing a home that will have a septic system. In the basement, there will be a darkroom. What will T-Max, Kodak stop and mend do to my septic system is a mystery to me. It is unlikely that color chemistry will be an issue due to the fact that Illfochrome soup is virtually completely absent. 21st of September, 2016 08:20:06 NikonADDICT wrote:I am now in the process of developing a house that will have a sewer system installed as part of the design.

What will T-Max, Kodak stop and mend do to my septic system is a mystery to me.
That’s something I’ve thought about a lot.

September 21, 2016 at 8:21:27 a.m.
(We have a septic tank in our home.) Tuesday, September 21st, 2016 08:22:24 The stop is quite near to vinegar, so it shouldn’t be an issue.
In high school, I experimented with several different developers and would often create my own from the ground up.

The solution is to dilute the problem.
21st of September, 2016 08:28:55 Japakomom Loc: Born in the Last Frontier, originally from the United States of America I would contact the public works (trash) department of your county or, if you live inside city or town lines, the municipal waste department to see what they have to say.

Placing chemicals in your septic system, which would ultimately leak into the ground water, would not be a wise decision.

In the basement, there will be a darkroom.

It is unlikely that color chemistry will be an issue due to the fact that Illfochrome soup is virtually completely absent.

My parents’ house, which used to have a septic tank, had a darkroom that I used for photography.

Silver is a dangerous heavy metal that should be avoided.

Silver recovery, on the other hand, pays for itself.

Thank you to everyone.

A program like this exists in our city.

Tuesday, September 21st, 2016 08:55:53 jaymatt Alexandria, Indiana is the location.

In the basement, there will be a darkroom.

It is unlikely that color chemistry will be an issue due to the fact that Illfochrome soup is virtually completely absent.

For many years, I used a darkroom that discharged into a septic tank.

Then he smiled and told me that they didn’t stand a chance against all of the other items that go down the drain as well.

Tuesday, September 21st, 2016 09:23:08 jaymatt penned the following: There is no action.

During one of the pumping sessions, I inquired of the individual doing the pumping (who happened to be the owner of the firm and had been in the industry for many years) about the effect the chemicals had on the system.

Having received such advice, I would advise you not to be concerned about it.

Do you have confidence in the person who will come in and clear your clogged septic tanks?

Tuesday, September 21st, 2016 09:24:32 For the past seven years, I have been operating a darkroom on a septic system.

There have been no issues for me.

Over time, it leaches out and into the groundwater supply system.

After all, who cares about what is seeping into the groundwater?

21st of September, 2016 09:30:53 jaymatt is based in Alexandria, Indiana.

I would not do so.

He is, as they say, a well-trained professional who is well-versed in his field.

JaymattLocation: Alexandria, Indiana Date: September 21, 2016 09:32:00 When people with septic systems “have had no difficulties,” it is comforting to hear that they haven’t had any issues.

Over time, it leaches out and into the groundwater supply system.

After all, who cares about what is seeping into the groundwater?

Tuesday, September 21st, 2016 09:48:26 selmslie Location: Fernandina Beach, Florida, United States NikonADDICT wrote:I am now in the process of developing a house that will have a sewer system installed as part of the design.

What will T-Max, Kodak stop and mend do to my septic system is a mystery to me.

For 35 years, I worked in a darkroom in a home with a septic tank on the property.

Cibachrome (Ilfochrome) was my first choice because it was known to be self-neutralizing, and I eventually progressed to more common B W chemicals, which may or may not have been self neutralizing.

It should be noted that the developer is the only chemical that was consistently dumped during the B W process.

When utilized in little quantities, they were never an issue.

It never bothered me since, throughout the course of that period, I only drank around 3 liters of the original concentrate.

A high-volume manufacturing lab, on the other hand, may be a different story. If you want to respond, you must first register. Registration is completely free, and your account is generated immediately, allowing you to start posting right away.

Effects of B&W Rinse Waters into Septic/Drainfield Systems?

Neil, Here is a summary of my observations and recommendations. These are based on the fact that I have been using a darkroom with a septic system for more than ten years without experiencing any difficulties. Currently, I’ve relocated and am using municipal water while also constructing a new darkroom. In the first instance, Kodak has shifted its attitude on low-volume photo effluent. Back in the day, previous versions of J-300 pushed for simply flushing everything down the toilet, even septic systems.

