What Side Is The Cap On A Septic Tank?

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A septic tank cap, also called a lid or access hatch, is normally located on the top of the tank near the center. Most caps are square in shape and are approximately 16 inches across. This cap acts as an access point to the interior of the tank for cleaning and other maintenance.

Where is the cap on my septic tank?

A septic tank cap, also called a lid or access hatch, is normally located on the top of the tank near the center. Most caps are square in shape and are approximately 16 inches across. This cap acts as an access point to the interior of the tank for cleaning and other maintenance.

What does the cap on a septic tank look like?

Septic tank lids are typically green or black plastic; sometimes they are made of concrete. It’s not always easy to find the lid, though, as unkempt grass, dirt, or debris can conceal the septic tank lid.

Are there two lids on a septic tank?

A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

How far down is a septic cap?

The lid will generally be within one meter (approximately three feet) of the ground surface, but sometimes can be found much deeper. Always look for gas, electrical, water and utility lines before digging.

How do I know my septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

Your Drains Are Taking Forever.

Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
You Hear Gurgling Water.

You Have A Sewage Backup.
How often should you empty your septic tank?

Can a septic tank never be pumped?

What Are the Consequences of Not Pumping Your Tank? If the tank is not pumped, the solids will build up in the tank and the holding capacity of the tank will be diminished. Eventually, the solids will reach the pipe that feeds into the drain field, causing a clog. Waste water backing up into the house.

How do septic tanks look?

Septic tanks are typically rectangular in shape and measure approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter.

Do old septic tanks have lids?

If your septic tank was installed after 1975, it will probably have two polyethylene or fiberglass lids centered at opposite sides of the perimeter. Older tanks will typically have a 24-inch concrete lid right in the center of the tank. Excavate in those locations to reveal the lids.

Why do septic tanks have two covers?

In most cases there are two lids to access your septic tank. Both of which are important to have open when pumping out your septic tank. An outdoor septic smell can be harder to pin point. Ensure that all accesses to the septic system are sealed.

Why do septic tanks have two compartments?

Septic tanks may have one or two compartments. Two-compartment tanks do a better job of set- tling solids and are required for new systems. Tees or baffles are provided at the tank’s inlet and outlet pipes. The inlet tee slows the incom- ing wastes and reduces disturbance of the settled sludge.

How deep are drain fields buried?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.

Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

It should be possible to uncover the lid or lids by digging with a spade in specific spots, depending on when year the tank was constructed.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Septic tank lid opening is best left to the pros after you’ve discovered where it may be found. Several lifting tools are required to remove concrete septic tank lids, which are very heavy in some cases. An open tank may release toxic vapors into the atmosphere. Anyone roaming about on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be seriously injured or perhaps killed. In addition to the noxious vapors, falling into an open tank can be lethal.

How to Locate the Cap to a Septic Tank

In most cases, a septic tank cap, also known as a lid or an access hatch, is positioned towards the middle of the tank on the tank’s top. The majority of caps have a square form and are roughly 16 inches in diameter. This cap serves as an entry point to the tank’s interior, allowing for cleaning and other maintenance to be performed. The presence of septic tank gases and a lack of air might result in fast asphyxia if someone enters the tank. Additionally, in some circumstances, locating this limit might be a frustrating experience.

Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images is the source of this image.

Step 1

Locate the main drain line that originates from the toilets in your home by entering the crawl area or basement of your home. Figure out where the drain leaves the home and in which direction it is traveling. – You may need to take measurements to verify that you can locate the drain’s exact placement from the outside of the property. Mark the placement of the drain line on the exterior of the home with a marker. Typically, this drain line will empty into the septic tank and will run directly from the home to the septic tank in most circumstances.

Step 2

Check the construction codes in the region. Most municipalities mandate that the septic tank be installed at least 10 feet away from the house’s foundation. Most contractors will place the tank as near to the house as feasible in order to make the installation as simple as possible. The closer the tank is to the home, the shallower the soil in which it will be buried will be. To locate the drain line, start measuring 12 to 14 feet from the foundation and follow it directly along the suspected course of the drain line.

Double-check your measurements and angles to ensure that you have achieved the desired precision.

Step 3

At the site of your mark, dig down to a depth of no more than two feet, but no deeper. Before you reach this level, you should strike the septic tank’s apex at the very top. It is necessary to refill the hole and drill another hole a little further out along the suspected drain line’s course if this is not the case.

