What To Do If Outlet Baffle Breaks Off Older Concrete Septic Tank? (Question)

  • The remains of the baffle should be removed by use of concrete saw or cold chisel and replaced with the sanitary tee connected to the outlet pipe. There may be the need to repair the concrete around the pipe or retrofit a rubber gasket to ensure the tank remains watertight and root free.

Can septic tank baffles be replaced?

If septic tank baffles are lost or damaged (rusted off on a steel tank or broken off on a concrete tank), they can be repaired or replaced. Baffles in a septic tank are provided to keep solids and floating scum and grease inside the tank.

How much does it cost to replace a baffle in a septic tank?

Repairing a baffle costs $300 to $900 on average. You may pay more if it’s tough to access. The baffle helps to prevent buildup in the incoming or outgoing pipes of the tank.

Do old septic tanks have baffles?

Older septic tanks – especially those made from concrete – tend to contain wall baffles. In most cases, wall baffles also consist of concrete, and are built directly into the side of the tank. Wall baffles also give incoming solids more space, thus reducing the likelihood of clogs.

How long do septic baffles last?

Inspectapedia estimates that a steel tank baffles will rust out in 15 to 20 years and may collapse if driven over, but a concrete tank will last 40 years or more as long as the wastewater is not acidic. It’s important to consider the life expectancy of a drain-field, too.

What is the purpose of a baffle in a septic tank?

The inlet baffle directs the flow of wastewater into your septic tank, and prevents the scum layer in the tank from being disturbed. It also can help prevent solids from backing up toward the house if you should experience a septic system backup.

Does a septic tank need an inlet baffle?

Inlet baffles are needed for proper performance of the septic tank. Raw sewage from the residence is directed by the baffle downward into the middle zone of the septic tank. This means the effluent follows a tortuous path through the tank, which provides the necessary detention time for the larger solids to settle out.

How often does a 1000 gallon septic tank need to be pumped?

For example, a 1,000 gallon septic tank, which is used by two people, should be pumped every 5.9 years. If there are eight people using a 1,000-gallon septic tank, it should be pumped every year.

How deep should a septic baffle be?

The inlet baffle should extend at least six inches below the invert of the pipe, but no more than 20% of the liquid depth. The outlet baffle should extend between 35 and 40% of the liquid depth.

Where is the inlet baffle in a septic tank?

The inlet baffle is situated at the junction between the septic tank and the main sewer line leading from the house. It’s designed to help wastewater flow smoothly into the tank without disturbing the scum layer.

How do you seal an outlet pipe on a septic tank?

The tar sealant can be used to fill the void between the concrete and pipe. Use a trowel to press the sealant into the void. If the rubber gasket is molded into the tank for the pipe, tighten it up.

Septic Tank has missing/broken baffle.

I realize this is an old thread, but I believe it may be of use to people who are looking for solutions, as I was. This is a rather typical issue. This is something I just went through. My system had backed up, so I had to have the tank drained out. My septic technician said that the filed lines would dry up while the tank was filling and then begin to function again. He never told me that the inlet and outflow baffles were located at the bottom of the tank, which I found out later. After the tank was refilled, the water quickly backed up.

(a) Improve the baffles so that it doesn’t happen in the future by adding more solids to the filed lines (or your new filed lines if you have to dig).

Typically, you will not be rebuilding the tank, but rather the field and leach lines.

2) Deal with the field lines in a professional manner.

  1. There are several options.
  2. Either the concrete formed baffle on a concrete tank or the concrete/tile pipe tee type baffle may be readily updated either by excavating around the tank and replacing a portion of pipe with PVC and a tee or by digging around the tank and replacing a segment of pipe with a tee.
  3. If you dig up and replace a portion of pipe, use hydraulic cement, such as Damtite Waterproofing, to seal the area around the new pipe to the tank.
  4. On the output side, I used tile/concrete pipe to keep the line as tight as possible (non perforated pipe to the filed lines).
  5. In order to drive into the existing pipe within the tank, PolyLok Extend and lockstubs are available for purchase separately.
  6. After that, you may attach a small portion of pipe and the tee to the new baffle you’ve created.
  7. You may generally have the lines blown out and the ground fractured or broken up using Tera-Lift when it comes to filed line repair.
  8. It also opens up the ground by breaking up the bio-mat and allowing for fresh drainage to be established.
  9. It is effective.

