How Many Feet Out From Septic Tank Does Leach Field Go? (TOP 5 Tips)

Common guidelines require at least 50′ clearance distance between a well and a septic system tank or 150′ between a well and a septic drainfield or leaching bed but you will see that different authorities may recommend different distances. Local soil and rock conditions can make these “rules of thumb” unreliable.

  • The septic tank will be installed at least 10-20 feet from the exterior. Since the tank is located just to the opposite side of the house, drain lines go to the leach field. Look at the naturally sloping land and you will be able to find the leach field.

How far do field lines extend from septic tank?

Your septic system site plan is typically drawn right on top of your property survey showing the septic tank ‘setbacks’ with tank 5-10 feet from the house, the leach field at least 20 feet from the house, at least 100 feet away from wells and streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the property

How far does a leach field extend?

The leach field is a series of trenches that may be up to 100-feet long and 1 foot to 3 feet in width, separated by six feet or more, depending on local requirements, and sometimes constructed leaving space between the original lines to install replacement leach lines when needed.

How far do leach lines go?

The minimum separation between the bottom of any leaching device and seasonally high groundwater shall be: 5 feet where the leaching device is between 50 and 100 feet from a stream, spring, or other waterbody.

How far is a leach field from the house?

Local codes and regulations that stipulate the distance of the septic tank from the house vary depending on the locale, but the typical minimum distance is 10 feet.

Can you add dirt on top of leach field?

Never add additional soil over the drain field unless it is a minimal amount used to restore an area that may have been eroded or pulled up by removing another plant. Try not to be overly zealous when tilling the soil for planting. Remember that the drain lines may be as close as 6 inches from the soil surface.

How many feet of leaching chamber do I need?

The minimum linear footage of the leaching chamber system should be determined by dividing the total trench bottom area by 1.2 meters (4 feet), when used in a conventional drainfield trench. No reduction area is allowed for leaching chamber systems installed in bed or fill systems.

How do I calculate the size of my septic drain field?

Drainfield Size

  1. The size of the drainfield is based on the number of bedrooms and soil characteristics, and is given as square feet.
  2. For example, the minimum required for a three bedroom house with a mid range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch is 750 square feet.

How much slope does a leach field need?

In a conventional gravity system, the pipe from the house to the septic tank, and the outlet pipe from the tank to the distribution box or leach field, should both slope downward with a minimum slope of 1/4 in. per ft. (1/8 in. per ft.

How far should a septic tank be from a house?

Most importantly, a septic tank must be at least seven metres from a house, defined as a ‘habitable property’. Septic tanks are built underground and release wastewater slowly into the surrounding environment. For this reason, they must be a set distance away from a home.

How far apart should a well and septic tank be?

Department of Health in many States requires that new septic tanks or human-waste lagoons to be installed at least 50 feet from a well. Septic tank drain fields must be at least 100 feet from a well.

Can you have a septic tank without a leach field?

The waste from most septic tanks flows to a soakaway system or a drainage field. If your septic tank doesn’t have a drainage field or soakaway system, the waste water will instead flow through a sealed pipe and empty straight into a ditch or a local water course.

What can you put on top of a septic field?

Put plastic sheets, bark, gravel or other fill over the drainfield. Reshape or fill the ground surface over the drainfield and reserve area. However, just adding topsoil is generally OK if it isn’t more than a couple of inches. Make ponds on or near the septic system and the reserve area.

Drainfield Size & Design

  • The percolation rate of a soil is an essential soil feature that measures how long it takes water to descend one inch in a saturated hole drilled in the ground.
  • In sandy soil, 1 inch can be achieved in 3 minutes
  • In clay soil, 1 inch may be achieved in 48 minutes.
  • If it takes less than 5 minutes for water to drop 1 inch in a saturated hole, the effluent will flow too quickly for it to be adequately treated, as is the case with sandy soil. If it takes more than 60 minutes for the water to drop one inch, the effluent will not be able to travel as quickly as it should, and effluent may rise to the top of the water table. This is something that may happen in clay soil.

Drainfield Size

  • According to the number of bedrooms and soil qualities, the drainfield is measured in square feet, and its size is reported in square feet. It has been determined by the Nebraska Department of Environmental Quality (NDEQ) how many square feet of drainfield trench will be required. Title 124 of the North Dakota Department of Environmental Quality (NDEQ) contains the design, operation, and maintenance requirements for on-site wastewater treatment systems
  • The table below is an excerpt from that title. A three-bedroom house with a mid-range percolation rate of 25 minutes per inch, for example, requires a minimum of 750 square feet of space to function properly.

Square Feet of Drain Field Trench Required for Single Family Dwelling

Number of Bedrooms 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Perc Rate in Minutes Per Inch 200 gpd 300 gpd 400 gpd 500 gpd 600 gpd 700 gpd 800 gpd 900 gpd 1000 gpd

5Systems must be constructed with a 12 inch loamy sand liner that has a percolation rate of 15 to 20 minutes per inch and should be developed at a percolation rate of 11-20 minutes per inch, with a percolation rate of 15 to 20 minutes per inch.

