How To Put Drain Lines From The House To The Septic Tank? (Perfect answer)

• Trace the edges of your septic tank. Using the probe, trace the edge of your tank and mark the corners with a few wooden stakes. Then, measure corner to corner to get the size of your tank. Find the drain lines. The drain lines are connected to the other side of your septic tank, opposite of your house.

What kind of pipe goes from house to septic?

The septic tank should be positioned at least 50 feet from the house proper. ABS or PVC plastic or cast iron pipe can be used to connect the tank to the house drainage system. [We do not recommend using clay pipe nor “orangeburg” pipe.]

How do you add a line to a septic tank?

Use a 4-inch pipe to connect the two septic tanks. Place this pipe into the inlet hole of your new septic tank before you lower it into the ground. After you’ve lowered your new septic tank, insert the other end of the pipe into your old septic tank’s outlet hole.

How do you install a sewer drain line?

The Process of Installation of Residential Sewer Line

1. Determine the Pipe’s Depth. Always begin by deciding the elevation of each pipe.
2. Compute the Slope.
3. Dig the trench and Lay the Bleeding.
4. Install the Pipe.
5. Back Fill the Trench.

What size pipe goes from house to septic tank?

Four-inch pipe is standard, and it should extend far enough under the house to connect with the main soil stack, which is a 3-inch pipe that extends vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof.

How long are septic lateral lines?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

How do I find my septic tank outlet pipe?

The outlet pipe should be approximately 3 inches below the inlet pipe. Inlet Baffle: The inlet baffle is installed on the inlet pipe inside the tank.

How do you seal a septic tank pipe?

The tar sealant can be used to fill the void between the concrete and pipe. Use a trowel to press the sealant into the void. If the rubber gasket is molded into the tank for the pipe, tighten it up.

How do the sewer lines from your house work?

In the ideal case, a sewer system is completely gravity-powered, like a septic system. Pipes from each house or building flow to a sewer main that runs, for example, down the middle of the street. The sewer mains flow into progressively larger pipes until they reach the wastewater treatment plant.

How deep should sewer pipe be buried?

On average, trenches should be around 12-24 inches-deep, and wide enough to house your pipe comfortably before filling it in with soil and sod. As we’ve mentioned, in cold weather regions, this will need to be deeper or you’ll have problems with your sewage freezing.

What size should my sewer line be?

Sewer drains from laundry sinks or washing machines are 2 inches in diameter and those from sinks in the kitchen, bathroom or powder room generally use a 1.5-inch pipe. The main sewer pipe leading to the septic tank or public sewer is usually 4 inches.

How big is a septic drain pipe?

Typically septic trenches are 8 to 12 inches wide in some applications, or 18″ to a maximum of 36″ wide in traditional, conventional septic drainfield designs.

How deep should a septic tank be?

Septic tanks are typically rectangular in shape and measure approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground.

How to Run a Septic Tank Line From Your House

Products that are safer, more powerful, and more efficient are important to us, and we recognize this. Pouring a foamy root killer that does not include copper sulfate down the toilet is the most effective and safest method of treating pipe roots. Without harming your tree, causing damage to your pipes, or incurring astronomical costs, this substance eliminates and dissolves tree roots. If you’ve tried everything and your plumbing is still not operating properly, it’s possible that the solution to your problem is right outside your window.

Locating the Septic Tank

The tank serves as the nerve center of the septic system. It is required to be situated between the residence and the drainage field. Each and every septic installation must begin with a soil test, and depending on the results, soil conditions may necessitate the placement of the tank in a less-than-ideal site for digging sewer lines. Also required are minimum setback distances from property borders, functioning wells, surface water and other obstructions to provide a safe working environment.

Tank Depth

A standard septic tank has a 4-inch intake at the top, which is positioned towards the bottom. Ideally, a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the pipe from the house should be maintained by the pipe connecting to it. To put it another way, for every 10 feet of distance between a tank and a home, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches lower than where the pipe departs the house at its lowest point. The pipe usually exits at ground level, although it may need to pass beneath a foundation footing or concrete pad in rare cases.

Digging the Trench

The trench for the septic pipe should be dug before the hole for the tank since you will need a backhoe to complete the work and the tank will get in your way if it is already in the ground. To allow rainfall to drain properly, the pipe should be placed on a 2- or 3-inch bed of drain rock, so remember to account for this extra depth when digging. It is normal to use a four-inch pipe, and it should be installed far enough down to link with the main soil stack, which is a three-inch pipe that runs vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof of the home.

Precautions

Local building and health agencies will demand permits for a septic tank installation. You will also be required to submit a design plan before the permits will be provided, so prepare ahead of time. This layout should be developed in collaboration with a local builder who is familiar with the unique characteristics of the topography in your neighborhood. Stay away from planting trees or plants near the tank, drainage field, or any of the pipe systems.

They will be drawn to the pipes in their hunt for nutrition, and their roots will be able to successfully block them. You will be unable to use your septic system until the roots have been removed from the pipe. Removal may be both expensive and time-consuming.

