What Lines Are Supposed To Run To The Septic Tank In Nc?

What kind of septic systems are used in North Carolina?

Many different kinds of septic systems are used in North Carolina, but most of the nearly 2 million systems in use throughout the state are slight modifications of the conventional septic system. This system has a septic tank and a drainfield with gravel-filled trenches (usually two to six trenches).

What kind of pipe do you use from house to septic tank?

Laying Out a Septic-Tank Disposal System. The septic tank should be positioned at least 50 feet from the house proper. ABS or PVC plastic or cast iron pipe can be used to connect the tank to the house drainage system.

How deep are septic lines in NC?

Surface Waters: 50 feet. Embankments or cuts 2 feet deep or greater: 15 feet. Property line: 10 feet.

How much field line do I need for a septic tank?

A typical septic drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36″; or per the USDA, 2 feet to 5 feet in depth.

How do field lines run from septic tank?

The distribution box receives effluent from the septic tank via one large pipe. Between four and nine lateral pipes run out of the distribution box and radiate outward in trenches to form the leach field. Since this is a gravity-based system, the lateral pipes must run at a downhill slope.

How long are septic lateral lines?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

How far down are leach lines?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

What size pipe is used for septic?

A three-inch pipe is what’s used in homes to pipe toilets. The four-inch pipe is used as the building drain under floors or in crawlspaces to transport all the wastewater from a home out to the septic tank or sewer. The four-inch pipe may also be used in a home if it’s capturing two or more bathrooms.

How long should leach lines be?

A standard leach line is considered to be three (3) feet wide and three (3) feet deep with a length as required. A non-standard leach line is wider, narrower, and/or deeper than three (3) feet with a length as required.

How do I calculate the size of my septic drain field?

Drainfield Size

The size of the drainfield is based on the number of bedrooms and soil characteristics, and is given as square feet.
For example, the minimum required for a three bedroom house with a mid range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch is 750 square feet.

Can a leach field be too deep?

Drain Field Depth The result is a drain field about 3 to 4 feet deep. Sometimes, however, a drain field may need to be a bit shallower and can result in drain pipes as close to the surface as 6 inches. Underground obstacles can cause this situation.

Can you add dirt on top of leach field?

Never add additional soil over the drain field unless it is a minimal amount used to restore an area that may have been eroded or pulled up by removing another plant. Try not to be overly zealous when tilling the soil for planting. Remember that the drain lines may be as close as 6 inches from the soil surface.

How do I check my septic tank field lines?

Scan the area for markers: The location of your septic tank should be marked by a cement marker the size of a manhole cover. Look for it 10 to 20 feet away from your home. Once you locate the tank, follow the downward-most path and check for an empty downward-sloping field. You may have just found your drain field.

How do I find my septic lateral lines?

Call your local electric utility provider or gas company to locate buried gas or utility lines before digging. A septic tank probe can also help you find the location. Stick the long, thin metal probe into the ground until you feel it hit the tank and feel the edges of the tank.

What do lateral lines look like?

Lateral lines are usually visible as faint lines of pores running lengthwise down each side, from the vicinity of the gill covers to the base of the tail. Most amphibian larvae and some fully aquatic adult amphibians possess mechanosensitive systems comparable to the lateral line.

North Carolina Septic Tank Installation Regulations

KevinDerrick/iStock/GettyImages Septic tank installation in North Carolina must meet a number of stringent regulations. According to the law, septic systems must be constructed to accommodate the soil characteristics of their respective sites and the surrounding environment. Individuals who live in single-family residences in areas where municipal or community sewage disposal is not available can use septic tanks as part of an on-site sewage disposal system. Septic tanks are used by single-family residences throughout the state where municipal or community sewage disposal is not available.

Definition

It is defined by the state as “a water-tight, covered receptacle designed for primary treatment of sewage,” which will collect sewage from buildings, separate floating waste from sinking waste, use anaerobic action to digest organic waste, store solids, and allow the liquids to drain out for further treatment and disposal.

Setbacks

Septic tanks must be located at least 100 feet away from private or public water sources, streams, and reservoirs, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. They should be kept a minimum of 50 feet away from bodies of water such as beaches, canals, marshes, storm-water retention ponds, lakes, and ponds. 15 feet should be left between septic tanks and basements, embankments, drainage system side slopes, and swimming pools to prevent clogging. It is also necessary to keep septic tanks at least 10 feet away from the edge of a property or from water lines or the up-slope component of drainage systems.

Septic tanks cannot be installed in areas where there is a risk of flooding every 10 years or fewer unless they are waterproof and capable of remaining watertight during a storm or other disaster.

Installation Specifications

Septic tanks must contain two compartments, with the intake compartment having a volume of between 2/3 and 3/4 of the tank’s total capacity, according to state regulations. Make use of an effluent filter and make sure that you have access to the filter and the tank at all times. Use a sanitary tee on both the input and output of the system. When the top of the tank is less than 6 inches above the ground surface, a manhole and cover should be installed at each tank access location. If the manhole cover is below grade, mark the position of each manhole.

Four bedrooms require a minimum of a 1,000-gallon tank, and five bedrooms demand a minimum of a 1,250-gallon tank, according to the EPA.

This support case should be at least 24 inches away from the septic tank outflow and it must be waterproof in order to be effective.

Prefabricated septic tanks are approved by regulatory bodies based on the designs for the septic system and the specifications of the tank itself.

