How Many Loads Of Dirt To Cover Septic Tank? (Correct answer)

Considering that the average absorption capacity of the soil is one-third of a gallon of water per square foot, five loads of laundry per day would roughly be the maximum number of laundry loads a normal-sized septic tank could handle on a daily basis.

How much soil should cover a septic tank?

Each layer should be uniform, no greater than 24 inches thick, and of nearly equal heights around the perimeter of the tank. However, compaction under the haunch (bottom curvature of some tanks) is best done in 6- to 12-inch layers.

Should a septic tank lid be covered with dirt?

The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them. A septic tank stores the solids from drains and needs to be pumped out about every two years, so it’s not a good idea to cover the area — you need to always be sure where to find the tank.

How much dirt should be over a leach field?

Septic systems are generally planned to have anywhere from 6 inches to 30 inches of soil on top of them.

How do you cover a septic tank area?

The Do’s For Hiding Your Septic Tank

Plant tall native grasses with fibrous roots around the opening to conceal the tank lid from view.
Place a light statue, bird bath or potted plant over the septic lid.
Septic tank risers and covers are an alternative to concrete and blend into green grass.

How many lids are on a septic tank?

In order to make repairs or perform regular maintenance or cleaning/pumping of the tank, access must be provided. There are usually two lids located at the top of the septic tank-one located over the inlet “T” and one located over the outlet “T” (see “Septic Components: Septic Tanks”).

How deep should septic tank be buried?

In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.

Do septic tanks need to be airtight?

Septic tanks need to be watertight. The riser should be sealed to the top of the tank and the riser cover should be sealed to the riser with butyl rubber or some other flexible sealant. No liquid should enter or leave the tank.

Is it OK to cover septic tank lids?

If you have a traditional septic system, the tank should be pumped every 3-5 years. That means that the septic lids should be accessible every 3-5 years. You can use almost any temporary, movable objects to cover your lids, like: Mulch (but not landscaping)

Can you bury septic tank lids?

In most cases, all components of the septic tank including the lid are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. Unless the septic tank has special risers that position the lid at ground level, you’ll have to dig for it.

Can I add dirt on top of septic field?

After the installation of a new septic system, you may see some settling of the soil around and over the tank and lines leading to the drain field. Do not add additional soil, as it will interfere with the evaporation of excess water from the field.

Can I put dirt over my drain field?

Never add additional soil over the drain field unless it is a minimal amount used to restore an area that may have been eroded or pulled up by removing another plant. Try not to be overly zealous when tilling the soil for planting. Remember that the drain lines may be as close as 6 inches from the soil surface.

Why is the ground soft around my septic tank?

The presence of healthy, lushly growing plants around your septic tank or along the route of your drainage lines indicates wet areas, as does a spongy or damp feel to the ground. Excess moisture might mean that your tank is full or that your drainage pipes are damaged.

How can I hide my septic mound?

Plant shrubs or perennial plants on the berms around the mound or along the edges where the berms meet the flat part of your yard. Avoid planting shrubs or anything with deep roots on the mound itself.

What can you put over a septic tank?

Put plastic sheets, bark, gravel or other fill over the drainfield. Reshape or fill the ground surface over the drainfield and reserve area. However, just adding topsoil is generally OK if it isn’t more than a couple of inches. Make ponds on or near the septic system and the reserve area.

Types of Septic Systems

Septic system design and size can differ significantly from one neighborhood to the next, as well as throughout the country, due to a variety of variables. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, closeness to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all considerations to take into consideration. The following are 10 of the most often encountered septic system configurations. It should be noted that this is not an exhaustive list; there are several additional types of septic systems.

Septic Tank, Conventional System, Chamber System, Drip Distribution System, Aerobic Treatment Unit, Mound Systems, Recirculating Sand Filter System, Evapotranspiration System, Constructed Wetland System, Cluster / Community System, etc.

Septic Tank

This tank is underground and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for receiving and partially treating raw home sanitary wastewater. Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whereas greases and lighter solids float to the surface. The sediments are retained in the tank, while the wastewater is sent to the drainfield for further treatment and dispersion once it has been treated.

Conventional System

Septic tanks and trench or bed subsurface wastewater infiltration systems are two types of decentralized wastewater treatment systems (drainfield). When it comes to single-family homes and small businesses, a traditional septic system is the most common type of system. For decades, people have used a gravel/stone drainfield as a method of water drainage. The term is derived from the process of constructing the drainfield. A short underground trench made of stone or gravel collects wastewater from the septic tank in this configuration, which is commonly used.

Effluent filters through the stone and is further cleaned by microorganisms once it reaches the soil below the gravel/stone trench, which is located below the trench.

