How To Punch Hole Through Septic Tank Base? (Correct answer)

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  • Using a tack or small nail, punch holes in each straw to allow drainage. e. Connect the field lines to the septic tank by inserting the unsealed end of the first straw into the hole in the quart carton.

How do I find the top of my septic tank?

You can locate the lid of your septic tank by poking the ground every few feet with a metal probe. Lids can be buried up to a foot deep on average, so be sure to investigate any bumps that may indicate something is buried underneath.

What can I use to break down my septic tank?

Hydrogen Peroxide This used to be a common recommendation to help break down the solids in your septic tank. It takes some time to be sure it’s properly diluted to use.

Does a septic tank have a bottom?

Septic Tank A buried, watertight tank designated and constructed to receive and partially treat raw domestic sanitary wastewater. Heavy solids settle to the bottom of the tank while greases and lighter solids float to the top.

How deep should a hole be for a septic tank?

The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.

Do septic tanks have two lids?

Locate The Lid A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

How deep are septic tank lids?

Often, septic tank lids are at ground level. In most cases, they have buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.

What eats waste in septic tank?

Large colonies of bacteria and enzymes in your septic tank keep the tank from backing up or overfilling. Enzymes go to work on the scum, and bacteria goes to work on the sludge. The microbes eat the waste and convert large portions of it into liquids and gases.

How long does it take for poop to break down in a septic tank?

The bacteria take 2-4 hours to germinate and then begin to break down solid waste. If the temperature and conditions are favorable, then the bacteria will multiply to the maximum level that the environment will allow in about 2-4 days.

How do you break up sludge in a septic tank?

How to Reduce Sludge in a Septic Tank Without Pumping

  1. Install an aeration system with diffused air in your septic tank.
  2. Break up any compacted sludge.
  3. Add a bio-activator or microbe blend.
  4. Maintain the aeration system.
  5. Add additional Microbes as required.

What are the signs that your septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

  • Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
  • Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
  • Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
  • You Hear Gurgling Water.
  • You Have A Sewage Backup.
  • How often should you empty your septic tank?

Can you walk on a septic mound?

Low-maintenance perennial plants that minimize the need to walk on the mound are ideal. Walking compacts the soil and may interfere with the evaporation of effluents. Do as little digging as possible when planting to avoid disturbing the mound and be sure to wear gloves to minimize your physical contact with the soil.

Should bath water go into septic tank?

In MOST household septic systems, yes. Probably 98%+ of septic systems receive all of the waste water from the house – tub, shower, sinks, washing machine, dishwasher, etc.

How deep are drain fields buried?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

Can a leach field be too deep?

Drain Field Depth The result is a drain field about 3 to 4 feet deep. Sometimes, however, a drain field may need to be a bit shallower and can result in drain pipes as close to the surface as 6 inches. Underground obstacles can cause this situation.

How long do septic tanks last?

A septic system’s lifespan should be anywhere from 15 to 40 years. How long the system lasts depends on a number of factors, including construction material, soil acidity, water table, maintenance practices, and several others.

Installing Access Risers

In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below. Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.

A few safety tips before you get started:

  • Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website
  • Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.

Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need

It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the internet. PVC risers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some of the brand names you might be familiar with include “Tuf-Tite,” “Polylok,” and “Orenco.” Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening without difficulty. Due to the fact that certain tanks have square openings, it might be difficult to fit a riser around the square entrance.

Some types of risers are made to order based on the height you want, while others are available in increments of 6-12 inches.

Then purchase an Adapter and Risers that are somewhat bigger in diameter than the hole.

See below for Step 4 on attaching risers to the tank entrance.

  1. Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)
  2. Riser Adapter Ring Kit
  3. Butyl Rope
  4. Risers
  5. Domed Lid OR Flat Lid
  6. Stainless Steel Screws

The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):

  1. As-built condition of the sewage treatment system The following items are required: sketch on paper, measuring tape, shovel, probing instrument, eye protection, and work gloves.

