What Is The Basement Drain To Septic Tank In House Called? (TOP 5 Tips)

  • Similar to exterior drain tile, an interior French drainfeatures a perforated pipe that carries water to a collection pit where it can be pumped to the surface. This type of drain is located along the interior perimeter of the basement and lies below floor level.

What is a basement drain called?

Foundation drains are pipes that are installed under your foundation or basement floor to collect water and move it off-site to prevent your basement from filling with water.

What is my basement floor drain connected to?

The drain can connect to one of three things, either to the sewer system or to a sump pit. Drains connected to the sewer system are suitable for draining a washing machine, water softener or a basement laundry sink. The third connection is if your basement floor is lower than where the main sewer line leaves your home.

Does floor drain go to septic tank?

The pipe that connects a structure to a septic is a sewer. Storm water or ground water should not connect to a sanitary sewer served by a septic tank. All plumbing fixture drains and floor drains should.

What is a French drain in a basement?

A French drain (also called a weeping tile, drain tile, perimeter drain or sub-surface drain) is a common basement waterproofing solution. It’s a trench containing a perforated pipe that redirects surface water and groundwater away from the foundation.

What are footing drains?

A Footing Drain is an exterior foundation drainage system outside the foundation wall. Footing drains exist in both commercial and residential buildings. The drain itself is covered with gravel which allows the water to seep into the tile.

What is a French drain and what does it do?

French drains provide an easy channel for water to flow through. Water runs into a gravel-filled trench, then into perforated pipe at the bottom of the trench. Water travels freely through the pipe, which empties a safe distance from the house.

Why is my basement drain not draining?

If you are experiencing a drain backup in your basement, your wash tub basin, or laundry tub, may be the culprit. A quick fix may be to clean the strainer on the drain inlet, which you can easily do yourself. When the trap under the basin is clogged, you can try a plunger to clear the sediment and debris.

How do I know if my drain is connected to the sewer?

Sewer-Connected Floor Drains If your floor drain has an additional cleanout, you’ll see two outlets when you remove the grate; a large drain hole at the bottom and a smaller one, with a plug, on the side. The catch bowl and drainpipe are typically made from one of three types of material.

Are basement floor drains required?

Basement Floor Drains Are Essential. However, it is vital to properly install drains in the basement to prevent flooding, remove backflow, water from broken appliances, and reduce exposure to sewer gas. Even when a basement has a finished floor, a drain is necessary in case of an emergency and for a home’s maintenance.

Why is my drain in the basement backing up?

The cause of water backing up in your basement drain could be due to the backing up of a washtub basin or a washing machine, tree roots in the drain line, pipe deterioration, or the flushing of improper objects.

Is basement floor drain connected to sump pump?

What most people don’t know is that their home basement floor drains are usually directly tied to the sewer system of the whole house. In some houses, they even run directly into a sump pit from which the water is lifted to the exterior surface with a pump.

Can I plug my basement floor drain?

Floor drain. Test balls, twist plugs or pressure plugs can be installed to seal floor drains but will not let water flow in either direction. If plugs are not available, a flexible rubber ball that is just larger than the pipe diameter can be used in an emergency but will need to be braced in place.

What is the difference between a French drain and a trench drain?

Aside from what we’ve listed here, the difference between a French drain and a trench drain is that a French drain is used for water that is underground while a trench drain diverts excess water from a surface.

Are basement French drains effective?

Interior French drains, on the other hand, function to divert and carry away water and moisture out from the interior of your basement. This is one of the most effective systems for treating severe damp problems in basements. This assists to keep debris particles filtering into the pipe and clogging the system.

How much does it cost to put a French drain in a basement?

Interior basement French drains cost $40 to $100 per linear foot or $5,000 to $13,500 on average. Most basements need 100 to 150 linear feet of drain. They require more work and materials since they’ll need to go under the concrete and often need specialized membranes for drainage.

Where do Basement Floor Drains Go?

Basement floor drains are required in a wide variety of situations. Small businesses such as car repair shops, manufacturing enterprises, printers, and dry cleaners are among the most popular types of small businesses. Basement floor drains, on the other hand, aren’t usually a source of concern until there is an emergency or a sewage backup. Consequently, before that occurs, it is prudent to consider the question, “Where does my basement floor drain even go?” What the majority of people are unaware of is that their basement floor drains are typically immediately connected to the sewage system of the whole residence.

How basement floor drains are designed

Basement floor drains are required in a wide variety of situations and environments. Small enterprises such as car repair shops, manufacturing companies, printers, and dry cleaners are some of the most typical examples. In contrast, until there is an emergency or a sewer backup, basement floor drains aren’t a major source of concern. It’s probably better to question yourself where the basement floor drain is supposed to go before that happens. What the majority of people are unaware of is that their basement floor drains are typically immediately connected to the sewage system of the whole property.

Basement floor drains traps

Designed to prevent sewage gas from entering your home, the trap is placed outside your property. Traps like this one may be discovered in bathtubs, sinks, and showers, and they’re easy to find. The majority of the time, the trap is created in the shape of an extended region that always contains water. Water will prevent sewage fumes from rising into the home if they begin to rise in the direction of the house. If you look closely at your basement floor drain, you’ll most likely be able to see the grill, which is located on the visible end of the drain.

What happens if the basement floor drain gets clogged?