It is the realization that silver is not a good substance to dump into the environment, as well as the opaque system of newer environmental regulations that have made it impossible to recommend anything other than “check with local authorities” and “we do not recommend” that has caused the most change.

Having said that, I was cautious to employ the chemistry to its limits and to combine the stop and developer first to neutralize them before using them (this latter only when the stop went bad, often I dumped developer without adding stop to it, just flushed with plenty of water).

And my volume is not that large: maybe a gallon or two of stock Bromophen every year, 500mL-1L of stock PMK sol A, and the downstream chemicals that go along with that are all I do.
The wisest course of action in this situation is to reclaim the silver in some way.
When they went out of business, I began collecting my fix and delivering it to the nearest biohazard disposal facility.

Staff members are educated to treat everything the same way, as if it were nerve gas or anthrax infected clothing.
Not only is it unneeded, but it is also ineffective and expensive.
I understand that you have a plan in place for disposing of your chemicals, but if you can locate a photofinisher that will accept your old fix, it would be far more ecologically friendly than transporting it to the hazmat team.

As an alternative, I’ll get one of jnanian’s silver magnets and do the task by hand.

It might also occur in a septic system.

You have the ability to do so as well.

Washed effluent should include very little of anything and should be extremely dilute in order to pose no threat to a septic system, especially one of considerable size.

Having said that, using a tray of wash-aid followed by a tray of water can help to further reduce the amount of fixer and other residue that makes its way into the washer.

Both the wash-aid and the tray of water should be treated as “chemicals,” and you can reserve them for later collection if you like.

By the way, even silver that makes its way into the septic system is transformed into silver-sulfur compounds that are insoluble and non-toxic.

Trace quantities will not be able to do this.

Unfortunately, I am unable to provide you with any supporting documents.

A wash-aid treatment substitutes silver-thiosulfate compounds in the paper/film with sodium sulfite, resulting in an even greater reduction in the quantity of silver carried over.

Please also get in touch with Bruce Barlow (he’s a member here, or at APUG, or both) about this. He has a quite large darkroom that operates on a septic system, and he is likely to be able to provide useful advise. Best, Doremus

Disposing of Chemicals in a Septic Tank

Shucks! I guess I’ll have to give up on my idea of keeping a small tray of fixer next to my computer just to relive the nostalgia of that wonderful darkroom smell for a little while longer. My father has been interested in photography since he was 15 years old, when he purchased his first camera. I grew up in a home with a dedicated darkroom that was always open. If someone spends several hours every day in such an environment, I believe that the fumes emitted by those chemicals will eventually be harmful to that person’s health.

Instead of a large-scale commercial enterprise, the original question was in reference to the establishment of a small-scale domestic darkroom business.

If you wanted to be extra picky, you could line the pit with builders’ plastic and fill it with sawdust before digging.

In the following years, you could remove the plastic and discard it, leaving behind dried chemicals and sawdust compost, and try your hand at growing tomatoes.

Darkroom + Septic Tank

Shucks! Perhaps it’s best if I abandon my plan to have a tiny tray of fixer next to my computer, if only for the remembrance of that wonderful darkroom fragrance. Beginning at the age of 15, when he received his first camera, my father had a strong interest in amateur photography. When I was growing up, there was a darkroom in the house all of the time. If someone spends many hours every day in such a setting, I feel that the fumes from those chemicals will eventually be damaging to them. At the age of 96, my father was still going strong and healthy.

When disposed of in a small pit in the backyard, tiny quantities of waste developer and fixer should pose no problems.

This would allow the chemicals to gently evaporate while keeping them from soaking into the soil thanks to the sawdust and plastic covering.

A squeeze of lime juice may be necessary.

How To Dispose Of Film Developing Chemicals

The 29th of August, 2019

It is important to know how to dispose of film developing chemicals correctly. This guide will explain the options for getting rid of your waste chemistry.

We believe that starting the development of your film at home is a fantastic concept. On the negative side, you will have to dispose of the film development chemicals when you are finished with your project. If you are new to film photography, this might be an intimidating notion for some people. But don’t fear, there are some basic steps you can take to get started.

