How To Add Another Pipe To A Septic Tank? (Question)

Use a 4-inch pipe to connect the two septic tanks. Place this pipe into the inlet hole of your new septic tank before you lower it into the ground. After you’ve lowered your new septic tank, insert the other end of the pipe into your old septic tank’s outlet hole.

Can a septic tank have two inlets?

Are there two inlets for the septic tank? It should not change anything. Before you get to the tank, you have to connect the lines. It will work the same as if they were under the house.

Can you enlarge a septic system?

ENLARGING THE SYSTEM The increase from three to five bedrooms will require more septic tank capacity (usually 1.5 times), and that will involve replacing the current tank or adding an additional tank in series. The drainfield or other soil treatment component (mound, at-grade) will need to be enlarged by two-thirds.

Can you add a bathroom to an existing septic system?

When planning to add a toilet to your septic system, it’s important to contact the building authorities to find out if you can do it. Some jurisdictions base septic system size on the number of toilets serviced, and it’s illegal to exceed this number without upgrading the tank or leach field.

Why the inlet pipe in the septic tank is higher than the outlet pipe?

Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).

How do you tell if your septic tank is full?

How to tell your septic tank is full and needs emptying

  1. Pooling water.
  2. Slow drains.
  3. Odours.
  4. An overly healthy lawn.
  5. Sewer backup.
  6. Gurgling Pipes.
  7. Trouble Flushing.

How do you tap into an existing septic tank?

Use a 4-inch pipe to connect the two septic tanks. Place this pipe into the inlet hole of your new septic tank before you lower it into the ground. After you’ve lowered your new septic tank, insert the other end of the pipe into your old septic tank’s outlet hole.

What do you do if your septic tank is too small?

If the septic tank is too small or the drain field is in danger of overloading, homeowners may consider pumping the tank once or twice per year until they can renovate and enlarge the system.

Can you add onto a drain field?

You may damage the drainfield. Don’t pave over the drainfield. Drainfields need air to function properly. Soil compaction prevents oxygen from getting into the soil and prevents water from flowing away from the drainfield.

Can you add a bedroom to a septic system?

In particular states, it is only required that you increase the size of your septic tank if you add another bedroom to your home. This is so because the addition of another bedroom usually includes another bathroom in many occasions which can cause a septic tank overflow if not properly accommodated for.

How do you attach a toilet to an existing soil pipe?

The most simple way to connect a waste pipe to an existing soil pipe is to install a ‘strap on boss’ (pictured at the top of the article) to make a watertight connection. Simply cut a hole in the soil pipe and place the strap around the exterior of the pipe.

Do I need to upgrade my septic tank?

Under the new rules, if you have a specific septic tank that discharges to surface water (river, stream, ditch, etc.) you are required to upgrade or replace your septic tank treatment system to a full sewage treatment plant by 2020, or when you sell a property, if it’s prior to this date.

How to Tie Into an Existing Septic Tank

Adding more input lines to your current septic tank is a viable option if your tank is working properly and is much below its maximum capacity for consumption. If you want to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. The difficulty of this work will be greatly influenced by the location of the new addition as well as the technique of installation employed for your existing systems.

Step 1

Determine the location of the drain pipe that runs from the present residence to the septic tank. This may be accomplished by locating the main drain line beneath your property and recording the locations where it passes beneath or through the foundation. Move along this line outside the house until you are roughly eight feet away from the house, then turn around. Continue digging until you reach the drain line. There should be no more than 24 inches in depth below the surface of the ground for the line, which should be a 4-inch pipe.

Step 2

You should dig until you have exposed roughly three feet of the drainpipe once you have found it and marked it with chalk. In addition, you will need to dig down a little bit to provide access all the way around the pipeline. To get to the start point of the new field line, dig a ditch from this point onward. This ditch should be constructed in a straight line and at a small gradient from the current drain to the starting point of the new drain system. Remove any big boulders or roots that may have accumulated in this ditch.

