- Excavate a hole large enough to set the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Use the laser transit and “shoot” the top of the pipe going out to the tank. Measure the distance from the top of the inlet, to the bottom of the tank.
How do you slope a septic line?
A typical septic tank has a 4-inch inlet located at the top. The pipe that connects to it must maintain a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward it from the house. This means that for every 10 feet of distance between the tank and the house, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches below the point at which the pipe exits the house.
Can septic drain field be on a slope?
The tank will not drain uphill to the drain field. The leach lines themselves, however, should be set level. In a conventional gravity system, the pipe from the house to the septic tank, and the outlet pipe from the tank to the distribution box or leach field, should both slope downward with a minimum slope of 1/4 in.
Do septic lines have to be straight?
My experience is that many waste line installers simply install a straight sewer line from house to septic tank or house to sewer main, regardless of the building slope, provided that we have at least 1/8″ per foot, preferably 1/4″ per foot, or more. Lower slope or nearly-flat drain lines are more likely to clog.
How deep are septic lateral lines?
A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.
What is the minimum depth of a sewer line?
How Deep Is a Sewer Line? Sewer lines on private property can be as shallow as 18–30 inches deep or as much as 5–6 feet deep. In areas with cold climates, the pipe will be buried deeper to prevent freezing in the winter.
What is the fall of a 4 inch sewer pipe?
The minimum slope for a 4-inch PVC gravity flow sewer pipe is 1/8 inch per foot.
Why the inlet pipe in the septic tank is higher than the outlet pipe?
Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).
Can I level my leach field?
Yes you can. You just have to ensure that the the surface level of the septic flushes with the ground level so that the storm water doesn’t get in it.
Should I use 3 or 4 sewer pipe?
A 3-inch pipe is what’s used in homes to pipe toilets. The 4-inch pipe is used as the building drain under floors or in crawlspaces to transport all the wastewater from a home out to the septic tank or sewer. The 4-inch pipe may also be used in a home if it’s capturing two or more bathrooms.
How much slope does a sewer pipe need?
It is generally accepted that 1/4″ per foot of pipe run is the minimum for proper pitch on a sewer line. Larger lines such as 8″ pipe actually require less pitch due to the larger circumference of the pipe.
What is the maximum slope for sewer pipe?
What is the maximum slope allowed? The “no” zone is anything between: 1/2″ per foot and a 45 degree angle.
Guide to Installing Septic Drainfield Piping on steep slopes
- Send us a question or make a comment about how to construct a septic system on a steeply sloping lot.
InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Septic systems with steep slopes are known as steep slope drainfield systems. A septic drainfield or leach line is described in this article, which is applicable to tough terrain, such as steep slopes, where a property dispose of wastewater using an aseptic tank and a drainfield. We also have anARTICLE INDEX for this topic, and you can use the SEARCH BOXes at the top and bottom of the page to obtain the information you need quickly and easily.
Guide to Septic Installations on Steep Slopes or Stepped Slopes
Technical reviewers are welcome and are mentioned under “References.” Citation of this article by reference to this website as well as a brief quotation for the sole purpose of review are authorized. The author reserves the right to republish this information on other websites, in books, or in pamphlets for sale. The photo above shows terracing that was utilized by the excavator during a septic drainfield installation. Apart from this text (which may be found below), readers interested in septic installation guidance for steeply sloping or rolling sites should study the following articles:
- THE INSTALLATION OF Sewage OR SEPTIC LINES ON STEEP SITES is a term that refers to the installation of sewer or septic line pipes connecting a structure to its septic tank or sewer main on steep sites that slope down substantially between the structure and the septic tank. SYSTEMS DE DOSAGE For hilly sites where the drainfield must be located either uphill or downhill from a septic tank or structure, PRESSURE is a term that refers to pressure dosing systems that may be beneficial for disposing of sewage. GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS – Other gravelless systems are capable of handling mild bends required to follow rolling slope lines
- However, some gravelless systems are not. Sewage pumps, sewage ejector pumps, grinder pumps, effluent pumps, sump pumps, septic pumping stations, and sewer pump alarms are examples of systems that will be required if the building or septic tank is located below the drainfield or sewer main. Installation of septic drainfields on steep or undulating terrain is described in detail in STEEP SLOPE DESIGNS(text found immediately below)
Guide to Installing Steep Slope Septic Drainfield Systems
In the case of steep sloped sites, sewage or SEPTIC LINE INSTALLATION at STEEP SITES refers to sewer pipe between a building and a septic tank or sewer main at steep sloped sites when the ground slopes down considerably between the building and the septic tank, and SYSTEMS DE DOSE For hilly sites where the drainfield must be located either uphill or downhill from a septic tank or structure, the term “PRESSURE” is used to describe pressure dosing systems, which may be beneficial for disposing of sewage.
GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS – Some gravelless systems are capable of handling mild bends required to follow rolling slope lines; however, some gravelless systems are not.
Installation of septic drainfields on steep or undulating terrain is described in detail in STEEP SLOPE DESIGNS (see text immediately below);
- Septic systems with a D-box for steep slopes: When septic effluent is clarified, it is discharged from the septic tank (or an effluent pumping station) and directed into a big distribution box. A larger D-box with more connection ports will be required than those used for a standard flat-area drainfield since each effluent line that will be installed across the hillside will need to be connected directly to the D-box. Separate effluent lines for steep slope septics are required: Individual septic effluent drain lines are connected to the distribution box, and each of these drain lines is directed to a separate gravel trench and perforated drainfield. Feeder pipes for effluent lines in steep slope septic systems include the following: It is not perforated, but rather solid pipe that connects the distribution box to the drainfield trench. Effluent lines for hillside or rolling land drainfields are placed along the slope, not uphill or downhill, and sloping gently (1/8″ to 1/4″ per linear foot) from the inlet end of each drainfield trench to the lowest point of the drainfield trenches.
Installing Septic Drainfield Piping on Steep Slopes Located Downhill from the Septic Tank – Rolling Land
- For steep slope septics, flexible distribution pipe or gravelless systems are recommended: Because flexible effluent lines may be routed in a trench that must be curved in order to remain parallel to the fall line of the slope of rounded hilltops or rolling ground, flexible piping may be more convenient to construct than rigid pipe systems in areas where the land is rolling or contoured. Dosing with high pressure for steep slope septic systems: Septic effluent handling methods, such as pressure distribution systems, may be more forgiving of installation on steep or uneven sloping ground, and they may use rigid or flexible perforated pipe, depending on the application. Pressurized Septic Systems (also known as Pressure Dosing Septic Systems)
- For septic system effluent dispersal, drip lines—which employ flexible distribution piping—might also be effective on some steep locations. Some aerobic systems that dispose of effluent using drip systems or spray systems, or that feed drip irrigation systems, can solve the problem of steep slope septic effluent disposal, according to the manufacturer. AEROBIC SEPTIC SYSTEMS, ATUs, ATUs-home Alternatively, see DESIGN AND INSTALLATION GUIDE FOR HOOT AEROBIC SYSTEMS DRIP DISPOSAL Alternatively, see “Guidance for the Design, Installation, and Operation of Subsurface Drip Distribution Systems as a Replacement for Conventional Title 5 Soil Absorption Systems for the Disposal of Septic Tank Effluent,” published by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection in 2006, which rewrites the state’s 310 CMR 15.240, 15.242, 15.247, and 15.280-15.289 regulations. Graywater disposal systems also include designs that can assist with effluent of graywater GREYWATER SYSTEMS are discussed more below.
Why Drainfield Effluent lines need to be properly sloped
Septic drainfields that use gravity to treat and dispose of cleared wastewater effluent must be correctly pitched and never slope too steeply to ensure effective operation. If this is not done, effluent will flow too fast to the low end of the drainfield line and gravel trench, where it is likely to simply break out onto the surface of the land. If you need to build a traditional perforated pipe and gravel trench drainfield on a steep slope, you’ll need to run the trenches parallel to the fall line or down the slope itself, descending down the slope from trench to trench as you go.
Steep Slope Septic Design Research
- Gustafson, David M., James L. Anderson, Sara F. Heger, and Barbara W. Liukkonen published a paper in which they discussed their findings. Making the decision to install an alternative septic system on a home site with a steep incline (2000). Retrieved on March 30, 2021, from the University of Minnesota Extension. the original source is:
Reader CommentsQ A
On the 25th of May in the year 2020, by (mod) – Is it possible to have the leach lines for a septic tank go uphill from the tank? Although it is possible to place the drainfield above the septic tank, an effluent pumping system will be required. This is an excerpt from the previous remark. This is where the leach line will be put, as opposed to the lower level, where the septic system is buried. When you see the house, it will be on top of this embankment, on the right side of the house, as you approach.
- Yes.
- Do you think there will be any issues with this setup, and how long will a pump survive for this system, given that it is not built at the same level as an ordinary septic system?
