What Is Code For Septic Tank Risers? (Question)

What is a septic tank riser?

  • A Septic Tank Riser is a plastic or concrete piece of pipe that is installed from the top of the Septic Tank Pump-Out or Access Port to the surface. Older septic tanks were often installed without a riser meaning their access ports were underground and required digging of the topsoil for access.

Should septic tank riser be above ground?

Landscaping Around Septic Tank Risers However, septic tank risers should never be buried. Instead, they should be 2 inches above final grade to prevent groundwater from entering the system.

How many septic tank risers do I need?

A single riser is required for accessing the pump chamber for this type of system. If you don’t have two additional risers, you should locate your septic tank and install risers for both the inlet and outlet openings, as described above.

Does my septic need a riser?

Your septic system is one of the most important mechanical systems in your home. With a one-time installation fee, a septic tank riser will protect your septic system for years to come. The quick access for maintenance and pumping will almost immediately provide a return on your investment.

How high are septic risers?

Tank risers are typically installed about 3 inches above grade. Having the lid above grade will make it easy to find, however, some people will choose to have the lid just a couple of inches below grade so that is easier to mow over and less visible.

How much weight can a septic tank riser lid hold?

The 24-inch solid fiberglass DuraFiber riser lid from Orenco Systems has a flat-style lip for PVC and HDPE pipe. It weighs 10 pounds, but resists damage from lawn equipment and can withstand a 20,000-pound load.

How do you measure for a septic tank riser?

Measure the diameter of the manhole cover: If 26-29 inches, the riser will fit down into the tank opening. Measure the distance from ground to the top of the septic tank and ADD 3 inches. If more than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with 22-inch hole in the center) is needed.

Do they make square risers for septic tanks?

The Polylok square riser adapter ring is designed to connect the Polylok septic tank risers or lids to an existing concrete tank with large square or round openings.

How many lids are on a septic tank?

In order to make repairs or perform regular maintenance or cleaning/pumping of the tank, access must be provided. There are usually two lids located at the top of the septic tank-one located over the inlet “T” and one located over the outlet “T” (see “Septic Components: Septic Tanks”).

What is an access riser?

Orenco® PVC Access Risers provide access to tanks and components in water and wastewater systems. They can be cast into the tops of concrete tanks, bonded to a concrete or fiberglass tank with epoxy, or bolted to a concrete tank with an adapter and bolt-down kit.

How do you hide a septic tank riser?

The easiest way to hide your septic riser is by simply placing something over it, such as a hollow, lightweight landscape rock, a birdbath, a sundial or a decorative lawn ornament. Apply basic landscaping principles when deciding what to use.

How wide are septic tank lids?

During the search, keep an eye out for a circular lid approximately two feet wide. Septic tank lids are typically green or black plastic; sometimes they are made of concrete. It’s not always easy to find the lid, though, as unkempt grass, dirt, or debris can conceal the septic tank lid.

Do old septic tanks have lids?

If your septic tank was installed after 1975, it will probably have two polyethylene or fiberglass lids centered at opposite sides of the perimeter. Older tanks will typically have a 24-inch concrete lid right in the center of the tank. Excavate in those locations to reveal the lids.

13.02.040 Septic Tank Requirements.

13.02.040 Requirements for a septic tank. A. Septic Tank Design and Construction. Standard PS-1 of the International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials specifies that septic tanks must be made of reinforced concrete, fiberglass, or another durable, corrosion-resistant synthetic material, and that they must comply to this standard (IAPMO). Tanks made of metal or wood are not permitted. B. The structural integrity of the septic tank Installed under surfaces prone to automotive activity (e.g., driveways and vehicle turnarounds) or with more than three feet of ground cover, septic tanks must be designed to withstand the increased weight.

The installation of a septic tank.

The earth cover over the tank must be devoid of trash and rock, and it must be clean fill material.

1.

  • 2.
  • The top of a septic tank must be deeper than one foot from grade if it is proved that this is necessary.
  • All connections should be waterproofed with a suitable sealant and/or interlocking mechanism that has been approved by the administrative authority.
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • (Order No.

Installing Access Risers

In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below.

Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.

A few safety tips before you get started:

  • Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website
  • Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.

Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need

It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the internet. PVC risers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some of the brand names you might be familiar with include “Tuf-Tite,” “Polylok,” and “Orenco.” Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening without difficulty. Due to the fact that certain tanks have square openings, it might be difficult to fit a riser around the square entrance.

