- Build your replacement baffle using the PVC pipe and coupling. Cut one section of pipe to connect to the existing drain and pass through the wall of the septic tank. Attach the tee coupling to the pipe on the interior of the tank.
How do you install a sanitary tee on a septic tank?
The center of the plastic tee is inserted into the septic tank inlet opening just inside the tank, and the tee is installed vertically as you can see in our sketch above. If the center of your plastic tee is female rather than male, the larger hub may not fit into the septic tank inlet or outlet opening.
How does a baffle tee work?
The baffle is inside the tee and it directs the water, that is being ejected from the disposal with force, downward. With out the baffle the pressure is to great and the water will shoot the wrong way. In the photo below the water comes from the disposal on the right, the baffle is in the tee.
How deep should a septic baffle be?
The inlet baffle should extend at least six inches below the invert of the pipe, but no more than 20% of the liquid depth. The outlet baffle should extend between 35 and 40% of the liquid depth.
Does a septic tank need a baffle?
A septic tank should have baffles at both the inlet and outlet. The purpose of the inlet baffle is twofold: to direct flow from the house sewer downward into the tank to create a longer detention time for the sewage to allow settling of solids, and to keep the floating scum layer from plugging the inlet pipe.
Does a septic tank need an inlet baffle?
Inlet baffles are needed for proper performance of the septic tank. Raw sewage from the residence is directed by the baffle downward into the middle zone of the septic tank. This means the effluent follows a tortuous path through the tank, which provides the necessary detention time for the larger solids to settle out.
What is an inlet baffle?
The inlet baffle directs the flow of wastewater into your septic tank, and prevents the scum layer in the tank from being disturbed. It also can help prevent solids from backing up toward the house if you should experience a septic system backup.
How long should a septic tank baffle be?
The inlet baffle should extend at least 6 inches, but no more than 12 inches into the liquid level of the tank. The inlet baffle should extend 12 inches above the liquid level of the tank. This is a total baffle length of 18 to 24 inches.
Where is the baffle located?
The inlet baffle is situated at the junction between the septic tank and the main sewer line leading from the house. It’s designed to help wastewater flow smoothly into the tank without disturbing the scum layer.
What is a baffled tee?
Baffle Tees Block Floating Scum And Debris From Flowing Out Of Septic Tanks Into The Outlet Line To Prevent Clogging Drain Fields. Baffle Tees are designed for hi-line end and slip joint end outlet waste connections. Plumbing fittings are made of polypropylene plastic for long lasting durability.
How long should leach lines be?
The leach field is a series of trenches that may be up to 100-feet long and 1 foot to 3 feet in width, separated by six feet or more, depending on local requirements, and sometimes constructed leaving space between the original lines to install replacement leach lines when needed.
How much lower should the outlet be than the inlet on a septic tank?
Generally speaking, the outlet on a septic tank should be around 4–6″ lower than the inlet, depending on the size of the tank. The tank itself, when set in place, should be as level as possible. The height difference from inlet to outlet is accounted for in the tank’s manufacture.
What is an effluent filter?
Effluent filters are devices that can be affixed to outlets of septic tank and grease trap as pictured at right (Figure 1). The filter is a primary screening barrier designed to reduce the volume of solids passing out of the tank and through to the soil absorption system (SAS).
How to Build a Septic Tank Baffle
In your septic tank, a baffle is an essential component, since it prevents solid waste from entering the field lines and also from backing up into the house drainage system. It is necessary to replace or repair the baffle if it has been broken, knocked off, or rusted out completely. When a plumber uses a drain router to unclog a pipe, he or she might knock off a baffle. The router collides with the baffle and falls into the septic tank, where no one is aware of it until a problem arises.
Step 1
Cut a piece of PVC pipe that is approximately 24 inches in length. Although the pipe should ordinarily be 4 inches in diameter, the diameter of the pipe should match the diameter of the drain line coming from your property (usually 4 inches). In addition to connecting to the drain line, this portion of pipe will also extend into the septic tank. On the inlet side of the tank, you’ll find this.) The pipe coupler should be glued to one end of the pipe after it has been cleaned with the pipe cleaner and secured in place.
Step 2
Also, make sure you clean the opposite end of the pipe and the center hole on the tee fitting before continuing. Apply a generous amount of adhesive to the pipe before inserting it into the tee fitting. As the pipe is being inserted into the fitting, twist it slightly to assist in spreading the adhesive evenly. Hold the pipe in place for a few seconds to enable the adhesive to cure a little bit more before moving ahead.