- When installing a septic system, may the leach area be constructed on an embankment behind the home?
- The height of the embankment is equal to the top of the roof of the single-story home that is being constructed.
- Because the leach area is located on a steep slope away from the septic system, how often will the pump need to be rebuilt and how expensive will this procedure be in the long run of owning your property be?
- Essentially, you must maintain a slope of 1/8 to 1/4 inch every foot of horizontal flow in order to prevent all effluent from instantly rushing to the end of the system and overloading it.
- Steve We are therefore discharging sewage into the environment throughout the winter; I agree that diverting surface runoff away from the drainfield could be a good idea.
If none of these options work, we (and by we, I mean you) may have to resort to a raised bed or mound septic system.
The drain field is located on a level part of a hill with a width of around 60 feet.
Should a french drain be installed in the flat area uphill from a drain field in order to sort of isolate the drain field and make it more or less operate as a mound at that point in time?
Thank you, Kelly.
This will ensure that the bottom of your drain field or effluent disposal system has enough soil beneath it that the affluent does not simply hit rock and flow down The Rock and into the lake.
A septic system is being considered for installation on an island that is largely solidrock (Canadian Shield) and slopes into a body of water (Lake Superior) (5 percent to 25 percent gradient in places).
How dependable would a septic system be under these circumstances and what are the difficulties I should be aware of?
How long do you think this system will be able to work before it breaks down?
What is the highest topographic slope that may be accommodated in a septic field servicing a single family property in Frederick County, Maryland?
Thank you so much for your rapid response.
Your solution requires me to install six drop boxes across a 100-foot distance!
A sewage pipe that is excessively steep may cause water to flow too quickly, leaving particles behind.
When using a stepped line method, it is preferable to make each turn through a D box to allow for easier cleaning access.
This is my problem: I’m putting a bathroom and kitchenette in my remote 2400 square foot woodworking shop, which I’m now in the midst of constructing.
I work as a carpenter, mason, and builder.
For the pre-existing septic tank, I have around 20′ of fall and approximately 100′ of run.
The house has been put on hold (waiting for more money).
I don’t live on the construction site, and it appears that it will be several years before I can begin construction on the house.
“the sewage line down to the septic tank should be laid out in a step-wise fashion?
Besides being built on granite bedrock, the septic tank and effluent pump to a drain field are situated on the property to fulfill both perc test criteria and to maintain a minimum distance of 100 feet from a river.
When not attached directly to bedrock, frost footings must have a minimum depth of 5′ to be considered.
Another concern is the presence of black water.
There will be a cleanout installed at the point where the pipe breaks through the foundation wall.
Steve, It’s amazing to read of drainfields that are more than 50 years old and are still in good working order, but I’ve seen a few myself, including a sophisticated system erected on an estate about 1920.
When a system is “functioning,” it implies that it appears to be effectively disposing of effluent – that is, there are no damp spots on the ground.
Nevertheless, in the absence of any failure data, almost no one would dig up and interfere with a drainfield.
It would be beneficial to include more specifics in this section.
Many of these were placed as long as 50 years ago and are still in good working order.
Diverse considerations, including the existence of impermeable strata, seasonal ground water, and slope stability, must be given careful attention.
This was quite beneficial.
It was, without a doubt, pricey.
I figured I’d best include this: Because the drainfield location will be well down-slope from the construction site and tank, a gravity-fed system or a syphon system may be employed.
Standard drain fields are not permitted on slopes more than 25 percent in my area.
This is excellent information.
I have a building site that is on a 24 percent to 30 percent slope. STEEP SITE INSTALLATION OF A SEWER OR SEPTIC LINE CONTINUES READING Alternatively, choose a topic from the closely related articles listed below, or browse the entireARTICLE INDEX. Alternatively, consider the following:
Steep Slope Septic System Articles
- SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
- SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN ALTERNATIVES-home
- SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN BASICS-home
- SEWER / SEPTIC LINES at STEEP SITES
- STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS
- SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
- SEPTIC CONSULT
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STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNSatInspect A pedia.com- online encyclopedia of buildingenvironmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue avoidance advice.Alternatively, see this:
INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS
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installing drain piping on steep slopes
- In this section, you can ask questions and express your opinions regarding sewage or septic pipe lines on steeply sloping premises.
InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Installing or replacing sewer lines on steep hills is a challenging task. This article discusses the construction of drain lines on steep slopes between a house and a septic tank, as well as the maintenance of drain lines. For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.