You should dig closer to the home if you are having difficulties identifying the septic tank. This will allow you to account for contractors that do not adhere to local codes while locating septic tanks.

Step 4

Once you’ve discovered the septic tank, you can widen the hole to expose more of the tank’s inside. Continue digging until you come across a seam in the tank lid, at which point you should remove enough soil to reveal the seam in its entirety. The tank cap will be made of this material. The cap on the majority of units is flush with the tank’s surface and may have two wire handles. Before opening the hatch, make sure that any dirt and other debris has been removed from the surrounding area to avoid any dirt or other material from entering the tank.

Tip

The cap on your tank might be quite hefty, depending on the model and type of tank you have. In other cases, the cap can be so heavy that it will take the assistance of several people to remove it.

How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid

Previous PostNext PostWhether you realize it or not, it is critical that you be aware of the position of your septic tank lid and the septic tank itself. Despite the fact that septic tanks are fairly huge, they can be difficult to identify, particularly if they have not been properly maintained over time. Continue reading to find out how to locate your septic tank lid.

Why It’s Good to Know Where to Find Your Septic Tank Lid

Knowing the location of your septic tank is a fantastic approach to spot septic tank problems as soon as they occur. Consider the following scenario: If you saw water near your septic tank lid, you would know right away that you could have a problem with your system being overloaded with waste. Furthermore, by understanding where your septic tank is located, you may avoid parking cars on top of it, which might cause the tank to collapse and create flooding. You’ll also be able to point service personnel in the right direction for septic tank services, which will eventually save them time and money while also saving you money.

How to Find Your Septic Tank Opening

Knowing how critical it is to know where your septic tank lid is located, it’s time to go out and find one for yourself. Keep an eye out for a circular lid that is roughly two feet in diameter during your quest. Septic tank lids are normally constructed of green or black plastic, however they can occasionally be made of concrete. It is not always simple to locate the septic tank lid, however, because untidy vegetation, mud, or debris might obscure the lid’s location. If you live in a snowy climate, seek for a spot of lawn where the snow melts more quickly than it does anywhere else on the property.

How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid as a New Homeowner

During the process of purchasing your house, you should have been provided with a map of your property that showed the location of your septic tank. This is normally included as a part of your home inspection service package. All you have to do from there is compare the diagram to your land, find the septic tank location, and potentially dig around it to check whether the lid has been hidden by vegetation or other obstructions.

People have been known to place an object such as a huge rock on top of the septic lid, so be sure to look beneath landscaping stones as well.

How to Find Your Septic Tank Lid as an Existing Homeowner

Still having trouble locating your septic tank lid? There’s a significant probability it’ll end up in the ground. The pipes coming from your basement should be followed, as they will take you in the direction of your septic system, which is what we propose. Then, once you’ve determined the correct direction, check for any high or low points in the yard that might reveal the location of your septic tank. You can find the lid of your septic tank by probing the ground with a metal probe every few feet with the probe.

Because most lids have a metal handle or fastener on them to hold the lid closed, you may also use a metal detector to find them.

The majority of lids are buried up to a foot deep, but some lids might be buried as deep as four feet in extreme cases!

How to Maintain Your Septic Tank Lid

Following the discovery of your septic tank lid, keep it in good condition to avoid damage and ensure simple access for future septic tank maintenance, such as pumping your septic tank every three- to five-year period. Here are some pointers for keeping your septic tank lid in good working order:

Keeping the grass around the septic tank lid regularly mowed is important. Remove any dirt or debris that may have accumulated on your septic tank lid

Mark the area to ensure that no one parks or constructs structures there. It is possible to do this using a flag, garden décor, or ornamental pebbles.

Professional Septic Tank Services

Is it difficult to find trustworthy septic tank services or septic tank installation? If you are looking for septic tank installation, inspection, and cleaning services, check with your local Mr. Rooter ® Plumbing franchise. Mr. Rooter charges a set amount up front, with no overtime fees or additional expenses. To get started, call us at (855) 982-2028 or fill out our online estimate request form. Is the lid of your septic tank obscured by grass? Inquire with The Grounds Guys about routine lawn care and upkeep.

Rooter, is a member of Neighborly’s network of dependable home service experts, which includes Mr.

By hiring The Grounds Guys to provide trustworthy grass mowing and landscape care services, you can be assured that your septic tank lid will always be simple to locate.