Step 3
Another portion of PVC pipe should be cut. When this portion is installed, it will extend down into the septic tank from where it is connected to the tee fitting and must be long enough to pass through the surface sludge in the tank, which is usually no more than 6 inches thick. The pipe must be extended down roughly 12 inches past the sludge before it can be used. This portion should be reduced to 24 inches in length for safety reasons. This is accomplished by extending below the sludge and preventing it from entering the field lines or backing up into the home drain.
Step 4
One end of the pipe should be cleaned and the PC cement should be applied. The pipe should be inserted into one of the two holes on the tee fitting. To secure the pipe in place, twist it slightly again and keep it in place until the glue has had a chance to build up a little more.
Step 5
Measure and cut a final piece of PVC pipe that is approximately 6 inches long. Pipe cleaner should be used to clean both ends of the pipe before applying pipe cement to only one end of the pipe. Slide the other end of the tee fitting into the last opening in the fitting. Twist it gently and hold it in place for a few seconds to ensure it stays in place.
Step 6
Once you’ve cleaned the second pipe coupler, you’ll want to apply cement to the end of the short pipe you just fitted.
Slide the coupler onto the pipe and hold it in place for a few seconds to ensure that it is securely attached. Additional glue should be applied to the interior of the coupler before inserting the grate insert into the coupler. Allow for thorough drying of all fittings before installing them.
Expert Tips for Baffle Repair
Receive articles, stories, and videos about repair sent directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Repair+ Receive Notifications One perk of working on septic systems for more than 40 years is that the folks I’ve met and worked with are frequently willing to offer images or tales that they find interesting. In this particular instance, my colleague Kim Seipp emailed me a photo of a repair work she had completed in Colorado. Hopefully, everyone who reads this recognizes right away that this is not the appropriate method of repairing or replacing a baffle in a concrete tank.
- These baffles must be the right length and have a space between their top and the bottom of the tank lid to allow for the exchange of gases and the ventilation of the tank.
- Thus, sewage travels through the tank on an irregular course, providing the detention time necessary for bigger particles to be settled out before the effluent is transferred to the final treatment and dispersion section of the system.
- A floating scum blockage is prevented by the intake baffle from clogging the inlet pipe.
- It is necessary to maintain floating scum in the tank, which is composed of oil and soap residue, so that it can be removed when the tank is cleaned.
- A deteriorating concrete baffle at the exit of a septic tank is seen in this photograph.
- Due to the fact that the sanitary tee is connected to the tank’s output pipe by couplings, the person(s) who completed this project had the appropriate concept.
- This baffle will not perform the critical job of providing a relatively clear liquid to the next component of the system since there is no effluent filter in place.
- The concrete around the pipe may require repair, and a rubber gasket may need to be installed retroactively to guarantee that the tank stays watertight and root-free.
- The outlet baffle should be extended to a depth of 25 percent of the operating depth in the tank to ensure proper operation.
As an example, if the tank is 60 inches deep, the baffle would need to be 15 inches longer. I’d be interested in hearing how others might go about mending a baffle in the future. Leave a comment below or send an email to kim.[email protected] with your baffle repair suggestions.
Installing Baffles and Screens Correctly to Retain Solids
Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plus, there are Onsite Systems. Receive Notifications Sewage treatment plants are designed to hold sediments that collect in the soil. Solid waste can include a variety of items, some of which are byproducts of the waste treatment process and others which are materials that may not be capable of being treated, such as human hair. It is critical that the sediments remain in the septic tank and are not discharged into the surrounding environment.
- Baffles and screens are used in a variety of applications.
- It is the purpose of an inlet baffle to guide the incoming flow downward into the clear zone and to prevent the inlet pipes from becoming blocked with scum.
- A plate or partial wall baffle is one form of baffle that is isolated from the pipe system.
- Plate baffles can be added by the manufacturer before to the tank being delivered, or by the installer after the tank has been delivered.
- A sanitary tee is another sort of intake baffle that may be used.
- The installation of these is similar to that of plate baffles in that they are attached directly to the building sewage plumbing that is located on the interior of the tank.
- Some tanks are shipped with a sanitary tee already connected to the tank’s drain.