Some types of risers are made to order based on the height you want, while others are available in increments of 6-12 inches.

Then purchase an Adapter and Risers that are somewhat bigger in diameter than the hole.

See below for Step 4 on attaching risers to the tank entrance.

  1. Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)
  2. Riser Adapter Ring Kit
  3. Butyl Rope
  4. Risers
  5. Domed Lid OR Flat Lid
  6. Stainless Steel Screws

The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):

  1. As-built condition of the sewage treatment system The following items are required: sketch on paper, measuring tape, shovel, probing instrument, eye protection, and work gloves.

To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:

  1. Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws
  2. Raspor file
  3. Marking pen
  4. Tape measure
  5. Drill with a 1/4″ bit

Materials required to seal the risers to the tank include:

  1. High-strength concrete patch mix
  2. A small bucket
  3. A mixing stick
  4. And gloves

Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.

Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)

When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.

Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.

The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.

Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.

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Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)

Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you generate a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).

  • You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.
  • Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
  • When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
  • Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).
  • If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
  • Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
  • Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.
  • Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
  • Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.

You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.

Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings

In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:

  • Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.

The distance between the ground and the top of the fiberglass plate should be measured. You may choose to place the risers so that they are level with the surface of the ground, or you may want them to stand out a few inches above the ground (if a riser is above ground make sure you are careful when mowing). Tips: To shorten a big riser with ribs, drill a 1/4-inch hole between the ribs above the cut line and finish the cut by following one of the grooves between the ribs with a saber/jig saw to finish the cut.

By eliminating one of the ribs from the largeriser, it may be made to fit more snugly into a smaller manhole entrance.

Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

  • Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
  • NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.
  • The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
  • If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
  • Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.
  • A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.

Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.

Section 905

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check for structural integrity and watertightness. For major problems with the tank it is preferable to replace it with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the package. A permit from the local health department is required when replacing a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by wiping it down. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s specifications.

  1. Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names that are used.
  2. NOTE: For optimal results, use only a tiny amount of concrete patch at a time.
  3. The patch mix should be used to seal the riser from the septic tank.
  4. If you want to avoid a safety danger, be sure to securely fasten theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
  5. When using smaller risers for the inlet or outlet ports, abrasive sandpaper should be used on the bottom few inches of the riser to make a stronger binding.
  6. A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks can be found from your local hardware store where you purchased the risers.
  7. This documentation would not have been possible without the assistance ofThurston County Environmental Health.

9-4-7: SEPTIC TANKS (IDPH SECTION 905.40):

The IDPH Section 905.40, SEPTIC TANKS, is dated 9-4-7. A. Approval of Septic Tanks: Manufacturers of prefabricated septic tanks are required to submit to the government for approval a set of blueprints for each size and configuration of septic tank they produce. Detailed plans must be drawn to scale and include all necessary dimensions, baffles, tees, cleanouts, and material specification information. When the designs are judged to be in compliance with the standards of this chapter, the department will provide a formal approval for each size tank in question.

The department will assign an approval number to every manufacturer for each series of authorized septic tanks, and it will keep a list of the approved manufacturers and approved septic tank series in its possession.

The tank shall be marked with the manufacturer’s approval number and the liquid capacity of the tank, in gallons, which shall be prominently displayed on the outside end wall of the tank above, or next to, the outlet pipe so that this information is readily visible after installation and before covering the tank with a cover.

The following information regarding each septic tank or aerobic treatment plant that is sold or delivered in or into the state of Illinois must be recorded by anyone who manufactures, sells, offers for sale, or delivers septic tanks or aerobic treatment plants in or into the state of Illinois.

  1. the name of the purchaser or property owner (if different); the location of delivery (county and address, legal description, or driving instructions); the date of sale and delivery; and the size and model of the septic tank or aerobic unit.
  2. It must also be protected against excessive corrosion, decay, or frost damage.
  3. Tanks must be built and constructed in such a way that they will not collapse or rupture when subjected to expected earth and hydrostatic pressures, regardless of whether the tanks are filled or empty.
  4. If there is a possibility of greater loading, the tank should be reinforced to meet the additional loading.
  5. a.
  6. b.Precast reinforced concrete (also known as precast concrete).
  7. e.Fiberglass reinforced with steel.

5.Inlet and outlet connections:a.The invert elevation of the inlet shall be at least two inches (2″) above the liquid level in the tank.b.The invert elevation of the outlet shall be at least two inches (2″) above the liquid level in the tank.