How to Install Drain Pipes for a Septic Tank Yourself

Home-Diy Installing a septic tank is often done by a professional who has access to the necessary equipment. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.remove ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) is a fallback logo image.

A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground.

• The following items are required: Shovel (backhoe is recommended)
• Tape measure
• Gravel
• Rake PVC perforated pipe
• PVC pipe cleaner
• PVC pipe cement PVC pipe cleaner
• Geotextile material
• Hacksaw

Warning

Large bushes or trees should not be planted directly over drain lines.

1. Inspect your property and get a percolation test performed. In most cases, you will need a copy of the perc test results in order to acquire a permit to build a septic system in your home. In order to assess how quickly the soil absorbs water, a perc test will be performed on your site by a licensed specialist on your behalf. The results of this test will be used to calculate the quantity of drain line that will be required for your system. Drain lines should be measured and marked out before installation. You can divide this down into many lines, but each line must be the same length, and there must be a minimum of six feet between each line in order to be considered complete. Prior to digging, mark the beginning and ending locations of each line, double-checking all measurements to ensure they are accurate. Dig each drain line to a depth of 30 inches and a width of 24 inches. However, while a pick and shovel may be used to do the task, a backhoe can complete it in a fraction of the time and with less strain on your back. To make the trenches as flat as possible, remove any large boulders or roots that may have accumulated in them. Each of these lines will be served by a pipe that will go from the distribution box to it. This is the location where the pipe from the distribution box enters the ditch and marks the beginning point of your drain line. Fill each drain line with gravel until it reaches a depth of 12 inches. Spread gravel over the area to be covered with drain pipes and smooth it up with your rake. Install a 4 inch PVC perforated pipe on top of the gravel to provide drainage. This pipe will be connected to the pipe that comes from the distribution box and will run the whole length of the drain line to connect to the drain. Pipe cleaner should be used to clean each pipe junction before applying pipe cement. Before continuing, double-check that all of the fittings are in place. To finish covering the drain lines, continue to pour additional gravel into the system until the pipes are covered by roughly 1 to 2 inches of material. Using a rake, smooth out the gravel. A layer of geotextile material should be rolled out to cover the whole length and width of the drain line in order to prevent dirt from filtering into the drain lines and to aid in keeping roots out of the drainage system. The drain lines should be backfilled somewhat to allow for some small mounding to compensate for the settling that will occur. Grass seed should be planted on top of drain lines to aid in the absorption process and to avoid erosion.

The Drip Cap

• Installing a septic tank is often done by a professional who has access to the necessary equipment. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. Dig each drain line to a depth of 30 inches and a width of 24 inches. Ensure that any large rocks or roots are removed from the trenches, and that the foundation is as level as possible
• Fill each drain line with gravel until it reaches a depth of 12 inches. In addition, this pipe will link to the pipe that comes from the distribution box and will run the whole length of the drain line.

How to Install a Septic Tank with Drain Line

It is discussed in this article how to set up a septic tank with a drain line. A three-compartment septic tank is covered in detail in this project, which includes all of the processes required to complete the installation. This septic tank has adequate capacity to accommodate 4-6 people, making it an excellent choice for most households. Even if the installation is straightforward, you will need to rent a mini-excavator or, ideally, a backhoe digger to do the job properly. It is important to exercise caution when using detergents, disinfectants, or other acid cleansers since they will interfere with the operation of the bacteria that decompose the waste materials.

A simple explanation for how the system works is that the majority of the trash is transformed into sewage water.

Every two years, you will be required to remove the solids from the system.

The water will then be able to seep into the soil through the gravel layer.

Made from this plan

The construction of the sewage lines from the home to the site of the septic tank is the first step in the project’s development. Excavate the trenches such that the pipes have a 1/8 inch dip each foot of excavation. The pipes must be placed on a bed of sand and then completely covered with sand. The sand will protect the pipes, and it will also serve as an excellent marker for future operations, should it be necessary to dig further trenches. Decide on the position of the septic tank and mark the area with a marker.

1. Furthermore, the depth of the hole will be decided by the size and placement of the septic tank as well as the location of the sewage line.
2. We also employed a dumper truck to remove the soil from the site.
3. Make certain that the sewer pipe has a 1.5 percent slope when it is installed.
4. We relocated the septic tank with the help of a backhoe digger after securing it with a heavy-duty strap and moving it.
5. Check to verify that the septic tank intake is compatible with the sewer pipe.
6. We used a spirit level to ensure that the tank was upright during the installation.
7. Sand should be poured around the tank.

If you do not fill the tank with water, it will collapse due to the weight of the earth on top of the container.

We will not be constructing a drain field for this project, but rather an 80-foot-long trench.

You may either construct two 40-foot-long trenches or a wide surface area and install three 25-foot-long drain pipes on it.

We connected the header pipe to the septic tank, ensuring that it had a 2 percent slope to prevent backflow.

Because it will move quite swiftly, using a backhoe digger is highly recommendable.

Trenches should be filled with gravel to the point where the drain pipe (which is normally 4′′ in diameter and perforated) has a 1/8′′ per foot slope.

Using a 4′′ layer of gravel, cover the drain pipe and make sure the surface is level.