- It is critical to properly support this pipe since any settling increases the likelihood of leaks or the tee slipping out of alignment.
- There are two types of outlet baffles available: a partial wall baffle and a pipe arrangement.
- The tank exit is often equipped with an effluent filter, which removes any further suspended materials that might clog downstream components.
Additionally, the screen may be put into any regular golf hole. It is necessary to place the screen beneath the tank access so that it may be inspected and maintained. A number of things should be taken into consideration when selecting an effluent screen if one is to be employed.
- Receive articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Make your registration right now. Plus, there are On-Site Systems available to customers. Receive Notifications. Sewage treatment systems are designed to hold sediments that collect in the system. Human hair, for example, is a solid that is produced as a consequence of the waste treatment process, whereas other solids are materials that may not be capable of being treated. Keeping sediments contained in the septic tank and preventing them from reaching downstream components is extremely critical. Plugging might result from an excessive release of solids. Baffles and screens are used to separate two areas of space. Baffling is essential for the effective operation of the septic tank system. It is the purpose of an inlet baffle to guide the incoming flow downward into the clear zone and to prevent the inlet pipes from becoming blocked with scum layer. When it comes to intake baffles for tanks, there are normally two main types to choose from. Baffles that are not attached to the pipe are known as plate or partial wall baffles. These devices must be fastened to the walls using the proper fasteners to be effective (i.e., stainless steel connectors). Plate baffles can be added by the manufacturer before to the tank’s delivery or by the installer after the tank has been received. Tell us about the person who set up your equipment! A sanitary tee is yet another sort of intake baffle. Unlike a regular tee, which includes a flow line that will capture sediments, a sanitary tee does not have a flow line. The installation of these is similar to that of plate baffles in that they are attached directly to the building sewage plumbing that enters the tank from within it. Using the appropriate materials and processes, as indicated in the piping section, this typical PVC connection must be created. In some cases, the tank is shipped with an already-installed sanitary tee. Make certain that the stub of piping used to connect the intake baffle to the next pipe section is long enough to extend past the excavation so that the junction to the following pipe section is positioned over unexcavated soil. Due to the possibility of leaks or the tee being shifted out of plumb, it is critical that this pipe be properly supported at all times. Because effluent is pulled from the clear zone of the outlet baffle or screen, it is common for the baffle or screen to extend to around mid-depth of the tank’s operational depth. Partially recessed baffles or pipe configurations can be used as exit baffles. It is also possible to use an effluent screen instead of the outflow baffle. An effluent screen is often installed at the tank outflow to remove any excess suspended particles that might potentially block downstream components of the system. Private label screens frequently incorporate a housing that functions in the same way as an in-ground golf course tee Alternatively, the screen is intended to be fitted into a normal golf tee. To allow for inspection and maintenance, the screen must be positioned beneath the tank access hatch. A number of things should be taken into consideration when selecting an effluent filter if one is to be utilized.
A multi-compartment tank may be necessary or recommended in a number of circumstances. The added barrier may aid in the slowing down of the effluent as well as the retention of particles. Typically, a tank with compartments has a tee, slot, or central transfer hole in addition to the compartments. The initial compartment of a septic tank shall have a volume that is equal to or greater than the volume of any subsequent compartments, unless otherwise specified. To provide adequate ventilation of sewage gases via the plumbing stack in the facility, air must be forced to move from one compartment to another.
- The usage of a smoke test for verification or troubleshooting may be warranted.
- She holds a bachelor’s degree in civil engineering and a master’s degree in environmental science.
- Her responsibilities include serving as the education chair for the Minnesota Onsite Wastewater Association and the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association, as well as serving on the National Science Foundation’s International Committee on Wastewater Treatment Systems.
- Heger will respond as soon as possible.
3 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES
By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.
- Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.
- A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.
- When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.
- In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.
- Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.
- Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.
- In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.
Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.
grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.
Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.
Water conservation should be practiced.
Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.
Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.
The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.
Sanitary Tee and Filter Statesville, NC
So, what exactly is a hygienic tee shirt? In simple terms, it is a device that facilitates the movement of wastewater into and out of your septic tank. Typically, they range in diameter from 4″ to 6″ in diameter and can be built of clay, concrete, or PVC pipe.