Step 3

PVC pipe sections of four inches in diameter should be laid from the new drain point to the old drain line. Before applying PVC cement, make sure that all pipe ends and fittings have been cleaned using PVC pipe cleaner. Connect the drain line to the new drain point, ensuring sure that all of the fittings are securely fastened to the pipe. Once you have verified that there are no appliances running in the house, use the hacksaw to cut through the current drain line. Using a sharp knife, make two incisions roughly six inches apart.

Step 4

Insert the tee fitting into the hole that you just made in the wall with your fingers. Because the drainpipe and fitting will be a very tight fit, you will need to flex the drainpipe and wedge the fitting into position. Before installing the fitting, thoroughly clean the fitting and pipe ends. You will need to move rapidly once the cement has been applied in order to get the fitting in place since the cement will harden very quickly. Make the necessary adjustments to the fitting so that the new intake is directly in line with the new pipe.

Check that all of the fittings are in place before back-filling all of the ditches.

Adding a Second Toilet Line to a Septic

When considering the installation of a toilet on your septic system, it is important to check with the local construction authorities to ensure that you are permitted to do so. Depending on your jurisdiction, the size of your septic system is determined by the number of toilets you service, and exceeding this number without updating your tank or leach field is unlawful. Others, on the other hand, base system size on the number of beds and allow for the addition of numerous additional toilets as long as the number of people who use them does not rise.

The septic tank required for a single family house in Clackamas County, Oregon, for example, must have a minimum capacity of 1,000 gallons. A tank with a minimum volume of 1,500 gallons must be used in a residence with more than 4 bedrooms, according to the regulations.

  1. Locate the lateral waste line, which runs from your home to the septic tank and back again. Despite the fact that it is underground, it is typically straightforward to discover after the septic tank has been identified. Finally, if everything else fails, you might go to the septic system schematic that is on file at the county planning office. Identify and plan the quickest path between the placement of your new toilet and the most convenient point of connecting to the lateral waste line. Depending on where you live, this connection point might be in the center of the yard, adjacent to your house, or even in the crawl space. If the pipe is in the yard, use a shovel to dig around it to expose it if it is hidden by vegetation. Never dig without first calling 811, which is the national call-before-you-dig phone number, to determine the location of underground utility lines. Using a drill and hole saw, create a 3-inch hole on the bathroom floor to accommodate the toilet. As mentioned in the toilet installation instructions, make certain that it is installed at the right distance from both the back and side walls. Install a toilet flange in the opening and secure it to the floor with a screwdriver. Plastic pipe cement should be used to attach a fitting to the flange that will allow you to route the waste pipe in the direction that it needs to travel. Extend the waste pipe to its tie-in point along the most convenient route, cutting pipe with a hacksaw and gluing fittings together with plastic pipe cement in many situations. Closet ells are the most common type of 90-degree drainage fitting. Strapping pipes to the floor joists that run horizontally under the house is an excellent way to keep them safe. Installing a 2-inch vent pipe will allow you to vent the toilet. A typical configuration is for it to rise from a T fitting in the waste line and extend upward to connect with the main vent stack. When employing 3-inch waste lines, the venting system must not be more than 6 feet away from the toilet flange to be effective. Under some conditions, it is acceptable to produce a wet vent through a sink drain
  2. Nevertheless, you should speak with your local building authorities and/or a plumber before proceeding. A vent T fitting should be used to connect the vent pipe to the main vent. The primary vent should be cut using a hacksaw, then glued in the T and the new vent pipe glued to the T. Glue in a Y fitting and glue the new waste pipe to the fitting to connect the toilet waste pipe to the lateral main sewer line.