Disposal Of Waste Chemistry

First and foremost, you should package all of your waste chemicals in appropriate plastic containers. Different chemicals should not be combined, and they should be kept in separate containers to avoid contamination. Make certain that they are well labeled as well, as it is critical that these liquids can be identified quickly. All sections of the country should have procedures in place for dealing with small quantities of used or undesired home chemicals, which should be coordinated by the local authorities.

By bringing your waste chemicals to us, you can rest assured that they will be disposed of properly.

If you’re lucky, your local government may already have systems in place for the collection of hazardous trash. You will need to speak with them personally in order to determine whether or not this is an option.

Other Disposal Options

Depending on the circumstances, some of these disposal alternatives may not be viable. Manufacturers advise that tiny amounts of chemicals can be diluted with water and flushed down the toilet in this situation. Although it is never a good idea to dump leftover chemicals into a septic tank since this can cause damage and reduce the efficacy of the tank. Although this is not the most optimal approach, it is possible to dispose of small amounts of developers and end baths in this manner without causing too much damage.

The silver content can be recovered using several ways, for as by keeping a ball of steel wool in the liquid for a period of time.

A better alternative would be to visit a local darkroom or photo studio for assistance.

Keep in mind that these firms will have to pay for their garbage collection services, and they may charge you for the privilege of bringing your waste chemicals to their facility.

Environmental Impact

The chemical used in film development is not very dangerous, but it must be handled correctly. Therefore, you should always read the Health and Safety recommendations of any product you want to use before starting. It is critical to ensure that waste items are disposed of properly for the sake of both public health and environmental health. Pouring waste chemicals down the drain should only be done as a last option in most cases. As a manufactured product, it has the potential to do damage to the environment and public health if not handled properly.

If you are unclear of how to properly dispose of film development chemicals, store them in firmly sealed bottles and get guidance from your local authorities on how to do so properly.
Businesses will be required to engage the services of a licensed garbage disposal operator.

Take a look at our guide.
Additionally, you might be interested in our instructions on How to Develop Black and White Film and How to Develop Color Film.

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NewsGuidesCommunity Review of a film Developing Times for a Film Selecting Your FilmDeveloping Your Film

Health and Safety

Specifically, this part provides information to our customers on the safe handling, use, and storage of our photochemical solutions, as well as best practices for waste disposal and specific information for women who are pregnant or nursing a child.

HARMAN photochemistry solutions are chemically safe, and the Safety Data Sheets provide detailed information on this (known as SDS or MSDS)

24 HOUR OHES emergency line for advice on chemical incidents

This section provides information to our customers on the safe handling, use, and storage of our photochemical solutions, as well as best practices for waste disposal and information relevant to women who are pregnant or nursing a child. a. If you are seeking for information on the chemical safety of HARMAN photochemistry solutions, please consult the Safety Data Sheets (known as SDS or MSDS)

Waste disposal for photographic products

The following information is specific to the United Kingdom. Users in other countries should look into their own national and municipal systems for dealing with domestic chemical wastes before making a decision. Local authorities in the United Kingdom shall provide provisions for the collection of small amounts of spent or undesired chemical waste (such as paint, cleaning agents, bleach, weed killer, and other similar substances) at Household Waste and Recycling Centers. There is frequently a “chemical cabinet” where chemicals are stored until they are needed.

Chemistry should be packaged and labeled separately from other substances.
Domestic users should look at the arrangements that are in place in their immediate vicinity.

When disposing of chemicals, do not combine them.
It is recommended that small quantities of scrap film and paper be disposed of like normal household garbage.

Business and Trade users

Scrap film and paper, as well as any used or undesired processing chemicals, should be disposed of through a licensed waste disposal operator. In the waste treatment process, the recovery of silver from old fixer, film, and paper is a critical aspect of the process. Different types of waste chemicals should not be combined; instead, they should be maintained in separate containers that are clearly labeled with the relevant information.

Pregnant and Breast Feeding Women

HARMAN photochemical products in a darkroom or photolab can be used safely by pregnant and nursing women, provided that sufficient control measures are in place, such as excellent working habits, adequate ventilation, and the use of appropriate personal protective equipment (such as gloves, lab coat and safety glasses). An expectant mother or a mother returning to work while breastfeeding should always have a specific risk assessment completed, which takes into account the likelihood of all potential hazards that could cause harm, such as repeated or heavy lifting, working at height, working in tight spaces, as well as exposure to chemicals, and identifies any changes to working practices or conditions that may be required.