5-10 165 330 495 660 825 990 1155 1320 1485
11-20 210 420 630 840 1050 1260 1470 1680 1890
21-30 250 500 750 1000 1250 1500 1750 2000 2250
31-40 275 550 825 1100 1375 1650 1925 2200 2475
41-50 330 660 990 1320 1650 1980 2310 2640 2970
51-60 350 700 1050 1400 1750 2100 2450 2800 3150

60Systems must be developed by a licensed professional engineer or architect. A building permit is required. 017.02 In order to determine the needed square footage for enterprises, the following equation should be used: The daily design flow divided by the number of hours in the day (Five divided by the square root of the percolation rate). 017.03 In order to calculate the absorption area for a bed, first determine the needed square footage for a trench and then multiply the required square footage by the factor from Table 14.2.

How far is the drain field from the septic tank?

Asked in the following category: General The most recent update was made on the 26th of January, 2020. * Yoursepticsystem site plan is normally created directly on top of your property survey, indicating the septic tank’s setbacks from the house and the tank’s location. Theleach field is about 5-10 feet away from the home. 20 feet away from the home, 100 feet away from wells and streams, 25 feet away from dry gulches, and 10 feet away from the land are all minimum requirements. Starting at the home, begin your search for the septic tank lines.

  1. The drainline connects the tank’s terminus, which is opposite the house, with the leach field.
  2. Accordingly, the issue becomes, how deep should an on-site wastewater treatment system be?
  3. It is not recommended to construct a structure over a septic tank or leach field.
  4. What is the best way to unclog a leach field?
  1. Put on work gloves that are resistant to fluids and eye protection. After connecting the drain cleaner to your trigger gun and turning on the pressure washer, be sure you direct the nozzle at least a foot into the exposed septic field line entrance before turning on the water flow.

Septic systems: How big should my drainage field be?

What every homeowner who is considering building a septic system must consider is the amount of land they need to dedicate to septic field, which is where liquid waste will eventually be discharged into the soil. Even in the country, yard space is valuable, and you don’t want to give it up to a field that’s too large for your requirements or to a neighbor’s livestock. This is especially true when you consider the fact that once the field is in, you won’t be able to utilize that area for anything else in the future.

  • However, if you make your field too tiny, you’ll have a lot of headaches.
  • Who has a need for that?
  • But keep in mind that this is just a rough estimate.
  • The two most important elements to consider are, first, the amount of trash you intend to send through the system, and, second, the quality of the soil in the drainage field, both of which are vital.
  • If the soil has good percolation conditions—for example, if it’s comparably sandy and waste water seeps down with little resistance—a seepage field of 4,500 square feet (for example, 100 feet long and 45 feet wide) is appropriate for a three-bedroom house with regular waste production.
  • Figure 9,000 square feet, which is a significant change.
  • The percolation rate of waste water is quicker in hotter regions.
  • It will be up to your contractor to select how much larger it will be.
  • When deciding where you want your septic system to be installed in your yard, you need take your local zoning law into consideration.
  • It can be as much as 100 feet or more in extreme circumstances.
  • According to others, it should be located as near to the home as feasible.

But some believe that the system should be located as far away from the building as possible, in an open area where it will be simpler to reach in the event of a crisis.

How Deep Should a Septic Leach Field Be?

Photograph courtesy of Valerie Loiseleux/E+/Getty Images.

In This Article

  • Drain Field Operation
  • Drain Field Depth
  • Drain Field Width and Length
  • How the Drain Field Works

It is critical to appropriately size a septic system’s drain or leach field, as an inadequately sized field might result in serious complications. Waste puddles appearing on your lawn are just one of the issues that might arise, therefore it’s crucial to grasp the fundamentals of how a drain field works. Although you are not required to become an expert in septic systems, a little information may go a long way toward ensuring that your drain field is in good operating condition.

Tip

The final depth of a septic system’s drain field is determined by a variety of factors. Drain fields, on the other hand, are typically between 2 and 5 feet deep.

How the Drain Field Works

Solid waste is contained in your septic tank until it is pumped out, which is the final step in the process. The bacteria found in that trash, on the other hand, is far more mobile in nature. As part of the septic process, solid waste is removed from your tank and deposited at the bottom of your tank, while wastewater (together with the bacteria it contains) is discharged from your tank and into your drain field. Once there, the water percolates through the soil and eventually joins the local groundwater supply system.

  • In the long run, bacteria are eaten by microbes in the soil.
  • This is a significant project that necessitates the establishment of correct soil conditions, including the selection of the appropriate drain fieldsize and depth.
  • Typically, a completed bed comprises 12 inches of gravel below the pipe and additional 2 inches of gravel on top of the pipe.
  • The end product is a drain field that is approximately 3 to 4 feet deep.
  • This type of circumstance might be caused by underground impediments.
  • High groundwater tables have the potential to accomplish the same thing, necessitating the installation of a drain field capable of filtering germs at a deeper depth in order to avoid pollution.

