What Did They Use For Septic Tank Lines Back In 1970? (Best solution)

• In the 1960s, precast concrete tanks became more prevalent as the standard of practice improved. Most tanks were still single compartment 750, 1,000 or 1,200-gallon tanks, usually depending on the size of the house. In the 1970s, the standards of practice again improved and 1,000 and 1,200-gallon two-compartment tanks became the standard.

What type of pipe is used for septic systems?

Corrugated pipe is typically used for drain fields. Septic systems use drain fields to treat the septic tank effluent for the removal of impurities and contaminants. The field is made up of trenches typically containing washed “drainrock” or gravel.

How did old septic systems work?

Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The solids settle to the bottom, where microorganisms decompose them. The middle layer of effluent exits the tank and travels through underground perforated pipes into the drainage field.

What are old septic systems called?

The original pit remained as the part of the system that returned “clarified” wastewater to the ground. It now became known as a drywell. Sometimes due to heavy use, poor soil conditions, age of the system or a combination of these factors, the drywell still plugged up.

When were leach fields invented?

John Mouras is credited for inventing the septic tank system on or around the year 1860.

What are leach lines made of?

Leach pipes are usually made of perforated PVC pipe. To encourage the final product to trickle into the soil, the pipes are bedded in gravel and sand or sometimes are covered with plastic septic chambers.

What size pipe do you use for a leach field?

Leach Fields are trenches (or rectangular beds) dug in yard and filled with a foot of 3/4″ to 1-1/2″ gravel and a four inch diameter perforated pipe.

What were old septic tanks made of?

Many of the first septic tanks were concrete tanks that were formed out of wood and poured in place in the ground and covered with a concrete lid or often some type of lumber.

What are the 3 types of septic systems?

Types of Septic Systems

• Septic Tank.
• Conventional System.
• Chamber System.
• Drip Distribution System.
• Aerobic Treatment Unit.
• Mound Systems.
• Recirculating Sand Filter System.
• Evapotranspiration System.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

When did they stop using cesspools?

EPA banned the construction of new large-capacity cesspools on April 5, 2000.

How do you clean septic field lines?

You can use a sewer jetter to clean perforated PVC septic leach field lines from 2″ to 6″ ID. A sewer jetter can help you scrub away sticky sludge and flush out dirty residue to help reduce the need for subsequent cleaning of the lines.

Do old septic tanks need to be registered?

Many homes are not connected to mains drainage, instead having sewage treatment systems or septic tanks or occasionally cesspools. If your sewage treatment system or septic tank discharges to a river or stream it must be registered immediately.

What is the difference between a septic tank and a leach field?

The septic tank stores solid waste products that are not reduced to liquid effluent until you have them pumped out and disposed of properly. The leech field is a series of perforated pipes that provide an effective means for disposing of contaminates without endangering animals or contaminating the ground water.

How big is a typical septic drain field?

A typical septic drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36″; or per the USDA, 2 feet to 5 feet in depth.

How do infiltrator panels work?

The chambers are buried, locked end-to-end and capped with dome-shaped end plates to create a large half-tube structure. Effluent from a septic tank flows freely into the chambers and is filtered efficiently into the soil absorption area.

Septic System Age How Old is the Septic Tank, Septic Fields, Septic Piping?

• ASK a question or make a comment regarding the normal life expectancy of septic system components in the comments section.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Determining the age of a septic system This article series discusses the normal life expectancy of septic systems as well as the various components that make up a septic system. For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Septic System Age Determination

2018/05/25 Marie-Josée Raymond expressed herself as follows: Occupation of a residence at 3397 Kentucky Lane in Navan, Ontario. I’d want to know how old my septic tank and field are, please. This Q & A about the age of a septic system was first posted at The following is an index of SEPTIC SYSTEMS articles.

Reply:

Marie, Thank you for your outstanding question: how can I establish the age of my septic system, tank, and drainfields? I appreciate your help. While on the job, your septic contractor can examine the following components of your septic system: the septic tank access port, cleanout cover, tank material, pipe material (PVC, cast iron, terra cotta, ORANGEBURG PIPE), and the septic tank itself. septic tanks and lines In addition to the kind of plumbing, the materials used in septic tanks (steel, concrete, plastic, fiberglass, and home-made) provide date information.

