How To Make Septic Tank Lids With Hooks? (Best solution)

  • Step 1 Draw a line in the center of the lid from end to end. Step 2 Measure 6 inches from one of the edges of the lid straight down the center line. Step 3 Align the U-bolt so that it straddles the center line with equal distance on each side of the line.

What can I use for a septic tank lid?

The Do’s For Hiding Your Septic Tank

  • Plant tall native grasses with fibrous roots around the opening to conceal the tank lid from view.
  • Place a light statue, bird bath or potted plant over the septic lid.
  • Septic tank risers and covers are an alternative to concrete and blend into green grass.

Should septic tank lids be airtight?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

How deep should a septic tank lid be?

Dig Up The Lids In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.

How thick is a septic tank lid?

The exterior walls of the septic tank are made of concrete, normally 4 inches thick. The concrete is either a minimum of 4,000 or 5,000 PSI concrete.

How many lids do septic tanks have?

A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

Why does my septic tank have 2 lids?

Solid, watertight, buried tank made of concrete, plastic, fiberglass or metal. This tank has a way in (inlet), and a way out (outlet). So, most residential tanks should have (2) lids about 5′ away from each other. A septic tank holds all the liquid waste from your home (toilets, sinks, kitchen, bathtubs, floor drains).

Is it OK to cover septic tank lids?

If you have a traditional septic system, the tank should be pumped every 3-5 years. That means that the septic lids should be accessible every 3-5 years. You can use almost any temporary, movable objects to cover your lids, like: Mulch (but not landscaping)

How do you seal a septic tank outlet?

The tar sealant can be used to fill the void between the concrete and pipe. Use a trowel to press the sealant into the void. If the rubber gasket is molded into the tank for the pipe, tighten it up.

What causes a septic tank to collapse?

Once a tank is emptied of water, it is much more prone to collapse. That is because the pressure of the surrounding soil is no longer counter-acted by the water inside the tank. Regular maintenance and proper user behaviors will keep your septic tank working properly for years without major issues.

How do u know your septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

  1. Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
  2. Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
  3. Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
  4. You Hear Gurgling Water.
  5. You Have A Sewage Backup.
  6. How often should you empty your septic tank?

How far apart are septic tank lids?

The distance between lids will be different for each sized tank: 1000 gallon tank = 6-6.5 ft.; 1250 gallon = 7-7.5 ft.; 1500 gallon = 8.5-9 ft.. Dig up the outlet chamber access lid. If you are extraordinarily lucky, the as-built drawing is accurate and you have hit the lids spot on.

How often should you pump out a septic tank?

Inspect and Pump Frequently The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.

How to Make a Handle for a Septic Tank Lid

  • Tools: Drill, concrete drill bit, U-bolt, 4 inches by 2.125 inches, 2-inch washer, permanent marker

This is a concrete drill bit that is used to drill a hole in concrete items. Some of the bigger septic tank lids are equipped with handles that make it easier to remove and reinstall the lid. If your septic tank lid does not have handles, you may install them to make it easier to remove the lid when it is not in use. It is possible to grab the lid with your hand or to attach a chain to the handles and use a backhoe to lift the lid out with the handles attached.

Step 1

Draw a line through the center of the lid, from one end to the other, from end to end.

Step 2

Measure 6 inches down the middle line from one of the lid’s edges, starting at one of the lid’s edges.

Step 3

The U-bolt should be aligned such that it straddles the center line with an equal distance on either side of the center line.

Step 4

Mark the position of the holes on the lid by drawing a circle around the end of the U-bolt.

Step 5

Drill the holes in the designated area with a drill bit.

Step 6

Take the thickness of the lid and multiply it by one inch.

Step 7

Assemble the U-bolt by tightening the nut down until the length of the threads is the same as the distance calculated in the previous step.

Step 8

A 2-inch washer should be added on either side of the U-bolt.

Step 9

Insert the U-bolt into the holes in the lid that have been bored.

Step 10

Using a 2-inch washer and a nut, attach one side of the U-bolt on the bottom of the lid to the other side.

Step 11

Using a wrench and socket, tighten the nut down.

Step 12

Following the techniques outlined above, attach a second U-bolt to the other side of the lid.

Tip

During the drilling process, back out the drill to remove any extra concrete debris from the hole at intervals.

Warning

Keep the drill bit steady while drilling in order to avoid damaging the piece. To avoid corrosion, only stainless steel bolts should be used.

Procedure for Opening Septic Tanks

  • ASK a question or make a comment about how to open a septic tank safely and properly for inspection or cleaning.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Instructions on how to open the septic tank. The location of the septic tank cleanout or cover, as well as the access and opening processes. We discuss some of the things to look for before opening the septic tank, such as subsidence, indications of recent work, and septic tank coverings that are not suitable to use. Then we demonstrate how to remove the septic tank lid or the access port cover from the tank.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page.