Geothextile cloth should be used to cover the trench.

Because the fabric prevents the pebbles from becoming mixed with the soil and clogging the drain pipe, it is effective.

At the end of the drain pipe, you must add a vent pipe to provide for proper ventilation.

This also allows for simple access to the drain pipe in the event that it has to be cleaned.

We moved the earth that we had dug back into the trenches with the use of the backhoe’s front loader bucket and a rake.

First and foremost, you must connect the riser to the septic tank.

In order to have easy access to the tank for maintenance and inspection, the top of the riser should be slightly above the level of the surrounding ground.

These sheets are thin and rather stiff, despite their small weight.

As a result, you must first cover the tank with these sheets, followed by a 4′′ layer of dirt on top of that.

The polystyrene sheets must be covered with dirt once they have been laid out on the ground.

Work carefully so that you do not harm the tank.

On the blog, you can also get a comprehensive guide on how to construct a concrete pump house.

Make sure to read the previous articles in the Brick House Construction Series to see what more is in store for you!

We appreciate you taking the time to read our article on how to construct a septic tank with drain line, and we encourage you to go through the rest of our projects. Please spread the word about our articles to your friends by using the social media sharing buttons.

Related Posts

• In this section, you may ask questions or express your opinions regarding trenching for Septic or Sewer Pipes.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Replacement of a sewer or septic line entails inserting a new pipe into an existing trench. When a sewer pipe, often known as a “drain line,” has to be changed, this article discusses how to install a new sewer line. Using real-world examples and photographs, we demonstrate how to diagnose and replace a clogged sewage line in an actual case study.

Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Guide to installing the replacement sewer pipe line

This article on sewage line replacement discusses how to install the new sewer pipe and link it to the existing system.

• Precautions should be taken during the excavation of sewage lines or septic lines. The maximum permitted slope for sewer or septic line pipe is recommended. Specifications for sewer or septic line trenches include homogeneity, soil compaction, and breadth. specifications for installing sewer or septic pipe into the trenches that have been excavated Size (diameter) and slope of the sewage line that should be used
• Avoiding rocks and voids, using sand, and shielding the new septic or sewage system from damage are all important considerations.

Safety of occupants and neighbors during excavation for sewer line repairs

When the plumbers finished their work, they left a hole in the ground that was a tripping hazard for anyone who happened to walk over it. Our quick impromptu danger indications (a few wood fence pieces and a laundry basket in the vicinity) were amateurish and unsecure, but at the very least we had a visual indication that there was something to be cautious of. We next proceeded on a quest for more durable materials to use to conceal the hole until the rest of the repair work could be completed.

Safety during sewer line trench excavation

In addition, when excavators were required to leave the site between project phases, the site was marked off with yellow danger tape connected to sticks during the excavation process. People who are at risk of falling into a ditch are also warned in this way, albeit in an amateurish manner. Do not leave any site excavations open and unattended; the dangers include harm as a result of someone falling in, as well as the possibility of pipe freezing in colder climes.

What is the proper slope for sewer lines between house and septic tank or sewer main?

It is preferable for sewage line trenches to have a constant slope, with a grade ranging between 2 percent and 10 percent grade – that is, the sewer line slope can drop anywhere between two and ten feet every hundred feet of run – rather than a steep slope. You can see that the slope of the sewer line down this hillside is far too steep. A problem (which is less prevalent in plastic pvc pipes than in cast iron pipes) is that the water and particles in the sewage do not remain together, resulting in solids remaining in the piping and clogging it.

Sewer Line Trench Details: uniformity, soil compaction

Ideally, the sewage line trench bottom should be appropriately and consistently sloped and compacted in order to prevent sewer line pipes from drooping or breaking, clogging, or piping failure. A virgin soil layer should be present at the bottom of the sewage line trench – it should not have been over-excavated. However, because trenching is a sloppy craft, certain trench portions may be irregular and deeper in some places than others. To minimize future sags, it is necessary to compress the dirt used as fill beneath the sewer piping in this situation.

In addition, if trenches are not dug below the frost line, wastewater resting in a low pipe sag in a cold region may freeze, causing the system to become completely inoperable.

The Alaska Septic Installation Manual recommends that sewage line trenches be as shallow as feasible in width and that plumbing be installed on undisturbed soil or compacted backfill dirt, according to the Alaska Septic Installation Manual.

Installing the replacement sewer line

Ideally, the sewage line trench bottom should be appropriately and consistently sloped and compacted in order to prevent sewer line pipes from drooping or breaking, blockages, or failures in the piping systems. There should be no over-excavation of the soil at the bottom of the sewer line trench. Given the harsh nature of trenching, some areas may be uneven and deeper than others, but this is to be expected. To minimize future sags, it is necessary to compress the soil used for fill beneath the sewer piping in this situation.

If trenches are not dug beyond the frost level, wastewater resting in a low pipe sag in freezing temperatures may freeze, resulting in a complete blockage of the system, resulting in a costly repair.

Question:

(2nd of February, 2012) Someone asked: What is the minimum size sewage drain line required by the International Building Code, and are 90-degree bends allowed under the code? Is there a limit to how many 90’s are acceptable? for example, 2 or 3?

