How To Seal A Septic Tank Riser? (Solution)

Seal the riser to the septic tank using the patch mix. You may finish sealing by adding Bentonite or casing sealer around the base, filling in gaps as needed. Make sure you then carefully secure the riser lid with the screws provided to avoid a safety hazard! All risers must be completely sealed to the septic tank.

How do you insulate a septic tank riser?

How to Insulate Septic Tank Risers

  1. Remove soil around the septic tank riser with the excavator.
  2. Measure the circumference of the riser and cut the insulation to this measurement with a sharp knife.
  3. Apply the adhesive to the insulation to the insulation and to the riser material.
  4. Wrap the insulation around the riser.

Should septic tank lid be sealed?

Like wells, septic systems have problems if they are not sealed from outside surface water. Most septic systems rely on buried pipes to get rid of the fluids. The lid covers should fit tightly — if they don’t, a company that specializes in septic repairs should be called to fix them.

What do you use to seal a septic tank?

The butyl sealant rope is used to seal the tank adapter ring to concrete, plastic, or fiberglass septic tanks. This can also be used as a sealant between riser sections that do not have an existing gasket.

How do you secure a septic tank lid?

Keep the lids secure by repairing or replacing all damaged or missing parts. Use bolts, screws, or other locks to secure the lids and prevent easy access. Never drive or park vehicles on top of septic systems – it can damage or dislodge the cover.

How do you backfill a septic tank?

Backfill evenly all around tank using a sand / gravel mixture. b. Mound soil over septic tank in order to drain away from tank and allow for settling soil. 6” of native soil may be used for mounding.

Do septic tank risers need to be insulated?

In general, if the top is 2 feet or more below grade, insulation over the tank is not necessary. But remember, the risers and riser lids do need insulation. If the depth is less than 2 feet, the tank should be insulated.

Do septic tank blankets work?

When to Use Frost Blankets Your septic tank will be sufficiently insulated. An added feature of frost blankets is that they are waterproof and snowproof. They can hold snow, which will create an added layer of insulation over the tank. No matter what conditions are above ground, your septic tank is covered!

Can a septic holding tank freeze?

Water holds a great deal of heat, and with daily use, septic tanks rarely freeze, even in the coldest weather. However, when the house is vacant for a week or more, water does not enter the tank to keep it warm and it may freeze. Often, water will freeze in the distribution boxes for the drainfield laterals.

Why is my septic tank always full?

An overfilled septic tank is often a signal that your drain field is malfunctioning. The drain field is the final fixture in the septic system and serves the purpose of returning treated effluent back into the soil.

How do you fix a crack in a concrete septic tank?

To repair large cracks, your septic repair technician will pump out and clean the tank. They will let it thoroughly dry and then apply concrete crack filler to the cracks. Finally, once cured, then the tank can safely be used again.

Installing Access Risers

In order to perform fundamental septic system maintenance, you must first evaluate the condition of your septic tank and pump chamber (if you have one), which can be time-consuming and labor-intensive if you do not have access ports known as risers. Consider the prospect of having to dig through two feet of dirt to check the oil on your vehicle. Installing septic tank risers for an off-site septic system is broken down into four steps, which are outlined below. Please keep in mind that the currentWashington State Coderequiresrisers for all septic systems, which means you may be forced to install one if you are asking for a construction permit, land division, or any other type of official action in the state.

A few safety tips before you get started:

  • Struck by an underground electrical wire while excavating may be quite dangerous! If you are in any way doubtful about the presence of subterranean lines on your property, you can have them found by contacting 1-800-424-5555 or 811, or by visiting the website
  • Use the buddy system to your advantage! Working with a partner is usually recommended since the fumes connected with open sewage can be dangerous and cause a person to go unconscious. Never leave a septic tank that is open unattended! Once the lids have been removed, exercise caution around the tank and keep dogs and children at a safe distance. Examine the structural integrity of your septic tank! If a septic tank is more than 20 years old, it is recommended that it be pumped to ensure that the tank’s structural integrity and water-tightness are not compromised. Instead of spending money on costly repairs, it is preferable to replace the tank with a contemporary septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from your local Environmental Health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank.

Gather all the MaterialsTools You will Need

It should be possible to get most of the components required to construct a septic tank riser at your local plumbing hardware store or on the internet. PVC risers are available in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some of the brand names you might be familiar with include “Tuf-Tite,” “Polylok,” and “Orenco.” Risers are typically 24 inches in diameter and may be readily inserted into the tank hole opening without difficulty. Due to the fact that certain tanks have square openings, it might be difficult to fit a riser around the square entrance.