Things You Will Need

  • Shovel, drill, 3-inch hole saw, toilet flange, closet fitting
  • And other tools. Plastic pipe cement, 3-inch plastic pipe and fittings, hacksaw, and other supplies are needed. Pipe straps
  • 2-inch plastic pipe and fittings
  • Vent T fittings
  • Y fittings
  • Pipe straps

Tip

Every point along the waste pipe’s passage to the septic tank must have a minimum 1/4-inch-per-foot slope to ensure proper drainage. Additionally, the vent pipe must retain the same minimum slope toward the toilet drain as it does toward the toilet. If you have access to a neighboring toilet, such as one on the other side of the wall or in an adjoining bathroom, you may be able to connect the waste line from that toilet to your own.

Warning

  1. Septic system modifications have the potential to modify groundwater composition, posing a threat to public health as well as the environment. It is possible that you may want a permission from both the health department and the building department for this job.
See also:  Septic Tank Records Located Where? (Solution found)

Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!

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Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
Author:Zack (GA)Hey there to anyone that has some know how here I would be very grateful for some knowledge. I just discovered this forum and hope it will be my saving grace. I have renovated my garage and created a new addition. This included a bathroom with a sink, shower and toilet. We have an existing tank and have already been cleared by the city to add and additional line to the existing septic system. What I need to know is this. We have an additional hole on the side of our septic tank that just sits there open. This hole is located on the left side of the first tank adjacent to the entrance(main) inlet pipe coming from the home. It is an open hole in the cement and is about 4″ in diameter. We had a service man come to the house and tell us it is for an additional line however I needed to know definitively that it is indeed for this purpose and also if I run a line to it does the waste pipe that I run from the new addition to this hole just sit inside of it above the scum layer?What concerns me is that I am aware of there usually being a baffle at the point of the inlet and outlet lines. Also I am aware that the best way to tie into the existing tank is to use the existing inlet. However this is not possible as the plumbing is under the slab which is above the new addition and cannot be tied in outside because there would be zero pitch it would have to go up hill. So this is not possible.So to summarize I need to know if the hole on the side of the tank is for an additional drain and also if that additional drain is added does it just slip into the tank and rest above the scum allowing the waste and water to just fall into the tank? I am planning on adding this line as I already have the pipe sticking out of the house on the side. I just need to dig the trench and run the pipe but I don’t want to cause problems in my tank.Thank you in advance for anyones help!
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Re: Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
Author:KCRoto (MO)The second hole should be fine to run the line in, and if it has already been approved in respect to the size of the tank, then the biggest problem is going to be finding someone to get inside the tank to finish the install.In all honesty, the pipe being open wouldn’t hurt a thing, but around my area, the inspectors require a 90 installed on the line going into the tank (according to the guys that install tanks around here, I don’t install septics myself).I would check with the inspector to see what they require, and if they will even check…
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Re: Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
Author:packy (MA)adding more bathrooms doesn’t mean additional capacity is neededfor a septic tank. adding more bedrooms does.
Post Reply
Re: Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
Author:mm (MD)Most tanks today come with three entry points, two sides and one front and center, all at the same elevation.When I use a side entry, I extend the pipe far enough thru so that the end of it can be seen from the center inlet lid.No need to get in the tank, just mortar the pipe-to-hole when finished.
Post Reply
Re: Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
Author:hj (AZ)What you do or have to do depends on how the tank was made. The new connection MUST have a “baffle” whether it is a concrete “wall” as part of the tank, or a tee on the end of the pipe. However, if the pipe from the house is too high, the new opening should be at exactly the same height, so using it should not be a benefit. And, I have never heard of a tank being made with an unused “open” opening.Edited 1 times.
Post Reply
Re: Septic system additional line! Existing hole on side of tank? PLEASE HELP!
Author:bernabeu (SC)ALL input lines require a ‘baffle’ or weir.you should NOT add an additional feed line at a lower elevation than the existing lineelsebackfeed into new lineat this point you WILL need a proorpay a LOT more later after attempted ‘rube goldberg’-Retired U.A. Local 1638″Measure TwiceCut Once”
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Can you tap into an existing septic tank?