Septic System Owner’s Guide

What kind of computer system do you have? In North Carolina, there are many distinct types of septic systems in use, but the vast majority of the over 2 million systems in use throughout the state are minor variations of the typical septic system. This system includes a septic tank as well as a drainfield that is filled with gravel (usually two to six trenches). Since the mid- to late-1990s, classic gravel aggregate trenches have been phased out in favor of innovative gravel-less trench designs, which have become increasingly popular.

Some of the most often used gravel-free trenches nowadays are either long and narrow, tunnel-shaped chambers in the trenche, or gravel replacements such as expanded polystyrene aggregate.
A booklet from the Cooperative Extension Service, AG-439-13, Septic Systems and Their Maintenance, outlines the typical system, easy adjustments to it, and the most significant maintenance requirements.
The application of these technologies is now widespread, whether in new housing projects or in the replacement or repair of malfunctioning septic systems in residences and businesses.

In order to address this, state regulations provide specified maintenance requirements for a number of these more advanced technology.
Furthermore, state regulations mandate that the health department examine these systems on a regular basis.
Are you familiar with the location of your septic system and repair area?

If you do not have a copy of your septic system permit or a soil evaluation document, contact your local health department.

This Septic System Owner’s Guidefile folder should contain the following items: It is normally possible to establish the location of a septic tank and drainfield by looking at a copy of the permit and consulting with a septic contractor, a consultant, or the local health department A “repair area or replacement area,” in which a second drainfield might be constructed if necessary, has been required on nearly all home sites approved since the early 1980s, according to state law.

It should be noted on your septic system permit that this repair area was designated by the health department when the site was allowed.

Some Important Facts to Understand About Your Septic System

In what form of septic system do you have
Where is it situated
And where is the repair area situated? Is the septic system up and running? In the past, has it been kept up to date? What can you do on a day-to-day basis to ensure that your system continues to function properly? What kind of maintenance will be required in the future

On the grid labeledSeptic System Layout, draw a rough sketch of your home, septic system (including both the tank and drainfield), repair area, and any other essential features (such as your driveway). The distance between the home and the access port on the septic tank should be measured and recorded when having your septic tank drained. This will assist you in locating it again. You may also want to indicate the position of your tank as well as the limits of your drainfield in your yard. If you do not have a riser installed over the access port for your septic tank, you may want to consider having one put in.

Even when properly maintained, septic tanks can contain harmful gases and pollutants, as well as bacteria and other germs that can cause major health problems if not addressed.
Is your septic system in proper functioning order?

Many individuals are unaware that untreated sewage that has accumulated on the surface of the ground might be a health threat.
Before fixing a malfunctioning septic system, you must get a permit from the local health authority, according to state regulations.
What kind of upkeep has been carried out?

If you are purchasing an existing house, you should ask the seller a few critical questions, such as the following:

What is the age of the system
What is the location of the tank and drainfield (they may or may not be on the same property or even on the same parcel of land)

When was the last time the tank was pumped
What is the frequency with which it has been pushed
Is it necessary to clean the “effluent filter” in the septic tank on a regular basis (effluent filters are required for systems established after 1999)

Has there been any indication of a likely failure? In what location can I get a copy of the permit and documentation proving how effectively (or poorly) the system has been maintained
Do you know whether any improvements have been made to the house that would necessitate expanding the capacity of the system? Is the system still operational, and if so, when and by whom was it repaired?

If the house has only recently been constructed, request that the septic system contractor give you with a “as built” schematic, which may include elements that were not included in the permit. If the house is equipped with a pump, request that the contractor and the local health agency supply specifics on how the pump was initially installed. In order to properly care for your septic system, you must manage it on a day-to-day basis as well as perform periodic maintenance and repairs. Layout of a septic system.

However, the drainfield does not have an indefinite capacity. The average daily water use per person is 50 gallons. Even for brief periods of time, the soil drainfield has a maximum daily design capacity of 120 gallons per bedroom, which is routinely exceeded. Overloads can occur at any time of year, on a daily basis, or on weekends. Fix any leaky faucets or toilets you may have. Water conservation will help you get more use out of your system.

Keep waste disposal to sewage alone.

It is not acceptable to utilize your septic tank as a garbage can for items such as cigarette butts, tissues, feminine hygiene products, cotton swabs, cat litter, coffee grinds, or disposable diapers. Reduce the amount of time you use your garbage disposal. These contribute a significant amount of additional solids. It is not recommended to throw fat or cooking oil down the drain. You should avoid putting toxic chemicals into your system, such as solvents and oils. You should avoid using paint thinners and paint thinners that have been dumped. You should avoid disinfectants and pesticides. Conserve your funds. Most of the time, commercial septic tank additives are not required.

Ensure that the system is protected against physical harm (site maintenance).

Maintain a layer of plants on the soil over the drainfield to prevent soil erosion from occurring. Don’t drive your car above the system’s limits. Try to avoid building over the system or in the repair area. The natural shape of the terrain immediately downslope of the system should be preserved, and this region should be protected against excavation (cutting and filling). Neither asphalt nor concrete should be used to cover the tank or drainfield.

All wastewater should be disposed of in a system that has been authorized.