It won’t take long for you to smell sewage stink when your drain becomes clogged. In addition, water will be unable to pass through it correctly. In this instance, a drain tool must be used to clear the drain as quickly as possible after it has been blocked. A built-in space in all floor drains allows you to bypass the trap and enter a tool into the drain without having to remove the drain cover from the drain. This distinct hole is equipped with a plug that also serves as a gas storage compartment.

This is why, after immediately clearing the drain, you should replace the stopper with a new one to ensure that no gasses are allowed to pass through.

Basement floor drains serve an important job in your home, as you can see. Depending on the drain, they can lead to a variety of destinations. If you are in need of any basement floor drain repair or simply have a few inquiries, contact the professionals at A-1 Tank!

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

  1. All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.

The Guadalupe-Blanco River Authority has built an animated, interactive model of how a residential septic system works, which you can view here.

Do you have a septic system?

It’s possible that you’re already aware that you have a septic system. If you are not sure, here are some tell-tale symptoms that you most likely are:

  • You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

  • Taking a look at the “as constructed” drawing of your house
  • Making a visual inspection of your yard for lids and manhole covers
  • Getting in touch with a septic system service provider for assistance in locating it

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

  • There are several signs of a faulty septic system, and not all of them are unpleasant odors. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek professional help:.

Identifying the Parts of a Drain System

When everything is working well, we don’t give a second thought to the many components of a home’s drainage system. However, if it doesn’t function, you must be able to identify and discover the defective pieces in a short period of time. Now is the time to become familiar with your drainage system, rather than after a drain pipe has collapsed and unclean water is splattered all over your bathroom floor. While we commonly refer to this system as “the drain pipes,” it is really referred to as the DWV system, which is more technically correct.

To understand about the drain system, it might be beneficial to trace a drain line from a single plumbing fixture, such as a bathtub or sink, all the way out to the municipal sewage main.

Fixture Drains

  • Lee Wallender is a writer and musician from the United Kingdom. What most people are familiar with is the visible piece of a tub, shower, or sink drain, which is located at the top. Typically, each drain pathway begins with an aperture in the fixture, which is typically equipped with a plug or stopper, via which wastewater is routed from and to the sewage lines or septic field. Despite the fact that this is the most visible component, drain problems are rarely the result of a problem with this component. As a general rule, except in the case of leaking gaskets or washers that may cause a tub or sink bowl to leak, the most prevalent issues, such as drain obstructions, occur downstream from the fixture drain holes. The one exception is when a pop-up stopper in a bathroom sink or bathtub becomes clogged with hair. Drain trap: This component collects wastewater that has been discharged via a fixture and onto the ground below it

P-Traps

  • The drain hole of a sink, bathtub, or other plumbing fixture leads to a curved section of pipe known as the P-trap. The P-trap is often a 1 1/4 to 2-inch-diameter segment of pipe with a sharp curved bend in it, formed like the letter “P,” located immediately underneath the fixture drain opening. The aim of this drain trap is to collect standing water, which shuts the drain system and prevents sewage gases from rising from the sewer system and entering your property through the drain system. After a lengthy trip, you may have come home to a mild sewage gas scent in the air. This is most likely because the standing water in your drain traps has evaporated, allowing the sewer stench to enter your home.

Toilet Trap

  • If you look at the toilet bowl unit from the side, you may notice that it has a curved drain trap of its own, which is not immediately obvious when looking at the toilet bowl unit directly. In the same way that a sink drain trap does, this built-in trap serves the same purpose: to capture water and prevent sewer gases from rising into the home.

Clothes Washer Stand Pipe

  • Lee Wallender is a writer and musician from the United Kingdom. Another type of drain trap that is unique to your home is the one that serves your clothes washer. It drains into an uncovered standpipe that leads down to a curved drain trap, which in turn leads to a branch drain and then onward to the main drainage system. The majority of these components may be concealed under completed walls, but the standpipe itself is frequently visible. If your plumbing installation is more than a decade old, the standpipe system may be composed of galvanized iron or brass, or it may be made of PVC or ABS plastic. Continue to the fifth of ten sections below.
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Branch Drain Lines

  • Drainage Line for Branches Lee Wallender is a writer and musician from the United Kingdom. To link each of the fixture drain traps to the soil stacks, branch drain lines are laid horizontally (albeit with a small downward slope, referred to as pitch) and then connected to the main drain lines via the main drain lines. Branch drains are frequently totally concealed by the polished surfaces of the walls, ceilings, and floors. They may be created from a number of materials and are typically 1 1/2- to 2-inch in diameter
  • However, they can be made from larger diameters.

Soil Stack

  • When branch drains reach the end of their horizontal lines, they empty into soil stacks, also known as main drain stacks, which are vertical pipes with a wide diameter. Wastewater, as well as the solid wastes that it transports, will now drain into the main drain lines that feed to the city sewage system or septic field, rather than into the storm drain system. In comparison, soil stacks are bigger pipes with a diameter of around 3 to 4 inches.

Soil Stack Vent

This component of the DWV system is located at the top of a vertical dirt stack at the upper half of the stack. If you follow the vent stack upward, you will find that it enters your home through the roof, where it is exposed to the elements. The vent ensures that air pressure is maintained throughout the whole drain system. This is necessary in order to prevent the suction strength of the water travelling through the pipes from pushing water out of the individual drain traps, which would otherwise occur.