Old Septic System Baffle Repair

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Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Just had my very old septic system inspected and pumped. Turns out the concrete baffles have rotten and fallen into the tank. It’s not really feasible to use PVC tees as new baffles because the tank is so old that it has two clay outlet pipes. I was thinking about building some baffles out of stainless steel similar to the old concrete baffles and fastening them with tapcons to the septic walls. Is this a good idea?The outlet baffle looked like this _/ if you were looking from the top down into the septic tank, with the outlet pipe in between the opening. It probably went down about two feet. The inlet baffle seemed to just be a wall that went from one side of the tank to the other, but I’m not sure how far it went down.Edited 1 times.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:Dunbar (KY)Those baffles go to the bottom, and are designed as such to allow the first bay to take on most of the solids, second bay to settle waterborn particulates, third bay to be the finished “clear” effluent that safely distrubutes to the finger system of leaching fields.I haven’t seen John Aldrich “Septic Tank Yank” here in a long time. Anyone know of his whereabouts?His last post was around 318,000 and we’re at 383,000 on this thread.Right about the time I stopped getting emails from him. I hope all is well.-Always be aware of cross-connections in your potable water systems-They could one day harm you and your loved ones.Edited 2 times.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)Tank Yank would be the best source for this question however; from my limited experience this person is looking at replacing that old thing, you could image what the rest it of looks like, it’s lived it’s life and now a new one is needed.10-22-08, 8:18am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:hj (AZ)The outlet baffle is to prevent grease, etc., on top of the water from exiting through the outlet. The inlet baffle goes down to a point a foor or so above the floor to give the influent time to separate.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I understand that the system is very old and will need replacing, but it is still functioning and I would like to get as much life out of it as possible. Now isn’t the best time to be forking out $5,000-$10,000.After the tank was pumped, I could see the outlet baffle at the bottom of the tank and it definately was not long enough to go all the way to the bottom. The pump guy said it only runs down a couple of feet. He told me I shouldn’t really be concerned with the inlet baffle and it was the outlet baffle that was important. I’m just thinking something will be better than nothing so I can get some more life out of the system.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:dlh (TX)this isnt a car. i have never heard of anyone repairing a septic tank.i have found it is much better to bite the bullet now than it is to wait. waiting almost always means a larger bill in the end.-PLUMBERS “Protecting The Health Of The Nation”
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:yonson (SC)My septic guy told me the same thing when my exit collapsed (the exit is most important). He placed a “t” type port at the exit, but mine was PVC. An easy fix.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:LemonPlumber (FL)Do you have a scrap or 12″ diameter pvc pipe,two feet long?cut it in half use half at each end tapcon it with the top, at the top of the inlet hole and the outlet four inches or so higher than that.Old culvert pipe.Dead propane cylinder.If you use metal it may decay faster but should give you five years to save up.Good Luck with any rig.You need a new tank.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Ok, I know the tank needs replacing, but it’s not going to hurt by rigging it to last a little longer since the entire system will need to be replaced anyway. I am not doing any more damage by not replacing it now.So, the 12″ PVC sounds like the best idea yet.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)”There is nothing so permanent then something so temporary.”The plumber I served my apprenticeship under would say that when we were called in to make the correct repair after a handyman or homeowner only did a temporary fix that would last sometimes for years.Be honest, it will never get fixed until the system completely craps out.10-23-08, 7:18am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:yonson (SC)”it will never get fixed until the system completely craps out”Pun intended?
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I also plan on constructing new concrete lids. Is this ok to do with quickrete conrete mix and rebar? I want to make sure that there is no danger of the lids breaking, which there is with the current lids.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:hi (TX)Hello,You may still be helped.The exit T and the baffle are placed to keep solids and greases out of the leach field which will plug the pores and render the leach field inoperative and result in effluent finding its way to the surface.You have a two chamber tank that has made itself a one chamber tank with the collapse of the baffle wall.This is not an infrequent finding during septic inspections done properly.Your best (most effective and cost effective)fix is to place a PVC Tee on the outlet to the box.This keeps the floating solids out of the field.It needs to be fit solidly and leak free to be effective and long lasting.If possible also place an inlet T to force “incoming” waste to go to the bottom rather than float across to the exit of the tank.If the repair exposes the exit of the tank you may also want to include an effluent filter to trap solids before they go to the field. This is a newer design that further reduces material that can plug up the leach field.Be careful with the tanks as they can collapse and may not have enough oxygen to support life inside!Safety is Most important!Here is a article discussing your exact question. The website contains a “wealth” of septic info.Here is another (scroll about 3/4 way down and see the part about the baffle deterioration and repair.)
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)I mentioned in my first post that using tees is not feasible at the outlet due to there being two clay outlet pipes. I guess I could try to use two tees, but how would I secure them to the clay pipes?
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:LemonPlumber (FL)You might be better off wrapping the old ones,with rewire making the joint on top then adding a 2″ layer of topping mix.Good Luck.Unless you intend to pour the lid’s six or more inches thick,smaller stone or sand type should be used.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:PBwrencher (WI)Don’t you have plumbing codes in Florida where the concrete tank and top must be made of Monolithic Concrete and must have the strength of 2000lbs per sq inch or more so it does not cave in on a poor sole years from now:10-25-08, 8:20am- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -3 years before Google started PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:redwood (CT)Things are a tad bit lax in Florida IMHO- – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – -Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:mstruttm (FL)Quickrete says it is 4000 psi.
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Re: Old Septic System Baffle Repair
Author:rca411 (OK)Can’t you just dig it up some behind the tank, then stub PVC back into the septic tank and glue on a sanitary tee for a new baffle?
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By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.

  • Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
  • A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
  • When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
  • In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
  • Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
  • Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
  • In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.

Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.

grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.

Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.

Water conservation should be practiced.

Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.

Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.

The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.

Expert Tips for Baffle Repair

Receive articles, news, and videos about Systems/ATUs sent directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Systems/ATUs+ Receive Notifications One perk of working on septic systems for more than 40 years is that the folks I’ve met and worked with are frequently willing to offer images or tales that they find interesting. In this particular instance, my colleague Kim Seipp emailed me a photo of a repair work she had completed in Colorado. Hopefully, everyone who reads this recognizes right away that this is not the appropriate method of repairing or replacing a baffle in a concrete tank.

  • These baffles must be the right length and have a space between their top and the bottom of the tank lid to allow for the exchange of gases and the ventilation of the tank.
  • Thus, sewage travels through the tank on an irregular course, providing the detention time necessary for bigger particles to be settled out before the effluent is transferred to the final treatment and dispersion section of the system.
  • A floating scum blockage is prevented by the intake baffle from clogging the inlet pipe.
  • It is necessary to maintain floating scum in the tank, which is composed of oil and soap residue, so that it can be removed when the tank is cleaned.
  • A deteriorating concrete baffle at the exit of a septic tank is seen in this photograph.
  • Due to the fact that the sanitary tee is connected to the tank’s output pipe by couplings, the person(s) who completed this project had the appropriate concept.
  • This baffle will not perform the critical job of providing a relatively clear liquid to the next component of the system since there is no effluent filter in place.
  • The concrete around the pipe may require repair, and a rubber gasket may need to be installed retroactively to guarantee that the tank stays watertight and root-free.
  • The outlet baffle should be extended to a depth of 25 percent of the operating depth in the tank to ensure proper operation.

As an example, if the tank is 60 inches deep, the baffle would need to be 15 inches longer. I’d be interested in hearing how others might go about mending a baffle in the future. Leave a comment below or send an email to kim.[email protected] with your baffle repair suggestions.