Procedures for Safe Opening of a Septic Tank, Cesspool, or Drywall for Inspection or Cleaning

The following are the contents of the article:

  • How to remove the lid from a septic tank
  • When it comes to pumping out the septic tank, which septic tank entrance should be used? Why

In this septic tank pumpout article series, you’ll learn how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks, as well as how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks using photos.

In addition to septic pumping tank truck operators, this guideline is meant to provide basic information to homeowners and septic service providers that are concerned about septic system maintenance.

  • There is a risk of dangerous, perhaps deadly collapse due to subsidence (depressions or low regions in the earth) near the location of the septic tank. Evidence of recent construction activity that may necessitate further investigation in order to determine the status of the septic system
  • Backup or effluent breakout at the surface of the ground in the septic tank region.
  • Here is an example of a septic tank cover that was discovered atop an unstable home-made collection of concrete blocks that had been piled by the owner to serve as an access well to his septic tank. Because the masonry blocks were misaligned and loose, and because the tank aperture into which the cover opened was bigger than the cover, there was a serious collapse risk that may have resulted in a deadly hazard. We covered the area with plywood and roped it off, and we quickly informed the residents and the property owner of the situation, both verbally and in writing

Procedure for Opening the Septic Tank Pumping Access Port

It is necessary to clean the septic tank using a cleanout port, which is normally positioned in the center of the tank. A small access opening, such as one over an intake or outlet baffle, does not provide enough space for adequate sludge removal from the septic tank bottom, and it increases the likelihood of future clogging of the tank’s inlet or outlet due to partially removed floating scum that has not been completely removed from the tank bottom. In this particular scenario, we already had the measurements to the exact placement of the septic tank cleanout cover due to previous work.

A wrecking bar is set to be used to remove the cover from the vehicle.

Reader CommentsQ A

@Ron, In order for a concrete septic tank lid to be correctly erected, it must feature both access openings and cast in iron loops to which a hoist may be attached. Alternatively, if your septic tank cover does not have those points of purchase for lifting, you will require a flat bar and a larger wrecking bar to pry up the excavated lid from the septic tank sufficiently to allow you to put a chain around the lid, most likely two Chainz, and lift the lid with a hoist and tripod mechanism or you will use an on-site motorized hoist.

  • 1/2 x 27/4 removing the top of a septic tank @Phil, Although what you describe is theoretically doable, it may be less expensive and more rational to do so in a different way.
  • This is due to the fact that just stitching a circular hole does not ensure that I am creating a hole through which the lid will not be dropped.
  • Edge My concrete septic tank, which was constructed when the home was built in 1979 and does not have any manholes or openings for pumping out, is in poor condition.
  • Is it feasible to cut two manholes using a concrete saw that are 20″/24″ in diameter and then build risers and a cover on top of them?
  • Could you please share a picture of the tank top?
  • It is common for the concrete top to be tapered; nevertheless, it may just be trapped by effloresent salts and filth.
  • I have a feeling that simply tugging will not be effective.

This would have stopped leaks but would have made it extremely difficult to open the tank for the next person who needed to open the tank.

Repeat this process many times all around the cover’s perimeter.

For me, this has worked almost every time in the past.

It is recommended that you build a septic tank riser that is sealed to the tank top, as well as a new secure cover on top of the riser if your septic tank lid is not near to the ground level.

Never work on your own.

I’ve erected two wood 4x4s on top of the lifting ring to provide additional support.

All I’ve done three times is shattered those 4x4s.

Do you have any recommendations?

A septic tank pumping provider can remove plastic bags, tiny pebbles, and other debris from your tank, as well as the sediments, scum, and sludge that has accumulated there.

What is the best way to get them out?

When the septic tank is drained out, would it make sense to place a plastic bag over the top hole of the tank to keep the odors contained?

Gerard A plastic bag as a sewer line cap doesn’t seem right to me – it’s not durable, it’s the incorrect material if a cover is required, and if it’s a vent rather than an access pipe, the vent must be open to the atmosphere and protected from animal intrusion.

What is the function of this item?

A typical septic tank is equipped with clean out access covers that are strategically placed.

See also:  Where Do Septic Tank Pumpers Dump The Waste? (Solution found)

Maybe something as basic as a flat piece of concrete or stone will be sufficient, or maybe something more complex.

To be quite honest, I would have expected the contractor who dug the hole to be accountable for ensuring that the system was repaired and safe.

What should I do to solve it?

What store would I go to in order to acquire septic tank covers?

A few years ago, I had a beautiful new house built for me.

I have three plastic polylok lids, one of which is above ground and is for the pump.

I’d like to purchase risers so that I may build all three at a depth of around 6 inches below ground level.

What are the advantages and disadvantages.

Do you have any other suggestions?

I apologize for the lengthy post.

Sorry, but “True Bolt” isn’t a phrase I’m familiar with or associate with septic tank lids in any way.