1. Leaning over (methane asphyxiation) or falling into a septic system both carry the danger of death.
2. The life expectancy of a septic tank is mostly determined by the materials used in its construction, but the life expectancy of septic system pipe is largely determined by the likelihood of damage by vehicle traffic, root blockage, or flooding by groundwater.
3. If you can’t identify the septic system and don’t know anything about it or its history, the first step is to determine the age of the building and its plumbing system, with the assumption that the septic tank and fields are not much older than the structure and plumbing system.
4. If so, look atPLUMBING MATERIALSFIXTURE AGE.
5. ORANGEBURG PIPE was originally utilized in Boston in 1865, although it was not employed in septic drain fields until the late 1940s and early 1960s, according to historical records.
6. Check with your local building or health department to see whether any plans for your septic system have been submitted in the past, and if so, when.
7. It is possible that the septic system drawings submitted as part of a permit procedure will not correctly depict the septic system that was ultimately completed, but you will be within the correct time frame.
8. Website: (in French).
9. Check see theSEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDUREAtCESSPOOL AGING ESTIMATES for more information on how to check a septic tank, including the tank’s location, size, type, materials, and overall condition.

I have not attempted to replicate the results for typical septic systems, which employ a septic tank and a drainage field. More information about septic system age may be found in these two articles. THE EXPECTANCY OF SEPTIC LIFE THE EXPECTANCY OF SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LIFE

Reader CommentsQ A

These nevertheless are made of something like clay and range in size from 12 to 18 inches in section. At the construction phase, they do not like to fit inside of one another; instead they butch up to one another and are covered with tar paper merely at the seams, which is why they are called “tar paper.” @Michelle, The Orangeburg pipe, which was a black perforated pipe that was utilized in septic drain fields, was what I believe you were referring to. Please refer to the app description for further information.

1. I’m curious as to what type of drain field makes use of 12 to 18 inch sections of pipe that are kept together with tar paper.
2. As an aside, I would want to point out that the size of the septic tank is inadequate by today’s standards, and the Orangeburg pipe that you describe is undoubtedly something that you would presume is no longer in working order.
3. Our house was once a cottage that was only sometimes utilized.
4. The piping that I can see is Orangeburg, and there is no distribution box; instead, there is a T approximately 6 feet away from the tank.
5. It just had two lines, in my opinion, because it was a modest home.
6. Given the age and character of the property, what are your thoughts?
7. For example, unlike some other items, septic tanks are not often date stamped, and they do not have a product ID code or data tag attached to them.

For example, you could come across plans for the installation of a septic system that have been filed.

What is the best way to determine the age of my septic tank?

If you fall in, you might suffer serious injuries or perhaps death.

The cover for a steel septic tank is generally readily pulled off by excavating slightly past the perimeter of the tank lid when it is in this location.

It is possible that it will need to be emptied and replaced.

As well as this, see WHERE CAN I FIND A SEPTIC TANK?

So far, this is what I’ve discovered.

Is this an entry point for the pump out system?

Is it necessary to add another access point?

There are two bedrooms and a bathroom in this tiny home.

Way You may try posting a photo of the Stone album cover that you were discussing using the head image button and I might be able to offer a more useful response.

It is made of stone with four holes in the centre, and it is entirely by hand.

wayne Lisa See the information provided atSEPTIC OR SEWER CONECTION.

I’d want to know when a house’s septic system and well water were installed.

According to Mark Cramer, a Tampa-based specialist, it all depends.

Best case scenario: fecal waste can be stored for decades in a sewage pit, seepage pit, cesspit, or outhouse due to the fact that it is extremely concentrated in one location with little to no oxygen, bacteria, or dilution.

In order to get more information, go to our article on SEPTIC CLEARANCE DISTANCES in theARTICLE INDEX.

Alternatively, it is likely that gravity was used to direct water to the d-box at the specified depth.

Hi: I recently discovered that the distribution box for my septic system is 6 feet below the surface of the ground.

Does this imply that the drain field is also far deeper under the surface than it would be otherwise?

Do you have any clue why the D-box and drain are buried so deep beneath the surface?

Please accept my thanks for your enlightening response; have a wonderful day.

In my opinion, you are possibly not paying attention to the essence of the matter, which is that any system that is that old would be deemed to be at or near the end of its anticipated life in any event, regardless of its age.

When it comes to buried components, I would anticipate your counsel to state that as long as the nature of what’s there is disclosed, you are not making any representations regarding their future utility.

Even if those do not reveal an immediate problem, if a system is tiny and old, and I were advising a buyer, I would advise them to budget for the possibility of having to replace the system in the future.

Very often, you’ll discover that what you’re concerned about is not what your consumer is concerned about at all.

My main worry is that I want to keep the number of residents as low as possible to avoid the septic tank overflowing during the sale of my property with owner financing.

For clarification, I contacted the local health department to see whether I could limit the number of individuals to three, and the response I received was as follows: Septic systems have traditionally been designed to accommodate two persons per bedroom.