The Inlet Tee
Using an intake tee, you can guide the flow of wastewater into your septic tank while also preventing the scum layer in the tank from being disturbed. It can also assist in preventing sediments from backing up toward the home in the case of an aseptic system backup. In most circumstances, the absence of an inlet tee has little effect on the general workability of the system, although it is highly beneficial to have one present. In our location, inlet tees and baffles are not a needed component by the Environmental Health Department.
The Outlet Tee
A needed and extremely crucial component of your septic system, the outlet tee or baffle must be installed. It is required in order for your system to perform correctly and to be compliant with applicable regulations. Designed to guide effluent (wastewater) flow from the tank to the drain field, the outlet tee prevents scum layer from escaping directly into the outlet pipe, creating drain field obstructions and system failure before it has a chance to occur. Tissue Tees are an inexpensive and straightforward fix that may save homeowners a considerable amount of money.
EFFLUENT FILTER
Septic Tank Effluent Filters reduce the amount of particulates in your septic tank’s effluent, extending the life of your system. Effluent filters are intended to extend the life of your drain field by keeping particles from exiting the septic tank during the draining process. These filters are capable of operating successfully for several years or more before they must be removed and cleaned. Clean the device every time the tank is pumped, or at the very least once every three years, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Continue to use it!
- A sludge (solid waste)
- An effluent (wastewater)
- A scum (solid fats, oils, grease, and other substances)
Solids drop to the bottom of the tank and congeal to produce sludge, where microorganisms breakdown the solids. The scum, which is made up of trash that is lighter than water, rises to the surface. In the drainage field, the middle layer of effluent leaves the tank and goes through an underground network of perforated pipes to the drainage field. Gravel and dirt operate as biological filters, allowing wastewater to be purified as it sinks into the earth. Keep the outlet effluent filter in place since it is required by your state’s health law.
- Waste particles may flow through the filter and block the drain field if it were not installed.
- Your filter, on the other hand, should not require cleaning every six months.
- You may be flushing filter-clogging things down the drain, such as grease, fat, or food scraps, if your filter is needing to be cleaned more frequently.
- A garbage disposal will not be able to break down food particles sufficiently to allow them to flow through the septic tank filtration system.
- Plastic materials, disposable diapers, paper towels, non-biodegradable items, and cigarettes will clog the system if they are flushed down the toilet.
- An vital function in the septic system is played by the tee or baffle.
- Of course, such scents might also be indicative of a malfunctioning drain field, necessitating additional investigation.
If the outlet tee is lost, it should be replaced, but you should also anticipate that the drainfield’s useful life will be significantly decreased in the future.
Tees and baffles that have been in use for a long period of time typically degrade.
The inlet sanitary tee is installed between the house sewer and the tank.
Tees that are now in use improve on the first purpose by including effluent filters to prevent big floating particulates or debris from entering the downstream flow.
Even while your septic tank is a crucial component of your septic system, your sanitary trough plays an even more critical function – in fact, missing sanitary troughs have been known to cause catastrophic harm to septic systems.
In simple terms, it is a mechanism that controls the flow of wastewater into and out of your septic tank.
Using an intake tee, you can guide the flow of wastewater into your septic tank while also preventing the scum layer in the tank from being disturbed.
By directing effluent from the tank to the drain field, this baffle prevents scum layer from escaping directly into the outlet pipe, resulting in drain field blockages and system failure before it has a chance to occur.
This can only be determined by peering inside the tank, and in certain circumstances, the tank must first be pumped in order to be able to see what is within.
If a tee is missing but isn’t sitting at the bottom of the tank, it’s reasonable to assume that it was never put in the first instance.
If you have a septic tank that is pumped on a regular basis, the pumping specialist should be inspecting the baffles. Sanitary tees can be replaced and installed by Lentz Wastewater.
WHAT SEPTIC BAFFLES ARE AND HOW THEY WORK
In its most basic form, your septic tank separates liquids from solids, then retains the solids until they can be pumped out while sending the liquids to a distribution field. However, this system is far more complicated than it appears at first look. However, these procedures might be a little more sophisticated than they appear at first glance. It is possible that certain sections of the tank, even if they are the simplest and most basic, may need to be replaced from time to time, such as the baffles at the entrance and outflow, as well as the baffle filter (also called effluent filter).
- FUNCTIONS OF THE SEPTIC BAFFLE Septic baffles are situated at the intersections where pipes enter and exit the tank to prevent clogging.