Although this is not always the case, Mary, as the pumper may be able to access the entire tank bottom from a single opening depending on the tank’s size and shape; however, if your pumper is unable to do so from a single opening, you may want both openings opened to inspect the condition of the tank baffles.

There are two holes in my septic tank. Is it necessary to open both doors for a pump out?

Question:cannot find the manhole cover of the septic tank

(8th of August, 2014) “We’ve located the cesspool concrete lid (about 12 foot diameter), but after digging a 2 foot perimeter, we were unable to locate the manhole cover, which was required for an inspection.” vicki levin stated Help? My husband is becoming increasingly upset with the digging!

Reply:

If it’s a cesspool, rather than a septic tank, and it’s spherical, the access lid is normally located in the center of the container.

Question: how do i remove septic tank lid that is stuck

The entrance lid would normally be in the center of the cesspool, if it is in fact a cesspool rather than a septic tank, and it is spherical.

Reply:

Anon:WARNING: If the septic tank cover, lid, or access aperture has partially caved in or sank into the tank, the condition is extremely dangerous – an unsecure cover implies that someone might fall into the tank, which is generally lethal very quickly. Please keep everyone away from the septic tank area until such time as you have had the tank inspected and opened for additional inspection by a professional. Depending on the tank type and condition, lifting the lid may necessitate the use of a pry bar or wrecking bar, as well as a small portable winch (which is unusual).

Alternatively, consider the following:

Septic Pumping ProcedurePumper Truck Operation Articles

  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION
  • MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • HOW TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN NOT TO PUMP A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO FIND A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK
  • INSPECT THE SEPTIC TANK BEFORE PUMPING
  • SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE
  • SEPTIC TANK LEVELS OF SEWAGE
  • PUMPER TRU

Suggested citation for this web page

HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK at Inspect a Tank An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

We encourage you to use the search box just below, or if you prefer, you may make a question or remark in theCommentsbox below and we will get back to you as soon as possible. InspectApedia is a website that allows you to search for things. Please keep in mind that the publication of your remark below may be delayed if it contains an image, a web link, or text that seems to the program to be a web link. Your submission will appear when it has been reviewed by a moderator. We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience.

Technical ReviewersReferences

Citations can be shown or hidden by selecting Show or Hide Citations. InspectApedia.com is a publisher that provides references. Daniel Friedman is an American journalist and author.

Septic Tank Covers or Lids

  • Send us your question or comment on septic tank covers, including their strength, collapse, or safety issues
  • We’ll get back to you as soon as we can.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Covers and apertures for septic tanks, as well as access ports: We present a guide to septic tank covers, including information on where to obtain them, what they are, and how to keep them secure. Assuring that the septic tank lid is in good working order. Find out where to check for septic tanks, septic tank covers, and septic tank cleanout lids in your home.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Septic Tank Covers

What is the depth of the Septic Tank Cover once the Septic Tank has been identified? Is the cover in good condition?

Septic Tank Cover Depthlocation

Tank Cover Depth: How deep will the septic tank cover be is a question that many people ask. Most of the time, the top of the septic tank is roughly one foot below the level of the ground. However, the depth of the water fluctuates greatly. The septic cover, on the other hand, can be several feet deeper. If you take note of the depth at which the waste line leaves the building foundation wall, for example, 3 ft. below the top of the soil (grade level), and if the site were dead flat and the tank were located 12 feet from the foundation wall, at a typical waste line slope of 1/8″ to 1/4″ per linear foot of run, the septic tank’s entry port for the waste line would have to be approximately 3 ft.

If the site were dead flat and the Obviously, if the site is not flat, these septic tank cover depth estimates would be different than before.

Septic Tank Cover Safety Procedures

Take extreme precautions to ensure that the coverings and cleanout access covers over the septic tank are secure and long-lasting, so that it will be difficult for someone to fall into the tank (which is sometimes deadly), and that children will not be able to remove the cover. If your septic tank is located in a location where vehicles may drive over it, heavy-duty rated covers are available for your convenience. This is something you should discuss with your septic tank contractor. Even if there is the slightest doubt about the condition of the septic tank cover (for example, if there is evidence of subsidence over the tank location), you should cordon off the area and prevent anyone from walking over it, because falling into a septic tank is extremely dangerous and could result in death.

  • See HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK for instructions on removing and replacing septic tank, cesspool, or drywell covers. DISCONNECT THE SEPTIC TANKS using different articles
  • Refer to SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS for information on sewage treatment plant cover strength and vehicle loads, information that is also applicable to cesnpools, drywells, and other similar structures.

