How To Instal A Round Plastic Septic Tank? (Solution found)

  • Dig a large hole that can fit your plastic septic tank below the ground. Use your laser transit to locate the top of the intake pipe and measure the distance from the top of the intake pipe to the bottom of the tank.

How do you install a plastic septic tank?

7 Steps to a New Plastic Septic System

  1. Step 1: Design Your System. The first step is to design your entire system carefully.
  2. Step 2: Seek Permits.
  3. Step 3: Gather Equipment.
  4. Step 4: Install Intake Pipe.
  5. Step 5: Install Plastic Septic Tank.
  6. Step 6: Install Draining Field.
  7. Step 7: Inspection and Filling In.

How deep do you bury a plastic septic tank?

Whatever the case may be, knowing the depth of your septic tank can be a difficult thing given the circumstances, especially if you don’t know where the lids are. The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.

How do you keep a plastic septic tank from floating?

A concrete collar around a septic tank helps prevent it from floating in highly saturated soil. Some manufacturers have incorporated anti-floatation methods into the construction of their products.

How does a round septic tank work?

Septic tanks work by allowing waste to separate into three layers: solids, effluent and scum (see illustration above). The solids settle to the bottom, where microorganisms decompose them. The scum, composed of waste that’s lighter than water, floats on top.

How long do plastic septic tanks last?

A septic tank can last between 20 and 40 years. The lifespan depends on the tank’s material. A steel tank lasts 20 years, while a concrete tank lasts 40 years. Plastic tanks can last as long as 30 years.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

Can a leach field be too deep?

Drain Field Depth The result is a drain field about 3 to 4 feet deep. Sometimes, however, a drain field may need to be a bit shallower and can result in drain pipes as close to the surface as 6 inches. Underground obstacles can cause this situation.

Should septic tank lids be buried?

In most cases, all components of the septic tank including the lid are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. Unless the septic tank has special risers that position the lid at ground level, you’ll have to dig for it.

How can buoyancy be prevented?

Buoyancy countermeasures

  1. Base extension (cast-in-place or precast). Using the additional weight of soil by adding shelves is a common method used to counteract buoyancy.
  2. Anti-flotation slab.
  3. Increase member thickness.
  4. Lower structure elevation and fill with additional concrete.

Will a plastic septic tank float?

We are thankful for the rain, but it can cause a few septic system issues. Tanks can actually uproot from the ground and float after they are pumped! Plastic tanks and fiberglass tanks are most susceptible to floating after pumping if heavy rain occurs.

What happens to poop after you flush it?

From the toilet, your poop flows through the city’s sewage system along with all the water that drains from our sinks, showers and streets. From there, it goes to a wastewater treatment plant.

Does shower water go into septic tank?

From your house to the tank: Most, but not all, septic systems operate via gravity to the septic tank. Each time a toilet is flushed, water is turned on or you take a shower, the water and waste flows via gravity through the plumbing system in your house and ends up in the septic tank.

Do you need to pump both sides of a septic tank?

Septic tanks installed after the late 1980s have two compartments, and it is important to pump out both compartments each time. Most homeowners are unaware when their septic tank has two compartments; some companies use that to their advantage, charging to pump both sides of the tank but only actually pumping out one.

7 Steps to a New Plastic Septic System

Plastic septic tanks are only one important component of a home’s wastewater management system. There are several other components as well. When you are preparing for your plastic septic tank installation, it is critical to recognize and remember that there are several critical steps to take when installing a new septic system, and if you do not complete each of them carefully, you may be faced with some very expensive consequences down the road.

Step 1: Design Your System

The first step is to take your time and properly design your complete system. There is some critical information that you will need to investigate and get in order to complete this task. You will require a site survey to assist you in determining the borders of your land so that your septic system can be installed in accordance with local restrictions about how near to your neighbor’s property wastewater may be discharged underground. The following are the most crucial pieces of information to look for during the site survey:

  • In addition to the quantity of space available, the land’s topography should be considered as well as the purpose and estimated usage of water based on the size of your home, so you know how much water your septic system will have to treat on a regular basis the position of any wells on your property or on the properties of your neighbors

In addition, you will need to conduct a percolation test on the soils in the region where your plastic septic tank installation will take place. Performing this test is critical because it will determine whether or not the ground is suitable for a plastic septic tank, as well as what type of structural precautions you will need to take to ensure that the plastic septic tank does not fracture or crack under the pressure exerted by the surrounding ground. The following parameters will be measured by the soil test:

  • The kind of soil and the composition of the soil (sand, clay, rock, etc.)
  • Layering (in which different soil types are found at different depths)
  • The capacity of the earth to drain and filter effluent

Once you have completed these tests, you will have the information necessary to build a septic system that is appropriate for your home.