This is due to a little air-pressure vacuum attempting to suck water out of the draintraps. As long as the vent system is functioning properly, this suction will never reach a point where water is being pulled out of the traps. The vent pipes are used for two different purposes:

  1. The DWV system’s venting component is located in the upper portion of the vertical dirt stack. Continue upward and you will find that the vent stack penetrates through the roof of your house, where it is exposed to the elements. The vent ensures that the air pressure across the whole drain system is maintained. To prevent water from being drawn out of the individual drain traps by the suction strength of the flowing water, it is necessary to do so. It is possible that you have heard the sound of a drain gurgling while emptying water. This is due to a little air-pressure vacuum attempting to suck water from the draintraps. This suction will never reach a degree where water is drawn out of the traps if the vent system is operating properly. Both of these duties are performed by the vent pipes.

Sewer Line Clean-Out

  • The sewerclean-outor main home trap is only intended to be used in an emergency or for routine cleaning. If it is present, it is often located in a cap or hub that is affixed to a 3- to 4-inch diameter pipe that rises out of the slab floor of a basement or utility room. It is sometimes flush with the floor when installed this way. In some regions, the clean-out is installed in an in-ground fitting that is positioned just outside the foundation of the home. This fitting is utilized when a large clog is preventing the main sewage line from functioning properly. A motorized auger can be used to clear a blockage in the main drain once the cap has been removed. Continue to step 9 of 10 below.

Main Drain Line

  • Lee Wallender is a writer and musician from the United Kingdom. There is one main drain pipe that carries all of the wastewater from your home to the municipal sewer line. This pipe normally runs horizontally, but with a small downward slope, under the lowest level of your home and out to the municipal sewer main or out to the septic field. In situations when the street sewer or septic field is not located at a sufficiently low elevation, the main drain pipe may be hanging along the wall of your lowest level before it exits the building. It is usually 4 inches in diameter and made of ABS or PVC plastic, clay, or cast iron depending on the material being used. The mainline is rarely visible since it is normally located beneath the basement or foundation slab of the property. This drain line will most likely only be seen during significant system repairs or upgrades
  • Otherwise, it will be hidden.

Municipal Sewer Main

  • Lee Wallender is a writer and a musician from the United Kingdom. A single main drain pipe transports all of the wastewater from your home to the municipal sewer line. This pipe runs horizontally, but with a little downward slope, beneath the lowest level of your home and out to the municipal sewer main or out to the septic field. It is possible that the main drain pipe will be hanging along the wall of your lowest level before it exits the structure if the street sewer or septic field is not sufficiently low. It is typically 4 inches in diameter and made of ABS or PVC plastic, clay, or cast iron depending on the use. Because it normally runs beneath the basement or foundation slab of a home, the mainline is rarely visible. This drain line will most likely only be seen during significant system repairs or upgrades
  • Otherwise, it will likely be hidden.

Everything You Need to Know About Sewage Ejector Pumps

Using a sewage ejector pump, also known as a pump-up ejector system, you may prevent sewage from backing up into your home if your bathroom, laundry room, or any other sort of plumbing fixture is positioned below the level of the main sewer or septic line that runs from your house. Due to the fact that drain-wastewater flows mostly by gravity, any plumbing systems in which fixtures are positioned below the level of the main sewage line will require a pump or some other means of raising the wastewater in order for it to effectively flow down and out of the system.

What Is a Sewage Ejector Pump?

When a bathroom, laundry room, or any other sort of plumbing fixture is positioned below the level of the main sewer or septic line coming from the house, a sewage ejection pump, also known as a pump-up ejector system, is utilized. Due to the fact that drain-wastewater flows mostly by gravity, any plumbing systems in which fixtures are positioned below the level of the main sewage line will require a pump or some other means of raising the wastewater in order for it to effectively drain and exit.

Ejector Pumps in Homes

Ejector pumps are most typically seen in homes that have basement bathrooms or laundry facilities as part of the layout. A sewage ejector pump is not required in every basement, but when the municipal sewer lines leading to the street are at a lower level than the fixture, it serves to push both liquids and particles up into the sewer line, allowing it to flow correctly again. Septic drain-field systems, such as those found in rural areas where the septic drainage field or holding tank may be several stories higher than the basement plumbing fixtures, also make extensive use of ejector pumps.

This sump basin can collect and retain around 30 gallons of waste on average, which is plenty for a medium-sized home.

The wastewater is then pushed out of the basin and up to the level of the sewer or septic line, depending on the situation.

System Requirements

When installing a sewage ejector pump system, it is necessary to include a vent to help equalize pressure during pumping and to provide an exit for sewer gasses. The vent emerges from the sump pit and is either linked to an existing vent (soil stack) or goes up and through the top of the structure. The output pipe from the sewage ejector pump is typically 2 inches in diameter, and it connects to the main sewer line, which is 3 inches in diameter. There is always a check valve between the pump output point and the junction with the main sewage line to ensure that nothing leaks back into the sump basin after the wastewater has been pumped out.

When the sump basin is properly fitted, the top of the basin is completely sealed, preventing any waste or odor from escaping through the top of the basin.

Planning Considerations

Consult with your local building department before beginning any project that calls for the installation of a sewage ejector pump to ensure that your project will be approved. Different municipalities may have their own plumbing and building rules, as well as their own permission procedures. Septic or sewage line construction is likely to necessitate the acquisition of a permit, and for good reason: faulty installation can result in a major problem. Before you begin, find out what is necessary to legally install a sewage ejector pump.