Occasionally, this is accomplished by making the drain field shallower, but wider or longer in length. In other cases, a mounded or elevated drain field will be required to prevent flooding.

Drain Field Width and Length

If you have more than one bedroom in your house, your septic system designer will figure out what size drain field you’ll need based on the number of bedrooms you have. In addition, the designer will take into consideration the zoning regulations, soil conditions, and the peculiarities of your lot while designing your home. According to many towns’ regulations, for example, your drain field must be at least a set distance away from your property line. The setbacks from streams, marshes, water supply lines (including local water wells), and other possible barriers are also defined by municipal construction standards.

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In addition, pipes are frequently spaced 6 feet apart from one another.

The fact that they are spaced 6 feet apart, on the other hand, provides for the addition of more pipes at a 3-foot spacing if necessary in the future without enlarging the total footprint of the drain field.

It is then decided how this pipe should be laid out in relation to the amount of land available for the leach field to be used.

5 Things Homeowners Should Know About Their Septic Drain Field

There are certain distinctions in care, usage, and budgeting that you should be aware of, whether you’re a new homeowner with an existing septic system or considering about purchasing or building a home without sewer hookups. This document outlines three ways in which your budget will be affected if your wastewater is treated using a septic system. 1. You will not be required to budget for municipal sewer service. Because the municipal wastewater system normally processes all of the water, the cost of city sewage service is sometimes determined by how much water you purchase from the city.

  1. A large number of homes with septic systems also rely on wells for fresh water rather than municipal water, which means you’ll likely save money in that department as well.
  2. It is necessary to include septic maintenance in your budget.
  3. Although you are not required to pay the city for the usage of your septic system, you will be responsible for the costs of maintenance if you want the system to continue to function properly.
  4. It is possible that these maintenance and repair expenditures will build up over time, so you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund to cover any unforeseen repair bills.
  5. You’ll also need to budget for the cost of a single inspection and begin saving for the cost of a tank pump.
  6. Spreading the expenditures out over several months is the most effective budgeting strategy, even for an expense such as tank pumping that does not occur every year, because it allows you to better estimate the costs ahead of time.
  7. You may need to set aside money for septic tank replacement.

The tank and leach field may not need to be replaced if you have a reasonably recent septic system and plan to sell your home within a few years.

If, on the other hand, your home’s septic system is more than a decade old, you’ll want to start looking into how much a new system would cost you as soon as possible.

For example, if the previous owners did not do routine maintenance or if the system was installed on clay soil, the system may need to be replaced.

It is a prudent decision to begin putting money aside in anticipation of this eventuality.

When you have a septic system, you may use these three strategies to budget differently.

Make an appointment with us right away if you’re searching for someone to pump out your septic tank or to complete an annual examination of your septic system. Our experts at C.E. Taylor and Son Inc. would be happy to assist you with any septic system assessment, maintenance, or repair needs.

What You Need to Know About Your Septic System’s Drainfield

In the absence of a municipal sewer system, the likelihood is that you are utilizing an aseptic system for all of your wastewater disposal. It is your septic tank that is emptied every time you flush the toilet or when water drains down the drain from sinks or the laundry. Residential septic systems are available in a variety of configurations, but they invariably include an aseptic tank, into which wastewater is channeled for treatment, and a drainfield, into which effluent evaporates or drains into the ground.

What Is a Septic System Drainfield?

In order for a septic system to work correctly, drainfields, also known as leach fields or absorption fields, must be installed. Drainfields collect and manage wastewater that has been pumped from the septic tank and are thus essential. They are comprised of perforated pipes that are buried two to four feet underground and lead away from the tank. Septic tanks would overflow if a drainfield was not there, resulting in runoff and a foul stench in your yard. Whenever everything is operating properly, the soil in the drainfield filters the wastewater, and naturally occurring bacteria and microorganisms decompose the solid waste.

What Are the Signs There Is a Problem With Your Drainfield?

  • Waste smells, particularly outside in the vicinity of the septic tank and drainfield
  • Predominant presence of dark green, luxuriant flora covering the drainfield It may be visually appealing, but it indicates a severely overburdened septic system. It’s possible to have wet, soggy, or spongy regions over your septic tank or drainfield even in dry weather. It’s possible that you’ll discover puddles of standing water. Kitchen and bathroom drains that are too slow
  • Toilets that are overflowing or sewage backups

What Are the Causes of These Problems?

A drainfield can live for 50 years or longer if it is properly cared for and maintained. However, several of the indications listed above might indicate that a drainfield is beginning to fail. The system just does not have the capability to take any additional garbage. Sewage backups, a foul smell outside, and sluggish drainage inside your home are all possible consequences of this.

Crushing damage

When erected over a drainfield, heavy objects such as a shed, animals, or automobiles can cause the pipes below to get damaged or destroyed. Compaction of the soil can also be caused by an excessive amount of weight on the drainfield. Wastewater cannot be adequately absorbed in compacted soil, resulting in the occurrence of many of the symptoms described above.

