How Many Hatches For My Septic Tank? (Best solution)

Can you build a hatch for a septic tank?

  • There’s nothing special about them, though there are a few construction tricks I learned that will help you get them built quickly and properly. Although you can sometimes buy precast concrete access hatches for the top of septic tanks, they’re heavy and not available everywhere. Instead.

How many septic tank risers do I need?

A single riser is required for accessing the pump chamber for this type of system. If you don’t have two additional risers, you should locate your septic tank and install risers for both the inlet and outlet openings, as described above.

Can septic tanks have only one lid?

A septic tank installed before 1975 will have a single 24-inch concrete lid in the center of the rectangle. A two-compartment tank installed after 1975 will have two lids of either fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at opposite ends of the rectangle.

How many lids should a concrete septic tank have?

Two or three lids may be included in your system. The average size of a sewage tank is approximately 5 feet by 8 feet. The lid is buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground in most cases.

How far apart are my septic tank lids?

The distance between lids will be different for each sized tank: 1000 gallon tank = 6-6.5 ft.; 1250 gallon = 7-7.5 ft.; 1500 gallon = 8.5-9 ft.. Dig up the outlet chamber access lid. If you are extraordinarily lucky, the as-built drawing is accurate and you have hit the lids spot on.

Should I install a riser on my septic tank?

Having a riser in place can also significantly reduce the cost of septic tank maintenance over time through the ease of access and time on the job saved. Plus you will be spared digging up your lawn every time as well.

Should septic tank riser be above ground?

Landscaping Around Septic Tank Risers However, septic tank risers should never be buried. Instead, they should be 2 inches above final grade to prevent groundwater from entering the system.

How do I know my septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

  1. Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
  2. Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
  3. Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
  4. You Hear Gurgling Water.
  5. You Have A Sewage Backup.
  6. How often should you empty your septic tank?

Do all septic tanks have two compartments?

Most septic tanks have one or two compartments. Two compartment tanks, or two single compartment tanks in series, provide better settling of the solids. Each septic tank has an inspection port over each baffle as well as a manhole access port. The manhole lid needs to be accessed for the tank to be pumped.

Do you need to pump both sides of a septic tank?

Septic tanks installed after the late 1980s have two compartments, and it is important to pump out both compartments each time. Most homeowners are unaware when their septic tank has two compartments; some companies use that to their advantage, charging to pump both sides of the tank but only actually pumping out one.

How do I know if my septic tank has two lids?

You will be looking for 2 lids like these if there are risers to surface on the tank. If the tank is not risered, you will find 2-24” diameter concrete lids like the picture below. Riser lids the can be below the surface which will require locating and digging the riser lids as well.

Why do septic tanks have two compartments?

Septic tanks may have one or two compartments. Two-compartment tanks do a better job of set- tling solids and are required for new systems. Tees or baffles are provided at the tank’s inlet and outlet pipes. The inlet tee slows the incom- ing wastes and reduces disturbance of the settled sludge.

Septic Tank Access Hatch

I’d want to make a personal confession. I haven’t always done a good job of keeping my septic tank in good condition. As far as cathartic public remorse goes, this may not be sufficient to earn me a spot on Oprah, but it is a shortcoming that many Canadian homeowners share. My husband and I are chronic septic neglecters, and I don’t believe it is mostly due to the high cost of a pump-out every two or three years. Getting that dreaded tank open before hearing the beep-beep warning sound of the septic truck backing up to conduct its filthy business is more likely to be the source of the problem.

Septic tanks must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to eliminate the indigestible particles of debris that accumulate at the bottom of the tank during the usual course of business.

The result is that most if not all the lumps are transformed into liquid, which then runs out through a network of perforated pipes that distributes waste into soil in the leaching bed.

Two things happen as a result of the little amount of indigestible material that accumulates at the bottom of the tank.

  • Second, when the sludge level rises, it may ultimately reach a level where it begins to flow out into the leaching bed as well, causing contamination.
  • Both of these scenarios result in a clogged system and sewage backup.
  • Given these realities, as well as the potential of a septic system rebuild that might cost thousands of dollars, it is difficult to argue against the necessity of septic maintenance and repair.
  • The majority of tanks are built a foot or two below ground level and covered with sod, which creates an issue.
  • And after that, your grass will appear unkempt for a year or two.
  • You might not begin excavating your septic tank with the same conviction that you will wind up with, but you will almost certainly arrive at that conclusion.
  • However, there are a few building tips that I learnt that will assist you in getting them made fast and correctly.
  • Instead.
  • Anyone who is comfortable with tools may simply construct them, and they can be readily customized to the level of soil above your septic tank to meet your specific needs.
  • I used a liberal bead of construction glue to fix each box to the top of the septic tank, applying it all around the bottom edge of the timber.
  • Fill up the holes with backfill and re-establish grass around the spot for the very last time in your life, and you’ll be finished.

When your conscience starts nagging you to have your septic tank pumped out, it will literally be a question of picking up the phone and writing a check to the appropriate company. Due to the ease with which the access boxes are used, the septic contractor may complete the entire project on his own.

