- Attach a 4 in (10 cm) toilet flange to each hole. Push the flanges into the top of each tank so they fit flush. Screw the flanges into the tanks so they don’t move or shift after you place them.
Can you put a toilet anywhere in your house?
On a serious note, it is absolutely possible to install a toilet, even a bathroom as a matter of fact, anywhere in your house. In the past, many homeowners have had the idea of their dream bathroom crushed because the location was simply too far away from the main drain.
How much does it cost to install an Upflush toilet?
Upflush toilets typically cost $600 -$800. A professional plumber can usually install one in an hour or two ($100-$200) for a total cost of $700-$1,000.
Can you install a shower below sewer line?
The SaniSHOWER is a system used to install a bathroom shower and sink up to 12 feet below the sewer line, such as in a basement, or even up to 100 feet away from a soil stack. The SaniSHOWER basement bathroom shower system is designed to connect with the following: This SaniSHOWER gray water pump.
Do Saniflo toilets work?
The simple answer is that yes you can poop in a Saniflo toilet. As with normal toilet systems you can put any organic waste into the toilet bowl and use the flush mechanism to remove it—which includes toilet paper—although like a standard toilet too much toilet paper can lead to blockages occurring.
What is the easiest toilet to install?
A two-piece toilet has a separate tank and bowl, so it’s easier to install than a heavier one-piece with an integral tank and bowl. One-piece toilets have lower profiles—good for smaller bathrooms—and no tank gasket to leak.
Do you still need two doors between kitchen toilet?
In the past people have thought that a bathroom or toilet couldn’t open out into a kitchen, but this isn’t the case. As long as there is a basin where people can wash their hands before returning to the kitchen, then one door is enough.
How long do Upflush toilets last?
While an upflush toilet includes a macerator system and pump unit, everything else looks virtually the same. Upflush Toilets Have a Long Lifespan. Upflush toilets last for about 10-15 years before any of the mechanical components need to be replaced.
Does Upflush toilet need a vent?
All plumbing fixtures must be vented. Like all plumbing fixtures, an upflush toilet should vent into your home’s main vent stack, which extends from the main sewer line all the way to the roof. The tank comes with a vent connection on top.
How far can an Upflush toilet pump?
The unit pumps the effluent upward to 15 feet and/or 150 feet horizontally (with gravity fall). Once the water level in the container goes down, the micro switch deactivates the unit until the flush is activated again.
How hard is it to add a toilet in a basement?
Adding a basement bathroom is a big, complicated project. But that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. Thousands of DIYers successfully tackle the job every year, and so can you. Connect the basement bathroom plumbing to the existing drain and vent lines in the floor and ceiling to complete the rough-in plumbing.
Are saniflo systems a good idea?
Saniflo toilets are installable almost anywhere in the home, regardless of what your drainage system or plumbing setup happens to be. Because it is an upflush system, these toilets are an excellent addition to a basement bathroom where upward movement of waste is necessary.
All You Need to Know About Adding a Basement Bathroom
Image courtesy of fotosearch.com Incorporating a basement bathroom can increase the value of your property, but installing toilets and sinks in a below-grade setting requires more than just a basic understanding of drainpipes and sewage lines. Because the gravity assist that works for trash removal upstairs will operate against waste flow belowgrade, transporting garbage to the sewer line is a difficult task. However, there are a variety of solutions that fall under the category of do it yourself.
Find dependable local contractors for any home improvement project+
Belowground Water and Waste Pipes
Moving belowgrade bathroom waste to a sewer, septic, or sanitation line is not a difficult task for some homeowners since their sewer lines are deep enough to accommodate additional fixtures that benefit from gravity-assisted waste disposal. A phone call to the public works department will provide the general depth of the sewage pipe. Owners of residential properties should have easy access to precise information on their septic systems. Contact a plumber or plumbing professional to establish flow rates and if the system will be able to remove waste from basement fixtures properly.
This will avoid sewage backup in the basement.
Aboveground Solutions
There are a variety of methods for transporting bathroom or basement wastewater to sewage or septic systems. The “upflushing toilet,” freestanding sewage-ejector systems, and composting toilets are examples of aboveground alternatives. Aboveground solutions are ones that do not need the homeowner or installer cutting through an existing basement slab, resulting in cheaper installation costs for the homeowner or installer. Upflushing toilets are available in a variety of styles and configurations, but all have a pumping mechanism that is concealed within or behind the toilet.
Although upflushing toilet systems are pricey, the money saved on installation expenses makes them a worthwhile investment.
“Upflushing toilets sit on top of the floor, you don’t have to break the concrete, and servicing them is easy,” he says.
