How Do I Get The Cover Off Of My Septic Tank? (Solution)

Some tank lids have built-in handles to pull on, but others require a pry bar to lift them open. If the lid comes with handles, ask for the assistance of a friend or family member to remove the lid. If it doesn’t, push a screwdriver into the seam around the lid and insert the pry bar into the gap. Then, press down.

  • However you can usually loosen the stuck septic tank top by some thoughful hammering with a SMALL sledge, with CARE so as not to break open the top of the tank. Try tapping around the edges of the cover a few times. Wear goggles so you don’t get infected debris in your eyes.

How do you uncover a septic tank lid?

In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.

Do all septic tanks have lids?

Find the Lid. If your septic tank was installed after 1975, it will probably have two polyethylene or fiberglass lids centered at opposite sides of the perimeter. Older tanks will typically have a 24-inch concrete lid right in the center of the tank. Excavate in those locations to reveal the lids.

What to do after septic is pumped?

After you have had your septic tank pumped by a trusted septic company, there are some things you can and should do as the septic system owner.

  1. 1) Get on a Schedule.
  2. 2) Take Care of the System.
  3. 3) Know the Parts of Your System.
  4. 4) Check Other Possible Issues.

How far apart are the lids on a septic tank?

The distance between lids will be different for each sized tank: 1000 gallon tank = 6-6.5 ft.; 1250 gallon = 7-7.5 ft.; 1500 gallon = 8.5-9 ft.. Dig up the outlet chamber access lid. If you are extraordinarily lucky, the as-built drawing is accurate and you have hit the lids spot on.

How can I tell if my septic tank is full?

Here are some of the most common warning signs that you have a full septic tank:

  1. Your Drains Are Taking Forever.
  2. Standing Water Over Your Septic Tank.
  3. Bad Smells Coming From Your Yard.
  4. You Hear Gurgling Water.
  5. You Have A Sewage Backup.
  6. How often should you empty your septic tank?

Should septic tank lid be sealed?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

How often should a septic tank be pumped?

Inspect and Pump Frequently The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three to five years.

Can you flush the toilet when the septic is being pumped?

You can save time and money by taking a few daily precautions that reduce the frequency of pump-outs your system will need: To flush or not to flush — Aside from wastewater, toilet paper is the only other thing that should be flushed.

Can I shower if my septic tank is full?

Only the water would get out into the leach field in a proper system unless you run too much water too fast. The thing to do is to run your shower water outside into it’s own drain area, but it may not be allowed where you are. Used to be called gray water system.

How many loads of laundry can I do a day with a septic tank?

Spread Out Laundry Loads These use less water which puts less stress on your septic system. Regardless of the type of appliance you have, you should still spread out your loads. Instead of doing several loads in one day, consider doing 1 load per day or space out 2 loads if you must do more in a single day.

How to Remove a Septic Tank Lid

A septic tank lid is the section of the sewage tank that is located at the top of the tank. This lid must be removed at least once every several years in order to completely empty the tank. Every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank, a homeowner will need to have the septic tank pumped out and cleaned. Avoid allowing the tank to become overflowing, causing it to begin backing up into the home or overflowing out of the opening. The tank suffers serious damage as a result of this.

Step 1 – Locate Septic Tank

A septic tank lid is the section of the sewage tank that is located at the top of the tank. This lid must be removed at least once every several years in order to completely empty the tank. Every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank, a homeowner will need to have the septic tank pumped out and cleaned. Avoid allowing the tank to become overflowing, causing it to begin backing up into the home or overflowing out of the opening. The tank suffers serious damage as a result of this.

Step 2 – Dig Up Septic Tank Lid

A septic tank lid is the section of the sewage tank that is located at the top of the tank. This lid must be removed at least once every several years in order to completely empty the tank. Every three to five years, depending on the size of the tank, a homeowner will need to have the septic tank pumped out and cleaned. Avoid allowing the tank to become overflowing, causing it to begin backing up into the home or overflowing out of the opening. The tank suffers serious damage as a result of this.

Step 3 – Pry Off Septic Tank Lid

The lid of the septic tank might be rather hefty, depending on the size of the tank. On all sides, it is a solid block of concrete that is perfectly flat. It could have a handle that you can pull on. Pry bars are required to remove the majority of septic tank lids from their resting positions. Set the prybar in the seam and push it down until it is secure. As the lid begins to rise out of the hole, have someone assist you in moving it to the side. Place the lid on the ground’s surface so that it is not in the path of the pumping vehicle.