How to Find Your Septic Tank

Over time, all septic tanks become clogged with sediments and must be pumped out in order to continue functioning properly. Septic tank lids are frequently located at ground level. The majority of the time, they have been buried anywhere between four inches and four feet underground. In the event that you have recently purchased a property and are unsure as to where your septic tank is located, this article will give instructions on how to identify your septic tank.

Noteworthy: While every property is unique, septic tanks are usually typically huge and difficult to build. As a result, and due to the fact that it requires constant pumping, you’re very certain to discover it in a location that can be reached by a huge truck while looking for it.

5 Ways to Find Your Septic Tank

1. Check with the municipal records. The most straightforward method of locating your septic tank is to review the building plans for your home that were approved by the local government. You should have received an application from the business that installed the septic tank, which should contain schematics and specifications that will help you to locate the precise location where the septic tank was installed. 2. Look for highs and lows in your data. The majority of septic tanks are constructed in such a way that they are barely noticeable.

3.
Almost usually, your septic tank will be constructed near where the main sewage line exits your property.
Septic tanks are typically positioned between ten and twenty-five feet away from a home’s foundation.

When you do, that’s when your septic tank comes into play!
Look for the Lid.
You will most likely find two polyethylene or fiberglass covers positioned on opposing sides of the perimeter of your septic tank if it was built after 1975 and installed after 1975.

Those areas should be excavated in order to disclose the lids.

Get in touch with the pros.

Lifting concrete lids will necessitate the use of specialized equipment.

A fall into an unprotected septic tank has the potential to be lethal.

Produce your own diagram of your yard, which you may file away with your other important house paperwork.

That’s all there is to it!

To book a plumbing service in Bastrop County, please contact us now!

3 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES

1. Check with the local government. To locate your septic tank, it is most likely the most straightforward method of looking through the building blueprints for your home that were prepared by the town. This application, which should include schematics and dimensions that will assist you to locate the precise location where the septic tank was built, should have been filed by the business that installed the septic tank in question. Find the highs and lows of your experience. In order to be unobtrusive, the majority of septic tanks are placed in a discreet manner.

Follow the rules.

Be a good sport.
Track down and mark the location of the 4-inch sewer that exits the crawl space or basement, and the same location outside the house.
Every few feet, insert a tiny metal probe into the earth, continuing until you reach polyethylene, fiberglass, or flat concrete.

The Lid may be found in Step 4.
You will most likely find two polyethylene or fiberglass covers positioned on opposing sides of the perimeter of your septic tank if it was built after 1975 and is older than that.
In order to disclose the lids, you must excavate in specific areas.

Get in touch with the professionals.
Using special lifting gear to lift heavy concrete lids will be necessary.
It is possible to die after falling into an open septic tank.

Produce your own diagram of your yard, which you can file away with your other important house documentation.

That’s it! You’re finished. The good news is that you now have five alternatives for locating your septic tank, making it easier than ever to discover your tank. Get in touch with us now to book a plumbing service in Bastrop County!

COMMON PROBLEMS — JT’s SEPTIC

You should examine the sewer cleanout on the exterior of the home if you are hearing gurgling and all of the house fixtures are clogged. This is often a black 3-4 in color “inch ABS pipe with a threaded cap is available. Remove the cap (WARNING: BE CAREFUL! (WARNING: IT MAY CONTAIN SOME PRESSURE!) : Assuming the sewage line is completely dry, you will have a clog inside the home plumbing, directly in front of the cleanout valve. Make a phone call to a plumber and have them rooter the line. Sewer line cameras are available from several rooter/plumbing businesses.

You have two options at this point: call your preferred septic provider or pull up the tank lids yourself and check the water level and solids content in the tank yourself.

Most tanks erected after January 2001 include a filter that has to be cleaned at least once a year (we clean filters—please call us).
We’ll even notify you once a year when it’s time to clean your filters!).
It’s likely that you have a blockage in your sewage system.

GURGLES

You should examine the sewer cleanout on the exterior of the home if you hear gurgling and all of your house fixtures are clogged up. Most of the time, this is a black 3 or 4 “The pipe is made of ABS and has a threaded end cap. Removing the cap (WARNING: BE CAREFUL! IS IT POSSIBLE THAT IT WILL CONTAIN PRESSURE?) : Assuming the sewage line is completely dry, you will have a clog within the home plumbing, directly in front of the cleanout. In order to have the line rooter, contact a plumber. sewer line cameras are available from some rooter/plumbing businesses.