Macerating and Composting Toilets
Some upflushing toilet systems are equipped with a macerating or grinding mechanism that breaks down waste into tiny pieces prior to pumping, hence reducing the likelihood of blockage. An upflushing toilet system consisting of a toilet bowl, toilet tank, and macerating unit, the Saniplus macerating toilet from Sanif is available. Located in the bathroom or behind the wall, the macerating device (which also contains an electrically driven motor and pump) has the capability of pumping waste twelve feet vertically and/or 150 feet horizontally, depending on the configuration chosen.
Composting toilets are also a potential option for below-grade conditions, but they are only intended for the disposal of toilet waste and nothing else.
The MS10 Composting Toilet by Envirolet is powered by electricity, is self-contained, and sits on the floor.
They eliminate water loss and do not require the use of chemicals in the composting process, making them a more ecologically friendly option.
Due to the limited amount of material that may be composted in a day, utilization must be closely monitored and the unit must be emptied on a regular basis. Composting toilets can cost upwards of $1,000 to install.
Sewage-Ejector Systems
A freestanding or aboveground sewage-ejector system is another waste removal alternative that does not necessitate the drilling of holes through concrete foundations. These systems are normally contained within an enclosure, with the toilet (which is typically not included) mounted on top of the enclosure. Mini septic tanks are what these systems are essentially. This collection tank holds waste from the toilet, sink, shower/bath, and washing machine. It also contains the pump that transports the trash up and into the home’s drainage pipes.
It costs roughly $600 to purchase the Up Jon system from Zoeller; however, it does not come with a toilet.
Belowground Options
Belowground sewage-ejector systems are the least expensive alternative, but they are also the most difficult to set up and maintain. It is intended for these tank-and-pump sets to be installed in a hole in a basement floor, allowing floor fixtures to drain into the tank by gravity. The size of these units varies, but they are normally twenty inches in diameter and thirty inches deep on average. According to industry standards, the capacity of a holding tank ranges from thirty to forty gallons.
In the past, you’d have to buy the pieces individually and assemble the whole thing yourself.” Basically, all you have to do now is drop it in the ground and tie it down.” A below-ground system should cost around $400, according to industry estimates.
Cutting through a concrete slab to excavate the unit’s installation hole and any drainage pipes from extra basement fixtures will put the homeowner back a significant amount of money.
If you flush anything down the toilet by mistake, it may be a very messy task to get it back out.
Adding a Bathroom to Your Basement: Design & Drainage Considerations
The addition of a bathroom to basement quarters not only makes life a bit simpler, but it also increases the value of your home in the long run. If you’ve converted your finished basement into a second bedroom, game room, or gym area, a basement bathroom allows you to take advantage of that space without having to trek upstairs when the urge to pee strikes. Building a bathroom in the basement may appear to be a logical home renovation project, but it is not something that should be undertaken lightly.
If you take care of those concerns before you begin, your project should go off well.
Nonetheless, becoming familiar with the project’s specifications will make it simpler to collaborate with your contractor in order to get the bathroom design you desire. Knowing what it takes to add a bathroom to basement areas can also assist you in planning your budget.
Design considerations
The first thing you should do is get in touch with your local building authority. You should be aware that with any construction project, particularly one in a basement, zoning rules and deed limitations will need to be taken into consideration. Aim to position the new bathroom as near to the existing plumbing and electrical wiring as feasible in the best case scenario. Often, placing your basement bathroom exactly below the bathroom on the floor above is the most effective solution. Utility hookups will be easier and less expensive as a result of this.
- Alternatively, would you want a half-bathroom with only a toilet and a sink, or would you prefer an entire bathroom with a bathtub or standing shower?
- For those who do need a place to clean up, try an economicalcornershowerinstead of a bathtub.
- It is vitally necessary to have a high-capacity ventilation fan to suck off moisture.
- In order to handle overflows, a floor drain and access to an outside wall for the dryer vent will be required.
Drainage considerations
When it comes to adding a bathroom to basement rooms, drainage is the most important factor to consider. Gravity is used to drain away sewage and wastewater from standard aboveground bathroom plumbing installations. When waste is moved down the pipes, it is assisted by gravity, which is referred to as a “fall” or “slope.” In order for the toilet, sink, tub, or shower to drain properly in a basement bathroom, there must be a sufficient drop. When surveying your basement for the purpose of installing a new bathroom, your contractor will pay close attention to two major considerations.
- Plumbing depth—If your current plumbing drain is deep enough to allow for adequate drainage, bathroom building will be very straightforward. If this is the case, you’ll need to investigate some alternatives to traditional gravity-fed toilets
- If this is not the case, Measurement of pipe size— If your present pipes are too tiny, your plumber will need to install larger pipes in order to accommodate the basement drains.