Some types of risers are made to order based on the height you want, while others are available in increments of 6-12 inches.

Then purchase an Adapter and Risers that are somewhat bigger in diameter than the hole.

See below for Step 4 on attaching risers to the tank entrance.

  1. Tank Adapter Ring (TAR)
  2. Riser Adapter Ring Kit
  3. Butyl Rope
  4. Risers
  5. Domed Lid OR Flat Lid
  6. Stainless Steel Screws

The following materials will be required for digging up your septic tank(s):

  1. As-built condition of the sewage treatment system The following items are required: sketch on paper, measuring tape, shovel, probing instrument, eye protection, and work gloves.

To cut risers to the proper size, the following tools are required:

  1. Circular saws, saber/jig saws, and hand saws
  2. Raspor file
  3. Marking pen
  4. Tape measure
  5. Drill with a 1/4″ bit

Materials required to seal the risers to the tank include:

  1. High-strength concrete patch mix
  2. A small bucket
  3. A mixing stick
  4. And gloves

Follow the four simple procedures shown below to install access risers on your septic components, or download and print a copy of theSeptic Tank Manhole and Access Riser Installationbrochure from Thurston County Environmental Health to get started right now.

Step 1: LocateYour Septic Tank(s)

When looking for your underground septic tank or tanks, it is essential to consult the ‘As-built’ Record Drawing linked with your septic system for assistance. Essentially, this is a plot diagram that shows where your septic system was put on your property, as well as distances between septic components and notable landmarks. The Online Permit System will guide you through the process of locating septic-related documentation if you do not have a “as-built” document. It is possible that you may need to contact Environmental Health to examine the paper records or seek a specialist to find your tank if an as-built is not accessible.

Probing the area around the septic tank with the probing instrument until you contact concrete should be done lightly.

The presence of underground electricity or other utility lines and cables might put your septic tank in danger.

If you run into a power line, the consequences could be fatal. Call 1-800-424-5555 or 811 or go online to make sure that any electrical utilities are found before you begin digging before you begin digging.

Step 2: Uncover Your Septic Tank (s)

Once you’ve discovered your septic tank, you may start digging about. The tank is typically 6 feet wide by 8 feet long, with the width being the largest size. Remove all of the pebbles and debris from around the tank’s lid openings and dig out the whole top of the tank. You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. This will assist you in ensuring that you generate a high-quality seal. You should have two openings: one over the inlet (which comes from the home) and another over the outlet (which comes from the yard) (into the drainfield or pump chamber).

  • You’ll need a riser for each of the doors you open.
  • Typically, the inlet side is the one that is nearest to the home.
  • When cleaning the tank, it is beneficial to remove the complete top of the tank.
  • Risers must be modified in order to be correctly installed, and all manholes (holes 24 inches or bigger in diameter or square in shape) must also be updated, as well as the tankinlet and outlet baffle covers (if separate from the manholes).
  • If you discover one – and only one – riser already installed, it is most likely for the pump chamber, which only requires a single riser to provide access to the pump to function properly.
  • Remove the concrete lids so that they may be disposed when the project is completed.
  • Consult your’As-built’Recorddrawing to establish whether you have a distribution box (D-box), which you will also need to unearth and place a riser on if you have a typical gravity system.
  • Once the lids have been removed, proceed with caution around the tank.
  • Inform someone of your whereabouts in case you are involved in an accident.

You should be aware that exposure to sewage can result in serious sickness, so make sure you wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands afterward with soap and water. It is also recommended that you wear eye protection in the event that debris falls into a tank and splashes back at you.

Step 3: Fit Risers to Component Openings

In accordance with the diameter of the septic tank manholes, huge risers will either sit on top of the septic tank or will fit down into the aperture of the tank by 1-3 inches. It’s important to keep this in mind while calculating the height of the riser. The surplus can be easily removed; nevertheless, it is difficult to add a few inches to the length. Take the following measurements of the manhole cover’s diameter:

  • Theriser will fit into the tank hole if the aperture is between 26 and 29 inches in diameter. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of the septic tank and multiply the measurement by three inches. The following is required if the aperture is greater than 29 inches: a 3-foot square fiberglass plate (with a 22-inch hole in the middle) is required. In this case, it lies above the manhole and narrows the aperture, allowing a 24-inch riser to be utilized instead of a more expensive 30-inch riser, saving money.