You have two options at this point: call your preferred septic provider or dig up the tank lids yourself and examine the water level and solids content within the tank yourself.

The vast majority of tanks erected after January 2001 feature a filter that has to be cleaned at least once every year (we clean filters— To schedule a filter cleaning, please contact us right away.

A blockage in the sewage pipe is most likely the source of your problem. We can assist you if your septic tank is backing up. Contact us now!

ODORS

If you are experiencing unpleasant odors within your home, such as rotten eggs, it is likely that a trap or vent inside your home is not venting correctly. Call your plumber right away since these gases are harmful to both people and animals!

ODORS OUTSIDE IN THE YARD

At times, the smells emanating from the roof vents will seep into the yard due to meteorological conditions. Make use of a plumber to elevate the roof vents and/or to place a charcoal filter in the vents, as needed. It’s important to remember that your septic tank is vented via the roof.

SURFACING IN THE YARD

Immediately contact your septic service provider if you notice effluent surfacing in your yard. This indicates that your leach line has failed and requires immediate treatment.

HEAVY SOLIDS- OVERDUE FOR PUMPING

Contrary to common perception, you DO need to have your septic tank pumped on a regular basis. Pumping maintenance should be performed on a regular basis, otherwise your system will get overwhelmed with solid waste and eventually cause damage to your leach lines. DON’T MAKE THIS HAPPEN TO YOU! This is an extreme example of a tank that is overflowing. There is sewage flowing from the tank access holes and into the yard!

grease build up in sewer pipes

Fats and grease should never be flushed down the toilet or sink. They have the potential to harden the lines and cause failure; they have the potential to generate an excessive buildup of the floating scum layer in the septic tank; and they have the potential to go into the disposal regions and adjacent soils and completely block the system off. A shattered lid can pose a serious threat to both animals and children. It is conceivable that they will fall through the cracked or broken lids and will not be noticed until it is too late to save themselves.

crushed or settled pipe

This is the second most prevalent problem we notice in septic systems that are less than 10 years old. In addition to blocking flow, loose fill soil surrounding the tank is causing a backup into the house since it is pulling the pipe with it as it settles. We have even observed instances when contractors installing new systems do not correctly pack the fill earth below the pipe, resulting in pipe settlement on systems that have not been utilized or have only been used for a short length of time (see below for an example).

SEWER OUTLET PROGRESSION

When it comes to modern septic systems, this is the most typical issue we encounter. Take note of the fact that the unsupported outlet pipe is being driven down by settling dirt. Watch as the water level in the tank rises, forcing the flow of water in the inflow sewage line to slow. This will eventually result in a clog in the inflow sewer line at some point. The solids flowing down from the house will not be able to enter the tank correctly because of the high water level.

examples of settled sewer pipes:

Among modern septic systems, this is the most often seen issue. Take note of how the sinking dirt is pushing the unsupported outflow pipe down. Observe the water level in the tank rise and the water in the intake sewer line slow down as a result of this.

An blockage at the sewage pipe entrance will ultimately result as a result of this. The solids flowing down from the house will not be able to enter the tank adequately due to the high water level.

settled inlet sewer pipe on unused system:

Even if the septic system has not been utilized in some time, it is conceivable that problems will be discovered during the inspection process. Pipes might settle on unoccupied ground and in yards as a result of faulty installation and/or automobiles and/or ATVs running over the pipes without realizing they are there. It may be beneficial to all parties to have a skilled inspector take a look at the system and diagnose any concerns, even though the County does not require an examination on an underused system before transferring ownership.

Roots growing in and around the septic tank:

In addition to disrupting the system by clogging or destroying drainage and distribution lines, tree roots can also enter the tank, causing it to leak. Foul odors, poor drainage, and patches of vegetation in the leach field are just a few of the signs that you may have a root problem.

ERODED BAFFLES

Solids are kept in the septic tank and away from the disposal area with the use of concrete baffles. Using baffles to reduce agitation of wastewater entering the septic tank and prevent particles from escaping the tank and entering the drainfield, baffles can assist avoid drainfield damage and extend the life of the drainfield. If the baffles are broken, missing, or have never been placed, the drainfield’s life expectancy will be reduced significantly. Baffle repair normally entails the placement of a plastic tee at the end of the sewer pipes to prevent them from clogging.

orangeburg sewer pipes

Orangeburg pipe was made in Orangeburg, New York, from 1860 to 1970, and was utilized to plumb numerous septic and wastewater systems throughout Yavapai County during that time period. Orangeburg pipe is produced from rolled tar paper (wood pulp that has been sealed with hot pitch) and was considered a low-cost alternative to metal, particularly after World War II, because of its flexibility and durability. In fact, the pipe itself is so soft that professionals might cut it with a knife during the installation process!