Pipes are blocked

A possible source of obstruction is the infiltration of tree and plant roots into sewer lines, which prevents wastewater from draining correctly. The accumulation of sludge and the flushing of objects that should not be flushed down the toilet can also cause clogging of pipes.

The septic system is overloaded

Doing multiple loads of laundry on the same day as running the dishwasher might cause the septic system to become overburdened. A leaky faucet or a gurgling toilet might also be problematic. Time is required by all septic systems in order for the effluent to pass through the treatment procedures. It is otherwise necessary to compel wastewater to flow into the drainage field at a quicker pace than the drainage field is capable of handling. This can result in standing water or the mushy, spongy conditions described above.

Gutter downspouts draining over the drainfield

Having gutters that drain across the septic system drainfield makes it more difficult for the drainfield to absorb wastewater and perform its function.

This might result in a squishy region that is constantly wet or standing water.

What to Do to Maintain a Healthy Drainfield

  • Heavy machinery, automobiles, recreational vehicles, boats, grazing animals, and structures should be kept away from the area above your drainfield. Planting trees or other plants over your drainfield might cause harm to the pipes since the roots will grow into them. Make certain that all gutter downspouts are directed away from the drainfield. Every two to three years, have your septic tank pumped. Solids are conveyed into the drainfield by the absence of frequent pumping, resulting in blockage of the pipes. Apart from the waste that comes out of your body, the only item that should be flushed down the toilet is toilet paper. Other solids should not be flushed. Additionally, refrain from dumping any fats, oils, or grease down your drains. You should space out your laundry and dishwashing days so that you don’t overburden your septic system.

How a Septic System Works – and Common Problems

This Article Discusses Septic Tanks are a type of septic tank that is used to dispose of waste. Field Sizing and System MaintenanceProblems with the Leach FieldSystem Performance Questions and comments are welcome. See Also: Septic System Frequently Asked Questions Articles on SEPTIC SYSTEM may be found here. In locations where there are no municipal sewage systems, each residence is responsible for treating its own sewage on its own property, which is known as a “on-site sewage disposal system,” or septic system, more popularly.

One of the most commonly seen types of leach field is composed of a series of perforated distribution pipes, each of which is placed in a gravel-filled absorption trench.

SEPTIC TANK

The wastewater is collected in the septic tank once it has been discharged from the residence. Septic tanks are normally between 1,000 and 2,000 gallons in capacity and are composed of concrete, strong plastic, or metal, depending on the model. Highly durable concrete tanks, which should endure for 40 years or more provided they are not damaged, are the most common. Many contemporary tanks are designed with two chambers in order to maximize efficiency. Household wastewater is collected in the septic tank, where it is separated and begins to degrade before being discharged into the leach field.

  • In the tank, oil and grease float to the top of the tank, where they are known as scum, while solid waste falls to the bottom, where they are known as sludge.
  • Bacteria and other microorganisms feed on the sediments at the bottom of the tank, causing them to decompose in an anaerobic (without oxygen) process that begins at the bottom of the tank.
  • Solids and grease must be pushed out of the system on a regular basis in order for it to continue to function effectively.
  • Each gallon added to the tank results in one gallon being discharged to the leach field, leach pit, or other similar treatment facility.

A large amount of water delivered too rapidly to the tank may discharge untreated effluent, along with oil and particulates, into the leach field, where it may block the field and cause a backup.

Leach Field

When used properly, a leach field (also known as a “drain field”) is a series of perforated pipes that are typically buried in gravel trenches 18 to 36 inches below grade — deep enough to avoid freezing, but close enough to the surface that air can reach the bacteria that further purify the effluent (see illustration below). As little as 6 inches might separate you from the ground surface, depending on your soil type and municipal regulations. It is customary to cover the perforated pipes with approximately two inches of gravel and a layer of topsoil that is 18 to 24 inches in depth.

  1. Grass is often sown above the ground.
  2. The leach field is comprised of rows of perforated pipes in gravel trenches that are used to spread wastewater over a vast area in order to further purify it.
  3. A bacteria-rich slime mat forms where the gravel meets the soil, and it is responsible for the majority of the water purification work.
  4. Despite the fact that wastewater freezes at a far lower temperature than pure water, freezing is still a hazard in cold areas.
  5. The leftover pathogens are converted into essential plant nutrients by these organisms, while sand, gravel, and soil filter out any solids that remain.
  6. If the system is operating effectively, the filtered wastewater will return to the aquifer as naturally clean water that is suitable for human consumption at this stage.
  7. Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.
  8. Special systems may also be necessary in regions where there are flood plains, bodies of water, or other ecologically sensitive areas to protect against flooding.

SIZING THE LEACH FIELD

Using perforated pipes put in gravel-filled trenches, the drain field is sized to accommodate the number of beds in the house. In order for the system to function successfully, the leach field must be appropriately sized for the soil type and amount of wastewater, which is normally determined by the number of bedrooms in the house. In order for the liquid to seep into the soil, it must be permeable enough to do so. As a result, the denser the soil, the larger the leach field that is necessary.