Reader Question: septic tank cover collapse

11/28/2014 The following is what Scott C. said:I have a septic system that is powered by a pump tank. The weight of the dirt beneath which the lid was buried caused the lid to fall. There were around 3’2″ of them “because of the clay type dirt that the installer used to cover it The thickness of the lid is four millimeters “. Is that up to par for a soil with so much organic matter? –

Reply:

11/28/2014 My septic system has a pump tank that is powered by electricity. Scott C. said: The weight of the dirt beneath which it was buried caused the lid to collapse. In all, there were 3’2″ “It was covered with a clay-type dirt by the installer. There are four layers of material in the lid “, What is the quality of that soil in comparison to the rest? –

Reader Question about septic tank cover security regulations in Alberta

04/30/2015 Septic Tank Lids made the following statement: Could you possibly provide me with information on the regulations governing septic tank lids in Alberta? We have a concrete BellSiphon, and I’ve noticed that the lower and smaller lids (one from each compartment) are being left at the top of the bigger lids, as well as beneath a cover on our concrete patio. Is this normal? When I confronted the owner of the pump truck firm, he responded by saying “Because they are a nuisance, that is an excellent location for them to be.

as well as the metal hooks snapping.

We’ve had the same tank system for 40 years and have always had it covered.

Thank you so much, Jane. Gravity/Siphon Dosing Systems was the site where this query and response were initially submitted.

Reply:

STL: Here is an excerpt from the Alberta septic tank code for your information. 3.1.2.3. Lid/Cover Opening with Easy Access 1) All access holes must be provided with a secure lid or cover to prevent unauthorized access. 1 One purpose of this regulation is to promote safety by prohibiting unauthorized or inadvertent entrance into the access aperture of a septic tank or holding tank. Sentence (1) explains how this regulation works. The use of a padlock and a cover that can only be removed with tools are examples of acceptable protective measures, as is the use of a cover that weighs a minimum of 29.5 kg (65 lb).

The following further comments on these techniques is provided in the handbook: It is critical that the lid or cover of the manhole access aperture be securely fastened in order to prevent someone from accidently falling into the tank below.

When the access lid is first installed, it must be secured; it is then the owner’s obligation to ensure that it stays secure on an ongoing basis.

In summary, if the lid over your septic tank can be lifted by a child, the chance of someone falling into the tank is high, as is the possibility of a swift and horrible death.

  • Source:ALBERTA PRIVATE SEWAGE SYSTEMS STANDARDS OF PRACTICE, 2009 HANDBOOK, obtained on April 30, 2015, and updated on March 18, 2018, from the original source:Public/Documents/PSSSOP Handbook Version 12 Online Feb 21 2012b.pdf

Reader Question: how do I cap this wiring conduit at my septic tank cover?

2013/0318 NT inquired:Our dogs have pulled what looks to be a portion of our septic system that was obstructing electrical wires. What is the best location to look for a replacement? NT, a reader, sent this photograph.

Reply: proper conduit and exterior electrical boxes are required for outdoor septic pump wiring

NT: When I look at your photo (above), the white plastic “tube” appears to be a riser conduit for septic pump or alarm wire. I’m not sure if it’s a product specifically developed for that use or if it’s a homemade couduit produced from downspout material. I would start by contacting your septic installer or maintenance firm to find out what type of material they used. This may save you a lot of time digging around in your yard. In the meanwhile, make sure you cover the top of the conduit with a tarp or other temporary cover to keep rainfall out.

Keep an eye out: I have my doubts about whether or not the conduit utilized was appropriate and certified for electrical wiring.

The figure on the right illustrates what I am referring to: the use of specified components for subterranean and outdoor electrical wiring with a riser that is elevated above the ground.

An extract from a lecture on safe installation techniques given by the Chippewa County Health Department in Michigan was used to create this picture.

  • In the book PUMP CONTROL SYSTEMS, FLOATS, PANELS AND INSTALLATION, by Matt Johnson, Chippewa County Health Department, 508 Ashmun Ave., Sault Ste. Marie, MI 49783, obtained on 20 March 2018, from the following URL: www.chippewahd.com/cms/lib/MI17000311/Centricity/Domain/105/Control % Matt Johnso is responsible for the installation of the panels and for the installation of the panels.

Reader Q A – also see the FAQs series linked-to below

Jonathan You will need to excavate just enough of the septic tank to be able to estimate the measurements of the tank cover, at the very least at the corners. Meanwhile, if the tank cover is destroyed, be sure to rope off the area and keep people away from the area since if someone falls into the tank, they would die quickly and horribly. I jumped over the concrete cover and fell to the ground. What is the best way to determine what size I require? Janet The replacement lid needs to be safe (falling into a tank is lethal), which means it needs to be robust and it needs to be secured to the tank’s top.

  • Yes, it is technically conceivable.
  • Do you have a pad for sale, or do you know where I may get a hold of one?
  • One of the lid’s corners split and dropped into the tank, creating a hole in one of the corners.
  • Perhaps there are sewer fly problems because the top of the tank is not properly sealed?
  • 1.
  • 2.
  • The PVC vent cap to which you refer is suitable for use as a cleanout access cap, however it does not function as a ventilation cap.
See also:  Septic Tank Bacteria How It Works? (Best solution)

A cap is something I’m seeking to put on – does it need to be vented or slotted?