Orangeburg, on the other hand, is known for degrading over time (it has a 50-year lifespan at the most) and deforming when subjected to pressure.

If the septic system is approved, Orangeburg will normally be stated on the permits as the material for the inlet and/or outflow pipe material, respectively.

What you should expect when your septic tank needs pumping

The following are general recommendations: It is advised that you pump your septic tank every two to three years. The frequency with which you pump is determined by the volume of water you utilize. Generally speaking, the more individuals that use your septic system, the greater the increase in water flow.

As a result, your septic tank will fill up more quickly, necessitating more regular pumping. It is likely that the septic tank will need to be pumped more frequently than every two to three years. Learn about the operation of your septic tank.

Choosing a certified pumper

We recommend that you identify your septic tank before contacting a pumping company. Here is a list of questions you should ask the pumper about their services that we recommend you ask:

What is the approximate cost of the pump-out
And Will additional gallons be charged if the septic tank has a capacity more than 1,000 gallons? Is it included in this price the expense of excavating to expose the septic tank lid(s)
If not, do you charge by the foot or by the meter? How much do you charge to dig you out if you don’t have one

Is there a charge for dumping costs included? Was it determined that this fee includes a visual check of the septic tank’s entrance and exit baffles? Do you charge an additional fee for cleaning the filter baffle? If a tank has not been properly maintained, is there an additional price for the additional water and time necessary to pump it out? (for example, pumped on a regular basis)
Please specify the distance and elevation to where the Pumper’s vehicle will be stationed if you have a long distance to pump or if you will be pumping up a steep hill (for example, in your driveway or in the yard). The Pumper will decide whether or not the vehicle is capable of providing this sort of service. Is pumping the pump tank a frequent component of your routine maintenance? What is the cost of providing this service? It is recommended that a pump tank be pumped in addition to the septic tank, cleaned with water, and then dried with a blow dryer. If the pump tank is extremely full, you may be subject to an additional price.

Locating the septic tank

Once you’ve decided on a Pumper, you’ll need to locate the septic tank on your property. Most Pumpers will charge you for the time it takes to locate the tank and open the septic tank lid (s). You can perform the necessary work to expose the septic tank lid(s) prior to the arrival of the Pumper. In order to make septic tank pumping and inspection trips easier and less time-consuming, the Ohio Department of Public Health advises that you install “risers.” With locking gas tight lids linked to both the tank and the riser and access raised to the surface, there is no digging required every time the septic tank needs to be pumped.

The majority of septic system pumpers will be able to do this service for you.
Both compartments must be examined and pumped in order to meet the requirements.
The location of your septic tank will be straightforward if you have an as-built (a map of your septic system) for your system.

The following talents will be required by you or your Pumper if an as-built is not available: investigation

If there is a crawl space, you may be able to locate the tank by determining where the plumbing exits the foundation wall and then using a probing bar to locate it. If you have a fiberglass or polyethylene tank, a probe bar is not suggested unless extreme caution is exercised when using the probe bar. Probing will only be effective if the tank is not more than 1 to 2 feet below the surface of the ground
If there is no crawl space available, you may occasionally discover the tank by looking for the plumbing vents in the roof. A person who is walking behind the home and coming from a restroom can find themselves at the exit point of the sewage line that connects to the septic tank

Using an electronic detecting equipment may be essential if none of the above mentioned approaches prove successful. Some rental services contain a transmitter that may be flushed down the toilet and is detected by a receiving unit, which can be found in some rental services. In certain cases, drainfield location is the specialty of septic system contractors. See a list of septic system installers who are certified. As long as the tank is exposed, sketch a map depicting the location of the septic tank lid(s) in relation to the home and make a copy of the map for your records.

Pumping the septic tank

Before the Pumper begins the process of pumping out the tank, you may request that he measure the thickness of the scum and sludge layer layers on the inside of the tank. Using this method, you can determine the pace at which the particles collect in the tank, which will assist you in determining when it is necessary to have the septic tank pumped again. Pumping frequency will be in the range of 2 to 3 years for the vast majority of families. It doesn’t matter how often you pump your septic system; frequent inspections will provide you peace of mind that everything is in working order inside those tanks.