Reply:

Whenever possible, plumbers avoid 90-degree angles on sewer lines because they tend to clog. Use a 45-degree angle, or two 45-degree angles if you need to make a 90-degree turn. More bends than are absolutely necessary also increases the likelihood of blockage.

Question:

When working on sewer plumbing, plumbers avoid 90-degree angles because they tend to clog more easily. a 45-degree turn may be made with one 45, or two 45-degree turns can be made with two 45-degree turns Increased bends above and above what is necessary increases the likelihood of blockage.

Question: connecting the new sewer line to a septic tank that was connected to terra-cotta piping

29th of March, 2015 joh hymanexplained: The terra cotta pipe that goes into the septic tank is 4 inches in diameter; how do you get it out of the tank? Is it possible to reduce the pipe size to three inches at the point where it enters the tank?

Reply:

Joh There is a good chance that an ancient portion of terra-cotta sewage line that enters the septic tank has been sealed with concrete. Terracotta, on the other hand, is fairly soft. You’ll need to take the following steps to get started: 1. After you have dug the tank to the point where you have enough working space, and ALWAYS WORKING ALONE since falling into a septic tank is typically fatal, you will chip off the old terra-cotta line using a hammer and a mason’s chisel. Of course, you should use goggles and other safety gear.

you will need to install a baffle or pipe tee in the tank (from the inside walll of the tank) (DO NOT ENTER A SEPTIC TANK OR LEAN OVER IT AS THIS CAN BE FATAL) The tank tee may protrude through the opened wall of the septic tank to provide a 3.

You’ll need to use a masonry sealer or cement to seal the area surrounding the pipe passageway.

Question: find the sepic tank cleanout port

Joh A concrete seal will most likely be found around any ancient segments of terra-cotta sewage line that enter the septic tank. Terracotta, on the other hand, is a very soft material. Following are the stages that you will need to complete: After you have excavated the tank to a depth sufficient for working, and remember to NEVER WORK ALONE IN A SEPTIC TTANK due to the high risk of drowning in a septic tank, you will chip away at the old terracotta piping. It goes without saying that you should wear goggles and other safety gear.

you will need to install a baffle or pipe tee in the tank (from the inside walll of the tank) (DO NOT ENTER A SEPTIC TANK OR LEAN OVER IT AS THIS CAN BE FATAL) The tank tee may protrude through the opened wall of the septic tank to provide a connection point outside 3.

Reply:

Beginning with SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND THEM, we will explain how to locate the septic tank in an ongoing series of articles. At that point, you just lift it up to reveal the cleanout port(s) in the tank’s top, and you’re done. If the tank is deep, discuss with your septic contractor the possibility of installing septic tank risers before re-burying it again to make the next cleanup simpler. Reading at BED the SEWER LINE in SAND Alternatively, choose a topic from the closely related articles listed below, or browse the entireARTICLE INDEX.

Article Series

• DESCRIBE HOW TO DIAGNOSE A BLOCKED DRAIN
• WHEN TO CALL A PLUMBER
• DISCOVER THE MAIN BUILDING DRAIN
• HOW TO USE A POWER SNAKE TO CLEAR A BLOCKED DRAIN
• WHEN NOT TO CALL A PLUMBER MAKE OTHER SEPTIC REPAIRS AND DETERMINE THE DISTANCE TO DRAIN BLOCKAGE
• DETERMINE THE NECESSITY OF DRAIN LIP REPLACEMENT
• REPLACE THE SEWER LINE, STEP BY STEP
• THE INSTALLATION OF A NEW SEWER LINE
• BEDDING THE SEWER LINE WITH SAND
• TRENCH FOR THE FINAL BACKFILL SEWER LINE
• LOCATION OF DOCUMENT BURIED COMPONENTS
• FINAL SEEDING AND RESTORATION
• SEWER / SEPTIC LINES ON STEEP SITES

Suggested citation for this web page

At Inspect A pedia.com, an online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive guidance is available: INSTALLING THE NEW SEWER LINE Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to DRAIN SEPTIC SEWER PIPES

Alternatives include asking a question or searching InspectApedia using the SEARCH BOXfound below.

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

We encourage you to use the search box just below, or if you prefer, you may make a question or remark in theCommentsbox below and we will get back to you as soon as possible. InspectApedia is a website that allows you to search for things. Please keep in mind that the publication of your remark below may be delayed if it contains an image, a web link, or text that seems to the program to be a web link. Your submission will appear when it has been reviewed by a moderator. We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience.