This is always a good practice.

Photochems are no exception to this rule.

ILFORD Photo products do not contain any chemicals that have been identified as potentially harmful to nursing infants.

Some photochemicals include components that may be harmful to an unborn child if used during pregnancy. This is totally prevented by the standard control procedures outlined above. The most important thing to remember is to prevent direct contact by wearing the protective equipment specified above.

Your family and pets

Processing chemicals, like other chemical goods, should be recognized as potentially detrimental to members of your family as well as your pets, and this is especially true for children. As a result, you should make it exceedingly difficult, if not impossible, for children and pets to obtain photochemical solutions and powders by any means. The photographic processing chemicals from HARMAN should be used in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Under the condition that common sense working techniques and hygiene standards are followed, any health hazards related with these compounds will be properly controlled.

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LESS FREQUENT PUMPINGS, MORE MONEY IN YOUR POCKET

Our septic system treatment is undoubtedly an investment worth making. The beneficial bacteria in our self-dissolving packets convert solid waste into liquids and gas that can then be released into your system’s leach field. This means less frequent professional septic pumpings, and more money in your pocket.

JUST DROP, FLUSH,REPEAT

It really is THAT SIMPLE. Once a month, drop a packet into your toilet and flush. Then repeat next month. The active bacteria cultures go to work immediately, digesting solid waste and even helping to dissolve toilet paper!

ALL NATURALSAFE FOR ALL PLUMBING LINES

MightyForce’s septic tank treatments use all natural ingredients that are completely safe for your plumbing pipes and holding tank. Our septic treatment is proudly made right here in the USA.

Maintain Your Septic System Naturally

On December 5, 2020, the information was updated. However, while this isn’t an enjoyable topic for polite discussion, having your septic system back up into your home is far from pleasant. There are actions that you can do to not only avoid septic issues in the future, but also to guarantee that the process of breaking down flushed waste proceeds as it should.

A Well-Functioning Septic System

The title of this article may be “The Care and Maintenance of the Gut in Your Yard,” which would be more descriptive. Understanding the necessity and advantages of eating dietary fiber, alkaline-forming foods, and taking probiotics for your own gut health will help you recognize the similarities between keeping a healthy septic system and maintaining a healthy digestive system. There are some items that you should avoid putting into any septic system, just as there are certain substances that are favorable to putting into our own digestive systems.

If you wait until there is a problem, you have waited too long and should contact a septic cleaning firm to pump your tank immediately.

Septic System Care and Maintenance Tips:

A family of four living in a house with a 1,000-gallon tank should have their septic system cleaned every four years, according to the EPA. Inquire with your local septic cleaning firm about how frequently you should contact them
Avoid using bleach-containing solutions to clean your toilets since it kills the bacteria that are necessary for the breakdown of waste particles in your septic system. Try this all-natural toilet cleanser

It works great.

When you add yeast to your septic system, it helps to aggressively break down waste particles, which is beneficial. Using the first time, flush a 12-cup package of dried baking yeast down the toilet. After the initial addition, add 14 cup of instant yeast every 4 months for the next 4 months. For those who are planning to install or have their existing septic system pumped, it’s a good idea to know precisely where it is in your yard so that you don’t have to dig up a lot of your lawn when the system is pumped in the future. With a tape measure, measure the precise distance between the septic tank lid and the home, and then snap a photo of the exact distance with your mobile phone to prove you were accurate. Maintain a copy of the snapshot in a home maintenance file on your computer for future reference.

Deborah Tukua

Deborah Tukua is a natural living and healthy lifestyle writer who has written seven non-fiction books, including Naturally Sweet Blender Treats. She lives in Hawaii with her family. Since 2004, she has contributed to the Farmers’ Almanac as a writer.