Installing Access Hatches

Each and every septic tank is equipped with a cover, however tanks are nearly always placed below ground level. For pump-outs and inspections, you used to have to dig down into the dirt to reach the access hatches of your tank, which was a time-consuming process that many people put off. The inconvenience of this work is one of the reasons why people don’t get pump-outs done on a regular basis. The process of locating the tank, taking out dirt from above the hatches, and then replenishing the soil and re-establishing grass is simply too time-consuming.

  1. There are a few of options for accomplishing this.
  2. After passing through the riser, the tank is reached, where there may or may not be a second cover over the tank body itself.
  3. It is normally possible to retrofit risers and ground-level covers into a plastic septic tank that does not have them originally utilizing hardware from the tank manufacturer.
  4. Riser systems for concrete septic tanks are not often included with the tank when it leaves the manufacturer, but they can be constructed by the homeowner if they wish to avoid digging down to their septic tank in the future.
  5. My initial set of risers and lids were built of pressure-treated timber, but they rotted away after only ten years of use.
  6. Wood is a fantastic alternative as long as you use wood that is guaranteed not to decay under any conditions whatsoever.
  7. The majority of the time, this is how access hatches for septic tanks are constructed at home.
  8. Photograph courtesy of Steve Maxwell As a result, I’ve replaced the old rotted wood with concrete risers that I put in place on top of the tank, with a patio slab serving as a cover on top of that.
  9. If you have any prior expertise mixing and pouring concrete, I strongly advise you to go with this choice.

Concrete risers not only make entry to the tank quick and easy, but they also prevent roots from penetrating your tank via the lids. No amount of effort can penetrate the barrier between the concrete riser and the top of the tank. This is true even for the eager roots of deciduous trees.

VIDEO 7: How to Make Concrete Tank Risers

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located. A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

Installation of the septic tank takes place along the sewage line that runs from the house into the front yard. Locate the 4-inch sewage pipe at the point where it exits the home in the basement or crawl space, if it is there. Locate the same spot outside and make a note of it. Insert a thin metal probe into the earth, identify the 4-inch sewage line, and follow it across the yard, probing every 2 feet, until you reach the end of the property. Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet apart from the home in all states except Alaska.

Whenever the probe makes contact with flat concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene it indicates that the tank has been located.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

It should be possible to uncover the lid or lids by digging with a spade in specific spots, depending on when year the tank was constructed.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

Tank Types Express Septic Service

Septic tanks should be cleaned every 3 to 5 years, depending on the size of the household and how much water is used. When the septic tank is pump out on a regular basis, it will help to reduce the buildup of scum and sludge layers in the tank. Ideally, the scum layer should not be more than 24 inches thick. If the material is deeper than 24 inches, it will flow down the outflow pipe and into the drainfield, plugging up the drainfield and resulting in drainfield failure. In order to get your septic tank cleaned, you must first locate the main compartment2nd compartment lid of the septic tank and remove it.

The position of a septic tank lid and the number of lids on a tank varies depending on the year it was placed and the manufacturer.

If you prefer not to find and excavate the Septic Tank lids yourself, or if you are unsure of where the lids are placed, Express Septic Service may assist you with this task.

When looking at an as-built, keep in mind that it will only show the overall placement of the sewage system components, not the actual location of the septic tanks.

Septic Diagrams:

1000 Gallon Septic Tanks: This tank design, which was in use from around 1976 to present, will have one main lid and two smaller baffle covers on either end of the tank, as seen in the diagram below.

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Two Compartment

From late 1976 until the present, a septic tank layout of 1125-1200 gallons was erected. It is possible for this tank to have two main 24′′ lids or two main lids and two little baffle lids at both ends of the tank right above the inlet and output baffles, depending on the manufacturer. If there are risers to the surface of the tank, you will be searching for two lids that look like this.

If the tank is not risered, you will discover concrete lids with a diameter of 2-24″, as seen in the figure below. Riser lids can be located below the surface of the ground, which will need the discovery and excavation of the riser lids.

Holding Tank

As an alternative to the traditional on-site sewage system, it is a good option. A holding tank is not the same thing as a septic tank. A holding tank is used to retain household waste and prevents any of its contents from leaking into a drainfield, whereas a septic tank is used to enable waste water to flow into a drain field. Concrete, fiberglass, and polyethylene can all be used to construct holding tanks. Depending on the location, holding tanks can be constructed above or below ground. Holding tanks must be pumped on a regular basis, depending on the amount of water and waste water used, as well as the size of the tank.

In the event that a holding tank is not properly pumped, waste water will back up into the home or spill onto the ground.

Pump Tank

Some homes may be equipped with a pump tank or a pump basin in addition to a septic tank. Typically, pump tanks are located underground near the septic tank; however, depending on the year the system was established, risers to the surface may be present, allowing for simple access to examine and repair the effluent pump for maintenance or if the pump has stopped operating. Before the effluent is pumped to the drainfield region, it is collected in a pump tank or basin from a septic tank or ATU (Alternative Treatment Unit).