Chamber System

Gravelless drainfields have been regularly utilized in various states for more than 30 years and have evolved into a standard technology that has mostly replaced gravel systems. Various configurations are possible, including open-bottom chambers, pipe that has been clothed, and synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene media. Gravelless systems can be constructed entirely of recycled materials, resulting in considerable reductions in carbon dioxide emissions during their lifetime. The chamber system is a type of gravelless system that can be used as an example.

The key advantage of the chamber system is the enhanced simplicity with which it can be delivered and built.

This sort of system is made up of a number of chambers that are connected to one another.

Wastewater is transported from the septic tank to the chambers through pipes. The wastewater comes into touch with the earth when it is contained within the chambers. The wastewater is treated by microbes that live on or near the soil.

Drip Distribution System

An effluent dispersal system such as the drip distribution system may be employed in a variety of drainfield configurations and is very versatile. In comparison to other distribution systems, the drip distribution system does not require a vast mound of dirt because the drip laterals are only placed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In addition to requiring a big dosage tank after the sewage treatment plant to handle scheduled dose delivery of wastewater to drip absorption areas, the drip distribution system has one major disadvantage: it is more expensive.

Aerobic Treatment Unit

Aerobic Treatment Units (ATUs) are small-scale wastewater treatment facilities that employ many of the same procedures as a municipal sewage plant. An aerobic system adds oxygen to the treatment tank using a pump. When there is an increase in oxygen in the system, there is an increase in natural bacterial activity, which then offers extra treatment for nutrients in the effluent. It is possible that certain aerobic systems may additionally include a pretreatment tank as well as a final treatment tank that will include disinfection in order to further lower pathogen levels.

ATUs should be maintained on a regular basis during their service life.

Mound Systems

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock might be a good alternative. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was erected. The effluent from the septic tank runs into a pump chamber, where it is pumped to the mound in the amounts recommended. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it continues to be treated. However, while mound systems can be an effective solution for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular care.

Recirculating Sand Filter System

Sand filter systems can be built either above or below ground, depending on the use. The effluent is discharged from the septic tank into a pump compartment. Afterwards, it is pushed into the sand filter. The sand filter is often made of PVC or a concrete box that is filled with a sand-like substance. The effluent is pushed through the pipes at the top of the filter under low pressure to the drain. As the effluent exits the pipelines, it is treated as it passes through the sand filtering system.

However, sand filters are more costly than a standard septic system because they provide a higher level of nutrient treatment and are thus better suited for areas with high water tables or that are adjacent to bodies of water.

Evapotranspiration System

Evaporative cooling systems feature drainfields that are one-of-a-kind. It is necessary to line the drainfield at the base of the evapotranspiration system with a waterproof material. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the atmosphere. At the same time, the sewage never filters into the soil and never enters groundwater, unlike other septic system designs. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are effective. The environment must be desert, with plenty of heat and sunshine, and no precipitation.

Constructed Wetland System

Construction of a manufactured wetland is intended to simulate the treatment processes that occur in natural wetland areas. Wastewater goes from the septic tank and into the wetland cell, where it is treated. Afterwards, the wastewater goes into the media, where it is cleaned by microorganisms, plants, and other media that eliminate pathogens and nutrients. Typically, a wetland cell is constructed with an impermeable liner, gravel and sand fill, and the necessary wetland plants, all of which must be capable of withstanding the constant saturation of the surrounding environment.

As wastewater travels through the wetland, it may escape the wetland and flow onto a drainfield, where it will undergo more wastewater treatment before being absorbed into the soil by bacteria.

Cluster / Community System

In certain cases, a decentralized wastewater treatment system is owned by a group of people and is responsible for collecting wastewater from two or more residences or buildings and transporting it to a treatment and dispersal system placed on a suitable location near the dwellings or buildings. Cluster systems are widespread in settings like rural subdivisions, where they may be found in large numbers.

Septic System Do’s and Don’ts – Septic Tank and Septic System Services, Repairs, Installations in New Jersey

Skip to the main content MenuClose Take note of these suggestions on what to do and what not to do if you have a septic system for waste management at your residence or place of business. A decent rule of thumb is: if you haven’t eaten it, wouldn’t eat it, or couldn’t eat it, don’t put anything in the septic system.