Signs Your Septic Tank Could Have A Bad Baffle That Needs To Be Replaced – Keeping It Clean: A Sanitation Blog

Your septic system may be able to function for several years without the need for repairs. Although a clogged pipe may occur from time to time, a concrete tank can survive for a lengthy period of time before difficulties begin to arise in its operation. The breakdown of the baffles in a septic tank is one of the most common problems. Here’s a look at how to detect whether your tank is suffering from this issue, as well as the repairs that may be necessary. Baffles for septic tanks have a purpose.

  1. It is the one on the inlet side that directs how water and waste flow into and out of the system when it is first installed.
  2. The outlet baffle plays a crucial function since a blocked drainfield may be very expensive to fix, thus it is necessary to have one installed.
  3. Solids and fat layer are left behind to be pushed out at a later time.
  4. When this occurs, solids or fats can enter the distribution box and drainfield.
  5. The obstruction produced by a faulty baffle may result in waste backing up into your home or your drains becoming clogged.
  6. Regular tank pumping allows the septic service to inspect the state of the baffles, which allows them to be repaired if they are in poor condition and replaced before the baffles fail completely.
  7. If you have a more recent tank, the baffle may be made of plastic.
  8. When a baffle is damaged, it must be replaced immediately.
  9. The waste must be pumped out before the contractor can begin working on the tank, which is why it is a good idea to have the baffles examined at the same time that the tank is being cleaned out.
  10. In such instance, the contractor will have to remove the clog out of the baffle and determine whether or not the baffle will need to be replaced.
  11. Contact a septic tank service in your region if you require further information.

Baffles: What are they and how do they work?

Is it possible that you don’t understand what baffles are, how they operate, and why they are so important? There are two baffles on your septic tank: one on the inlet side (where waste water from your residence enters the tank) and one on the outlet side (where waste water leaves the tank) (where the waste water goes out into your drain field). The baffles are in place to direct the flow of water in order for your system to operate correctly. The entrance baffle guides the flow of water to the bottom of your tank, preventing the water from exiting the tank too rapidly and allowing the waste to separate from the waste water for a longer period of time to occur.

  • This is extremely essential since it helps to extend the life of your drain field, which may be quite expensive to repair or replace.
  • Newer installed septic systems have baffles that are composed of PVC, which is sturdy and tends to last for an extended period of time.
  • Over time, concrete baffles erode, making them less efficient in preventing noise pollution.
  • It is possible that failing to maintain your baffles can result in the need to spend thousands of dollars on drain field repairs, expansions, or replacements.
  • It is possible, however, that the waste from your septic tank will flow into your drain field due to deterioration of the baffles.

Consequently, even if you are not experiencing any issues, you should have your septic system repaired at least once every three to five years.

Septic Systems

No. Tanks made of steel or concrete begin to deteriorate very immediately. As long as it is not subjected to physical abuse, polymer will endure the longest and will be of use to you for many years. Concrete is permeable and susceptible to cracking. A key contributor to the degradation of both concrete and metal tanks is the presence of salts and chemicals in the water supply. It is never suggested to construct a structure on top of a septic tank. In order to check and maintain the tank, access to the tank is required Pumping would need the removal of everything that had been erected on top of the tank.

  1. The vapors that escape in this circumstance are extremely hazardous to human health and have the potential to be explosive, inflicting damage to your home’s foundation and other structures.
  2. The ability to check and maintain your tank requires access to the inlet and outflow ports of your tank.
  3. Both standing wastewater where the leach field should be and strange scents in your backyard, which might both signal a problem, can be detected by performing a visual assessment of your backyard.
  4. The clarity of the effluent water that exits the outlet baffle is the most significant thing to look for in this area.
  5. Checking the temperature and pH level of the tank might provide you with more information.
  6. The pH of the solution must be within acceptable limits, and this may be measured within the exit baffle.
  7. Some factors can harm the beneficial bacteria that your tank relies on to decompose human waste.

