How To Break The Seal On A Concreate Septic Tank Lid? (Perfect answer)

  • Position a pry bar between the top of the septic tank and the lid. Ask your helper to hold the handle on top of the lid. Push down on the pry bar to lift up one end of the concrete septic tank lid. Ask your helper to pull the lid handle and slide the lid to the side.

Should a septic tank lid be sealed?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

Are septic tank lids concrete?

Your septic system uses a concrete lid to prevent odors and sewage from seeping into the ground. The lid requires removal every five years to have the septic system pumped out and the tank cleaned. Many septic tanks have risers so the lid is visible above ground. Others are unseen as they are under the ground surface.

How do you lift a concrete septic tank?

There is a pry bar between the lid and the top of the tank. The handle should be held on top of the lid by your helpers. Push down on the pry bar to open the concrete lid.

How do you secure a septic tank lid?

Keep the lids secure by repairing or replacing all damaged or missing parts. Use bolts, screws, or other locks to secure the lids and prevent easy access. Never drive or park vehicles on top of septic systems – it can damage or dislodge the cover.

Do septic tanks need to be airtight?

Septic tanks need to be watertight. The riser should be sealed to the top of the tank and the riser cover should be sealed to the riser with butyl rubber or some other flexible sealant. No liquid should enter or leave the tank.

How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?

Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.

How thick is a septic tank lid?

The exterior walls of the septic tank are made of concrete, normally 4 inches thick. The concrete is either a minimum of 4,000 or 5,000 PSI concrete.

How many lids are on a septic tank?

In order to make repairs or perform regular maintenance or cleaning/pumping of the tank, access must be provided. There are usually two lids located at the top of the septic tank-one located over the inlet “T” and one located over the outlet “T” (see “Septic Components: Septic Tanks”).

How do you crush an old septic tank?

Usually an old septic tank is broken up in-place using a backhoe. The backhoe operator may pull in the tank sides, crush them, and push the whole steel tank to the bottom then back-fill with soil and rubble. In a DIY project we might use a heavy steel wrecking bar to just punch holes in the old steel tank bottom.

Should old septic tanks be removed?

Septic tanks are decommissioned for safety reasons. If a tank is not going to be used any longer, the best decision is to render it inoperable. Tanks that were well constructed, as well as those that are surrounded by excellent soil for the drain field, can have a lifespan of 50 years.

Can you sell a house with an old septic tank?

If you’re selling a property with a septic tank, then you must be transparent with buyers about the fact the property uses a one and provide a detailed specification of the system. In fact, You are required by law to inform a buyer in writing about the presence of a septic tank.

Septic tank lid seal

On the ground level, I have a septic tank with circular concrete lids that is supported by a concrete riser. In part due to the rough and uneven nature of the concrete, the lids do not seal very effectively. Because of the environment and other factors, there may be some foul smells in the region. What is the typical method of creating a seal for such things? There are gaskets that are utilized, aren’t there? One hundred kg of plumber’s putty? Is there anything else? Hopefully, they are constructed well enough that they will just seat comfortably on their own.

If you are unable to cover them with ground (after covering them with plastic to avoid dirt entry), I would make a very thin paste of cement such that it would not have much adhesive power and apply it an inch around the lip of the container before placing the lid on top.

Pour in a gallon of bleach; it will eliminate the majority of the odor!

Heavy plastic should be used to protect it.

  • The result is that you now have a surface that matches your lid while still being able to remove it without difficulty.
  • Heavy-duty plastic should be used to protect the surface from damage.
  • The result is that you now have a surface that matches your lid while still being able to remove it without too much difficulty.
  • Taking the lid off, spreading a handful of sand over the top of the rim, and replacing the lid is simple.
  • The presence of sand in a tank is considered bad practice (sewage truck drivers dislike it since it cannot be swept up).
  • As the top is being secured in place, a small amount of material may fall into the tank, but I don’t believe this will cause any harm to anything.
  • This is only a thought.
  • Water, however, is not flowing from the new outlet.
  • The outflow must be located lower than the intake.
  • [email protected] made a public announcement on our behalf.

How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid

Septic systems employ a concrete cap to limit the infiltration of smells and sewage into the surrounding soil. Every five years, the lid must be removed in order for the septic system to be emptied out and the tank to be cleaned. When concrete septic tank covers become cracked or damaged in any way, they must be replaced immediately. Purchases of this nature can be made online or at a home improvement store in your area. Many septic tanks are equipped with risers, which allow the lid to be seen above ground.

Make arrangements with the utility companies to come out and mark the position of electricity and water lines before beginning work on a concrete septic lid replacement.

