What Is The Typical Layout For Septic Tank? (TOP 5 Tips)

  • A typical residential septic tank is usually about 4.5 feet wide x 8.0 feet long x 6 feet tall. Your septic tank may be a different size however. Best practice is to find and measure your septic tank for accurate calculations. Tanks are typically buried 4 inches to 4 feet deep depending on local site conditions, shape, slope, and other factors.

What is the normal shape of septic tank?

The shape of the tank is circular. Explanation: The shape of the septic tank can be rectangular or cylindrical. Septic tanks are used for wastewater with a high content of settleable solids, typically for effluent from domestic sources.

How many feet should a septic tank be from the house?

Septic tanks are required to be at least 5 feet from the house, although most are between 10 and 25 feet away.

Where should the septic tank be placed?

Northwest is the best direction for installing a septic tank. It doesn’t matter if your house is east or west-facing, as the direction of your house does not take into account the position of the septic tank. Therefore, septic tank location as per Vastu must always be in the northwest part of your home.

How do I determine the size of my septic tank?

Septic Tank Size Calculation based Per User Consumption

  1. Cooking – 5 Liters.
  2. Bathing & Toilet – 85 Liters/Person, So for 5 person – 425 liters/Day.
  3. Washing cloths & Utensils – 30 Liters.
  4. Cleaning House – 10 Liters.
  5. Other – 5 Litres.

How long does it take to design a septic system?

If the land is not ideal, it may take extra time to excavate or get the soil suitable for leaching. The permitting process could delay progress, or even weather can be a factor. However, on average, it takes about 7 days for a knowledgeable team to get your system set up.

What is the size of septic tank for 25 users?

Septic tank size for 25 users:- For 25 users, minimum/ standard size of septic tank could be 3.6m × 1.4m × 1.3m (12ft × 4.5ft × 4.25ft) in respect to their Length, breadth and depth.

What should be the length and width of septic tank?

The code recommended that a septic tank serving 10 people should have a dimension of 2.032m (length), 0.457m (width) and 1.22m (depth) giving a total volume of 1.13m3. This implies that the tank will need desludging about every two years.

Can you build a deck over a septic tank?

You should never build a deck over a septic field; doing so will prevent the natural draining and dissipation of the effluent. This can ruin the septic system, not to mention releasing foul smells into the air all around your deck. The dissipating effluent can also rot the deck from underneath.

How far should drain field be from septic tank?

Common guidelines require at least 50′ clearance distance between a well and a septic system tank or 150′ between a well and a septic drainfield or leaching bed but you will see that different authorities may recommend different distances. Local soil and rock conditions can make these “rules of thumb” unreliable.

How far can you pump septic?

Sewage ejector pumps are designed to pump raw sewage from your home into a septic tank or gravity flow sewer main. For this reason, they can only pump to distances under 750 feet. However, a benefit of sewage ejector pumps is that they are built to move up to 200 gallons per minute of raw sewage.

How many chambers should a septic tank have?

New tanks must have two chambers, while older tanks may have only one. The tank is often made from concrete, but other materials are also used. The tank works by settling and microbial digestion of waste.

Does a septic tank have a bottom?

Septic Tank A buried, watertight tank designated and constructed to receive and partially treat raw domestic sanitary wastewater. Heavy solids settle to the bottom of the tank while greases and lighter solids float to the top.

Can a mound system be put anywhere?

It costs a great deal of money to install these systems, but they can be placed anywhere. A mound septic system has no container, and digging too far gets you too close to the water table. This means instead of digging down you have to dig out.

Types of Septic Systems

Septic system design and size can differ significantly from one neighborhood to the next, as well as throughout the country, due to a variety of variables. Household size, soil type, slope of the site, lot size, closeness to sensitive water bodies, weather conditions, and even municipal ordinances are all considerations to take into consideration. The following are 10 of the most often encountered septic system configurations. It should be noted that this is not an exhaustive list; there are several additional types of septic systems.