Septic System Do’s

Spread out your laundry usage over the course of the week rather than doing many loads on one day. However, while it may be handy to dedicate a whole day to laundry, doing so would place a significant strain on your septic system. Consider connecting your laundry trash to a separate waste disposal system to save money (dry well or seepage pit). While it is not generally essential, it will minimize the pressure on the regular system and allow a mediocre system to survive. Laundry loads should be spaced out and only complete loads should be washed. In order to complete one load of laundry, 47 gallons of water are required. It makes a significant difference to your septic tank if you just do one load every day rather than seven loads on Saturday. In addition, front-loading washers consume less water than top-loading washers
Liquid laundry detergent should be used. Clay is used as a ‘carrier’ in powdered laundry detergents to transport the detergent. This clay can expedite the building of sediments in the septic tank and perhaps fill the disposal area
Reduce the number of home cleaners (bleach, strong cleansers, and similar harmful compounds)

And reduce the amount of fertilizer and pesticides used. Home sewage treatment systems are not adversely affected by the presence of detergents, food waste, laundry waste, and other household chemicals in reasonable proportions. Don’t forget to keep a permanent record of where the most important sections of your septic system are situated in case you need to do future maintenance (such as septic pumping service or field repairs)
Schedule septic pumping service on a regular basis. Every two to three years, or if the total depth of sludge and scum surpasses one-third of the liquid level of the tank, the contents of the septic tank should be drained out. It is possible that the sediments will be transferred into the absorption field, or leach field as it is more frequently known, if the tank does not receive regular cleaning. A rapid blockage ensues, which is followed by a premature failure, and eventually the leach field must be replaced. In comparison to rebuilding your leach field, pumping your septic tank is less costly. Instead of using the inspection ports located above the inlet and exit baffles, insist on having your septic tank cleaned through the manhole in the center of the top of your septic tank. Don’t forget to keep track of your septic pumping service and septic system maintenance. When at all feasible, conserve water by using water-saving gadgets. Reduced flush toilets and shower heads are readily available on the market. Install water fixtures that consume little water. Showerheads (2.5 gallons per minute), toilets (1.6 gallons), dishwashers (5.3 gallons), and washing machines are all examples of high-volume water users (14 gallons). A family of four may save 20,000 gallons of water per year by putting fixtures such as these in their home. Inspect any pumps, siphons, or other moving elements in your system on a regular basis
And Trees with substantial root systems that are developing near the leach field should be removed or prevented from growing there. Planting trees around your leach field is not recommended. Branches and roots from trees in close proximity to the absorption lines may clog the system. Check your interceptor drain on a regular basis to verify that it is free of obstructions

And Run water routinely down drains that are rarely used, such as sinks, tubs, showers, and other similar fixtures, to prevent harmful gases from building up and producing aromas within
All drainage from the roof, cellar, and footings, as well as surface water, must be excluded from the drainage system. It is permissible to discharge drainage water directly to the ground surface without treatment. Check to see that it is draining away from your sewage treatment facility. There should be no drainage of roof downspouts into the leach field. When water softeners are used, the backwash contains salt, which might harm your leach field. In order to protect your well and precious plants, you should discharge this waste into a separate system or to the ground surface. Make sure that swimming pools (above-ground or in-ground) are kept away from the leach field.

Septic System Don’ts

Garbage disposals should be avoided. In addition to increasing the accumulation of solids in the septic tank, garbage grinders also increase solids entering the leach fields and pits, which are both detrimental to the environment. Their downsides exceed the convenience they give, and they are thus not suggested for houses that have their own sewage treatment systems in place. If septic tanks are utilized, the capacity of the tank should be raised, or the discharge should be routed via a separate tank first, known as a garbage tank. The system should discharge into the septic tank or into a separate leaching system rather than straight into the current leaching system once it has been installed. For those who have a garbage disposal, make sure to pump it more frequently– or, better yet, compost your kitchen wastes altogether. Disposals result in the accumulation of fats, particularly from meat and bones, as well as insoluble vegetable particles. Here are a few items (this is not an exhaustive list) that should never be dumped into a septic tank or leach field:

Cigarette butts, disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, tampons, handi-wipes, pop-off toilet wand scrubbers, garbage, condoms, hair, bandages, and so forth

Ragstrings, coffee grounds, paper towels, anti-bacterial soaps – biodegradable soaps only
No “biocompatible soaps”

Ragstrings, coffee grounds, paper towels Dead fish or small animals
Rubber, plastic, or metallic things
Hard toilet paper – soft toilet paper is preferable for the tank.