It is necessary to configure the control floats such that a certain volume of effluent is discharged to the drainfield.

The pump then works to bring the level of wastewater back down until it reaches that of the off float setting.

When the alarm goes off, there is enough reserve storage in the pump tank to allow the homeowner to consume only a little amount of water until the problem with the system can be resolved and the alert turned off.

Aerobic Treatment Unit (ATU)

In some cases, an alternate treatment system may be used in place of a typical septic tank and gravel trenched drainfield, such as in cases of poor soil drainage, small lot size, or environmental concerns. The majority of alternative treatment systems are comprised of a multi compartmented tank known as an Aerobic Treatment Unit, or ATU for short. The majority of ATUs are divided into three compartments: a “waste” compartment, an aeration chamber, and a clarifying chamber. The trash compartment contains solids used in the pretreatment and liquification of garbage, as well as non-waste incidental products that are flushed down the toilet and into the drain.

  • Clearing the effluent further improves its clarity since the leftover particles are allowed to settle in the clarifying chamber.
  • These components are intended to kill bacteria and pathogens before the effluent is discharged into the drainfield.
  • All of these models have undergone extensive testing before being certified.
  • These can range from gravity to pressure distribution to Glendon mounds to sand filters to drip irrigation.
  • For any routine operation and maintenance inspections or services, a Health Department Certified Operation and Maintenance Specialist will be required, and some manufacturers may require you to be certified by their firm in order to conduct these services.

As previously said, it is important to have these sorts of systems monitored on a regular basis and fixed as needed in order to maintain correct performance and to keep your system free of problems.

Restaurant Grease Trap

Almost every food service facility that serves food and washes dishes, including restaurants, cafés, coffee shops, delicatessens and bakeries (among others), will have an interior grease trap located near the sinks to collect grease from the sinks. They are available in sizes ranging from 20 to 50 gallons. Fatty acids, oils, and grease (FOG) are prevented from entering your drain pipe by a grease trap, which is a chambered compartment. Grease flows into the trap, enabling the grease to solidify and float to the top of the trap while weighted solids fall to the bottom of the trap, allowing the liquid to flow out via the drain pipes and into the septic tank or into the city sewage.

Grease Tank Interceptor Service

A grease interceptor is a huge tank that may be situated outside of the structure on the ground level. They can range in size from a few hundred gallons to several thousand gallons. You will need two tanks if you have an exterior tank. The first tank will be a grease trap (tank), which will hold grease until it is removed. The garbage from the restrooms will be disposed of in a tank that is specifically dedicated for this purpose; if the facility is on sewer, the waste will be disposed of in the city sewage.

In addition to a simple cleaning rooter service utilizing an electric snake, we also provide hydro-jetting, which uses high pressure water to break away hardened grease and keep the drain from backing up.

What you should expect when your septic tank needs pumping

The following are general recommendations: It is advised that you pump your septic tank every two to three years. The frequency with which you pump is determined by the volume of water you utilize. Generally speaking, the more individuals that use your septic system, the greater the increase in water flow. As a result, your septic tank will fill up more quickly, necessitating more regular pumping. It is likely that the septic tank will need to be pumped more frequently than every two to three years.

Choosing a certified pumper

General guidelines; It is advised that you pump your septic tank every 2 – 3 years to ensure that it is functioning properly. Depending on how much water you consume, you’ll need to pump more or less frequently. Generally speaking, the more people who use your septic system, the greater the amount of water that flows through it, causing your septic tank to fill up more quickly and necessitating more pumping. In some cases, septic tanks may require pumping more frequently than every two to three years.

  1. What is the approximate cost of the pump-out
  2. And Will additional gallons be charged if the septic tank has a capacity more than 1,000 gallons? Is it included in this price the expense of excavating to expose the septic tank lid(s)
  3. If not, do you charge by the foot or by the meter? How much do you charge to dig you out if you don’t have one
  4. Is there a charge for dumping costs included? Was it determined that this fee includes a visual check of the septic tank’s entrance and exit baffles? Do you charge an additional fee for cleaning the filter baffle? If a tank has not been properly maintained, is there an additional price for the additional water and time necessary to pump it out? (for example, pumped on a regular basis)
  5. Please specify the distance and elevation to where the Pumper’s vehicle will be stationed if you have a long distance to pump or if you will be pumping up a steep hill (for example, in your driveway or in the yard). The Pumper will decide whether or not the vehicle is capable of providing this sort of service. Is pumping the pump tank a frequent component of your routine maintenance? What is the cost of providing this service? It is recommended that a pump tank be pumped in addition to the septic tank, cleaned with water, and then dried with a blow dryer. If the pump tank is extremely full, you may be subject to an additional price.

Locating the septic tank

Once you’ve decided on a Pumper, you’ll need to locate the septic tank on your property. Most Pumpers will charge you for the time it takes to locate the tank and open the septic tank lid (s). You can perform the necessary work to expose the septic tank lid(s) prior to the arrival of the Pumper. In order to make septic tank pumping and inspection trips easier and less time-consuming, the Ohio Department of Public Health advises that you install “risers.” With locking gas tight lids linked to both the tank and the riser and access raised to the surface, there is no digging required every time the septic tank needs to be pumped.