Items that are not biodegradable are also non-septic products.

TCEQ and municipal regulations demand that the system be installed in specified places and spray a specific amount of square footage.

It is possible that adding spray heads or shifting spray heads will not be practicable in order to fulfill those specifications.

Don’t get too worked up over it!

To mute the buzzer, use the silent button on your keyboard.

If the light continues to illuminate or if the buzzer continues to sound, contact your maintenance provider as soon as you can.

Despite the fact that plumbers and septic repair providers appear to deal with the same problems, the two industries are not the same at all.

access to the septic tank for cleaning Try inspecting the system’s “CleanOut,” a short pvc pipe with detachable cap that extends out of the ground between your house and the tank. If you are suffering backup, this is something to look at.

  • If there is no backlog in the cleanout, a plumber should be contacted. You should contact a professional when your tank is overflowing or when you can’t find the cleanout valve.

The presence of hydrogen sulfide gas in the concrete septic tank is a common cause of tank degradation. The majority of deterioration difficulties are related with excessive waste disposal usage, as decaying food produces hydrogen sulfide, which causes the deterioration. Additionally, backwash from some water softeners into a septic tank that is employing salt for water treatment might result in the production of hydrogen sulfide. Given that it is a gas, the degradation takes place above the water line within the tank.

Septic tanks in the region are mostly composed of concrete, however there are a few that are fiberglass or plastic in construction as well.

Preventive Maintenance: Baffle Replacement Becomes Legitimate…

This intake baffle will be unsuccessful at directing flow downward for efficient settling because it will not direct flow downward.

Interested in Onsite Systems?

Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plus, there are Onsite Systems. Receive Notifications In the course of an inspection of a septic tank, how can I determine when the baffles need to be replaced? ANSWER: Many talks with service providers concerning concrete tank corrosion issues have taken place over the years, including baffle degradation – which is often focused on the outlet baffle – and baffle replacement. The baffles in earlier tanks were frequently made of cast-in-place concrete.

These baffles and screens are required by a number of states and municipal governments for new construction.

In order to understand the function of the baffles, which I discussed in this column for a prior discussion on corrosion, it is vital to recall what they are for.

In addition, it prevents the floating scum layer from clogging the input pipe with debris.


The exit baffle prevents floating scum or debris from entering the drainfield and guarantees that the effluent that is discharged to the next component of the system comes from the tank’s clean effluent zone, which is important for water quality. In today’s world, we improve debris removal by utilizing effluent screens to prevent big floating particles from entering the downstream flow. My response to the question is as follows: If the baffle is degrading and the degradation is preventing the baffle from performing its intended function, the baffle should be changed immediately.

  1. In this column, I will provide a suggestion for the second half, which is easier than convincing the homeowner that they need expensive repair done on their system, which is more difficult.
  2. As previously stated, many licensing agencies need effluent screens when a tank is rebuilt or repaired, as noted above.
  3. Salespeople should have little trouble convincing homeowners that an effluent screen is a type of insurance policy that would cover the more expensive components of their system.
  4. Thanks to Jeff and Kim Seipp of High Plains Sanitation in Colorado for providing the photo of the outlet baffle that was used in this article.

Our ongoing debate concerning tank conditions and the causes of corrosion has been quite fruitful. Other photos, including one from Arizona, were taken as part of a point-of-sale real estate inspection and have been shared with us.


One image depicts a badly built inlet baffle, which, in my view, will not perform its intended role of guiding flow downhill or preventing scum from filling the baffle. Another shot depicts a poorly designed outlet baffle. There are definitely some additional issues with this tank as well; given there appears to be degradation in the cover as well as signs that rebar is beginning to show through, it is possible that the entire tank may need to be replaced at some point. The baffle, at the absolute least, needs to be upgraded or replaced.

There is another issue that is apparent here: the piping is located far enough into the tank that there is not much clean space between the baffle wall and the piping between the baffle wall and the piping.