Depending on the depth of your sewage line, your basement bathroom plumbing may be able to operate on gravity in the same way that your aboveground plumbing works. Obtaining information on the depth of your sewer pipe can be accomplished through your local public works agency. If you have a septic tank, you’ll need to determine whether or not your home’s septic lines are deep enough using the information you’ll most likely already possess. There may even be plumbing stubs accessible already if your property was constructed with the aim of adding a basement bathroom.
Even if your drain lines are sufficiently deep, there are certain additional concerns to keep in mind.
To prevent sewage from backing up into your toilet when connected to a public sewer line, you’ll need to install a backwater valve.
There will be more work to be done if your drainage lines are not deep enough to generate adequate fall in your yard.
However, for some homes, this will not be enough to generate adequate fall, but this does not imply that you should abandon your idea. In order to add a bathroom to a basement space of this size, carefully specialized equipment must be used, but it is still possible.
Basement toilet options
You have a variety of options for commodes for your new bathroom, depending on the plumbing that is already in place. Toilets with pressure-assistance— Despite the fact that your drainage pipes are theoretically too deep for gravity-fed plumbing, the fall in the basement is still not as great as it is on the higher levels of your home. Instead of putting yourself at danger of clogging your pipes with regular plumbing, invest in a pressure-assisted toilet, which employs air pressure to move waste through your pipes.
- A series of pipes runs up through the basement wall and out through the basement ceiling, where they connect to the sewer or septic tank line.
- There is a macerating feature in some of these types that grinds waste down to prevent blockage.
- New versions are powered by electricity, which eliminates the need for these issues.
- They’re similar to miniature septic tanks in that they only store waste for a short period of time.
- Because aboveground models are installed on the ground surface, there is no need to excavate for them.
- This tank may also be used to collect water from your sink, bathtub, or shower.
- These devices consist of a tank and pump that are installed in a hole beneath the basement floor.
Installation is more difficult for underground models than for aboveground ones, owing to the fact that they require excavation.
They use little to no water and convert your waste into compost that can be used to grow ornamental plants.
Bathtubs and showers are being installed.
It is possible that you may need to tear up the floor and excavate in order to install the plumbing.
You may also link your shower to your upflush toilet or sewage-ejector system as an alternative option.
If you’re planning on placing your basement bathroom against an aboveground outside wall, take advantage of the chance to bring natural light into the space.
In addition, pick bright ceiling lighting as well as lights for the vanity area to illuminate the space.
Your basement bathroom may be just as nice as your main bathroom if you choose the correct layout, fixtures, and accessories.
If you overlook any of the characteristics that distinguish belowground bathrooms from aboveground bathrooms, you might end up with a costly disaster on your hands.
However, if you have prior building knowledge, you may be able to do this project on your own.
Hire a professional plumber to do the task as quickly, easily, and reasonably as possible so that you can use your basement bathroom as soon as feasible. For more information on adding a bathroom to your completed basement, please call Black Diamond PlumbingMechanical now.
Installing plumbing fixtures below grade
No, this does not imply the installation of plumbing fixtures in which the student did poorly in school and received a C instead of an A or B. It relates to the situations in which you wish to build a toilet in your basement or a pottery studio in your backyard, which is located downhill from the home, for example. Alternatively, you could like an utilitarian sink in the garage.which is located downhill from the home. There is a recurring motif. You want some form of plumbing fixture put in a location where there is no way for it to drain by gravity into the main sewage line, such as a basement or crawl space.
- For example, if you’re constructing a bathroom in your basement, and the floor of the basement is, let’s say, 4 feet below the level of the ground immediately outside the structure, the method shown in the photo above is likely to be what you’ll need to set up.
- In such cases, the pump that aids in the drainage of your fixtures will need to be installed in the bathroom itself, as seen in the photo to the right.
- A particular style of toilet — such as the Sani-Flo model seen above — must be used in this situation to avoid contamination.
- The Sani-Flo toilet with the pump will cost between $850 and $1100, which is significantly more expensive than a conventional toilet, which can be purchased for as little as $180 or $250.
- It is seen in the photograph below how a sink may be linked to the same pump that is used for the toilet and that is included with the Saniflo toilet.
- The outlet or discharge pipe from this pump tank is a 1 inch PVC pipe that may be routed to go into the main sewage line with the use of adapter fittings if necessary.
- For example, there may be a shower in another room or at a lower level, which prevents the water from draining by gravity to the macerating pump behind the toilet and into the sink.