The distance between the ground and the top of the fiberglass plate should be measured. You may choose to place the risers so that they are level with the surface of the ground, or you may want them to stand out a few inches above the ground (if a riser is above ground make sure you are careful when mowing). Tips: To shorten a big riser with ribs, drill a 1/4-inch hole between the ribs above the cut line and finish the cut by following one of the grooves between the ribs with a saber/jig saw to finish the cut.

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By eliminating one of the ribs from the largeriser, it may be made to fit more snugly into a smaller manhole entrance.

Step 4: Attach Risers toSeptic Tank (s)

It is recommended to pump out an old septic tank that is 20 years or older in order to check its structural integrity and water-tightness before using it again. If the tank requires extensive repairs, it is preferable to replace it with a new septic tank that includes risers as part of the installation. A permit from the local health department is required for the replacement of a septic tank. Remove any dirt and debris from the tank’s surface by cleaning it off. Using the butyl rope, construct the components of the risers in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

  1. Jet-Set, Rapid-Set, Thorough-Set, and Perco-Plug are just a few of the brand names available.
  2. NOTE: For optimal results, just a little amount of concrete patch should be mixed at a time.
  3. The patch mix should be used to seal the riser to the septic tank.
  4. If you want to avoid a safety danger, make sure you properly attach theriser lid using the screws that come with it!
  5. Risers for inlet or outlet apertures that are smaller than the openings should have the bottom few inches sanded with rough sandpaper to allow a firmer connection between the two surfaces.
  6. A useful source of information on correct installation of risers on septic tanks may be found at your local hardware store where you purchased the risers and covers.

Thurston County Environmental Health is should be commended for providing the foundation for this documentation.

Butyl Sealing Rope for Tuf-Tite and Polylok Septic Tank Risers 5/16″ x 20′ (20ft long) – – Amazon.com

On September 3, 2021, a review was published in the United States, confirming the purchase. This product is excellent for sealing Tuf-Tite riser extensions. The “rope” is completely aligned with the groove of the extension. However, it is quite sticky, and you will want a solvent to wipe your hands after handling it. This was available for roughly $7 at a local supply store, but they were out of stock. So I spent $19 for this, which is effectively $7 plus $12 for “free” Prime delivery, for a total of $19.

  • The length was just right for wrapping around the grooves of four 24″ Tuf-tite risers or adapters without overlapping.
  • However, I would not recommend this product for the bottom seal of an adapter ring, such as on a concrete tank or a concrete ring, because of the potential for failure.
  • You will need to acquire butyl rubber rope that is approximately 3/4″ to 1″ in diameter that is used to seal concrete pipe rings in order to ensure a perfect seal.
  • I purchased this product to be used as a seal for an expansion of our manhole to a small septic tank.
  • It was simple to glue the paper on the hard plastic and much simpler to cut away what you didn’t need.
  • I believe the pricing is reasonable, considering that you get a substantial amount of it.
  • This, as opposed to the other crap you find in stores, will most surely outlast the rest.

Verified Purchase on November 14, 2016 in the United States of America The tape worked nicely for securing the lid; however, one roll will seal many more lids than one.

Because it behaves similarly to rope caulk, you may “roll” it thinner.

I wish I had known that before I placed my purchase for two rolls.

Purchase that has been verified This size is ideal for fitting between risers and between riser and base.

Exam gloves or other disposable gloves should be used.

(There are three circumferences).

Another 20′ of larger butyl tape was used to seal the gap between the base and the cement tank top.

When executing this dreaded activity, I no longer have to be concerned about the obligation to guess, dig, and backfill.

Because the item arrived considerably sooner than planned, I was able to complete the installation of my septic riser before the rain came.

Rubber gloves are recommended if you need to shape the butyl or press into gaps because they will prevent the butyl from clinging to your fingers and peeling away.

When installing Tuf-Tite products, this is a requirement.

However, it adheres to everything, so be cautious about what you come into contact with when using this product. It adheres to grass, leaves, and soil. And you’re not going to be able to get these things off your sealing rope. Simply break off the contaminated portion and begin with a clean piece.

Septic tank risers – DoItYourself.com Community Forums

Every time it rains, my risers allow ground water to seep into the storage tanks. A flow of gallons per minute is being pumped into the tanks through the gap between the existing risers, and the level is rising by one inch every twenty minutes. One of the firms I spoke with stated that they will replace my old risers with the Seal-R system that was previously mentioned. There are two issues with this for me:

  • According to the instructions, expanding foam should be used to seal the riser to the ring. They make use of top-notch materials. I contacted Dow Chemical and inquired as to whether or not it was an appropriate application for the foam, and they informed me that it was not. Because of the ridges on the riser, they believe it would degrade underground in this manner and that it was not intended for that function. It is possible that the earth will freeze and heave or expand, causing the riser to be pulled away from the tank. This has the potential to cause your seal to malfunction.