Replacing Your Septic Tank Access Cover

The entrance cover for your septic system may appear to be an inconsequential element of the jigsaw, but it is critical to keeping your waste confined. Therefore, it is critical to understand when, why, and how you should replace your septic tank access cover in order to avoid costly repairs. Let’s take a deeper look at what’s going on.

When Should You Replace Your Septic Tank Access Cover?

Although it may appear to be an insignificant piece of the jigsaw, the access cover on your septic system is critical to keeping your waste confined.

Therefore, it is critical to understand when, why, and how you should replace the access cover on your septic tank. Let’s take a deeper look at what we have here.

How to Replace Your Septic Tank Access Cover

So, how do you go about replacing a septic tank lid that has damaged or is leaking? Take the actions outlined below.

Locate your septic tank lid.

If your septic tank’s lid is on risers or if you have already had your septic tank pumped, this step is straightforward because you already know where your septic tank is located. When it comes to finding your septic tank if it is buried someplace in your yard and cannot be discovered, the task becomes a little more difficult to do. First, try contacting the folks who previously owned the land where you live. If you can’t get in touch with them, you might look for your property’s papers at the local health department.

You may either use a metal detector (and hope that the lid is made of metal!) or track the drain pipes that go away from your house if none of the other methods are successful.

Wait for the trail to come to an end, then probe about until you come upon the septic tank cover.

Fortunately, you only have to go through this process once!

Determine what type of access cover you need for the replacement.

Always keep in mind that septic tank lids are available in a number of materials, which means that they vary in terms of both durability and cost. Despite the fact that concrete is reasonably inexpensive and surely durable, it is difficult to remove for routine maintenance and septic tank pumping. PVC or polyethylene covers, on the other hand, are more expensive, but they offer a greater degree of ease. Lids made of metal or fiberglass are also available. In addition to personal preferences, consider variables such as the placement of the septic tank, the amount of weight that will be placed on it, and so on.

Measure the current access cover.

Be sure to carefully measure the previous lid before making your final purchase to guarantee that you obtain the right size lid. The majority of lids are between 21″ and 25″ in height.

If the lid is not on risers, use a shovel to dig around it.

Remove the soil from the top of the septic tank and use a shovel to loosen the corners of the lid so that you can easily remove it. Remove the soil from the bottom of the septic tank.

Lift the old lid off the tank.

This phase might be simple or complex, depending on the sort of lid you’re working with. For a heavier lid, such as one constructed of concrete, you will almost certainly want the assistance of another pair of hands. If the lid is constructed of a lighter material with fasteners, carefully remove the bindings and pull it out of the way. Make sure that any children or pets are kept inside throughout the replacement procedure to avoid anyone falling in during the operation. Watch your own feet, as well.

Install the new one using the existing fasteners.

Once you have removed the old, leaking lid, carefully replace it with the new one, making sure that it is aligned with the rest of the container and that it fits tightly.

Re-bury the lid, or ensure its security if it is on risers.

Once you’re finished, either set the soil back on top of the lid or tighten the cover to ensure it’s snug and secure.

How Can Norway Septic Help?

Located in Norway, Indiana, Norway Septic Inc. is a customer-focused company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to homes and business owners in the Michiana area. We take great delight in finishing the task that others have left unfinished. For more information on purchasing a new effluent filter or scheduling a septic tank cleaning with one of our specialists, please contact us right now.

Procedure for Opening Septic Tanks

  • ASK a question or make a comment about how to open a septic tank safely and properly for inspection or cleaning.

InspectAPedia does not allow any form of conflict of interest. The sponsors, goods, and services described on this website are not affiliated with us in any way. Instructions on how to open the septic tank. The location of the septic tank cleanout or cover, as well as the access and opening processes. We discuss some of the things to look for before opening the septic tank, such as subsidence, indications of recent work, and septic tank coverings that are not suitable to use. Then we demonstrate how to remove the septic tank lid or the access port cover from the tank.

For this topic, we also have anARTICLE INDEX available, or you may check the top or bottom of the page.

Procedures for Safe Opening of a Septic Tank, Cesspool, or Drywall for Inspection or Cleaning

The following are the contents of the article:

  • How to remove the lid from a septic tank
  • When it comes to pumping out the septic tank, which septic tank entrance should be used? Why

In this septic tank pumpout article series, you’ll learn how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks, as well as how to locate, open, pump out, clean, and inspect conventional septic tanks using photos. In addition to septic pumping tank truck operators, this guideline is meant to provide basic information to homeowners and septic service providers that are concerned about septic system maintenance.