  1. Before doing this repair on your own, consult with a qualified plumber for an estimate.
  2. You should also give serious consideration to the size of the ejector pump that you will want.
  3. Standard pump kits with 1/2 to 3/4 horsepower motors and 30- or 40-gallon reservoirs are generally sufficient for the normal home installation, but you should examine pricing, specs, and features to ensure that you select the system most suited for your project.
  4. This is not an installation you want to have to worry about repairing, so make sure you choose high-quality equipment that is large enough for your home.
  5. They are also available for commercial uses, however they need the use of a somewhat bigger sump basin.

All You Need to Know About Basement Drains

Image courtesy of istockphoto.com It may come as a surprise to learn that basements are more susceptible to flooding than any other portion of your house since they are below grade, that is, they are positioned below the ground’s surface. While drainage arrangements may not completely avoid the potential of flooding (yes, some do ultimately fail), they are often implemented during the building of a new home in an attempt to minimize standing water in the lower level of the house. Older homes built before construction rules mandated basement drainage are at an even greater danger of having water enter and remain in the basement for extended periods of time.

RELATED: How to Dry a Wet Basement (with Pictures) Whatever your situation—whether you’re building a new house and need to learn about your waterproofing alternatives or coping with a water problem in your present home—get the inside scoop on the drainage systems that may help prevent—and even remedy—a wet basement.

1. Exterior Drain Tile

Exterior drain tile, which is installed along the outer perimeter of a foundation, is a highly effective method of collecting groundwater and directing it away from the foundation before it can leak into your basement. After the foundation walls have been poured, the contractor will install a flexible perforated drainpipe at the bottom of each wall that will go all the way around the perimeter of the foundation. Filtering dirt out of the pipe is accomplished by placing gravel around and on top of it.

Drain tile installation is really compulsory in a number of municipalities. However, even if your municipality does not restrict it, it is a good idea to include it in the construction of your home.

THE PROS AND CONS OF EXTERIOR DRAIN TILES

  • Pro: When installed during the original building phase, it is quite affordable. It’s rather simple to gain access to the bottom of the foundation walls at that point. The contractor will factor in the cost of exterior drain tile into the cost of building the foundation, which will likely add $700 to $1,000 to the final bill in cases where it is required by code. For do-it-yourselfers, the cost of the materials alone (without the sump pump) starts at roughly $200 and goes up from there, depending on the size of the foundation. It effectively moves moisture away from the foundation, preventing it from seeping into your basement. Con:Expensive if placed after the home is built. To properly install footings, all of the earth surrounding the house must be dug to the required depth (typically eight to nine feet below grade). To have a contractor excavate around the foundation, build a collecting pit, and install the drain tile around an existing home, budget $8,000 to $15,000 (depending on the size of the foundation). Cons: If the contractor does not use enough gravel beneath, above, and around the perforated pipe, the pipe will clog over time.

2. Interior French Drains

In the beginning of a building project, it is relatively affordable to put in place. Accessing the bottom of the foundation walls is rather simple at this point. The contractor will include in the cost of outside drain tile into the cost of building the foundation, which will likely add $700 to $1,000 to the final price in places where it is required by code. For do-it-yourselfers, the cost of the materials alone (without the sump pump) starts at roughly $200 and rises from there, depending on the size of the foundation.

Pro: Cons: If placed after the home is constructed, it will be expensive.

To have a contractor excavate around the foundation, construct a collecting pit, and install the drain tile around an existing home, expect to pay $8,000 to $15,000, depending on the size of the foundation; When a contractor does not utilize enough gravel beneath, above, and around the perforated pipe, the pipe has a tendency to clog.

THE PROS AND CONS OF INTERIOR FRENCH DRAINS

  • Pro: If placed during the building of your basement, it will save you between $1,500 and $2,000 on your foundation price. Pro: Collects groundwater from beneath the basement floor and sends it to a collecting pit, where it is pushed out to the surface through a sump pump. The disadvantage of installing an inside French drain is that it will only take groundwater from beneath the basement floor. It will not prevent water from leaking through gaps in the basement walls
  • However, it will help. Installing an inside French drain in an existing basement is a time-consuming and expensive undertaking. It is necessary to break up the concrete, which entails drilling a hole through the floor and employing a jackhammer. Be prepared to pay anywhere from $7,000 to $15,000 or perhaps more, depending on the size of your basement and the thickness of the old concrete.

Image courtesy of istockphoto.com

3. Floor Drains

It is most common for floor drains to be constructed during the initial building phase, commonly in the utility area, in order to drain away surplus water from the basement. The concrete floor surrounding the drain gradually slopes towards it, allowing water to accumulate there and flow out down the drain. Most new homes built today are required to include floor drains that lead to a collection pit, from which a sump pump removes the water to the surface as needed by local codes. (Previously, residences were permitted to have floor drains that were linked to the main sewer system, but this is no longer permitted due to the possibility of sewer backup and an even more terrible flooding situation.)

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THE PROS AND CONS OF FLOOR DRAINS

  • Pro: It is absolutely necessary for collecting water from a variety of sources. A leaking hot water heater, a central air conditioner with condensation coming out of the lines, or a basement dehumidifier (which can remove up to a gallon of water per day from the humid air) are all potential sources of water damage. Pro: Because they are considered standard in new construction, you will not be charged an additional fee to have one installed if you are building a house. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to build an adequate floor drain in an existing basement. In contrast to new construction, when a concrete contractor would simply build the floor with a moderate slope toward the drain, old basement floors are often built to be level—in other words, water would not naturally flow toward the drain as it would in a new construction basement. Concrete breaking and excavation for the purpose of installing a new drain line can be expensive, with costs ranging from $5,000 to $100,000 or more depending on where the drain is located and how much concrete needs to be broken out in order to run a new line (to the collecting pit). A disadvantage is that installing a floor drain will not stop water from leaking through basement walls.