Concerning the inspection of your septic system. The septic tank Pumper should present you with a receipt that details the services that were done to your tank. This receipt should contain the following information:

The company’s name, address, and phone number

Pumper’s certification number
Number of gallons that were pumped in an approximate manner the number of compartments that have been pumped In good working order, the tank baffles In-tact condition of the septic tank
Provide specifics on any work performed on baffles or access lids. This information should be included on the pump receipt if the scum and sludge layers were measured. Any work done on the septic tank or pump tank should be documented. Any additional service work that is completed

Tank Types Express Septic Service

Septic tanks should be cleaned every 3 to 5 years, depending on the size of the household and how much water is used. When the septic tank is pump out on a regular basis, it will help to reduce the buildup of scum and sludge layers in the tank. Ideally, the scum layer should not be more than 24 inches thick. If the material is deeper than 24 inches, it will flow down the outflow pipe and into the drainfield, plugging up the drainfield and resulting in drainfield failure. In order to get your septic tank cleaned, you must first locate the main compartment2nd compartment lid of the septic tank and remove it.

The position of a septic tank lid and the number of lids on a tank varies depending on the year it was placed and the manufacturer.

If you prefer not to find and excavate the Septic Tank lids yourself, or if you are unsure of where the lids are placed, Express Septic Service may assist you with this task.

When looking at an as-built, keep in mind that it will only show the overall placement of the sewage system components, not the actual location of the septic tanks.

Septic Diagrams:

1000 Gallon Septic Tanks: This tank design, which was in use from around 1976 to present, will have one main lid and two smaller baffle covers on either end of the tank, as seen in the diagram below.

Two Compartment

From late 1976 until the present, a septic tank layout of 1125-1200 gallons was erected. It is possible for this tank to have two main 24′′ lids or two main lids and two little baffle lids at both ends of the tank right above the inlet and output baffles, depending on the manufacturer. If there are risers to the surface of the tank, you will be searching for two lids that look like this. If the tank is not risered, you will discover concrete lids with a diameter of 2-24″, as seen in the figure below.

Holding Tank

As an alternative to the traditional on-site sewage system, it is a good option. A holding tank is not the same thing as a septic tank. A holding tank is used to retain household waste and prevents any of its contents from leaking into a drainfield, whereas a septic tank is used to enable waste water to flow into a drain field. Concrete, fiberglass, and polyethylene can all be used to construct holding tanks. Depending on the location, holding tanks can be constructed above or below ground. Holding tanks must be pumped on a regular basis, depending on the amount of water and waste water used, as well as the size of the tank.

Most holding tanks are fitted with alarms that will ring when they are almost full, signaling the need for a pump to be installed as soon as possible. In the event that a holding tank is not properly pumped, waste water will back up into the home or spill onto the ground.

Pump Tank

Some homes may be equipped with a pump tank or a pump basin in addition to a septic tank. Typically, pump tanks are located underground near the septic tank; however, depending on the year the system was established, risers to the surface may be present, allowing for simple access to examine and repair the effluent pump for maintenance or if the pump has stopped operating. Before the effluent is pumped to the drainfield region, it is collected in a pump tank or basin from a septic tank or ATU (Alternative Treatment Unit).

It is necessary to configure the control floats such that a certain volume of effluent is discharged to the drainfield.

The pump then works to bring the level of wastewater back down until it reaches that of the off float setting.

When the alarm goes off, there is enough reserve storage in the pump tank to allow the homeowner to consume only a little amount of water until the problem with the system can be resolved and the alert turned off.

Aerobic Treatment Unit (ATU)

In some cases, an alternate treatment system may be used in place of a typical septic tank and gravel trenched drainfield, such as in cases of poor soil drainage, small lot size, or environmental concerns. The majority of alternative treatment systems are comprised of a multi compartmented tank known as an Aerobic Treatment Unit, or ATU for short. The majority of ATUs are divided into three compartments: a “waste” compartment, an aeration chamber, and a clarifying chamber. The trash compartment contains solids used in the pretreatment and liquification of garbage, as well as non-waste incidental products that are flushed down the toilet and into the drain.

Clearing the effluent further improves its clarity since the leftover particles are allowed to settle in the clarifying chamber.
These components are intended to kill bacteria and pathogens before the effluent is discharged into the drainfield.
All of these models have undergone extensive testing before being certified.