What I’m wondering is, do you happen to know what the average size of a septic tank was in 1940?

Thank you so much for your assistance.

Is it possible for water from a strong rain or rising lake water to seep into a storage tank? How well are they protected from groundwater intrusion from the outside?

Question:septic system installation in Newfoundland, Canada lasted 60 years

(15th of May, 2014) Art Mercer recalled his involvement in the construction of a concrete septic tank for his family’s home in Newfoundland, Canada, in 1958 when he was 14 years old. With the help of 8″ pieces of aluminum piping, we dug a septic field behind the house (on rural land). This septic system has been in continuous service since that time (for more than 60 years), and it has never been closed or opened. It will be switched to the local town septic system later this week, by my brother (who was not even born at the time of the conversion).

Reply:

Thank you for informing me about your achievement, Art. In fact, there are several historic septic system drainfields that are still in use today. On a regular basis, I observe that soil qualities are critical to the efficient disposal of wastewater. As an example, in 1998, I dug a septic system that had been installed in 1920 but was still “working,” sustaining the residence of a single elderly inhabitant who had noticed odors surrounding the septic tank and reported them to me. We discovered that there was no drainfield or even a seepage hole where we were looking.

The effluent was disposed away, despite the fact that it had received very rudimentary treatment.

Question: 36 year old septic systems: contractor wants too much to do a repair

22nd of October, 2014) Sherry Lewis shared her experience, saying, “My septic system is 36 years old.” It is made of concrete (if the stand pipes are made of concrete, I assume the tank is as well), it has two tanks (the second is said to be an overflow tank), the soil in my area is mostly sandy (due to the proximity to the ocean), and I have lived in my house for approximately 30 years as the only occupant.

1. In addition, I only use the garbage disposal for the tiniest pieces of food that manage to find their way into it, and I don’t put anything else into the system other than water, soap, the tiniest amount of garbage trash, and toilet waste.
2. In the past, I phoned them because air was gushing out of my downstairs toilet and a buddy said that this meant danger as well as a full tank of gas.
3. The pumper man stated that, partly because of the system’s age, it was probably time to replace it, either completely or at the very least the leach field.
4. 2) When I spoke with a contractor about the task, he informed me that a lift station would be required owing to the high level of ground water (8′).
5. He recommended the lift station without visiting my home to measure the depth of my present sewage pipe, and I intend to contact him to confirm this rather than assume that they will not accommodate a standard system like the one I already have.
6. In the end, the gentleman who came to dig the test hole in order to determine the water level estimated an approximate cost of $7,000 or slightly more if I declared 4 instead of 3 bedrooms.

Because of the lift station, the contractor that will perform the replacement work has quoted a price that is nearly twice as much as the original estimate! That appears to be absurdly expensive! Please, someone assist me! Thank you so much for your assistance.

Reply:

(February 13th, 2015) The following is what Harry Ford said: You should definitely urge the new house owner to get the home’s septic system assessed before purchasing it.

Reply:

We wholeheartedly agree with Harry. See The Home Buyer’s Guide to Sewer and Drainage Systems Additionally, we provide septic system guidance to clients who are selling their house. SEPTIC TESTS FOR HOME SELLER’S GUIDELINES

Question: remove a tree from the septic tank?

Ron Lee asked on April 9, 2015: Would you be willing to remove an ash tree from near a septic tank?

Reply:

Yes An in-depth guide may be found at PLANTSTREES OVER SEPTIC SYSTEMS. Continue reading atSEPTIC LIFE EXPECTANCY, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for a comprehensive list of articles. Alternatively, consider the following:

Details about the life expectancy of a septic system

• CESSPOOL AGE ESTIMATES
• SEPTIC LIFE EXPECTANCY
• SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LIFE
• SEPTIC LIFE MAXIMIZING STEPS
• SEPTIC FIELD FAILURE CAUSES
• SEPTIC SYSTEM AGE
• SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND
• SEPTIC TANK,

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INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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joys of old house septic systems

Even if such is the reasoning that the proponents of pumping would like us to believe, the claim is simply not supported by the evidence. Originally, toilets were needed to flush 5 gallons every flush, which was then reduced to 3.5 gallons per flush in the late 1950s, and is currently regulated to flush 1.6 gallons per flush or less. Laundry was done in wringer washing machines that required 15 gallons of water plus another 15 gallons in the rinse tub, and most people used a double rinse tub, one for presoaking and the other for rinsing, and most people used a double rinse tub to presoak and rinse.

Bathing was done mostly in large claw foot baths that required 35 to 40 gallons of water per minute, or when there was a shower, it required 4 gallons per minute.