Keep Exploring

Darkroom chemicals are discussed in detail in this section. smudgeg 12:34 p.m. on June 23rd, 2014 Greetings, and good day. .and again another query from a newcomer! – I have recently completed the setup of my own darkroom and will be in a position to begin printing soon after having completed my first film developing experiment. My issue is about the disposal of chemicals—are they safe to flush down the toilet and, in our instance, are they okay to flush down the septic tank drain? My family and I reside in a rural part of Scotland, and I would hate to see those pleasant tiny bugs in the septic tanks, who do such an excellent job, ruined by harmful darkroom chemicals.

Argentum At 7:07 p.m.
However, always read the directions before using any chemicals, and if you begin to purchase and use some of the more unusual chemicals, you may need to exercise caution depending on what you are dealing with.

Silver (Ag) is a chemical compound that is utilized in medicine as an antibacterial agent.
See: That is something I am not sure of.
Normally, it would get so diluted that it would not be a concern in the sewer system.
Argentum On the 24th of June, 2014, at 02:18 PM Some individuals have reported that they may safely dump their used fixer on their flower beds without experiencing any problems.
12:38 p.m.

Depending on your soil, you may also want to use a selenium toner.

Sodium thio does not appear to be very effective as a fertilizer, according to my research.

At 3:23 p.m.

I would also be cautious about putting chemicals into the surrounding land.

When we do, I pour them onto a shallow tray and allow them to evaporate.

Here are a couple key points: Cover the tray with a thin mesh to prevent animals from going inside.

It is not necessary to have extremely hot weather; all that is required is a surface area that is as large as possible; otherwise, it is simply a gigantic puddle.

Ian, having lived in the OP’s region many years ago, knows that the chances of a long enough hot dry spell to do what you can achieve in Portugal by evaporation are, to put it mildly, slim.

I’d start with the final option and see how it goes.

I’m curious as to how they managed it.

Neil on the 24th of June 2014 at 06:05 p.m.

I just didn’t think it would be a smart idea at the time – there was no actual scientific information readily available at the time, so I went with my instincts.

The loganberries were abundant and we survived to tell the tale:)Neil.big paul on June 24, 2014 at 9:02 p.m.

It hasn’t done me any damage since I started using it in 1969 and I haven’t had any problems with it since then.

www.essexcockney.com MikeHeller 25th of June, 2014 at 10:37 a.m.

There have been no issues that I have discovered.

It all comes down to relative quantities and concentrations when it comes to putting stuff down the drain and having an impact on the environment.

on June 25th, 2014 Thank you very much for your responses, everyone.

I will not be utilizing large quantities, thus I will not be doing this on a regular basis.

A thankful German cement factory situated in the United Kingdom was informed of the overflows, which were gathered by huge finisher laboratories that were recycling developers and desilvering fix, according to what I heard.

This form of therapy is the most ecologically friendly available.

Introducing them into the environment: DJOReynolds At 8:50 a.m.

Introducing them into the environment:D Yes, the sulphates from the developers and desilvered fix are added to the gypsum (sulphates) in the mix, which is a good thing.

The iron (derived from ferric EDTA) constitutes a very minor proportion of the photo-effluent and has no discernible impact on the quality of the cement produced from it.

on June 27, 2014, There are millions of flights per year, with aeroplanes spewing out their fumes into the atmosphere, and millions of car journeys per year, also spewing out their fumes into the atmosphere; and because I leave my television on standby, I am being held responsible for global warming; I believe that the photographic chemicals that are being flushed down the toilet are the least of our concerns.

We shouldn’t be overly concerned about people’s safety; I have yet to hear of anyone dying as a result of dev stop or repair; you have a better probability of dying from eating a packet of peanuts.
Please accept my apologies for the complaint.
on June 27, 2014, I was making light of the situation.
After weighing what we are given by the media against what the world’s leaders are actually doing to combat environmental degradation, I have decided to cease worrying about the issue altogether.
It just appears that individuals enjoy pointing the finger at others without taking responsibility for their own actions.
There are a large number of individuals who believe that by washing their bottles and donating them to the bottle bank, they are contributing to the preservation of the environment.
This is the end of my rant.
I had the good fortune to have a successful career in scientific research and analytical chemistry before deciding to devote my entire time to photography.

Approximately one hundred times every year, and has done so for at least half a century, people experience concern over “no fixer down the drain.” Households linked to a sewer line or a properly functioning septic system are exempt from the following restrictions, which do not apply to industrial-scale photo materials manufacture or large-scale processing labs: Devlopers act as moderate reducing agents that decompose quickly into harmless by-products.