Technical ReviewersReferences

Please use the search box just below, or, if you prefer, you may make a question or remark in theCommentsbox below and we will react as soon as we can. Thanks for visiting! InspectApedia is a website that allows you to search for information. Please keep in mind that the publication of your Comment below may be delayed if it contains an image, a web link, or text that seems to the program to be a web link. Your posting will appear when it has been reviewed by a moderator. Excuse the delay in getting back to you!

installing drain piping on steep slopes

• In this section, you can ask questions and express your opinions regarding sewage or septic pipe lines on steeply sloping premises.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Installing or replacing sewer lines on steep hills is a challenging task. This article discusses the construction of drain lines on steep slopes between a house and a septic tank, as well as the maintenance of drain lines.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Guide to installing the replacement sewer pipe line at Steep Sites

Using real-world examples and photographs, we demonstrate how to diagnose and replace a clogged sewage line in an actual case study. Septic or sewage line blockage and backups may be prevented by having the proper drain line slope installed. In this section, we will talk about

• Septic pipe installed in a zig-zag pattern on steep hillsides
• Septic pipes with a U-turn on steep hillsides
• Septic pipework running parallel to the fall line of a slope Designing steep septic systems for sewer or septic pipe repair or new installations

When it comes to a drain waste pipe, what is the right slope or pitch to use? When wastewater travels at the proper pace via a drainpipe, the water transports solid waste, such as feces and toilet paper, as well as water, to a septic tank or sewage mains for disposal. Generally speaking, plumbing rules and wastewater piping guidelines state that building drains should be pitched at a rate of 1/8” to 1/4” of slope for every foot of linear length or distance. Problems associated with steep dips between the home and the septic tank include: A steep building site, such as the one depicted in our page top photograph, can result in a significant drop in elevation between a building main drain and the septic tank inlet opening (or sewer main connection), resulting in waste piping slopes that exceed the recommended limits for slope in the waste piping.

If waste passes through the sewage line at a rate more than 2 fps, there is a possibility that water will leave sediments behind in the pipe, resulting in recurring obstructions.

ZigZagging Drain Line Piping Down a Slope

zigzagging the pipe down a steep slope, making multiple bends, would be one method of reaching the required wastewater flow rate in a drain line down a steep slope. However, in my opinion, the increased number of turns and length of this approach may increase the likelihood of future sewer line blockages. Additionally, the zigzag drain line approach will make it more difficult to clean out blockages, and therefore you will need to include sewer line cleanout access points at every run and turn in the installation.

Straight-run Drain Line Piping Down a Steep Drop Slope between House and Septic Tank or Sewer Main

According to my observations, many waste line contractors simply establish a straight sewer line from the home to the septic tank or from the house to the sewage main, regardless of the building slope, as long as we have at least 1/8″ per foot, ideally 1/4″ per foot, or more, of water pressure. Drain lines with a lower slope or those are practically flat are more likely to clog. On a related note, if you’re building a drain line that may be too steeply sloped and you won’t be able to readily correct the problem, make sure to include extra cleanout access ports.

Experience in Installing Steep Sewer Drain Line Piping

It is my opinion that if the whole pipe run is steeper than what is generally specified, it is possible that you will never see a clog occur. The sewage line dips on a slope between 2″ and 3″ per foot over a 40-foot run between the home exit line and the septic tank entrance baffle at the property depicted in these images and in the other photos in this series on sewer line replacement, as seen in the other photos in this series. In order to avoid leaving particles behind while flushing the toilet, this house-to-septic tank drain pipe should be placed in the “risk zone.” However, after managing this property for more than two decades, we can confidently state that we have never had an issue with too-rapid drainage clogging the waste line.

Since we replaced the old clay plumbing with plastic piping, we have not experienced any sewage obstructions.

The black line on the right-hand pipe portion indicates to the installer when the pipe sections have been completely connected together.

The only issue we experienced with the line was when the previous clay line was smashed and subsequently became clogged with mud and other debris. SO If you use plastic piping, run it in straight lines, and make nice couplings, you should be able to get by.

Other Steps to Avoid Problems with Septic or Sewer Drain Lines on Steep Sites

• Cleanouts of septic tanks or sewer drain lines: I’d put external cleanout access ports on the sewage line every 20 feet or so for the sake of ease. Proper septic pipe hookups include the following: Ensure that the new pipe connections are made correctly, that they are lubricated, and that they are completely seated during the assembly process. The following are the proper sewage pipe directions: The receiving pipe hub, often known as the “female” end of the pipe, is located at the bottom of the following downhill segment. Make sure you don’t do this in reverse or you’ll attract leaks and blockage in your sewage system.

• Smooth drain line connections should be employed: the hub-less drain pipe connector shown in our photo was used to connect the new plastic waste line (which runs downhill to the septic tank) to the old cast iron waste line at the point where it exited the structure. These pipes needed to be correctly aligned (to avoid leaks at the connector) and their connections and pipe ends needed to be filed smooth in order to reduce the likelihood of waste line clogs at this point in the system.