We also set the water heaters to 180 degrees Fahrenheit, which allowed us to utilize a 50/50 mix of hot and cold water.

It should also be remembered that in those days most women were homemakers and we cooked from scratch, resulting in the consumption of many gallons of water during the preparation and cooking process, not to mention the hundreds of gallons of water consumed in many homes as they home canned seasonal foods, whereas today our culture primarily relies on takeout or pre-processed foods that are heated directly from the freezer to the microwave or oven.

1. It was once necessary that any rural construction lot where they wanted to place a septic tank be at least 2 acres in size and that the entire footprint of all structures on the site could not exceed 35 percent of its overall land area in the 1950s, 1960s, and even 1970s.
2. Additional requirements included a minimum of three parallel leach field lines, each of which must be 60 feet long and with a minimum interval of five feet between parallel lines.
3. The overall leach field area necessary now is a minuscule fraction of the amount required for the older residences.
4. In the first place, the septic tank’s interior baffles prevent any floating solids from entering the digestion chamber.
5. This is true except for the brief period following a tank pumping when the water level is still below the baffles, but given that the tank will normally be refilled within 3 days, the risk is minimal.
6. Keep in mind that anaerobic bacteria (bactera that flourish in the absence of oxygen) colonize the septic tank, and that when the tank is pumped, the whole vessel will be filled with air, compromising even the leftover bacteria required to restart the culture.
7. Because the tank is only built to store the volume of waste generated in three days, pumping the tank would only be able to ease the situation for three days at the very most.

The remedy is simple: simply obtain a trash can and dispose of the solid garbage at the curb.

Everything you need to know about your old cesspool

Acresspool, also known as a sump pit or a soakaway, is a hole in the ground enclosed by cement, stone, concrete, brick, or other material that is used to collect wastewater from a home or other structure. The material used to construct the pit wall may be perforated to enable wastewater to seep in from the sides in some instances. Cesspools, in other words, serve as a temporary holding facility for wastewater until it is absorbed into the earth. Originally, there was no connection between them and a septic tank.

• In this case, the wastewater was discharged straight into the pit.
• Solids and liquids could not be separated because they lacked a separation mechanism.
• They also filled up far more fast and required more frequent emptying than other types of containers.
• If, on the other hand, you purchase a house that was built decades ago, you may discover a cesspool.

How does a cesspool work?

As we have seen, the walls are constructed of a variety of materials, but they all have the characteristic of not being totally waterproof, allowing water to leak through. Wastewater will leak into the pit from the bottom and likely through the sides as well. Most cesspools are also equipped with a septic tank. Solids are held back in the septic tank so that they don’t build up in the pit where they should not. The septic tank, not the cesspit, is the one that has to be pumped out on a regular schedule.

How to know if you have a cesspool on your property

Cesspools were added in residences that were constructed before the year 1970. As a result, if your house is newer than that, it is quite improbable that you have one. This is due to government laws prohibiting the installation of sump pumps on new construction sites beginning in the 1970s. If you are unclear about the age of your property or whether or not you have a cesspit or a drainfield, you may look up the information on your certificate of location.

Why were cesspools banned for new properties?

Previously used cesspools that were not linked to a septic tank were hazardous to the environment and blocked up in a short period of time. Because the wastewater was not treated prior to disposal, it ended up in the ground. A single location was used to collect and treat wastewater. Wetland runoff was far more likely to pollute the artesian well, the water table, and other surface waterways than dryland runoff. This has a variety of negative consequences for public health, as well as other unfavorable environmental consequences.

The absorption area, on the other hand, was quite restricted, and black sludge (biomat) built extremely rapidly.

By expanding the surface area of the infiltration zone, the leaching bed was able to resolve this issue successfully. This makes it much easier for the effluent to be treated as it infiltrates the receiving soil and before it reaches the groundwater.

How to know if you have a failed cesspool

A cesspool does not have to be entirely clogged for you to notice that it is no longer operating correctly, contrary to common perception. Despite the fact that this is one of the most evident symptoms, it is conceivable that the soakaway pit is still collecting wastewater despite the fact that it is no longer in perfect operating condition. When checking your cesspool, there are a few things you should look for.