Guide to installing the replacement sewer pipe line at Steep Sites
Using real-world examples and photographs, we demonstrate how to diagnose and replace a clogged sewage line in an actual case study. Septic or sewage line blockage and backups may be prevented by having the proper drain line slope installed. In this section, we will talk about
- Septic pipe installed in a zig-zag pattern on steep hillsides
- Septic pipes with a U-turn on steep hillsides
- Septic pipework running parallel to the fall line of a slope Designing steep septic systems for sewer or septic pipe repair or new installations
When it comes to a drain waste pipe, what is the right slope or pitch to use? When wastewater travels at the proper pace via a drainpipe, the water transports solid waste, such as feces and toilet paper, as well as water, to a septic tank or sewage mains for disposal. Generally speaking, plumbing rules and wastewater piping guidelines state that building drains should be pitched at a rate of 1/8” to 1/4” of slope for every foot of linear length or distance. Problems associated with steep dips between the home and the septic tank include: A steep building site, such as the one depicted in our page top photograph, can result in a significant drop in elevation between a building main drain and the septic tank inlet opening (or sewer main connection), resulting in waste piping slopes that exceed the recommended limits for slope in the waste piping.
If waste passes through the sewage line at a rate more than 2 fps, there is a possibility that water will leave sediments behind in the pipe, resulting in recurring obstructions.
If waste runs through a septic or sewage drain line at a slower rate than the required rate, there is a risk that the listless flow will deposit sewage in the pipe, causing it to get clogged.
ZigZagging Drain Line Piping Down a Slope
zigzagging the pipe down a steep slope, making multiple bends, would be one method of reaching the required wastewater flow rate in a drain line down a steep slope. However, in my opinion, the increased number of turns and length of this approach may increase the likelihood of future sewer line blockages. Additionally, the zigzag drain line approach will make it more difficult to clean out blockages, and therefore you will need to include sewer line cleanout access points at every run and turn in the installation.
Straight-run Drain Line Piping Down a Steep Drop Slope between House and Septic Tank or Sewer Main
According to my observations, many waste line contractors simply establish a straight sewer line from the home to the septic tank or from the house to the sewage main, regardless of the building slope, as long as we have at least 1/8″ per foot, ideally 1/4″ per foot, or more, of water pressure. Drain lines with a lower slope or those are practically flat are more likely to clog. On a related note, if you’re building a drain line that may be too steeply sloped and you won’t be able to readily correct the problem, make sure to include extra cleanout access ports.
Experience in Installing Steep Sewer Drain Line Piping
It is my opinion that if the whole pipe run is steeper than what is generally specified, it is possible that you will never see a clog occur. The sewage line dips on a slope between 2″ and 3″ per foot over a 40-foot run between the home exit line and the septic tank entrance baffle at the property depicted in these images and in the other photos in this series on sewer line replacement, as seen in the other photos in this series. In order to avoid leaving particles behind while flushing the toilet, this house-to-septic tank drain pipe should be placed in the “risk zone.” However, after managing this property for more than two decades, we can confidently state that we have never had an issue with too-rapid drainage clogging the waste line.
Since we replaced the old clay plumbing with plastic piping, we have not experienced any sewage obstructions.
The black line on the right-hand pipe portion indicates to the installer when the pipe sections have been completely connected together.
The only issue we experienced with the line was when the previous clay line was smashed and subsequently became clogged with mud and other debris.
Other Steps to Avoid Problems with Septic or Sewer Drain Lines on Steep Sites
- Cleanouts of septic tanks or sewer drain lines: I’d put external cleanout access ports on the sewage line every 20 feet or so for the sake of ease. Proper septic pipe hookups include the following: Ensure that the new pipe connections are made correctly, that they are lubricated, and that they are completely seated during the assembly process. The following are the proper sewage pipe directions: The receiving pipe hub, often known as the “female” end of the pipe, is located at the bottom of the following downhill segment. Make sure you don’t do this in reverse or you’ll attract leaks and blockage in your sewage system.
- Smooth drain line connections should be employed: the hub-less drain pipe connector shown in our photo was used to connect the new plastic waste line (which runs downhill to the septic tank) to the old cast iron waste line at the point where it exited the structure. These pipes needed to be correctly aligned (to avoid leaks at the connector) and their connections and pipe ends needed to be filed smooth in order to reduce the likelihood of waste line clogs at this point in the system.