Image courtesy of istockphoto.com

Let’s Not Forget About Sump Pumps

As previously stated, each of the basement drains described above delivers water to a gathering pit, from which it must be pumped to the surface of the ground. This is where the sump pump comes in. A sump pump is an essential piece of equipment for draining water from a basement or along exterior walls, and it is available in two basic configurations: submersible and pedestal. Image courtesy of istockphoto.com

SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMPS

A submersible sump pump is installed in a collection pit that is below the level of the floor. The majority of pits are typically two feet wide and one and a half feet deep, however pits as deep as three feet can be created if groundwater is an issue in your neighborhood. A shallow pit will fill up more rapidly, forcing the pump to cycle on more frequently; but, a deeper pit will be more difficult to clean out and keep in good working order. After a particular amount of water is reached in the collecting pit (typically a few inches), the sump pump activates and pumps the water through a pipe or hose to the surface of your yard, where it may be naturally drained away.

For the pump itself (see an example on Amazon), expect to pay $100 to $400, plus an additional $600 to $1,500 in labor to have it properly installed. This amount does not include the price of building a new drainage system and any related expenses.

PEDESTAL SUMP PUMPS

Apedestal sump pumps are attached to a pole and are installed around four to eight inches above the collection pit’s level. Using a float, similar to the one found in a toilet tank, water rises with the level of the tank and then, when it reaches a particular height, the sump pump is activated, causing water to be forced to the surface. Pedestal sump pumps (see an example on Amazon) are slightly less expensive than submersible sump pumps, with prices ranging from $80 to $200. However, expert installation will add another $600 to $1,500 to the cost.

It doesn’t matter which type of pump you purchase; you must make sure that it is connected to an electrical outlet that has a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) switch installed.

Because the use of extension cords is not suggested when the outlet is located a long distance away from the pump, longer cords are required when this is the case.

It’s usually a good idea to switch off the electricity to the pump before you touch the pump or the water surrounding the pump, just to be safe.

Preventing Water from Entering the Basement

The most effective method of keeping water out of your basement is to decrease the quantity of water that seeps into it. Use these suggestions in conjunction with any sort of basement drain to help keep your basement dry and lessen the risk of flooding.

  1. 1. Clear away any foundation plants. The necessity of watering plants and shrubs near the foundation leads in saturation of the soil adjacent to the foundation, which can ultimately make its way into your basement through cracks in the foundation. 2. Grading your yard so that it slopes away from your house is important. Excavate extra dirt to elevate the soil level near the foundation on a two-percent slope (or more) away from the foundation to divert rain away from the home. 3. Install a guttering system and keep an eye on it to ensure that it does not become blocked. In order to collect rainfall from the roof and send it to drains, as well as away from your foundation, functional gutters are essential.

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Septic System Guide: How It Works and How to Maintain It

As soon as you flush the toilet in most metropolitan locations, the waste is pumped out to the nearest sewage treatment facility. Garbage is processed at this factory, which separates it into two types of waste: water that is clean enough to be dumped into a river and solids known as residual waste. The remaining material is either disposed of in landfill or utilized as fertilizer. Septic systems, which are used in places where there aren’t any sewage treatment plants, provide a similar function, but on a much smaller scale.

What are Septic Tanks and How Do They Work?

Septic tanks are normally composed of concrete or heavyweight plastic and have a capacity of 1000 to 2000 gallons, depending on the manufacturer. In the tank, there are two chambers that are divided by a portion of a wall. The waste from the residence is channeled into the bigger room. Solids sink to the bottom of the chamber, and liquids make their way through a partial wall into the smaller second chamber, which is located above it.

Anaerobic bacteria, which are found naturally in the environment, digest the solids and convert them into water, carbon dioxide, and a tiny amount of indigestible debris.

Septic Fields Distribute Liquid Effluent

Typically, septic tanks hold 1000 to 2000 gallons of water and are constructed of concrete or heavyweight plastic. A portion of the tank’s wall divides two chambers from one another. The waste from the residence is channeled into the bigger chamber for treatment and disposal. In the first chamber, solids sink to the bottom, and liquids make their way through a partial wall into the second chamber, which is smaller. Anaerobic bacteria, which are found naturally in the environment, break down the solids into water, carbon dioxide, and a tiny amount of indigestible debris.

Septic Systems Rely on Gravity, Most of the Time

The majority of septic systems rely on gravity to transfer the liquid from the home to the tank and then to the field where it will be disposed of. However, due to the slope of the land, the tank or the field may need to be higher than the house in some instances. It is necessary to have a pump, or occasionally two pumps, in order for this to operate. A grinder pump, which liquefies sediments and is installed in a pit in the basement or crawlspace of the home, will be used if the tank is higher than the house.

Sewage pumps are essentially large sump pumps that are used for heavy-duty applications.

How to Treat Your Septic System

It is not necessary to do much to keep your septic system in good working order, other than cut the grass above it and keep the drainage area free of trees and plants with roots that may block it.

How Often Do You Need to Pump A Septic Tank?