• Most noticeable indicator of a malfunctioning sump is when it becomes overflowing and cannot retain any more wastewater (whether it is on the ground or within the home). This occurs when a stream, wetland, or drinking water well gets contaminated as a result of the pit’s operation. There is a problem when the liquid level in the septic tank is greater than the drain line that is linked to the cesspool. When the bottom of the sump dips lower than the water table, the sump effluent comes into direct contact with the groundwater (this is extremely hazardous and should be avoided at all costs)

A failed cesspool will contaminate the environment and may encourage the spread of viruses that cause a variety of ailments. Any indication of a system failure should be taken extremely seriously, and corrective action should be performed as soon as possible. Our recommendation is for a shock treatment, which is a means of injecting billions of bacteria into a cesspit by adding biological ingredients to the mixture. The bacteria will aid in the digestion of organic waste, allowing the system to return to its ideal functioning state as a result.

Should I replace my cesspool with a leaching bed?

Because it is a grandfathered right, the government will allow you to maintain your old cesspool as long as it is not harming the environment. It will be your obligation, however, to guarantee that the sump pit does not pollute groundwater in any manner. Having said that, it may be necessary to replace your old cesspool with a new septic system if you fall into one of the following categories:

• Your pit must be no more than 200 feet (or less) from a public water well, body of water, or any other source of drinking water. If your cesspool feeds non-residential facilities or if your house is converted into a multi-family housing, you may be required to install a septic system. If your cesspool overflows and pollutes the environment, contact a professional immediately.

How much does it cost to replace the cesspool?

The cost of replacing a cesspool with a new septic system is between $10,000 and $30,000 Canadian dollars. Sumps cannot be replaced with standard septic systems in all cases, though. It may be essential to build an advanced treatment system on tiny properties or those that are close to wells or other bodies of water. To further diminish the presence of fecal coliforms, you may need to employ a tertiary treatment system that includes a UV light. Advanced systems treat the system at a deeper level than standard systems.

You will be advised by an engineer on the sort of septic system that is most appropriate for your property.

Conclusion

If your home was constructed before to the 1970s, there is a good probability that you have a cesspool on your property. As long as the sump is located a reasonable distance away from a drinking water source (at least 200 feet) and is not harming the environment, you should have no need to be concerned. Of course, you must be vigilant in monitoring your system and ensuring that it is properly maintained in order to avoid any type of malfunction. In any case, it’s a good idea to prepare for the replacement of your old cesspool with a new septic system, which will provide better treatment of your sewage.

How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located.

A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.

Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future.

In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

A Beginner’s Guide to Septic Systems

• Septic systems are used to dispose of waste from homes and buildings. Identifying the location of the septic tank and drainfield
• What a Septic System Is and How It Works Keeping a Septic System in Good Condition
• Signs that a septic system is failing include:

Septic systems, also known as on-site wastewater management systems, are installed in a large number of buildings and houses. It is easy to lose sight of septic systems, which operate quietly, gracefully, and efficiently to protect human and environmental health due to their burying location. Septic systems are the norm in rural regions, but they may also be found in a lot of metropolitan places, especially in older buildings. It is critical to understand whether or not your building is on a septic system.

Is Your Home or Building on a Septic System?

It is possible that the solution to this question will not be evident. If a structure looks to be connected to a sewage system, it may instead be connected to a septic system. It is fairly unusual for tenants to be unaware of the final destination of the wastewater generated by their residence. Some of the hints or signs listed below will assist in determining whether the facility is served by a septic system or whether it is supplied by a sewer system:

• Sewer service will be provided at a cost by the city or municipality. Pay close attention to the water bill to see whether there is a cost labeled “sewer” or “sewer charge” on it. If there is a fee for this service, it is most likely because the facility is connected to a sewage system. Look up and down the street for sewage access ports or manholes, which can be found in any location. If a sewage system runs in front of a property, it is probable that the house is connected to it in some way. Inquire with your neighbors to see if they are connected to a sewer or septic system. The likelihood that your home is on a sewer system is increased if the properties on each side of you are on one as well. Keep in mind, however, that even if a sewage line runs in front of the structure and the nearby residences are connected to a sewer system, your home or building may not be connected to one. If the structure is older than the sewer system, it is possible that it is still on the original septic system. Consult with your local health agency for further information. This agency conducts final inspections of septic systems to ensure that they comply with applicable laws and regulations. There is a possibility that they have an archived record and/or a map of the system and will supply this information upon request

All property owners should be aware of whether or not their property is equipped with an on-site wastewater treatment system. Georgia law mandates that the property owner is responsible for the correct operation of a septic system, as well as any necessary maintenance and repairs.

Locating the Septic Tank and Drainfield

Finding a septic system may be a difficult process. They can be buried anywhere in the yard, including the front, back, and side yards. After a few years, the soil may begin to resemble the surrounding soil, making it impossible to distinguish the system from the surrounding soil. It is possible that in dry weather, the grass will be dryer in the shallow soil over the tank and greener over the drainfield, where the cleansed water will be released, but this is not always the case, especially in hot weather.