Step 2: Seek Permits

The second stage in the installation process is to submit your plans and applications to your local government in order to obtain the permissions and approvals that are necessary. In order to gain clearance for these designs, you must ensure that they are in compliance with all applicable plumbing and construction requirements. It is possible that you may be punished and compelled to remove your equipment if you do not obtain these critical permissions.

Step 3: Gather Equipment

Bring together all of the items that will be needed for your plastic septic tank installation. The following is a list of the equipment and parts that you will require:

  • Backhoe – this is by far the most effective method of digging the holes that will be required to install your septic system in the earth. In order to conduct some more accurate digging in the holes you dig with your backhoe, you’ll need a shovel. In order to assure exact measurements for digging, a laser transit surveying equipment is used. A grade pole is a surveying equipment that is used to accurately measure the depth of a hole while digging. (1) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the input pipe from your house, and it may also require fittings
  • And (2) – 4′′ Sch. 40 PVC pipe – this is the output pipe from your home, and it may also require fittings
  • (1) – 4′′ perforated pipe in accordance with ASTM D2729 – output pipe for dispersing effluent into draining field
  • (1) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with suitable fittings
  • (2) – 4′′ASTM D3034 pipe with appropriate fittings
  • – 4′′ Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps – to disperse gas buildup resulting from the degradation of waste in the septic tank
  • – 4′′ Sch. 40 test caps – to ensure that the tank is functioning properly. To join PVC pipes together, PVC primer and PVC adhesive are used. Cutting PVC pipe to the required length requires the use of a manual hand saw or an electric hand saw. The usage of a hammer drill and bits is required if you need to drill through the wall of your house in order to install the septic system. If you drill a hole through a PVC pipe, you may use hydraulic cement to seal the gap between the pipe and the wall of your home. The stone should be 1 12 inches in thickness and should be put below your septic system to guarantee proper drainage. Small and big tape measures – you will need at least 100 feet of tape, therefore it may be beneficial to have both a small and a large tape measure on hand
  • Septic fabric — You will need roughly 3 feet of fabric cut from a roll. Plastic septic tank and risers – check with your local rules to ensure that plastic septic tanks are permitted. Silicone caulk is used to seal the risers of the stairwell. If a septic filter is necessary, it should be installed. Check out the plumbing codes in your area. Distribution box made of plastic – this is utilized when running a system with many laterals to the draining field.

Step 4: Install Intake Pipe

Choose one of the sides of your home or structure from which you want the septic tank to take in waste water for treatment. It is necessary to dig down at least 2 feet and either make a hole in the wall or dig further into the footing of the home or structure at that location. If you have a gravity-fed system, you should design the flow such that it flows downhill, rather than uphill, because gravity-fed systems do not require mechanical techniques to transport waste from a tank to a drain field.

  1. Install the 4 inch Sch.
  2. It has to be level at the wall and slope down about 1/8 inch per foot toward the plastic septic tank, according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
  3. In the event that you swap pipes, make certain that you utilize the proper adaptor while connecting it to the plastic septic tank.
  4. If you decide to drill a hole in the wall, you must use hydraulic cement to seal the area around the hole, both on the inside of the building and on the outside as well as the inside.

If the pitch is excessively steep, the wastewater will flow too quickly through the system, causing the particles to become caught in the pipe. It is also possible that you will have insufficient space left to adequately drain the effluent into the draining field.