  • Better to have surplus capacity in your system than to have it cut too close to the bone.
  • Septic tank backup into your house, pooling on the surface of the earth, or polluting local groundwater are all possibilities if the ground is incapable of absorbing the liquid.
  • Dense clay soils will not absorb the liquid at a sufficient rate, resulting in a backlog.
  • If the soil is mostly composed of coarse sand and gravel, it might drain at such a rapid rate that untreated sewage can poison the aquifer or damage surrounding bodies of water.
  • Alternative systems may be permitted in situations when traditional leach fields are unable to function properly owing to poor soil conditions or a high water table.

These systems sometimes cost twice or three times as much as a regular system and require significantly more upkeep. Near flood plains, bodies of water, and other ecologically sensitive places, special systems may also be necessary to protect people and property.

SEPTIC SYSTEM CAREMAINTENANCE REQUIRED

If you take good care of your system, you will be rewarded with years of trouble-free operation. Pumping the septic tank on a regular basis is necessary to remove the particles (sludge) and grease layer (scum) that have built up in the tank. The solids will ultimately overflow and spill into the leach field, decreasing its efficacy and diminishing its lifespan if this is not done. The rehabilitation of a clogged leach field is difficult, if not impossible; thus, constant pumping is essential!

  • Cooking fats, grease, and particles may also wash into the leach field if the tank is too small for the amount of water being used or if the tank is overcrowded on a regular basis.
  • Extra water from excessive residential consumption or yard drainage can overwhelm the system, transporting oil and particles into the leach field and causing it to overflow.
  • In addition, don’t try to complete a week’s worth of laundry for a family of five in a single day.
  • To minimize overburdening the system, the following measures should be taken:
  • Distribute your washing loads and other high-water-use activities across the week
  • And In the kitchen and bathroom, use low-flow appliances, faucets, and fixtures. Toilets, in general, are the source of the greatest amount of water use. Water should be diverted away from the leach field from the yard, gutters, and basement sump pumps.
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In addition, refrain from flushing sediments, strong chemicals, and just about anything else down the toilet or sink other than biological waste and white toilet paper. Avoid using garbage disposals in the kitchen. If you really must have one, keep it for small non-meat bits only. Avoid flushing chemicals or paints down the toilet since many chemicals can destroy beneficial microorganisms or cause water contamination in the surrounding area. Avoid flushing the following down the toilet:

  • Grease, fats, and animal scraps
  • Paints, thinners, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals
  • And a variety of other materials sanitary napkins, tampons, and other supplies Paper towels and disposable diapers are examples of such products. Egg shells, coffee grounds, and nut shells are all good options. Antibacterial soaps and antibiotics are available.

It is preferable to put grass over the leach field and to refrain from driving or parking in the vicinity. Excessive weight placed on top of the drain field might compress the earth, diminishing its efficiency as a drain field. Drain pipes can also become clogged by trees and plants with invasive roots. In order to prevent damage to the leach field, the following measures should be taken:

  • Heavy machinery should not be driven, parked, or stored on top of the leach field (or septic tank). Placement of a deck, patio, pool, or any other sort of construction over the leach field is prohibited. Remove any large trees or other plants with deep roots from the leach field. Grass is the most effective groundcover.

Even with careful use and routine maintenance, however, leach fields are not guaranteed to survive indefinitely. It is inevitable that the soil will get saturated with dissolved elements from the wastewater, and that the soil will be unable to absorb any more incoming water. The presence of an odorous wet area over the leach field, as well as plumbing backups in the house, are frequently the first indicators that something is wrong. Many municipalities mandate septic system designs to incorporate a second “reserve drain field” in the case that the first field fails.

A well constructed and maintained system should last for at least 20 to 30 years, if not longer than that. After a few tears, the initial field will naturally heal and may be used once again when the situation calls for it to be. More information on Septic System Maintenance may be found here.

SEPTIC SYSTEM PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS

Poor original design, abuse, or physical damage, such as driving heavy trucks over the leach field, are the root causes of the majority of septic system issues. The following are examples of common situations that might cause a septic system to operate poorly: Plumbing in the home. obstructed or insufficient plumbing vents, a blockage between the home and the septic tank, or an insufficient pitch in the sewer line leading from the house are all possible causes. Sewage tank to leach field connection Septic tank and leach field blockage caused by a closed or damaged tank outlet, a plugged line leading to the leach field caused by tree roots, or a blockage caused by sediments that overflowed from the tank Piping in the leach field.