1. The contractor who built the house should have presented the initial owner with a map showing the tank and drainfield locations, according to the building code.
2. The installation of the system, as well as any modifications made to it, would have been examined by your local health authority.
3. Unfortunately, if the system is very old, any records related with it may be insufficient or nonexistent, depending on the situation.
4. Look for the point at where the wastewater pipes join together if the building is on a crawlspace or has an unfinished basement.
5. The sewer line that runs through the structure is referred to as the building sewer.
6. To “feel” for the tank, use a piece of re-bar or a similar metal probe.
7. If you use this free service, you may avoid accidentally putting a rod through your gas or water line.

Try to locate the tank after a rainstorm, when the metal probe will be more easily maneuvered through moist dirt.

This should be done with care; extreme caution should be exercised to avoid puncturing the building sewer.

A tank is normally 5 by 8 feet in size, however the dimensions might vary.

Be aware that there may be rocks, pipes, and other debris in the area that “feels” like the tank but is not in fact part of the tank.

However, it is possible to have the lid or access port positioned on a riser in addition to being on the same level as the top of the tank in some cases.

Once the tank has been identified, make a rough drawing of its placement in relation to the house so that it will not be misplaced again!

It may be easier to discover the drainage lines now that the tank has been identified, particularly if the area has been subjected to prolonged periods of drought.

How a Septic System Works

Typical sewage treatment system (figure 1). It is composed of three components (Figure 1): the tank, the drain lines or discharge lines, and the soil treatment area (also known as the soil treatment area) (sometimes called a drainfield or leach field). The size of the tank varies according to the size of the structure. The normal home (three bedrooms, two bathrooms) will often include a 1,000-gallon water storage tank on the premises. Older tanks may only have one chamber, however newer tanks must have two chambers.

1. The tank functions by settling waste and allowing it to be digested by microbes.
2. These layers include the bottom sludge layer, the top scum layer, and a “clear” zone in the center.
3. A typical septic tank is seen in Figure 2.
4. It is fortunate that many of the bacteria involved are found in high concentrations in the human gastrointestinal tract.
5. Although the bacteria may break down some of the stuff in the sludge, they are unable to break down all of it, which is why septic tanks must be cleaned out every three to seven years.
6. In addition, when new water is introduced into the septic tank, an equal volume of water is pushed out the discharge lines and onto the drainfield.
7. The water trickles out of the perforated drain pipes, down through a layer of gravel, and into the soil below the surface (Figure 3).
8. A typical drainfield may be found here.
9. Plants, bacteria, fungus, protozoa, and other microorganisms, as well as bigger critters such as mites, earthworms, and insects, flourish in soil.
10. Mineralogical and metallic elements attach to soil particles, allowing them to be removed from the waste water.

Maintaining a Septic System

The most typical reason for a septic system to fail is a lack of proper maintenance. Septic systems that are failing are expensive to repair or replace, and the expense of repairs rests on the shoulders of the property owner (Figure 4). Fortunately, keeping your septic system in good working order and avoiding costly repairs is rather simple. Figure 4. Septic system failure is frequently caused by a lack of proper maintenance. It is in your best interests to be aware of the location of the system, how it operates, and how to maintain it.

1. You should pump the tank if you aren’t sure when the last time it was pumped.
2. It is not permissible to drive or park over the tank or drainage field.
3. No rubbish should be disposed of in the sink or the toilet.
4. It’s important to remember that garbage disposals enhance the requirement for regular pumping.
5. When designing a landscape, keep the septic system in mind.
6. It is also not recommended to consume veggies that have been cultivated above drainfield lines (see Dorn, S.
7. Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields.

C 1030).

Any water that enters your home through a drain or toilet eventually ends up in your septic system.

Don’t put too much strain on the system by consuming a large amount of water in a short period of time.

Additives should not be used.

Various types of additives are available for purchase as treatment options, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenator and boosters, among other things.

To break up oil and grease and unclog drains, chemical additives are available for purchase.

Pumping out the septic tank is not eliminated or reduced by using one of these systems.

They remain floating in the water and travel into the drainfield, where they may block the pipes. Acids have the potential to damage concrete storage tanks and distribution boxes.

Signs a Septic System is Failing

A failed system manifests itself in the following ways:

• Sinks and toilets drain at a snail’s pace
• Plumbing that is backed up
• The sound of gurgling emanating from the plumbing system House or yard aromas that smell like sewage
• In the yard, there is wet or squishy dirt
• Water that is gray in hue that has accumulated
• An region of the yard where the grass is growing more quickly and is becoming greener
• Water contaminated by bacteria from a well

If you notice any of these indicators, you should notify your local health department immediately. An environmentalist from the health department can assist in identifying possible hazards. There are also listings of state-certified contractors available from the local health department, who may do repairs. Repairs or alterations to the system must be approved by the health department and examined by an inspector. Keep an eye out for any meetings that may take place between a health department inspector and a contractor to discuss repairs to your system.