To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:

  1. Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws
  2. Raspor file
  3. Marking pen
  4. Tape measure
  5. Drill with a 1/4″ bit

Materials required to seal the risers to the tank include:

  1. High-strength concrete patch mix
  2. A small bucket
  3. A mixing stick
  4. And gloves

Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.

Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)

When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.

Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.

The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.

If you run into a power line, the consequences could be fatal. Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.

Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)

Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you generate a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).

  • You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.
  • Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
  • When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
  • Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).
  • If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
  • Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
  • Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.
  • Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
  • Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.

You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.

Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings

In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:

  • Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.

The distance between the ground and the top of the fiberglass plate should be measured. You may choose to place the risers so that they are level with the surface of the ground, or you may want them to stand out a few inches above the ground (if a riser is above ground make sure you are careful when mowing). Tips: To shorten a big riser with ribs, drill a 1/4-inch hole between the ribs above the cut line and finish the cut by following one of the grooves between the ribs with a saber/jig saw to finish the cut.

By eliminating one of the ribs from the largeriser, it may be made to fit more snugly into a smaller manhole entrance.

Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

  • Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
  • NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.
  • The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
  • If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
  • Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.
  • A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.

Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.

septic tank connection

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septic tank connection
Author:tpc1 (TN)I am building a detached garage which has a sink in it.The septic tank is between the house and the garage.I have plumbed a drain line through the brick to drop down and run directly to the septic tank. The drain from the house is on the other side of the septic tank.Is there a hole on all four sides of a septic tank to run a line through?Can I simply drill through the top side wall of the septic tank?How can I connect this drain to my septic tank without going around to the other side? Please help.Any information is greatly appreciated.
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Re: septic tank connection
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)tpcl,Typically, precast concrete septic tanks have one 4-inch inlet hole and one 4-inch outlet hole.For the installation of this new sink drain to be perfectly correct, you should go ahead and dig the trench that additional 10 feet or so, and then connect the new drain pipe to the 4-inch sewer pipe coming from the house.Cut in a 4-inch wye fitting into the 4-inch sewer pipe and then use the appropriate reduction fittings to accept the new drainpipe.Use a 4-inch Fernco coupling and a close nipple to insert the wye into the existing sewer pipeline.This approach is easier than trying to punch a small hole through the 3 or 4-inch thick concrete sidewall.Depending upon the condition and quality of the concrete in your tank, you may end up making a larger hole than needed.Pounding on the side of the tank with a hammer and chisel or even an impact hammer-drill could collapse the sidewall.If this happens, you will find yourself in “deep do do.”You may have to replace the septic tank.This is a lesson that was learned the hard way.If you decide to punch a hole in the side of the tank to insert the new drainpipe and if your septic tank has two compartments, be sure to locate the new hole so that the water will enter the first compartment of the tank.Good Luck!Post Edited
Post Reply
Re: septic tank connection
Author:hj (AZ)You can’t. You have to connect to the pipe from the house. Most septic tanks have a 6″ baffle pipe that the house sewer feeds into. Making a second inlet hole anywhere in the tank would bypass that baffle and create a lot of problems with the tank in the future.
Post Reply
Re: septic tank connection