Adding more input lines to your septic tank is a viable option if your present septic tank is running satisfactorily and is operating far below its maximum capacity for consumption. In order to do this, you will need to integrate the new addition into the old system without causing any disruptions or changes to the existing system. Insert the pipe into the tank’s intake port until the pipe stands out approximately 2 inches from the tank. Place the pipe far enough into the tank so that entering waste water does not follow the tankwall down but instead free-falls out of the pipe when it is full.

  • Furthermore, is it possible to expand a septic system?
  • However, it can also increase the expense of building a septic system by 25 percent to 75 percent, depending on how close the old septic system plan came to supporting that fourth bedroom.
  • When adding a toilet to your septic system, it’s necessary to check with the local building inspectors to see if you may do so legally.
  • Is it true that shower water goes into the septic tank?
  • When you flush a toilet, turn on the water, or take a shower, the water and waste run through the plumbing system in your home and into the septic tank, which is a gravity-fed system.

How to Install Drain Pipes for a Septic Tank Yourself

Home-Diy Installing a septic tank is often done by a professional who has access to the necessary equipment. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); else if (sources.length) then this.parentNode.remove ‘/public/images/logo-fallback.png’) is a fallback logo image.

A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. Although the field lines cannot be built by the homeowner, this can result in considerable cost savings for the homeowner.

  • Home-Diy An experienced expert with the appropriate equipment is often required for septic tank installation. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to properly install it. When the length of the sources is greater than the length of the sources, then this.parentNode.removeChild(sources) is called
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  • Else if (sources.length) then this logo-fallback.png) is a placeholder for the picture /public/images/logo-fallback.png Loading time is set to “lazy” in this instance. The Lines are being prepared. An experienced expert with the appropriate equipment is often required for septic tank installation. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to properly install it. It is possible for homeowners to build field lines, which results in considerable cost savings over the long term.

Warning

Large bushes or trees should not be planted directly over drain lines.

  1. Inspect your property and get a percolation test performed. In most cases, you will need a copy of the perc test results in order to acquire a permit to build a septic system in your home. In order to assess how quickly the soil absorbs water, a perc test will be performed on your site by a licensed specialist on your behalf. The results of this test will be used to calculate the quantity of drain line that will be required for your system. Drain lines should be measured and marked out before installation. You can divide this down into many lines, but each line must be the same length, and there must be a minimum of six feet between each line in order to be considered complete. Prior to digging, mark the beginning and ending locations of each line, double-checking all measurements to ensure they are accurate. Dig each drain line to a depth of 30 inches and a width of 24 inches. However, while a pick and shovel may be used to do the task, a backhoe can complete it in a fraction of the time and with less strain on your back. To make the trenches as flat as possible, remove any large boulders or roots that may have accumulated in them. Each of these lines will be served by a pipe that will go from the distribution box to it. This is the location where the pipe from the distribution box enters the ditch and marks the beginning point of your drain line. Fill each drain line with gravel until it reaches a depth of 12 inches. Spread gravel over the area to be covered with drain pipes and smooth it up with your rake. Install a 4 inch PVC perforated pipe on top of the gravel to provide drainage. This pipe will be connected to the pipe that comes from the distribution box and will run the whole length of the drain line to connect to the drain. Pipe cleaner should be used to clean each pipe junction before applying pipe cement. Before continuing, double-check that all of the fittings are in place. To finish covering the drain lines, continue to pour additional gravel into the system until the pipes are covered by roughly 1 to 2 inches of material. Using a rake, smooth out the gravel. A layer of geotextile material should be rolled out to cover the whole length and width of the drain line in order to prevent dirt from filtering into the drain lines and to aid in keeping roots out of the drainage system. The drain lines should be backfilled somewhat to allow for some small mounding to compensate for the settling that will occur. Grass seed should be planted on top of drain lines to aid in the absorption process and to avoid erosion.