1. Household garbage that has not been properly handled is released into the environment when systems fail.
2. It has the potential to pollute surrounding wells, groundwater, streams, and other sources of potable water, among other things.
3. The foul odor emanating from a malfunctioning system can cause property values to plummet.
4. Briefly stated, broken systems can have an impact on your family, neighbors, community, and the environment.
5. Septic systems are an effective, attractive, and reasonably priced method of treating and disposing of wastewater.

Figures 2 and 3 reprinted with permission from: CIDWT. 2009. Installation of Wastewater Treatment Systems. Consortium of Institutes for Decentralized Wastewater Treatment. Iowa State University, Midwest Plan Service. Ames, IA.

History of the current status and revisions Published on the 15th of August, 2013. Published on March 28th, 2017 with a full review.

Septic Tank Replacement

If this is the case, you will want the services of a reliable septic repair service provider such as Lentz Wastewater Management. What if I told you. Before 1970, most houses had septic tanks made of manufactured cinderblock, rock (also known as cesspools), or metal tanks, depending on their construction. We rapidly discovered that we needed to employ more lasting materials, such as concrete or plastic, in our construction. Despite the fact that we still see these sorts of tanks today, they are frequently in need of replacement owing to degradation.

The Septic Tank

• An underground, watertight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a waste disposal system. The major function of the tank is to separate solid waste from liquid waste by separating the solids and greases from the liquid waste. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow heavy particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Septic tanks include anaerobic bacteria (bacteria that do not require oxygen to function), which break down the solids and greases. Some sediments are left at the bottom of the septic tank that have not been digested (sludge). Solids must be removed from the tank on a regular basis in order for it to function properly. It is via this pumping that sediments are prevented from being taken intothedrainfield and the effective capacity of the tank is maintained. Grease, sludge, and hair float to the surface of the water. A standard septic tank has a capacity of 1,000 gallons of liquid, is waterproof, and is typically constructed of concrete, however it can also be constructed of fiberglass and plastic. Inlet and outflow flow patterns are controlled by internal baffles located at the tank’s inlet and exit

• Historically, single compartment tanks were the norm for systems built before 1980ish. Tanks erected after 1980 are often divided into two compartments. Because both compartments of a two-compartment tank must be pumped when the tank is being pumped, it is critical to understand this before having the tank pumped.

Septic systems are available in a variety of configurations, including gravity, chamber, pressure distribution, and others. Septic systems differ in the manner in which effluent is transported from the tank to the absorption field, which is often a matter of design. The septic tank itself is the most frequent component of all of the many types of systems on the market.

How often does a septic tank need to be replaced?

In most cases, septic tanks will not need to be changed after a specific number of years. Homeowners should not wait until they are experiencing issues before considering tank replacement. When it comes to your system, regular maintenance is essential. The majority of older septic systems that have been properly maintained are still in good working order today. Septic systems are inspected by a professional septic inspector to determine their condition. He can tell you what sort of soil absorption system you have based on the information you provide.

It is necessary to drain the tank if there is indication of bacterial issues, such as very thick scum or solids accumulation inside the tank.

If your septic system is not properly maintained, it may fail, necessitating excavation and repair or replacement.

If your septic system is properly planned, implemented, and maintained, it should survive for a very long period of time. Systems that are not maintained will fail. PROTECT. DON’T NEGLECT TO DO SO!

Septic System Life expectancy

System and component life expectancy are discussed in detail in the next section. How long does a septic tank last before it has to be replaced? A septic leach field or drainfield is expected to persist for several years. Which septic system components, such as pipes, D-boxes, septic pumps, and other septic system components, have the longest expected life span? Septic systems and typical septic system components have a life expectancy that is mostly dependent on the materials that were utilized during the initial installation.

Old age, lack of adequate maintenance, neglect, and misuse are among factors that might cause a septic system to fail.

The normal septic system may survive up to 30-50 years or even longer in some instances.

PROTECT.AND DON’T FORGET!

What to do if you just moved into a new home with a septic system?

If you’ve recently purchased a property that has a septic tank, you’re likely to have a lot of questions. Contact a septic pumping provider and have your septic system cleaned and pumped out as soon as possible. The majority of firms will perform a septic system examination, which will inform you where the tank is located, how big the tank is, and whether or not there are any urgent problems. It is advised that you have your septic system evaluated by a professional septic inspector in order to get a more in-depth review of your system.