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)Additional comment:hj is correct regarding the presence of the inlet baffle.Typically, modern concrete tanks are fitted with a 4-inch sanitary tee which acts as the inlet baffle.The importance of the inlet baffle in the performance of the septic tank, however, is a matter of debate.In my view, the only reason to install an inlet baffle is because most septic system regulations require an inlet baffle.I believe that directing the incoming sewage toward the bottom of the tank creates turbulance that resuspends already settled solids and therefor increases the suspended solids concentration in the effluent.If the inlet pipe just enters the tank horizontally above the scum layer, the scum layer dissipates the inrush turbulance and the sewage settles to the bottom of the tank gently.The septic tank that serves my home does not have an inlet baffle, and my system has been performing perfectly for 22 years.I removed the sanitary tee from the inlet pipe just as the health department inspector signed the final inspection line on my permit.He was aware of my action and was interested in knowing the validity, or lack thereof, of the theory.With the advent of septic tank effluent filters, the issue of the importance of the inlet baffle is moot.So if you wish to risk poking another hole into the side of the septic tank and create an additional sewage inlet in the first compartment, go for it.If you wish to comply with the septic system regulation in regard to the inlet baffle, then cement a tee on the end of the inlet pipe and then cement the pipe so that it extends 8 to 10-inches below the liquid level of the tank.Keep in mind that working inside of the septic tank is a nasty and dangerous proposition.
Post Reply
Re: septic tank connection
Author:tpc1 (TN)Thank you for all of your responses.I will run my drain around to the other side and connect it to the inlet line.
Post Reply
Re: septic tank connection
Author:hj (AZ)The purpose of the inlet baffle and it does not go down to the bottom of the tank is to create a “no flow” zone above that level. The influent enters the tank through the baffle and the heavier material settles to the bottom, but the lighter materials, i.e., grease and soap float to the top. The “clearer” water layer in the center is what will exit the tank as effluent. It is exactly like a very large grease interceptor, and the largest interceptors are actually a version of a septic tank.
Post Reply
Re: septic tank connection
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)hj, tpc1 has stated that he intends to connect his sink drain in the proper manner.Thank you tpc1 for acknowledging our responses and informing us of your intended course of action.I wish to continue our discussion of the importance and purpose of the inlet baffle in a septic tank.The original septic tanks, manufactured in the late 1800’s, mostly were single compartment tanks.Inlet baffles were designed for these tanks to prevent or reduce the potential for short-circuiting untreated sewage through the tank just as you have described.When two compartment tanks became the norm, the need for the inlet baffle became obsolete.The center baffle then provided and greatly expanded the “no flow” zone of which you speak.Single compartment tanks were the norm for many years so the requirement of the inlet baffle was important and was codified in The Manual of Septic Tank Practice, authored by engineers with the US Public Health Service (USPHS) in the 1940’s.Virtually all of the state septic system regulations are based on The USPHS Manual of Septic Tank Practice.When two compartment tanks became the required design, the “need” for the inlet baffle was removed but the “requirement” for the baffle remained in the regulations.I am aware that the bottom of the inlet baffle does not extend to the bottom of the tank, but when low profile tanks are used, the bottom of the inlet baffle is only 24-inches from the bottom of the tank.As the sludge accumulates, this distance slowly becomes diminished.As the sewage from a clothes washer, a dishwasher, a sewage ejector pump, or a modern large volume bathtub/spa flows into the septic tank, it will come into the tank at a greater velocity and volume than the sewage from toilets, showers, and lavatories.If the sewage is directed down toward the bottom of the tank through a 4-inch pipe, the inflow turbulence will resuspend already settled solids that will be carried into the second compartment of the tank, and possibly through the outlet tee of the tank. The suspended solids in the effluent will be applied to the leach field and will increase the formation of the clogging mat.If the leach field consists of a single trench or bed design, the leach field service life is quickly reduced.
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Building Near and Over Septic Tanks

Posted on a regular basis In most cases, minimum setback rules imposed by the Texas Commission on Environmental Equality (TCEQ) preclude the building of a new residence from occuring over any point of an existing sewage disposal system. Foundations, pools, property lines, wells, and other structures must be kept at a certain distance from the septic tank and drainfield in order to meet these setback requirements. It is possible that some homeowners will install objects such as patio decks or house additions over their systems, whether by accident or design.

Building over septic tanks

Construction of a building over any section of your septic system is not recommended. The most typical issue we see is when someone wants to pump out their septic tank but is unsure of where their tank is situated on their property. Tanks hidden beneath a hardwood deck, pool patio, driveways, or even room extensions are not unusual for us to discover and investigate. The majority of the time, this occurs because the homeowner is uninformed of the tank’s location and/or does not have a plan in place for future tank maintenance.