Sixth, baffles: Septic tank baffles must comply with the following specifications: a.Inlet baffles must be supplied, and they must extend at least six inches (6″) below the surface of the liquid they are intended to protect.

It is required that the baffles at the inlet and outflow of the tank have a clearance of at least one inch (1″) but not more than three inches (3″) of open space between the underside of the tank lid and the baffles.

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et cetera Extending the distance between the outlet end wall and the baffles is not permitted to exceed six inches (6″).

Baffles of the “V” or semicircular kind must be installed so that their sides fit closely against the tank’s end wall.

Baffles are not required at the inlets and outlets of submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees, provided that all of the above-mentioned distances and depths are maintained.

When utilized as inlet baffles, submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees must have a diameter of at least six inches (6″) in diameter.

k.Submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees must meet the requirements of ASTM 2661, ASTM 2665, or ASTM 3034, or ASTM 2751, provided that the pipe does not have an SDR (standard dimension ratio) greater than 35.l.Submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees must meet the requirements of ASTM 2661, ASTM 2665, or ASTM 3034, or ASTM 2751, provided that the pipe does When submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees are used as baffles, it is the duty of the septic tank manufacturer to ensure that the components are installed in the right place during the initial installation of the septic tank.

  1. m.
  2. This baffle’s function is to divert rising gas bubbles away from the outlet structure and toward the inside of the tank.
  3. An illustration may be found in Appendix A, illustration E, and exhibit C in this chapter.
  4. The septic tank filter baffle must be fitted in such a way that it extends or suspends to a depth equal to forty percent (40%) of the liquid level within the tank.
  5. 7.Accessibility: Accessibility over the tank’s inlet and exit must be given in order to permit inspection and cleaning.
  6. A waterproof seal and a long-lasting material are required for the rigging.
  7. This riser must bring access over the inlet and outlet to within twelve inches (12″) of the ground surface if the tank’s top is more than twelve inches (12″) below the ground surface.

It is required that the central aperture of a two-compartment tank have access given within twelve (12) inches (12″) of the ground surface if the tank has an entrance above the wall between the compartments.

For any facility other than a residence, septic tanks must be sized in accordance with the estimated flow indicated in appendix A, illustration A of this chapter, and in accordance with the requirements of subsection C2 of this section.

When the flow rate exceeds five hundred (500) gallons per day, the volume must be at least one and one-half (1 1/2) times the projected daily sewage flow, unless otherwise specified.

Tanks or Compartments in a Multiple-Tank or Compartment: Multiple compartment septic tanks or multiple septic tanks in series are needed to have a capacity of one-half (1/2) to two-thirds (2/3) of the total required capacity when more than one compartment or tank is employed.

2.The wall dividing the compartments must be as close as possible to the tank lid, with a free vent space equivalent to the cross sectional area of the house sewer.

4.The depth of the aperture between compartments to the invert of the opening between compartments should be forty percent (40%) of the total liquid depth.

An impervious material that is not susceptible to corrosion or decay should be used in the construction of this baffle.

The septic tank filter baffle must be fitted in such a way that it extends or suspends to a depth equal to forty percent (40%) of the liquid level within the tank.

6.For a two-compartment tank, openings with a minimum dimension of eighteen inches (18″) must be located over the tank’s inlet and outlet, or twelve inch (12″) openings must be located over the tank’s inlet and outlet.

“Level” should be defined as one-half inch (1/2″) in any direction, plus or minus one-half inch (1/2″).

2.If the inlet, outlet, or access ports are to be located at or below the seasonal high water table, all openings in the tank must be sealed waterproof using mastic, tar, silicone caulk, or other suitable water-proofing material.

A full pumping of abandoned treatment units is required.

A break or crumble in the floor and walls of the tank will prevent it from holding water, and the tank will be filled with sand or dirt to prevent it from holding water.

Upon removal of the tank from the earth, the excavation area must be completely filled with dirt. (Source: 37 Ill. Reg. 14994, effective August 28, 2013; amended at 37 Ill. Reg. 14994). (Order No. 15-961, dated April 14, 2015)

Septic Tanks Risers- Bring Your Access To Ground Level

Getting a little tired of having to dig up your yard every time your septic tank needs to be pumped out or serviced? Are you getting tired of dealing with incredibly hefty concrete lids? It appears that you are in need of septic tank risers in order to bring your access down to ground level! Our septic tank risers and covers are constructed of high-quality, heavy-duty polyethylene plastic, which makes them extremely sturdy and durable while also being lightweight and simple to handle.