  • Most of the time, tree roots do not make their way through the gravel bed and into the perforated pipe.
  • Reduced flows, achieved through the use of flow restrictors and low-flow faucets and fixtures, may be beneficial.
  • Because of the seasonal high water table, the soil around the trenches might get saturated, reducing the soil’s ability to absorb wastewater.
  • This may frequently be remedied by adding subsurface drains or curtain drains to intercept the water flow into the leach field region and to lower the water table in the immediate area around the drainage system.
  • Likewise, see: In order to do a perc test, who should I hire?
  • Is It Possible for Septic Systems to Last a Lifetime?
  • Performing an Inspection on a Septic System When Is the Best Time to Take a Perc Test?
  • Examination of the WellSEPTIC SYSTEMView allSEPTIC SYSTEMarticles Return to the top of the page

Frequently Asked Septic System Questions

Are you unfamiliar with septic systems? Have you just moved into a house that is unfamiliar to you, or into a freshly constructed home with your first septic system to operate and monitor? A homeowner may overlook this system since it is one of those “hidden” away components of the house that may easily be forgotten. Take care not to make the error of allowing this to happen to you! Septic system owners in our Greater Victoria and Saanich Peninsula service regions frequently have concerns regarding their septic systems, and we are here to help them.

  1. Don’t get too worked up over it!
  2. When you lift the lid, you will see a frothy, crusty coating on top that is referred to as a “scum layer.” In order to see/feel the true amount of water and solids in the tank, it would be necessary to stir the tank.
  3. What Is a Septic/Sewer Cleanout and Why Do I Need One?
  4. In the event that there is a blockage anywhere in your system or the necessity for a video examination, the clean outs will be beneficial for serving your system.
  5. They are typically comprised of a 6′′ PVC pipe with a cap that extends a few inches above ground level.
  6. In between your real septic tank and the leeching area is where you’ll find the distribution box.
  7. If your tank isn’t pumped out on a regular basis, the distribution box might get clogged with sediments, resulting in the failure of your septic system over time.

The majority of septic specialists would agree that grass is the best type of cover for septic drainfields and leach fields.

Consider speaking with a landscaping firm about the best approach to conceal the septic tank lids from view, rather than simply covering them over because they will need to be pulled up for servicing, which will incur additional costs from the septic business.

For a variety of reasons, this is not a good idea.

The roots will seek out and develop into damp locations, such as septic drainfields, in order to survive and reproduce.

Planting trees, hedges, or bushes on or in close proximity to your septic tank is not recommended.

No.

Watering vegetables is necessary, because too much water in the soil diminishes the soil’s capacity to handle wastewater.

In addition, bed preparation techniques such as rototilling and extensive digging can cause pipe damage.

No.

Even spreading mulch or bark over the drainfield is not suggested since it restricts air circulation and allows water to accumulate in the soil.

This is not a good idea!

Vehicles, boats, trailers, and recreational vehicles (RVs) should be parked away from the septic drainfield as well as away from the reserve field.

Parking pads, carports, hot tubs, decks and any other hardscape or construction are not permitted, and the same would apply to them.

Is it necessary to keep livestock away from septic drainfields?

As previously stated, this is detrimental to the soil’s ability to exchange oxygen.

Rainwater is channeled into my drainfield by a rain gauge.

Yes.

The quality of your property’s drainage will determine how much water will saturate the soil.

Construction of a short trench or channel uphill from a drainfield can sometimes be beneficial in directing water away from the drainfield.

It is recommended that water lines be at least 10 feet away from all components of the septic system.

What is the role of an effluent filter in protecting my drainfield?

It causes wastewater to travel through small pores before entering the drainfield, and it keeps sediments contained within the septic tank, where they may be drained out as necessary.

What is the process through which your soil treats wastewater?

This is done because organic matter is a food supply for many microorganisms that reside in the soil, and it is removed from the effluent.

To eliminate viruses from wastewater, they are chemically attracted to soil particles and drawn to the particles.

Is this all right?

Septic systems do not need to be linked to “clean water” waste sources such as footing drains, roof drains, water softeners, or dehumidifiers because they just add surplus water to the environment.

A water conservation strategy should be implemented in order to reduce the amount of water that flows through the drainfield.

Island Pro Septic Pumps Out Septic Tanks From Sidney To Victoria

Septic tank pumping and vacuum truck services provided by Island Pro Septicis, situated in North Saanich on the Saanich Peninsula and serves the whole Greater Victoria area. We are experts in pumping out home septic systems, commercial septic systems, marine and recreational vehicle septic tanks, and holding tanks. The service we provide is swift and efficient, and our prices are competitive. If you’d like to obtain a quotation for pumping out your septic tank or holding tank, please give us a call at (250) 415-8558 or fill out our contact form and we’ll get back to you as soon as we possibly can!

Strander’s Sanitary FAQ

Septic systems are believed to be on-site systems that are meant to dispose of biological sanitary waste in a safe and proper manner. Even though “gray water,” such as laundry waste, is a component of the waste system, it does not always result in what is referred to as “biological” waste. We will discuss the issue of “gray water” waste and how it affects the design of a septic system in this section.

How Do Septic Systems Work?

Essentially, a septic system serves as a “holding tank” in which natural bacterial action decomposes human waste products into environmentally acceptable components, with water as the primary end-component, mixed with some other components that are not readily consumed by the bacterial action, gases, and undigested solids as minor end-components. With the exception of the undigested solids, the final products are released into the on-site environmental environment.