Step 5: Install Plastic Septic Tank

Excavate a huge hole deep enough to accommodate your plastic septic tank below the surface of the ground. Make use of your laser transit to identify the top of the intake pipe and measure the distance between the top of the intake pipe and the bottom of the tank with your tape measure. In order to get the depth you want, double that amount by 1 12 inches and add it to the measurement taken from your laser transit to your grade pole. Continue digging until you reach the desired depth. Afterwards, you must dig out your draining field (also known as a leach field) in accordance with the parameters of your survey results as well as any applicable local restrictions.

Step 6: Install Draining Field

Generally, a 12 inch coating of washed drain rock will be required surrounding the pipe in order to keep it stable while it is transporting stuff. According to your local health criteria, the size of the gravel and the depth of this layer will be determined. If you are placing perforated pipe in a gravity septic system drain field, keep in mind that the pipe has no slope on either end and is capped on both ends.

Step 7: Inspection and Filling In

Following the permission of your local health inspector, it is time to cover everything with dirt and finish the job. To cover your cleaned drain rock before covering it with soil, you will most likely need a specific cloth that functions as a filter, untreated construction paper, or four inches of straw to cover the drainage region.

Bonus for Pump Plastic Septic Tank Installations:

If you have a pumped plastic septic tank installation, there will only be a few variations in the process you will go through. Before you can connect your plastic septic tank to your draining field, you must first construct a pump chamber in your home. The pump chamber is constructed in a manner similar to that of the septic tank, but the electrical aspects of the pump will necessitate the services of a certified electrician to ensure that you are in compliance with state standards. Those who live in areas with a lot of groundwater may find that their pump chamber is mostly empty most of the time, and others may find that they need to add more weight to the floatation mechanism that switches the pump on and off.

Not until you have obtained your permits and asked for assistance from local septic specialists at the first indication of problems, not after you have put everything together, filled it in, and discovered evidence of sewage leakage when you first turn on the water, should you begin digging.

If any part of this instruction seemed unfamiliar to you, there’s no shame in asking for clarification! Early involvement with the specialists will save you a great deal of time, money, and the frustration of having to repair a septic system that was badly constructed.

» Installation Instructions

Underground Plastic Tank Installation|Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation is a type of underground plastic tank installation.

Underground Plastic Tank Installation

EXCAVATION

  • Choose a location with adequate subsoil drainage. Allow enough space around the tank for the backfill to be properly placed and compacted around the lower half of the tank Provision of a well-compacted or undisturbed bedding of sand/gravel combination or clean, granular soil: 6 inches or more in rock terrain, depending on the kind of terrain. Form the bedding to fit the underside of the tank.

SETTING UP THE TANK

  • Input and outlet orientations, as well as shipping damage, are all recorded on the Warranty Form.
  • To level the inlet and exit, place a pipe level across the access cover. It is critical that the outflow is located below the level of the entrance. CAUTION: Use caution when handling. A heavy hit, particularly in cold weather, might cause the tank to break.

IN ORDER TO AVOID FLOTATION OR DISTORTION

  • If poly tanks are pumped out during periods of high water table, they run the danger of floating or distorting at the base. During really rainy weather, keep the tank just partly full. Installation of a vertical length of 4′′ perforated drainage pipe beside the tank with a detachable cover above grade level to monitor the water table level after it has been filled is recommended. Attach the label provided on the standpipe. Avoid pumping the tank out below the water table at all costs. Drainage lines should be run from under the tank out to daylight and downward away from it if the tank is on sloping terrain.
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BACKFILLING

  • It is required that the tank be refilled when it is either empty or less than 30 percent full. The backfilling technique does not necessitate the use of water. If the tank has been filled for leak testing, empty it to 30 percent or less before refilling it. Backfill with a maximum of 12′′ layers of granular soil or clean fill and stomp the dirt to ensure uniform distribution. THERE WILL BE NO CLAY BACKFILL. The backfill must be correctly put and compacted around the lower part of the tank, which is very important. Do not place the machine compact near the tank. It is not recommended to dump significant amounts of fill near to the tank. Check the level of the tank on a regular basis. Make certain that the backfill under the inlet and output pipe connectors is compacted. Build up the support beneath the pipelines to prevent probable pipe breakage caused by the settling of backfill over time. If the tank has become heated due to exposure to sunshine, leave it to cool before continuing with the backfilling. If there is no riser, waterproof tape should be used to seal the lids.