Excessive use of chlorine and chemicals should be avoided – (1 part chlorine to 5 parts water makes an effective bacteria cleaning spray)
Allowing water conditioning backwashes or outflow from water softeners, purifiers, sanitizers, or conditioners is not recommended. Dehumidifiers and air conditioners release moisture
Discharges from hot pools and jacuzzis Water from leaking devices, such as toilets that are difficult to detect. Make a habit of color testing the toilet on a regular basis to look for septic system issues. Keep dirt and inert materials to a minimum. Clothes, fruits, and vegetables that have been soiled should be dusted off before washing. Even diluted, do not dispose of chemicals from x-ray equipment since they will condense and harm the subsurface environment, which is against the law. Avoid using hair conditioners that include heavy oils – if you do, please let us know so that we may make adjustments to compensate with more or alternative bacteria (or avoid using them totally if they are not biodegradable). Keep grease from the kitchen OUT of the septic system. It is difficult to break down and might cause a blockage in your drain field. In order to dissolve these oils, there are currently no known solvents that are safe for use in groundwater. Chemical additions for septic tanks are not advised. Household systems cannot function properly if additives are used. In addition, excessive use of these chemicals may cause the waste from your toilet to be released into your septic tank, causing your system to fail prematurely. It is possible that some additives will damage your groundwater. In order for your septic system to function properly, no extra additives are required. Many of those that market their services as “solid waste removal” really deliver on their promises. During the solids removal process, the solids are transported to a disposal field. When the solids reach the disposal area, they shut up the space and cause the system to malfunction. Furthermore, although it is not harmful, it is not required to “seed” a new system with yeast or other organisms. Even routinely disposed of human waste includes enough bacteria to populate the septic tank, and other microorganisms are already in the soil and stones of the disposal region

Investigate Before You Invest

If you are considering purchasing a building lot for the construction of a new house, do your research beforehand. Depending on whether a public sewer system is accessible, you may be required to install a septic tank and soil treatment system (septic system) to treat and dispose of sewage from the residence you intend to construct on the property. If a septic system is required, the following actions should be taken before purchasing land:

Determine the types of soils that exist on the property
Investigate what sort of septic system, if any, will function properly on such soils. Inquire with your local health department about obtaining a septic system improvement permit (IP). Obtain an estimate for the cost of installing the type of septic system that you require. Find out what the system’s running needs are, as well as its maintenance expenses.

The majority of residences in rural and outer suburban regions rely on individual septic systems to dispose of their waste water and sewage. This system is normally comprised of a subterranean septic tank with a capacity of 1,000 gallons and a drainfield that may be accommodated inside the front yard or backyard of the homesite, depending on the situation. Water from the kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry area is discharged into the septic tank, where the particles are collected and disposed of as trash.

Unfortunately, not all soils are capable of absorbing or purifying wastewater.
The sewage may include germs and viruses that are lethal.

As a result, state law mandates that the local health department do a full soil and site examination in order to establish the appropriateness of the soils and topography of the lot.
If you are comparing a number of different lots, you must obtain a permission for each one.
In order to make an informed conclusion, you need speak with a competent consultant who has extensive knowledge in soils evaluation.

The steps listed below might assist you in screening the lots and determining their appropriateness. Before you make a decision, walk around each property and search for signs of soil issues or site limits that might impair the functioning of a septic system before making your investment.

Whether or whether there are gullies, ravines, overly steep slopes, or other topographic challenges that would make the installation of a system problematic
Is the area adjacent to a stream or river that has the potential to flood it
The property appears to be muddy and marshy

Does the site contain any wetlands that have been designated? Is it possible to obtain a map showing the extent of any designated wetlands on the property? Are there any rocky areas on the land? A septic tank system would be incompatible with bedrock because it would interfere with the installation and functioning of the system. The building lot should have adequate room for the house, septic system, and a water supply well (should one be required).

Your well, as well as all of your neighbors’ wells, should be at least 100 feet away from the septic system. In addition, there must be enough space to accommodate a “maintenance area,” which may be used in the event that the system requires extension or repair in the future. One acre of land with adequate soils and suitable terrain is typically considered to be the minimum required space. However, in areas where soil and site characteristics are less favorable, significantly bigger lots are typically required.

To learn more about the soils in your region, contact your county Extension office or the local soil and water conservation district (if one exists).

You may utilize this report to assist you in screening property parcels and concentrating your efforts on those lots that have the most ideal soil and site qualities, which will help you achieve your goals.
It should not be used as a substitute for an on-site study of soil and ground conditions.
A complete onsite examination must be carried out by the local health authorities to determine whether or not the property is suitable for a medical facility.

It is important to remember, however, that unsuitable soils and acceptable soils can coexist on the same parcel of land.
The standard septic system, which consists of a septic tank and a number of trenches that are sunk 2 to 3 feet deep, is installed on over half of the homesites in North Carolina that have septic systems.
These systems are quite affordable; the average installation cost ranges from $650 to $2,000, depending on where in the state you reside.

Alternative septic systems include low-pressure pipe (LPP) systems, fill systems, and other systems that have been expressly built for a particular use.

It is also possible that fill systems will be prohibitively expensive and impossible to implement.

Although there are many soils that are ideal for alternative septic systems, there are others that are not.

Make an application for an improvement permit with your local health department.

Inquire as to whether the permission will have an impact on the number of bedrooms that may be created in the home, as well as the location of the house, driveway, or the presence or absence of a swimming pool.