To be fair, the firm that manufactures Seal-R claims that they have been installing them this way with no difficulties since 1998 and that they have never had a problem. And they’re in Minnesota, where the earth freezes solid in the winter. I’m still a little apprehensive, though. I’ve had to empty my tank totally five times already this year, and I don’t want to have to deal with it again in the future. I considered continuing to utilize the foam, but covering it with hydraulic cement to provide a layer of protection, or maybe applying rubberized tar first, and then concrete on top of it.

However, it is still ribbed, which I do not appreciate given that I am in a region that would freeze.

The sides of the risers are smooth and have no sharp edges.

I have no idea what I’m doing on there right now, but they are plainly not working.

How To Instal Risers On A Septic Tank

A septic tank riser system will be installed today, and we will demonstrate how to do it. If you have a concrete septic tank that does not have risers built, this instruction is for you. It is currently mandatory in many areas to have risers and lids installed on your septic tank. When it comes time to have your septic system pumped out, installing a riser system can also save you money. Please follow the instructions in the following section and you will have no difficulties.

Step 1 – Gather The Parts You Need

The following things will be required for the installation of a riser system on your septic tank. (Click on the item to make a purchase.) Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter Ring (optional) (TAR) 2)Riser Adapter Rings Kit (includes riser adapter rings) Butyl Rope (number three) Tip-Tite Risers are a type of tie-down device. 5)Tuf-Tite Domed Lid (optional). ORTuf-Tite Flat Lid (Ortuf-Tite Flat Lid) 6) Screws made of stainless steel Keep in mind that you will have to determine the size of the hole in your septic tank.

Consider this: If the hole in your septic system is 22 inches across at its widest point, you will need to purchase the 24 inch Tank Adapter Ring, 24 inch Risers, and 24 inch Lid.

Step 2 – Clean The Top Of Your Septic Tank

You will want to clean out any dirt that has accumulated on the surface of your septic tank. In doing so, you will increase the likelihood of successfully creating a good seal. A concrete ring is seen on the left side of the image. Using this as an example, we will illustrate how to install a riser system. In order to offer a visual picture of a hole in a concrete septic tank, the following image was created.

The diameter of this one is 16 inches. It is possible that your hole is bigger or smaller. If you have a square hole, this will function in the same way as well. Remember to measure the hole diagonally before purchasing the appropriate Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter Ring.

Step 3 – Apply Butyl Rope To Tank Adapter Ring

To secure your Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter ring to the bottom of your tank, tie a butyl rope ring around it. This will aid in the creation of a water-tight seal. Make sure the butyl stretches all the way around the Adapter Ring before you tighten it.

Step 4 – Put Adapter Ring Around Hole And Screw It Down

Firmly push the Tuf-Tite Tank Adapter Ring onto the septic tank’s adapter ring to secure it. To begin drilling the holes, use the drill bit that included with the package. The Adapter Ring will have divots in the areas where the holes will be located. Once you have pre-drilled the holes, you may use the blue concrete tapping screws that are provided to secure the ring to the top of your installation system.

Step 5 – Add Butyl Rope To The Bottom Of Each Riser

The bottom of each riser will have a recessed ring in the center. In this ring, insert a strip of butyl rope and tighten it. This will ensure that the risers are watertight.

Step 6 – Put Risers and Lids On The Adapter Ring

Now it’s time to attach your risers to your Adapter Ring. Their installation will be accomplished by screwing them into place using stainless steel screws. In order to raise it to the proper height, you can use as many risers as necessary. That’s all there is to it. You have completed the installation of a riser system on your septic tank, which should pass inspection anyplace in the United States of America.

Septic Riser & Lid Repair Statesville

Sewage Tank Risers and Lids or Lids are intended to be used in conjunction with existing concrete, fiberglass, or metal septic tank covers. Septic Risers are meant to raise the level of a septic tank’s below-grade opening to the same level as or higher than the surrounding ground. Risers are frequently absent from typical septic tanks, particularly in earlier types, and are thus difficult to find. The diameter of risers typically ranges from 8 to 24 inches. Septic tank riser installation services are provided by Lentz Wastewater Inc.

The aperture of the riser is protected by a tight-fitting lid.

Do I Need a Septic Tank Riser?