One crucial point to remember is to proceed with caution when removing the remaining concrete baffle to avoid damaging the tank wall.

This instance highlights the need of having an in-depth discussion with the homeowner about the problem.

Pumpers Pay Special Attention to Inlet & Outlet Baffles Upon…

Receive articles, stories, and videos about trucks delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Trucks+ Receive Notifications I’m not sure what the function of a septic tank baffle is. In response to a recent inspection report indicating that the baffles need to be fixed or replaced, this is a question that many homeowners have asked themselves. As a result, it is a reasonable query, given that your clients are aware that they would be required to spend money. Before responding to the question directly, it is necessary to provide a quick description of the interior of their tank.

Upon evaluating the tank, if any of these three layers are missing, the service provider is on a quest to identify what is causing the problem.

One or both of the septic tank baffles have been removed or are somehow damaged.

The intake baffle has two purposes: it directs flow from the house sewer downward into the tank, allowing for a longer detention period for the sewage to allow for the settling of particles, and it prevents the floating scum layer from clogging the pipe leading into the tank.

These days, we may improve the first function by utilizing effluent filters to prevent big floating particles or debris from entering downstream into the water supply.


Baffles are generally classified into two categories: plastic sanitary tees and wall baffles. There are built-in baffles in the walls that often provide extra space for the particles transported by the home sewage to pass into the tank. Having said that, due to the nature of their design, sanitary tees are less prone to experience clogging issues. If the baffles are fitted correctly, any kind will function adequately. However, if the tank is not properly installed, baffles can quickly degrade and cease to function as they should.

  • Retrofitting a sanitary tee is typically used to repair wall-attached baffles when they get damaged or worn out over time.
  • These days, it’s scarcely necessary to say it because experts are well-versed on the distinction.
  • Many prefabricated septic tanks now have a sanitary tee that has already been fitted.
  • When connecting a wall baffle, be sure that the connection does not corrode.
  • Baffles manufactured of PVC sanitary tees must be correctly bonded and fastened to the inlet and outlet pipework in order to function effectively.
  • Often, when a wall baffle is replaced with a sanitary tee, the patching around the hole is inadequate, enabling roots or surface water to enter the tank.
  • If there is an effluent screen, it should be inspected to determine if it needs cleaning.


Examine the input pipe and the wall baffle during a routine inspection to ensure there is sufficient free space to enable free passage of water and sediments into the tank. There should be 2 to 4 inches of room between each item. Typically, this is caused by improper installation, where the pipe was forced past the inside wall of the tank, hence lowering the amount of room available for solids to flow through. Consequently, toilet paper can accumulate in the pipe, clogging it and causing backups into the home.

An additional consideration at the intake is the type of pipe that was utilized for the household sewer line.

This type of pipe can react with soap products, creating corrosion and clogging the pipe, as well as generating flow difficulties in the pipeline.

Similarly, the outlet baffle should be checked to ensure that it has enough room. This is less important since the outlet baffle should extend to a depth that is equal to 40 percent of the working depth of the tank, sucking clear liquid out of the tank, making it less vital.


It is necessary to inspect the pipe leading into and out of the tank to see whether it is straight in and out. If the pipe is “cocked” at an angle after installation as a result of settling, it will need to be repaired. This scenario can result in pipe obstructions and backups, as well as contribute to venting and corrosion issues in the water system.

Septic Repair Services in CT

When there is no access to a public sewer system, septic systems are one of the most trouble-free sewage treatment options accessible. The typical lifespan of these plants is roughly 30 years if they are properly cared for. However, they will ultimately require repair and/or replacement due to wear and tear.

Lid Replacement

Some tanks are equipped with a tee fitting, which requires that a cap be put on the top of the tee in order to keep gases contained within the container. The scent of rotten eggs might be detected within the house if the cap comes off or is removed. The replacement of this cap almost always prevents this from occurring.