  • Septic Tank, Conventional System, Chamber System, Drip Distribution System, Aerobic Treatment Unit, Mound Systems, Recirculating Sand Filter System, Evapotranspiration System, Constructed Wetland System, Cluster / Community System, etc.

Septic Tank

This tank is underground and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for receiving and partially treating raw home sanitary wastewater. Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whereas greases and lighter solids float to the surface. The sediments are retained in the tank, while the wastewater is sent to the drainfield for further treatment and dispersion once it has been treated.

Conventional System

This tank is subterranean and waterproof, and it was designed and built specifically for the purpose of receiving and treating raw home sanitary wastewater. Generally speaking, heavy materials settle at or near the bottom of the tank, whilst greases and lighter solids float to the top. In contrast, the wastewater is released to a drainfield for additional treatment and dispersion, while the sediments remain in the tank.

Chamber System

Gravelless drainfields have been regularly utilized in various states for more than 30 years and have evolved into a standard technology that has mostly replaced gravel systems. Various configurations are possible, including open-bottom chambers, pipe that has been clothed, and synthetic materials such as expanded polystyrene media. Gravelless systems can be constructed entirely of recycled materials, resulting in considerable reductions in carbon dioxide emissions during their lifetime. The chamber system is a type of gravelless system that can be used as an example.

  • The key advantage of the chamber system is the enhanced simplicity with which it can be delivered and built.
  • This sort of system is made up of a number of chambers that are connected to one another.
  • Wastewater is transported from the septic tank to the chambers through pipes.
  • The wastewater is treated by microbes that live on or near the soil.

Drip Distribution System

An effluent dispersal system such as the drip distribution system may be employed in a variety of drainfield configurations and is very versatile. In comparison to other distribution systems, the drip distribution system does not require a vast mound of dirt because the drip laterals are only placed into the top 6 to 12 inches of soil. In addition to requiring a big dosage tank after the sewage treatment plant to handle scheduled dose delivery of wastewater to drip absorption areas, the drip distribution system has one major disadvantage: it is more expensive.

This method necessitates the use of additional components, such as electrical power, which results in a rise in costs as well as higher maintenance.

Aerobic Treatment Unit

Aerobic Treatment Units (ATUs) are small-scale wastewater treatment facilities that employ many of the same procedures as a municipal sewage plant. An aerobic system adds oxygen to the treatment tank using a pump. When there is an increase in oxygen in the system, there is an increase in natural bacterial activity, which then offers extra treatment for nutrients in the effluent. It is possible that certain aerobic systems may additionally include a pretreatment tank as well as a final treatment tank that will include disinfection in order to further lower pathogen levels.

ATUs should be maintained on a regular basis during their service life.

Mound Systems

Using mound systems in regions with short soil depth, high groundwater levels, or shallow bedrock might be a good alternative. A drainfield trench has been dug through the sand mound that was erected. The effluent from the septic tank runs into a pump chamber, where it is pumped to the mound in the amounts recommended. During its release to the trench, the effluent filters through the sand and is dispersed into the native soil, where it continues to be treated. However, while mound systems can be an effective solution for some soil conditions, they demand a significant amount of land and require regular care.

Recirculating Sand Filter System

Sand filter systems can be built either above or below ground, depending on the use. The effluent is discharged from the septic tank into a pump compartment. Afterwards, it is pushed into the sand filter. The sand filter is often made of PVC or a concrete box that is filled with a sand-like substance. The effluent is pushed through the pipes at the top of the filter under low pressure to the drain. As the effluent exits the pipelines, it is treated as it passes through the sand filtering system.

However, sand filters are more costly than a standard septic system because they provide a higher level of nutrient treatment and are thus better suited for areas with high water tables or that are adjacent to bodies of water.

Evapotranspiration System

Evaporative cooling systems feature drainfields that are one-of-a-kind. It is necessary to line the drainfield at the base of the evapotranspiration system with a waterproof material. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the atmosphere. At the same time, the sewage never filters into the soil and never enters groundwater, unlike other septic system designs. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are effective.