This stops people from cutting into utility wires, which might result in injury or other difficulties. How to Replace a Concrete Septic Lid (with Pictures) Image courtesy of creatingmore/E+/GettyImages.com

Dig Down to the Septic Lid

To keep smells and sewage from leaking into the ground, your sewer system is equipped with a concrete cover. A septic system pump-out and tank cleaning are required every five years, which necessitates the removal of the tank lid. Whenever there is cracking or other damage to concrete septic tank covers, it is necessary to repair them. Purchases of this nature can be made online or at a home improvement store in your neighborhood. Many septic tanks are constructed with risers, which allow the lid to be seen above ground.

Make arrangements with the utility companies to come out and identify the locations of electricity and water lines before beginning work on a concrete septic lid replacement.

Instructions for Replacing a Concrete Septic Lid Image courtesy of creatingmore/E+/GettyImages.com.

Lift Off the Lid

The concrete cover on your septic system keeps smells and sewage from leaking into the earth. Every five years, the lid must be removed in order to have the septic system emptied out and the tank cleaned. When concrete septic tank covers acquire cracks or other deterioration, they must be replaced. These may be acquired either online or at a local home improvement store. Many septic tanks are built with risers, which allow the lid to be seen above ground. Others are not visible because they lie beneath the surface of the ground.

This stops people from cutting into utility wires, which might result in damage or other difficulties.

Measure the Lid

Using a tape measure, measure the length and breadth of the aperture to your septic tank chamber. Purchase a replacement sewer cover from Home Depot or another supplier depending on the measurements you’ve taken thus far. The old lid should be placed back on top of the septic tank, or the tank entrance should be covered with a tarp if it will be several days until your new lid comes.

Clean the Seal

Using a putty knife, scrape away any remaining old seal from the top of the septic tank if necessary. The majority of the seal will fall out in large chunks. With a wire brush, clean the top of the tank entrance to remove any remaining traces of the seal as well as any loose concrete.

Install the New Lid

One end of the new septic tank lid should be lifted while the other end is lifted by your assistant. Lower the concrete lid over the septic tank with care, ensuring that the seal between the tank and the lid is compressed. If you have to dig to get to the septic tank, you should cover it with the earth.