These can range from gravity to pressure distribution to Glendon mounds to sand filters to drip irrigation.
For any routine operation and maintenance inspections or services, a Health Department Certified Operation and Maintenance Specialist will be required, and some manufacturers may require you to be certified by their firm in order to conduct these services.

As previously said, it is important to have these sorts of systems monitored on a regular basis and fixed as needed in order to maintain correct performance and to keep your system free of problems.

Restaurant Grease Trap

Almost every food service facility that serves food and washes dishes, including restaurants, cafés, coffee shops, delicatessens and bakeries (among others), will have an interior grease trap located near the sinks to collect grease from the sinks. They are available in sizes ranging from 20 to 50 gallons. Fatty acids, oils, and grease (FOG) are prevented from entering your drain pipe by a grease trap, which is a chambered compartment. Grease flows into the trap, enabling the grease to solidify and float to the top of the trap while weighted solids fall to the bottom of the trap, allowing the liquid to flow out via the drain pipes and into the septic tank or into the city sewage.

Grease Tank Interceptor Service

A grease interceptor is a huge tank that may be situated outside of the structure on the ground level. They can range in size from a few hundred gallons to several thousand gallons. You will need two tanks if you have an exterior tank. The first tank will be a grease trap (tank), which will hold grease until it is removed. The garbage from the restrooms will be disposed of in a tank that is specifically dedicated for this purpose; if the facility is on sewer, the waste will be disposed of in the city sewage.

In addition to a simple cleaning rooter service utilizing an electric snake, we also provide hydro-jetting, which uses high pressure water to break away hardened grease and keep the drain from backing up.

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.

The Guadalupe-Blanco River Authority has built an animated, interactive model of how a residential septic system works, which you can view here.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system.

If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

The water comes from a well. You do not have a meter on the water pipe that enters your home. Whether it’s on your water bill or your property tax statement, it says “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” You have septic systems in your neighbors’ yards.

Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

Water backing up into the drains of homes and businesses
It is especially noticeable in dry weather that the drainfield grass is bright green and spongy. The presence of standing water or muddy soil near your septic system or in your basement

A strong stench emanating from the area surrounding the septic tank and drainfield

Caring for Your Septic System

It is important not to flush any sort of wipe down the toilet, regardless of whether the box specifically states that they are “flushable.” These objects have the potential to block your home’s plumbing, as well as the pipes in the street and the important machinery at the wastewater treatment facility. The water in which personal care wipes, dental floss, paper towels, and tissues are flushed does not dissolve them rapidly – or at all – therefore they are not safe to flush down the toilet. Personal care items, cleaning supplies, and other home garbage should be disposed of appropriately, either in the trash, the recycling bin, or at your local domestic hazardous waste disposal facility.

The term “septic system” refers to an individual wastewater treatment system (conventional septic systems, innovative/alternative (I/A) systems, or cesspools) that uses the soil to treat tiny wastewater flows, which are typically generated by a single residence.
Septic systems are available in a variety of configurations today.
In a normal septic system, there are three main components: the septic tank, a distribution box, and a drainfield, which are all connected by pipes known as conveyance lines.
Primary treatment is the term used to describe this separation procedure.
Flowing from the tank into a distribution box, which distributes the wastewater uniformly into a network of drainfield trenches, is how partially treated effluent is removed from the environment.
Once in the subsurface soil, this effluent is further cleaned and filtered before being released back into the environment (secondary treatment).

Additional Resources for What is a Septic System?

According to the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection, a properly maintained septic system should be pumped out at least once every three years! Regular maintenance is the most crucial factor in ensuring that your septic system is in good working order. Pumping on a regular basis helps to keep particles from leaking into the drainfield and blocking the soil pores. While the frequency of pumping depends on the amount of consumption, the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection advises that systems be pumped at least once every three years for households without a trash disposal.

The frequency with which you pump should be determined by the amount of water that has accumulated and the amount of water that has been pumped in the past.
It is astounding how many system owners assume that if they have not experienced any difficulties with their systems, they do not need to pump out their tanks.
Solid materials sink to the bottom of the tank when your system is utilized, resulting in the formation of a sludge layer.
In most cases, correctly engineered tanks have adequate room to safely store sludge for up to three to five years at a time.
As the amount of sludge in the system rises, more solid wastes are allowed to escape into the soil absorption system (SAS).