A septic tank riser system is an extremely beneficial addition to your septic system and is highly suggested by experts. This device will make the process of maintaining and monitoring your septic system more easier, more convenient, and less expensive. Septic tank risers that have been authorized by the state of North Carolina must be put on any new or updated septic system in the state. Your septic system is one of the most expensive mechanical elements on your property.

It is also one of the most complicated. It is also one of the least watched and least understood systems that you have in your possession, as well. If you don’t have septic tank risers, your system will be “out of sight and out of mind” for a long time.

Advantages of Septic Tank Risers

  • Rising and covering septic tanks in the modern day are significantly more aesthetically pleasing and mix in with their environment
  • The lightweight septic cover makes it simple to get access to the septic tank. The contemporary covers are lightweight, weighing less than 10 pounds, which makes maintaining your tank considerably simpler. The old-fashioned concrete septic tank riser rings are quite heavy, weighing hundreds of pounds. The concrete coverings are similarly heavy, weighing between 60 and 80 pounds. Many individuals are deterred from lifting the cover and doing an inspection because of the weight of the object. Septic tank riser rings made of modern polyethylene are often less than 30 pounds in weight. Septic tank risers also have the advantage of making it considerably easier to prevent surface water from entering the tank. In the olden days, concrete riser rings were not equipped with a gasket. As a result, surface water may readily flow between the connection between the tank and the riser ring, as well as between the lid and the riser ring, when the tank is filled with water. Nowadays, a watertight seal is installed between the septic tank and the base flange of the riser. The riser rings and covers are also equipped with a long-lasting closed-cell foam gasket to keep the junction between them from becoming leaky. To keep little children from curiously messing with the cover and putting themselves in danger of falling into the septic tank, modern riser covers are fastened with threaded screws.
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Want to stop digging up your yard every time you need to have your septic system cleaned, repaired, or re-filled with water? Do you despise having to lift and carry incredibly big concrete lids on your shoulders? It appears that you require septic tank risers to raise your access to ground level, as well as a lightweight, easily removable access cover. Our septic tank risers and covers are constructed of high-quality, heavy-duty polyethylene plastic, which allows them to be both extremely robust and durable while still being lightweight and simple to handle and transport.

Damaged Septic Tank Cover?

In the event that you drive over your septic tank, which is not suggested at all, the cover or lid may be damaged. Lentz Wastewater fixed septic riser covers that were broken, damaged, or mi ssing.

How to Install Risers and Lids on Concrete Septic Tanks w/ Square Hole

Posted on the web by Installing risers and lids will make it much easier to get access to the septic tank for inspection, repairs, and pumping. There is an up-front expense, but that cost can be compensated over time by the cost of locating and digging every time you require access to the tank, which can add up over time. Determine the height of the riser. Tank risers are normally installed around 3 inches above the ground’s surface temperature. Having the lid at ground level will make it simpler to locate; however, some people prefer to have the lid a few of inches below ground level so that it is easier to mow over and less noticeable while in use.

  1. The height that is chosen is entirely a matter of personal taste.
  2. Begin by digging all the way down to the tank, cleaning and preparing the area surrounding the existing hole to the best of your ability.
  3. Attach the tank adapter ring to the tank using stainless steel concrete anchors after applying the butyl sealant tape to the bottom of the ring.
  4. Install half of the epoxy on the adapter ring and lower the riser so that it rests on top of the epoxy.
  5. The epoxy and riser are seen in the illustration below.
  6. Use the provided fasteners to attach the lid, as illustrated below.

Sealing septic tank lid.Issues?

I’m having some problems with scents coming from the top of my septic tank lid. Our outside patio area frequently smells strongly after a shower or a flush of the toilet, and sadly, this is the case most of the time. In the hopes of eliminating the cause, I installed charcoal plumbing vent filters in each and every vent on the roof. However, this did not alleviate the problem. As luck would have it, I happened to be outside near the tank when my wife was taking a shower, and I can unequivocally affirm that the lid is the cause of the foul aromas.

  1. (7 years or more) The system and tank are in good condition, and they are examined and pumped out every two years as required.
  2. In this case, the system is a simple two-compartment overflow type precast tank with a gravity leach field attached.
  3. I was thinking about caulking the concrete riser at the top of the tank and then putting a felt or rubber gasket to the bottom of the lid to keep the tank’s contents from escaping.
  4. I would anticipate that this will drive any gases up through the filtered plumbing vents and that there will be no build-up of pressure from the gases as a result of this procedure.