The Drip Cap

  • Installing a septic tank is often done by a professional who has access to the necessary equipment. A concrete septic tank can weigh several thousand pounds, and the ordinary homeowner does not have the necessary tools to safely install it in the ground. Dig each drain line to a depth of 30 inches and a width of 24 inches. Ensure that any large rocks or roots are removed from the trenches, and that the foundation is as level as possible
  • Fill each drain line with gravel until it reaches a depth of 12 inches. In addition, this pipe will link to the pipe that comes from the distribution box and will run the whole length of the drain line.

How to Install a Septic Tank with Drain Line

It is discussed in this article how to set up a septic tank with a drain line. A three-compartment septic tank is covered in detail in this project, which includes all of the processes required to complete the installation. This septic tank has adequate capacity to accommodate 4-6 people, making it an excellent choice for most households. Even if the installation is straightforward, you will need to rent a mini-excavator or, ideally, a backhoe digger to do the job properly. It is important to exercise caution when using detergents, disinfectants, or other acid cleansers since they will interfere with the operation of the bacteria that decompose the waste materials.

A simple explanation for how the system works is that the majority of the trash is transformed into sewage water.

Every two years, you will be required to remove the solids from the system.

The water will then be able to seep into the soil through the gravel layer.

Made from this plan

The construction of the sewer lines from the house to the site of the septic tank is the first step in the project’s development. Excavate the trenches such that the pipes have a 1/8 inch dip each foot of excavation. The pipes must be placed on a bed of sand and then completely covered with sand. The sand will protect the pipes, and it will also serve as an excellent marker for future operations, should it be necessary to dig further trenches. Decide on the position of the septic tank and mark the area with a marker.

  • Furthermore, the depth of the hole will be decided by the size and placement of the septic tank as well as the location of the sewage line.
  • We also employed a dumper truck to remove the soil from the site.
  • Make certain that the sewer pipe has a 1.5 percent slope when it is installed.
  • We relocated the septic tank with the help of a backhoe digger after securing it with a heavy-duty strap and moving it.
  • Check to verify that the septic tank intake is compatible with the sewer pipe.
  • We used a spirit level to ensure that the tank was upright during the installation.
  • Sand should be poured around the tank.

If you do not fill the tank with water, it will collapse due to the weight of the earth on top of the container.

We will not be constructing a drain field for this project, but rather an 80-foot-long trench.

You may either construct two 40-foot-long trenches or a wide surface area and install three 25-foot-long drain pipes on it.

We connected the header pipe to the septic tank, ensuring that it had a 2 percent slope to prevent backflow.

Because it will move quite swiftly, using a backhoe digger is highly recommendable.

Trenches should be filled with gravel to the point where the drain pipe (which is normally 4′′ in diameter and perforated) has a 1/8′′ per foot slope.

Using a 4′′ layer of gravel, cover the drain pipe and make sure the surface is level.

Geothextile cloth should be used to cover the trench.

Because the fabric prevents the pebbles from becoming mixed with the soil and clogging the drain pipe, it is effective.

At the end of the drain pipe, you must add a vent pipe to provide for proper ventilation.

This also allows for simple access to the drain pipe in the event that it has to be cleaned.

We moved the earth that we had dug back into the trenches with the use of the backhoe’s front loader bucket and a rake.

First and foremost, you must connect the riser to the septic tank.

In order to have easy access to the tank for maintenance and inspection, the top of the riser should be slightly above the level of the surrounding ground.

These sheets are thin and rather stiff, despite their small weight.

As a result, you must first cover the tank with these sheets, followed by a 4′′ layer of dirt on top of that.

The polystyrene sheets must be covered with dirt once they have been laid out on the ground.

Work carefully so that you do not harm the tank.

On the blog, you can also get a comprehensive guide on how to construct a concrete pump house.

Make sure to read the previous articles in the Brick House Construction Series to see what more is in store for you!

We appreciate you taking the time to read our article on how to construct a septic tank with drain line, and we encourage you to go through the rest of our projects. Please spread the word about our articles to your friends by using the social media sharing buttons.