You shouldn’t install a separate pipe to transport washwater to a side ditch or into the woods. This is against the law

The house and the yard (site maintenance)

Conserve and preserve the area where your septic tank and drainfield are located

Trees that thrive in moist environments should be cut down and removed. Willows, elms, sweetgums, and certain maples are examples of such trees. Surface water should be diverted away from the tank and drainfield by landscaping the yard. Inspect the system to make sure that water from the roof, gutter, and foundation drains does not overflow
It is recommended that if your system is located at the base of a slope, you build a french drain to channel subterranean water. Ensure that drainage ditches, subsurface tiles, and drainage outlets are kept in good condition so that water may readily flow from them.

Sewage treatment system (Septic tank)

Tanks should be elevated if they are 6 inches or deeper below the surface. They offer quick and convenient access for solids measurement and pumping, as well as for cleaning the effluent filter. The rate at which sludge and scum build in the tank is measured. Make a note of this information and provide it to your expert pumper. Solids should be pushed out of the tank as necessary. Most septic tanks have two sections
It is necessary to have them drained out. More information about pumping frequency can be found in the Cooperative Extension Service document AG-439-13, Septic Systems and Their Maintenance, which is available online. It is not necessary to wait till your drainfield collapses before having your tank pumped. By that time, the drainfield may have been completely destroyed. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to septic systems.

Preventive Maintenance Record
Date	Work Done	Firm	Cost

Your Septic System Installer

Name:

Address:

Phone:

Date System Installed:

If sewage is backing up into your toilets, tubs, or sinks, call a plumber. Slowly draining fittings, especially after it has rained

Slow-draining fixtures A foul odor associated with damp soil or sewage dumped onto the ground or into neighboring ditches or wooded areas
Please keep in mind that sewage from pump systems may rise to the surface of the ground when the pump is switched on and then disappear when the pump is turned off. This is still a failure of the system, and it must be fixed. a red light blinking or beeping in the home or in the yard, signaling that a pump is not functioning correctly or that the water level in a pump tank is excessive and on the verge of failing
A rise in the number of diseases or illnesses related with swimming in nearby lakes or rivers

Regulations and safeguards are necessary.

Any system that includes a pump should be operated by a state-certified subsurface system operator. In the case of low pressure pipe (LPP) systems erected or repaired after July 1, 1992, as well as underground drip irrigation systems, aerobic treatment units (ATUs), peat biofilters, sand biofilters, textile biofilters, and other sophisticated systems, a permit will be required by law. Those interested in obtaining a list of state-certified subsurface system operators should contact the North Carolina Water Pollution Control System Certification Commission at 919-707-9089. Between planned maintenance visits, check to see that the pump and electrical components are still in proper operating order. Germs found in sewage have the potential to cause disease. Never go into a septic tank unless absolutely necessary. Toxic and explosive gases are present in the tank, posing a threat. Tanks that are more than a decade old may collapse. Electrical controls provide a risk of electric shock and sparking. Children should not be able to open the septic tank lid, hence it should be secured. Do not attempt to repair a malfunctioning system on your own time. Obtain a repair permit and employ a contractor with extensive expertise

For further information about septic systems, speak with an Extension agent in your county or the local public health agency. This paper is an updated version of a previous publication. It is with gratitude that we acknowledge Tom Konsler (Orange County Health Department), Deanna Osmond, Mitch Woodward, and Grace Lawrence (North Carolina Cooperative Extension) for their contributions to the document’s peer review, as well as Debra Ireland for her work on the document’s graphic design, layout, and editing.

Discrimination and harassment are prohibited at North Carolina Cooperative Extension, regardless of age, color, handicap, family and marital status, gender identity, national origin, political opinions, racism, religion, sex (including pregnancy), sexual orientation, or veteran status.

Updated Deemed Permitted Rule for Sewers Shared by Two Residential Structures

On June 30, 2020, the legislature enacted Session Law 2020-61 (SL 2020-61). Sections 4.(a) through (e) apply to sewers that are shared between two residential structures and that also fulfill certain standards, as described in Section 4. Please see the presentation linked below for more information on the specifics of how this new legislation applies to the “Deemed Permitted Rule” stated in 15A NCAC 02T.0303. This paper contains supplemental material, examples, and other information, and annotated comments are accessible for each slide on the PDF version of the document.

Even though the Division has already discontinued the general permitting program, your shared sewer system may still be covered by the General Permit and no further action has to be taken on your behalf.
The extension of the Deemed Permitted Rule does not apply to triplexes and larger multi-family residential constructions, including townhouse structures with three or more single-family units.

When an Accessory Building is defined as a building that is not a primary residence, it is defined as a building that is not Figure: Sewer line layouts that might be used for primary residences with an attached accessory building What kinds of scenarios fall within this category?
It is necessary for both residential constructions to stay on the same property in perpetuity in order to maintain coverage under SL 2020-61.
Property owners are encouraged to have deed limitations documented in their local county register of deeds office, as recommended by the Division of Land Development.

Projects that are not covered by the insurance In addition, SL 2020-61 cannot be used to projects that need a state discharge permit or any other sort of non-discharge permit, nor can it be applied to projects that involve any non-residential structures at all.