Inlet Cap Replacement

It is necessary to connect both the line coming from the home and the line going to the leaching system to the tank using what is known as a “Tee Fitting.” Tees composed of clay pipe, concrete, or Orangeburg pipe were used in the construction of older forms of tees. All of these, over time, grow brittle and break away from one another. Newer plasticpipe fittings can still be broken off, but they do not suffer from the same problems as older plasticpipe fittings, such as degradation and becoming brittle.

This job is done from both the outside and the interior of the tank, depending on the situation.

The output tee is the final and most significant barrier in the process of keeping solids contained within the tank.

Inlet Baffle / Outlet Baffle Replacement

Tank walls that have deteriorated and need to be resurfaced are likewise the result of degradation. Making sure they’re smooth and robust is essential. If the deteriorating process is allowed to continue for an extended period of time, the structural integrity of the tank is jeopardized.

Tank Top Repair

The tank top itself is perhaps the most often repaired component. When tanks get older, the degradation process becomes more visible on the tank top. Due to the fact that the damage is occuring on the interior of the tank, you may not be able to notice it immediately. The tank’s top was roughly 4 inches thick when it was first constructed. As time progresses, the process becomes more rapid, and safety becomes a big worry. The tank can give way and collapse at any time if it does not have the strength to support it.

We aim to catch each tank top before it reaches the stage where it becomes a safety hazard and while repair is still an option because of the obvious safety considerations involved.

It is necessary to replace the tank once it has been destroyed. It is necessary to remove the complete tank top in order for us to fix it. We can then install new standard tank lids or upgrade to tank risers if the tank top is beyond repair.

Complete replacement

When a system is old or has been badly maintained over the years, or when a system has been severely damaged beyond repair. The only option to proceed is to totally replace the septic tank and/or leach field, which is an expensive proposition. This is by far the most expensive sort of repair. It can only be done if there is adequate room on the land to accommodate it (Reserve Area). In order to construct a new installation, county permissions must be secured, and landscaping is sometimes damaged in the process.

It is required to use heavy machinery.

This sort of repair is something that our firm can also perform.

Root Removal

In the event that roots are permitted to penetrate the septic tank or any of the system components, they clog or block pipes, form a root mat inside the tank, or in the most extreme circumstances, cause the system to collapse completely. If chemical treatment is not an option in the case of a root invasion within the tank, the roots must be manually removed. In order to accomplish the task, multiple personnel and a significant amount of time will be required. If chemical treatment is not an option in the case of a root invasion within the tank, the roots must be manually removed.

When roots infiltrate a crossover pipe or a tight line pipe, we recommend that the whole pipe be replaced rather than chasing the problem around and finally replacing the pipe.

Roots that have penetrated the actual leach lines and colonized the soil or rock surrounding the pipe can be difficult to treat or remove, and there is nothing that can be done to prevent this.

Unfortunately, it is possible that additional leach lines may need to be installed.

Concrete Septic Tank Baffle – RIDGID Forum

Concerning the Concrete Septic Tank Baffle Your septic technician may be able to assist you in determining who made the tank and obtaining an appropriate baffle from them. If I were in your situation, I would consider casting my own baffle by laying a sheet of plastic on the ground or a plywood or concrete floor and creating a wood form, cutting some rebar, and creating an extended bar grid to allow for lifting loops throught a section of the tank’s interior. As far as replacing baffels goes, I have never done it, (I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the baffels in my concrete were made of a special cement that was extra strong in cement content, let it set for a week or two, and then put it in place, one may need to check for tapers on the side, and so on, but many of the tanks and other smaller precast concrete were made by smaller concrete companies as a way to do something during the off season or to use If casting it and setting it in after the fact would be a difficulty, access would appear to be a potential issue, photos would be helpfull in understanding precisely what you’re working with and how it’s constructed, Pushing sticks/blocks are used.

Fingers should be saved.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NOTE TO THE PUBLIC: Due to recent budget cuts, rising power, gas, and oil prices, as well as the present status of the economy, a public notice is being issued. The light at the end of the tunnel has been extinguished for the time being.

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