CONNECTIONS FOR PIPE:

  • Make connections to the tank only when it is improbable that the tank will shift throughout the remainder of the backfilling. Rubber couplings of the type “Fernco” should be used
  • All water tanks must be vented through pipe with a minimum diameter of 2 inches
  • To allow pipes to deflect with tank expansion (in the case of water tanks), 90-degree elbows should be installed at output bulkhead connections. Make use of at least a 3-foot-long flexible hose from the pumps to allow for movement (if they are installed).

IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS FOR INSTALLATION:

  • Tanks are used for burying the dead. For above-ground installations, consult the manufacturer. In the absence of special approval, tanks are designed to withstand up to TWO FEET of earth cover at 300 lbs./square foot. A SUPERTANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
  • FLOUT DOSING TANKS are capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and 480 pounds per square foot of floor space
  • A FLOUT DOSING TANK is capable of withstanding four feet of earth cover and four pounds per square foot of floor space
  • Do not place yourself in the line of moving cars or heavy equipment. Keep a safe distance from big roots or rocks. Placement of the tank should be avoided in locations with a high water table. Use a reinforced tank in areas with a high water table
  • Avoid putting the tank in damp clay soils
  • And Surface runoff should be diverted away from the tank area. Fresh backfill has pores in it. Runoff might clog the area around the tank.

Download the Underground Tank Installation PDF Note: Installation instructions may differ depending on the jurisdiction in where the tank is installed. If you live outside of British Columbia, check with the factory. NOTE: If the manufacturer’s instructions are not followed exactly, the warranty will be voided.

Above Ground Plastic Tank Installation

WHAT KIND OF FOUNDATION IS REQUIRED?

  • It is necessary to have a sturdy, flat base that is continuous under the whole tank
  • Sand, fine gravel, clean soil, cement, or boards that are adequately supported and precisely spaced can be used as a base. Remove any pebbles that are bigger than half an inch in diameter. After filling the tank, check to see that it has not sunk and is still upright.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE A PLATFORM? Although it is possible, the tank bottom must be continually maintained, for example, with two layers of 3-4 inch plywood nailed together and to a sufficient support framework. In the sake of safety, it is recommended that an engineer be consulted. It is important to remember that the weight of water is 8.33 pounds per US gallon and 10 pounds per Canadian gallon. WHAT IS THE WEIGHT OF THE TANKS?

  • The weight of above-ground tanks may be approximated by dividing the gallon capacity by five, which yields the following result: For example, a 1000-gallon tank will weigh around 200 pounds. For subterranean tanks, multiply the gallon capacity by three to get the volume.

DO THEY APPEAR TO BE EASY TO MANAGE?

  • Almost all of the tanks may be transported using a pickup truck or a trailer. Considering that polyethylene is a fairly robust substance, it is doubtful that any damage would occur during cautious handling and transit. Extreme cold weather necessitates extra caution due to the fact that the tank will become harder and more fragile.

Is it possible to put pressure in the tank? NO! At all times, polyethylene tanks must be exposed to the outside environment or vented. Because they are mounted at a greater height, they can be utilized to supply a head of water, but they are not capable of being exposed to any external pressure sources. If required, install a float valve on the intake line. WHAT ABOUT THE PRODUCTION OF ALGAE? The entry of light into the tank encourages the growth of algae. Keeping the tank away from direct sunlight and using a darker tank color, as well as sanitation, can help to keep algae development under control.

  • Tanks are designed expressly for usage above or below ground, depending on their intended function. Above-ground tanks feature smooth sides and are exclusively intended for installation on the ground. The tanks may, however, be lowered into the ground to a depth equal to 20 percent of the tank’s height in order to lower the tank’s above-ground profile

WHAT ACCESSORIES ARE INCLUDED WITH THE TANK?