• Determines the type of system to be used, as well as the position of the tank, absorption field, and distribution boys (if any). Observations of a septic tank

• Risers and lids that are working or that are damaged
• Tank – flaking, cracking, crumbling, and depth Sanitary Tee — a sanitary tee that is still in good condition. the presence of and functionality of an effluent filter Levels of scum and sludge in the effluent are measured. Tank construction materials include concrete, polyethylene, and other materials.

• Pump Chamber is operational
• Electrical connections are operational
• Pump Chamber is operational
• A functional alarm is activated when the floats are activated for wastewater. The pump is located.

• Located
• Flow – continuous functioning flow from the home to the tank with no backups or effluent spilling to the ground surface
• Cleanouts that are visually appealing, useful, and in tact
• Saturation is represented by lush vegetation and wet/soggy areas.

Tips for a Healthy Septic System

• Reducing the quantity of waste-water that your system has to process and distribute is important. For example, spreading laundry out over many days a week may help minimize waste-water and relieve stress on your septic system. Keep an eye out for dripping faucets and fix them right away, as this will help to limit the quantity of waste water that must be treated by your septic system. Surface water should be diverted away from your septic tank and drain field. Address the problem of wet soil above your drainfield, which prevents the system from processing waste water effectively. Install septic risers as necessary to ensure that your septic tank is accessible for pumping, inspection, and maintenance. In general, septic tanks should be pumped out every three to five years, depending on their size. Performing annual inspections can help to ensure that your system remains in good functioning condition. If your drainfield has been infiltrated by solid waste material, draining the tank will not restore it to working order. Maintain detailed records of all system repairs, pumpings, inspections, and other maintenance activities. When it comes to selling your property, these will be really advantageous. When planting trees and shrubs, use caution since deeply rooted trees and shrubs might enter your leachfield pipelines and chambers and suffocate the discharge flow. Do not drive over your septic system, nor should you construct decks, pools, or other structures on top of the tank or absorption field.

Steps to Take for a Septic Tank Replacement in North Carolina

• Contact Lentz Wastewater if you want to be put on our schedule as a replacement for an existing system. We will assist you in every stage of the procedure
• We will be with you every step of the way. Fill out the septic repair permit application that is needed by your county. Applications for counties near Iredell can be found at the websites provided below.

• The “Authorization to Act as Legal Representative Form” must be signed by both you and the homeowner if you are not the homeowner.

You can submit the application to your local environmental health agency for review and approval. Fee schedules are broken down each county.

• An inspector from the county will come to the site and finalize the permission for the replacement of the tank.

On the day of the tank replacement, a county inspector will check the site and issue a permit for the work. In order to obtain further information on permits and costs, you should speak with your local health department. Environmental Health in Iredell County – StatesvilleContact The following phone number is for Adrienne Shea: (704) 878-5305 ext. 3456. – Statesville, North Carolina 28677 N. Center Street Application for a Septic System Permit in Iredell County Permit Fees in Iredell County Catawba CountyPhone: (828) 465-8268Catawba CountyPhone: (828) 465-8268 Catawba County Email100A SWBlvdNewton, NC 28625 – Application for a Septic Permit in Catawba County Fees for Catawba County Permits Charlotte – Mecklenburg County– Change the link if necessary.

980-314-1680Mecklenburg County EmailPhone: 980-314-1680Groundwater and Wastewater Services3205 Freedom Drive Suite 8000Charlotte, NC 28202Groundwater and Wastewater ServicesGroundwater and Wastewater ServicesGroundwater and Wastewater Services Application for a Charlotte-Mecklenburg CoSeptic Permit Fees for Permits in Mecklenburg County – 336-753-1680210 Hospital StreetMocksville, NC 27028 Davie County EmailFax: (336) 753-1680 Application for a Septic Permit in Davie County Alexander CountyPhone: 828-632-1000 Ext 311Fax: (828-632-13546125 NC Hwy 16 SouthTaylorsville, NC 28681Alexander CountyPhone: 828-632-1000 Ext 311 Application for a Septic System Permit in Alexander County Fees for Permits in Alexander County -– Rowan County’s phone number is 704-216-8533.

Tad Helmstetler402 N. Main StreetSalisbury, NC 28144 Helmstetler, Tad Fees for Rowan County Permits -– 336-679-4200213 E. Elm StYadkinville, NC 27055Yadkin CountyPhone: (336) 679-4200Email Application for a Permit in Yadkin County Fees for Permits in Yadkin County