- In many cases, the outlet baffle is regarded as the most critical baffle, since it prevents particles from departing the tank and making their way to the leach field, where they might clog and effectively damage the leach field system.
- Unfortunately, this baffle is also the first to give way under its own weight.
- Its purpose is to aid in the smooth flow of wastewater into the tank while minimizing disturbance of the scum layer.
- MATERIALS FOR SEPTIC BAFFLE Several types of septic baffles are available, some of which are constructed of concrete and others, particularly newer variants, which are composed of plastic such as ABS.
- The exit baffle is frequently equipped with an effluent filter, which increases the effectiveness of the baffle in terms of keeping solids out of the leach field.
- The effluent filter will need to be updated on a regular basis after that, but this is a small price to pay for avoiding having to redo your leach field as a result.
- Once a year, or whenever your tank is drained out, you should have the concrete baffles evaluated for structural integrity.
- Among the other baffle issues include blocked outlet baffles or outlet baffle filters, leaks at the baffle-to-tank connection, and inlet baffle obstructions, among other things.
- Baffle blockages can also arise as a result of tree roots entering the system through the input pipe or around the baffle.
Call Pete’s Outflow Technicians for any baffle repairs or replacements, filter installs, or baffle malfunction diagnosis. They have years of expertise in the field. In addition to septic repairs, pumping, and other upkeep, we can provide septic inspections when purchasing or selling a home.
Septic tank outlet pipe
I have a 30-year-old house with a single chamber 1000-gallon concrete septic tank and a traditional leach field that is in need of repair. We had the tank pumped when we purchased the property in 1990, but I let it sit for 7 or 8 years before pumping it again, which resulted in the need to rebuild the leach field. Maybe it was ready to go after 20+ years, or maybe I should have pumped it sooner.whatever the case, I’m currently in the middle of a three-year pumping cycle and consider it inexpensive insurance.
- $$$$$ So I had the tank drained two weeks ago, and the septic technician determined that the water level was too high.only 2′′-3′′ below the top of the tank.
- It just so happened that I happened to be standing nearby when the excavator placed the outlet pipe.
- So I took the shovel out and dug up the pipe, cutting approximately 1.5 inches off the end.
- I’m optimistic that the level issue has been rectified, though I’ll double-check it before burying the cleanout cover in the ground.
- I’ve seen from reading previous posts that one approach is to connect the pipe with a ‘T’ at the other end.
- 8.5 inches in from the outside of the tank is where the baffle is located (BTW, I’ve already filled the 3′ deep hole surrounding the pipe).
- If we assume that there is just enough area for a ‘T,’ the only way to install it that I can see is through an inspection port.assuming that there is one.
- Is it possible, however, that there is a 6′′ inspection hole that I may use to go through?
- Should I simply accept the situation as it is and allow the baffle to do its job?
Signs of Septic System Failure
- Flooding is occurring in the home as a result of backed up water and sewage from toilets, drains, and sinks Bathtubs, showers, and sinks all drain at a snail’s pace
- The plumbing system is making gurgling sounds. The presence of standing water or moist patches near the septic tank or drainfield
- Noxious smells emanating from the septic tank or drainfield
- Even in the midst of a drought, bright green, spongy luxuriant grass should cover the septic tank or drainfield. Algal blooms in the vicinity of ponds or lakes In certain water wells, there are high quantities of nitrates or coliform bacteria.
Septic systems, like the majority of other components of your house, require regular maintenance. As long as it is properly maintained, the septic system should give years of dependable service. If the septic system is not properly maintained, owners face the risk of having a dangerous and expensive failure on their hands. Septic systems, on the other hand, have a limited operating lifespan and will ultimately need to be replaced. Septic systems that have failed or are not working properly pose a threat to human and animal health and can damage the environment.
It is possible that a prompt response will save the property owner money in repair costs, as well as disease and bad influence on the environment in the future.
What happens when a septic system fails?
When a septic system fails, untreated sewage is dumped into the environment and carried to places where it shouldn’t be. This may cause sewage to rise to the surface of the ground around the tank or drainfield, or it may cause sewage to back up in the pipes of the structure. It is also possible that sewage will make its way into groundwater, surface water, or marine water without our knowledge. Pathogens and other potentially harmful substances are carried by the sewage. People and animals can become ill as a result of exposure to certain diseases and pollutants.
What are some common reasons a septic system doesn’t work properly?