Related Posts

While you are huddled inside your house, trying to remain warm during the severe winter months, your septic system may be struggling to keep up with the extreme cold. Septic systems are built to withstand extreme temperatures, but if they are not properly maintained and protected, they may be damaged by freezing temperatures. Septic problems can be avoided throughout the cold months if your system is properly protected. Here are some precautions you can take to keep your system protected throughout the winter months, as well as what to do if you experience problems as a result of cold temperatures or freezing temperatures.

How to Protect Your Septic System During the Winter

There is always the potential that your septic system will freeze if the temps drop below the freezing point. The pipes that run from your home to your septic tank, in particular, are particularly vulnerable to freezing. It is also possible for the tank, drainfield, and pipelines leading to the drainfield to freeze.

Winterize Your Plumbing Pipes

If you do not intend to remain in your home during the winter, it is advisable to winterize your pipes in order to prevent them from freezing and break throughout the season. Emptying the water heater and draining all of the water from the pipes constitutes this procedure. It is common practice for some homeowners to add antifreeze to their systems; however, doing so is not suggested for those who have a septic system since it will harm the microorganisms in the tank.

Avoid Compacted Snow

While snow may function as an excellent insulator for the pipes that link your septic system to your home, you must take care to ensure that the snow does not become compacted. It is necessary for the survival of microorganisms in your septic tank that they have access to pore space, which allows water and air to flow freely among the materials in the tank. When the earth around your septic system becomes compacted, there is no area for air and water to travel through. If the snow becomes compacted on top of the system, it might cause ice to sink deeper into the tank, causing it to become unable to function.

Add Insulation

In the event that there isn’t enough snow to offer adequate insulation for your system, you may have to add additional insulation yourself. Straw, leaves, mulch, or hay can be used to add additional insulation to your home. The addition of insulation materials to external pipes is possible; nevertheless, it is recommended that a skilled expert perform this task. You might end up with loosened pipes or damage to your plumbing system if you do this yourself. Expert plumbers, like as our team at Peak Sewer, are committed to putting in place preventative measures in order to avoid problems in the first place.

Contact us for more information.

Fix Leaky Faucetsand Toilets

However, while it is generally advised that you let a trickle stream of water to run from your taps to prevent freezing, allowing leaks to continue in your house can result in problems with your septic system as well.

As a result of these leaks, water will be able to enter the septic system, making it difficult for bacteria to replenish themselves in the septic tank. If there aren’t enough bacteria in the tank to break down waste, heat output will reduce, which might result in the tank being frozen.

How to Solve Septic System Problems in the Winter

We’d love to tell you that you can cure septic problems on your own throughout the winter, but the fact is that you should hire a professional to handle these difficulties for you instead. Make sure to avoid making the following blunders if you decide to take care of the situation yourself:

  • Antifreeze and salt should not be used in the cooling system. As previously stated, this has the potential to severely impact the natural microorganisms in your septic tank. Fire should never be used to defrost the system
  • This is just something we want to point out since someone somewhere has attempted it. It is not necessary to run water continuously to defrost the system. The fact is that, while this may be an effective preventative approach in certain circumstances, it will not solve the problem. Please do not flush hot water down the drain. A total blockage may result in the rupture of your pipes
  • However, this is not always the case.

The only DIY that is risk-free is to heat the part of pipe that has been frozen. This only works if you are able to get entry to the place in a safe manner. To thaw out the pipe, use a heat lamp or an electric heater to warm the air and melt any ice that has formed; otherwise, it is advised that you bring in the pros.

Call the Experts!

Technicians that are well-trained and educated have the equipment and abilities necessary to thaw frozen septic pipes and re-open your system. Professionals are the most qualified to assess the symptoms of your septic system and determine the root cause of the problem. They can discover the source of the freezing with the help of specific gear such as cameras, and they can assess what sort of repairs are necessary. Using heat tape and tank heaters, plumbers can assist your system maintain a consistent temperature even if it is not completely frozen.

Whatever the problem, the root cause of the freezing must be identified and corrected in order to avoid refreezing in the future.