The majority of septic system pumpers will be able to do this service for you.

Both compartments must be examined and pumped in order to meet the requirements.

The location of your septic tank will be straightforward if you have an as-built (a map of your septic system) for your system.

Find and download a copy of your as-built drawing from the internet. The following talents will be required by you or your Pumper if an as-built is not available: investigation

  • If there is a crawl space, you may be able to locate the tank by determining where the plumbing exits the foundation wall and then using a probing bar to locate it. If you have a fiberglass or polyethylene tank, a probe bar is not suggested unless extreme caution is exercised when using the probe bar. Probing will only be effective if the tank is not more than 1 to 2 feet below the surface of the ground
  • If there is no crawl space available, you may occasionally discover the tank by looking for the plumbing vents in the roof. A person who is walking behind the home and coming from a restroom can find themselves at the exit point of the sewage line that connects to the septic tank

Using an electronic detecting equipment may be essential if none of the above mentioned approaches prove successful. Some rental services contain a transmitter that may be flushed down the toilet and is detected by a receiving unit, which can be found in some rental services. In certain cases, drainfield location is the specialty of septic system contractors. See a list of septic system installers who are certified. As long as the tank is exposed, sketch a map depicting the location of the septic tank lid(s) in relation to the home and make a copy of the map for your records.

Pumping the septic tank

Before the Pumper begins the process of pumping out the tank, you may request that he measure the thickness of the scum and sludge layer layers on the inside of the tank. Using this method, you can determine the pace at which the particles collect in the tank, which will assist you in determining when it is necessary to have the septic tank pumped again. Pumping frequency will be in the range of 2 to 3 years for the vast majority of families. It doesn’t matter how often you pump your septic system; frequent inspections will provide you peace of mind that everything is in working order inside those tanks.

The septic tank Pumper should present you with a receipt that details the services that were done to your tank.

  • The company’s name, address, and phone number
  • Pumper’s certification number
  • Number of gallons that were pumped in an approximate manner the number of compartments that have been pumped In good working order, the tank baffles In-tact condition of the septic tank
  • Provide specifics on any work performed on baffles or access lids. This information should be included on the pump receipt if the scum and sludge layers were measured. Any work done on the septic tank or pump tank should be documented. Any additional service work that is completed

Septic System Guide: How It Works and How to Maintain It

As soon as you flush the toilet in most metropolitan locations, the waste is pumped out to the nearest sewage treatment facility. Garbage is processed at this factory, which separates it into two types of waste: water that is clean enough to be dumped into a river and solids known as residual waste. The remaining material is either disposed of in landfill or utilized as fertilizer. Septic systems, which are used in places where there aren’t any sewage treatment plants, provide a similar function, but on a much smaller scale.

What are Septic Tanks and How Do They Work?

Septic tanks are normally composed of concrete or heavyweight plastic and have a capacity of 1000 to 2000 gallons, depending on the manufacturer. In the tank, there are two chambers that are divided by a portion of a wall. The waste from the residence is channeled into the bigger room. Solids sink to the bottom of the chamber, and liquids make their way through a partial wall into the smaller second chamber, which is located above it. Anaerobic bacteria, which are found naturally in the environment, digest the solids and convert them into water, carbon dioxide, and a tiny amount of indigestible debris.

Septic Fields Distribute Liquid Effluent

The second chamber has an output pipe via which the liquid (known as effluent) from the tank is discharged to a disposal or leach field, depending on the situation. It is drained into the earth by a network of perforated pipes or through perforated plastic structures known as galleries, which are constructed of perforated plastic. It is common practice to lay the pipe or galleries in a bed of gravel, which aids in dispersing the liquid. During the course of the effluent’s percolation through the soil, the soil absorbs remaining bacteria and particles, resulting in water that is safe to drink by the time the water reaches the aquifer deeper down.

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They are not much deeper than that since a large quantity of water escapes through evaporation or is transpired by grass growing above ground.

If you have sandy soils that drain too rapidly, you may not be able to treat the wastewater properly.

Sometimes the water cannot be disposed of properly because the natural soils include a high concentration of silt or clay.

Topsoil and grass are applied to the mound, which allows more water to leave through transpiration and evaporation than would otherwise be possible.

Septic Systems Rely on Gravity, Most of the Time

The majority of septic systems rely on gravity to transfer the liquid from the home to the tank and then to the field where it will be disposed of. However, due to the slope of the land, the tank or the field may need to be higher than the house in some instances. It is necessary to have a pump, or occasionally two pumps, in order for this to operate. A grinder pump, which liquefies sediments and is installed in a pit in the basement or crawlspace of the home, will be used if the tank is higher than the house.

Sewage pumps are essentially large sump pumps that are used for heavy-duty applications.

How to Treat Your Septic System

It is not necessary to do much to keep your septic system in good working order, other than cut the grass above it and keep the drainage area free of trees and plants with roots that may block it.