There are several designs of shared sewage lines that are not covered by SL 2020-61 or the current Deemed Permitted Rule, including the following:

Septic system lines that are shared by more than two residential buildings
Sewer lines that are shared and pressured, in which two force mains link together before to discharging into a sewer main

Conditions where the shared sewage line must cross other property or pass via the right-of way and the total flow from all residential structures exceeds 600 gallons per day, calculated on the basis of 120 gallons per day per bedroom (15A NCAC 02T.0114) or a Division-approved flow reduction Lines that are pressurized and connect to an existing force main
Projects in which the two residential structures are already or will be placed on distinct parcels
Projects in which the two residential structures will be located on separate parcels

It is necessary to submit an application for an individual sewage line expansion permit if your project does not qualify for coverage under SL 2020-61 or the current Deemed Permitted Rule. Sandiegocounty.gov Legal Authority/Statute Reference:North Carolina General Statutes 143-215.1; 15A NCAC 02T.0114; 15A NCAC 02T.0303; Session Law 2020-61; North Carolina General Statutes 143-215.1; 15A NCAC 02T.0114; 15A NCAC 02T.0303; Session Law 2020-61. Statewide Information on how to get in touch with us: The North Carolina Division of Water Resources Municipal Permitting Unit is located at 1617 Mail Service Center, Raleigh, NC27699-1617, and may be reached at (919) 707-3601 or via e-mail.

How to Care for Your Septic System

Septic system maintenance is neither difficult or expensive, and it does not have to be done frequently. The maintenance of a vehicle is comprised of four major components:

Inspect and pump your drainfield on a regular basis
Conserve water
Dispose of waste properly

And keep your drainfield in good condition.

Inspect and Pump Frequently

Inspection of the ordinary residential septic system should be performed by a septic service specialist at least once every three years. Household septic tanks are normally pumped every three to five years, depending on how often they are used. Alternative systems that use electrical float switches, pumps, or mechanical components should be examined more frequently, typically once a year, to ensure that they are in proper working order. Because alternative systems contain mechanical components, it is essential to have a service contract.

The size of the household

The total amount of wastewater produced
The amount of solids present in wastewater
The size of the septic tank

Service provider coming? Here is what you need to know.

When you contact a septic service provider, he or she will inspect your septic tank for leaks as well as the scum and sludge layers that have built up over time. Maintain detailed records of any maintenance work conducted on your septic system. Because of the T-shaped outlet on the side of your tank, sludge and scum will not be able to escape from the tank and travel to the drainfield region. A pumping is required when the bottom of the scum layer or the top of the sludge layer is within six inches of the bottom of the outlet, or if the top of the sludge layer is within 12 inches of the bottom of the outlet.

In the service report for your system, the service provider should mention the completion of repairs as well as the condition of the tank.

An online septic finder from the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association (NOWRA) makes it simple to identify service specialists in your region.

Use Water Efficiently

In a normal single-family house, the average indoor water consumption is about 70 gallons per person, per day, on average. A single leaking or running toilet can waste as much as 200 gallons of water each day, depending on the situation. The septic system is responsible for disposing of all of the water that a residence sends down its pipes. The more water that is conserved in a household, the less water that enters the sewage system.

A septic system that is operated efficiently will operate more efficiently and will have a lower chance of failure. The Environmental Protection Agency’s WaterSense program offers several simple strategies to conserve water as well as water-efficient goods.

Toilets with a high level of efficiency. The usage of toilets accounts for 25 to 30% of total home water use. Many older homes have toilets with reservoirs that hold 3.5 to 5 gallons of water, but contemporary, high-efficiency toilets consume 1.6 gallons or less of water for each flush. Changing out your old toilets for high-efficiency versions is a simple approach to lessen the amount of household water that gets into your septic system. Aerators for faucets and high-efficiency showerheads are also available. Reduce water use and the volume of water entering your septic system by using faucet aerators, high-efficiency showerheads, and shower flow restriction devices. Machines for washing clothes. Water and energy are wasted when little loads of laundry are washed on the large-load cycle of your washing machine. By selecting the appropriate load size, you may limit the amount of water wasted. If you are unable to specify a load size, only complete loads of washing should be performed. Washing machine use should be spread throughout the week if at all possible. Doing all of your household laundry in one day may appear to be a time-saving strategy
Nevertheless, it can cause damage to your septic system by denying your septic tank adequate time to handle waste and may even cause your drainfield to overflow. Machines that have earned theENERGY STARlabel consume 35 percent less energy and 50 percent less water than ordinary ones, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Other Energy Star appliances can save you a lot of money on your energy and water bills.

Properly Dispose of Waste

Everything that goes down your drains, whether it’s flushed down the toilet, ground up in the trash disposal, or poured down the sink, shower, or bath, ends up in your septic system, which is where it belongs. What you flush down the toilet has an impact on how effectively your septic system functions.

Toilets aren’t trash cans!

Your septic system is not a garbage disposal system. A simple rule of thumb is to never flush anything other than human waste and toilet paper down the toilet. Never flush a toilet:

Cooking grease or oil

Wipes that are not flushable, such as baby wipes or other wet wipes
Photographic solutions
Feminine hygiene items Condoms

Medical supplies such as dental floss and disposable diapers, cigarette butts and coffee grounds, cat litter and paper towels, pharmaceuticals, and household chemicals such as gasoline and oil, insecticides, antifreeze, and paint or paint thinners

Toilet Paper Needs to Be Flushed! Check out this video, which demonstrates why the only item you should flush down your toilet are toilet paper rolls.

Think at the sink!