The pipe between the home to the tank is obstructed. When this occurs, drains drain very slowly (perhaps much more slowly on lower floors of the structure) or cease draining entirely, depending on the situation. This is frequently a straightforward issue to resolve. The majority of the time, a service provider can “snake the line” and unclog the problem. Keeping your drains clear by flushing only human waste and toilet paper down the drain and having your system examined on an annual basis will help prevent clogs.
- Plant roots might occasionally obstruct the pipe (particularly on older systems).
- The inlet baffle to the tank is obstructed.
- In case you have access to your intake baffle aperture, you may see if there is a blockage by inspecting it.
- It is essential that you avoid damaging any of the septic system’s components.
- Avoid clogging your inlet baffle by just flushing human waste and toilet paper, and get your system examined once a year to ensure that it is in good working order.
- This may result in sewage backing up into the residence or surfacing near the septic tank as a result of the situation.
- If there is an effluent filter, it has to be cleaned or changed as necessary.
Preventing this sort of problem from occurring is as simple as cleaning your effluent filter (if you have one) and getting your system examined once per year.
It is possible for sewage to back up into the residence when the drainfield collapses or becomes saturated with water.
Additionally, smells may be present around the tank or drainfield.
It is possible that the system was run incorrectly, resulting in an excessive amount of solid material making its way to the drainfield and causing it to fail prematurely.
While it is conceivable that a drainfield will get saturated due to excessive quantities of water (either from enormous volumes of water flowing down the drain or flooding the drainfield), it is not always viable to dry out and restore a drainfield.
A connection to the public sewer system should be explored if the drainfield has failed and it is possible to make the connection.
It will be necessary to replace the existing drainfield if this does not take place. It is possible for a septic system to fail or malfunction for various reasons. Septic professionals should be contacted if your system isn’t functioning correctly.
How can I prevent a failure?
The proper operation of your septic system, together with routine maintenance, can help it last a long and trouble-free life. Assuming that your septic system has been correctly planned, located, and installed, the rest is up to you to take care of. Inspect your system once a year and pump as necessary (usually every 3-5 years). Avoid overusing water, and be mindful of what you flush down the toilet and what you flush down the drain. Learn more about how to properly maintain your septic system.
Can my failing septic system contaminate the water?
Yes, a failed septic system has the potential to pollute well water as well as adjacent water sources. Untreated wastewater is a health problem that has the potential to cause a variety of human ailments. Once this untreated wastewater enters the groundwater, it has the potential to poison your well and the wells of your neighbors. It is possible that oyster beds and recreational swimming sites will be affected if the sewage reaches local streams or water bodies.
Is there financial help for failing systems or repairs?
Yes, there are instances where this is true. Here are a few such alternatives.
- In addition, Craft3 is a local nonprofit financial organization that provides loans in many counties. Municipal Health Departments- Some local health departments provide low-interest loan and grant programs to qualified applicants. A federal home repair program for people who qualify is offered by the USDA.
More Resources
- Septic System 101: The Fundamentals of Septic Systems
- Taking Good Care of Your Septic System
- A video on how to inspect your septic system yourself
- Using the Services of a Septic System Professional
- Safety of the Septic Tank Lid
Section 905
TITLE 77:PUBLIC HEALTHCHAPTER I:DEPARTMENT OF PUBLIC HEALTH SUBCHAPTER r:WATER AND SEWAGE TITLE 77:PUBLIC HEALTH Part 905: Private Sewage Disposal Codes Section 905.40: Septic Tanks PART 905: Private Sewage Disposal Codes The approval of a septic tank is covered by Section 905.40 Septic Tanksa). Manufacturers of prefabricated septic tanks are required to submit to the Department for approval a set of plans for each size and configuration of septic tank that they produce. Plans must be drawn to scale and must include all dimensions, baffles, tees, cleanouts, and material specifications, among other information.
In order to identify each manufacturer and series of approved septic tanks, the Department will assign an approval number to each manufacturer and will keep a list of the authorized manufacturers and approved septic tank series.
The tank shall be marked with the manufacturer’s approval number and the liquid capacity of the tank, in gallons, which shall be prominently displayed on the outside end wall of the tank above, or next to, the outlet pipe so that this information is readily visible after installation and before covering the tank with a cover.
