- Use a 4-inch pipe to connect the two septic tanks. Place this pipe into the inlet hole of your new septic tank before you lower it into the ground. After you’ve lowered your new septic tank, insert the other end of the pipe into your old septic tank’s outlet hole.
Can I add a bathroom to my septic system?
One of the foremost reasons for upgrading a septic tank is the addition of a bathroom, sometimes in a basement. This boosts property value and allows you to make better use of a your basement space. To safely treat the extra wastewater, you’ll need to connect it to your septic tank.
How do you tie into an existing septic tank?
How to Tie Into an Existing Septic Tank
- Locate the drain line running from the current home to the septic tank.
- Once you locate the drainpipe, continue digging until you have exposed approximately three feet of the pipe.
- Lay sections of four-inch PVC pipe from the new drain point to the existing drain line.
Is my septic big enough for another bathroom?
This is so because the addition of another bedroom usually includes another bathroom in many occasions which can cause a septic tank overflow if not properly accommodated for. A 900-gallon septic tank is sufficient enough for a two to three-bedroom home that does not exceed 2,250 square feet.
Do I need to upgrade my septic tank?
Under the new rules, if you have a specific septic tank that discharges to surface water (river, stream, ditch, etc.) you are required to upgrade or replace your septic tank treatment system to a full sewage treatment plant by 2020, or when you sell a property, if it’s prior to this date.
Can a septic tank have two inlets?
Are there two inlets for the septic tank? It should not change anything. Before you get to the tank, you have to connect the lines. It will work the same as if they were under the house.
How do you connect an existing waste pipe?
The most simple way to connect a waste pipe to an existing soil pipe is to install a ‘strap on boss’ (pictured at the top of the article) to make a watertight connection. Simply cut a hole in the soil pipe and place the strap around the exterior of the pipe.
Can you connect 2 toilets together?
Most houses have more than one toilet, and if they are on the same side of the house, their waste lines can usually tie into the same stack. If they are on opposite sides, however, each may need its own stack. Since the stacks must be vented, this would mean two vent openings on the roof.
Should drainage pipe be glued?
If you are trying to use PVC pipe to transport fluid or gas, PVC cement or special push-on fittings are necessary to assure there are no leaks. Not all applications require a permanent seal like this, however. Putting cement on all of these PVC joints could be time-consuming and messy.
What is no hub coupling?
Intended for use with DWV systems, no-hub couplings are used to join cast iron soil pipe that does not have the traditional Hub and Spigot. They are normally installed using a torque wrench. Generally, they have more clamps and provide a greater band load than standard no-hub couplings.
How do you find out how big your septic tank is?
One way to find out the size of your septic tank is through records kept from when the tank was installed. These records could be with the previous owner of your home. Another way to identify the tank size is to talk with the last company that serviced/pumped your tank.
How to Tie Into an Existing Septic Tank
Adding more input lines to your current septic tank is a viable option if your tank is working properly and is much below its maximum capacity for consumption. If you want to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. The difficulty of this work will be greatly influenced by the location of the new addition as well as the technique of installation employed for your existing systems.
Step 1
Determine the location of the drain pipe that runs from the present residence to the septic tank. This may be accomplished by locating the main drain line beneath your property and recording the locations where it passes beneath or through the foundation. Move along this line outside the house until you are roughly eight feet away from the house, then turn around. Continue digging until you reach the drain line. There should be no more than 24 inches in depth below the surface of the ground for the line, which should be a 4-inch pipe.
Step 2
You should dig until you have exposed roughly three feet of the drainpipe once you have found it and marked it with chalk. In addition, you will need to dig down a little bit to provide access all the way around the pipeline. To get to the start point of the new field line, dig a ditch from this point onward. This ditch should be constructed in a straight line and at a small gradient from the current drain to the starting point of the new drain system. Remove any big boulders or roots that may have accumulated in this ditch.
Step 3
PVC pipe sections of four inches in diameter should be laid from the new drain point to the old drain line. Before applying PVC cement, make sure that all pipe ends and fittings have been cleaned using PVC pipe cleaner. Connect the drain line to the new drain point, ensuring sure that all of the fittings are securely fastened to the pipe. Once you have verified that there are no appliances running in the house, use the hacksaw to cut through the current drain line. Using a sharp knife, make two incisions roughly six inches apart.