You should have a septic provider pump out the particles from your tank every two years, at the absolute least. A manhole at the surface of the tank will provide the pump operator access, but older systems may necessitate digging a hole in the tank’s top so the pumping hatch can be exposed. Unless the tank is continuously pumped, sediments will build up in it and ultimately make their way into the leach field, clogging it. You’ll know it’s occurring because untreated effluent will rise to the surface of the tank and back up into the home, causing it to overflow.

Pumping the tank on a regular basis can ensure that the leach fields continue to work eternally.

What to Do if Your Septic System Fails

Pumps in a pumped septic system will ultimately fail, just as they will in any mechanical system. Most pumps are equipped with an alarm that sounds when the effluent level in the pit is greater than it should be, indicating that the pump has failed and has to be replaced. This is a job that should be left to the professionals. Visit the following website to locate a trusted list of installation and septic system service companies in your area:

  • The National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association’s Septic Locator
  • The National Association of Wastewater Technicians
  • And the National Association of Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association

It is rare for a homeowner to have to worry about their septic system because it is well-maintained and doesn’t cause problems. Simple maintenance, such as keeping the tank pumped and the lawn trimmed, should result in decades of trouble-free service.

What kind of protection do you have in place for your home’s systems and appliances against unforeseen maintenance needs? If this is the case, you might consider purchasing a house warranty.

  • Home Warranty Coverage for Roof Leaks
  • Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs
  • And more. Plans for protecting your mobile home’s warranty
  • What Is Home Repair Insurance and How Does It Work? How to Find the Most Reasonably Priced Home Appliance Insurance

Why is My Basement Drain Backing Up?

Identifying the root cause of your basement drain back up requires a lot of guesswork because the root causes are usually located in the deep, dark recesses of your drain lines.Simple DIY cleaning and repairs may alleviate minor issues, but more serious issues require professional inspection and repair.The following are some of the most common causes of basement drain back ups. While some issues may be resolved with a simple remedy, others may need the use of more specialized tools and experience in order to properly diagnose and repair the problem.

Causes of Basement Drain Backups

Showers, bathtubs, and toilets located in your basement are the most likely places where you will discover a backlog. These low-lying plumbing fittings, on the other hand, are not always the source of the problem. Do not attempt to repair the backup until you are certain that there is a blockage in one of these fixtures. The origin of the problem is most likely located farther down the drain system.

Wash Tub Basin

If you are suffering a drain backlog in your basement, it is possible that your wash tub basin or laundry tub is the source of the problem. A simple solution may be to clean the strainer on the drain intake, which you can accomplish yourself in a matter of minutes. Using a plunger to empty the silt and debris from the trap beneath the basin may be necessary when it becomes blocked. In this case, a snake may be necessary, or the trap may need to be removed and well cleaned. Using their tools and expertise, a professional plumber can clear clogs that are further down the system without causing any additional damage to your plumbing.

Washing Machine

Washing machine backups waste a lot of water, but they are usually simple to repair. Check the strainer on the drain line after you have turned off the washing machine. Remove any obstructions that may have formed before reattaching. If this does not resolve the problem, it is possible that there is a clog in the trap or deeper down the drain. If cleaning the trap does not work, it is recommended to consult with a specialist, just as it is with the wash tub basin.

Main House Trap

Main house traps are fixtures in the main drain line that prevent sewage gases from leaking into your home. They are located in the main drain line. This arrangement consists of two plugs: one at the home end of the line and another at the street end of the line. It is not advisable to remove these plugs at random since doing so may result in sewage effluent entering your home. In addition, reinstalling the plugs is exceedingly difficult due to the tight fit. As an alternative, you can open (without removing) the street-side plug first, followed by the house-end plug, allowing the backup to drain away from your property.

Floor Drain

In your basement, the floor drain connects to the house drain, which is located underneath the floor drain. Because it’s purpose is to drain excess water from your basement, it tends to stay quite dry most of the time. Clogs and excessive rainwater, on the other hand, may cause the drain to back up.

The obstruction in the drain, the house trap, or the sewer main might be caused by a clog in any of these places. Contact an experienced sewage specialist if the clog cannot be readily cleared. A sewer technician will analyze the source and location of the obstruction and make recommendations.

Calling in a Professional

Drain obstructions that are not properly investigated might result in further difficulties and even damage to your drain pipes. Leave the diagnosis to the pros, who will do a visual check of your basement drains using a high-tech camera snake to ensure that everything is working properly. They will then be able to clean out the obstructions and make any required repairs. Using camera systems, Peak Sewers Underground Services is able to give our clients with precise and thorough information on drain blockages and backups.

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Clogged Drain or Clogged Septic Tank?

Robs Septicon is the author of this piece. Postings under Uncategorised A blocked septic tank can cause difficulties that are quite similar to those caused by a clogged drain. Knowing the difference between the two might assist you in taking care of your house. Here’s all you need to know about the situation. When a septic tank overflows, why do drains become clogged? The septic tank is a holding tank that is located underground. All of the wastewater from the house flows into the septic tank, which steadily fills up with garbage over time.