Installing SepticDrainfieldPiping on Steep Slopes is a Different Matter Entirely
Please understand that we have examined the installation of solid plumbing between a building and its septic tank or sewage main in this articleand that higher slopes may be acceptable in some circumstances. However, the possibility of a “OK” for steep drain pipe does not apply in any manner to the perforated piping put in a septic drainfield gravel trench, which is a different story.
Those looking for help on installing a septic system on a steeply sloping or rolling site should check out the following articles:
- For further information, see AEROBIC SEPTIC SYSTEMS, ATUs, and HOME – some of these systems can be used on steep slope locations. Or SeeHOOT Aerobic Systems Drip Disposal Design and Installation Guide for more information. Alternatively, see “Guidance for the Design, Installation, and Operation of Subsurface Drip Distribution Systems as a Replacement for Conventional Title 5 Soil Absorption Systems for the Disposal of Septic Tank Effluent,” published by the Massachusetts Department of Environmental Protection in 2006 and refining Massachusetts regulations 310 CMR 15.240, 15.242, 15.247, and 15.280-15.289
- Or “Guidance for the Design, Installation, and Operation of Subsurface Drip Distribution Systems as SYSTEMS DE DOSAGE For hilly sites where the drainfield must be located either uphill or downhill from a septic tank or structure, PRESSURE is a term that refers to pressure dosing systems that may be beneficial for disposing of sewage. GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS – Other gravelless systems are capable of handling mild bends required to follow rolling slope lines
- However, some gravelless systems are not. A system that will be required when the elevation of a structure or a septic tank is lower than the elevation of the drainfield or sewer main is Septic pumps, sewage ejector pumps, grinder pumps, effluent pumps, sump pumps, septic pumping stations, and septic pump alarms Installation of septic drainfields on steep or rolling terrain is described in STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS, which is part of the SEPTIC DESIGNS section.
Reader Q A – also see the FAQs series linked-to below
@hello there, dude. Sweep turns with a wider radius (e.g., 2 45s) will often flow better than sharper turns. On a corner where the toilet waste flow is present. If trenching provides for 4″ deeper depth, is it preferable to construct the 90° corner with a 1° drop rate as normal, or is it preferable to make the corner with two 45° corners while lowering the 4″? Thanks@Ted, Start by consulting with your local building or health department to see what type of design would be considered suitable in your nation and neighborhood.
- We have a shortage of service personnel for upkeep, and I believe that a sprinkler system would be more beneficial to our grounds.
- Thanks@Ted That doesn’t appear to be a concern in my opinion.
- @inspectapedia.com.moderator, Yes, without a doubt, that is not hygienic.
- Thanks@Ted, In a situation when you are just transferring a cleared fluid, there should be no particulates left behind in the wastewater stream.
- That is a very other issue.
- What if it’s been sitting in a septic tank for a while, breaking down as if it were going to a leach field instead?
- That would be the material that would be sent to the aerobic tank.
You may be required to utilize a grinder sewage pump and force main; we are in the process of establishing a traditional tank close to our home.
What is the maximum percent drop per foot for the effluent line in terms of percent drop?
@Ted.
Thank you very much.
It goes without saying that such lines must have the proper pitch in order to reach the final position of the septic tank.
You should verify with your local building authority to find out exactly what is required to be placed at a 4 foot depth in your area.
My issue is, can I dig a smaller trench and then descend vertically to the requisite four-foot depth before finishing?
Thank you for the information, it was really useful.
What would be the best configuration for the septic tank and pipes when the designated drain field area is 500 feet away from the house?
The slope before and after the hill is rather level, descending very gradually in the direction of the drain field before becoming steeper.
A construction site located in a swale below the city sewer lateral service point has been identified as a potential concern.
(Let’s pretend it’s 8 feet below the surface) Is there an alternative to the brute force strategy of bringing in hundreds of cubit yards of fill and compacting it to raise the elevation of the construction site?
A septic tank is just 18 inches away from the building foundation, which is a little near.
Solids dropping vertically have the potential to adhere to and clog the pipe; however, employing 45-degree elbows instead of 90-degree elbows can help to mitigate this danger.
I would begin by having the tank examined to identify which items are most important in this order of significance.
A sound septic tank, as opposed to one built of brick or rusted steel; how well the baffles and protection from groundwater leaks are maintained; and how well the baffles and protection from groundwater leaks are maintained.
The quality and capacity of the drainfield are important considerations.
Is this a reasonable drop?
This is an ancient septic tank that I was allowed to utilize because of a grandfather clause.
What is the length of the pipe drop when the septic tank is 120 feet away?