When hiring a pumper, be certain that they are licensed by the local Board of Health, and always insist on receiving a paid receipt from the pumper that clearly outlines the terms of the transaction and the amount you paid (how many gallons were pumped out of the tank, the date, the charges, and any other pertinent results).

Keep a copy of this receipt as proof of purchase. In addition, a copy of this report is forwarded to the local Board of Health by the pumper.

Additional Resources for How often should I pump out my septic system?

Once every 3 to 5 years, have the system inspected and pumped out. If the tank becomes overburdened with sediments, the wastewater will not have enough time to settle before it overflows down the drain. After that, the extra solids will be carried to the leach field, where they will block the drain pipes and the soil. Always know where your septic system and drain field are in relation to your house and keep a detailed record of all inspections, pumpings, repairs, contract or engineering work for future reference. Keep a sketch of it on hand for when you go to the service center. The drain field should be planted above the septic system with grass or small plants (not trees or bushes) to help keep the system in place. Controlling runoff through imaginative landscaping may be an effective method of reducing water consumption. Install water-saving devices in faucets, showerheads, and toilets to limit the amount of water that drains into the septic system and into the environment. Replace any dripping faucets or leaking toilets, and only use washing machines and dishwashers when they are completely full. Avoid taking long showers. Roof drains as well as surface water from roads and slopes should be diverted away from the septic system. Maintain a safe distance between the system and sump pumps and home footing drains as well. Take any remaining hazardous substances to a hazardous waste collection station that has been approved by the local government. Use bleach, disinfectants, drain and toilet bowl cleaners sparingly and in line with the directions on the product labels. Only utilize septic system additives that have been approved for use in Massachusetts by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection (MassDEP). In Massachusetts, it has been found that the additives approved for use have no detrimental effect on the particular system or its components, or on the environment in general.

Non-biodegradables (cigarette butts, diapers, feminine items, and so on) and grease should not be disposed of down the toilet or sink. The use of non-biodegradable materials can clog the pipes, and grease can thicken and block the pipes as well. Cooking oils, fats, and grease should be stored in a can and disposed of in the garbage
Paint thinner, polyurethane, antifreeze, insecticides, certain dyes, disinfectants, water softeners, and other harsh chemicals should all be added to the system to ensure that it works properly. Septic tank malfunctions can be caused by the death of the biological component of your septic system and the contamination of groundwater. Typical home cleaners, drain cleaners, and detergents, for example, will be diluted in the tank and should not do any damage to the system
And Make use of a garbage grinder or disposal that drains into the septic tank to eliminate waste. If you do have one in your home, you should use it only in extremely limited circumstances. The addition of food wastes or other solids lowers the capacity of your system and increases the frequency with which you must pump your septic tank. If you utilize a grinder, you will have to pump the system more frequently. Trees should be planted within 30 feet of your system, and vehicles should not be parked or driven over any section of the system Tree roots may block your pipes, and heavy cars may cause your drainfield to collapse
However, you can prevent this from happening. You should not allow anybody to work on your system or pump it without first ensuring that they are licensed system specialists
Wash an excessive number of loads of clothing in your washing machine. Doing load after load deprives your septic tank of the time it needs to properly process wastes and causes the entire system to become overwhelmed with surplus wastewater. As a result, you might be overflowing your drain field without giving yourself enough time to recover from the inundation. To calculate the gallon capacity and the number of loads per day that may be safely pumped into the system, you should speak with a tank specialist. Cleaning the plumbing or septic system using chemical solvents is recommended. Microorganisms that devour toxic wastes will be killed by “miracle” chemicals that have been developed. These items have the potential to pollute groundwater as well.

Key Actions for Septic System Do’s and Don’ts

Septic systems that have been properly maintained can assist in preventing the spread of disease and other illnesses. System failures can have serious consequences.

Your failure to maintain your water system could pose a serious health hazard to your family and neighbors, degrade the environment, particularly lakes, streams and groundwater, reduce the value of your property while also being extremely expensive to repair
And put thousands of water supply users at risk if you live in a public water supply watershed and fail to maintain your system.

Keep an eye out for the following warning signals of a malfunctioning system:

Surface sewage over the drainfield (particularly after storms)
Sewage backups in the home
Lush, green vegetation over the drainfield sewage smells
Toilets or drains that are difficult to empty

If your system fails, the first thing you should do is call your local board of health, which must authorize all modifications and the majority of repairs before they can be carried out or installed. The board of health will inform you of the steps that must be taken. In the event that your system fails, call your local Board of Health immediately!