Septic Seal

Over 680,000 strictly plumbing related postsWelcome to Plbg.com the PlumbingForum.com. We are the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice, help, dyi, educational, and informational plumbing forum. Questions and discussions about toilets, sinks, faucets, drainage, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, water quality, and other exclusively PLUMBING related issues.Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, pricing, where to purchase a product, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing.Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups. We do not sell your information. We are made possible by:
Septic Seal
Author:Anonymous UserI was reading a previous link that was stating that septic tanks are not “sealed” because of the gases that need to be vented out of the tank.My tank is within 10 feet of my house and I have a smells emitting from the tank whenever there is a heavy load on the system, showeres, laundry, etc.I want to seal off the lid to the tank with some sort of rubber sleave to eliminate the smell.Is this going to interfere with the flow of waste going into the tank.I cannot think of any other way to do this so I am open to suggestions.Thanks for the help.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Dunbar (KY)Seems extremely close to the home but it is quite common especially if the grade sharply rolls from the home.There are some advisors on here that know this subject very well.The smell is not exactly harmless and if my home was like this I would uncover the earth that covers this and cover top with a rubber like covering that would trap this problem and recover.But I would also make sure that there was a cleanout going in and out of tank with a hole drilled in caps of cleanout to allow some air movement.Talking as if I was DIY because I am a inside plumber and when it comes to septic tanks my experience is limited which this forum and it’s advisors has given out some great knowledge about this topic.When it comes to drain cleaning, I try to sometimes enter through the pipe that exits into tank to get at better distance if my only option otherwise is to pull a toilet. Which means more $$$ for the customer to clear a main line.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Anonymous UserDunber Plumber:I was even thinking of just running a bead of “Great Stuff” around the perimeter of the lid.New septic system so I am hoping that I am not going to have to access it and pump it out for a number of years.Since it is only a couple feet below grade its not that difficult to obtain access. -Thanks for your response.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Mike BOh, that seems like such a good idea!Let’s see – you will seal the septic tank so that decomposition gases are unable to vent out of the tank.You would rather have the accumulating gases build pressure within the tank.I wonder how much pressure it will take toovercome the liquid seals on all of your sewage lines within the house.Oh, just 4-inches of water column, you say?So, you would rather have sewer gases venting into your house – – now, I understand._How long has it been since you pumpedyour septic tank?
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Anonymous UserAs I mentioned it is a new septic system.All of my fixtures are vented through the roof by 4″ vent pipe.Wont the air/gases in the septic tank be vented through the roof as well? All I am looking to do is eliminate the odor from the gases emitting from my septic tank.The tank is a precast concrete tank.The way it was poured the lid sits cockeyed, therefore allowing the gases to seap up through the ground.Originally I was thinking of a rubber seal or great stuff, which you quickly shot down. If you can offer a remedy to the situation I would be happy to hear it.Thanks for the response.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)Sullivan, typically septic tank systems are designed to allow the gasses produced by microbial digestion to be vented through the house plumbing vent system.The top of the vent pipes, which protrude through the roof, release the odorous gasses at an elevation high enough so that they cannot be detected in the yard or in the house.If downdrafts carry the odorous gasses down into the yard, or into open windows in the house, then the vents can be fitted with Activated Carbon Roof Vent Filters.Do not drill ventilation holes in the septic tank lid, nor the cleanout riser plugs. All of the septic tank gasses must be vented to the roof vents.I recommend that 20-inch plastic risers be installed over the inlet manhole, and the outlet manhole of the septic tank. The covers of the risers should be at the final grade elevation to allow easy access to the tank.Let’s face it, if you must excavate the soil over the septic tank manhole with a shovel, chances are that this chore will be avoided.I use Tuf-Tite brand risers with gasketed lids, and stainless steel screws with which to secure the lids.The sludge, which accumulates in a septic tank, should be removed on an as-needed basis, rather than on some arbitrary interval of time. I recommend the 1/3 RULE. When the sludge depth in the primary compartment is 1/3 the total liquid depth of the tank, it should be removed. Sludge accumulation reduces the hydraulic detention time of the sewage in the tank. The sewage passes through the tank at a higher velocity as the sludge layer increases in depth. The increase in flow velocity reduces the time period that the microbes have to digest the organic matter in the sewage. Undigested organic matter is carried out to the leach field causing organic overloading, and a rapid increase in the clogging mat, which is formed on the surface of the soil below the leach field. The thickness of the clogging mat is what controls the percolation rate of the effluent into the soil. Ultimately, when the application rate of the effluent in the leach field exceeds the percolation rate through the clogging mat, the effluent either surfaces or backs-up into the septic tank, and possibly, backs-up into the house. The sludge depth can be measured with a device called the ‘Sludge Judge’. Measure the sludge depth annually, on the 4th of July, SEWAGE INDEPENDENCE DAY. Celebrate your independence of the sewer grid, but remember that with this independence comes the responsibility of a septic system operator. Check out the Sludge Judge at:I also recommend that the outlet tee of the tank be fitted with a septic tank effluent filter. The brand that I use is manufactured by the Tuf-Tite company, although there are several other high quality filters on the market. The filter will reduce the organic matter in the effluent from flowing into the leach field.Clean the filter annually, on SEWAGE INDEPENDENCE DAY, by simply lifting the filter to the top of the outlet tee, and rinsing the organic matter and biological slime from the surface of the filter with the strong stream of a hose.Wash the debris back into the tank.The final chore to be performed on SEWAGE INDEPENDENCE DAY is to record an account of the maintenance performed on the system in a maintenance log. I prepare a SEWERS CAN BE BEAUTIFUL operation manual for each of the septic systems that I install for my clients. The manual contains a description of the system design, photos of the system components, an as-built plan, a description of the required maintenance procedures, a copy of the permit, and the maintenance log. The manual becomes an excellent sales tool when the time comes to sell the home. The manual answers all questions a potential buyer may have regarding the performance of the septic system, and will allay the fears typically encountered when purchasing a home served by a septic system.Maintenance is the key to successful septic systems. However, if the required maintenance is difficult, or impossible, then chances are it will not be performed. If you would like photos of my typical standard system, send me your e-mail address. My address [email protected] Aldrich (Septic Tank Yank)Septic System ConsultantTimnath, Colorado
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Septic Tank Yank (CO)Sullivan, excavate the soil from the entire lid of the septic tank, and caulk all areas where the gasses can escape.I use 100% silicone seal to seal the risers to the septic tank.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:hj (AZ)The previous answer was wrong. Septic tanks are vented out the roof the same as city sewers. And since most septic tanks are buried under a couple of feet of dirt, I assume that would seal them fairly adequately.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:hj (AZ)The tank is vented by the house roof vents. Pressue cannot build up against the trap seals because of the house vents. Unless the sewer system has a leak, which would be a different problem, the sewer/septic gases cannot enter the house. That is why we install traps on all the fixtures, to keep that from happening.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:hj (AZ)All the tanks I have ever used had the cover sealed to the tank and installed properly. If yours is loose or cockeyed, you may need to have the installer come back and pick up the lid, install a caulk or mortar, and then put it back down with the proper orientation.The three openings on the top of the tank should have been sealed with mortar or cement.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:hj (AZ)One other thing, if odor can escape from the tank, then dirt can also wash into it and fill the tank. Your installation should never have been approved and you might have that checked.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:Mike BI looked it up – you are right! The septic tanks are suppose to vent back through the roof via the inlet line.I guess that I’ve seen so many septic systems where the inlet lines were coveredwith liquid that I didn’t realize how they were suppose to function.Thanks for enlightening us.
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:smallville (FL)John,I tried twice to send you an email but it was kicked back both times. I have some questions and would like the pics of your system.Please hit me [email protected].
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Re: Septic Seal
Author:bluebirdbiker (NY)Deleted.Edited 1 times.
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Can’t remove septic tank lid