Thanks!

We do not offer any products for sale.

Do you have a septic tank lid that is sagging?

We do not offer any products for sale.

Do you have a septic tank lid that is sagging?

Root-X will not repair or assist in the treatment of your septic system; for further information, visit SEPTIC TREATMENTS in theARTICLE INDEX.

If this is not done, the problems will recur and you’ll run the risk of both contamination of the local environment and septic failure that backs up into your home.

Please notify me and upload a snapshot of what you have discovered so that we may discuss it further.

It is usual for a septic tank to have some floating particles, such as the following: excrement and toilet paper, as well as lumps of grease, are OK; however, bits of wood or roots are not.

Throughout my system, I have four green circular covers.

I’m confident that it is an aerobic system.

My home is just around 14 years old, and I have heard that having four covers indicates that it is a newer variety.

I’d want to know what’s going on in each tank, what appears to be normal, and what might cause me to be concerned about the status of my tank.

They came out and cleaned up what they could before telling me that they would pump it all out if there were roots uncovered.

Approximately four weeks later, it began to burp once more.

Tank one had a large clump of roots floating about, which I removed; tank two appeared to be in fine condition.

I took out those portions of text.

The burping has subsided once more.

When they drained it out, I was wondering why there were so many chunks floating about.

I’m having trouble finding anything on Google.

1.

2.

3.

However, I suspect the time, trouble, and cost of doing so will be comparable to the cost of purchasing a new concrete cover from your local septic supplier.

In addition, I have another spherical concrete one that is located over the sewage pump tank.

I think what I’m asking (and what you probably won’t be able to truly provide me with) is a way to cover it now that the area has only been excavated down a foot or so, but rain and sand are going to seep into it.

Continue reading atSEPTIC TANK OPEN, HOW TO, or choose a topic from the closely-related articles listed below, or see the completeARTICLE INDEX for a comprehensive list of articles.

Alternatively, visit the SEPTIC TANK COVER FAQs- a collection of questions and answers that were originally placed on this page. See these SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS for further information.

Key Septic Tank CoverOpening Articles

  • ACCIDENT REPORTS FOR SEPTIC TANKS
  • SEPTIC TANK COVERS
  • SEPTIC TANK DEPTH
  • SEPTIC TANK DESIGN STRENGTH SPECS
  • SEPTIC TANKS FLOATING UP
  • SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND
  • SEPTIC TANK OPEN, HOW TO
  • PUMPING SCHEDULE FOR SEPTIC TANK
  • SEPTIC TANK RISERS
  • SEPTIC

Suggested citation for this web page

COVERINGS FOR SEPTIC TANKSatInspect A pedia.com is an online encyclopedia of building and environmental inspection and testing. It also provides diagnostic, repair, and issue avoidance information. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property.

Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska. The majority of them are between 10 and 25 feet distant. Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

COMMON PROBLEMS — JT’s SEPTIC

You should examine the sewer cleanout on the exterior of the home if you are hearing gurgling and all of the house fixtures are clogged. This is often a black 3-4 in color “inch ABS pipe with a threaded cap is available. Remove the cap (WARNING: BE CAREFUL! (WARNING: IT MAY CONTAIN SOME PRESSURE!) : Assuming the sewage line is completely dry, you will have a clog inside the home plumbing, directly in front of the cleanout valve. Make a phone call to a plumber and have them rooter the line. Sewer line cameras are available from several rooter/plumbing businesses.

You have two options at this point: call your preferred septic provider or pull up the tank lids yourself and check the water level and solids content in the tank yourself.

Most tanks erected after January 2001 include a filter that has to be cleaned at least once a year (we clean filters—please call us).

We’ll even notify you once a year when it’s time to clean your filters!).

You should contact your favorite plumber if only one or two fixtures are clogged (for example, one toilet or a specific sink or shower). It’s likely that you have a blockage in your sewage system. In the event that your septic tank is backing up, we can assist you!

GURGLES

Whenever you flush the toilet, the water gurgles, the toilet takes an unusually long time to flush, or the water in the shower turns brownish after you have done the laundry, you are receiving a subtle indication that trouble is brewing. In order to determine when the tank was last pumped, look through your records and then contact your preferred septic provider for assistance.

ODORS

If you are experiencing unpleasant odors within your home, such as rotten eggs, it is likely that a trap or vent inside your home is not venting correctly. Call your plumber right away since these gases are harmful to both people and animals!

ODORS OUTSIDE IN THE YARD

At times, the smells emanating from the roof vents will seep into the yard due to meteorological conditions. Make use of a plumber to elevate the roof vents and/or to place a charcoal filter in the vents, as needed. It’s important to remember that your septic tank is vented via the roof.