I’d be interested in hearing your thoughts on this. A septic tank explosion is the last thing I want to happen. Thanks.

How to Join Seams on Septic Tanks

Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Sign up now.Onsite Systems+ Receive AlertsMany tanks are manufactured in two sections that are put together either before the tank is shipped or after the tank arrives at the site. Sign up now. The seam may be situated towards the top of the tank (top-seam), or it may be located in the midsection of the tank (mid-seam) (midseam). The seam must be rendered waterproof regardless of where it is located in order for the system to work properly.

Concrete

Prior to the joining of concrete tanks, a butyl rubber or asphalt-based (bituminous) mastic is applied to the seams of the components before they are assembled. Sealant compounds should be manufactured in accordance with ASTM Standard C-990 and AASHTO M198-75B standards, which describe the relative amounts of butyl rubber and fillers that should be utilized in the manufacturing process. The seams that will be bonded should be free of debris and dry. In the event that this is not the case, mastic manufacturers can supply information on primers that can be used in conjunction with their respective products.

  • In this case, liquid rubber is defined as any water-based compound that dries to a “sticky” state. It is an all-season variety that may be used on both wet and dry surfaces.

Mastics should be applied to concrete tanks in a continuous bead to ensure that they are well protected. Two sections of mastic can be joined in several ways. The ends can be overlapped and kneaded together, or the two strands can be carefully butted up to one another, according to different sources. At the end of the day, it is vital to establish a proper joint seal. An elevated rope is preferable than an expanded rope when putting mastic in an open seam. If the temperature of the surrounding environment is below 50 degrees F at the time of installation, the performance of the mastic may be compromised.

  1. Bituminous (tar-based) mastic is extensively used in warmer locations, but it is not recommended for use in colder climes since it has a tendency to break in cooler temperatures.
  2. Temperatures below 40 degrees F should be avoided while joining tank pieces, and precautions should be made to keep the sealant warm, such as keeping it in the truck’s cabin prior to using it.
  3. The size of mastic is currently not standard, and the actual measurement of nominal 1-inch mastic might vary in size to a significant degree depending on the manufacturer.
  4. The geometrical form of the sealant (e.g., 3/4 inch high by 1 inch wide) is specified as the cross-sectional volume of the sealant.
  5. It is also possible to apply a butyl rubber wrap (about 1/8 inch thick and 4 to 12 inches wide) to the seam after the tank halves have been assembled to provide further assurance of watertightness.
  6. Some two-piece nonconcrete tanks may be linked by the installer rather than by the manufacturer as part of the manufacturing process in order to save time and money.

In these circumstances, the installer should adhere to the manufacturer’s guidelines about the materials and installation processes that should be employed.

Fiberglass-reinforced plastic septic tanks

Some fiberglass-reinforced plastic tanks are constructed entirely of one piece of fiberglass. Others are manufactured in two pieces by the use of an injection molding technique. Two-piece fiberglass tanks are frequently delivered unassembled, and they must be properly attached together before being installed. The assembling procedure must be done with care in order to prevent the joint from leaking or separating. In most cases, this is accomplished through the use of proper adhesives and stainless steel bolts.

  1. Pipe penetrations and access riser joints, just like with tanks composed of other materials, must be carefully sealed to ensure that they do not leak and cause damage.
  2. a little about the author: Sara Heger, Ph.D., is an engineer, researcher, and lecturer in the Onsite Sewage Treatment Program at the University of Minnesota’s Water Resources Center.
  3. She has presented at several local and national training events on topics such as the design, installation, and administration of septic systems, as well as research in the related field.
  4. Send an email to [email protected] if you have any concerns concerning septic system care and operation.

Septic Tanks Risers- Bring Your Access To Ground Level

Getting a little tired of having to dig up your yard every time your septic tank has to be pumped out or serviced? Are you getting tired of dealing with incredibly hefty concrete lids? It appears that you are in need of septic tank risers in order to bring your access down to ground level! Our septic tank risers and covers are constructed of high-quality, heavy-duty polyethylene plastic, which makes them extremely sturdy and durable while also being lightweight and simple to handle.

THE POLYLOK ADVANTAGE

Septic tank risers are available in a variety of shapes, sizes, and designs on the current market. We believe our Polylok septic tank risers are the best money can buy in terms of quality. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:

FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS

The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight!

Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.

INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS

Once the hole has been backfilled, the structural ribs in the Polylok septic tank risers are inserted inside around each riser piece, providing them with tremendous strength and allowing them to maintain their shape under the pressure of the earth being pressed on them. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.