However, in this scenario, the homeowner will be able to pump out their septic tank because no permanent constructions should be constructed over any component of the system.

Building over drainfields

In order for the drainfield to function, water in the solids and some evapotranspiration must be absorbed. In order for bacteria in the soil beneath a drainfield to treat wastewater from a drainfield, the soil beneath the drainfield must have sufficient oxygen. However, if a permanent structure is constructed over a drainfield, it has the potential to reduce the amount of oxygen that can be absorbed by the soil and hence reduce evapotranspiration. The potential of causing the drainfield lines to collapse is a significant concern when constructing over them.

Depending on the age of your system and the restrictions of your local authorities, repairing or shifting your drainfield may need the installation of a whole new system.

We can assist you with any of your wastewater system needs, and our specialists can also assist you with your septic installation and maintenance requirements: 210.698.2000 (San Antonio) or 830.249.4000 (Austin) (Boerne).

Poly Septic Tanks vs Concrete: What They Don’t Tell You About Concrete Septic Tanks

The 6th of June, 2019 Septic Systems, CommercialOn-site septic systems are extremely crucial for both your business and your home’s health. When deciding on a polyethylene or concrete tank, it’s important to have a fundamental understanding of both, as well as their pros and downsides. This will help you pick the tank that best suits your needs while also saving you money on installation costs.

First and foremost, as previously said, there are two prominent types of materials that are employed in the construction of septic tanks. Concrete, which is both strong and heavy, and polyethylene, which is both strong and light in contrast. Concrete is the stronger of the two materials.

Septic Tank: Concrete vs Plastic

Despite the fact that concrete septic tanks are known to persist for a long time, they have a number of flaws, particularly when maintenance is neglected over time. If the quality is poor, they may even break during the manufacturing process. Advantages of a Concrete Septic Tank

Are said to be long-lasting with proper maintenance.

Disadvantages of Using a Concrete Septic Tank

As mentioned earlier, concrete septic tanks are heavy. Because of their heavy weight, they require different types of heavy equipment during installation, leading to more expense.

Poly septic tanks provide a number of advantages that exceed any potential disadvantages. Disadvantages of a Poly Septic Tank The fact that plastic septic tanks are lightweight and have the potential to “float” when water tables rise is perhaps the most significant reason why many object to their use (e.g. during extremely heavy rainfall). However, there are ways to avoid this from happening in the first place. The 2,200-litre poly septic tank built by Coerco. Advantages of a Poly Septic Tank

Poly septic tanks are watertight despite their lightweight quality.

It is undeniable that both concrete and polyethylene septic tanks require regular maintenance. When it comes to determining which type to choose, though, you might want to think about the long term implications of your decision. What modifications will be done to your property at that point? What about the costs of upkeep, removal, and relocation, for example? Septic tanks made of polyethylene are unquestionably the most trustworthy option if you’re looking for something that’s simple to maintain, install, and transport while also being quite reliable.

Wouldn’t you contact a firm that is competent, well-organized, and inventive and that can meet all of your commercial and household demands if you discovered such a company?

How much does a septic tank weigh?

And what is the significance of weight? Polyethylene septic tanks weigh roughly 200 kilos, but their concrete equivalents weigh approximately 1,500 kilograms, according to the manufacturer. The ramifications of having large septic tanks For many years, concrete has been the material of choice for septic tank construction. Concrete, on the other hand, is a fairly heavy substance. When it comes to establishing a septic system, this results in increased prices. Working with concrete septic tanks entails a number of expenses, the first of which is the purchase of a larger truck and a crane.

  • The ordinary poly septic tank, on the other hand, weights far less than the conventional cover for a concrete tank.
  • Is it possible to relocate a septic tank?
  • Given the weight and difficulty of moving some types of septic tanks – such as concrete – some people find it far easier to just purchase a new septic system rather than attempting to relocate a used septic system.
  • Notably, because of its weight and vulnerability to collapse, concrete septic tanks are a potential source of hazard for homeowners.