Over 680,000 strictly plumbing related postsWelcome to Plbg.com the PlumbingForum.com. We are the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice, help, dyi, educational, and informational plumbing forum. Questions and discussions about toilets, sinks, faucets, drainage, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, water quality, and other exclusively PLUMBING related issues.Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, pricing, where to purchase a product, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing.Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups. We do not sell your information. We are made possible by:
Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Hi, first post here. This issue may have come up before but I wasn’t able to find it using the Search feature.I’ve got a two-chamber concrete septic tank. The previous owners used to pump out the tank by removing only the lid on the inlet-side chamber. Now the concrete lid on the outlet-side chamber can’t be removed. The septic serviceman said that it hadn’t been removed in so long, the concrete had “re-set”. The way he explained it, irrigation and rain water soak through the soil, then get into the concrete, and over time form a bond. He also said that you can’t pump/clean/inspect the tank properly without removing that lid. Naturally, I called up the previous owner, but he had a different story. I wanted to get some impartial advice to find out who was right, so here goes:1. The previous owner didn’t think it was necessary to remove the outlet-side cover. He said the septic pumping company was able to put their hose in over the baffle and pump out the outlet-side chamber. I’m no expert but I don’t see how that’s possible, given the size and flexibility of the hose, and the extremely limited visibility with the hose in the hole. Is it possible to properly pump out the tank removing only the inlet-side lid? If so, how?2. If the answer to the first question is that you truly need to remove the outlet-side lid, what is the best way to solve the problem of the “re-set” concrete in the lid? The tank is located close to my house, beneath a lawn with sprinkler lines (both water and electrical) cleverly running right over the tank. Not the best choice on the part of the installer but naturally I want to minimize the excavation in that area.In case the options are specific to location, I’m located in Northern Colorado.Thanks!
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)what are you using to lift the lid? I have never had a problem even when the lid was set with mortar.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)The lid has what looks like a curved piece of re-bar set into it. The septic service guy was prying up on that with something, I didn’t see exactly what he was doing. Then he took a digging bar and started chipping away little pieces at the seam between the tank top and the lid, then tried prying up in that little space. After doing that unsuccessfully he said the concrete had “re-set”.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:mm (MD)Fasten a chain to the lid handle and then wrap and tie it off around a digging bar that is held horizontally 2-3 feet above the tank.Have someone (a helper?) apply upward leverage on the bar against the ground while you take a second digging bar and, using the hammer end, gently but firmly pound on the outer edge of the concrete lid.It will come up.The lids are often set in tar to seal them against water seepage into the tank so they are tight, but it will release.Edited 1 times.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Thanks, m m. Now that you mention that, I remember the septic service guy talking about that briefly, and also a variation using a jack to apply the force. He said he thought since it had been so long since it was last removed, the re-bar would break out of the concrete before the lid came up. I know that the previous owner had not removed it since 1995. Don’t know about the owner before that, but he might not have taken it off since it was installed in 1978!There was no tar or tar paper visible in the chipped-away sections. some sort of barrier seems like an obvious step for anyone who installs these things for a living, but it looks like it was omitted in this case.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)I usually call a tow truck and use his hook in that rebar.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)A couple of log splitting wedges between the lid and the tank will also help.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:mm (MD)”A couple of log splitting wedges between the lid and the tank will also help”.About all they’ll help in doing is to obliterate the lid.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)The lid is about 8″ thick, it is not going to be “obliterated” unless it is completely deteriorated.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Thanks for all the replies so far, about how to free up the stuck lid.Anyone for the first question? Is it possible to properly pump out the tank removing only the inlet-side lid? If so, how?Thank you.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:Paul48 (CT)Logically.Why would they put 2 access holes if one was enough?
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)It appears that there are NO access holes just two halves of the lid. The center baffle doesn’t comeup the bottom of the lid so they just stick the hose into the other side.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Re: It appears that there are NO access holes just two halves of the lid. The center baffle doesn’t come up the bottom of the lid so they just stick the hose into the other side.-Perhaps I’ve been using the wrong terminology. What I meant by “lid” was a roughly 18″x18″ opening in the top of the tank, i.e., the covering for the access hole.Re: Why would they put 2 access holes if one was enough?-The same track that my mind took. The question arose from the claim of the previous owner that one was sufficient, and that the hose could be put over the baffle into the outlet-side chamber. My skepticism comes from imagining a stiff 4″ hose maneuvering down a hole, over the baffle, and then into the other chamber. Two access holes would certainly make it more convenient. My question is, can it be done properly using only the one on the inlet-side?Thanks again for your time.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)18 x 18 ports are NOT the same as two tank halves. It would be difficult to put the hose across, IF you have a center baffle. In this case there may not be one and everything can be done from a single port.
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Procedure for Opening Septic Tanks