How steep do the pipes have to be from one drop box to the next?
Does the length of the pipe, in addition to its angle of incline, have a limit in terms of length?
Please let us know if this is the case!
Verne, you have an issue with a septic or wastewater system that has too much downslope.
The difficulty with longer segments of excessive slope sewer plumbing is that the liquid waste will occasionally overtake the solid waste in the line, causing the system to back up.
One of the most valuable aphorisms I can share, at least in the context of the building construction and mechanicals fields, is that it is extremely uncommon to come into a situation that has never been experienced before.
According to one of the solutions described on this page, the sewage line is made even longer by zig-zagging across the steeply inclined areas of the land.
I’ll leave the graphic specifics to your imagination, so go ahead and go creative.
Let’s put the question to your septic installer and see what she has to say about it.
STATIONS FOR PULLING OUT SEWAGE Hello, I have a question concerning the installation of a toilet in a cabin that is around 300 feet from the main home, septic tank, and field.
Is too much slope a concern in this circumstance, given the considerable distance that the effluent must travel to reach the tank?
Do you think that building a sewage pump would make any difference in this circumstance, considering that the septic tank is located downhill from the toilet?
There should be a thorough inspection of the whole sewage line (perhaps using a sewer camera), and any slope issues should be addressed.
It’s always filled, no matter how long you wait.
Is it necessary to have the angle coming out of the home re-done?
What type of valve is used to connect the pump to the drain field?
Alternatively, seeSEWER / SEPTIC LINES for STEEP SITES FAQs- questions and answers that were originally placed at the bottom of this page. Alternatively, consider the following:
Steep Slope Septic System Articles
- SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
- SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN ALTERNATIVES-home
- SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN BASICS-home
- SEWER / SEPTIC LINES at STEEP SITES
- STEEP SLOPE SEPTIC DESIGNS
- SEPTIC CONSULTANTS, DESIGNERS, ENGINEERS
- SEPTIC CONSULT
Suggested citation for this web page
INSPECTION OF SEWER AND SEPTIC LINES AT STEEP SITES An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.
INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to DRAIN SEPTIC SEWER PIPES
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How to Install a Septic Tank with Drain Line
It is discussed in this article how to set up a septic tank with a drain line. A three-compartment septic tank is covered in detail in this project, which includes all of the processes required to complete the installation. This septic tank has adequate capacity to accommodate 4-6 people, making it an excellent choice for most households. Even if the installation is straightforward, you will need to rent a mini-excavator or, ideally, a backhoe digger to do the job properly. It is important to exercise caution when using detergents, disinfectants, or other acid cleansers since they will interfere with the operation of the bacteria that decompose the waste materials.
A simple explanation for how the system works is that the majority of the trash is transformed into sewage water.
Every two years, you will be required to remove the solids from the system.
The water will then be able to seep into the soil through the gravel layer.
Made from this plan
The construction of the sewage lines from the home to the site of the septic tank is the first step in the project’s development. Excavate the trenches such that the pipes have a 1/8 inch dip each foot of excavation. The pipes must be placed on a bed of sand and then completely covered with sand. The sand will protect the pipes, and it will also serve as an excellent marker for future operations, should it be necessary to dig further trenches. Decide on the position of the septic tank and mark the area with a marker.
- Furthermore, the depth of the hole will be decided by the size and placement of the septic tank as well as the location of the sewage line.
- We also employed a dumper truck to remove the soil from the site.
- Make certain that the sewer pipe has a 1.5 percent slope when it is installed.
- We relocated the septic tank with the help of a backhoe digger after securing it with a heavy-duty strap and moving it.
- Check to verify that the septic tank intake is compatible with the sewer pipe.
- We used a spirit level to ensure that the tank was upright during the installation.
- Sand should be poured around the tank.
If you do not fill the tank with water, it will collapse due to the weight of the earth on top of the container.
We will not be constructing a drain field for this project, but rather an 80-foot-long trench.
You may either construct two 40-foot-long trenches or a wide surface area and install three 25-foot-long drain pipes on it.
We connected the header pipe to the septic tank, ensuring that it had a 2 percent slope to prevent backflow.
Because it will move quite swiftly, using a backhoe digger is highly recommendable.
Trenches should be filled with gravel to the point where the drain pipe (which is normally 4′′ in diameter and perforated) has a 1/8′′ per foot slope.
Using a 4′′ layer of gravel, cover the drain pipe and make sure the surface is level.
Geothextile cloth should be used to cover the trench.