  • There is a risk of dangerous, perhaps deadly collapse due to subsidence (depressions or low regions in the earth) near the location of the septic tank. Evidence of recent construction activity that may necessitate further investigation in order to determine the status of the septic system
  • Backup or effluent breakout at the surface of the ground in the septic tank region.
  • Here is an example of a septic tank cover that was discovered atop an unstable home-made collection of concrete blocks that had been piled by the owner to serve as an access well to his septic tank. Because the masonry blocks were misaligned and loose, and because the tank aperture into which the cover opened was bigger than the cover, there was a serious collapse risk that may have resulted in a deadly hazard. We covered the area with plywood and roped it off, and we quickly informed the residents and the property owner of the situation, both verbally and in writing
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Procedure for Opening the Septic Tank Pumping Access Port

It is necessary to clean the septic tank using a cleanout port, which is normally positioned in the center of the tank. A small access opening, such as one over an intake or outlet baffle, does not provide enough space for adequate sludge removal from the septic tank bottom, and it increases the likelihood of future clogging of the tank’s inlet or outlet due to partially removed floating scum that has not been completely removed from the tank bottom. In this particular scenario, we already had the measurements to the exact placement of the septic tank cleanout cover due to previous work.

A wrecking bar is set to be used to remove the cover from the vehicle.

Reader CommentsQ A

@Ron, In order for a concrete septic tank lid to be correctly erected, it must feature both access openings and cast in iron loops to which a hoist may be attached. Alternatively, if your septic tank cover does not have those points of purchase for lifting, you will require a flat bar and a larger wrecking bar to pry up the excavated lid from the septic tank sufficiently to allow you to put a chain around the lid, most likely two Chainz, and lift the lid with a hoist and tripod mechanism or you will use an on-site motorized hoist.

  • 1/2 x 27/4 removing the top of a septic tank @Phil, Although what you describe is theoretically doable, it may be less expensive and more rational to do so in a different way.
  • This is due to the fact that just stitching a circular hole does not ensure that I am creating a hole through which the lid will not be dropped.
  • Edge My concrete septic tank, which was constructed when the home was built in 1979 and does not have any manholes or openings for pumping out, is in poor condition.
  • Is it feasible to cut two manholes using a concrete saw that are 20″/24″ in diameter and then build risers and a cover on top of them?
  • Could you please share a picture of the tank top?
  • It is common for the concrete top to be tapered; nevertheless, it may just be trapped by effloresent salts and filth.
  • I have a feeling that simply tugging will not be effective.

This would have stopped leaks but would have made it extremely difficult to open the tank for the next person who needed to open the tank.

Repeat this process many times all around the cover’s perimeter.

For me, this has worked almost every time in the past.

It is recommended that you build a septic tank riser that is sealed to the tank top, as well as a new secure cover on top of the riser if your septic tank lid is not near to the ground level.

Never work on your own.

I’ve erected two wood 4x4s on top of the lifting ring to provide additional support.

All I’ve done three times is shattered those 4x4s.

Do you have any recommendations?

A septic tank pumping provider can remove plastic bags, tiny pebbles, and other debris from your tank, as well as the sediments, scum, and sludge that has accumulated there.

What is the best way to get them out?

When the septic tank is drained out, would it make sense to place a plastic bag over the top hole of the tank to keep the odors contained?

Gerard A plastic bag as a sewer line cap doesn’t seem right to me – it’s not durable, it’s the incorrect material if a cover is required, and if it’s a vent rather than an access pipe, the vent must be open to the atmosphere and protected from animal intrusion.

What is the function of this item?

A typical septic tank is equipped with clean out access covers that are strategically placed.

Maybe something as basic as a flat piece of concrete or stone will be sufficient, or maybe something more complex.

To be quite honest, I would have expected the contractor who dug the hole to be accountable for ensuring that the system was repaired and safe.

What should I do to solve it?

What store would I go to in order to acquire septic tank covers?

A few years ago, I had a beautiful new house built for me.

I have three plastic polylok lids, one of which is above ground and is for the pump.

I’d like to purchase risers so that I may build all three at a depth of around 6 inches below ground level.

What are the advantages and disadvantages.

Do you have any other suggestions?

I apologize for the lengthy post.

Sorry, but “True Bolt” isn’t a phrase I’m familiar with or associate with septic tank lids in any way.