THE POLYLOK ADVANTAGE

Septic tank risers are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the current market. We believe our Polylok septic tank risers are the best money can buy in terms of quality. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:

FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS

The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight! Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser section.

INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS

Once the hole has been backfilled, the structural ribs in the Polylok septic tank risers are inserted inside around each riser piece, providing them with tremendous strength and allowing them to maintain their shape under the pressure of the earth being pressed on them. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.

LIDS WITH HANDLES

The access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise maintained. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.

LARGE ADAPTER RING

An adapter ring is required in order to properly install septic tank risers on your septic tank. We have one of the largest adapter rings available on the market, allowing you to cover up to a 25″ square or 27″ circular aperture with a Polylok adapter ring. This ring fits both 20″ and 24″ risers, allowing you to have a great deal of versatility no matter what size your opening happens to be!

GET OUT YOUR MEASURING STICK!

A few measures must be taken before purchasing a septic tank riser system in order to ensure proper installation. The first thing to consider is the size of your opening. Take a measurement of the aperture in your septic tank at its widest point to determine the size of your tank. Instead than measuring the present lid, it’s critical to measure the opening. Because you will be removing the present cover, the measurements of the lid are no longer important and may differ from the size of the aperture itself.

The second measurement will be the distance between the top of the septic tank and the surface of the ground. You are now prepared to make a purchase based on these two measures!

THE COMPLETE RISER SYSTEM

We have a large selection of components from which you may pick to create your own own full riser system. Our many various options offer our product the adaptability to be utilized in virtually any application, but they may also be a bit daunting when attempting to pick which components to buy for a certain application. Each component is discussed in further depth below.

ADAPTER RINGS

The adapter ring is the first component that you’ll need to put together in order to assemble a full riser system. The adapter ring attaches directly to the septic tank, allowing the risers to stack, lock, and mount to it without the need for any additional hardware. Having this component is critical since the risers are not flat on the bottom because they are meant to be stackable, and it is not feasible to install them straight to the septic tank without this piece. The adapter ring provides the flat surface you need to mount to the tank while also being able to accommodate the stackable risers that are included with the tank.

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Our square tank adapter ring can accommodate big square apertures up to 25 inches in diameter and large round openings up to 27 inches in diameter.

They are intended to be used with openings that are 24″ or less in diameter.

Concrete anchors, a masonry bit for installing the anchors, and butyl sealer are all included in this set.

RISERS

Following your selection of the adapter ring, it is time to go shopping for risers. The Polylok risers are available in two heights: 6″ and 12″, as well as in two diameters: 24″ and 20″. Stackable, each unit has a gasket that has been fitted as well as stainless steel screws to allow for easy installation. Determine which risers will work best for your application based on the height measurement you made between the septic tank and ground level.

OPTIONAL SAFETY SCREEN

In addition to the 20″ and 24″ riser systems, Polylok also produces safety screens that fit within the riser systems. These screens serve as a supplementary layer of protection in the event that the riser cover is unintentionally damaged or removed, and they keep foreign objects from entering the septic tank. They also keep dogs from slipping into unprotected septic tank openings!

RISER LIDS

You will require a lid to complete your riser system, which is the final component you will require. Both the 20″ and 24″ riser systems may be used with the Polylok lids, which are available in two different types to suit your needs. For ease of access, the basic lid is equipped with handles and a gasket that has been factory placed, as well as stainless steel screws to keep it in place. These lids are strong enough to withstand foot traffic as well as the weight of a riding lawn mower driving across them.

Stainless steel screws are included for installation.

Installations below grade or in regions with a high volume of foot traffic are advised for the heavy-duty lids.

The shipping of these items in large boxes necessitates the addition of additional time, materials, and UPS shipping fees.

SIMPLY ADD THE ITEMS TO YOUR SHOPPING CART AND THEN CHECK YOUR SHIPPING COST. If you place your order before 2 PM CST, you will be able to get your order sent the same day you placed it.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered!

WILL THE LID FIT DIRECTLY ON THE ADAPTER RING OR DO I NEED TO USE A RISER?

Here is a list of some of the most commonly asked questions that our customer support representatives are requested to respond to. Please have a peek below; you could find the answers to some of your queries.

CAN I CUT THE RISER SYSTEM DOWN TO A SPECIFIC HEIGHT?

No, the Polylok riser system is available in increments of 6″ and 12″, and it cannot be customized to a certain height. Cutting the riser will result in the lid not being adequately secured on the riser that has been cut down.