  • ASK a question or make a comment about how to open a septic tank safely and properly for inspection or cleaning.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Instructions on how to open the septic tank. The location of the septic tank cleanout or cover, as well as the access and opening processes. We discuss some of the things to look for before opening the septic tank, such as subsidence, indications of recent work, and septic tank coverings that are not suitable to use. Then we demonstrate how to remove the septic tank lid or the access port cover from the tank.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page. Use the SEARCH BOX to discover the information you’re looking for quickly.

Procedures for Safe Opening of a Septic Tank, Cesspool, or Drywall for Inspection or Cleaning

The following are the contents of the article:

  • How to remove the lid from a septic tank
  • When it comes to pumping out the septic tank, which septic tank entrance should be used? Why

In this septic tank pumpout article series, you’ll learn how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks, as well as how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks using photos. In addition to septic pumping tank truck operators, this guideline is meant to provide basic information to homeowners and septic service providers that are concerned about septic system maintenance.

  • There is a risk of dangerous, perhaps deadly collapse due to subsidence (depressions or low regions in the earth) near the location of the septic tank. Evidence of recent construction activity that may necessitate further investigation in order to determine the status of the septic system
  • Backup or effluent breakout at the surface of the ground in the septic tank region.
  • Here is an example of a septic tank cover that was discovered atop an unstable home-made collection of concrete blocks that had been piled by the owner to serve as an access well to his septic tank. Because the masonry blocks were misaligned and loose, and because the tank aperture into which the cover opened was bigger than the cover, there was a serious collapse risk that may have resulted in a deadly hazard. We covered the area with plywood and roped it off, and we quickly informed the residents and the property owner of the situation, both verbally and in writing

Procedure for Opening the Septic Tank Pumping Access Port

It is necessary to clean the septic tank using a cleanout port, which is normally positioned in the center of the tank. A small access opening, such as one over an intake or outlet baffle, does not provide enough space for adequate sludge removal from the septic tank bottom, and it increases the likelihood of future clogging of the tank’s inlet or outlet due to partially removed floating scum that has not been completely removed from the tank bottom. In this particular scenario, we already had the measurements to the exact placement of the septic tank cleanout cover due to previous work.

A wrecking bar is set to be used to remove the cover from the vehicle.

Reader CommentsQ A

@Ron, In order for a concrete septic tank lid to be correctly erected, it must feature both access openings and cast in iron loops to which a hoist may be attached. Alternatively, if your septic tank cover does not have those points of purchase for lifting, you will require a flat bar and a larger wrecking bar to pry up the excavated lid from the septic tank sufficiently to allow you to put a chain around the lid, most likely two Chainz, and lift the lid with a hoist and tripod mechanism or you will use an on-site motorized hoist.

  1. 1/2 x 27/4 removing the top of a septic tank @Phil, Although what you describe is theoretically doable, it may be less expensive and more rational to do so in a different way.
  2. This is due to the fact that just stitching a circular hole does not ensure that I am creating a hole through which the lid will not be dropped.
  3. Edge My concrete septic tank, which was constructed when the home was built in 1979 and does not have any manholes or openings for pumping out, is in poor condition.
  4. Is it feasible to cut two manholes using a concrete saw that are 20″/24″ in diameter and then build risers and a cover on top of them?
  5. Could you please share a picture of the tank top?
  6. It is common for the concrete top to be tapered; nevertheless, it may just be trapped by effloresent salts and filth.
  7. I have a feeling that simply tugging will not be effective.

This would have stopped leaks but would have made it extremely difficult to open the tank for the next person who needed to open the tank.

Repeat this process many times all around the cover’s perimeter.

For me, this has worked almost every time in the past.

It is recommended that you build a septic tank riser that is sealed to the tank top, as well as a new secure cover on top of the riser if your septic tank lid is not near to the ground level.

Never work on your own.

I’ve erected two wood 4x4s on top of the lifting ring to provide additional support.

All I’ve done three times is shattered those 4x4s.

Do you have any recommendations?

A septic tank pumping provider can remove plastic bags, tiny pebbles, and other debris from your tank, as well as the sediments, scum, and sludge that has accumulated there.

What is the best way to get them out?

When the septic tank is drained out, would it make sense to place a plastic bag over the top hole of the tank to keep the odors contained?