Although this is not always the case, Mary, as the pumper may be able to access the entire tank bottom from a single opening depending on the tank’s size and shape; however, if your pumper is unable to do so from a single opening, you may want both openings opened to inspect the condition of the tank baffles.

There are two holes in my septic tank. Is it necessary to open both doors for a pump out?

Question:cannot find the manhole cover of the septic tank

(8th of August, 2014) “We’ve located the cesspool concrete lid (about 12 foot diameter), but after digging a 2 foot perimeter, we were unable to locate the manhole cover, which was required for an inspection.” vicki levin stated Help? My husband is becoming increasingly upset with the digging!

Reply:

If it’s a cesspool, rather than a septic tank, and it’s spherical, the access lid is normally located in the center of the container.

Question: how do i remove septic tank lid that is stuck

The entrance lid would normally be in the center of the cesspool, if it is in fact a cesspool rather than a septic tank, and it is spherical.

Reply:

Anon:WARNING: If the septic tank cover, lid, or access aperture has partially caved in or sank into the tank, the condition is extremely dangerous – an unsecure cover implies that someone might fall into the tank, which is generally lethal very quickly. Please keep everyone away from the septic tank area until such time as you have had the tank inspected and opened for additional inspection by a professional. Depending on the tank type and condition, lifting the lid may necessitate the use of a pry bar or wrecking bar, as well as a small portable winch (which is unusual).

Alternatively, consider the following:

Septic Pumping ProcedurePumper Truck Operation Articles

  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION
  • MISTAKES MADE IN SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • PROCEDURE FOR SEPTIC TANK PUMPING
  • HOW TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN TO CLEAN A SEPTIC TANK
  • WHEN NOT TO PUMP A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO FIND A SEPTIC TANK
  • HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK
  • INSPECT THE SEPTIC TANK BEFORE PUMPING
  • SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE
  • SEPTIC TANK LEVELS OF SEWAGE
  • PUMPER TRU

Suggested citation for this web page

HOW TO OPEN A SEPTIC TANK at Inspect a Tank An online encyclopedia of building environmental inspection, testing, diagnosis, repair, and issue preventive information is available at Apedia.com. Alternatively, have a look at this.

INDEX to RELATED ARTICLES:ARTICLE INDEX to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

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How to Find the Lid on a Septic System

All septic tanks eventually fill with sediments and must be pumped out on a regular basis in order to remain in excellent functioning order. If the tank’s lid is not on a riser at ground level and you are not the home’s original owner, you may be unable to determine where the lid is located.

A typical septic tank is 4 inches to 4 feet underground, with all of its components, including the cover, buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underneath. This is true regardless of whether the septic tank is equipped with special risers that keep the lid flush with the surface of the ground.

Consult A Map

First, choose with the most straightforward choice. The installation of septic tanks at all locations is recorded in most counties’ permission records, which are kept on file for future reference. Typically, this will include a schematic indicating the placement of the tank on the land, as well as certain dimensions that will allow you to measure to the precise site of the tank. If your tank was placed before your county made it a requirement to record the location of such tanks, you may find yourself with nothing to show for your efforts.

Search For A Sign

Septic tanks are placed in such a way that they are as unnoticeable as possible on the land. After the grass has grown back after installation and some time has passed, it is possible that just a few visual indications will remain. Pay particular attention to the contours of your yard for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of an underground storage tank.

Follow The Pipe

It is important for septic tanks to be as unobtrusive as possible on the site where they are built. It is possible that just a few visual signals will remain once the grass has recovered from the installation and time has gone. Consider your yard’s topography carefully for any inexplicable high or low points that might suggest the presence of a hidden tank.

Locate The Lid

The majority of septic tanks are rectangular in shape and measure around 5 feet by 8 feet. Investigate the tank’s circumference to determine its boundaries and outline the rectangle’s boundary using a pencil. A septic tank that was built before 1975 will have a single concrete lid that is 24 inches in diameter in the center of the rectangle. If the tank was built after 1975, it will have two covers made of fiberglass or polyethylene, centered at the ends of the rectangle and centered at the ends of the rectangle.

Call A Professional

Opening a septic tank is a job best left to the pros once the lid has been discovered. Concrete septic tank lids are extremely heavy, and many require the use of lifting tools to remove them completely. An open tank has the potential to release toxic gases. Anyone going around on the property who comes into contact with an exposed septic tank might be in risk. Because of the noxious vapors present in an open tank, falling into one can be lethal.