How Often Do You Need to Pump A Septic Tank?

You should have a septic provider pump out the particles from your tank every two years, at the absolute least. A manhole at the surface of the tank will provide the pump operator access, but older systems may necessitate digging a hole in the tank’s top so the pumping hatch can be exposed. Unless the tank is continuously pumped, sediments will build up in it and ultimately make their way into the leach field, clogging it. You’ll know it’s occurring because untreated effluent will rise to the surface of the tank and back up into the home, causing it to overflow.

Pumping the tank on a regular basis can ensure that the leach fields continue to work eternally.

What to Do if Your Septic System Fails

Pumps in a pumped septic system will ultimately fail, just as they will in any mechanical system. Most pumps are equipped with an alarm that sounds when the effluent level in the pit is greater than it should be, indicating that the pump has failed and has to be replaced. This is a job that should be left to the professionals. Visit the following website to locate a trusted list of installation and septic system service companies in your area:

  • The National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association’s Septic Locator
  • The National Association of Wastewater Technicians
  • And the National Association of Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association

It is rare for a homeowner to have to worry about their septic system because it is well-maintained and doesn’t cause problems. Simple maintenance, such as keeping the tank pumped and the lawn trimmed, should result in decades of trouble-free service. What kind of protection do you have in place for your home’s systems and appliances against unforeseen maintenance needs? If this is the case, you might consider purchasing a house warranty.

  • Home Warranty Coverage for Roof Leaks
  • Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs
  • And more. Plans for protecting your mobile home’s warranty
  • What Is Home Repair Insurance and How Does It Work? How to Find the Most Reasonably Priced Home Appliance Insurance

What do I do if My Septic Alarm is Going Off?

In the event that your septic alarm goes off, it may surely create some anxiety and uncertainty; and if you happen to be experiencing this right now, then you’ve arrived to the correct location! Don’t be concerned; it does not necessitate urgent action. Instead, take your time to go through this full essay so that you will be prepared to act now or in the future if the situation arises. What Septic Systems Are and How They Work The alarm works in conjunction with the septic system to alert you when the water level within the pump tank has increased to an unsafe level or has decreased to an unsafe level.

The timer is in charge of regulating the time intervals during which the pump is permitted to pump wastewater into the drainage system.

Thus, during periods of excessive water use, the drain field is kept from getting overflowing, which might cause damage to the drainage system.

A large amount of water is injected into the system in between pumping cycles for whatever cause, and the water has nowhere else to go but back into the system’s pump tank.

Depending on how much water was and continues to be put into the system and how the pump is set up to operate on a timer, it may take many pumping cycles until the water levels are returned to normal. Causes of the alarm going off in the first place

  1. There is an excessive amount of water being put into the septic system. This is the result of excessive water use, which might be caused by multiple loads of laundry, an excessive quantity of dishwashing, or a disproportionate number of long showers.
  1. Somehow, groundwater is making its way into the system. If there is an excessive amount of standing water surrounding the septic tanks, whether generated by rain or another source, the water may seep into the tanks and cause the internal water level to rise.
  1. It’s possible that one of the components of the septic system is malfunctioning. If anything goes wrong with your system — including the pump and floats — the alarm and timer will go off and the septic system will stop working correctly.

An issue with one of the components of the septic system might be present, for example. Anything, including the pump, floats, alarm, and timer, might be defective, causing the septic system to malfunction and fail to function correctly.

Septic Systems – 95033 – LocalWiki

In the mountains, almost every residence is connected to an individual septic system, which is normally placed on your land and is owned by you. Typically, septic systems are comprised of two parts: the septic tank and the leach fields. The tank is a concrete or composite vault that is located below and accepts raw sewage from your home through the sewer pipe. A biological operation takes place, and the sewage is transformed into a liquid known as “effluent,” which is discharged through an underground overflow pipe.

  1. Over time, the septic tank overflow is filtered by the leach field rocks, decomposes further, becomes harmless, and leaches out of the trench via the sides and bottom of the excavation.
  2. Every septic tank is equipped with one or two lids – also known as hatches – that provide access to the tank’s interior.
  3. You should be aware of where the hatches for your septic tank are located so that if there is a problem, the pumping firm will not have to spend a lot of time finding them when they come.
  4. Vents in the form of 4″ diameter PVC pipes that protrude vertically out of the ground at one end of newer leach lines are common in newer leach lines.
  5. When two leach lines are installed together, one might take over when the first one reaches the end of its life or operate as an overflow when the first one fails.

Preventive Measures

It is best not to flush strong chemicals (bleach, paint, etc.) down the toilet since they can kill the bacteria that is functioning in the tank. Keep in mind that flushing anything that will not disintegrate, such as feminine hygiene products, is not a good idea. It has been suggested that garbage disposals are not recommended for use with septic tanks, or that they should be used only when absolutely necessary. Objects that are ground up by a disposal system must be tiny enough to degrade quickly, at the very least.

If you use a supplement of this nature, make sure to follow the instructions that come with it on how often to incorporate it into your system.

Some of the lint will not disintegrate and will ultimately end up in the leach field, clogging the system.