The 4,000-litre poly septic tank built by Coerco. It’s small and lightweight, and it’s simple to put together. Note from the editor: This piece was initially published on October 6, 2017, however it has been completely rewritten and modified for the aim of accuracy and comprehensiveness.

How to Install a Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.

However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.

Steps

  1. 1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.
  • The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:
  • Available space
  • Terrain
  • Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
  • Location of the well and/or nearby wells
  • And other factors.
  • The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:
  • The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
  • The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  • And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  1. 2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement

Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

  1. 1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:
  • Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
  • A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
  • A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
  • PVC primer and adhesive
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
  • Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
  • The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
  • Shovel
  • Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
  • Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
  • Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
  • Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
  • Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
  • A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
  • A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
  • And a septic tank.
  • 2 Determine the location of the entrance to the building in relation to the location of the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.
  • The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.
  • Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
  • Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.
  • 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the desired depth
  • Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.
  1. 4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
  2. Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement
  1. A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.
  • Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.
  1. Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement

Create a new question

  • Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
  • It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
  • Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
  • Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

Question I had a tank put, however it isn’t level with the surrounding ground. So, what will be the ramifications of this, and should the playing field be leveled? It is necessary to ensure that the tank is leveled before using it. Not knowing which direction it is off level makes it difficult to predict what will happen. Question Do I have to be concerned about tree roots coming into the drainage area if I use a gravity flow sort of tank? If there are any trees growing close or above your lateral lines, it will depend on their kind.

  • Due to the fact that they are buried deep and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely harmed by grass, weeds, and shrubs.
  • 12 volts are required by the vast majority of systems “the substance of stone Ideally, the perforated pipe should be hung from the rock’s uppermost part.
  • In order for your field to be able to breathe, brown or dead grass has been suggested.
  • Green grass covering your field allows it to breathe.
  • Question Approximately how far away from the house/boundary should a septic tank be?
  • This is the most frequent distance, however the legislation differs from one state to the next.
  • What you wear will be determined by how chilly it is outside.

It is dependent on whether you live in a place where the ground freezes or not.

None.

While the liquid effluent is being discharged to the drain field, the particles are being retained and pre-treated.

Question When I go to connect my septic field pipe to the tank, the pipes do not line up.

For as long as the downhill flow is good.

Question A septic system installation requires the services of an inspector at some point.

Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can fit your inspection schedule.

  • The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
  • And

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  • Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

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Things You’ll Need

  • The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
  • PVC pipe with perforations
  • Material for embedding
  • PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
  • Course file
  • Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.

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When considering the installation of a toilet on your septic system, it is important to check with the local construction authorities to ensure that you are permitted to do so. Depending on your jurisdiction, the size of your septic system is determined by the number of toilets you service, and exceeding this number without updating your tank or leach field is unlawful. Others, on the other hand, base system size on the number of beds and allow for the addition of numerous additional toilets as long as the number of people who use them does not rise.

The septic tank required for a single family house in Clackamas County, Oregon, for example, must have a minimum capacity of 1,000 gallons.