Additionally, you may decide to condition your sale on the issue of a permit for an approved type of wastewater treatment system (sewage treatment plant).

For additional information on the types of septic systems that are currently in use in your region, contact your local health authority.

A guide to Land Suitability for Septic Tank and Soil Treatment Systems explains how sewage effluent is cleansed in soils and how to evaluate the suitability of soils on your property for a sewage treatment system.

When evaluating the acquisition of a building lot, other information such as subdivision and land use rules, zoning, deed limitations, construction setbacks and ordinances, and financial information should be considered.

4 Things to Do When Your Septic Tank Is Flooded

If your neighborhood has recently been flooded or has been subjected to strong rains, you may discover that your toilet isn’t flushing properly and that your drains are draining more slowly than usual. It is possible that raw sewage will back up into your tub and sink drains. Drains that are slow or clogged may signal that the water table has risen over the level of your septic field and septic tank. If you believe that your septic system has been flooded, there are four things you should do immediately.

Check the level of groundwater in your area.
Septic tanks are typically located a few feet below the surface of the earth.

If you are aware of the location of your septic tank and drainfield, you should check the water level in the area to ensure that flooding is not a concern.
When there isn’t any evident standing water in the area, use a probe to check the water level or an auger to dig deep into the earth to find out how much water is there.
If your tests reveal that the water level is higher than the top of the septic tank, you should immediately cease utilizing the tank.

2.
Until the Ground Becomes Dry When you believe that your septic system has been flooded, contact a septic pumping specialist immediately; however, you must wait until the earth has become less soggy before having your tank drained.
If a septic tank is pumped out when the earth is saturated, it may potentially float out of its location.

Following a decrease in the water table level, it is necessary to pump your system as quickly as feasible.
3.
Approximately 70 gallons of water are flushed down the toilet per person every day in the average home.

The first step is to check for leaks in all of your fixtures. An inoperable toilet flapper or fill mechanism can leak up to 200 gallons per day, creating a backup of water that your flooded septic system doesn’t have room for. Other suggestions for keeping water out of the drains are as follows:

Prepare meals that don’t require cooking, such as sandwiches. Disposable flatware, such as paper plates and paper cups, should be used. Showers are preferable to baths because they are shorter. Save the rinse water and put it to good use on the plants. Only flush the toilet when absolutely essential

If your clothes washing machine drains into your main sewage line, it can cause a significant amount of water to be discharged into your septic system. Wash your garments at the laundry until the water table begins to fall below the surface. In the event that you must use the washing machine, wash only modest loads and wait a few hours between each load of laundry. 4. Make modifications to your septic system to make it more efficient. After your septic tank has been drained and your house drainage system has been restored to working order, you should make certain modifications to your system in order to minimize flooding problems in the future.

During a septic emergency, the backflow preventer prevents waste water from entering your home or building.

Also, check to be that your yard’s storm drainage does not overflow into your septic field and storage tank area.

When your septic system is inundated, call Eckmayer Inc right away.

5 Things Homeowners Should Know About Their Septic Drain Field

There are certain distinctions in care, usage, and budgeting that you should be aware of, whether you’re a new homeowner with an existing septic system or considering about purchasing or building a home without sewer hookups. This document outlines three ways in which your budget will be affected if your wastewater is treated using a septic system. 1. You will not be required to budget for municipal sewer service. Because the municipal wastewater system normally processes all of the water, the cost of city sewage service is sometimes determined by how much water you purchase from the city.

A large number of homes with septic systems also rely on wells for fresh water rather than municipal water, which means you’ll likely save money in that department as well.
It is necessary to include septic maintenance in your budget.
Although you are not required to pay the city for the usage of your septic system, you will be responsible for the costs of maintenance if you want the system to continue to function properly.

It is possible that these maintenance and repair expenditures will build up over time, so you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund to cover any unforeseen repair bills.
You’ll also need to budget for the cost of a single inspection and begin saving for the cost of a tank pump.
Spreading the expenditures out over several months is the most effective budgeting strategy, even for an expense such as tank pumping that does not occur every year, because it allows you to better estimate the costs ahead of time.

You may need to set aside money for septic tank replacement.

The tank and leach field may not need to be replaced if you have a reasonably recent septic system and plan to sell your home within a few years.

If, on the other hand, your home’s septic system is more than a decade old, you’ll want to start looking into how much a new system would cost you as soon as possible.

For example, if the previous owners did not do routine maintenance or if the system was installed on clay soil, the system may need to be replaced.

It is a prudent decision to begin putting money aside in anticipation of this eventuality.

When you have a septic system, you may use these three strategies to budget differently.