Your septic system is made up of a collection of living organisms that digest and treat the waste generated by your household. Pouring pollutants down your drain can kill these organisms and cause damage to your septic system as well as other things. Whether you’re at the kitchen sink, the bathtub, or the utility sink, remember the following:

If you have a clogged drain, avoid using chemical drain openers. To prevent this from happening, use hot water or a drain snake
Never dump cooking oil or grease down the sink or toilet. It is never a good idea to flush oil-based paints, solvents, or huge quantities of harmful cleansers down the toilet. Even latex paint waste should be kept to a bare minimum. Disposal of rubbish should be avoided or limited to a minimum. Fats, grease, and particles will be considerably reduced in your septic tank, reducing the likelihood of your drainfield being clogged.

Own a recreational vehicle (RV), boat or mobile home?

If you have ever spent any time in an RV or boat, you are undoubtedly familiar with the issue of aromas emanating from sewage holding tanks.

The problem of smells from sewage holding tanks is undoubtedly familiar to everyone who has spent any time in an RV or boat.

Maintain Your Drainfield

It is critical that you maintain the integrity of your drainfield, which is a component of your septic system that filters impurities from the liquid that emerges from your septic tank once it has been installed. Here are some things you should do to keep it in good condition:

Parking: Do not park or drive on your drainfield at any time. Plan your tree plantings so that their roots do not grow into your drainfield or septic system. An experienced septic service provider can recommend the appropriate distance for your septic tank and surrounding landscaping, based on your specific situation. Locating Your Drainfield: Keep any roof drains, sump pumps, and other rainfall drainage systems away from the drainfield area. Excess water causes the wastewater treatment process to slow down or halt completely.

Septic systems: How big should my drainage field be?

Do not park or drive on your drainfield; it is illegal to do so. Construction: Plant trees at a proper distance from your drainfield to prevent roots from growing into your septic system. An experienced septic service provider can recommend the appropriate distance for your septic tank and surrounding landscaping, based on your particular situation. Roof drains, sump pumps, and other rainfall drainage systems should be kept away from the drainfield area. In excess water, the wastewater treatment process will slow down or halt completely;

Everything You Need to Know About Your Septic Tank

What is a septic tank, and how does it work? A septic tank is a water-tight container that is often constructed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene to prevent flooding (plastic). In fact, it is only one component of the entire septic system, which includes several other components such as a distribution box, pumps, float switches, aerators, filters, and other accessories. Septic systems are used to treat wastewater on-site in many rural and suburban areas that do not have access to centralized sewage systems.

The components of a conventional septic tank are depicted in the diagram below.

These are:

The Tank: This is the water-tight tank into which wastewater from your house is sent once it has been collected. A hole, fracture, or any other structural damage should not be present. Access Ports: When a trained pumper comes to clean up your tank, they will utilize an access port. When it comes to tank cleaning, it is critical that the access port be large enough to allow the pumper to move the hose about within the tank properly. A common application for risers is to elevate septic tank access above ground level, eliminating the need to dig up your septic tank every time it has to be pumped. Last but not least, the access port should be securely secured with a child-resistant lid. It is vital for the protection of your family that septic tank lids are securely fastened with screws and that they are not cracked or damaged. Pipes for entering and exiting the septic tank: Wastewater from your house enters the septic tank through the intake pipe. After the particles have settled out, the effluent is discharged from the septic tank through the exit pipe and into the drainage field. There should be roughly 3 inches between the output pipe and the intake pipe. A baffle is fitted on the intake pipe within the tank, and it serves to keep the water out. It provides a variety of functions. Additionally, it helps to avoid the build-up of scum and its backup into the intake pipe It is also important for solids to settle in the tank that the input baffle be properly installed. When wastewater enters the septic tank, it should hit the entrance baffle, which will reduce the flow and prevent the tank from becoming agitated. This permits the contents of the septic tank to remain at rest, allowing the solids to sink to the bottom of the tank. The intake baffle can also prevent odorous odors from entering the sewage line and spreading throughout the home or business

And It is even more crucial than the inlet baffle to have an exit baffle in place because it helps to prevent scum and other particles from flowing directly into the outflow pipe and eventually into the drain field. Gas Deflector/Effluent Filter: As gas bubbles climb to the top of a septic tank, they may bring sediments with them. This is why an effluent filter is used. A gas deflector prevents these solid-carrying gases from entering the output line by preventing them from entering. However, while not every septic tank is equipped with an effluent filter, it is strongly suggested as an additional safety to prevent particulates from entering your drain field.

Any of the above-mentioned components in your septic tank should be checked for damage or missing parts as soon as possible, and the problem should be resolved by a septic system specialist. What is the operation of a septic tank? Each and every drop of wastewater from your home is channeled via a main drainage pipe and into your septic tank. Solids are prevented from entering your drain field by using the septic tank, which is just a settling tank that serves as a filter. Ideally, the water should be kept in the tank for at least one day in order to enable time for the solids to settle.

Heavy materials, such as dirt and digested waste, will sink to the bottom of the tank and form a sludge layer at the bottom of the tank.

Effluent is the term used to describe the liquid that exists between the sludge and scum layers.
It is critical that solids are given adequate time and space to settle before being used.
In fact, the Pennsylvania Department of Environmental Protection mandates a minimum capacity of 900 gallons for any new septic tank installations in the state (the table below shows recommended septic tank capacities for different sized homes).