I’ve observed that the connections where the PVC pipes are connected on all of the Saniflo pumps that I’ve dealt with might be improved on all of them.
I’ve witnessed the connecting work come loose from the pump basin on more than one occasion, resulting in a flood in the surrounding neighborhood.
This pump is comprised of a big pump basin that is approximately 2 feet wide and 3 feet deep, and it is installed in the ground outside the structure.
In my opinion, the sewage ejector pump is the superior configuration for several reasons.
In other words, you won’t have to shell out a lot of money for extras like a specific toilet and maybe even a second Saniflo Swift pump for the shower.
The sewage ejector pump, which is located in the ground outside the structure, appears to be like this.
A waste water pump with an impeller similar to the Zoeller will be installed on the inside: The basin with a pump in it is as follows: If you utilize a macerating pump like the Saniflo or a sewage-ejector system, the pump in the basin will need to be changed at some point in the future.
Overall, the sewage ejector pump system may be more expensive to install initially due to the need to dig a hole, but it will be less expensive in the long run than the macerating toilet system since it will require less maintenance.
Adding a Second Toilet Line to a Septic
When considering the installation of a toilet on your septic system, it is important to check with the local construction authorities to ensure that you are permitted to do so. Depending on your jurisdiction, the size of your septic system is determined by the number of toilets you service, and exceeding this number without updating your tank or leach field is unlawful. Others, on the other hand, base system size on the number of beds and allow for the addition of numerous additional toilets as long as the number of people who use them does not rise.
The septic tank required for a single family house in Clackamas County, Oregon, for example, must have a minimum capacity of 1,000 gallons.
- Locate the lateral waste line, which runs from your home to the septic tank and back again. Despite the fact that it is underground, it is typically straightforward to discover after the septic tank has been identified. Finally, if everything else fails, you might go to the septic system schematic that is on file at the county planning office. Identify and plan the quickest path between the placement of your new toilet and the most convenient point of connecting to the lateral waste line. Depending on where you live, this connection point might be in the center of the yard, adjacent to your house, or even in the crawl space. If the pipe is in the yard, use a shovel to dig around it to expose it if it is hidden by vegetation. Never dig without first calling 811, which is the national call-before-you-dig phone number, to determine the location of underground utility lines. Using a drill and hole saw, create a 3-inch hole on the bathroom floor to accommodate the toilet. As mentioned in the toilet installation instructions, make certain that it is installed at the right distance from both the back and side walls. Install a toilet flange in the opening and secure it to the floor with a screwdriver. Plastic pipe cement should be used to attach a fitting to the flange that will allow you to route the waste pipe in the direction that it needs to travel. Extend the waste pipe to its tie-in point along the most convenient route, cutting pipe with a hacksaw and gluing fittings together with plastic pipe cement in many situations. Closet ells are the most common type of 90-degree drainage fitting. Strapping pipes to the floor joists that run horizontally under the house is an excellent way to keep them safe. Installing a 2-inch vent pipe will allow you to vent the toilet. A typical configuration is for it to rise from a T fitting in the waste line and extend upward to connect with the main vent stack. When employing 3-inch waste lines, the venting system must not be more than 6 feet away from the toilet flange to be effective. Under some conditions, it is acceptable to produce a wet vent through a sink drain
- Nevertheless, you should speak with your local building authorities and/or a plumber before proceeding. A vent T fitting should be used to connect the vent pipe to the main vent. The primary vent should be cut using a hacksaw, then glued in the T and the new vent pipe glued to the T. Glue in a Y fitting and glue the new waste pipe to the fitting to connect the toilet waste pipe to the lateral main sewer line.
Things You Will Need
- Shovel, drill, 3-inch hole saw, toilet flange, closet fitting
- And other tools. Plastic pipe cement, 3-inch plastic pipe and fittings, hacksaw, and other supplies are needed. Pipe straps
- 2-inch plastic pipe and fittings
- Vent T fittings
- Y fittings
- Pipe straps
Tip
Every point along the waste pipe’s passage to the septic tank must have a minimum 1/4-inch-per-foot slope to ensure proper drainage. Additionally, the vent pipe must retain the same minimum slope toward the toilet drain as it does toward the toilet. If you have access to a neighboring toilet, such as one on the other side of the wall or in an adjoining bathroom, you may be able to connect the waste line from that toilet to your own.
Warning
- Septic system modifications have the potential to modify groundwater composition, posing a threat to public health as well as the environment. It is possible that you may want a permission from both the health department and the building department for this job.
Can You Put a Toilet Anywhere in Your House?