Mark The Spot

Make a note on the ground near where the tank was pumped by a professional and the lid was buried to serve as a reference in the future. In order to keep track of where you are, you should choose a hefty circular patio tile that is embedded in the ground. Additionally, draw your own map of the area and store it with your other important papers.

What do I do if My Septic Alarm is Going Off?

In the event that your septic alarm goes off, it may surely create some anxiety and uncertainty; and if you happen to be experiencing this right now, then you’ve arrived to the correct location! Don’t be concerned; it does not necessitate urgent action. Instead, take your time to go through this full essay so that you will be prepared to act now or in the future if the situation arises. What Septic Systems Are and How They Work The alarm works in conjunction with the septic system to alert you when the water level within the pump tank has increased to an unsafe level or has decreased to an unsafe level.

The timer is in charge of regulating the time intervals during which the pump is permitted to pump wastewater into the drainage system.

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Thus, during periods of excessive water use, the drain field is kept from getting overflowing, which might cause damage to the drainage system.

A large amount of water is injected into the system in between pumping cycles for whatever cause, and the water has nowhere else to go but back into the system’s pump tank.

Depending on how much water was and continues to be put into the system and how the pump is set up to operate on a timer, it may take many pumping cycles until the water levels are returned to normal. Causes of the alarm going off in the first place

  1. There is an excessive amount of water being put into the septic system. This is the result of excessive water use, which might be caused by multiple loads of laundry, an excessive quantity of dishwashing, or a disproportionate number of long showers.
  1. Somehow, groundwater is making its way into the system. If there is an excessive amount of standing water surrounding the septic tanks, whether generated by rain or another source, the water may seep into the tanks and cause the internal water level to rise.
  1. It’s possible that one of the components of the septic system is malfunctioning. If anything goes wrong with your system — including the pump and floats — the alarm and timer will go off and the septic system will stop working correctly.

The Best Thing to Do If Your Alarm Goes Off Alternatively, if you hear an alert, you should press the red button or turn on the alarm box. The alarm will be turned off as a result of this action. There should be a red light and a green light on the alarm box, which should be situated someplace on the unit. The green light indicates that the alarm is operational and should be left on at all times. It is shown by a red light if the alarm is getting a signal from the pump tank indicating that the water level is increasing above or decreasing below what is expected.

  1. If the breaker occurs to be tripped, look around the septic tanks to see if there is any standing water.
  2. It is possible that the red light on the alarm box will go out on its own after allowing the septic system to operate for a couple of pump cycles (which should take approximately 10-15 hours).
  3. If the red light turns off, it signifies that the system is operating properly and that it only needs to catch up with the extra water that has overflowed into the storage tank.
  4. To be clear, an alarm signal from the septic system does not always imply that sewage is about to back up into the house right away.
  5. Do you require septic system repair on a regular basis or emergency service?
  6. Want to learn more about septic systems?

Dig the Correct Cover

Here are a few pointers to assist you in locating and digging the proper cover for your septic tank:

  • Locate the 4′′ sewage pipe that runs from your toilet and shower to the exterior wall of your home. It should be visible. Most of the time, your tank is 8 to 15 feet from the place where the sewer pipe exits
  • Perhaps you have seen an area outdoors where snow melts each winter
  • Most of the time, this location is within the 8 to 15-foot range. This is an excellent place to begin. To identify the four corners of the tank, probe the ground with an abar and mark the locations. A septic tank measures roughly 8 feet long by 5 feet broad and is covered with three different types of coverings. Some tanks, on the other hand, are longer and made of plastic, making them more difficult to spot. Our company, Maine SepticPumping, requests that you find and excavate the center cover in order for us to thoroughly clean and remove any sediments from your tank. If you have a septic system that includes a pump, you should exercise caution. Unground electrical wire will be present, and it is possible that it could pose a hazard. You should also find and dig the cover for your pump chamber so that it can be pumped at the time of our service
  • If you are experiencing sluggish drains and the digging is relatively simple, you can try excavating all of the tank covers. All of the covers being removed would allow us to inspect your input region and eliminate any sediments that may be blocking the passage of the water. This also allows us to view your outlet baffle clearly, allowing us to ensure that it is secure. If you have any questions when trying to locate your tank, please contact our office. MaineSepticPumping can also assist you in locating and digging your cover.

How to Locate Your Septic Tank

It may seem impossible to imagine that one of the largest and most visible elements of your whole plumbing system is also one of the most difficult to locate, but when your property is served by a septic system, this is perfectly true. A strong explanation for this is because septic tanks are huge, unattractive, stink horrible and give off an unwarranted impression of dirt. Not only does burying them underground assist to prevent them from harm, but it also provides you with additional useable space on your property and conceals what would otherwise be a blight on your landscape.