In the event that they get clogged, some do not provide an overflow, which might result in back pressure on your machine’s discharge pump. Before purchasing a gadget of this nature, do some research.

Maintenance and Cleaning

Although there isn’t a lot of direct care required, it is a good idea to have the tank pumped out and examined on a regular basis. The frequency with which the system requires this treatment is determined by the volume of sewage created by your residence and the materials that are introduced into the system. Following the preventative steps outlined above, you may be able to go longer between septic tank pumpings; nonetheless, septic tank pumping firms normally recommend a time of 2 – 5 years between cleanings.

  1. As an added benefit of having the tank emptied, it can only be assessed for faults after the tank has been completely emptied.
  2. The pumping business will need to drive a huge vehicle within 100-200 feet to your tank hatches in order to do their service.
  3. Once the tank is empty, they will evaluate the system for faults and, if any are discovered, they will submit a report with the county in where you reside, indicating the date the system was inspected and any concerns that were discovered.
  4. If you are having work done on your house, such as renovating or adding an addition, the county may demand that you have a current septic inspection on file (typically within the previous three years).
  5. Additionally, adding extra bedrooms may need the expansion of your tank and leach fields in order to accommodate the increased number of people who may be living in your home as a result of the addition.
  6. Because of the buildup of lint and other non-dissolvable objects in the field, effluent will be unable to percolate into the soil, and will begin to leak out at the surface.
  7. For this reason, most homes constructed to code will have an alternate leach field location* noted on the original drawings to prepare for the possibility of flooding.
  8. Again, everything is dependent on the application and soil conditions.
  9. A careful buyer will insist on a flow test (and, if required, a replacement at your expense) as a condition of the sale before proceeding.
  10. On Thanksgiving Day, with all of the family from the Midwest gathered in one place, it’s the second worst time of year.
  11. Once the initial field has failed, an application for a permit to construct a new field must be submitted to the county, either at the place stated on the original plans as the “alternate leach field,” or at a new, compatible location.

Another way of putting it is that there must always be a backup site on file with the local government agency.

Septic Pumping Companies

Septic pumping businesses are normally required to dispose of the sewage they collect from each tank with the county in where the tank is located, according to state and local regulations. Therefore, firms may not always cover all counties in our region, and you will need to contact a provider that can serve your specific county in order to receive service there. The following are some of the businesses that are known to operate in our region. Please include other information: Return to the Mountain Living Fundamentals page.

How Far Should You Put the Septic Tank From the House?

Image courtesy of Kwangmoozaa/iStock/Getty Images.

In This Article

  • Amount of distance from the home
  • Basic safety concerns
  • Suggestions for a successful installation

For those who don’t have access to a municipal sewage system, an alternate solution, such as a septic tank and field lines, will be required. The design and operation of these systems are fairly straightforward. When designing a septic system, you must keep in mind the requirements of local construction codes as well as public health concerns.


Depending on where you live, local ordinances and regulations that specify the distance between the septic tank and the home vary. However, the normal minimum distance is 10 feet between the two structures. Consult your local ordinances and regulations for a detailed answer as to how far your septic tank must be installed from your home. Requirements differ from one location to the next, although the standard minimum distance from the home is 10 feet in most cases. In the case of a private well for drinking water, however, keep in mind that many state departments of health demand a minimum distance of 50 feet between a new septic tank and a well.

It is possible that the septic tank will be placed considerably closer to the structure since it will be easier and require less plumbing in some cases.

Basic Safety Considerations

If you’re the type of person who prefers to do things on their own, there are certain important measures you should take before starting this endeavor. Before you start digging the hole for the tank, call your local utility providers to find out where the service lines are located. A gas line, water line, phone line, or electrical connection that has been severed is not only potentially dangerous, but it may also be extremely expensive to repair. Once you have finished excavating the hole, proceed with caution.

It’s also important to understand that a concrete septic tank can weigh up to 5 tons.

Make sure the hole is available when the tank is delivered so that it can be installed straight in the desired location.

Tips for a Successful Installation

Plan ahead of time to get your water supply switched on prior to installing your septic tank. You must fill the tank with water as soon as it is placed in its final position for this to be possible. This has absolutely nothing to do with the septic system itself, but it is a prudent precaution. In the event of a heavy downpour, the groundwater may swell and a septic tank may float out of the ground, even if it has been buried. If this occurs, contact a qualified professional immediately. Repairing any damage done to the lines or to the tank itself, as well as putting the tank back in its original location, may be a costly and time-consuming endeavor.

See also:  Why Are The Implications Of Having A Septic Tank?

Initially, you may be confident that you will remember the exact location of the marker when it is time to top up the tank — which is generally every three to five years — but your memory may fade over time.

In the absence of a marker, you may end up digging holes in the wrong place when it is time to service the tank.