SURFACING IN THE YARD

If you notice effluent appearing in your yard, contact your septic service provider immediately. If you see this, it indicates that your leach line has failed and you should get help right away.

HEAVY SOLIDS- OVERDUE FOR PUMPING

Contrary to common perception, you DO need to have your septic tank pumped on a regular basis. Pumping maintenance should be performed on a regular basis, otherwise your system will get overwhelmed with solid waste and eventually cause damage to your leach lines. DON’T MAKE THIS HAPPEN TO YOU! This is an extreme example of a tank that is overflowing. There is sewage flowing from the tank access holes and into the yard!

grease build up in sewer pipes

Fats and grease should never be flushed down the toilet or sink. They have the potential to harden the lines and cause failure; they have the potential to generate an excessive buildup of the floating scum layer in the septic tank; and they have the potential to go into the disposal regions and adjacent soils and completely block the system off. A shattered lid can pose a serious threat to both animals and children. It is conceivable that they will fall through the cracked or broken lids and will not be noticed until it is too late to save themselves.

See also:  How Was A Septic Tank Built In 1990? (Perfect answer)

crushed or settled pipe

This is the second most prevalent problem we notice in septic systems that are less than 10 years old. In addition to blocking flow, loose fill soil surrounding the tank is causing a backup into the house since it is pulling the pipe with it as it settles. We have even observed instances when contractors installing new systems do not correctly pack the fill earth below the pipe, resulting in pipe settlement on systems that have not been utilized or have only been used for a short length of time (see below for an example).

SEWER OUTLET PROGRESSION

When it comes to modern septic systems, this is the most typical issue we encounter. Take note of the fact that the unsupported outlet pipe is being driven down by settling dirt.

Watch as the water level in the tank rises, forcing the flow of water in the inflow sewage line to slow. This will eventually result in a clog in the inflow sewer line at some point. The solids flowing down from the house will not be able to enter the tank correctly because of the high water level.

examples of settled sewer pipes:

INSTALLATION OF A TANK AND/OR REPAIR OF SEWER PIPESTHE “POLY” PIPEIMAGES BELOW PROVIDE AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT PIPENOTTO USES WHEN INSTALLING A TANK AND/OR REPAIR OF SEWER PIPES However, despite the fact that this grade of sewer pipe is less expensive at the time of purchase, it might end up costing you a lot of money in the long run!

settled inlet sewer pipe on unused system:

Even if the septic system has not been utilized in some time, it is conceivable that problems will be discovered during the inspection process. Pipes might settle on unoccupied ground and in yards as a result of faulty installation and/or automobiles and/or ATVs running over the pipes without realizing they are there. It may be beneficial to all parties to have a skilled inspector take a look at the system and diagnose any concerns, even though the County does not require an examination on an underused system before transferring ownership.

Roots growing in and around the septic tank:

In addition to disrupting the system by clogging or destroying drainage and distribution lines, tree roots can also enter the tank, causing it to leak. Foul odors, poor drainage, and patches of vegetation in the leach field are just a few of the signs that you may have a root problem.

ERODED BAFFLES

Solids are kept in the septic tank and away from the disposal area with the use of concrete baffles. Using baffles to reduce agitation of wastewater entering the septic tank and prevent particles from escaping the tank and entering the drainfield, baffles can assist avoid drainfield damage and extend the life of the drainfield. If the baffles are broken, missing, or have never been placed, the drainfield’s life expectancy will be reduced significantly. Baffle repair normally entails the placement of a plastic tee at the end of the sewer pipes to prevent them from clogging.

orangeburg sewer pipes

Orangeburg pipe was made in Orangeburg, New York, from 1860 to 1970, and was utilized to plumb numerous septic and wastewater systems throughout Yavapai County during that time period. Orangeburg pipe is produced from rolled tar paper (wood pulp that has been sealed with hot pitch) and was considered a low-cost alternative to metal, particularly after World War II, because of its flexibility and durability. In fact, the pipe itself is so soft that professionals might cut it with a knife during the installation process!

Orangeburg, on the other hand, is known for degrading over time (it has a 50-year lifespan at the most) and deforming when subjected to pressure.

If the septic system is approved, Orangeburg will normally be stated on the permits as the material for the inlet and/or outflow pipe material, respectively.

Septic System Replacement Fund

In order to assist households in replacing cesspools and septic systems, the Septic System Replacement Fund Program provides financial assistance to local governments. According to the information provided below, participating counties will award grants to property owners to pay them for up to 50% of the expenses (up to a maximum of $10,000) of their qualified septic system projects.

In order to select priority geographic regions in which property owners are eligible to participate, the state Department of Environmental Conservation and the Department of Health considered the following factors:

  • The presence of a single-source aquifer that provides drinking water
  • And Water quality impairments associated with failed septic systems that have been documented, and/or the ability of septic system modifications to reduce water quality problems

In future financing rounds, the DEC and the Department of Health and Human Services will re-evaluate priority waterbodies.