Most importantly, you should not leave the health of your septic system to chance during the winter months.

If you’re ready to prepare your septic system for winter, or if you need assistance with a septic system problem, please contact us right now!

How to Naturally Clean & Maintain Your Septic System

Without the proper knowledge, septic systems may be difficult to keep up with and manage. If you suspect that your toilets aren’t flushing properly or that your pipes may need some cleaning, you should avoid introducing harsh chemicals into your septic system since they can disturb the naturally existing biome of bacteria that is necessary for the system to work effectively. Our team at Fagone Plumbing was inspired to publish a blog post that would teach readers how to add a natural cleanse to their septic system without endangering the system’s performance.

Simple, Quick Cleanse

This procedure is a quick, mild remedy that is also effective. It is very simple to use. It is necessary to use the power of baking soda, vinegar, and lemon to achieve success with this procedure. Starting with a quarter-cup baking soda and a half-cup vinegar mixture, pour it directly into the toilet. Repeat this process several times. After that, squeeze in two teaspoons of lemon juice. A chemical reaction occurs when the baking soda and vinegar are mixed, resulting in a fizzing sound and the breakdown of grime and debris.

Following a flush, this solution will clean the inside of your toilet bowl and the pipes that run through your system as a result. Furthermore, because this is a natural remedy, it will have no adverse effect on your system’s beneficial microorganisms.

Homemade Septic Tank Treatment

As previously stated in this article, healthy bacteria are required to guarantee that your septic system is operating effectively. Because of the bacteria in your system, sediments are broken down more quickly, allowing for simpler movement to the leach field. In addition, it is beneficial when it comes time to have your septic system pumped. The following are the elements that will be necessary for this natural solution: Water, sugar, cornmeal, and dry yeast are the main ingredients. Prepare the combination by first heating around a half gallon of water until it comes to a boil.

  1. Because the sugar will function as the initial food source for your bacteria!
  2. Allow the cornmeal to absorb the water before mixing everything together until it is well mixed.
  3. Once everything has been blended, pour the mixture into the toilet and flush it.
  4. That way, you may be certain that the mixture is pushed all the way into your septic tank.
  5. Upon completion of this treatment, your tank should have returned to a healthy bacterial environment.

Fagone Plumbing Can Help!

If you have any reason to believe your septic system may be performing better, give Fagone Plumbing a call right away! It doesn’t matter if it’s a bacteria problem or something else; we will be able to assess the problem and deliver the most cost-effective solution to get your septic system back up and running correctly!

The Advantages and Disadvantages of a Septic Tank System

When it comes to dealing with waste water in your house, there are two options. One method is through the use of municipal sewage lines, which convey waste water from your property to a treatment plant in the area. A septic tank is the second type of source of sewage. In light of the above, the specialists at Steve Mull Plumbing would like to discuss with all of our valued clients the different pros and disadvantages of a septic tank system, as well as some alternatives. A septic tank is a tank that is built beneath the earth and away from your home.

The water itself is pushed out of the septic tank and into the earth, and the waste is collected separately until it is time for periodic maintenance, at which point it is pumped out once again.

Because a septic tank causes you to concentrate on the quantity of water you are using at any given moment, many individuals find themselves being more efficient because they do not want to overload or overwork their septic system.

The Advantages of a Septic Tank System

Because massive underground sewer lines are extremely expensive to construct, install, and operate, a septic tank is often the most cost-effective option. A septic tank, on the other hand, is far less expensive to build and does not need homeowners to pay monthly maintenance fees. Another advantage of a septic tank is that they are extremely long-lasting and, when properly kept, need very little maintenance. The fact that septic tanks are ecologically friendly is a last advantage of using one.

Furthermore, because all of the recycled water is absorbed by various sorts of plant life in the surrounding area, it is extremely ecologically beneficial.