Skip to the main content The title of this post may have caused you to take a second look, but we are here to discuss the potential of placing a toilet anyplace in your home. What is the reason behind this? Perhaps you wish to stand out from the crowd! After all, who says your toilet can’t be located in a closet where the coats should be stored? The toilet is in your home, and you have the right to decide where it will go and where it will not. Taking a more serious note, it is quite feasible to build a toilet, or even a bathroom as a matter of fact, virtually anyplace in your home.
This occurs in places such as the basement, where a substantial plumbing overhaul would be required in order for the system to function properly again.
In today’s world, householders have access to innovative technologies that were not previously available to them, such as macerating toilets and sewage ejector pumps.
What are a macerating toilet and sewage ejector pump?
Flushing a regular toilet flushes the waste down the toilet and into the waste line, which then goes to the mainline and is disposed of in the sewer or septic tank. Because the drain line on a standard toilet is below the level of the toilet, gravity draws the contents of the waste line into the toilet. Macerating toilets dispose of waste using a macerating device that is either behind the toilet or built into the wall behind the toilet. After that, high-powered blades liquefy the waste, which is then discharged from the unit through a standard pipe that is connected to the main drain line.
- It’s also significantly less expensive.
- Because waste does not need to be liquefied in order to be transported via the small-diameter pipe, a sewage ejector pump can be used instead of a sewage pump.
- Despite the fact that they are identical to other pumps, they have the ability to do something that others cannot: pass solids.
- Normally, the float switch regulates the whole operation, activating the pump when the water level in the basin reaches a specified point.
Please keep in mind that, if properly maintained and constructed, these bathrooms may survive for a considerable amount of time.
Can you install a toilet under the stairs?
Immediately after concluding that the garage or basement would be an absurd location for a toilet, your mind is going to be proven wrong. Not only is it possible to put a toilet beneath the stairs, but it is becoming more and more frequent every day, and it has the potential to raise the value of your property. These restrooms are both easily accessible and handy. As previously said, attempting to install a toilet the old-fashioned manner can get you in a load of difficulty, so opting for a macerating toilet or sewage ejector system will ensure that you do not encounter any difficulties throughout the installation process.
Because the macerating device churns the waste from the toilet into a liquid effluent that can be readily pushed via these small pipes, the machine can be fitted to a pipe as small as one inch in diameter.
Pros and cons of a macerating toilet
You should weigh the advantages and disadvantages of using a macerating toilet before investing your money in one. If your plumbing system does not have a downward drainage facility, it is critical to grasp the pros and cons before making a purchase. Don’t be concerned; the advantages of this endeavor exceed the drawbacks by a wide margin. Unfortunately, nothing is ever completely flawless, but this does not detract from how fantastic this device can be when used properly.
PROS
- The most significant advantage of purchasing a macerating toilet is that it can be put virtually anywhere in the house, regardless of whether you have a regular plumbing or drainage system in place. These toilets are excellent options for places where a toilet was never supposed to be installed in the first place. When you have children and want an additional bathroom, and you have available space beneath the stairs, in the attic, or in the basement, it is a fantastic choice that may really assist a parent
- Portable macerating toilets are available. Yes, you literally have your own port-a-potty (although a much cleaner one, of course) within the walls of your own residence. Assuming you decide to renovate your basement and discover that the macerating toilet would be more suited upstairs, it is just necessary to remove four screws from the toilet before it can be replaced. These simple-to-install and use toilets are a terrific solution for families that want a toilet for a member who is old or has special needs and has difficulty traveling up or down the stairs. Are you concerned about the amount of time it will take to get this project off the ground? Don’t. Installation time is negligible when compared to the time required for traditional toilets. The best thing is that there is virtually no digging or breaking required during the installation.
CONS
- Unfortunately, due of the independent pumps and macerating systems in each of these toilets, they may be rather noisy at times.
In terms of weighing the benefits and drawbacks of installing these toilets, making the decision is very straightforward. You don’t have to go through the hassle of having to undertake a complete plumbing overhaul and waiting for a toilet and the necessary lines to be installed when you can save both time and money by installing a macerating toilet in your home instead. Not only are you making your life simpler, but the rest of your family and your bank account will also thank you in the future for your efforts.
Other quick things to consider
While the project as a whole is cost-effective, it is important to note that there are other aspects to consider in addition to the toilet. Choosing the right building materials for new walls will be essential in ensuring that your bathroom is visually complete. Because you’re unlikely to be able to incorporate a window into your bathroom design, you’ll need to think about the lighting needs of your new area as well as any wiring that may be necessary. Finally, installing a vent on an outside wall provides you the option of saving money on energy costs.
Recall that a bathroom remodel like this may significantly increase the value of a homeowner’s property, which is why it’s critical to only choose specialists that have years of expertise in bathroom renovations on your team.