Make an appointment with us right away if you’re searching for someone to pump out your septic tank or to complete an annual examination of your septic system. Our experts at C.E. Taylor and Son Inc. would be happy to assist you with any septic system assessment, maintenance, or repair needs.

Protect your septic system from large party gatherings

Unexpected water inputs from bathroom use during a large party that has not been planned ahead of time can cause an unpleasant surprise for your guests. Photo by pixabay.com. Christmas and New Year’s Eve are two of the most popular times of the year for us to host guests, throw parties, and host social gatherings in our homes. If you live in a community that has sewer systems, this will not be an issue. If you have a septic system, this could present a problem. Considering the load on your septic system during any time of the year, whether it’s during the holidays, at a graduation, or at another gathering in your home, is important.

Septic tanks are built to suit the amount of bedrooms in a property and possibilities in flows.
This is large enough to accommodate normal inputs without stumbling.

Can your system handle the added load?
This would cause sewage blockages and raise the risk of discharging untreated effluent into your drain field.
Anaerobic microbes break down the waste products.

The drain field is designed to continue the breakdown process with aerobic microbes in the soil.
Solids flowing into the drain field fill up the pores in the soil reducing airspace and places for the microbes to live and thrive.

Inadequate preparation for additional water inputs from restroom use during a large party might result in a nasty surprise for your guests. Image courtesy of pixabay.com. Christmas and New Year’s Eve are two of the busiest times of the year for us, with guests, parties, and social events at our homes. If you reside in a neighborhood that has sewer systems, this will not be an issue for you. If you have a septic system, this can be an issue. Considering the strain on your septic system during any time of the year, whether it’s during the holidays, at a graduation, or at any other event in your house, is a good idea. Due to the fact that most septic service firms are closed on weekends and holidays, requiring septic tank pumping or a drain field breakdown during the holidays is an especially difficult time of year. Septic tanks are built to suit the number of bedrooms in a house as well as the possibility of inflowing waste. As a result, a typical home with one to three bedrooms is designed to accommodate four or five inhabitants and would contain a water tank that could hold up to 1000 gallons of water. When dealing with regular inputs, this is a good size. This impact would be magnified if there were a big number of people there. Is your system capable of handling the additional load? A huge amount of water created by a big number of visitors in a short period of time might possibly overrun the capacity of the tank and drain field in a septic system if it floods unexpectedly and quickly. This would result in sewage blockages as well as an increased danger of untreated effluent being flushed into your drainage system. In order for your septic tank or onsite waste water system to process and settle out the solid inputs, it will need around 24 hours. Anaerobic microorganisms are responsible for the breakdown of waste materials. Flooding your system with water minimizes or eliminates the amount of time required for settling and decomposing. The drain field is intended to aid in the breakdown process by allowing aerobic bacteria in the soil to continue working. As the water slowly flows back into the water cycle, the soil layers serve to filter it even more thoroughly. Because of the solids streaming into the drain field, airspace and locations for bacteria to dwell and grow are reduced in the soil, diminishing their ability to thrive. There are precautions you may take to reduce the impact of a party on your septic system. These include the following:

By anticipating your guests’ water consumption in advance, you may have a stress-free Christmas party without having to worry about a septic situation arising. MSU Extension Educator Beth Clawson can be contacted for additional information about the Michigan Septic System Education program. Educators from Michigan State University ExtensionNatural Resources are available to answer questions regarding water quality and provide instructional programming and support to residents around the state.

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You Might Also Be Interested In

Yes and no, to be honest. Normal washing machine use will not harm your septic system, however it is possible to cause damage to your system by making typical errors while using your washing machine. Fortunately, by following five basic guidelines, you can ensure that your septic system is properly maintained and that you avoid making costly mistakes. 5 Tips for Keeping Your Septic System Running at Peak Performance 1. Don’t save all of your loads for one day; spread them out. Multiple loads should be spread out over several days in order to lessen pressure on your septic system and drainfield.

The high volumes of water generated by many washing loads might spell disaster following heavy rains, causing your soil to get saturated above its maximum saturation capacity.

When you’re doing numerous loads of laundry, the cost may rapidly mount up.
Instead of powdered detergent, use liquid detergent.
Clay, a frequent filler, has the potential to do significant damage to a properly working drainfield.

3.
The use of normal amounts of bleach and detergents is safe for your septic system to handle.
The importance of beneficial microorganisms cannot be overstated.

Install a lint filter on the discharging water line of your washing machine to trap excess lint and keep it from entering your septic system, which can cause problems.

Lint is a typical source of serious obstructions and back-ups in plumbing systems.

Generally speaking, filthy clothing are acceptable.

A substantial amount of surplus soil entering your septic system should be avoided at all costs.

Observing these five basic guidelines can help to ensure that your septic system is safe, efficient, and worry-free. If you ever have a problem, you may contact Stamie E. Lyttle Co. by clicking on the link below, which is available 24/7 – 365!