Gerard A plastic bag as a sewer line cap doesn’t seem right to me – it’s not durable, it’s the incorrect material if a cover is required, and if it’s a vent rather than an access pipe, the vent must be open to the atmosphere and protected from animal intrusion.

What is the function of this item?

A typical septic tank is equipped with clean out access covers that are strategically placed.

Maybe something as basic as a flat piece of concrete or stone will be sufficient, or maybe something more complex.

To be quite honest, I would have expected the contractor who dug the hole to be accountable for ensuring that the system was repaired and safe.

What should I do to solve it?

What store would I go to in order to acquire septic tank covers?

A few years ago, I had a beautiful new house built for me.

I have three plastic polylok lids, one of which is above ground and is for the pump.

I’d like to purchase risers so that I may build all three at a depth of around 6 inches below ground level.

What are the advantages and disadvantages.

Do you have any other suggestions?

I apologize for the lengthy post.

Sorry, but “True Bolt” isn’t a phrase I’m familiar with or associate with septic tank lids in any way.

Although this is not always the case, Mary, as the pumper may be able to access the entire tank bottom from a single opening depending on the tank’s size and shape; however, if your pumper is unable to do so from a single opening, you may want both openings opened to inspect the condition of the tank baffles.

There are two holes in my septic tank. Is it necessary to open both doors for a pump out?

Question:cannot find the manhole cover of the septic tank

(8th of August, 2014) “We’ve located the cesspool concrete lid (about 12 foot diameter), but after digging a 2 foot perimeter, we were unable to locate the manhole cover, which was required for an inspection.” vicki levin stated Help? My husband is becoming increasingly upset with the digging!

Reply:

If it’s a cesspool, rather than a septic tank, and it’s spherical, the access lid is normally located in the center of the container.

Question: how do i remove septic tank lid that is stuck

The entrance lid would normally be in the center of the cesspool, if it is in fact a cesspool rather than a septic tank, and it is spherical.

Reply:

Anon:WARNING: If the septic tank cover, lid, or access aperture has partially caved in or sank into the tank, the condition is extremely dangerous – an unsecure cover implies that someone might fall into the tank, which is generally lethal very quickly. Please keep everyone away from the septic tank area until such time as you have had the tank inspected and opened for additional inspection by a professional. Depending on the tank type and condition, lifting the lid may necessitate the use of a pry bar or wrecking bar, as well as a small portable winch (which is unusual).

Alternatively, consider the following:

Septic Pumping ProcedurePumper Truck Operation Articles

  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION
  • MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • HOW TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN NOT TO PUMP A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO FIND A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK
  • INSPECT THE SEPTIC TANK BEFORE PUMPING
  • SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE
  • SEPTIC TANK LEVELS OF SEWAGE
  • PUMPER TRU

Suggested citation for this web page

HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK at Inspect a Tank An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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How to Remove Septic Tank Lid: The Ultimate Step-by-Step Guide!

Sewage tank maintenance is made easier by understanding how to remove a septic tank lid properly. Fortunately, the removal process is pretty basic and, in the majority of cases, does not necessitate the use of a professional’s assistance. This tutorial is meant to assist homeowners with removing the lid from their septic tank in a correct and safe manner. Let’s get this party started!

How to Remove Septic Tank Lid

Removing the cover of a septic tank is a pretty simple procedure. Because most septic tank lids do not come with a lock, they may be opened at any time with the proper tools and materials.

You’ll Need:

  • Screwdriver, shovel, pry bar, metal detector (optional), broom, and other tools

Step 1: Locate the Septic Tank

In most areas, septic tanks must be located at least 10 feet away from the house’s foundation in order to function properly. It is possible to monitor their whereabouts by tracing the path of the drain as it leaves the residence. It’s possible that you’ll need to call your local health department instead if you can’t follow it down through the drainage system. If they’ve given permits for the system, it’s probable that they have a record of the location of the septic tank. If they don’t, get in touch with a reputable septic system company and inquire as to where it could be hidden or hidden from view.

It is possible to locate the approximate position of the septic tank using a metal detector if the tank is buried underground.

As a result, a metal detector will undoubtedly assist you in your hunt. Once the gadget makes a beeping sound, insert the metal rod into the ground 12 to 14 inches deep. If it makes contact with something substantial, you’ve discovered your container.

Step 2: Dig Up the Lid

Septic tanks are often located beneath ground level. A covering of dirt or grass is frequently placed on top of them to prevent mishaps and odors from escaping because they require little care aside from the biannual or triennial pumping. Bring a shovel or other digging instrument with you to assist you in excavating the earth once you’ve discovered the tank. The lid should be perfectly flat on the tank, with the exception of a little seam around the edge. Prevent dirt from dropping and sliding down onto the lid by digging out at least 16 inches of earth on all sides and around the top of it.

Most tanks feature two or three lids, depending on their size.