Pumping A Septic Tank Out

Written by Todd Fratzelon Maintanence,Plumbing

Pumping Septic Tanks Out

Please be advised that there are some obscene photos below. Our septic system tank was drained out today, which was a big relief. I just published an essay on the subject of when it is necessary to pump out a septic tank. We’d been in our new house for three years when the time came to have the septic tank cleaned out and examined. Aeration of septic tanks is necessary to remove the sludge, oil, and scum that is separated from the sewage before it reaches the drainfield. Septic tanks must be pumped out on a regular basis to keep them operating properly.

  1. Using a huge tank truck, as seen in the first photo, sewage is pumped out of the tank and transported by truck to an approved sewage treatment plant, where it is treated and disposed of appropriately.
  2. We had a septic tank with a capacity of 1,500 gallons, which was no problem for the truck.
  3. Using the following two images, you can see the sewer pipe from the home that enters the first section of the baffled tank as well as the output sewer pipe that connects to the drainfield, as well as the filter that is located there.
  4. The covers are replaced.
  5. Lastly, you can see the green filter that is positioned on the outflow pipe in the last photograph.
  6. Before reinstalling it, the inspector removes it and thoroughly cleans it with water.

Results of Inspection

It’s been a little more than three years since our septic system was put into operation. As a result of today’s inspection, the inspector determined that we should continue to pump the tank on a three-year cycle. To witness the quantity of oil that had accumulated in the tank was definitely an eye-opening experience. It served as a timely reminder to be extremely cautious about the amount of grease we flush down the toilet, as grease may cause early failure in septic drainfields.

Cost of Pumping A Septic Tank

Our septic tank has a capacity of 1,500 gallons. The tank was drained out and the filter was cleaned today, and the total cost was $472.50. The cost of this is determined by the amount of gallons of waste generated because the septic pumping firm charges per the gallon to dispose of the waste generated. Consequently, we spent around $0.32 per gallon to have it pumped and disposed of in our neighborhood.

Pumping out your septic tank every three years is far less expensive than replacing your drainfield. Building a septic drainfield typically costs between $8,000 and $12,000 in total expenditures and materials. Calculate the savings: pumping is significantly less expensive!

How to Locate the Cap to a Septic Tank

In most cases, a septic tank cap, also known as a lid or an access hatch, is positioned towards the middle of the tank on the tank’s top. The majority of caps have a square form and are roughly 16 inches in diameter. This cap serves as an entry point to the tank’s interior, allowing for cleaning and other maintenance to be performed. The presence of septic tank gases and a lack of air might result in fast asphyxia if someone enters the tank. Additionally, in some circumstances, locating this limit might be a frustrating experience.

Jupiterimages/ Images is the source of this image.

Step 1

Locate the main drain line that originates from the toilets in your home by entering the crawl area or basement of your home. Figure out where the drain leaves the home and in which direction it is traveling. – You may need to take measurements to verify that you can locate the drain’s exact placement from the outside of the property. Mark the placement of the drain line on the exterior of the home with a marker. Typically, this drain line will empty into the septic tank and will run directly from the home to the septic tank in most circumstances.

Step 2

Check the construction codes in the region. Most municipalities mandate that the septic tank be installed at least 10 feet away from the house’s foundation. Most contractors will place the tank as near to the house as feasible in order to make the installation as simple as possible. The closer the tank is to the home, the shallower the soil in which it will be buried will be. To locate the drain line, start measuring 12 to 14 feet from the foundation and follow it directly along the suspected course of the drain line.

Double-check your measurements and angles to ensure that you have achieved the desired precision.

Step 3

At the site of your mark, dig down to a depth of no more than two feet, but no deeper. Before you reach this level, you should strike the septic tank’s apex at the very top. It is necessary to refill the hole and drill another hole a little further out along the suspected drain line’s course if this is not the case. You should dig closer to the home if you are having difficulties identifying the septic tank. This will allow you to account for contractors that do not adhere to local codes while locating septic tanks.

Step 4

Once you’ve discovered the septic tank, you can widen the hole to expose more of the tank’s inside. Continue digging until you come across a seam in the tank lid, at which point you should remove enough soil to reveal the seam in its entirety. The tank cap will be made of this material.

The cap on the majority of units is flush with the tank’s surface and may have two wire handles. Before opening the hatch, make sure that any dirt and other debris has been removed from the surrounding area to avoid any dirt or other material from entering the tank.


The cap on your tank might be quite hefty, depending on the model and type of tank you have. In other cases, the cap can be so heavy that it will take the assistance of several people to remove it.

Landscaping Around a Septic System: Do’s and Don’ts

Riverside, California 92504-17333 Van Buren Boulevard Call us right now at (951) 780-5922. A big number of large plants, patios, and other structures are likely to be absent from the region surrounding your septic system. Indeed, conventional thinking is that you should avoid both large landscaping and septic systems in the vicinity of one other. This is a reasonable guideline to follow since roots can entangle themselves around pipes and cause them to burst. Plants, on the other hand, can absorb excess rainfall and decrease erosion, so landscaping around your septic system might not be such a bad idea after all.

You don’t want roots to penetrate the perforations and clog the system, so keep them out.