Where Are The Septic System Components Located?

The septic tank, which is commonly made of concrete or steel, is buried in the ground at a distance of at least 10 feet from the home. The top of the tank is normally around one foot below the surface of the earth, allowing it to be accessed for inspection and pumping on a regular schedule. If you are unsure of the location of the tank, the first step is to identify the point at which the house sewer line exits the home. If you live in a house with a basement, here is where the pipe enters the house from the outside.

  • In most cases, if the pipe exit can be identified, the tank will begin around 10 feet from the outer wall of the home and in line with the house sewer pipe.
  • For a few bucks, you can pick up a metal rod with a diameter of around 1/8 inch from most hardware stores.
  • Unlike the septic tank, the distribution box is considerably smaller and is often located around 20 feet away from the home.
  • Another option is to gently probe the soil with a narrow metal rod in order to locate the distribution box.
  • It is necessary to have holes in the pipes of the trenches in order for the liquid to be spread uniformly across the trench.
  • A dirt filter is located over the stone (usually one or two layers of what is called untreated building paper).
  • Another consideration is WHERE THE COMPONENTS SHOULD NOT BE LOCATED.
  • In certain regions, it is not permitted for the well to be located downslope from the leach field.
  • Normal operating procedures call for no portion of the system to be within 10 feet of a property line.

In addition, no section of the system should be beneath a porch or driveway, and heavy vehicles (including automobiles) should not be driven over the system to avoid causing damage to the system and its components.

Care and Maintenance of A Septic System

Conventional septic systems are not without their own set of problems. Pumping out the undigested solids (sludge) that accumulate at the bottom of the septic tank should be done every 2 to 3 years, depending on the amount of usage and size of the tank. It is inevitable that sludge will accumulate in the leach field over time and cause the field to collapse if it is not cleared on a regular basis. Using excessive amounts of common home chemicals such as drain cleansers, laundry detergent, and bleach may be harmful to a well-designed system since they can clog the system.

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Fatty foods and oil used in the kitchen should be avoided.

Why Septic Systems Fail

The sewage system may back up and overflow into the home or puddle on the surface of the ground if the liquid effluent does not have time to soak into the soil around the leach field before it becomes stagnant. Several different factors might be contributing to this issue. Poor soil conditions; faulty design or installation are examples of this. A leaching system installed in inappropriate soil, a system that is too small for the house it serves, or a system that has been incorrectly designed can all result in premature failure of the system.

  • Clogging of the soil It is very likely that the soil will become blocked very rapidly if sludge or scum is allowed to escape into the distribution box and then onto the leach field.
  • This problem can be caused by septic tank baffles that have been damaged, allowing sludge or scum to seep into the surrounding area.
  • 3.
  • This situation may need the reinstallation of the system at a more advanced level.
  • 4.
  • In most cases, the plants must be removed and the roots must be removed from the pipes.
  • You should be aware of the system’s position and direct traffic in order to avoid causing harm to the system.

How Long Should A Septic System Last?

A standard septic system, such as the one detailed here, may be expected to survive for around 30 years before needing replacement. Other systems persist far longer than others, and some systems fail considerably more quickly than others for a variety of causes, including those listed above. Other factors might also have an impact on the lifespan of a septic system. For example, a system that had been giving excellent service to a prior owner for many years may suddenly stop working shortly after you purchase the property.

If the previous owners were a working couple with no children, it is likely that the system was not extensively utilized; if your family is a large one, the additional load may be enough to push a mediocre system over the edge and cause it to malfunction.

What is Gray Water?

In most cases, gray water comes from a laundry system, but it can also come from a sump pump, foundation footing drains, roof runoff, and sometimes shower drains, as well as other sources. This water typically does not include any human waste products and hence does not require digestion in the same way that human waste does. The criteria for disposing of this sort of water are less strict than those for disposing of human waste. If you have a limited amount of available space on your property, it may be feasible to separate the gray trash from the human waste and reduce the size of the system required to regulate the human waste to save costs.

What are the Signs of a Failing System?

The backup of sewage into the residence is one indication that the system is malfunctioning. Backup, on the other hand, can simply be the consequence of a blockage somewhere between the home and the septic tank, as was the case in this case (this is relatively easy to fix). Another symptom of failure might be the stench of sewage emanating from outside the house. The presence of this scent after a significant amount of water has been poured into the system – many showers or several loads of laundry (if the laundry waste discharges into the septic system), for example – may be an indicator that the leach field is not functioning properly.

  1. If water and garbage are being pushed to or near ground level, this might give the surface a “spongy” sensation.
  2. The source of this odor, on the other hand, may be the plumbing vent.
  3. If you see any of these indicators, a dye test may be performed to validate your concerns.
  4. After then, a substantial volume of water is flushed through the system.
  5. It would be a very strong indicator that the system had failed if the dye could be visible on the surface.