Step 4
Insert the tee fitting into the hole that you just made in the wall with your fingers. Because the drainpipe and fitting will be a very tight fit, you will need to flex the drainpipe and wedge the fitting into position. Before installing the fitting, thoroughly clean the fitting and pipe ends. You will need to move rapidly once the cement has been applied in order to get the fitting in place since the cement will harden very quickly. Make the necessary adjustments to the fitting so that the new intake is directly in line with the new pipe.
Check that all of the fittings are in place before back-filling all of the ditches.
Adding a Second Toilet Line to a Septic
When considering the installation of a toilet on your septic system, it is important to check with the local construction authorities to ensure that you are permitted to do so. Depending on your jurisdiction, the size of your septic system is determined by the number of toilets you service, and exceeding this number without updating your tank or leach field is unlawful. Others, on the other hand, base system size on the number of beds and allow for the addition of numerous additional toilets as long as the number of people who use them does not rise.
The septic tank required for a single family house in Clackamas County, Oregon, for example, must have a minimum capacity of 1,000 gallons. A tank with a minimum volume of 1,500 gallons must be used in a residence with more than 4 bedrooms, according to the regulations.
- Locate the lateral waste line, which runs from your home to the septic tank and back again. Despite the fact that it is underground, it is typically straightforward to discover after the septic tank has been identified. Finally, if everything else fails, you might go to the septic system schematic that is on file at the county planning office. Identify and plan the quickest path between the placement of your new toilet and the most convenient point of connecting to the lateral waste line. Depending on where you live, this connection point might be in the center of the yard, adjacent to your house, or even in the crawl space. If the pipe is in the yard, use a shovel to dig around it to expose it if it is hidden by vegetation. Never dig without first calling 811, which is the national call-before-you-dig phone number, to determine the location of underground utility lines. Using a drill and hole saw, create a 3-inch hole on the bathroom floor to accommodate the toilet. As mentioned in the toilet installation instructions, make certain that it is installed at the right distance from both the back and side walls. Install a toilet flange in the opening and secure it to the floor with a screwdriver. Plastic pipe cement should be used to attach a fitting to the flange that will allow you to route the waste pipe in the direction that it needs to travel. Extend the waste pipe to its tie-in point along the most convenient route, cutting pipe with a hacksaw and gluing fittings together with plastic pipe cement in many situations. Closet ells are the most common type of 90-degree drainage fitting. Strapping pipes to the floor joists that run horizontally under the house is an excellent way to keep them safe. Installing a 2-inch vent pipe will allow you to vent the toilet. A typical configuration is for it to rise from a T fitting in the waste line and extend upward to connect with the main vent stack. When employing 3-inch waste lines, the venting system must not be more than 6 feet away from the toilet flange to be effective. Under some conditions, it is acceptable to produce a wet vent through a sink drain
- Nevertheless, you should speak with your local building authorities and/or a plumber before proceeding. A vent T fitting should be used to connect the vent pipe to the main vent. The primary vent should be cut using a hacksaw, then glued in the T and the new vent pipe glued to the T. Glue in a Y fitting and glue the new waste pipe to the fitting to connect the toilet waste pipe to the lateral main sewer line.
Things You Will Need
- Shovel, drill, 3-inch hole saw, toilet flange, closet fitting
- And other tools. Plastic pipe cement, 3-inch plastic pipe and fittings, hacksaw, and other supplies are needed. Pipe straps
- 2-inch plastic pipe and fittings
- Vent T fittings
- Y fittings
- Pipe straps
Tip
Every point along the waste pipe’s passage to the septic tank must have a minimum 1/4-inch-per-foot slope to ensure proper drainage. Additionally, the vent pipe must retain the same minimum slope toward the toilet drain as it does toward the toilet. If you have access to a neighboring toilet, such as one on the other side of the wall or in an adjoining bathroom, you may be able to connect the waste line from that toilet to your own.
Warning
- Septic system modifications have the potential to modify groundwater composition, posing a threat to public health as well as the environment. It is possible that you may want a permission from both the health department and the building department for this job.