Because the fabric prevents the pebbles from becoming mixed with the soil and clogging the drain pipe, it is effective.
At the end of the drain pipe, you must add a vent pipe to provide for proper ventilation.
This also allows for simple access to the drain pipe in the event that it has to be cleaned.
We moved the earth that we had dug back into the trenches with the use of the backhoe’s front loader bucket and a rake.
First and foremost, you must connect the riser to the septic tank.
In order to have easy access to the tank for maintenance and inspection, the top of the riser should be slightly above the level of the surrounding ground.
These sheets are thin and rather stiff, despite their small weight.
As a result, you must first cover the tank with these sheets, followed by a 4′′ layer of dirt on top of that.
The polystyrene sheets must be covered with dirt once they have been laid out on the ground.
Work carefully so that you do not harm the tank.
On the blog, you can also get a comprehensive guide on how to construct a concrete pump house.
Make sure to read the previous articles in the Brick House Construction Series to see what more is in store for you!
We appreciate you taking the time to read our article on how to construct a septic tank with drain line, and we encourage you to go through the rest of our projects. Please spread the word about our articles to your friends by using the social media sharing buttons.
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A septic system is made up of two lengths of pipe that are connected together. Initially, it runs from the house, where the system services are located, to a tank, where the waste is separated and solids settle out. The second section runs from the tank to the drainage field, where fluids from the tank are dispersed into the earth underneath the tank. The process of installing the first run of pipe is quite similar to that of installing a traditional sewage line. It is necessary to maintain a downhill slope to the storage tank.
Locating the Septic Tank
The tank serves as the nerve center of the septic system. It is required to be situated between the residence and the drainage field. Each and every septic installation must begin with a soil test, and depending on the results, soil conditions may necessitate the placement of the tank in a less-than-ideal site for digging sewer lines. Also required are minimum setback distances from property borders, functioning wells, surface water and other obstructions to provide a safe working environment.
Tank Depth
A standard septic tank has a 4-inch intake at the top, which is positioned towards the bottom. Ideally, a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the pipe from the house should be maintained by the pipe connecting to it. To put it another way, for every 10 feet of distance between a tank and a home, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches lower than where the pipe departs the house at its lowest point. The pipe usually exits at ground level, although it may need to pass beneath a foundation footing or concrete pad in rare cases.
Digging the Trench
The trench for the septic pipe should be dug before the hole for the tank since you will need a backhoe to complete the work and the tank will get in your way if it is already in the ground. To allow rainfall to drain properly, the pipe should be placed on a 2- or 3-inch bed of drain rock, so remember to account for this extra depth when digging. It is normal to use a four-inch pipe, and it should be installed far enough down to link with the main soil stack, which is a three-inch pipe that runs vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof of the home.
Precautions
Local building and health agencies will demand permits for a septic tank installation. You will also be required to submit a design plan before the permits will be provided, so prepare ahead of time. This layout should be developed in collaboration with a local builder who is familiar with the unique characteristics of the topography in your neighborhood. Stay away from planting trees or plants near the tank, drainage field, or any of the pipe systems.
They will be drawn to the pipes in their hunt for nutrition, and their roots will be able to successfully block them. You will be unable to use your septic system until the roots have been removed from the pipe. Removal can be both expensive and time-consuming.
How to Locate Your Septic Tank
It may seem impossible to imagine that one of the largest and most visible elements of your whole plumbing system is also one of the most difficult to locate, but when your property is served by a septic system, this is perfectly true. A strong explanation for this is because septic tanks are huge, unattractive, stink horrible and give off an unwarranted impression of dirt. Not only does burying them underground assist to prevent them from harm, but it also provides you with additional useable space on your property and conceals what would otherwise be a blight on your landscape.
This site is dedicated to assisting you in locating your septic system without the need for any time-consuming digging.
How To Find A Septic Tank: Step By Step
The fact that one of the largest and most visible elements of your whole plumbing system is simultaneously one of the most difficult to locate may seem impossible to believe, but when your property is served by a septic system, this is exactly true! There’s a solid reason for this: septic tanks are huge, unattractive, smell unpleasant, and give off an unwarranted impression of dirt. Not only does burying them underground assist to prevent them from harm, but it also provides you with additional useable area on your property and hides what would otherwise be a blight on your neighborhood.
You may identify your septic system using this blog, which eliminates the need for any time-consuming, labor-intensive digging.