This site is dedicated to assisting you in locating your septic system without the need for any time-consuming digging.

How To Find A Septic Tank: Step By Step

It is critical to maintain the health of your septic tank since it is responsible for securely storing and handling the wastewater that drains from your house. It is necessary to pump your septic tank once every 1-3 years, depending on the number of people living in your household and the size of your tank, in order to avoid septic tank repairs or early failure, which means you must be familiar with the location of your tank. It’s not often simple to identify your septic tank, and many plumbers charge extra for this service, which is especially true if your tank’s lid is buried beneath.

1. Gather Some Helpful Tools

Septic tank location may be made much easier with the use of several simple instruments and techniques. To locate your septic tank, you only need to know the following information: A soil probe is one of the most useful instruments for locating a septic tank. It is a tiny piece of metal that is used to puncture through the earth and detect anything that could be buried underneath. Start at the point where your sewage line exits your home and work your way straight out, inserting your soil probe every two feet along the way.

Using this method, you may also locate the cover for your septic tank.

While we highly advise keeping your cover clean and exposed in the event that you require emergency septic service, we recognize that this is not always the case.

2. Use a Septic Tank Map

When looking for a septic tank, one of the most useful instruments is a soil probe, which is a small piece of metal that pierces into the earth and rapidly locates any subterranean structures that could be there. Begin at the area where your sewer line exits your home and work your way straight out, inserting your soil probe every two feet. Ideally, your septic tank should be located between 5 and 25 feet away from your house. Using this method, you can easily identify the cover for your septic tank.

Keeping your cover clean and exposed in the case of an emergency septic service is highly recommended, and yet not everyone follows this recommendation.

3. Start Ruling Areas Out

The location of a septic tank cannot be constructed in specific areas due to the risk of causing major damage to your property or tank, as specified by local rules. Your septic tank will not be affected by the following:

  • Immediately adjacent to your well
  • Beneath your home
  • Directly against your home
  • For example, underneath your driveway
  • Under trees
  • And other locations. Structures like a patio or deck are good examples of this.

4. Inspect Your Property

If you take a hard look around your land, there’s a high possibility you’ll be able to locate your septic tank without having to do any probing whatsoever. In many circumstances, a septic tank may be identified by a slight dip or slope on your land that cannot be explained by any other means. Due to the fact that the hole that your contractors excavated for your septic tank may not have been exactly the proper size, they proceeded to install the tank anyhow. This is a rather regular occurrence.

When there is a minor divot or depression, it indicates that the hole was too large and that your contractors simply did not fill the depression to level the hole.

The likelihood of your septic tank being discovered in a few specific locations is quite high. Because of code issues or just because it doesn’t make sense, it’s highly unlikely that your septic tank will be located near any of the following locations:

  • Your water well, if you have one (for a variety of reasons that are rather clear)
  • Any paved surfaces (it won’t be under a patio, sidewalk, or driveway unless they were added after the home was built and no one performed a proper inspection before it was built)
  • Any paved surfaces (it won’t be under a driveway, sidewalk, or patio unless they were added after the home was built and no one conducted a proper inspection before it was built)
  • Any paved surfaces (it won’t be under a patio, sidewalk, or driveway unless they were added after the home was built If there is any particular landscaping

5. Inspect Your Yard

A comprehensive investigation of your yard may be necessary to discover your septic tank considerably more quickly in some cases. The following are important items to check for in your yard:

  • If your septic tank is overfilled, sewage can leak out into the ground and function as fertilizer for your lawn, resulting in lush green grass. A area of grass that is very lush and green is a good sign that your septic tank is just beneath it
  • Puddles that don’t make sense: If your septic tank is seriously overfilled, it is possible that water will pool on your grass. Another telltale indicator that your septic tank is below ground level is an unexplainable pool of water. Ground that is uneven: When installing septic tanks, it is possible that the contractors will mistakenly create high or low patches on your grass. If you come across any uneven terrain, it’s possible that your septic tank is right there.

The metal soil probe can let you find out for certain whether or not your septic tank is located in a certain area of your yard or not. As soon as your metal soil probe makes contact with the tank, you may use your shovel to dig out the grass surrounding it and discover the septic tank lid.