Eligibility

In accordance with program requirements, participating counties are responsible for assessing and analyzing the applications and determining whether or not to offer financial assistance. In making this determination, the following factors are taken into account: the position of the property in respect to a waterbody, the influence on groundwater that is utilized for drinking water, and the state of the property owner’s present septic system Following the evaluation of the applications and the determination of funding decisions, the participating counties notify the property owners of their grant awards by mailing them grant award letters.

Eligible Projects

  • Installation, replacement, or upgrading of a septic system or septic system components
  • Or, replacement of a cesspool with a septic system
  • Or Installation of modern treatment technologies, including a nitrogen removal system, to improve water quality.

Eligible Costs

  • Costs associated with system design and installation
  • System costs
  • System components
  • Enhanced treatment methods
  • Costs of design (limited exclusively to the effort required to complete the approved design)
  • And

Ineligible Costs

  • Maintenance on a regular basis, such as pumping out a septic tank
  • Expenditures that have not been properly reported
  • Fees charged by the government
  • Interest and late fees
  • Fines and penalties are levied. Payment of sales tax
  • Site beautifying or internal plumbing changes that aren’t absolutely necessary
  • The engineer is in charge of the administrative tasks. if the engineer, or a business owned, managed, or employed by the engineer, is also responsible for the repair or replacement, the engineer will observe the construction process

Participating Counties

County participation in the Septic System Replacement Fund is limited to the following counties: Funding is only available for the counties and priority waterbodies that have been identified by the DEC and are shown in the table below. If you have any queries regarding whether your property is eligible for grant financing, please contact the local program contact listed on your grant application.

Participating County Eligible Waterbodies Local Program Contact
Allegany *Canacadea Creek, Upper, and minor tribs (0503-0005) Tyler J. Shaw585-268-9254
Broome Park Creek and tribs (0601-0031)*Whitney Point Lake/Reservoir (0602-0004)*Fly Pond, Deer Lake, *Sky Lake (1404-0038) Creig Hebdon607-778-2863
Cayuga Owasco Lake (0706-0009)Lake Como (0705-0029)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-South (0705-0050)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-North (0705-0025)Cayuga Lake, Northern End (0705-0030)Skaneateles Lake (0707-0004) Eileen O’Connor315-253-1244
Chautauqua *Findley Lake (0202-0004)Chautauqua Lake, North (0202-0072) William T. Boria, P.G.P: 716.753.4772F: 716.753.4344
Chenango *Chenango Lake (0601-0013)*Guilford Lake (0601-0012) Isaiah SuttonP: 607-337-1673 F: 607-337-1720
Clinton *Upper Chateauguay Lake (0902-0034)Isle LaMotte (1000-0001) Ryan Davies518-565-4870
Columbia Robinson Pond (1308-0003)Copake Lake (1310-0014) Edward Coons
Cortland Skaneateles Lake (0707-0004) Michael J. Ryan
Delaware Susquehanna River, Main Stem (0601-0020) Nick Carbone607-832-5434
Dutchess Hillside Lake (1304-0001)Sylvan Lake (1304-0029) Marie-Pierre Brule845-486-3464
Essex Willsboro Bay (1001-0015)Lake George (1006-0016) Hannah Neilly518-873-3686hannah.neilly
Genesee Tonawanda Creek, Middle, Main Stem (0102-0002)Bowen Brook and tribs (0102-0036)Bigelow Creek and tribs (0402-0016)Oatka Creek, Middle and minor tribs (0402-0031) Thomas Sacco585-344-2580 Ext. 5496
Hamilton Lake Eaton (0903-0056) Erica Mahoney
Herkimer North Winfield Creek and Tribs (0601-0035) Jim Wallace
Jefferson Moon Lake (0905-0093)Guffin Bay (0303-0025)Saint Lawrence River, Main Stem (0901-0004)*Red Lake (0906-0039)*Indian River, Lower, and minor tribs (0906-0021)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0005)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0030)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0031)*Indian River, Middle, and minor tribs (0906-0032) Sara Freda315-785-3144
Lewis Beaver River, Lower, and tribs (0801-0187) Casandra Buell
Livingston Conesus Lake (0402-0004) Mr. Mark Grove585-243-7280
Monroe Irondequoit Bay (0302-0001)Mill Creek and tribs (0302-0025)Shipbuilders Creek and tribs (0302-0026)Minor Tribs to Irondequoit Bay (0302-0038)Hundred Acre Pond (0302-0034) Gerry Rightmyer585-753-5471
Nassau County Wide Brian Schneider516-571-6725
Onondaga Skaneateles Lake (0707-0004)Seneca River, Lower, Main Stem (0701-0008) Jeffrey Till315-435-6623 Ext. 4503
Ontario Honeoye Lake (0402-0032)*Canadice Lake (0402-0002)*Canandaigua Lake (0704-0001)*Hemlock Lake (0402-0011)*Seneca Lake, Main Lake, North (0705-0026)*Seneca Lake, Main Lake, Middle (0705-0021) Megan Webster585-396-1450
Oswego *Lake Ontario Shoreline, Eastern (0303-0030)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Eastern (0303-0031)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Eastern (0303-0017)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Oswego (0302-0040)*Lake Ontario Shoreline, Central (0302-0041) Donna Scanlon315-349-8292
Otsego Goodyear Lake (0601-0015)Susquehanna River, Main Stem (0601-0020) Tammy Harris607-547-4228
Putnam Oscawana Lake (1301-0035)East Branch Croton, Middle, and tribs (1302-0055)Palmer Lake (1302-0103) Joseph Paravati845-808-1390 Ext. 43157
Rensselaer Nassau Lake (1310-0001) Richard Elder
Saint Lawrence Saint Lawrence River, Main Stem (0901-0004)Raquette River, Lower, and minor tribs (0903-0059)Little River and tribs (0905-0090) Jason Pfotenhauer315-379-2292
Saratoga Dwaas Kill and tribs (1101-0007) Dustin Lewis518-885-6900
Schoharie Summit Lake (1202-0014) Shane Nickle518-295-8770.us
Schuyler Waneta Lake (0502-0002)Lamoka Lake and Mill Pond (0502-0001) Darrel Sturges607-535-6868
Seneca Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-North (0705-0025)Cayuga Lake, Northern End (0705-0030)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-South (0705-0050) Tom Scoles315-539-1947
Steuben Smith Pond (0502-0012)*Almond Lake (0503-0003)Waneta Lake (0502-0002)*Lamoka Lake and Mill Pond (0502-0001)*Keuka Lake (0705-0003) Matthew Sousa607-664-2268
Suffolk County Wide Joan Crawford631-852-5811
Tompkins Cayuga Lake, Southern End (0705-0040)Cayuga Lake, Main Lake, Mid-South (0705-0050) Liz Cameron607-274-6688
Warren Lake George (1006-0016) Claudia Braymer
Washington Cossayuna Lake (1103-0002)Lake George (1006-0016) Corrina Aldrich
Wayne Blind Sodus Bay (0302-0021)Lake Ontario Shoreline, Central (0302-0044) Lindsey Gusterslagn315-946-7200
Westchester Lake Meahagh (1301-0053)Truesdale Lake (1302-0054) Heather McVeigh
Wyoming Java Lake (0104-0004)Silver Lake (0403-0002)Oatka Creek, Middle, and minor tribs (0402-0031) Stephen Perkins585-786-8857 ext. 5163