1. Gather Some Helpful Tools
Septic tank location may be made much easier with the use of several simple instruments and techniques. To locate your septic tank, you only need to know the following information: A soil probe is one of the most useful instruments for locating a septic tank. It is a tiny piece of metal that is used to puncture through the earth and detect anything that could be buried underneath. Start at the point where your sewage line exits your home and work your way straight out, inserting your soil probe every two feet along the way.
Using this method, you may also locate the cover for your septic tank.
While we highly advise keeping your cover clean and exposed in the event that you require emergency septic service, we recognize that this is not always the case.
2. Use a Septic Tank Map
If you are a new homeowner who is trying to figure out where your septic tank is, a septic tank map should be included in your inspection documentation.
You can use this information to assist you in pinpointing the exact position of your storage tank. If you don’t have access to this map, there are a few of additional strategies you might employ.
3. Start Ruling Areas Out
The location of a septic tank cannot be constructed in specific areas due to the risk of causing major damage to your property or tank, as specified by local rules. Your septic tank will not be affected by the following:
- Immediately adjacent to your well
- Beneath your home
- Directly against your home
- For example, underneath your driveway
- Under trees
- And other locations. Structures like a patio or deck are good examples of this.
4. Inspect Your Property
If you take a hard look around your land, there’s a high possibility you’ll be able to locate your septic tank without having to do any probing whatsoever. In many circumstances, a septic tank may be identified by a slight dip or slope on your land that cannot be explained by any other means. Due to the fact that the hole that your contractors excavated for your septic tank may not have been exactly the proper size, they proceeded to install the tank anyhow. This is a rather regular occurrence.
When there is a minor divot or depression, it indicates that the hole was too large and that your contractors simply did not fill the depression to level the hole.
The likelihood of your septic tank being discovered in a few specific locations is quite high.
- Your water well, if you have one (for a variety of reasons that are rather clear)
- Any paved surfaces (it won’t be under a patio, sidewalk, or driveway unless they were added after the home was built and no one performed a proper inspection before it was built)
- Any paved surfaces (it won’t be under a driveway, sidewalk, or patio unless they were added after the home was built and no one conducted a proper inspection before it was built)
- Any paved surfaces (it won’t be under a patio, sidewalk, or driveway unless they were added after the home was built If there is any particular landscaping
5. Inspect Your Yard
A comprehensive investigation of your yard may be necessary to discover your septic tank considerably more quickly in some cases. The following are important items to check for in your yard:
- It is possible that a comprehensive survey of your yard can assist you in finding your septic tank much more quickly. In your yard, search for the following important things:
The metal soil probe can let you find out for certain whether or not your septic tank is located in a certain area of your yard or not. As soon as your metal soil probe makes contact with the tank, you may use your shovel to dig out the grass surrounding it and discover the septic tank lid.
6. Follow Your Sewer Main/Sewer Pipes
Following your sewage lines is one of the most straightforward methods of locating your septic tank. These pipes have a diameter of roughly 4 inches and are commonly found in the basement or crawlspace of your house. They are not dangerous. Following the pipes from your house out into your yard, using your metal soil probe every 2 feet or so until you reach the tank, is a simple process once they are located. Aside from that, every drain in your home is connected to your sewage main, which in turn is connected to your septic tank.
The likelihood that one of your major sewer lines is located in your basement or crawlspace is high if you have exposed plumbing lines in your basement or crawlspace.
If the line is labeled, it is usually made of plastic or rubber. It is important to determine where this line exits your property and in which direction it is moving, as it often travels straight out to the septic tank itself.
7. Check Your Property Records
Lastly, if all else fails, a search of your property’s public records will almost certainly reveal the location of the tank you’re looking for. Your builders most likely secured a permit for your property because septic systems are required to be installed by law in every state. In order to do so, they had to develop a thorough plan that depicted your property as well as the exact location where they intended to construct the tank. This is done to ensure that the local health department is aware of the tank and is prepared to deal with any issues that may arise as a result of its presence.
If you look hard enough, you may be able to locate the original building records for your home without ever having to get in your car or visit your local records center.
What to Do Once You Find Your Septic Tank
Upon discovering the position of your septic tank, you should mark its location on a map of your property. Use something to indicate the location of your lid, such as an attractive garden item that can’t be changed, to help you locate it. A birdbath, a rock, or a potted plant are just a few of the possibilities. You are now ready to arrange your septic tank inspection and pumping service. Contact us now! If you have any more concerns regarding how to locate your septic tank, or if you want septic tank servicing, please contact The Plumbing Experts at (864) 210-3127 right now!