Ideally, you should have your septic tank emptied every two to three years, according to the Pennsylvania Septage Management Association (PSMA).
If a drain field has been ruined by a buildup of sediments, it might cost tens of thousands of dollars to rebuild it.
It is crucial to understand that your septic tank must be completely filled with liquid in order to function effectively.

The septic tank diagram shown above depicts the correct operating level of a septic tank in a residential setting.
The result is that whenever more wastewater is added to the tank, an equal volume of effluent will be discharged from the tank and drain into the drain field.
The opposite is true if the liquid level is higher than the outflow line, which may signal a blockage in a line downstream from the septic tank or in the drain field.

If you’re wondering if your septic tank is full, a skilled pumper will consider it “full” once solids have filled one-third of the tank’s capacity. This is the time of year when your septic tank will need to be pumped.

Onsite Wastewater Septic Systems

On-Site Wastewater Treatment System

On-Site Wastewater Contractors who are NCCertified
Septic Permit Application (PDF)

FeeSchedule (PDF)
On-Site Wastewater Contractors who are NCCertified

NOTICE: Property owners and individuals requesting site evaluations for On-Site Wastewater permits are strongly encouraged to identify any other authority that may have jurisdiction over the property to be evaluated and to comply with any and all requirements that the town, municipality, or other entity may have prior to making improvements to the property. Issue of a Permit (On-Site Wastewater Permit) by the Health Department does not imply or imply the issuance of any additional permits by the Department.

The following information must be submitted before a property or parcel may be evaluated:

WARNING: Property owners and individuals requesting site evaluations for On-Site Wastewater permits are strongly encouraged to identify any other authority that may have jurisdiction over the property to be evaluated and to comply with any and all requirements that the town, municipality, or other entity may have that must be met before any improvements to the property are made. The issuing of a Permit (On-Site Wastewater Permit) by the Health Department does not imply that any more permits will be issued in the future. It is not considered complete until the money and siteplan have been received for the application for an Improvement Permit or Authorization for Construction of an on-site wastewater system. It is necessary to supply the following information before a property/parcel may be evaluated:

A survey plat of the property prepared by a RegisteredLand Surveyor is available for viewing. The map was created at a scale of one inch equals no more than sixty feet and shows the following information:

The property’s physical dimensions
Specific position of the structure to be constructed on the site, as well as access to the driveway
The proposed wastewater treatment plant’s location

Identifying the location of groundwater supplies and surface water sources. – OR – Alternatively

Please submit a copy of the documented plat, as well as a site plan drawn to scale and containing all of the information needed innumber 3 above, if the lot has been recorded at the Register ofDeeds Office.

Advice: Call the Register of Deeds Office at 828-349-2095 to discover if a survey map of your property already exists and if so, which one. Prior to a site examination by an authorized agent of the Health Department, the property must be prepared in the manner outlined below:

Recognize and mark all of the survey corners on the property, or on the prospective property. Find and mark an existing survey iron if a new lot is suggested that has not yet been surveyed. This iron may be utilized as a reference point for the new lot. Then, on the field, draw a line across the planned corners of the lot. Prior to doing any examination, it is necessary to create corners and lotlines. All of the elements indicated on the site plan or survey plat must be clearly located and marked on the land
The site must be easily accessible for the assessment
And the site must be free of obstructions.

Please contact us at (828) 349-2490 after the site has been properly prepped in accordance with these guidelines. When working under typical conditions, a site review should be completed within 4 weeks. You will be contacted by phone in order to coordinate meetings with Health Department personnel while site evaluation operations are taking place. Obtaining Septic Permits: A Guide for Homeowners When subdividing a property, it is important to remember that A preliminary survey plat completed by a Registered Land Surveyor and drawn to a scale of one inch equals no more than 60 feet must be provided before the Health Department may examine the property.

House locations must be marked with stakes, and driveway access must be clearly marked.
There is a charge for each application, which is determined by the size of the system that is required.
Obtaining the assistance of a soil scientist or a systems designer may be desirable or necessary in your situation.
Before a permit can be obtained, a variety of variables must be taken into consideration, including soil texture and depth, terrain, and the size of the appropriate area.

This section has been marked as a “repair” area. It is possible that the following list of setback requirements can assist you in deciding how to divide the land. A ground absorption sewage treatment and disposal system must be installed at least at the following locations:

There should be no more than 100 feet between any private water supply source and any public water supply source, and no more than 50 feet between any stream, canal, marsh, or coastal waters. Any class I or II impoundedreservoir that is used as a source of drinking water must be at least 100 feet away from the typical high water line. Any additional lake or impoundment must be at least 50 feet away from its typical high water line. 5-feet away from any structure’s base, including a deck
15 feet away from any basement
A distance of 10 feet from any property border
From the top of an embankment or cut with a vertical height of two feet or more, measure 15′ from the top of the slope
10-feet away from any water line
10-feet away from interceptor drains (either up-slope or down-slope)
25-feet away from ground water lowering and surface drainageditches
15-feet away from any swimming pool
20-feet away from any other nitrification field

Please keep in mind that these values indicate the absolute minimum horizontal distances.

What do I do if My Septic Alarm is Going Off?

In the event that your septic alarm goes off, it may surely create some anxiety and uncertainty; and if you happen to be experiencing this right now, then you’ve arrived to the correct location! Don’t be concerned; it does not necessitate urgent action. Instead, take your time to go through this full essay so that you will be prepared to act now or in the future if the situation arises. What Septic Systems Are and How They Work The alarm works in conjunction with the septic system to alert you when the water level within the pump tank has increased to an unsafe level or has decreased to an unsafe level.