  • The bottom of the majority of above-ground water tanks is equipped with a 1 inch or 2 inch female threaded pipe connection, while the top is equipped with a 16 inch access cap. Breather valves are included into the access caps, allowing air to enter and exit when the water level changes. Making the necessary connections can be accomplished with the assistance of a local plumber or plumbing supply company. Check to verify that the bulkhead drain/outlet fittings are securely fastened to the tank. As a result, while tightening external connections, the lock nut on the fittings features a reverse thread to prevent it from coming free. Hand tighten threads several rounds to ensure that the threads are aligned and that the possibility of stripping is minimized. When the tank is completely full, check for leaks and tighten only enough to prevent any leaks. Excessive tightening may result in the threads of the pipe being stripped or the bulkhead fittings being cracked, requiring replacement. Additional connections for intake pipes are provided on an as-needed basis in response to client requests. Pipe Sizing Chart may be used to determine approximate pipe sizes.

DOES SUNLIGHT HAVE ANY IMPACT ON THE TANKS?

  • Over time, exposure to sunshine causes the plastic to harden, making it more prone to shattering if the tank is subjected to a significant amount of force. Almost all of Premier Plastics’ tanks are treated with a UV inhibitor, which helps to reduce the hardening process. Tanks that are darker in color or black will likely survive longer.

WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT COLLECTING RAINWATER?

  • Rainwater collection is a good technique to bridge periods of limited water supply. The usage of a filter basket is recommended to screen out leaves, twigs, and other material that may enter the gutter system from the eaves troughs. Boiling or disinfection of water is required for all uses including drinking, cooking, and dishwashing. It is possible to use clean rainwater for large-volume applications such as toilet flushing and laundry, showering, cleaning automobiles, and watering the yard. A ‘Pneumatic Dipstick’ level gauge from Premier Plastics may be used to monitor the water level in a container.

WHAT IS THE DURATION OF THE WARRANTY?

  • However, you can expect many more years of service from your above-ground tanks, which are covered by an eight-year warranty. All underground water tanks and septic tanks are covered by a ten-year manufacturer’s guarantee. Polyethylene will persist practically indefinitely in the subsurface environment. Fill out the warranty form and send it back to Premier Plastics Inc.

ARE THE TANKS SAFE FOR USING AS DRINKING WATER STORAGE?

  • No. Our food-grade polyethylene tanks are built in accordance with FDA rules 21 CFR 177.1520(c)3.1, NSF Standard 61, and Canadian Standards Association (CSA) 6861-05
  • And, yes, they are recyclable. It is, of course, your job to ensure that the water in the tank is of high quality. Water quality information may be received from a variety of sources, including water delivery corporations, well drillers, and public health authorities. A new tank’s bottom may include small particles of polyethylene that have been cleaned but not disinfected. Factory tanks are clean but not disinfected. These are created while cutting holes for fittings and will float to the surface when filled or can be cleaned out
  • They are created when cutting holes for fittings.

WILL I BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE IN TASTE?

  • Ideally, your pipework should be linked in such a manner that incoming water is constantly flushing through the tank
  • Water that has been sitting in any form of vented container for an extended amount of time will develop a “flat” flavor. This is due to the fact that the water has lost its ability to hold air. This may be partially remedied by half-filling a closed jar with water and rapidly shaking it to introduce air back into it

HOW CAN A STORAGE TANK ASSIST A SLOW PRODUCING BUSINESS SUCCESS?

  • Numerous customers are reporting a decrease in the flow rate from their water wells. Well pumps are often designed to generate water “on demand,” which means that if your bathtub fills at a rate of 5 gallons per minute, the well must supply water at a rate of 5 gallons per minute for the whole time the bath is running. Using a storage tank, short times of high demand may be met by drawing from the tank rather than straight from the well. If a storage tank is employed, a household consuming 400 gallons per day would require their well to generate no more than 400 gallons over the course of 24 hours. On average, a well only has to produce half a gallon per minute for 24 hours to fulfill a family’s water demands. A popular technique is to drop a truckload of water down a slow-producing well in order to speed up production. There would be no loss of water due to seepage if all water deliveries were stored into a storage tank, resulting in cost savings. Your local well driller can provide you with system sizing and planning information.

HOW DOES IT EXPERIENCE IF MY TANK FREEZES?

  • It is improbable that a tank that is just partly filled will rupture. The ice will cause the walls to bulge as a result of the pressure. Only over prolonged periods of cold weather can a tank become prone to freezing. Piping should be shielded or drained during freezing weather since the lesser volume of water in the piping will freeze more quickly and may cause the pipe to split. Consult with a contractor who is knowledgeable with the conditions
  • The tank can be insulated with a waterproof insulation or housed in an insulated shed if the risk of freezing is high. An underground tank provides the best protection against freezing conditions. It will also help to keep the water cold throughout the hot months.