Elevated Sand Mounds for On-lot Wastewater Treatment

In many parts of Pennsylvania, soils feature layers, known as limitation zones, that are less than 60 inches deep inside the soil profile, indicating that they are shallow. An on-lot sewage limitation zone is defined by the Pennsylvania On-Lot Sewage Regulations as either bedrock or an impermeable soil layer as well as a high water table (including a seasonal high water table) or a layer with insufficient particles to appropriately treat the effluent. Because of limiting zones within the top 60 inches of some soils, it is not practicable to supply 48 inches of appropriate soil between the bottom of an in-ground absorption region and the top of the limiting zone in these soil types.

This allows for on-site treatment of wastewater in soils with between 20 and 60 inches of suitable soil available above the limiting zone.

Elevated sand mounds are only permitted on locations with slopes of no more than 15%, according to the regulations.

Effective mound treatment systems rely on correct placement, design, construction, and maintenance.

Distribution System

Layers within the soil profile that are less than 60 inches deep may be found in many sections of Pennsylvania’s soils, which are known as limitation zones. On-lot sewage rules in Pennsylvania define a limiting zone as bedrock, an impermeable soil layer, a high water table, a seasonal high water table, or a layer that does not contain enough particles to appropriately treat the effluent. It is not possible to supply 48 inches of acceptable soil between the bottom of an in-ground absorption region and the top of a limiting zone in soils that have limiting zones within the top 60 inches of their soil profile.

Effluent treatment has been demonstrated to be good with the elevated sand mound, a manmade mound of sandy fill material placed on top of the natural or prevailing soil layer ranging from 20 to 60 inches thick.

In addition, the Perc Rate must be between 3 and 180 minutes per inch in order to be acceptable.

Site Selection and Preparation

Attempt to locate the sand mound on a flat portion of a hilltop or on a generally level long and narrow stretch of ground. You should not let the construction of the sand mound until the soil is sufficiently dry to do so. Construction equipment moving over the site will compress the soil, limit its infiltration rate, and degrade soil structure, resulting in unsatisfactory performance if the soil is too moist (too wet for tillage). To begin, remove all vegetation by cutting it flush with the soil surface or flush with the ground surface.

It is not recommended that you attempt to remove the roots. A chisel plow or equivalent device should be used to rough or plow the absorption area to a maximum depth of 6 inches, parallel to the contour, before the last step is completed. It is not permitted to use a rotary tiller.

Mound Construction

You are now ready to begin constructing the mound. The size of the mound is determined by the projected daily flows of the system as well as the Perc Rate of the soil. Traditional in-ground absorption systems are approximately the same size as sand mound absorption areas, which range from 600 to 1,500 square feet for a three-bedroom home on average. Due to the fact that the absorption region is elevated and surrounded by a berm, the overall sand mound area will be significantly bigger than the actual absorption area of the berm.

It is necessary to utilize a minimum of 12 inches of sand.
For example, if the depth to the limiting zone is 20 inches, the minimum depth of sand at the upslope border of the absorption region must be 28 inches; the depth of soil plus this minimum depth of sand equals 48 inches; the depth of soil plus this minimum depth of sand = 48 inches.
There must always be a minimum of 48 inches of sand and soil above the limiting zone in order for it to be effective.

A regular flow of effluent through the sand and soil beneath the mound is enhanced as a result of this.
As indicated in Figure 1, there are two feet of horizontal drop for every foot of vertical decline.
The sand provider should give a “spec” document for the sand that shows that each load has been reviewed and authorized.
Figure 1 illustrates how this berm will hold the sand and aggregate in place.

The distribution manifold and laterals are installed first, followed by 6 inches of aggregate, followed by enough aggregate to give 2 inches of cover over the pipe system, according to some installers.

laterals in the absorption area may be located up to 6 feet apart, and each lateral must have a sequence of holes spaced 6 feet apart and looking downhill on either side of it.

Laterals must be teed to both sides of the manifold at the same time.

When a dosage pump is used, the minimum hole size must be 14 inches, and when a siphon is used, the minimum hole size must be 5/16 inch.

In order to prevent damage from animals or machinery, they can (and should) be installed flush with the final grass surface.

After the aggregate and distribution pipes have been installed, cover the aggregate with a separation layer of untreated building paper, 2 inches of straw, or a geotextile to prevent backfill soil from settling downward into and clogging the aggregate.

It is required that the berm surrounding the perimeter of the mound extend at least 3 feet outward in all directions from where the top of the aggregate layer is located. The berm should have a side slope of 2(H):1(V) and be constructed of clean topsoil that is free of rocks, debris, and plants.