LIDS WITH HANDLES

The access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise maintained. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it. The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.

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LARGE ADAPTER RING

An adapter ring is required in order to properly install septic tank risers on your septic tank. We have one of the largest adapter rings available on the market, allowing you to cover up to a 25″ square or 27″ circular aperture with a Polylok adapter ring. This ring fits both 20″ and 24″ risers, allowing you to have a great deal of versatility no matter what size your opening happens to be!

GET OUT YOUR MEASURING STICK!

A few measures must be taken before purchasing a septic tank riser system in order to ensure proper installation. The first thing to consider is the size of your opening. Take a measurement of the aperture in your septic tank at its widest point to determine the size of your tank. Instead than measuring the present lid, it’s critical to measure the opening. Because you will be removing the present cover, the measurements of the lid are no longer important and may differ from the size of the aperture itself.

You are now prepared to make a purchase based on these two measures!

THE COMPLETE RISER SYSTEM

We have a large selection of components from which you may pick to create your own own full riser system. Our many various options offer our product the adaptability to be utilized in virtually any application, but they may also be a bit daunting when attempting to pick which components to buy for a certain application. Each component is discussed in further depth below.

ADAPTER RINGS

The adapter ring is the first component that you’ll need to put together in order to assemble a full riser system. The adapter ring attaches directly to the septic tank, allowing the risers to stack, lock, and mount to it without the need for any additional hardware. Having this component is critical since the risers are not flat on the bottom because they are meant to be stackable, and it is not feasible to install them straight to the septic tank without this piece. The adapter ring provides the flat surface you need to mount to the tank while also being able to accommodate the stackable risers that are included with the tank.

Our square tank adapter ring can accommodate big square apertures up to 25 inches in diameter and large round openings up to 27 inches in diameter.

They are intended to be used with openings that are 24″ or less in diameter.

Concrete anchors, a masonry bit for installing the anchors, and butyl sealer are all included in this set. The use of this installation kit assures a secure mount and a good seal between the adapter ring and the septic tank throughout the installation process.

RISERS

Following your selection of the adapter ring, it is time to go shopping for risers. The Polylok risers are available in two heights: 6″ and 12″, as well as in two diameters: 24″ and 20″. Stackable, each unit has a gasket that has been fitted as well as stainless steel screws to allow for easy installation. Determine which risers will work best for your application based on the height measurement you made between the septic tank and ground level.

OPTIONAL SAFETY SCREEN

In addition to the 20″ and 24″ riser systems, Polylok also produces safety screens that fit within the riser systems. These screens serve as a supplementary layer of protection in the event that the riser cover is unintentionally damaged or removed, and they keep foreign objects from entering the septic tank. They also keep dogs from slipping into unprotected septic tank openings!

RISER LIDS

You will require a lid to complete your riser system, which is the final component you will require. Both the 20″ and 24″ riser systems may be used with the Polylok lids, which are available in two different types to suit your needs. For ease of access, the basic lid is equipped with handles and a gasket that has been factory placed, as well as stainless steel screws to keep it in place. These lids are strong enough to withstand foot traffic as well as the weight of a riding lawn mower driving across them.

  • Stainless steel screws are included for installation.
  • Installations below grade or in regions with a high volume of foot traffic are advised for the heavy-duty lids.
  • The shipping of these items in large boxes necessitates the addition of additional time, materials, and UPS shipping fees.
  • If you place your order before 2 PM CST, you will be able to get your order sent the same day you placed it.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

The following are some of the most commonly asked inquiries that our customer support representatives are asked. Take a peek below; it’s possible that the queries you have have been answered!

WILL THE LID FIT DIRECTLY ON THE ADAPTER RING OR DO I NEED TO USE A RISER?

With the exception of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid, the lid will often fit straight onto the adapter rings in the majority of cases. The underside of the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid is strengthened for added strength. The height of this reinforcement is actually more than the height of the adapter ring. Therefore, the 24″ Heavy Duty Lid will only be able to be used without using an adapter when the opening is at least 24″ in diameter. The lid will not fit through any aperture less than 24 inches in diameter.

CAN I CUT THE RISER SYSTEM DOWN TO A SPECIFIC HEIGHT?

No, the Polylok riser system is available in increments of 6″ and 12″, and it cannot be customized to a certain height.

Cutting the riser will result in the lid not being adequately secured on the riser that has been cut down.

DO I BRING THE RISER SYSTEM JUST BELOW, AT, OR ABOVE GRADE?