How to Install a Plastic Septic Tank

Home-Diy Septic tanks constructed of lightweight plastic are convenient for transporting and moving, but they can bend when put in unstable soils and float when installed in saturated soils without sufficient ballast, making them less effective. Flotation is particularly problematic in plastic pump chambers that are low on liquid while operating on wet soils. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); then this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace; (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> (//$/, “), ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> (/public/images/log Plastic septic tanks are a cost-effective and lightweight alternative to concrete septic tanks.

Plastic tanks are a viable alternative when concrete septic tank trucks are unable to access a spot or when the region is sensitive to heavy machinery such as construction sites.

Professionals that are aware with the long-term concerns that homeowners who use plastic septic tanks encounter can provide guidance on how to avoid additional problems in the future.

  1. Make the necessary excavations where the new plastic tank will be installed per the specifications provided by the tank’s manufacturer with the help of an excavator. Make use of a laser level to check elevations
  2. Attach a chain to the excavator’s bucket by threading it through the lifting eyes that have been formed into the tank. Lifting the tank with the excavator and lowering it into the pit is a common practice. Remove the tank from the excavator with a hammer. Lifting any thing or equipment off the ground is perilous. Maintain a safe gap between you and the rest of the work group. A chain should be threaded through the lifting eyes on the concrete weights and then attached to the excavator. Lift and position the concrete weights on either side of the tank. Drape the cable over the top of the plastic tank and thread the cable through the lifting eyes on the other concrete weight
  3. Thread the cable through the lifting eyes on the other concrete weight
  4. Thread the cable through the cable clamps and tighten the bolts with a socket wrench to ensure that the clamp is securely attached to the cable. Fill the tank with water using a garden hose that has been inserted into the tank. Using the excavator, backfill the hole with earth at the same time as you are digging. Vibratory compactors should be used to compact the soil in 6- to 8-inch intervals.

The Drip Cap

  • Despite the fact that septic tanks constructed of lightweight plastic are simple to carry and move, they can bend when put in unstable soils and float when planted in saturated soils without adequate ballast. Lifting any cargo or piece of equipment off the ground is extremely risky
  • Nonetheless, A chain should be threaded through the lifting eyes on the concrete weights and then attached to the excavator.

How to Install Septic Holding Tanks

Home-Diy Septic holding tanks are a long-term temporary solution for sewage disposal that is used for a variety of purposes. The garbage is held in the tank until it is removed by a waste removal service. Holding tanks must be monitored on a regular basis to ensure that waste does not overflow onto the surrounding ground. The only difference between a permanent septic system and a holding tank is that the holding tank does not have an outflow.

  • Excavator, dump truck, shovels, rakes, septic site plan, PVC pipe, pea gravel, level, and a leveling block
  1. Obtain any building permissions that may be necessary by local legislation and regulations. Obtain approval for the building location in addition to the blueprints
  2. Drainage surrounding the tank should be planned in advance. Depending on your local rules, you may be required to construct a leaching field for gray water. The field must be located far enough away from any water source, wetland, or structure in order to minimize pollution and seepage in the event of a tank overflow. Determine the location of the main sewage pipe in the house. Locate the place where the line leaves the home and comes back into the house. It is possible that you will have to dig around the exit point in order to reach the end of the line. To complete the line, connect the 10-foot PVC pipe to the other end. An adapter ring should be attached to one end of the PVC pipe in order to connect it to the sewage line. Take a measurement from the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the input pipe and multiply it by two. This is the bare minimum depth at which the tank must be buried underground to be effective. Take a measurement of the tank’s width. To get the depth and breadth of the installation pit, subtract 2 feet from each values. Measure and mark a line from the end of the drain pipe leading from the house to the site of the tank pit, starting at the house and ending at the tank pit. Cut a segment of PVC pipe that is the same length as the distance and add 12 inches
  3. Dig the hole according to the measurements taken from the septic tank, keeping in mind to add 2 feet to the depth and breadth specifications. Pour in a 1-inch layer of pea gravel to serve as a foundation. Hand-level the pit’s base with a rake and a carpenter’s level to ensure a level foundation. In order to get precise measurements of its contents, the tank must be leveled. A boom truck was used to lower the tank. Check the correctness of your measurements and make any necessary adjustments to the pit size or base
  4. Connect the second PVC pipe to the inlet pipe using a crimping tool. Flush the toilet several times to ensure that the connections and tank are in good working order
  5. Glue the other end of the PVC pipe to the main sewage line
  6. Obtain approval from the appropriate authorities for the installation
  7. Backfill the hole with earth until just the hatch at the top of the tank can be seen above the dirt. Make a layer of grass seed on the ground
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The Drip Cap