General Tips for Constructing Elevated Sand Mounds

Construction should be avoided on damp soil in order to decrease compaction and spreading. During building, use low-load, tracked construction equipment and always retain a layer of sand between the vehicle and the ground. The sand, berm soil, and aggregate from the upslope side should be added. Maintain complete separation between all equipment and vehicles from the absorption area at all times. At all times, keep all equipment and vehicles away from the undisturbed area down slope of the high sand mound. Lightly compress the berm to prevent lateral flow from occurring.

Avoiding Unsatisfactory Performance in Mound Systems

In the right location and with the right design, construction, and maintenance, elevated sand mounds may provide a lifetime of dependable on-lot wastewater treatment for a small investment. Overloading of the hydraulic system, induced by high water use in the residence and inadequate placement, is the most typical cause of sand mound breakdowns. Hydraulic overloading is often manifested by the appearance of water at the toe of the mound or the eruption of water on top. The following procedures can help to lessen the likelihood of unsatisfactory performance in a sand mound:

Reduce water use in the home by creating a culture of conservation. Ensure that the pump station and mound are checked for faults at least once every six months. Surface runoff water and roof downspouts should be diverted away from the mound. Reduce the amount of foot traffic on the mound and in the region downslope from the mound
And Continue to keep all vehicle traffic off the mound and away from the area downslope from the mound. Drain and pump the septic and dose tanks at least every two years. Planting grass on the sand mound can help to avoid erosion of the soil. Planting deep-rooted or water-loving plants and trees on or near the sand mound is not recommended.

For additional assistance contact

The following resources are available: your local Sewage Enforcement Officer
Your County Extension Educator
Pennsylvania Association of Sewage Enforcement Officers (PASEO)4902 Carlisle pike268 Mechanicsburg, PA 17050 Telephone: 717-761-8648
Pennsylvania Septage Management Association (PSMA)Box 144 Bethlehem, PA 18016 Phone: 717-763-PSMA
Pennsylvania Association of Sewage Enforcement Officers (PASEO)4902 Carlisle pi

Can You Put Dirt on Top of a Sunken Drain Field?

The principal method of disposing of home wastewater in many regions outside of the reach of municipal sewage systems is through septic systems. It is possible to temporarily disguise a problem by putting dirt on top of a leach field; however, the true answer to mending the system involves thorough examination and cleaning, as well as repairs or replacement of faulty components. While a freshly built tank may sink and require a little amount of more dirt to level the grass, the drain field should not require any additional material to be added on top of the soil already present.

Tip

A freshly built septic system may require an additional inch or two of earth as it settles into the landscape, but an existing system should not have dirt put over the drain field to prevent it from failing.

About Septic Systems

Homes constructed outside of towns and cities with a municipal sewer system must be equipped with a means of securely disposing of wastewater generated by sinks, showers, toilets, and clothes washers. An effective septic system is almost always the solution. In addition to the tank, which holds the solids and first rush of wastewater, a septic system includes a drain field, also known as a leach field or leach lines, which transports the water away from the house and allows it to soak into the soil.

The grease builds up to the top of the tank.

InspectionAPedia states that up to 36 inches of loose dirt is put over the top of the gravel and pipelines.

Aside from that, surplus water evaporates from the drain field, so leaving the impurities in its wake.

Sinking Soil and New Installations

The soil around and above the tank, as well as the pipes going to the drain field, may settle once a new septic system is installed. It is possible for the soil to get sunken even after it has been well tamped because of the weight of the tank, which might occur after heavy rains or spring thaws. Although covering the inspection and access ports with a few inches of earth to smooth over any uneven places would not harm the septic tank, you should avoid doing so in the future. The drain field, on the other hand, is a different story.

Don’t add any more dirt to the field since it will interfere with the evaporation of any extra water that has collected there.

There is only one exception: if rainfall is puddled on top of the drainage field. The University of Nebraska-Lincolnrecommends putting a little amount of dirt to shallow depressions in order to prevent puddles from accumulating.

Septic Drain Field Sinking

If the sunken area is more like a drain field sinkhole than a sunken region, you may need to have the perforated pipes repaired or replaced, whether they are new or old. The worst-case situation is that the drain field has failed completely and completely. A simple filling up of the sunken portions with soil or gravel will not resolve the issue. It will be necessary to either repair or replace the drain field. It’s possible that a vehicle was driven over the drain field and smashed the pipes, preventing the wastewater from draining all the way to the end of the leach lines and into the sewer system.

Eventually, a piece of the septic system may actually sink, or the soil may wash away, giving the area a sunken appearance.

Compacted soil obstructs this natural process and can result in sinking, wastewater discharge, and pollution of groundwater and neighboring wells, among other consequences.

In addition, only waste water and toilet paper should be flushed down the toilet.