Landscaping Do’s and Don’ts

  • Plants that do not require a lot of water should be used. This stops plant roots from looking for water and interfering with your system’s functionality. Make use of herbaceous plants with shallow roots, such as flowers and ground cover. When planting quarts, gallons, or plugs, make sure to keep your plants somewhat near to one another to prevent erosion. This will help restrict the growth of weeds. If you have any trees or shrubs growing in your yard in the future, consider how their development may impede access to the septic tank lids, leach field, and sprinkler system. Using a potted plant, riser cover, or lawn ornament just above your access hatch, you may mark the position of your access hatch. When it comes time to dig it up, it will be much simpler to do so. Allow tall Kentucky bluegrass or another type of lawn to grow over the plot of ground that serves as a septic tank cover. Consider the benefits of growing perennials. Because both grasses and perennials have a shallow root structure, they should have no negative impact on your tank or drain field. Make use of tiny, non-woody groundcovers to disguise weeds. Think about planting shallow-rooted trees and vegetation (such as cherry trees, dogwood trees, holly bushes, azalea shrubs, and boxwood shrubs) in the area around your septic system, but make sure they are at least 10-15 feet away from the tank.
  • Get so concerned about plants and grasses hurting your septic tank that you completely demolish the surrounding region. Some grasses and plants are particularly effective at collecting excess rainwater surrounding the drain field, hence reducing the likelihood of drainage problems. Overwatering your lawn may encourage freshly planted plants to flourish more quickly. Overwatering can cause soil to contract over your leach field, which can cause your septic system to get clogged. Root vegetables can be grown in the vicinity of your system. If these nutrient-absorbing plants are planted too near together, they may cause problems with microorganisms.
  • Install plastic sheeting or ponds to keep the water out. These characteristics obstruct effective drainage from the tank to the leach field. Overlook the septic tank or leach field and construct walkways and high-traffic routes
  • Don’t forget that the placement of fencing and gates might have an impact on septic pumper truck access. The hoses on the truck are quite heavy, and we do not recommend that you use them to cross fences. The majority of pumpers like to have access within 50 feet of their vehicle. Planting plants or trees around the septic system is a good idea. Forestry professionals recommend planting trees 20 feet or more away from water, but trees that are known to hunt for water should be planted 50 feet or more away from water. Planting shrubs near the system is a good idea. Vegetables that are nutrient-rich can be grown on a septic system. However, contamination is a worry depending on how efficiently your soil filters microorganisms, even if it appears to be excellent for a garden. Susan Day, an expert on urban forestry at Virginia Tech, advocates planting aboveground veggies rather than root vegetables in close proximity as a safeguard. Disrupt the drainage system by constructing ponds, using plastic sheeting, or planting plants that require a lot of upkeep. Increase foot traffic in regions that are already established. The greater the amount of foot traffic, the more compacted the earth gets.

Plants Safe to Grow Over Septic Tanks and Drain Fields

As long as you choose the landscaping for the region around your septic system with care, you won’t have to be so concerned about the possibility of septic system damage caused by roots that you refrain from planting in these places entirely. It is not only permissible, but really desirable, to cultivate the appropriate kind of plants in this location. Plants will help to prevent erosion and will also help to absorb some of the surplus rainwater from the drainage system. The ideal plants to use around your septic tank and drain field are perennials and grasses (including decorative grasses).

Small, non-woody ground coverings are a wonderful choice for the same reason: they are low maintenance.

It is not safe to consume food crops that have been planted in the ground near a drain field since doing so may result in the consumption of hazardous microorganisms.

The following are examples of shallow-rooted plants and shrubs:

  • Dogwood trees, Japanese maple trees, Eastern redbud trees, cherry trees, azalea shrubs, boxwood shrubs, and holly shrubs are examples of ornamental trees and shrubs.

The Worst Plants to Grow Over Septic Systems

Planting huge, rapidly growing trees is often discouraged. However, some of the greatest offenders are trees and shrubs with root systems that are aggressively seeking out sources of water, which makes them particularly difficult to control. They are not picky about the water source from which they draw their water, which means the pipes in your septic tank drain field are completely fair game. Weeping willow trees are a well-known example of this. There are several trees and bushes to avoid, however the following are only a few examples:

  • The following are examples of plants and trees: Pussywillow bushes, Japanese willow shrubs, Weeping willow trees, Aspen trees, Lombardy poplar trees, Birch trees, Beech trees, and Elm trees The majority of maple trees, with the exception of Japanese maples
  • American sweetgum trees
  • Ash trees
  • Tulip trees

It is advised that a layer of vegetation, such as a lawn, be placed over the drain field to help hold the dirt in place and boost the effectiveness of the system. Certain principles, on the other hand, should be followed in order to avoid costly and unpleasant situations. Perhaps the greatest piece of advise would be to keep trees and bushes out of the landscaping surrounding this location. The most important factor should be the best possible functioning of your septic system, but each homeowner will need to do a cost/benefit analysis of the plants they choose on an individual basis.

If you suspect that encroaching tree roots are causing damage to your system, please contact us at (951) 780-5922 as soon as possible. If you have any questions, we have specialists standing by to help you resolve them and get your system back up and running.

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