I Plan on Repairing, Installing or Replacing a System. What Should I Expect?

When it comes to installing a new system or repairing or replacing an old one, there are two key considerations. It is first and foremost a financial burden, and second, the inconvenience of maybe being unable to utilize the present system while a new system is being built. When it comes to new building, the second aspect is typically not a significant concern. The cost of repair or replacement will, of course, vary depending on what has to be repaired or replaced. If the repair does not include the leach field, the cost may be significant, but it is not likely to be prohibitively expensive in comparison.

It is estimated that this sort of repair will cost in the neighborhood of several hundred dollars.

You should budget an additional $2000 to $3000 for a typical home if a new leach field is required and there is enough space to accommodate the installation.

Where a new leach field cannot be constructed because there is insufficient space, the present field, including the congested soil, must be demolished and a fully new system constructed. Such an undertaking can easily cost in excess of $10,000.

Alternative (Other Types of) Systems?

In the last section, we covered a conventional system that was put in the soil that already existed on the site. When the site circumstances do not permit the installation of this sort of system, there are other options available to consider. A “mound” system, for example, may be used when groundwater or percolation rates are insufficient or inappropriate for the situation. A mound system is one in which a suitable soil is put on top of an unsuitable soil. Following that, a typical system is placed in the mound.

  • There may be an option to install one or more cesspools, also known as seepage pits, if there isn’t enough space for a normal leach field to be constructed.
  • For these systems, once again, there are special needs to meet.
  • This indicates that the bacteria are able to function without the presence of oxygen.
  • There are also hybrid systems, which employ a combination of anerobic and aerobic parts to get the desired results.

How Big Should the Leach Field Be?

When it comes to installing a new system or repairing or replacing an old one, there are two key considerations. It is first and foremost a financial burden, and second, the inconvenience of maybe being unable to utilize the present system while a new system is being built. When it comes to new building, the second aspect is typically not a significant concern. The cost of repair or replacement will, of course, vary depending on what has to be repaired or replaced. If the repair does not include the leach field, the cost may be significant, but it is not likely to be prohibitively expensive in comparison.

It is estimated that this sort of repair will cost in the neighborhood of several hundred dollars.

You should budget an additional $2000 to $3000 for a typical home if a new leach field is required and there is enough space to accommodate the installation.

Such an undertaking can easily cost in excess of $10,000.

Application Rate / Flow Rate (gallons per day) equals the required area (in square feet) (gallons per day per square foot) Now that we know the number of square feet of absorption field that will be required, we can divide that amount by the width of each trench to get the number of feet of trench that will be needed.

  1. Let’s have a look at an example computation to understand how it all works.
  2. There has been a failure in the leach field, and a new one must be erected.
  3. What is the size of the absorption field that will be required?
  4. According to the data above, the application rate is 0.5 gallons per day per square foot, with a percolation rate of 32 minutes per inch, and the percolation rate is 32 minutes per inch.
  5. You will require a total of 900 square feet of absorption space.
  6. A lateral is a trench that is no longer than 60 feet in length.
  7. It is preferable to have the laterals the same length wherever possible, thus your design professional may specify eight laterals, each of which is 60 feet long, when the property conditions allow.

It is necessary to dig ten trenches, which are known as laterals. Additionally, you should provide for the possibility of future development in addition to the requisite space for the leach field (50 percent expansion area is required in New York State).

What Are the Components of a Private Spectic System?

Everything that is most evident is the stuff that we see every day: the sinks, toilets, and pipes found in a typical home, for example. What is not apparent are the things that are underground; the items that are underground, as well as the earth itself, have a significant influence on the way a septic system functions and functions well. The septic tank, a distribution box, and a leach field are the three main components of the system, respectively. Bacterial action occurs in the septic tank, where the end products are mostly water, gases, and undigested material, which is referred to as sludge, which sinks to the bottom of the tank and scum, which floats to the top of the tank, respectively.

  • By using the plumbing vent system, the gases that are produced may be released into the atmosphere.
  • These perforated pipes then transport the liquid to a vast area of soil surface known as a leach field or absorption field, where it may be absorbed.
  • The sludge that accumulates at the bottom of the tank must be drained out and properly disposed of on a regular basis.
  • This sort of system is the subject of the following discussion.

If my Family is Growing and I add a New Bedroom, What Should I Expect?

Septic systems are designed to handle the disposal of biological waste generated in the home. The amount of garbage that must be managed is determined by a variety of factors. The number of people who live in the house, as well as their way of life, are among the considerations. After many years of research and development, it has been discovered that the number of bedrooms in a house is a significant guideline in deciding the size and functionality of a septic system. As a rule, the number of bedrooms is proportional to the number of people who generate trash and, consequently, the amount of rubbish that must be managed.

Failure of the septic system may occur if the system’s capacity cannot keep up with the rising demand for services.

The following parts are mostly concerned with the proper size of a septic system in order for it to accomplish its intended function.

Although you may not require all of this information, it may be useful in making your selections.

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