In comparison to a dishwasher, an in-sink garbage disposal machine, or a toilet, the BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand) difficulty posed by a home darkroom is much (significantly!) lower.
Silver tetrathionate and related chemicals, which characterize the fixer in use, are not harmful to sewage treatment systems or septic systems when used in moderate quantities (ounces, not tons).
Sulphide silver is a geologically stable and biologically inert element with one of the lowest solubility products known to science, according to the American Chemical Society.
Make your own assumptions and calculations.
No possible biological consequence can be reasonably envisioned at a concentration in the parts per billion level, I’m sure of it.
When it comes to the treatment plant, your particle of silver will be undetectable by any analytical technology now available.
In the course of my professional career, I have examined septic systems that have been “ruined” by people who have been involved in photographic processing.

It is possible that adding two or three hundred extra litres of water to a wastewater system for a few of days can dilute and impede the biological responses that process and neutralize the normal septic stream.

The world being what it is, many local effluent standards are written by lawyers and/or accountants who don’t know a thing about chemistry but are well versed in the law of culpability and civil litigation.

Here’s an example of an usual calculation: A home darkroom may process up to 2000 sheets of 8×10 black and white photographic paper every year, depending on the size of the darkroom.

The net return after refining expenses might be as high as $30 per annum on today’s silver market if, instead of being disposed of, a significant portion of the silver is recovered and sold.

Others argue that silver is a limited resource that should be protected as much as possible.

In the event that you chose to check with local authorities and ask their permission for what you want to do, and they hide their information gap by saying no to you, I suppose you must comply.

on June 28, 2014, Thanks Maris, thank you for putting up such a great overview, which I don’t believe I have ever seen before.

Mike O’Pray (Mike O’Pray) The 28th of June, 2014, at 01:36 p.m.

MikepeterlgPosted on June 29, 2014, 10:38 a.m.

This is simply another illustration of how beneficial FADU is!

on June 29, 2014, Yes, thank you very much, Maris.

on July 1, 2014, at 3:36 p.m., smudgeg Thank you for your extremely detailed response – you can’t argue with a man who knows what he’s talking about!

on the 5th of July, 2014, by Ian Thank you for your thorough response. It certainly helped to put my mind at ease. The IanvBulletin® version 3.8.4 software is protected by Copyright 2000-2022 by Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Lewis and Clark County: Septic System Owners

Septic System Owners Should Read This But they are never far from our thoughts and feelings. When you run the dishwasher, flush the toilet, or do a load of laundry, what happens? We don’t give much thought to the disposal of waste water in our daily lives. So, what happens to all of this stuff? The aseptic system is a vital element of your house, and it requires the same level of maintenance as your automobile. This entails having your system examined by a professional on a regular basis and pumping your septic tank as needed.

Increase the longevity of your septic system.
However, there are certain everyday steps you can take to ensure that your septic system continues to perform properly.
Toilet paper is the only other item that should be flushed, aside from waste water and human waste.
Don’t flush food down the toilet or down the drain.
In reality, these are detrimental to the septic tank.
This will save you money on unneeded septic system maintenance.
The presence of a trash disposal does not make the disposal of food waste, grease, or fat any easier on your digestive system.
Don’t flush dangerous things down the toilet or down the drain.
It is possible that even simple actions such as washing paintbrushes in the sink or toilet allow enough paint to go to your tank to damage the tank’s performance.
Water conservation helps to safeguard your septic system by reducing the amount of wastewater that has to be handled by your septic system.

Turn off the water when you’re brushing your teeth or shaving your legs.

Water consumption should be balanced throughout the week.

In the event that your septic system receives a big amount of water in a short period of time, it may cause sediments to flow into the drainfield, which may result in a backup of wastewater. Spread out your washing chores over the course of the week rather than doing them all at once.

Develop Film at Home! A Step-by-Step Guide

When it comes to dealing with film nowadays, one of the most scary things is the lack of accessibility and availability of processing resources. Considering that professional laboratories are becoming more scarce in most parts of the globe, with the exception of big urban areas, developing one’s own film is one of the few remaining possibilities for the photographer who still wishes to shoot on film. The good news is that developing film at home is very simple, needs few instruments and takes up very little space, and produces results that are superior than those obtained from most commercial facilities.