No matter if you want the toilet to be beneath the stairs, in the basement, or in the garage, your contractor will guide you through the process to ensure that your fantasy becomes a reality.
That’s why you turn to Tandem Contracting, a collection of highly skilled individuals that are committed to getting the job done well. Give us a call at 973-864-3100 or send us an email using the online contact forms so we can get started on your project right away. a link to the page’s load
Any risk in adding a bathroom for a below-grade basement? (floor, ejector) – House -remodeling, decorating, construction, energy use, kitchen, bathroom, bedroom, building, rooms
Please registerto participate in our discussions with 2 million other members – it’s free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After youcreate your account, you’ll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.| Even though I have a walk-out basement, the layout is such that because of a sloping back yard, one end of my basement in underground. I have a septic tank in my back yard; no public sewer. So if I add a bathroom in my basement, I will need to pump the waste up and through the pipes into my septic tank.1. Does this dramatically increase the cost of adding a bathroom?2. Is there some warning/back-up if the pump fails?3. Is there any other option?Please advise,K |
| Location: The Triad (NC)32,217 posts, read74,603,453timesReputation: 39567 |
| Quote:Originally Posted bykutra11I have a walk-out basement.I have a septic tank in my back yard.1) At what level does the EXISTING waste line exit the building?At my house the old septic pipe exited the wall about 13″ ABOVE the cellar floor.When the city later put in septic lines they were laid quite a bit lower.2) How far below the cellar floor is the septic tank?If low enough to allow enough pitch. you’ll be fine.If not. you may need a (major PITA) ejector pump.LINKThe rest is about plumbing codes -including back water valve.
Last edited by MrRational; 03-19-2014 at01:13 PM. |
| Quote:Originally Posted byMrRational1) At what level does the EXISTING waste line exit the building?At my house the old septic pipe exited the wall about 13″ ABOVE the cellar floor.When the city later put in septic lines they were laid quite a bit lower.2) How far below the cellar floor is the septic tank?If low enough to allow enough pitch. you’ll be fine.If not. you may need a (major PITA) ejector pump.LINKThanks for your reply. I hope I am answering exactly what you are asking.1. Since my basement is not fully finished, I can see the black septic pipe in my basement. It hangs about 4-5 ft from the basement ceiling.2. I don’t understand the question. If you take a rectangle (my outside basement wall) and draw a diagonal from the upper left corner to the opposite lower right corner, then the diagonal represents the sloping ground with the septic tank at the upper corner. The septic tank is probably at the same level as the basement ceiling which explains why the septic pipe hangs about 4-5 ft from the ceiling.Does that help? |
| Location: The Triad (NC)32,217 posts, read74,603,453timesReputation: 39567 |
| Quote:Originally Posted bykutra11It hangs about 4-5 ft from the basement ceiling.Yep. you’ll need a pump in order to have plumbing down there.And yes; you are right to be worried about that notion.Ask around for a good plumber.Or wait for the County to run sewage lines out thereOr move. |
| Quote:Originally Posted bykutra111. Does this dramatically increase the cost of adding a bathroom?2. Is there some warning/back-up if the pump fails?3. Is there any other option?K1. Yes, it will increase the cost.Installing an injector pump involves breaking up the concrete floor to run pipe and add a tank/pump system, installing the plumbing, testing it, then pouring new concrete over the hole.You will also need to vent the system.We had one put in our and I think it added $1500-$2000 to the project?Not sure if that number is correct.2.You can buy overfill alarms.3.No, if your plumbing is going to be lower than the septic line out of your house. |
| Location: Johns Creek, GA15,802 posts, read58,871,837timesReputation: 19920 |
| Quote:Originally Posted bybroadbill3. No, if your plumbing is going to be lower than the septic line out of your house.Wrong- you could do an incinerator toilet- no waste lines, no supply lines. But of course, you’d still need water and waste lines for a sink and tub/shower- but THEY don’t have to go to the septic system; they are considered gray water. |
| Quote:Originally Posted byK’ledgeBldrWrong- you could do an incinerator toilet- no waste lines, no supply lines. But of course, you’d still need water and waste lines for a sink and tub/shower- but THEY don’t have to go to the septic system; they are considered gray water.Those toilets run $2500-2800 and you still have to find drainage for the grey water.But I’ll amend.There is no PRACTICAL alternative if your plumbing is below the septic line.happy? |
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A QUICK GUIDE TO SEPTIC TANK TROUBLES
Septic tanks are excellent options for disposing of waste generated by a household. However, in order for your septic system to function properly, it must be maintained on a regular basis. Having your septic system pumped may be all that’s needed if your system has been performing well for a few years but is no longer performing correctly for any reason. Septic tank pumping is part of the normal septic-system maintenance process. Using a septic-pumping service, sludge is removed from your septic tank, allowing waste material to flow and be treated effectively once again.