The timer is in charge of regulating the time intervals during which the pump is permitted to pump wastewater into the drainage system.
Thus, during periods of excessive water use, the drain field is kept from getting overflowing, which might cause damage to the drainage system.
A large amount of water is injected into the system in between pumping cycles for whatever cause, and the water has nowhere else to go but back into the system’s pump tank.
Depending on how much water was and continues to be put into the system and how the pump is set up to operate on a timer, it may take many pumping cycles until the water levels are returned to normal.

There is an excessive amount of water being put into the septic system. This is the result of excessive water use, which might be caused by multiple loads of laundry, an excessive quantity of dishwashing, or a disproportionate number of long showers.

Somehow, groundwater is making its way into the system. If there is an excessive amount of standing water surrounding the septic tanks, whether generated by rain or another source, the water may seep into the tanks and cause the internal water level to rise.

It’s possible that one of the components of the septic system is malfunctioning. If anything goes wrong with your system — including the pump and floats — the alarm and timer will go off and the septic system will stop working correctly.

The Best Thing to Do If Your Alarm Goes Off Alternatively, if you hear an alert, you should press the red button or turn on the alarm box. The alarm will be turned off as a result of this action. There should be a red light and a green light on the alarm box, which should be situated someplace on the unit. The green light indicates that the alarm is operational and should be left on at all times. It is shown by a red light if the alarm is getting a signal from the pump tank indicating that the water level is increasing above or decreasing below what is expected.

If the breaker occurs to be tripped, look around the septic tanks to see if there is any standing water.
It is possible that the red light on the alarm box will go out on its own after allowing the septic system to operate for a couple of pump cycles (which should take approximately 10-15 hours).
If the red light turns off, it signifies that the system is operating properly and that it only needs to catch up with the extra water that has overflowed into the storage tank.
To be clear, an alarm signal from the septic system does not always imply that sewage is about to back up into the house right away.
Do you require septic system repair on a regular basis or emergency service?

To arrange an appointment, please call (804) 581-0001 or send us an email through our contact page. Want to learn more about septic systems? Explore our septic system web sites by clicking on the “Septic” navigation option in the top navigation bar.

How Much Does a Septic Tank System Cost?

A Quick Look at Septic Tank Prices

Total cost: $3,900 on average
$1,500 to $5,000 on a sliding scale
Anaerobic septic tanks cost between $2,000 and $5,000
Aerobic septic tanks cost between $10,000 and $20,000
Gravity septic tanks cost between $1,500 and $4,000
Mound septic tanks cost between $10,000 and $20,000
Chamber septic tanks cost between $1,500 and $5,000
Conventional septic tanks cost between $2,000 and $5,000.

The wastewater generated by your household is teeming with potentially harmful germs. In order to properly dispose of waste and prevent it from backing up into your sinks and toilets, you must ensure that your septic tank is in good working condition. This Might Also Be of Interest to You: What Is the Difference Between a Septic System and a Sewer System? Everything you need to know about septic tank replacement, including how much it will cost, can be found in this article.

What Is a Septic Tank?

A septic tank is an underground chamber that is used to treat residential wastewater to a modest degree. It is intended to store wastewater for an extended period of time, allowing particles to settle to the bottom and oil and grease to float to the surface. After that, the liquid waste is filtered away.

How Much Does It Cost to Install a Septic Tank?

In most cases, a new septic tank system will cost you around $3,900 to install. It costs between $1,500 and $5,000 to install a conventional 1,250-gallon tank, which is the perfect size for a three- or four-bedroom house. This price includes the tank itself, which ranges in price from $600 to $2,100 or more depending on the size and kind. Workman’s compensation is included in the price of the installation and often ranges from $1,500 to $4,000.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic tank installation and replacement costs are heavily influenced by the type of system that you select to use. Tanks come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Here are a few examples:

Anaerobic Septic System

Anaerobic systems are a popular alternative for many homes since they don’t require any additional electricity or chemicals to function properly. Anaerobic systems include microorganisms that do not require oxygen to exist and hence are called anaerobic systems. Solid waste is broken down by microbes, and any leftover liquid waste is pumped out and spread beneath the surface of the soil. The garbage is naturally recycled when the water seeps into the ground and returns to the environment. The installation of these devices is between $2,000 and $5,000.

Aerobic Septic System

Anaerobic systems are a popular alternative for many households since they don’t require any additional electricity or chemicals to function well. Bacteria that do not require oxygen to thrive are found in anaerobic environments. As solid trash is decomposed by microorganisms, the residual liquid waste is pumped out and spread beneath the soil surface. As the water drains into the earth, the trash is organically recycled. Installation of these systems is between $2,000 and $5,000.

Gravity Septic System

Gravity septic systems employ gravity to filter and move water through the system. They must be put on a mild slope in order to allow water to flow without the use of a pump. The cost of installation ranges from $1,500 to $4,000.

Conventional Septic System

Gravity septic systems rely on gravity to filter and move water through the system, rather than pumps.

To allow for water flow without the need of a pump, they must be positioned on a moderate slope. Installation costs between $1,500 and $4,000 depending on the complexity of the project.