  1. Locate the lateral waste line, which runs from your home to the septic tank and back again. Despite the fact that it is underground, it is typically straightforward to discover after the septic tank has been identified. Finally, if everything else fails, you might go to the septic system schematic that is on file at the county planning office. Identify and plan the quickest path between the placement of your new toilet and the most convenient point of connecting to the lateral waste line. Depending on where you live, this connection point might be in the center of the yard, adjacent to your house, or even in the crawl space. If the pipe is in the yard, use a shovel to dig around it to expose it if it is hidden by vegetation. Never dig without first calling 811, which is the national call-before-you-dig phone number, to determine the location of underground utility lines. Using a drill and hole saw, create a 3-inch hole on the bathroom floor to accommodate the toilet. As mentioned in the toilet installation instructions, make certain that it is installed at the right distance from both the back and side walls. Install a toilet flange in the opening and secure it to the floor with a screwdriver. Plastic pipe cement should be used to attach a fitting to the flange that will allow you to route the waste pipe in the direction that it needs to travel. Extend the waste pipe to its tie-in point along the most convenient route, cutting pipe with a hacksaw and gluing fittings together with plastic pipe cement in many situations. Closet ells are the most common type of 90-degree drainage fitting. Strapping pipes to the floor joists that run horizontally under the house is an excellent way to keep them safe. Installing a 2-inch vent pipe will allow you to vent the toilet. A typical configuration is for it to rise from a T fitting in the waste line and extend upward to connect with the main vent stack. When employing 3-inch waste lines, the venting system must not be more than 6 feet away from the toilet flange to be effective. Under some conditions, it is acceptable to produce a wet vent through a sink drain
  2. Nevertheless, you should speak with your local building authorities and/or a plumber before proceeding. A vent T fitting should be used to connect the vent pipe to the main vent. The primary vent should be cut using a hacksaw, then glued in the T and the new vent pipe glued to the T. Glue in a Y fitting and glue the new waste pipe to the fitting to connect the toilet waste pipe to the lateral main sewer line.

Things You Will Need

  • Shovel, drill, 3-inch hole saw, toilet flange, closet fitting
  • And other tools. Plastic pipe cement, 3-inch plastic pipe and fittings, hacksaw, and other supplies are needed. Pipe straps
  • 2-inch plastic pipe and fittings
  • Vent T fittings
  • Y fittings
  • Pipe straps

Tip

Every point along the waste pipe’s passage to the septic tank must have a minimum 1/4-inch-per-foot slope to ensure proper drainage. Additionally, the vent pipe must retain the same minimum slope toward the toilet drain as it does toward the toilet. If you have access to a neighboring toilet, such as one on the other side of the wall or in an adjoining bathroom, you may be able to connect the waste line from that toilet to your own.

Warning

  1. Every point along the waste pipe’s passage to the septic tank must have a minimum slope of 1/4 inch per foot at all times. Additionally, the vent pipe must retain the same minimum slope toward the toilet drain as it does toward the sink. If you have access to a nearby toilet, such as one on the other side of the wall or in an adjacent bathroom, you may be able to connect to the waste line from that toilet.

Septic Tank Abandonment

“Whenever the use of an onsite sewage treatment and disposal system is discontinued as a result of connection to a sanitary sewer, as a result of condemnation or demolition, as a result of removal or destruction of a building or property, as a result of discontinuing use of a septic tank and replacement with another septic tank, the system shall be abandoned within 90 days and any subsequent use of the system for any purpose shall be prohibited.” THE ABANDONMENT OF THE SEPTIC TANK MUST BE COMPLETED WITHIN 90 DAYS OF THE CONNECTION TO THE PUBLIC sewage system.

The following are the procedures that homeowners must complete in order to abandon their system:

  • STEP 1: Get in touch with the utility’s customer service department to find out about sewer connection permits and hookup regulations.
  • STEP 2: Submit an application for an abandonment permission and wait for approval. There is a fee of $100.00 for the permission. It is possible to mail us the check for $100.00 in addition to the completed application for processing
  • We will call you by phone when it is available for pickup.
  • Staging the tank for pumping out by a licensed septage hauler and posting a copy of the receipt for this service along with the permit board in a protective plastic bag is the third step to taking care of the tank. The receipt will be collected by the Environmental Health Specialist at the time of the inspection.
  • STEP 4: Crush or collapse the tank in such a way that it will not be able to contain water any more, such as by punching a hole in the bottom of the tank or collapsing the tank’s sides. Owners (if they are still living in the house), certified septic installers, and licensed plumbing contractors are the only ones who may perform this service.
  • To avoid a safety danger, fill the leftover hole with clean sand or other acceptable material. Then grade and stake the tank location.
  • STEP 6: Once all of the above steps have been completed, please contact Environmental Health at 690-2100 to schedule an inspection or for further information about the procedures.

While using a commercial septic system, grease traps will continue to function as part of the building’s sewerage system and will not be removed from service.

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