Need a Small Bath in Detached Garage. Are There Any Self Contained Septic Systems I Could Use and What is Involved?
ewpk has posed the following question: I have a septic system, however I am aware that the expense of installing another septic system or the ability to add to mine is either prohibitively expensive or not authorized. Self-contained devices that can be pumped were something I’d heard about before. I can’t seem to find reliable information or rules. In addition to this building being on two acres, there are forests behind it. It would not be used on a regular basis, but rather as an overflow for guests.
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
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Generally speaking, in septic-legal areas (which yours may or may not be at this time for new construction, regardless of whether you already have a septic system), you can install a tank-only septic system (with no leach field), which requires an overfill alarm and level gauge, as well as truck emptying.
Similar in idea to a portable toilet, but with the added benefit of flowing water.
As a general rule, septic system sizes are determined by the number of bedrooms (which serves as an approximate proxy for the number of residents), rather than the number of bathrooms – so, in many cases, adding a bathroom does not necessitate upgrading the septic system; instead, you may simply be looking at installing plumbing in the garage, trenching to the septic tank or house (whichever is closer), and connecting to the household septic system.
A word of caution: if this will be used infrequently (i.e., not at least weekly, but preferably more frequently), make sure the inlet of the garage line comes in a foot or more ABOVE the line from the house if it is tying into that, or as close to a foot above the outlet level from the septic tank as possible if it is going straight to the septic tank (see note above).
A higher entry point (coming in from above to the connection rather than at the same level) eliminates this backup danger.
IN THE EVENT that the septic tank/home line is located uphill from the garage, it is customary for a detached house to install a septic lift pump to pump the sewage to the tank from inside.
If there is a power outage, you would still need to make sure that the water is running out there every week or two to keep it from sludging up and clogging the pump – not an ideal condition.
Other options include the use of a cesspool, which is a hole in the ground similar to a shallow well into which sewage is dumped and serves as both a leach pit and a septic tank if permitted in your area (usually only rural areas with no well within 100-300 feet depending on the area), if permitted in your area (generally only rural areas with no well within 100-300 feet depending on the area).
- A somewhat porous soil condition is required, and the system does not survive as long as a conventional system with an interceptor tank and leach lines, for example.
- Septic system permits are frequently available on their website if you search for them using your town’s name as a search term (or county if not in a legal town or city).
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Can you tap into an existing septic tank?
Adding more input lines to your septic tank is a viable option if your present septic tank is running satisfactorily and is operating far below its maximum capacity for consumption. In order to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. Insert the pipe into the tank’s intake port until the pipe stands out approximately 2 inches from the tank. Place the pipe far enough into the tank so that entering waste water does not follow the tankwall down but instead free-falls out of the pipe when it is full.
- Second, is it possible to expand a septic system?
- However, it can also increase the expense of building a septic system by 25 percent to 75 percent, depending on how close the old septic system plan came to supporting that fourth bedroom.
- When adding a toilet to your septic system, it’s necessary to check with the local building inspectors to see if you may do so legally.
- Is it true that shower water goes into the septic tank?
- When you flush a toilet, turn on the water, or take a shower, the water and waste run through the plumbing system in your home and into the septic tank, which is a gravity-fed system.
Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
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| Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP! |
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| Author:Zack (GA)Hey there to anyone that has some know how here I would be very grateful for some knowledge. I just discovered this forum and hope it will be my saving grace. I have renovated my garage and created a new addition. This included a bathroom with a sink, shower and toilet. We have an existing tank and have already been cleared by the city to add and additional line to the existing septic system. What I need to know is this. We have an additional hole on the side of our septic tank that just sits there open. This hole is located on the left side of the first tank adjacent to the entrance(main) inlet pipe coming from the home. It is an open hole in the cement and is about 4″ in diameter. We had a service man come to the house and tell us it is for an additional line however I needed to know definitively that it is indeed for this purpose and also if I run a line to it does the waste pipe that I run from the new addition to this hole just sit inside of it above the scum layer?What concerns me is that I am aware of there usually being a baffle at the point of the inlet and outlet lines. Also I am aware that the best way to tie into the existing tank is to use the existing inlet. However this is not possible as the plumbing is under the slab which is above the new addition and cannot be tied in outside because there would be zero pitch it would have to go up hill. So this is not possible.So to summarize I need to know if the hole on the side of the tank is for an additional drain and also if that additional drain is added does it just slip into the tank and rest above the scum allowing the waste and water to just fall into the tank? I am planning on adding this line as I already have the pipe sticking out of the house on the side. I just need to dig the trench and run the pipe but I don’t want to cause problems in my tank.Thank you in advance for anyones help! |
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| Author:KCRoto (MO)The second hole should be fine to run the line in, and if it has already been approved in respect to the size of the tank, then the biggest problem is going to be finding someone to get inside the tank to finish the install.In all honesty, the pipe being open wouldn’t hurt a thing, but around my area, the inspectors require a 90 installed on the line going into the tank (according to the guys that install tanks around here, I don’t install septics myself).I would check with the inspector to see what they require, and if they will even check… |
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| Author:packy (MA)adding more bathrooms doesn’t mean additional capacity is neededfor a septic tank. adding more bedrooms does. |
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| Author:mm (MD)Most tanks today come with three entry points, two sides and one front and center, all at the same elevation.When I use a side entry, I extend the pipe far enough thru so that the end of it can be seen from the center inlet lid.No need to get in the tank, just mortar the pipe-to-hole when finished. |
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| Author:hj (AZ)What you do or have to do depends on how the tank was made. The new connection MUST have a “baffle” whether it is a concrete “wall” as part of the tank, or a tee on the end of the pipe. However, if the pipe from the house is too high, the new opening should be at exactly the same height, so using it should not be a benefit. And, I have never heard of a tank being made with an unused “open” opening.Edited 1 times. |
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| Author:bernabeu (SC)ALL input lines require a ‘baffle’ or weir.you should NOT add an additional feed line at a lower elevation than the existing lineelsebackfeed into new lineat this point you WILL need a proorpay a LOT more later after attempted ‘rube goldberg’-Retired U.A. Local 1638″Measure TwiceCut Once” |
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How to Connect a Commode Drain to a Septic Tank
Home-Interior Adding a second toilet to an existing septic system is a very simple installation that requires little expertise. It will present some difficulties and, depending on the architectural architecture of your home, it may necessitate some physically demanding actions. Regardless of the particulars of your project’s circumstances, the fundamentals of the project stay the same. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.remove ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”> ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’)” loading=”lazy”>
Step 1
The placement of the septic drain line and the location where the drain drops from the toilet are both important to know. Make a travel plan to get between these two places. He or she should take the shortest route feasible, must be on the downward slope, and should have the fewest bends and turns possible.
Determine how much pipe and what sort of fittings will be required by taking accurate measurements and making a rough estimate. Make that you have all the relevant components before beginning.
Step 2
Attach a portion of 4-inch PVC pipe to the toilet flange, which will be extending down from the toilet above, and secure it with screws. It is important to remember that the drain line must constantly be slopped downward, otherwise water and garbage would accumulate in the drain, ultimately producing a blockage. From the toilet flange to the septic drain line, make sure that each fitting and segment of pipe is properly installed. Pipe cleaner should be used to thoroughly clean each pipe fitting and pipe end before applying the pipe cement.
Step 3
Make a mark on the ground where the septic tank drain and the new drain meet and overlap. Make certain that the washing machine and dishwasher are switched off, and that everyone is aware that they should not flush the toilet, before cutting into the drain line to begin. Cut a segment of pipe just large enough to allow a tee fitting with a hacksaw using a circular saw blade. To allow you to move the new fitting into position, there should be enough flex and give in the drain line to allow for this.
In order for the new aperture to intersect with the new drain line, place the tee so that it is in the right position.
Step 4
Using the tee fitting on the septic drain, connect the new drain line to the existing drain line. To ensure a tight and secure fit, make certain that the fittings slip together fully. You will also need to check to see that the drain line has not sagged as a result of the alteration. This means that you will need to support the drain line to compensate for the sag in the line itself. This can be accomplished by installing a support beneath the drain or a hanger attached to a floor joist above the drain.
Septic System for a Garage
This is something I am somewhat familiar with. I share a home with the former Deputy Director of the North Carolina State Department of Health and Human Services. Drains in your floor are not permitted in North Carolina; doing so places you in a different category. I’d phone and ask the local County Sanitarian about it without giving your name or identifying yourself. I had planned to put some in a horse wash pit here at the barn and pipe it to a ditch, but I was informed I couldn’t since it was against the rules.