  • Towards the top of the tank, there is a pipe that flows into the yard, into an area known as the drain field, where the tank is located.
  • The dirt filters the water and kills the bacteria that are there.
  • It is possible for the septic tank to fill up without any water draining out if the line feeding into the drain field becomes plugged.
  • As the water rises via the main line, the capacity of fixtures in the house to drain correctly diminishes.
  • The drains will become sluggish if the septic tank is just half blocked, as the water strains to make its way down into the septic tank.
  • What Are the Signs of a Septic Tank Clog?
  • It might be difficult to detect the difference at times.
See also:  What Will Kill A Septic Tank? (TOP 5 Tips)

Due to the fact that they are the most closely associated with the septic tank, the lower drains in the home will be affected first when the septic tank overflows.

In addition to being more sluggish, they may begin to produce unusual noises, such as gurgling sounds, as they age.

Local clogs often only impact a single fixture or a small number of fixtures that are linked to it.

If all of the other fixtures in the house are operating properly, this is an indicator that there is a blockage in the house rather than in the septic tank itself.

A blockage in a septic tank should not be repaired by someone who has just rudimentary expertise or who lacks the necessary instruments.

In certain cases, you may be able to address the problem yourself if you suspect that the blockage is in the pipe rather than in the septic tank.

Allow for an hour or two for the mixture to settle in the pipe before using it.

Depending on how large the blockage is, this may be sufficient to empty the pipe.

An auger is made out of a long, rigid cable with a pointed, twisting end at the other end.

A plumber may be required if neither of these approaches proves effective in clearing the clog from the drain.

Chemical drain cleaners have the potential to harm beneficial microorganisms in your septic tank, which might lead to another clog in the future.

Clogs in septic tanks can arise for a number of different causes.

Many septic tanks require pumping every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank.

Exactly What Should You Do If You Suspect You Have a Septic Tank Issue?

An inspection by a septic tank firm will allow them to determine whether or not the tank needs to be drained.

Rob’s Septic Tanks, Inc. can provide you with additional information about clogs and septic tanks. We’ll be happy to answer any questions you have and provide you with additional information.

A Beginner’s Guide to Septic Systems

  • Septic systems are used to dispose of waste from homes and buildings. Identifying the location of the septic tank and drainfield
  • What a Septic System Is and How It Works Keeping a Septic System in Good Condition
  • Signs that a septic system is failing include:

Septic systems, also known as on-site wastewater management systems, are installed in a large number of buildings and houses. It is easy to lose sight of septic systems, which operate quietly, gracefully, and efficiently to protect human and environmental health due to their burying location. Septic systems are the norm in rural regions, but they may also be found in a lot of metropolitan places, especially in older buildings. It is critical to understand whether or not your building is on a septic system.

Is Your Home or Building on a Septic System?

It is possible that the solution to this question will not be evident. If a structure looks to be connected to a sewage system, it may instead be connected to a septic system. It is fairly unusual for tenants to be unaware of the final destination of the wastewater generated by their residence. Some of the hints or signs listed below will assist in determining whether the facility is served by a septic system or whether it is supplied by a sewer system:

  • Sewer service will be provided at a cost by the city or municipality. Pay close attention to the water bill to see whether there is a cost labeled “sewer” or “sewer charge” on it. If there is a fee for this service, it is most likely because the facility is connected to a sewage system. Look up and down the street for sewage access ports or manholes, which can be found in any location. If a sewage system runs in front of a property, it is probable that the house is connected to it in some way. Inquire with your neighbors to see if they are connected to a sewer or septic system. The likelihood that your home is on a sewer system is increased if the properties on each side of you are on one as well. Keep in mind, however, that even if a sewage line runs in front of the structure and the nearby residences are connected to a sewer system, your home or building may not be connected to one. If the structure is older than the sewer system, it is possible that it is still on the original septic system. Consult with your local health agency for further information. This agency conducts final inspections of septic systems to ensure that they comply with applicable laws and regulations. There is a possibility that they have an archived record and/or a map of the system and will supply this information upon request

All property owners should be aware of whether or not their property is equipped with an on-site wastewater treatment system. Georgia law mandates that the property owner is responsible for the correct operation of a septic system, as well as any necessary maintenance and repairs.

Locating the Septic Tank and Drainfield

Finding a septic system can be a difficult process. They can be buried anywhere in the yard, including the front, back, and side yards. After a few years, the soil may begin to resemble the surrounding soil, making it impossible to distinguish the system from the surrounding soil. It is possible that in dry weather, the grass will be dryer in the shallow soil over the tank and greener over the drainfield, where the cleansed water will be released, but this is not always the case, especially in hot weather.

  • The contractor who built the house should have presented the initial owner with a map showing the tank and drainfield locations, according to the building code.
  • The installation of the system, as well as any modifications made to it, would have been examined by your local health authority.
  • Unfortunately, if the system is very old, any records related with it may be insufficient or nonexistent, depending on the situation.
  • Look for the point at where the wastewater pipes join together if the building is on a crawlspace or has an unfinished basement.
  • The sewer line that runs through the structure is referred to as the building sewer.
  • To “feel” for the tank, use a piece of re-bar or a similar metal probe.
  • If you use this free service, you may avoid accidentally putting a rod through your gas or water line.

Try to locate the tank after a rainstorm, when the metal probe will be more easily maneuvered through moist dirt.

This should be done with care; extreme caution should be exercised to avoid puncturing the building sewer.

A tank is normally 5 by 8 feet in size, however the dimensions might vary.

Be aware that there may be rocks, pipes, and other debris in the area that “feels” like the tank but is not in fact part of the tank.

However, it is possible to have the lid or access port positioned on a riser in addition to being on the same level as the top of the tank in some cases.