The Tools You Need

Constructing an inexpensive black and white film developing supply kit is simple and should take up approximately the same amount of space as the typical loaf of bread. The majority of this essay will focus on roll film photography for the purpose of familiarity, however there are some interesting choices for sheet film shooters as well.

Developing Tank

An image development tank is a vessel that holds your film and chemicals in place while also preventing light from exposing your image throughout the developing process. The Patterson tank system is the industry standard for plastic tanks, and it includes everything you need to get started, with the exception of reels. Tanks made of stainless steel for roll film are also available in normal sizes, and they provide greater durability and temperature retention. Whatever method you choose, bear in mind that plastic reels must be used with plastic tanks and stainless steel reels must be used with stainless steel tanks, among other considerations.

Reels

Another component of film development is a reel, or more than likely a number of reels, for your film. If you want to develop numerous rolls of film at the same time, you may purchase tanks that hold multiple reels at the same time. Plastic reels, according to the author, are easier to load than metal reels because of the ratcheting technique that is used to spiral film around them. Steel reels are more difficult to learn, but when combined with a steel tank, they require less chemistry throughout the processing process to function well.

Chemistry

In the most basic sense, all you need is developer, fixer, and water to get started.

Graduates

Graduates, or other measurement containers, that are specialized and accurate are required. It is critical to accurately measure the correct amount of chemistry for developing, and it is as critical to accurately measure the correct dilutions for combining chemistry. A minimum of two or more graduates of varied sizes is advised; tiny graduates are more accurate, bigger graduates clearly hold more chemistry, and numerous graduates are required so that developer and fixer solutions do not cross-contaminate.

Storage Bottles

The quantity of chemicals you use will determine how many working and stock solutions you need to have on hand. Working and stock solutions should be stored in clearly labeled storage containers for easy access and to extend their working life.

This is determined by the chemical you are using as well as how frequently you will be developing film in the container. Bottle with Chemical Storage Capacity Delta 1 Datatainer

Film Clips

Film clips, while seemingly inconsequential, have shown to be far more effective than clothespins when it comes to air-drying your film. Delta 1 Stainless Steel Film Clips are made of stainless steel.

Thermometer

Another needed is a thermometer, and it’s crucial to buy one that’s specifically designed for film-developing purposes.

Stopwatch or Timer

In addition to these items, a thermometer should be purchased specifically for your film-developing requirements.

The Process

After you’ve gathered all of the resources you’ll need to grow, the fun part can begin. The following items are required in addition to the developing kit: a completely dark room (or a changing bag, if necessary), running water in the sink (make sure the faucet is high enough to accommodate your tank underneath), and a clean, dust-free area where you can hang your film to dry when you’re finished processing (I dry my film in the bathroom, hanging from a metal coat hanger that, itself, hangs from the shower-curtain rod).

You should sacrifice a roll of unexposed film to practice loading your reels if this is your first time developing film.

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Loading

The exciting part starts once you’ve gathered all of the resources you’ll need to grow. The following items are required in addition to the developing kit: a completely dark room (or a changing bag, if necessary), running water in the sink (make sure the faucet is high enough to accommodate your tank underneath), and a clean, dust-free area where you can hang your film to dry when you’re finished processing the images on it (I dry my film in the bathroom, hanging from a metal coat hanger that, itself, hangs from the shower-curtain rod).

As a beginner, it is worthwhile to sacrifice a roll of unexposed film to practice loading reels; depending on the sort of reels you have, make certain that you can load your film comfortably and effortlessly while maintaining complete control over the loading process with your eyes closed throughout.

Developing Preparation

After you have loaded your tank, head over to the sink that you will be using and put out all of the chemicals that you will need in premeasured proportions. Preparing adequate chemistry for the developer you will be using will depend on the dilution advised on the developer bottle. The amount of chemical required will be determined on the tank you are using. When working with liquids, it is crucial to remember that the temperature should be kept between 68 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit (20 and 21 degrees Celsius) for the most of the time.

If the water temperature is too hot or too cold, the contrast of the film may be substantially reduced, and the development time may be lengthened or shortened.