Installing SepticDrainfieldPiping on Steep Slopes is a Different Matter Entirely

Please understand that we have examined the installation of solid plumbing between a building and its septic tank or sewage main in this articleand that higher slopes may be acceptable in some circumstances. However, the possibility of a “OK” for steep drain pipe does not apply in any manner to the perforated piping put in a septic drainfield gravel trench, which is a different story. Those looking for help on installing a septic system on a steeply sloping or rolling site should check out the following articles:

• For further information, see AEROBIC SEPTIC SYSTEMS, ATUs, and HOME – some of these systems can be used on steep slope locations. Or SeeHOOT Aerobic Systems Drip Disposal Design and Installation Guide for more information. Alternatively, see “Guidance for the Design, Installation, and Operation of Subsurface Drip Distribution Systems as a Replacement for Conventional Title 5 Soil Absorption Systems for the Disposal of Septic Tank Effluent,” published by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection in 2006 and refining Massachusetts regulations 310 CMR 15.240, 15.242, 15.247, and 15.280-15.289
• Or “Guidance for the Design, Installation, and Operation of Subsurface Drip Distribution Systems as SYSTEMS DE DOSAGE For hilly sites where the drainfield must be located either uphill or downhill from a septic tank or structure, PRESSURE is a term that refers to pressure dosing systems that may be beneficial for disposing of sewage. GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS – Other gravelless systems are capable of handling mild bends required to follow rolling slope lines
• However, some gravelless systems are not. A system that will be required when the elevation of a structure or a septic tank is lower than the elevation of the drainfield or sewer main is Septic pumps, sewage ejector pumps, grinder pumps, effluent pumps, sump pumps, septic pumping stations, and septic pump alarms Installation of septic drainfields on steep or rolling terrain is described in STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS, which is part of the SEPTIC DESIGNS section.

Reader Q A – also see the FAQs series linked-to below

@hello there, dude. Sweep turns with a wider radius (e.g., 2 45s) will often flow better than sharper turns. On a corner where the toilet waste flow is present. If trenching provides for 4″ deeper depth, is it preferable to construct the 90° corner with a 1° drop rate as normal, or is it preferable to make the corner with two 45° corners while lowering the 4″? Thanks@Ted, Start by consulting with your local building or health department to see what type of design would be considered suitable in your nation and neighborhood.

• We have a shortage of service personnel for upkeep, and I believe that a sprinkler system would be more beneficial to our grounds.
• Thanks@Ted That doesn’t appear to be a concern in my opinion.
• @inspectapedia.com.moderator, Yes, without a doubt, that is not hygienic.
• Thanks@Ted, In a situation when you are just transferring a cleared fluid, there should be no particulates left behind in the wastewater stream.
• That is a very other issue.
• What if it’s been sitting in a septic tank for a while, breaking down as if it were going to a leach field instead?
• That would be the material that would be sent to the aerobic tank.

You may be required to utilize a grinder sewage pump and force main; we are in the process of establishing a traditional tank close to our home.

What is the maximum percent drop per foot for the effluent line in terms of percent drop?

@Ted.

Thank you very much.

It goes without saying that such lines must have the proper pitch in order to reach the final position of the septic tank.

You should verify with your local building authority to find out exactly what is required to be placed at a 4 foot depth in your area.

My issue is, can I dig a smaller trench and then descend vertically to the requisite four-foot depth before finishing?

Thank you for the information, it was really useful.

What would be the best configuration for the septic tank and pipes when the designated drain field area is 500 feet away from the house?

The slope before and after the hill is rather level, descending very gradually in the direction of the drain field before becoming steeper.

A construction site located in a swale below the city sewer lateral service point has been identified as a potential concern.

(Let’s pretend it’s 8 feet below the surface) Is there an alternative to the brute force strategy of bringing in hundreds of cubit yards of fill and compacting it to raise the elevation of the construction site?

A septic tank is just 18 inches away from the building foundation, which is a little near.

Solids dropping vertically have the potential to adhere to and clog the pipe; however, employing 45-degree elbows instead of 90-degree elbows can help to mitigate this danger.

I would begin by having the tank examined to identify which items are most important in this order of significance.

A sound septic tank, as opposed to one built of brick or rusted steel; how well the baffles and protection from groundwater leaks are maintained; and how well the baffles and protection from groundwater leaks are maintained.

The quality and capacity of the drainfield are important considerations.

Is this a reasonable drop?

This is an ancient septic tank that I was allowed to utilize because of a grandfather clause.

What is the length of the pipe drop when the septic tank is 120 feet away?

How steep do the pipes have to be from one drop box to the next?

Does the length of the pipe, in addition to its angle of incline, have a limit in terms of length?

Please let us know if this is the case!

Verne, you have an issue with a septic or wastewater system that has too much downslope.

The difficulty with longer segments of excessive slope sewer plumbing is that the liquid waste will occasionally overtake the solid waste in the line, causing the system to back up.

One of the most valuable aphorisms I can share, at least in the context of the building construction and mechanicals fields, is that it is extremely uncommon to come into a situation that has never been experienced before.

According to one of the solutions described on this page, the sewage line is made even longer by zig-zagging across the steeply inclined areas of the land.

I’ll leave the graphic specifics to your imagination, so go ahead and go creative.

Let’s put the question to your septic installer and see what she has to say about it.

STATIONS FOR PULLING OUT SEWAGE Hello, I have a question concerning the installation of a toilet in a cabin that is around 300 feet from the main home, septic tank, and field.

Is too much slope a concern in this circumstance, given the considerable distance that the effluent must travel to reach the tank?

Do you think that building a sewage pump would make any difference in this circumstance, considering that the septic tank is located downhill from the toilet?