6. Follow Your Sewer Main/Sewer Pipes

Following your sewage lines is one of the most straightforward methods of locating your septic tank. These pipes have a diameter of roughly 4 inches and are commonly found in the basement or crawlspace of your house. They are not dangerous. Following the pipes from your house out into your yard, using your metal soil probe every 2 feet or so until you reach the tank, is a simple process once they are located. Aside from that, every drain in your home is connected to your sewage main, which in turn is connected to your septic tank.

The likelihood that one of your major sewer lines is located in your basement or crawlspace is high if you have exposed plumbing lines in your basement or crawlspace.

If the line is labeled, it is usually made of plastic or rubber.

7. Check Your Property Records

Lastly, if all else fails, a search of your property’s public records will almost certainly reveal the location of the tank you’re looking for. Your builders most likely secured a permit for your property because septic systems are required to be installed by law in every state. In order to do so, they had to develop a thorough plan that depicted your property as well as the exact location where they intended to construct the tank. This is done to ensure that the local health department is aware of the tank and is prepared to deal with any issues that may arise as a result of its presence.

If you look hard enough, you may be able to locate the original building records for your home without ever having to get in your car or visit your local records center.

What to Do Once You Find Your Septic Tank

Upon discovering the position of your septic tank, you should mark its location on a map of your property. Use something to indicate the location of your lid, such as an attractive garden item that can’t be changed, to help you locate it. A birdbath, a rock, or a potted plant are just a few of the possibilities.

You are now ready to arrange your septic tank inspection and pumping service. Contact us now! If you have any more concerns regarding how to locate your septic tank, or if you want septic tank servicing, please contact The Plumbing Experts at (864) 210-3127 right now!

Can’t remove septic tank lid

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Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Hi, first post here. This issue may have come up before but I wasn’t able to find it using the Search feature.I’ve got a two-chamber concrete septic tank. The previous owners used to pump out the tank by removing only the lid on the inlet-side chamber. Now the concrete lid on the outlet-side chamber can’t be removed. The septic serviceman said that it hadn’t been removed in so long, the concrete had “re-set”. The way he explained it, irrigation and rain water soak through the soil, then get into the concrete, and over time form a bond. He also said that you can’t pump/clean/inspect the tank properly without removing that lid. Naturally, I called up the previous owner, but he had a different story. I wanted to get some impartial advice to find out who was right, so here goes:1. The previous owner didn’t think it was necessary to remove the outlet-side cover. He said the septic pumping company was able to put their hose in over the baffle and pump out the outlet-side chamber. I’m no expert but I don’t see how that’s possible, given the size and flexibility of the hose, and the extremely limited visibility with the hose in the hole. Is it possible to properly pump out the tank removing only the inlet-side lid? If so, how?2. If the answer to the first question is that you truly need to remove the outlet-side lid, what is the best way to solve the problem of the “re-set” concrete in the lid? The tank is located close to my house, beneath a lawn with sprinkler lines (both water and electrical) cleverly running right over the tank. Not the best choice on the part of the installer but naturally I want to minimize the excavation in that area.In case the options are specific to location, I’m located in Northern Colorado.Thanks!
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)what are you using to lift the lid? I have never had a problem even when the lid was set with mortar.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)The lid has what looks like a curved piece of re-bar set into it. The septic service guy was prying up on that with something, I didn’t see exactly what he was doing. Then he took a digging bar and started chipping away little pieces at the seam between the tank top and the lid, then tried prying up in that little space. After doing that unsuccessfully he said the concrete had “re-set”.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:mm (MD)Fasten a chain to the lid handle and then wrap and tie it off around a digging bar that is held horizontally 2-3 feet above the tank.Have someone (a helper?) apply upward leverage on the bar against the ground while you take a second digging bar and, using the hammer end, gently but firmly pound on the outer edge of the concrete lid.It will come up.The lids are often set in tar to seal them against water seepage into the tank so they are tight, but it will release.Edited 1 times.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Thanks, m m. Now that you mention that, I remember the septic service guy talking about that briefly, and also a variation using a jack to apply the force. He said he thought since it had been so long since it was last removed, the re-bar would break out of the concrete before the lid came up. I know that the previous owner had not removed it since 1995. Don’t know about the owner before that, but he might not have taken it off since it was installed in 1978!There was no tar or tar paper visible in the chipped-away sections. some sort of barrier seems like an obvious step for anyone who installs these things for a living, but it looks like it was omitted in this case.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)I usually call a tow truck and use his hook in that rebar.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)A couple of log splitting wedges between the lid and the tank will also help.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:mm (MD)”A couple of log splitting wedges between the lid and the tank will also help”.About all they’ll help in doing is to obliterate the lid.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)The lid is about 8″ thick, it is not going to be “obliterated” unless it is completely deteriorated.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Thanks for all the replies so far, about how to free up the stuck lid.Anyone for the first question? Is it possible to properly pump out the tank removing only the inlet-side lid? If so, how?Thank you.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:Paul48 (CT)Logically.Why would they put 2 access holes if one was enough?
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)It appears that there are NO access holes just two halves of the lid. The center baffle doesn’t comeup the bottom of the lid so they just stick the hose into the other side.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:FrontRanger (CO)Re: It appears that there are NO access holes just two halves of the lid. The center baffle doesn’t come up the bottom of the lid so they just stick the hose into the other side.-Perhaps I’ve been using the wrong terminology. What I meant by “lid” was a roughly 18″x18″ opening in the top of the tank, i.e., the covering for the access hole.Re: Why would they put 2 access holes if one was enough?-The same track that my mind took. The question arose from the claim of the previous owner that one was sufficient, and that the hose could be put over the baffle into the outlet-side chamber. My skepticism comes from imagining a stiff 4″ hose maneuvering down a hole, over the baffle, and then into the other chamber. Two access holes would certainly make it more convenient. My question is, can it be done properly using only the one on the inlet-side?Thanks again for your time.
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Re: Can’t remove septic tank lid
Author:hj (AZ)18 x 18 ports are NOT the same as two tank halves. It would be difficult to put the hose across, IF you have a center baffle. In this case there may not be one and everything can be done from a single port.
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How to Cover a Septic Tank Lid