DO I BRING THE RISER SYSTEM JUST BELOW, AT, OR ABOVE GRADE?

It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade. Because the riser system is airtight and watertight, there is no danger in moving it up to or above grade level.

SHOULD I USE THE STANDARD OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?

If you want the riser system up to grade, you may either raise it up above grade or leave it slightly below grade. Because the riser system is airtight and watertight, there is no danger in raising it up to or above grade.

The benefits of septic tank risers

Installing septic tank access risers will save you money as well as your back. Accessing the septic tank is made simple by the use of rippers. | Photo courtesy of the Michigan State University College of Agriculture and Natural Resources The process of finding and pulling up the lid to your septic tank may be time-consuming and frustrating. In many cases, homeowners aren’t even sure where to begin their search for the lid to their septic tank. Some people are just unable to pull themselves out of a hole.

  1. What method do individuals use to locate the buried treasure that is their septic tank lid?
  2. Others look for a clue, such as a dead spot of grass or other visual signals, to help them find their way.
  3. Whatever way you choose, digging it out is still necessary, and if the correct location cannot be discovered, another hole must be excavated.
  4. Some counties, such as Kalamazoo, Oakland, and Otsego, mandate that septic tank access risers be erected; these are just a few examples.
  5. Contact your Michigan County to find out about the most recent onsite waste water rules that apply to you.
  6. A septic tank riser is a pipe that can be built of plastic, fiberglass, or concrete to carry waste away from the tank.
  7. The lid is then either left uncovered or covered with a very thin layer of soil and grass, depending on the preference of the gardener.

It goes without saying that any modifications to your septic tank or system will need to be approved by your county environmental health department or another qualified inspector.

You may arrange the installation of a riser in your septic system to coincide with your usual septic system maintenance schedule.

It is also possible that having a riser in place will dramatically lower the overall cost of septic tank maintenance over time, owing to the increased ease of access and reduced time spent on the operation.

MSU Extension Educator Beth Clawson can provide further information on the onsite waste water systems you may be interested in.

The Michigan Department of Natural Resources has a team of natural resources educators working to provide aquatic invasive species instructional programming and support throughout the state.

You can reach out to an educator using MSU Extension’s ” Find an Expert ” search engine by searching for “Natural Resources Water Quality” in the keywords field. Resources:

Did you find this article to be informative?

You Might Also Be Interested In

Are you fed up with having to dig up your septic system every time it has to be repaired or serviced? If this describes you, we have a fantastic option for you. In order to modify the way you operate on your septic system, you may require a suitable septic riser, which can be found online.

Why choose Tuf Tite Risers?

The Tuf Tite Septic Riser System allows you to get access to your outside septic system in a quick and simple manner. With the help of this revolutionary instrument, septic system service becomes a snap, and you will never have to dig up your septic system again! This system eliminates any guessing by providing you with the riser and other components you require to complete the task. Because you are ordering all of the essential parts in a single package, you will save both time and money on the installation process.

What are the Tuf Tite Product Specs?

Every riser system is simple to install on concrete septic tank lids, and the kit will even tell you what size access hole will work best with your septic system based on the information in the kit. The riser system is effective on 95 percent of septic systems with round diameter entrances ranging from 16 inches or less to 25 inches or less, and square sizes ranging from 11 inches by 11 inches to 18 inches by 18 inches. Looking for high-quality products? Look no further than this store! There are several sizes available for the Tuf Tite riser system, which has been engineered to last.

Septic tanks are normally installed below the surface of the earth.

Installing a riser kit is the most effective approach to deal with this issue.

When the riser comes into contact with the tank, an adapter ring should be used to seal the connection.

A number of risers will be stacked on top of each other and the adapter ring until they reach the ground level, at which point they will be removed.

This method will establish a barrier around the tank, protecting it from contamination while also making access to the tank more convenient.

In order to ensure that the circular riser will fit around your square or rectangular access port, there are a few things you may do.

The diagonal distance across the access will be the longest distance that a riser will have to cover before it may be used.

Assume that “a” is the length of one side of the port’s access.

For example, A is 12 inches in length and B is 12 inches in length.

The equations shown above can be used to estimate the diagonal distance of a rectangle in a rectangular coordinate system.

The only risers that should be utilized are those having an inner diameter that is bigger than the diagonal distance between the access port and the wall.

This approach will need the knowledge of the lengths of each side of your rectangular access port in order to work. Pythagorean theorem is something you may remember from your geometry training.

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