  • Septic holding tanks are a long-term temporary option for sewage disposal
  • Nonetheless, they are not recommended. Holding tanks must be monitored on a regular basis to ensure that waste does not overflow onto the surrounding ground. Obtain approval for the building location in addition to the blueprints
  • It is possible that you will have to dig around the exit point in order to reach the end of the line. Connect the 10-foot PVC pipe to the other end of the line to complete the circuit. To get the depth and breadth of the installation pit, subtract 2 feet from each values. Using a boom truck, lower the tank to the ground.

Septic Tank Installation and Pricing

To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. In this article, we’ll go over the different types of septic systems available to homeowners, as well as the process and costs associated with installing one. Although you can install a septic tank yourself, we recommend hiring a professional because of the amount of expertise and specialized equipment that is required.

Who Needs a Septic Tank?

For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.

How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.

Receive Multiple Estimates

Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.

Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit

For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.

Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test. Prior to acquiring the land that you want to utilize for residential purposes, we recommend that you obtain a soil test.

Plan for Excavation

Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home. Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected.

The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank

There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.

Percolation Test

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Building Permit Application

A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.

Excavation and Installation

When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.

Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.

Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.

It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land. The average cost of these systems is roughly $8,000.

Types of Septic Tanks

  • Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000

More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.

Using Your Septic Tank

It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.

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Septic Tank Installation Cost Andover MN

Individual Septic Systems are most commonly used to service Minnesota houses that are not linked to a Municipal Sewer System. Residents of cities such as Andover MN may find themselves in need of a New Septic Tank System or requiring an upgrade to an existing Septic Tank System that has malfunctioned or failed a Compliance Inspection at some point. It is possible that the Septic Tank may need to be replaced by a concrete, plastic, fiberglass, or steel holding tank at some time. You don’t have to worry about bringing your septic tank system up to codeif you seek the assistance of an experienced Minnesota septic contractor likeCustom Septic, Inc.

OurLicensed Professionalscan assist you in determining which type of tank is most appropriate for your requirements and budget.

Cost to Install Underground Septic Tank

Installation When determining which type of Septic Tankto have built on your property, the cost might be a significant consideration. Others consider the ongoingMaintenance Costof the septic system to be quite significant. Another crucial element to consider is the durability of the product. The cost of installing an Underground Septic Tank can vary significantly based on the location, the materials used, and the company that does the installation. According to a national study, the average amount paid by homeowners ranged from around $2700 to $7400 each year.

The most expensive item was closer to $12,000 in price.

Common Types of Septic Tanks

Underground septic tanks can be constructed from a range of different types of materials. Each has advantages and disadvantages that make them both worthy of consideration. It is possible to work with a Minnesota Septic Contractor to determine which type of septic tank is most appropriate for your Andover, MN house or Minnesota Cabin.

  1. Minnesota houses and cabins are the most prevalent uses for this material. Durable enough to last for decades of use
  2. Cracks and separation should be checked on a regular basis. Tanks made of metal may hold more liquid than plastic tanks. The cost of glass is higher than that of steel or plastic.
  1. Lightweight and resistant to rust and cracking
  2. Corrosion-resistant
  3. More vulnerable to harm as a result of faulty installation
  4. If not placed correctly, the structure may move in the soil.
  1. Exceptionally little weight
  2. Rust and corrosion resistant If not handled with care during installation, it is susceptible to harm. In comparison to concrete holding tanks, it holds less wastewater. Lower initial outlay of funds
  1. Underground septic tanks are the least prevalent form of septic tank. Over time, it is susceptible to rust, corrosion, and collapse. The septic tank that is the least durable
  2. Check for damage on a regular basis.