* Only eligible for funding in Round 1 of the competition.

Program SummaryOutline

Last updated on October 19, 2021

Frequently Asked Questions

The program is handled by participating counties, and each county has a Local Program Contact who can assist in determining eligibility and the following stages in the program’s administration and implementation. Please refer to the Participating Counties section of this website to identify your county’s Local Program Contact and make contact with them directly.

My county is not listed on the eligible county list, am I eligible?

You are not eligible for the program if your county is not mentioned in the Participating Counties section of the website. However, you may wish to contact your local County Health or Planning Department to see if there are any additional services available to you that the county may be able to provide.

I do not see my waterbody listed as one of the Eligible Waterbodies, can it be added to the program?

The finalized list of qualifying waterbodies for Round 2 has been released. The law that established the program was aimed at improving water quality in waterbodies that had recorded deficiencies due to septic system contamination at the time of its inception. In order to comply with the legislative intent of the program, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation developed screening criteria for Round 2 that were focused on documented water quality impairments and the potential for septic replacement to improve water quality to improve water quality.

How do I provide NYSDEC water quality data that my local group collects?

Please keep in mind that the links in this response will take you away from the EFC website. During the data solicitation period, all information should be sent to the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation. The data solicitation period for the 2020/2022 Integrated Report/(303(d) List) is now ongoing. Making Waves, a monthly e-newsletter from the DEC Division of Waters, published an announcement in the Environmental Notice Bulletin on May 19th and the Environmental Notice Bulletin on May 21st.

After then, the data collection period will come to an end on September 27, 2021. Making Waves will be delivered to your inbox on a regular basis.

I live in one of the five NYC Boroughs, is my property eligible for the program?

Because New York City is still in the process of expanding its sewage infrastructure, none of the five boroughs (Bronx, Brooklyn, Manhattan, Queens, or Staten Island) are eligible for the State Septic Replacement Program at this time. Sewerage is the most effective method of improving water quality. People who have septic systems on their properties or who are considering installing septic systems are invited to contact the New York City Department of Environmental Protection to learn about their alternatives.

SEWER CERTIFICATION AND CONNECTION PERMITS FROM THE NYCDEP (EXternal Link)

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