- It has something to do with the classification of what is coming out of the pipe.
- Unless your shop is located within walking distance of your home’s septic system, you’ll most likely need to construct a 1100-1200 gallon two-stage septic tank with a grinder pump and a pump to connect it to the current septic system.
- The rationale for the huge tank is that, in the case of a long-term power loss, you may have enough capacity to avoid an overflow until power is restored, which is an advantage.
- If it’s too far away and you use it too frequently, it will quickly get overloaded.
- I thought that sounded ridiculous until we lost the shop.
- Once a week, I’d bring in a generator to power the site so that I could pump out the septic system.
- A thin coating of cement is applied over the whole surface until the CO is issued, which is how most people do it in this area.
The situation in your store is the same as in a commercial store with a floor drain; if a load of antifreeze or oil was thrown on the floor in a commercial store with a floor drain, it would go directly down the drain.
Linda has taught me a lot about public health, which I appreciate.
All it takes is for you to annoy someone enough for them to turn you in.
The next year, she retired from the state and proceeded to work as the Health Director for local government.
It’s the simple things that may mean a lot when you don’t give them much thought.
When putting ice in the cup, you’re supposed to use a scoop or an ice dispenser.
It does happen, and it has been linked to a person who has hepatitis placing the ice in the glasses incorrectly.
In fact, it was only after meeting Linda that I realized I’d been overcooking the turkey and pig on the barbecue using a meat thermometer all this time! However, the cuisine has improved, which is a positive development.
3 Tips for Remodeling Your Home with a Septic System – Septic Maxx
You may be considering expanding your house by adding another bedroom or a full new floor. You must also take into account the consequences that upgrading your house may have on your septic system in addition to the flooring and wall colors you choose. There are certain specific aspects to which you must pay great attention, such as how to reroute your plumbing and how much the entire operation will cost you in the long run. Inadequate consideration for your septic system while upgrading your house might result in expensive repairs that may wind up costing more than the actual home renovation project itself.
Locate Septic Tank
The location of your septic tank should be the first step taken before any construction begins. It is normally plainly marked on the layout plan of your house, but if that is not accessible for your use, you may have to do a little digging to find out where it is located. The distance between your residence and your septic tank must be at least 5 feet in every state. Generally speaking, in older homes, the septic tank is located in the rear, near the main bathroom window. It’s also a good idea to look for low or high points in the grass.
One of the easier ways to identify your septic tank is to just follow the sewage pipe and probe the groundacross the yarduntil you feel a firm surface.
Consider How Alterations Will Affect Your Septic Tank
In certain areas, you are only obligated to expand the capacity of your septic tank if you build an additional bedroom onto your house. This is due to the fact that the addition of another bedroom almost often entails the building of another bathroom, which might result in a septic tank overflow if not properly planned for. It is adequate for a two to three-bedroom home with an area of no more than 2,250 square feet to have a 900-gallon septic tank installed. A tank of 1,050 gallons is suitable for a four-bedroom home with a living space of up to 3,300 square feet.
Check Local Permit Requirements
In addition, you should make certain that the alteration of your property is approved. For example, in the aforementioned scenario where you may wish to add another floor to your house, many states may demand that your septic tank have a specific size in order to accommodate the additional level. This will guarantee that it is capable of dealing with the additional volume of garbage that you will be creating. Failing to comply with these requirements can result in fines as well as the inability to utilize insurance to pay any resulting septic system repairs that may arise.
Don’t forget about your sewage; our quality septic cleaning products are an environmentally safe approach to assist in the removal of fats, grease, oils, and other contaminants. Contact us at (800) 397-2384 or fill out our online purchase form to place your order today!
Adding a Bathroom to Your Basement: Design & Drainage Considerations
The addition of a bathroom to basement quarters not only makes life a bit simpler, but it also increases the value of your home in the long run. If you’ve converted your finished basement into a second bedroom, game room, or gym area, a basement bathroom allows you to take advantage of that space without having to trek upstairs when the urge to pee strikes. Building a bathroom in the basement may appear to be a logical home renovation project, but it is not something that should be undertaken lightly.
If you take care of those concerns before you begin, your project should go off well.
Nonetheless, becoming familiar with the project’s specifications will make it simpler to collaborate with your contractor in order to get the bathroom design you desire.