Disadvantages of a Septic Tank System

It is possible for septic lines to become blocked by a variety of different products that should not be flushed down the toilet or poured down the drain. It is possible to discover a blocked septic tank by the presence of a slow-draining sink or tub, as well as toilets that flush at an equally sluggish rate. If you see any of these indicators, contact a licensed plumber immediately so that they can assess the situation and suggest appropriate remedies. An additional drawback of a septic tank is that it must be pumped every 2-5 years, at a cost to the homeowner ranging between $250 and $450 every pumping.

  1. When a drainage pipe is broken, whether by tree roots, a digging accident, or even a car or other object interfering with the pipe, you will almost certainly find yourself in the midst of a major problem and a resulting mess.
  2. This will necessitate the urgent replacement of the damaged drainage pipe, which can be rather expensive.
  3. Remember, if you have a septic tank and are experiencing issues with it, or if you are in need of any sort of plumbing services or repairs, the professionals at Steve Mull Plumbing are the ones to contact.
  4. We are looking forward to the opportunity to serve you and to provide you with the greatest quality plumbing products and services this side of Tennessee.
  5. Get in touch with our helpful staff today!

Hooking into a septic line

I installed a macerator and routed a 120-foot 1-inch PVC line to the clean out. I installed male hose fittings on both ends of the line and housed them in a valve box with a green cover. It’s a small piece of 3/4 inch black hose that connects the one nearest to the clean out to the other one. I encased a portion of it inside a two-inch pipe since it was in a location where large trucks might easily run over it (like a pump truck for my neighbor on a septic tank). Originally, I had planned to build a 4 inch line that would connect directly to the clean out pipe, however I ran into difficulties due to the appropriate drop and the necessity for certain right angles.

I was able to dump without having any right angles by attaching a small hose to the end of the PVC line and putting the open end into the clean out while dumping.

It did, however, address my problem, and the two sites I set up (one for me and one for visiting guests) can both use a macerator, allowing me to avoid having to travel to a nearby RV park to dump.

3 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES

By Admin on November 12, 2020 Your efforts to live as environmentally conscious as possible, as a responsible homeowner, are likely already underway, with practices such as recycling, composting, and purchasing energy-efficient equipment among your list of accomplishments. As a septic tank owner, you want to be sure that anything you put into your tank and septic field is causing the least amount of ground contamination as is reasonably practicable. Fortunately, there are a number of modest improvements you can do immediately to make your septic system even more ecologically friendly than it already is.

Have your septic tank inspected and pumped on a regular basis.

A bigger septic tank with only a couple of people living in your house, for example, will not require pumping as frequently as a smaller septic tank or as a septic tank that must manage the waste products of multiple family members will require.

When in doubt about how often to pump your septic tank, consult with a professional for advice.

In addition to locating and repairing any damage, a professional can ensure that the septic field is in good working order and that your septic tank is functional, large enough to handle your family’s waste, and not causing any unwanted pollution in nearby ground water.

Avoid flushing non-biodegradable items down the toilet or down the toilet.

Items that are not biodegradable are unable to properly decompose in the septic tank and might cause the system to get clogged.

In addition to causing issues in your house, septic system backups can damage ground water in the area surrounding your septic field.

Towels made of paper Products for feminine hygiene Grease or fats are used in cooking.

grinds from a cup of coffee Even if you have a trash disposal, the food scraps that you flush down the drain and bring into your septic system may cause unanticipated harm to your plumbing system.

Food scraps can enhance the amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus in the wastewater, which can disturb the natural bacterial balance of the septic tank, among other things.

Water conservation should be practiced.

Exceedingly large amounts of water use will interfere with the normal flow of wastewater from your home into your septic tank.

Limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower and turning off the faucet while brushing your teeth, as well as purchasing a smaller dishwasher and washing machine that use less water, are all simple strategies to reduce water use in your home.

The following are some basic steps you can take to make your septic system more ecologically friendly: save water, maintain your septic system and tank, and recycle wastewater. To get answers to any of your septic tank-related issues, get in touch with the experts at Upstate Septic Tank, LLC.

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