There should be a thorough inspection of the whole sewage line (perhaps using a sewer camera), and any slope issues should be addressed.

It’s always filled, no matter how long you wait.

Is it necessary to have the angle coming out of the home re-done?

What type of valve is used to connect the pump to the drain field?

Alternatively, seeSEWER / SEPTIC LINES for STEEP SITES FAQs- questions and answers that were originally placed at the bottom of this page. Alternatively, consider the following:

Steep Slope Septic System Articles

• SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
• SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN ALTERNATIVES-home
• SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN BASICS-home
• SEWER / SEPTIC LINES at STEEP SITES
• STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS
• SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
• SEPTIC CONSULT

Suggested citation for this web page

INSPECTION OF SEWER AND SEPTIC LINES AT STEEP SITES An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to DRAIN SEPTIC SEWER PIPES

Alternatives include asking a question or searching InspectApedia using the SEARCH BOXfound below.

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

We encourage you to use the search box just below, or if you prefer, you may make a question or remark in theCommentsbox below and we will get back to you as soon as possible. InspectApedia is a website that allows you to search for things. Please keep in mind that the publication of your remark below may be delayed if it contains an image, a web link, or text that seems to the program to be a web link. Your submission will appear when it has been reviewed by a moderator. We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience.

Technical ReviewersReferences

Citations can be shown or hidden by selecting Show or Hide Citations. InspectApedia.com is a publisher that provides references. Daniel Friedman is an American journalist and author.

How to Tie Into an Existing Septic Tank

Adding more input lines to your current septic tank is a viable option if your tank is working properly and is much below its maximum capacity for consumption. If you want to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. The difficulty of this work will be greatly influenced by the location of the new addition as well as the technique of installation employed for your existing systems.

Step 1

Determine the location of the drain pipe that runs from the present residence to the septic tank. This may be accomplished by locating the main drain line beneath your property and recording the locations where it passes beneath or through the foundation. Move along this line outside the house until you are roughly eight feet away from the house, then turn around. Continue digging until you reach the drain line. There should be no more than 24 inches in depth below the surface of the ground for the line, which should be a 4-inch pipe.

Step 2

You should dig until you have exposed roughly three feet of the drainpipe once you have found it and marked it with chalk. In addition, you will need to dig down a little bit to provide access all the way around the pipeline. To get to the start point of the new field line, dig a ditch from this point onward. This ditch should be constructed in a straight line and at a small gradient from the current drain to the starting point of the new drain system. Remove any big boulders or roots that may have accumulated in this ditch.

Step 3

PVC pipe sections of four inches in diameter should be laid from the new drain point to the old drain line. Before applying PVC cement, make sure that all pipe ends and fittings have been cleaned using PVC pipe cleaner. Connect the drain line to the new drain point, ensuring sure that all of the fittings are securely fastened to the pipe.

Once you have verified that there are no appliances running in the house, use the hacksaw to cut through the current drain line. Using a sharp knife, make two incisions roughly six inches apart. Clean both ends of the aperture thoroughly, removing any burrs or tiny bits of pipe that may have formed.

Step 4

Insert the tee fitting into the hole that you just made in the wall with your fingers. Because the drainpipe and fitting will be a very tight fit, you will need to flex the drainpipe and wedge the fitting into position. Before installing the fitting, thoroughly clean the fitting and pipe ends. You will need to move rapidly once the cement has been applied in order to get the fitting in place since the cement will harden very quickly. Make the necessary adjustments to the fitting so that the new intake is directly in line with the new pipe.

Check that all of the fittings are in place before back-filling all of the ditches.

How to Build a Septic Drain Field

Credit for the image: Panya /iStock/Getty Images Although it takes time to construct a septic drain field properly, the effort is worth it in the long run. Septic tanks have a lifespan of 15 to 30 years. Drain fields, also known as leach fields, do not persist for very long periods of time, unfortunately. A drain field can survive up to ten years if it is installed in a well-drained location with excellent ground absorption. Drain fields can be divided into four portions of 25 feet each, or two sections of 50 feet each, depending on the layout you select for your drainage system.

Step 1: Do Your Research

To find out whether a permit is necessary for the installation of an aseptic field line or whether the health department must examine the drain field during construction or after it is completed, check with your local county office and health department for further information. It is almost always necessary to obtain a permit and have your property inspected.

Step 2: Determine Soil Drainage/Absorption

In order to assess the soil’s absorption capacity, dig a hole in it. Soil testing may usually be performed for a minimal price by the local Department of Agriculture office if you live in a rural area. A drain field should not be constructed in an area with poor drainage. A septic drain field should be located 10 feet away from the house or any body of water, as well as 10 feet away from gardens and edibles.

Step 3: Locate Underground Utilities

Before you begin digging, contact a utility finding provider to ensure that you do not accidentally cut any underground utility lines while digging. Spray paint or flags will be used to designate the ground above any lines that are drawn by the firm. It is possible that you will be held accountable for the expense of restoring the cables if the lines are not clearly designated and one or more of them are severed because you did not have them marked.