YOU CAN SEE, HEAR, AND SMELL SEPTIC TROUBLE
When you are standing close to your leach field, which is the vast area where your septic tank is buried, you will be able to tell whether there is a problem with your septic tank. Septic-treated waste from your septic tank trickles onto the leach field, where it is spread into the surrounding soil. If the area around your drain field seems to be significantly greener than the rest of your yard, you may be experiencing septic tank troubles. Whenever the soil in and around the septic tank becomes mushy, pooled, or muddy, stay away from the area and contact your plumber immediately.
The gurgling sound indicates that there is a problem with your drainage system.
Homes with sluggish or non-functioning septic systems will begin to smell like rotten eggs or sewage gas as a result of the scent.
YOU MAY HAVE A PROBLEM SEPTIC TANK
Your family takes a lot of showers, does a lot of laundry, and runs many dishwasher loads every day, is this the case? It’s possible that your septic tank isn’t big enough for your wastewater capacity. Although the Louisiana Department of Health authorizes 500-gallon, single-chamber septic tanks for smaller residences, the department advises that double-chamber or successive single-chamber tanks be installed wherever practical. If your leach field is capable of supporting the additional tank flow, you may be able to increase the amount of waste your septic system can handle.
Tanks can also be shifted, resulting in them not being level or not working in the proper direction.
Ideally, air should fill up the top 15 percent of the septic tank’s entire inner height, while the bottom liquid should not reach over 85 percent of the tank’s total inner height.
Sluggish septic system performance can eventually result in backup into your home’s internal water supply lines and plumbing fixtures. In order to resolve this issue, your plumber will locate the obstruction and clear it from the line.
YOU NEED PATIENCE WITH SEPTIC FLOODING
If your septic tank has been flooded as a result of storm-related flooding, you must wait for the water to drain before proceeding with any work surrounding your leach field. A soft leach field will not provide enough protection for buried septic equipment. It is possible that pumping a flood-submerged tank will break the pipe connections, resulting in the tank popping out of the earth. Reduce your family’s water use until your septic system is back up and running, and then plug the septic system.
It is against the law to throw waste water into any creek, stream, or other waterway.
In many circumstances, removing roots, blockages, and debris from your septic lines will be sufficient to rehabilitate your septic system after floods.
When & Where to Use a Macerating Toilet – PlumbingSupply.com
It is possible to justify the addition of a second toilet or a complete bathroom to a home for several reasons (or wherever). In addition, while it’s easy to get caught up in the gorgeous details of design elements such as colors, finishes, and other decorative accents, our best-laid plans are always subject to the cold, and at times, brutal, reality of the current plumbing system. as well as gravity There have been many instances where homeowners’ bathroom ambitions have been crushed because the bathroom is located too far away from the main drain line to be functional without a substantial plumbing renovation.
With no gravitational force to assist in moving trash out of the residence, an other mode of transportation is required.
What Is a Macerating Toilet?
Normal toilets flush waste via a trap and into a waste line before sending it to the main drain line, which is connected to the sewer or septic system. Because the drain line lies below the level of the toilet, gravity draws the contents of the waste stream into the drain line and out of the toilet bowl. The same is true for sinks and bathtubs. Waste from macerating toilets, on the other hand, is sent to a macerating machine that is often positioned behind the toilet or in the wall of the bathroom.
- However, while macerating toilets are more expensive than regular toilets, connecting a small-diameter pipe to an existing system is far easier and significantly less expensive than completely reconstructing the system.
- Pro Tip: The grinder pump is housed in a sump pit basin and is responsible for transporting liquid waste to the main drain.
- Depending on the type, that range varies from 10-15 feet of vertical lift and 100-150 feet of horizontal run, with the vertical lift being the most common.
- Macerating toilets are completely safe to use in conjunction with septic systems.
- Understand that, while this may be unavoidable in some situations, failure can occur more quickly in the unit because to the numerous mechanical elements that are working together.
This is especially true when compared to a regular toilet. The use of a macerating device all day, every day will dramatically reduce the life of the pump. Even if your pump fails, don’t be concerned: replacements are readily accessible!
InstallationUse
It is rather simple to install a macerating toilet, and even a highly skilled DIYer can generally accomplish the job in half a day or less. That being said, even minor installation faults might result in more serious issues down the line, which is something you definitely do not want to have to deal with (as it typically involves a slurry of raw sewage). Make a careful study of the instructions and adhere to them to the letter. In addition, adequate venting of the unit is required, and right angle turns should be achieved using two 45° elbows rather than one 90° elbow.