3) All persons who manufacture, sell, offer for sale, or deliver septic tanks or aerobic treatment plants in or into the State of Illinois are required to keep a record of the following information about each septic tank or aerobic treatment plant sold or delivered: manufacturer, date of manufacture, date of sale, date of offer for sale, date of delivery.
A) The name of the purchaser or the property owner (if different); B) The location of delivery (county and address, legal description, or driving directions); C) The date of the sale and delivery; and D) The size of the septic tank or the model of the aerobic unit.
It is necessary to design and construct septic tanks in accordance with the following standards: 1) A septic tank must be watertight and constructed of sound and durable materials that are not subject to excessive corrosion, decay, frost damage, or cracking as a result of settling or backfilling.
2) Engineering Specifications (also known as technical specifications).
B) The tank must be able to support a top-dead load of not less than 500 pounds per square foot (psi).
To certify to the Department that the tank is designed and constructed in accordance with the requirements of this Part, the manufacturer, design engineer, or structural engineer must submit a written certification to the Department.
3) Substances (materials).
B) Precast reinforced concrete (also known as precast concrete).
D) Reinforced plastic is another option.
F)�������� Thermoplastic.
� The minimum liquid depth of the tank shall be 42 inches, and the maximum liquid depth shall be 72 inches.
B)������� The inlet and outlet openings of the septic tank shall be provided with cast-in watertight openings.
� Septic tank baffles shall meet the following requirements: A)������� Inlet baffles shall be provided and shall extend at least 6 inches below the surface of the liquid.
C)������� Inlet and outlet baffles shall have a clearance of at least one inch but not greater than 3 inches of free space between the underside of the tank lid and the baffles.
E)������� Outlet baffles shall be located no farther than 6 inches from the outlet end wall.
G)������� The sides of “V” or semi-circular type baffles shall fit tightly against the end wall of the tank.
I)�������� Submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees may be used at the inlets and outlets in lieu of baffles, provided that all of the above-stated distances and depths are maintained.
� Outlet baffles shall be 4 inches in diameter.
L)������� When submerged pipe T-branches or sanitary tees are used as baffles, it shall be the responsibility of the septic tank manufacturer to assure proper location of components during initial installation.
� This baffle shall be constructed of a durable material not subject to corrosion or decay.
The septic tank filter baffle shall be installed so that it is extended or suspended to a depth equal to 40 percent of the liquid level of the tank.
7)�������� Access.
� The manhole or access opening shall have a fitted lid with a minimum dimension of 12 inches (width or diameter).� Risers shall be watertight and constructed of a durable material.
� The joint between the septic tank and the risers shall be watertight.
c)�������� Capacity 1)�������� Septic tanks for individual residences shall be sized in accordance with Appendix A,� Illustration F.
2)�������� The volume below the liquid level for flows up to 500 gallons per day shall be at least 750 gallons.
�� When the total flow exceeds 1,350 gallons per day, 2 or more tanks in series, or a multi-compartment tank, shall be installed.
� When multiple compartment septic tanks or multiple septic tanks in series are used, the capacity of the first compartment or tank shall be � to ⅔ of the total required capacity.
2)�������� The wall separating the compartments shall extend to within 3 inches of the tank lid and shall have a free vent area equal to the cross-sectional area of the house sewer.
4)�������� The depth to the invert of the opening between compartments shall be 40 percent of the liquid depth.
� This baffle shall be constructed of a durable material that is not subject to corrosion or decay.
The septic tank filter baffle shall be installed so that it is extended or suspended to a depth equal to 40 percent of the liquid level of the tank.
6)�������� For a 2-compartment tank, openings with a minimum dimension of 18 inches shall be located over the inlet and outlet of the tank or 12-inch openings as follows: A)������� One located over the inlet;B)������� One over the outlet; andC)������� One centered over the compartment wall.
� Level shall mean plus or minus � inch in any direction (length or width or diameter of the tank) (length or width or diameter of the tank).
3)�������� There shall be no connections, such as joints, splices or fittings, within the area of overdig around the septic tank.
� Septic tanks, cesspools, pit privies, aerobic treatment plants and seepage pits that are no longer in use shall be completely pumped.
The floor and walls shall be cracked or crumbled so that the tank will not hold water, and the tank shall be filled with sand or soil. If the tank is removed from the ground, the excavation shall be filled with soil. (Source:� Amended at 37 Ill. Reg. 14994, effective August 28, 2013)