Mound Septic System

If your groundwater table is close to the surface, a mound septic system is the most appropriate option for your situation. An area for the septic system is prepared, and a sand mound is built to allow effluent from the tank to be pumped into the mound in modest amounts. The sand then acts as a filter, preventing the water from reaching the soil and groundwater. This design necessitates a large amount of floor space. They’re also expensive to install since a sand mound needs to be built before they can be utilized.

Chamber Septic System

Chamber septic systems have lately gained popularity as an alternative to traditional septic systems. They are comparable to conventional systems, with the exception that plastic chambers, rather than gravel, are utilized in the drain field. These are less difficult to build and have a lower carbon footprint. The cost of installing them ranges from $1,500 to $5,000.

Septic Tank Materials

Lately, though, chamber septic systems have gained popularity as an alternative option. Plastic chambers are utilized in the drain field instead of gravel, which makes them identical to traditional systems. These are less difficult to build and have a lesser carbon footprint. Installation costs between $1,500 and $5,000.

Concrete

Concrete septic tanks are the most prevalent form of septic tank because they are extremely long-lasting and reliable. They can survive for 20 to 30 years if they are properly maintained. Concrete, on the other hand, may break with time. When concrete is reinforced with rebar, the strength of the concrete is increased when subjected to pressure. Because of its weight, installation is more difficult and necessitates the use of specialized equipment. The cost of a typical-sized concrete tank ranges from $720 to $2,050 dollars.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass does not deteriorate when utilized underground, and because it is nonporous, it will not support the formation of algae. Because of the tank’s modest weight, it is easy to install. You won’t have to worry about cracking since, unlike concrete, it will not expand or shrink as the weather changes. The typical cost of a fiberglass tank is between $1,600 and $2,000.

Plastic

Tanks made of plastic are lightweight and simple to install. They’re also fairly long-lasting. Plastic tanks range in price from $830 to $1,400 on average, depending on the kind.

Steel

In spite of steel’s strength and durability, septic tanks built of steel are susceptible to rust and collapse if not properly maintained. As a result, several municipal governments have tightened their restrictions in order to discourage their usage. Typically, you’ll discover them in regions where the system was already in operation. If you are able to have one installed, they range in price from $900 to $9,900.

What Size Septic Tank Do You Need?

The size of your septic tank is normally decided by the number of bedrooms in your house.

This is used to calculate the amount of water that will flow through the system on a daily basis. In general, the expense of a system increases in direct proportion to its size.

Two Bedrooms

A septic system with a minimum of a 750-gallon septic tank is required for a two-bedroom residence. However, in many localities, a 1,000-gallon tank is the least capacity that may be accommodated.

Three Bedrooms

A minimum of a 1,000-gallon water tank is required for a three-bedroom residence, which handles around 360 gallons of water each day on a daily basis.

Four Bedrooms

A bigger tank, with a minimum volume of 1,250 gallons, is required for a four-bedroom residence. It is capable of handling around 480 to 600 gallons of water each day. Additional Related Articles:

How to keep the cost of septic tank pumping to a bare minimum
3 Symptoms of Sewer and Septic System Problems
Do you have a clogged sewer line? Here’s What You Should Do
Water Sewer Line Repair: Do It Yourself or Hire a Professional
Listed here are 15 common plumbing problems that every homeowner should be aware of.

Septic Tank Repair Costs

It’s conceivable that only a certain component of your septic tank has to be replaced rather than the complete tank. Repairs and replacement parts can be purchased for a fraction of the cost of a complete system replacement. The following are some of the most often seen repairs:

Drain Field

Drain fields can get overloaded and flood, resulting in sewage backing up into toilets and sinks. The cost of replacing a drain or leach field ranges from $3,500 to $11,000.

Tank Pump

A replacement septic tank pump typically costs between $500 and $1,200.

Tank Filter

It is the most typical type of filter change that is performed by homeowners. It typically costs between $230 and $280.

Tank Lid

Concrete coverings and steel lids may break and corrode as a result of exposure to the elements. In most cases, you can repair a septic tank lid on your own for about $35 and $60. In most cases, having it changed by a professional is more expensive.

Tank Baffle

The baffle is responsible for directing wastewater through the septic tank. A replacement baffle piece will cost between $23 and $44 dollars.

Additional Factors to Consider

A septic tank can be built either below or above ground, depending on your preferences. Because of the amount of excavating and footing preparation required, installing a tank underground is a pricey endeavor. Underground septic tanks necessitate the construction of a drain field that can accommodate a soakaway. In addition, because the soakaway allows for part of the wastewater to drain into the ground, the tank will require less emptying over time. Over time, this might result in a reduction in your expenditure.

Some demand that an inspector check and approve the site, which might result in a fee being charged to the homeowner.

How Long Does a Septic Tank Last?

The lifespan of a septic tank varies based on the material used and the type of system used. The lifespan of a septic tank might be reduced if the tank becomes clogged due to roots or floods from groundwater. Septic systems have a lifespan of 15 to 20 years on average. Maintaining your septic tank on a regular basis is the most effective approach to extend its life. Keep in mind that maintaining your tank entails more than just draining out the contents; it’s also crucial to have a professional evaluate your tank on a regular basis and perform routine maintenance.

In the event that you have a plan in place, you can call our 24-hour repair hotline anytime a covered problem develops. We’ll dispatch one of our locally based, licensed, and highly qualified professionals to complete the work for you right away.