It is entirely up to you whether you want to bring the riser system up to grade, raise it above grade, or leave it slightly below grade. Because the riser system is airtight and watertight, there is no danger in moving it up to or above grade level.

SHOULD I USE THE STANDARD OR THE HEAVY DUTY LID?

The regular lid is sturdy enough to withstand foot activity and weights up to the weight of a small riding lawn mower passing over it without bending or breaking. If the riser system is located in a high traffic location or is going to be run over by lawn equipment on a frequent basis, the heavy duty lid is recommended. If you have any more queries, please contact us at 1-877-925-5132 or [email protected]

Septic Tank Riser Kit – Build Your Own 24′ Riser Package

Customize your Polylok septic tank riser kit using the choices listed below to create your own unique 24″ diameter riser kit! The risers and lids for your septic tank will be shipped out to you the same day you order them from Septic Solutions! Customize your Polylok septic tank riser kit using the choices listed below to create your own unique 24″ diameter riser kit! The risers and lids for your septic tank will be shipped out to you the same day you order them from Septic Solutions!

THE POLYLOK SEPTIC TANK RISER ADVANTAGE

Nowadays, there are several different types and designs of septic riser kits and packages available on the market. Building a septic riser kit with Polylok goods will ensure that you are getting the most value for your money. There are several causes for this, but the following are the most significant:

FACTORY INSTALLED GASKETS

The Polylok brand is the only one on the market that is sent to you from the factory with gaskets already in place, making it unique. This means that there is no further work necessary to ensure that the riser system is air and water tight! Keep ground water out of your tank, wastewater in your tank, and potentially hazardous gases out of your yard! In contrast to most other products, our Polylok septic tank risers do not require you to purchase or use any other type of sealant between each riser part.

INTERNAL STRUCTURAL RIBS

Once the hole has been backfilled, the structural ribs in the Polylok septic tank risers are inserted inside around each riser piece, providing them with tremendous strength and allowing them to maintain their shape under the pressure of the earth being pressed on them. As a result of the freezing and thawing of the ground in many parts of the country, it is necessary to have a smooth surface on the outside of the riser’s exterior. It is possible for items that have structural support on the outside of the riser to actually be lifted from the tank, causing damage to both the riser and seal, during periods of freezing and thawing.

LOW PROFILE RISER LIDS WITH HANDLES

The septic tank access lid on a riser system is one of the most significant components since it is the part of the system that is visible from the outside and that must be removed every time the system is pumped or otherwise serviced. The Polylok lids are pre-installed with handles, which make it simple to remove the lid whenever you need to get access to the system or to replace it.

The bottom of the lids is structurally supported, which allows them to remain relatively flat rather than domed in shape, as is the case with many other items on the market.

LARGE TANK ADAPTER RING

An adapter ring is required in order to properly install septic tank risers on your septic tank. We have one of the largest adapter rings available on the market, allowing you to cover up to a 25″ square or 27″ circular aperture with a Polylok adapter ring. This ring fits both 20″ and 24″ risers, allowing you to have a great deal of versatility no matter what size your opening happens to be!

STAINLESS STEEL SCREWS INCLUDED

At Septic Solutions, we strive to make the buying and installation process as simple as possible for our customers. All of our Polylok Septic Tank Risers and Lids are delivered with all of the stainless steel screws required for installation in one package.

Seal-R Products Tank Cover, Service Lid, Septic Tank Lid, Septic Cover, Seal-r Ring, Seal-r Lids, Safety Lids, Riser Pipe, Precast, Maintenance Pipe, Cast In Place Ring, Adaptor Rings

Seal-R™ LidsAvailable in 12”, 15”, 18” 24”, 30”, 36”.Seal-R™ RingsAvailable in 18”, 24”, 30”.Inner Safety LidsAvailable in 18”, 24”, 30”.

Easy 10 minute installation!Secure fit for all systems!Madesold by septic installers!Prevent ground water infiltration and save money at the same time!

Apply foam sealant to tank. Place ring over opening and apply foam.
Place plastic maintenance pipe on ring. Install lid.

Are you tired of using risers that are too tall or too short for the job you are completing?

Plastic riser pipe will give an exact height each time. Try our system and you will never have to carry concrete pipe and lids again. Save time by not having to assemble multiple sections. Now you can cast right into septic tank lids up to 6” thick with the 9” tallSeal-R™ Cast-In-Place Ring. The Cast-In-Place Ring will allow installers to use standard 24” I.D. tank riser material.

Easy Installation!No Heavy Lifting!Prevent ground water infiltration and save money at the same time!No expensive forms to replace!

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