Licensed MN Septic Professional

If you find yourself in need of a New Septic Tank Installation, get in touch with the professionals at Custom Septic, Inc. (CSI). It has been more than twenty years since we have been in the sewage industry that we are licensed MN Septic Contractors. Our team of highly trained septic professionals is available to provide you with services that are tailored to your specific requirements.

We perform Septic Compliance Inspections and may assist you in determining which type of Septic Tank Systemis the most appropriate for your needs in terms of quality, durability, and cost. Custom Septic, Inc. (CSI) in Andover, Minnesota, may be reached at [email protected] or (763) 218-4769.

How to Install a Septic System

Documentation Download Documentation Download Documentation In rural regions of the nation where waste water treatment is not accessible, private on-site wastewater treatment systems (POWTS), also known as septic systems, are utilized largely to treat waste water. Gravity fed/conventional systems are divided into two broad categories: 1. gravity fed/conventional systems and 2. alternative (pump) systems, which include aerobic treatment units (ATUs.) In most cases, electric pumps are used in alternative systems.

However, in many health jurisdictions across the United States, it is still feasible for an individual property owner with heavy equipment operation skills to utilize a backhoe to establish a septic system on their land.

Steps

  1. 1 Make a plan and design for your system. Performing a site survey and conducting a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS is to be placed are both required initial steps in any septic system installation. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.
  • The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:
  • Available space
  • Terrain
  • Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
  • Location of the well and/or nearby wells
  • And other factors.
  • The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:
  • The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
  • The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  • And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  1. 2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement
See also:  What Kind Of Drain Cleaner For Aerobic Septic Tank? (Solution)

Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

  1. 1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:
  • Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
  • A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
  • A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
  • PVC primer and adhesive
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
  • Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
  • The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
  • Shovel
  • Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
  • Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
  • Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
  • Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
  • Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
  • A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
  • A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
  • And a septic tank.
  • 2 Determine the location of the entrance to the building in relation to the location of the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.
  • The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.
  • Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
  • Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.
  • 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the desired depth
  • Prepare your leech field by laying it out and excavating it according to the results of the test performed during the permit application procedure. Maintaining a good flow between the tank and the drain field should be considered when planning out and digging the tank.
  1. 4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
  2. Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement
  1. A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.
  • Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.
  1. Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement

Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system parts, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. 3 3Cover the tank and pressurized lines when the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement;

  • Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
  • It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
  • Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
  • Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

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  • The use of aerobic bacterial additives (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and properly functioning system, as claimed by manufacturers on a periodic basis, is controversial. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additives will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of sludge, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is required. The aerobic (moist or dry) portion of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little good even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of additives in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent study that has been published in a credible scientific journal anywhere in the world, including this country. This will almost certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each step of the construction process will almost certainly include an inspection by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that contains a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines can move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp rocks from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
  • And

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  • Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.

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Things You’ll Need

  • The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
  • PVC pipe with perforations
  • Material for embedding
  • PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
  • Course file
  • Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.

About This Article

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Septic systems are one of the most “simple” and “complicated” designs in the building industry, depending on your perspective. They are made of simple materials, and the majority of the time, they are not mechanical. There are no moving components, in other words! The Septic Tank, which is the most important component of the system, is a waterproof container that is installed underground (the majority of variants are circular or rectangular). They can be made of concrete, plastic, or fiberglass, among other materials.

The tank is equipped with two pipes: an intake pipe and an output pipe.

In order for the processed wastewater from the septic tank to be evenly sent into the drainfield, the output pipe must be installed.

This baffle is intended to prevent scum from obstructing the entrance or exit pipework and causing a septic system to fail.

Are you unsure whether or not you have a baffle(s)?

Danny’s Septic is the most trusted septic installation company in Palm Beach County and the neighboring areas, covering the whole county.

All septic system installations and repairs are always provided at no cost to the customer.

If you know or think that your property need a new septic system, contact us immediately or call us at 561-689-1555 for a free consultation. Our staff is delighted to answer any and all questions you may have about our products and services.

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