Step 3: Remove the Lid

Due to the fact that septic tank lids are often built of concrete or steel, they are extremely tough to force apart and remove. The handles on some tank lids are built in, whilst others need the use of a pry bar to raise them open completely. If the lid has handles, enlist the help of a friend or family member to assist you in removing the lid from the container. If it doesn’t, put a screwdriver into the seam surrounding the lid and the pry bar into the space created by the screwdriver. Then press the button all the way down.

  • Use caution when doing so to avoid damaging the lid.
  • Keep in mind that septic tanks with concrete lids weigh significantly more than those with steel covers.
  • In such instances, it is preferable to employ a contractor to remove the lid on your behalf in order to avoid injuring the lid itself.
  • That’s all there is to it!
  • When the pumping or repairs are finished, replace the cover on the hole in the right manner.
  • Then you can either cover the lid with dirt or plant grass on top of it to finish it off.
  • You will avoid having to deal with the trouble of moving the tank’s cover in the future if you do this.

Septic Tank Lid Safety and Precautions

Approximately 80% of all septic tank accidents are the result of improperly shut lids. Unfortunately, not everyone who accidently falls in is able to walk away without injury. Prevent a catastrophe from occurring by taking some of the following precautions:

  • Check the condition of the tank’s lids on a regular basis. Bolts, screws, and other locks should be used to secure the lids to prevent unauthorized entry. It is never safe to leave an open lid alone, even while it is being pumped or fixed. After working on the septic system, always double-check that the tank lids are properly closed and secure. Educate young children on the importance of not opening or playing with septic tank covers. Understand the exact location of the septic tank lids on your property
  • Vehicles and heavy gear should never be driven or parked on top of septic systems, since this may cause the lid to become dislodged or damaged. Stay away from the septic tank’s entry since the gases might knock you out. If you’re near a septic tank, don’t burn a cigarette or do anything else that may cause a fire. Septic tanks emit methane gas, which is very flammable and explosive. Whenever you are excavating outside, keep an eye out for hidden mechanical or electrical wires. No matter how precious something may appear to be, it is never safe to remove anything from a tank. Instead, you should hire an expert to collect it on your behalf. If someone falls into the tank, do not go in after them unless you are equipped to do so safely and effectively. Please dial 911 as soon as possible, and make sure the individual does not drown by placing a floating device in the tank.

Final Thoughts

We hope this tutorial was useful in assisting you with the procedure of lifting the lid of your septic tank!

Allow us to conclude this piece with a final word of caution: until absolutely essential, leave the maintenance of your septic system to the experts. Open the lid only when you need to monitor the level of the tank’s liquids or gases. Wishing you the best of luck!

Septic Tank Lids

If you have ever had to hire someone to locate theSeptic Tank that was buried someplace in your East Bethel MN yard, then you should consider using Septic Tank Acess Risers as a primary benefit. Increased accessibility when it comes time to have the septic tank pumped out or inspected will result from raising the entry point to the surface of the ground. It has the potential to save a significant amount of time and money over time. CSICustom Septic Inc. prefers to install new septic tanks with the manhole cover at or near ground level, rather than above it.

10 Reasons to Install Septic Tank Riser With Lid

Typically, a Septic Tank Access Riser is built of either plastic or concrete. They typically measure between eight to twenty-four inches in circumference. When constructed properly, a riser and lid may give a variety of benefits that will most likely save you both time and money. Listed below are ten reasons why you should consider installing a Septic Tank Riser:

  1. Easy Septic System Maintenance
  2. Easy Access to the Pump Tank
  3. Convenience Counts for Something. Septic tank maintenance costs are reduced because surface water or runoff is prevented from entering the tank. Access to Septic Tank Inspections should be improved. Reduced amount of time spent locating an underground septic tank Installation is a one-time expense
  4. The cover provides a watertight seal
  5. The septic tank lid is securely attached
  6. And Landscaping Has the Potential to Improve Appearance

Replacing Cracked or Broken Tank Cover

When it comes to dealing with sewer, we place the highest premium on safety first. A septic tank cover that is broken or cracked might pose a safety hazard. Additionally, if water escapes into the tank, it might reduce the reliability of sewage treatment. Excessive volumes of water might cause the organic treatment process taking place inside the tank to become disrupted. As part of our Repair Service, CSI Custom Septic, Inc. will replace a cracked, broken, or missing septic tank cover. Contact us for more information.

MN Septic InspectionsRepairs

Don’t waste any more time or money trying to locate and dig up the Septic Tank Cover in your East Bethel, Minnesota yard. With the expertise of CSI Custom Septic, Inc., installing or replacing a septic tank manhole cover riser is simple and economical. Our professionals can assist you in selecting the most appropriate tank lid for your needs and in ensuring that it is properly installed. Septic System Inspections and Maintenance are made faster and easier with the use of convenient Extenders and Risers.