Step 4: Dig Drain Field Trenches

It is recommended that each drain-field trench be at least 3 to 4 feet broad and 3 to 4 feet deep. For a 1,000-gallon septic tank, there should be at least 100 feet of drain field. This can be performed by digging four 25-foot-long trenches or two 50-foot-long trenches, as appropriate.

Each 8 feet of pipe should be placed in a trench with a modest downward inclination of no more than 1/4 inch per foot of pipe. A downhill slope that is too steep might result in drainage issues since the waste could pool at the end of the trench.

Step 5: Add Gravel and Perforated Pipe

Fill in the trench with a thick layer of gravel that is at least 1 foot deep and extends the length of the trench. It would be preferable to have one and a half feet of gravel. Place a perforated pipe into the trench on top of the gravel and join the pipe to the septic tank drain using a clamp.

Step 6: Add More Gravel

Another half-inch of gravel should be placed on top of the perforated pipe, with additional gravel placed around the edges. Septic fabric should be placed over the gravel to prevent loose dirt from entering into the rocks. Backfill the trench with the dirt that was previously taken from the trench by raking it up and into the trench. Approximately a week later, once the earth has had a chance to settle a little, pile some additional dirt on top of the trench in order to elevate the level of the soil until it is equal with the surrounding ground and to prevent rainfall from gathering in the depression.

SEPTIC PROBLEMS THAT CAN MIMIC DRAIN CLOGS

Your bathroom drains may be running slowly, and you may be thinking pouring some chemical drain cleaner down the drain to clear the clog. However, in these situations, rather than relying on potentially harmful drugs, it is always preferable to consult with medical specialists for a diagnosis. Instead of a simple clogged drain, you may be dealing with a plumbing vent problem, a sewer line problem, or a septic system problem instead. Learn about three septic issues that might manifest themselves in ways that are similar to drain obstructions.

1. An entrance baffle and an output baffle are standard features of a septic tank.
2. The intake baffle assists in the smooth entry of wastewater into the tank.
3. This form of obstruction, like a drain clog, will cause drains to slow down or stop completely.
4. 2.
5. In addition, there is the pipe that runs from your house to the septic system.
6. In addition to blockages, this main line is subject to earthquake damage, damage from huge machinery being driven over the region, and tree root damage, no matter what material it is constructed of.
7. Failure of the Drainfield It is possible that some homeowners are unaware that septic systems have a limited lifespan.

For this reason, you must have a reserve leach field site set aside when installing your sewer system, as mandated by federal laws.

One occurs when a large amount of solid waste is introduced into your system, causing them to get clogged to the point where they must be replaced.

Compaction is another issue that can cause a leach field to fail prematurely if it is not addressed.

Due to the fact that the field’s functioning is dependent in part on bacteria that require air in the soil to survive, this might render the region unusable.

Some of the symptoms of these three septic illnesses might be mistaken for those of a normal plugged drain in some cases.

Consequently, if you feel your drains are slowing down, get a professional to come out and take care of the problem.

Contact Upstate Septic Tank, LLC as soon as possible if you are in need of a diagnostic visit, sewer line cleaning, or a septic system cleaning and pumping. We’ll be pleased to assist you in keeping your septic system in the best possible condition.

How to Install a Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.

However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.

Steps

1. 1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. Afterwards, the relevant permissions and approvals can be sought by submitting the necessary paperwork.

• The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:

• Available space
• Terrain
• Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
• Location of the well and/or nearby wells
• And other factors.

The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:

• The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
• The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
• And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater

2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

1. 1 Assemble all of the equipment and tools that will be used in the dig. You will require the following materials:

• Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
• A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
• A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
• A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
• PVC primer and adhesive
• A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
• Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
• The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
• Shovel
• Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
• Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
• Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
• Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
• Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
• A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
• A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
• And a septic tank.

2 Determine the location of where you want to enter the building in relation to where you want to install the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.

• The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the necessary adaptor and pipe toward the tank with 3034 instead.

• Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
• Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.

3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, dig the hole to the desired depth.

• Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.

4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. There is no slope from one end of the perforated pipe to the other in a gravity drain field, and the pipe has capped ends. 5 Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank.

All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement

1. 4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required by most authorities. Maintaining the pipe’s stability is essential. Determine the size of embedment and gravel needed by consulting your local health department. There is no slope from one end of the perforated pipe to the other in a gravity drain field, and each end is capped. 5 Once you’ve received a green sticker from the health inspector, you may begin covering the pipe and tank. The use of a specific filter cloth, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper to cover the drain rock prior to backfilling will be required in all regions, depending on the laws of the local health department. Advertisement

• Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.

All construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the county health department. 3 Once the inspector has given his final permission and the system has been started, cover the tank and pressurized lines with plastic sheeting. Advertisement Create a new question

• Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
• It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
• Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
• Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

More information on the replies Inquire about something There are 200 characters remaining. Include your email address so that you may be notified when this question has been resolved. SubmitAdvertisement

• The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
• And

Thank you for submitting a suggestion for consideration! Advertisement

• Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

Advertisement

Things You’ll Need

• The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
• PVC pipe with perforations
• Material for embedding
• PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
• Course file
• Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.

About This Article

The writers of this page have together authored a page that has been read 499,072 times.

Did this article help you?