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How to find your Septic Tank Cover in 3 Steps

Home-Diy When dealing with something as enormous as a septic tank, it should be simple to keep track of things, but in reality, the reverse is frequently true. If your bird has been resting in your yard for several years without being disturbed, the dirt above it has settled and the ground cover successfully camouflages it, making identifying one a bit of detective work. When the length of the sources is equal to zero, this.parentNode.removeChild(sources); otherwise, this.onerror = null; this.src = fallback; )(, arguments.target.currentSrc.replace(), ‘, /public/images/logo-fallback.png’) ” loading=”lazy”> ” loading=”lazy”> It might be difficult to locate a septic tank, regardless of its size.

You should, however, be able to complete the task without exhausting yourself with a shovel if you follow the process of logical inference and use two useful instruments.

  • Design a floor plan for your property
  • Metal detector, shovel and a 6-foot piece of rebar are all necessary tools for this project.

Tip

It is common for septic tanks to have two lids, one for cleaning the tank and another for repairing and maintaining the pump. If you don’t find the one you’re looking for, use the metal detector to locate the other one you’re looking for. If you are unable to locate a site plan, locate the sewer clean out and excavate to determine which way the sewage flows. Starting in that direction, begin probing with the re-bar until you come upon the tank.

Warning

You should immediately cease pounding at the bar when you find resistance. If your tank is made of plastic, you run the risk of damaging it. A short distance away will reveal if you have merely discovered a rock or whether you have encountered anything more substantial.

  1. Consult a site plan for your property that indicates where the tank will be located before installing it. If you don’t have one on hand, you may check it up in the records of the county building department, where the contractor who installed it was obligated to submit a copy of the certificate. Take note of the relative orientations of the tank and your house, as well as the distance between the tank and the side of your house where the sewer leaves. The sewage clean-out on the side of your property should be located and measured in the direction that it is intended to flow into the tank. Start probing for the tank at that point by pushing a 6-foot piece of re-bar into the earth with a sledge hammer to determine its location. Immediately after hitting an impediment, stop hammering and start excavating a foot or two farther down the road. a) Continue doing this until you can drive the re-bar even farther into the tank, which indicates that you have reached the end of the tank. In this manner, locate and mark the ends of the tank on both sides. To locate the cover, run a metal detector over the area you marked out with a marker. It is often made of metal, or at the very least contains metal components. In addition, if the tank is equipped with an effluent pump, which is always positioned beneath the lid, the metal detector will detect this as well. Starting at the location where you receive a favourable reading, begin digging.

The Drip Cap

  • When dealing with something as enormous as a septic tank, it should be simple to keep track of everything, yet the contrary is frequently true
  • If your plant has been lying in your yard for several years without being disturbed, the dirt above it has settled and the ground cover successfully conceals it, making identifying it a detective’s task. In order to locate the cover, use a metal detector to search the area you laid out. It is often made of metal, or at the very least contains metal components.

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