Design considerations
The first thing you should do is get in touch with your local building authority. You should be aware that with any construction project, particularly one in a basement, zoning rules and deed limitations will need to be taken into consideration. Aim to position the new bathroom as near to the existing plumbing and electrical wiring as feasible in the best case scenario. Often, placing your basement bathroom exactly below the bathroom on the floor above is the most effective solution. Utility hookups will be easier and less expensive as a result of this.
- Alternatively, would you want a half-bathroom with only a toilet and a sink, or would you prefer an entire bathroom with a bathtub or standing shower?
- For those who do need a place to clean up, try an economicalcornershowerinstead of a bathtub.
- It is vitally necessary to have a high-capacity ventilation fan to suck off moisture.
- In order to handle overflows, a floor drain and access to an outside wall for the dryer vent will be required.
Drainage considerations
When it comes to adding a bathroom to basement rooms, drainage is the most important factor to consider. Gravity is used to drain away sewage and wastewater from standard aboveground bathroom plumbing installations. When waste is moved down the pipes, it is assisted by gravity, which is referred to as a “fall” or “slope.” In order for the toilet, sink, tub, or shower to drain properly in a basement bathroom, there must be a sufficient drop.
When surveying your basement for the purpose of installing a new bathroom, your contractor will pay close attention to two major considerations.
- Plumbing depth—If your current plumbing drain is deep enough to allow for adequate drainage, bathroom building will be very straightforward. If this is the case, you’ll need to investigate some alternatives to traditional gravity-fed toilets
- If this is not the case, Measurement of pipe size— If your present pipes are too tiny, your plumber will need to install larger pipes in order to accommodate the basement drains.
Depending on the depth of your sewage line, your basement bathroom plumbing may be able to operate on gravity in the same way that your aboveground plumbing works. Obtaining information on the depth of your sewer pipe can be accomplished through your local public works agency. If you have a septic tank, you’ll need to determine whether or not your home’s septic lines are deep enough using the information you’ll most likely already possess. There may even be plumbing stubs accessible already if your property was constructed with the aim of adding a basement bathroom.
- Even if your drain lines are sufficiently deep, there are certain additional concerns to keep in mind.
- To prevent sewage from backing up into your toilet when connected to a public sewer line, you’ll need to install a backwater valve.
- There will be more work to be done if your drainage lines are not deep enough to generate adequate fall in your yard.
- However, for some homes, this will not be enough to generate adequate fall, but this does not imply that you should abandon your idea.
Basement toilet options
You have a variety of options for commodes for your new bathroom, depending on the plumbing that is already in place. Toilets with pressure-assistance— Despite the fact that your drainage pipes are theoretically too deep for gravity-fed plumbing, the fall in the basement is still not as great as it is on the higher levels of your home. Instead of putting yourself at danger of clogging your pipes with regular plumbing, invest in a pressure-assisted toilet, which employs air pressure to move waste through your pipes.
- A series of pipes runs up through the basement wall and out through the basement ceiling, where they connect to the sewer or septic tank line.
- There is a macerating feature in some of these types that grinds waste down to prevent blockage.
- New versions are powered by electricity, which eliminates the need for these issues.
- They’re similar to miniature septic tanks in that they only store waste for a short period of time.
- Because aboveground models are installed on the ground surface, there is no need to excavate for them.
- This tank may also be used to collect water from your sink, bathtub, or shower.
- These devices consist of a tank and pump that are installed in a hole beneath the basement floor.
Installation is more difficult for underground models than for aboveground ones, owing to the fact that they require excavation.
They use little to no water and convert your waste into compost that can be used to grow ornamental plants.
Bathtubs and showers are being installed.
It is possible that you may need to tear up the floor and excavate in order to install the plumbing.
You may also link your shower to your upflush toilet or sewage-ejector system as an alternative option.
If you’re planning on placing your basement bathroom against an aboveground outside wall, take advantage of the chance to bring natural light into the space.
In addition, pick bright ceiling lighting as well as lights for the vanity area to illuminate the space.
Your basement bathroom may be just as nice as your main bathroom if you choose the correct layout, fixtures, and accessories.
If you overlook any of the characteristics that distinguish belowground bathrooms from aboveground bathrooms, you might end up with a costly disaster on your hands.