Additionally, before to commencing the procedure, make a note of the amount of time your film will require to develop.

In any event, these periods are referred to as “beginning times,” and they may be altered as you learn more about your own particular preferences for film exposure, printing, and scanning.

Developing

With your mixed developer at 68°F and your mixed fixer to the side, you may proceed to a pre-wetting step, which is optional but highly advised by the author of this article. Fill the tank with 68°F water until it is completely full, then allow the film to settle for 1 minute before draining. When you do this step, the film and tank are brought up to the temperature of the developer, anti-halation layers are rinsed off, and some believe the emulsion layer of the film is softened, making it more receptive to the developer—the only benefit I’m certain of is temperature stabilization, but it’s become a habit of mine over the years and has always resulted in successful results.

Then, slowly but steadily, pour in the mixed developer solution.
Depending on the tank you are using, you may utilize a variety of agitation techniques, ranging from entire inversion agitation to merely rotating your film with a spindle—I prefer to use a light inversion agitation method.
This agitation schedule is quite common; however, it can be modified based on the processing technique used, the developer type used, or to significantly adjust contrast.
Fill your tank with 68°F water as quickly as possible, then empty it and refill it with water.
This phase serves as a stop bath, bringing the growing activity to an end.
When it comes to stopping growing activity in my practice, water has nearly always been sufficient, and I’ve only seldom felt the need to employ a genuine stop bath.
Drain your tank and refill it with the fixer solution you prepared in step one of the stop bath procedure.

In most cases, fixing takes no more than 5 minutes in total; a minute or two over won’t harm, but the entire length of time is not as critical as the development stage is.

Now that the fixing has been completed, you are virtually through with the processing of your film and can remove the cover from your tank; however, it is recommended that you maintain your film on the reels for the washing procedure.

I believe this step is absolutely optional if you don’t mind spending a few more minutes washing your film, in the same way that stop bathing is optional.

This is my cleaning procedure.

Refill the tank once it has been well rinsed with a very weak solution of water and wetting agent and allow it to settle for approximately 30 seconds.

Then you may take your reels from the tank, pull your film from the reels, and use film clips to hang your film to dry while the reels are out of the tank.

Post Development

With your mixed developer at 68°F and your mixed fixer to the side, you may proceed to a pre-wetting step, which is optional but highly advised by the author. Water should be added to the tank until it is completely filled, and the film should be left for one minute. When you do this step, the film and tank are brought up to the temperature of the developer, anti-halation layers are rinsed off, and some believe the emulsion layer of the film is softened, making it more receptive to the developer.

After 1 minute, empty the water from your tank down the drain (don’t be concerned if the water turns a brilliant blue, dark purple, or another color—this is quite normal) and rapidly but gradually pour in the mixed developer solution.

A variety of agitation techniques may be used depending on the tank you’re working in, ranging from entire inversion agitation to merely rotating your film with a spindle—I prefer to utilize a light inversion agitation approach for my films.

After that, agitate the film for 10-15 seconds every 30 seconds.

Depending on whether you’re using a one-shot developer or a reusable developer, you’ll want to either dump your used developer down the drain or return it to its original container.

Continue to agitate for 30 seconds to 1 minute.

It is an alternative to employing appropriate stop bath chemistry, which is not recommended.

If your total developing time is less than 5 minutes, however, an appropriate acetic or citric acid stop bath can be utilized to more immediately end the developing operation in order to avoid overdevelopment of the material.

Prefer the development stage, I like to agitate for the first 30 seconds continually, then for 10 seconds every 30 seconds after that until the project is complete.

Make care to return the solution to your bottle using your fixer-specific funnel or graduation, and then preserve the solution in a safe location.

To reduce the amount of time spent washing, several people suggest the use of a hypo clear or washing aidstep.

After filling and emptying the tank with cold 68°F water three or four times, I slow the rate of the faucet and let the water to constantly fill and overflow in the tank for around 10 minutes.

The application of awetting agent to prevent water spots from appearing on your film after drying is an optional step that you may undertake after this rinse phase, and I strongly suggest it this time.

Then you may take your reels from the tank, pull your film from the reels, and use film clips to hang your film to dry while the reels are out of the water.