CSI Custom Septic, Inc.

Call (763) 218-4769 for more information.

How to Reduce Septic Tank Odor

Septic tanks that are properly maintained should be odor-free, therefore if you notice an unpleasant smell inside your house or outdoors near the leach field, this is a clue that there is a problem. A bad odor, on the other hand, does not always indicate that the septic tank needs to be flushed. Several gases, including carbon dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and methane, accumulate in the septic system and generate smells. Not only may they be irritating, but a high enough concentration of these gases can be poisonous or even explosive if present in sufficient quantities.

Septic Odors Inside the Home

A septic stench in your house is typically indicative of a plumbing problem, but not all plumbing problems necessitate the hiring of a plumber.

  • Because the floor drain trap in your basement may have dried out, septic tank gases may have been leaking back into the home and into your living space. Drain traps should be refilled with water on a regular basis to solve the problem. It is possible that the cleanout access plug, which is positioned within the drain, has become loose, enabling sewer gas to seep. Obtain the services of a qualified plumber to clean the pipe and inspect the clog. It is possible that the plumbing vent on the roof is clogged or obstructed. As wastewater passes through the drain pipes, the vent helps to equalize the pressure in the pipes. If your bathtub, sinks, and toilets are gurgling, this might be the source of the problem. If the vent has only recently become frozen shut, it will melt as the temperature rises in the room. If, on the other hand, leaves, a bird’s nest, or any other material is obstructing the vent, it will need to be cleaned out completely. Always use caution when climbing up to the roof to avoid falling off the edge. It is possible that the ejector sump pump basket is not securely sealed. To avoid additional leaks, inspect the lid and replace any damaged seals. If the stench is most evident in the bathroom, it may simply be the result of a dried out toilet wax seal. Simply remove the toilet and replace the wax ring with a new one. The toilet flange does not have to be elevated above the ceramic tile floor in order for two seals to be stacked on top of each other. A hole or leak in a plumbing junction, drain line, or under a sink is a less probable source of the problem.

Odor Near the Septic Tank Outside the Home

It’s usual to notice a faint odor near the septic tank every now and again, but a strong odor might indicate a leak from the manhole.

  • To make certain that the risers and manholes are securely covered, inspect them. In most cases, the tank manhole cover is made of concrete, but it may alternatively be made of metal or plastic as well. It is possible to have a septic tank manhole hidden under as much as a foot of dirt, except in the case of tanks equipped with sump pumps, which must be visible at ground level in order for the pump to be maintained or replaced. A rubber seal will be installed on the inside of a plastic manhole cover to keep smells contained within the tank. In addition, fasteners such as lag screws are used to secure the lid. It is possible to temporarily seal a concrete manhole lid with weather stripping to keep the smells contained until the tank can be restored. After the tank has been maintained, it will be necessary to replace the permanent seal.

Leach Field Odors

It is necessary to have a soil treatment area, also known as a leach field, in order to properly treat sewage. There should not be a strong sulfur smell in the soil treatment area unless there is an issue.

  • Make certain that your septic system pipes are not crushed or cracked by having them examined. A skilled plumber should inspect your pipes for roots that are growing into them and causing obstructions. Carry out a visual assessment of the leach field to search for patches of soggy or damp soil, which may indicate that sewage is rising to the surface of the earth. However, regardless of the reason, leaking sewage is regarded to be a serious hazard to the health of both animals and people, and as such, the problem should be addressed as soon as possible by an experienced plumber.

Odor in Other Areas Outside your Home

If you’re experiencing a general sewage or septic smell in your yard or outdoor spaces, it’s possible that the plumbing vent pipe isn’t long enough to completely diffuse the smells.

  • The plumbing vent pipe may not be long enough to completely distribute the scents if there is only a broad sewage or septic smell in your yard or outdoor spaces.

Odors Caused by Improper Tank Chemistry

Throughout the septic tank, bacteria are hard at work breaking down waste materials. The pH level must be kept between 6.8 and 7.6 in order for these bacteria to thrive and perform their functions. If the solution becomes too acidic, a strong hydrogen sulfide gas odor (similar to that of rotten eggs) might begin to emerge.

  • Never flush non-organic waste down the toilet, such as cigarette butts, feminine hygiene products, or trash
  • Instead, use the garbage disposal. Pouring fats, oils, coffee grinds, cleaning products, paints, or other chemicals down your sink or tub drains is not recommended. – These can interfere with the breakdown of sewage inside the tank, resulting in a bad odor. It is recommended that you add a cup of baking soda to a sink drain or toilet once a week to assist maintain the proper pH level in the septic tank

A professional plumbing business, such as Bailey Brothers, should clean out your septic tank every three to five years to maintain it odor-free and functioning correctly.

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