Once the tank has been identified, make a rough drawing of its placement in relation to the house so that it will not be misplaced again!

It may be easier to discover the drainage lines now that the tank has been identified, particularly if the area has been subjected to prolonged periods of drought.

How a Septic System Works

Typical sewage treatment system (figure 1). It is composed of three components (Figure 1): the tank, the drain lines or discharge lines, and the soil treatment area (also known as the soil treatment area) (sometimes called a drainfield or leach field). The size of the tank varies according to the size of the structure. The normal home (three bedrooms, two bathrooms) will often include a 1,000-gallon water storage tank on the premises. Older tanks may only have one chamber, however newer tanks must have two chambers.

  • The tank functions by settling waste and allowing it to be digested by microbes.
  • These layers include the bottom sludge layer, the top scum layer, and a “clear” zone in the center.
  • A typical septic tank is seen in Figure 2.
  • It is fortunate that many of the bacteria involved are found in high concentrations in the human gastrointestinal tract.
  • Although the bacteria may break down some of the stuff in the sludge, they are unable to break down all of it, which is why septic tanks must be cleaned out every three to seven years.
  • In addition, when new water is introduced into the septic tank, an equal volume of water is pushed out the discharge lines and onto the drainfield.
  • The water trickles out of the perforated drain pipes, down through a layer of gravel, and into the soil below the surface (Figure 3).
  • A typical drainfield may be found here.
  • Plants, bacteria, fungus, protozoa, and other microorganisms, as well as bigger critters such as mites, earthworms, and insects, flourish in soil.
  • Mineralogical and metallic elements attach to soil particles, allowing them to be removed from the waste water.

Maintaining a Septic System

The most typical reason for a septic system to fail is a lack of proper maintenance. Septic systems that are failing are expensive to repair or replace, and the expense of repairs rests on the shoulders of the property owner (Figure 4). Fortunately, keeping your septic system in good working order and avoiding costly repairs is rather simple. Figure 4. Septic system failure is frequently caused by a lack of proper maintenance. It is in your best interests to be aware of the location of the system, how it operates, and how to maintain it.

  • You should pump the tank if you aren’t sure when the last time it was pumped.
  • It is not permissible to drive or park over the tank or drainage field.
  • No rubbish should be disposed of in the sink or the toilet.
  • It’s important to remember that garbage disposals enhance the requirement for regular pumping.
  • When designing a landscape, keep the septic system in mind.
  • It is also not recommended to consume veggies that have been cultivated above drainfield lines (see Dorn, S.
  • Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields.

C 1030).

Any water that enters your home through a drain or toilet eventually ends up in your septic system.

Don’t put too much strain on the system by consuming a large amount of water in a short period of time.

Additives should not be used.

Various types of additives are available for purchase as treatment options, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenator and boosters, among other things.

To break up oil and grease and unclog drains, chemical additives are available for purchase.

Pumping out the septic tank is not eliminated or reduced by using one of these systems.

They remain floating in the water and travel into the drainfield, where they may block the pipes. Acids have the potential to damage concrete storage tanks and distribution boxes.

Signs a Septic System is Failing

A failed system manifests itself in the following ways:

  • Sinks and toilets drain at a snail’s pace
  • Plumbing that is backed up
  • The sound of gurgling emanating from the plumbing system House or yard aromas that smell like sewage
  • In the yard, there is wet or squishy dirt
  • Water that is gray in hue that has accumulated
  • An region of the yard where the grass is growing more quickly and is becoming greener
  • Water contaminated by bacteria from a well

If you notice any of these indicators, you should notify your local health department immediately. An environmentalist from the health department can assist in identifying possible hazards. There are also lists of state-certified contractors available from the local health department, who can perform repairs. Repairs or alterations to the system must be approved by the health department and examined by an inspector. Please make every effort to be there when your health department inspector and a contractor meet in order to discuss repairs to your system.

  • Household garbage that has not been properly handled is released into the environment when systems fail.
  • It has the potential to pollute surrounding wells, groundwater, streams, and other sources of potable water, among other things.
  • The foul odor emanating from a malfunctioning system can cause property values to plummet.
  • Briefly stated, broken systems can have an impact on your family, neighbors, community, and the environment.
  • Septic systems are an efficient, elegant, and reasonably priced method of treating and disposing of wastewater.

Figures 2 and 3 reprinted with permission from: CIDWT. 2009. Installation of Wastewater Treatment Systems. Consortium of Institutes for Decentralized Wastewater Treatment. Iowa State University, Midwest Plan Service. Ames, IA.

Please call your local health department if any of these indicators are observed. Environmental specialists from the health department can assist with the identification of potentially hazardous situations. Local health departments also maintain lists of state-certified contractors who are available to carry out repair work if needed. Health department approval and inspection are required before any repairs or alterations are made to the system. Please make every effort to be there when your health department inspector and a contractor meet in order to discuss repairs to your system.

Household garbage that has not been properly handled is released into the environment when systems malfunction.

The contamination of surrounding wells, groundwater, streams, and other sources of drinking water is a serious threat to the public health.

Real estate prices might be affected by the foul smell emanating from a faulty system.

Briefly stated, broken systems can have negative consequences for your family, neighbors, community, and environment.

On the other hand, a well functioning and well-maintained system is essential.

Septic systems are an efficient, attractive, and reasonably priced method for treating and disposing of wastewater. They can safeguard and preserve both public and environmental health for many years if they are properly maintained.

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