- And, of course, make certain that the macerator unit has access to a sufficient power source close by – most are fitted with a connector that can be plugged into a regular grounded outlet.
- Providing, of course, that they are utilized appropriately.
- The same rules apply to macerating units, sewage ejector systems, and every other toilet on the planet: only human waste and toilet paper should be used – and try not to go overboard with the toilet paper!
- Manufacturers provide specialist cleaners, but you may save money by using plain old vinegar to clean the bowl and limescale within the unit, rather than purchasing a cleaner.
Sewage Ejector Systems
In such cases where the toilet is located below the main drain but not a substantial distance away from it, what should be done? In those instances, waste does not need to be liquefied in order to be transported horizontally down a small-diameter pipe; it merely has to be transported upwards into the main drain. Instead of paying for a function that you will never use, you may save money by using a sewage ejector pump. Septic ejector pumps function similarly to other pumps, but they have the benefit of being able to pass particles up to 2 inches in diameter, which is uncommon for other pumps.
- The operation is often controlled by a float switch, which activates the pump when the amount of wastewater in the basin reaches a specified level.
- The best course of action is to contact with a plumber about the type and size of sewage pump that would be most appropriate for the scenario.
- Calculations are required in order to correctly size the pump.
- In some cases, a duplex system may even be necessary for heavy-duty applications.
These systems, when installed properly and used responsibly, may keep a bathroom operational for many years, regardless of where it is located.
Related ItemsInformation
Please keep in mind that the material presented here is designed to provide a fundamental understanding of plumbing-related repairs, troubleshooting, and purchase considerations. This material is intended to be general in nature and may not be applicable to all applications. When in doubt about your ability to accomplish one of these tasks or when you have more concerns about the material offered, seek the advice of a qualified expert immediately. Always double-check local code rules and the appropriate authorities before starting a project of any kind.
What do I do if My Septic Alarm is Going Off?
In the event that your septic alarm goes off, it may surely create some anxiety and uncertainty; and if you happen to be experiencing this right now, then you’ve arrived to the correct location! Don’t be concerned; it does not necessitate urgent action. Instead, take your time to go through this full essay so that you will be prepared to act now or in the future if the situation arises. What Septic Systems Are and How They Work The alarm works in conjunction with the septic system to alert you when the water level within the pump tank has increased to an unsafe level or has decreased to an unsafe level.
- The timer is in charge of regulating the time intervals during which the pump is permitted to pump wastewater into the drainage system.
- Thus, during periods of excessive water use, the drain field is kept from getting overflowing, which might cause damage to the drainage system.
- A large amount of water is injected into the system in between pumping cycles for whatever cause, and the water has nowhere else to go but back into the system’s pump tank.
- Depending on how much water was and continues to be put into the system and how the pump is set up to operate on a timer, it may take many pumping cycles until the water levels are returned to normal.
- There is an excessive amount of water being put into the septic system. This is the result of excessive water use, which might be caused by multiple loads of laundry, an excessive quantity of dishwashing, or a disproportionate number of long showers.
- Somehow, groundwater is making its way into the system. If there is an excessive amount of standing water surrounding the septic tanks, whether generated by rain or another source, the water may seep into the tanks and cause the internal water level to rise.
- It’s possible that one of the components of the septic system is malfunctioning. If anything goes wrong with your system — including the pump and floats — the alarm and timer will go off and the septic system will stop working correctly.
The Best Thing to Do If Your Alarm Goes Off Alternatively, if you hear an alert, you should press the red button or turn on the alarm box. The alarm will be turned off as a result of this action. There should be a red light and a green light on the alarm box, which should be situated someplace on the unit. The green light indicates that the alarm is operational and should be left on at all times. It is shown by a red light if the alarm is getting a signal from the pump tank indicating that the water level is increasing above or decreasing below what is expected.
If the breaker occurs to be tripped, look around the septic tanks to see if there is any standing water.
It is possible that the red light on the alarm box will go out on its own after allowing the septic system to operate for a couple of pump cycles (which should take approximately 10-15 hours).
If the red light turns off, it signifies that the system is operating properly and that it only needs to catch up with the extra water that has overflowed into the storage tank.
To be clear, an alarm signal from the septic system does not always imply that sewage is about to back up into the house right away.
Do you require septic system repair on a regular basis or emergency service?
To arrange an appointment, please call (804) 581-0001 or send us an email through our contact page. Want to learn more about septic systems? Explore our septic system web sites by clicking on the “Septic” navigation option in the top navigation bar.