However, if you have prior building knowledge, you may be able to do this project on your own.
Hire a professional plumber to do the task as quickly, easily, and reasonably as possible so that you can use your basement bathroom as soon as feasible. For more information on adding a bathroom to your completed basement, please call Black Diamond PlumbingMechanical now.
All You Need to Know About Adding a Basement Bathroom
Image courtesy of fotosearch.com Incorporating a basement bathroom can increase the value of your property, but installing toilets and sinks in a below-grade setting requires more than just a basic understanding of drainpipes and sewage lines. Because the gravity assist that works for trash removal upstairs will operate against waste flow belowgrade, transporting garbage to the sewer line is a difficult task. However, there are a variety of solutions that fall under the category of do it yourself.
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Belowground Water and Waste Pipes
Featured image via fotosearch.com Building a basement bathroom increases the value of the house, but installing toilets and sinks in a below-grade setting requires more than just a basic understanding of drainpipes and sewage lines to be successful. Because the gravity assist that works for trash removal upstairs will operate against waste flow belowgrade, transporting garbage to the sewer line is a difficult endeavor. In the case of DIY projects, there are a variety of possibilities to choose from.
Find dependable local contractors for any home improvement project+.
Aboveground Solutions
There are a variety of methods for transporting bathroom or basement wastewater to sewage or septic systems. The “upflushing toilet,” freestanding sewage-ejector systems, and composting toilets are examples of aboveground alternatives. Aboveground solutions are ones that do not need the homeowner or installer cutting through an existing basement slab, resulting in cheaper installation costs for the homeowner or installer. Upflushing toilets are available in a variety of styles and configurations, but all have a pumping mechanism that is concealed within or behind the toilet.
Although upflushing toilet systems are pricey, the money saved on installation expenses makes them a worthwhile investment.
“Upflushing toilets sit on top of the floor, you don’t have to break the concrete, and servicing them is easy,” he says.
Macerating and Composting Toilets
Some upflushing toilet systems are equipped with a macerating or grinding mechanism that breaks down waste into tiny pieces prior to pumping, hence reducing the likelihood of blockage. An upflushing toilet system consisting of a toilet bowl, toilet tank, and macerating unit, the Saniplus macerating toilet from Sanif is available. Located in the bathroom or behind the wall, the macerating device (which also contains an electrically driven motor and pump) has the capability of pumping waste twelve feet vertically and/or 150 feet horizontally, depending on the configuration chosen.
Composting toilets are also a potential option for below-grade conditions, but they are only intended for the disposal of toilet waste and nothing else.
The MS10 Composting Toilet by Envirolet is powered by electricity, is self-contained, and sits on the floor.
They eliminate water loss and do not require the use of chemicals in the composting process, making them a more ecologically friendly option.
Due to the limited amount of material that may be composted in a day, utilization must be closely monitored and the unit must be emptied on a regular basis. Composting toilets can cost upwards of $1,000 to install.
Sewage-Ejector Systems
A freestanding or aboveground sewage-ejector system is another waste removal alternative that does not necessitate the drilling of holes through concrete foundations. These systems are normally contained within an enclosure, with the toilet (which is typically not included) mounted on top of the enclosure. Mini septic tanks are what these systems are essentially. This collection tank holds waste from the toilet, sink, shower/bath, and washing machine. It also contains the pump that transports the trash up and into the home’s drainage pipes.
It costs roughly $600 to purchase the Up Jon system from Zoeller; however, it does not come with a toilet.
Belowground Options
Belowground sewage-ejector systems are the least expensive alternative, but they are also the most difficult to set up and maintain. It is intended for these tank-and-pump sets to be installed in a hole in a basement floor, allowing floor fixtures to drain into the tank by gravity. The size of these units varies, but they are normally twenty inches in diameter and thirty inches deep on average. According to industry standards, the capacity of a holding tank ranges from thirty to forty gallons.
In the past, you’d have to buy the pieces individually and assemble the whole thing yourself.” Basically, all you have to do now is drop it in the ground and tie it down.” A below-ground system should cost around $400, according to industry estimates.
Cutting through a concrete slab to excavate the unit’s installation hole and any drainage pipes from extra basement fixtures will put the homeowner back a significant amount of money.
If you flush anything down the toilet by mistake, it may be a very messy task to get it back out.