The environment must be desert, with plenty of heat and sunshine, and no precipitation. These systems perform effectively in shallow soil; but, if it rains or snows excessively, they are at risk of failing completely.

Constructed Wetland System

Drainfields are peculiar to evapotranspiration systems. An impervious substance is used to line the base of the evapotranspiration system drainfield. Following the entry of the effluent into the drainfield, it evaporates into the surrounding air (see Figure 1). Unlike other types of septic systems, the effluent never filters into the soil and never reaches groundwater. It is only in particular climatic circumstances that evapotranspiration systems are useful. There must be enough of heat and sunlight in the environment, as well as no rain.

Cluster / Community System

In certain cases, a decentralized wastewater treatment system is owned by a group of people and is responsible for collecting wastewater from two or more residences or buildings and transporting it to a treatment and dispersal system placed on a suitable location near the dwellings or buildings. Cluster systems are widespread in settings like rural subdivisions, where they may be found in large numbers.

How Your Septic System Works

Underground wastewater treatment facilities, known as septic systems, are often employed in rural regions where there are no centralized sewage lines. They clean wastewater from residential plumbing, such as that produced by bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry, by combining natural processes with well-established technology. A conventional septic system is comprised of two components: a septic tank and a drainfield, often known as a soil absorption field. It is the septic tank’s job to decompose organic matter and to remove floatable stuff (such as oils and grease) and solids from wastewater.

Alternate treatment systems rely on pumps or gravity to assist septic tank effluent in trickling through a variety of media such as sand, organic matter (e.g., peat and sawdust), constructed wetlands, or other media to remove or neutralize pollutants such as pathogens that cause disease, nitrogen, phosphorus, and other contaminants.

Specifically, this is how a typical conventional septic system works:

  1. All of the water that leaves your home drains down a single main drainage pipe and into a septic tank. An underground, water-tight container, often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its function is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. Sludge and scum are prevented from exiting the tank and moving into the drainfield region by compartments and a T-shaped outlet. After that, the liquid wastewater (effluent) exits the tank and flows into the drainfield. The drainfield is a shallow, covered hole dug in unsaturated soil that serves as a drainage system. Porous surfaces are used to release pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to pass through the soil and into the groundwater. In the process of percolating through the soil, wastewater is accepted, treated, and dispersed by the soil, finally discharging into groundwater. Finally, if the drainfield becomes overburdened with too much liquid, it can flood, causing sewage to flow to the ground surface or resulting in toilet backups and sink backups. Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients. Coliform bacteria are a kind of bacteria that may be found in the intestines of humans and other warm-blooded animals, with humans being the most common host. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of this.
See also:  Which Drains Go To The Septic Tank? (Best solution)

A septic tank is where all of the water drains from your home through a single main drainage line. An underground, watertight container, often built of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, serves as a septic system’s holding tank. Its role is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to settle to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. It is also known as a settling tank. T-shaped outlets and compartments prevent sludge and scum from exiting the tank and migrating into the drainfield region.

An excavation built in unsaturated soil, the drainfield is shallow and covered.

As wastewater percolates through the soil and eventually discharges into groundwater, the soil takes, processes, and disperses it.

Finally, wastewater percolates into the soil, where it is naturally removed of harmful coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients.

When it comes to bacteria, the term “coliform” refers to those that live in the digestive tracts of humans and other warm-blooded animals. As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a sign of contamination.

Do you have a septic system?

All of the water that drains from your house goes into a septic tank through a single main drainage line. The septic tank is a subterranean, water-tight container that is often composed of concrete, fiberglass, or polyethylene, depending on the manufacturer. Its role is to retain wastewater for a long enough period of time to allow particles to sink to the bottom and form sludge, while oil and grease float to the surface and produce scum. T-shaped outlets and compartments prevent sludge and scum from escaping the tank and moving into the drainfield region.

Porous surfaces are used to discharge pretreated wastewater because they allow the wastewater to filter through the soil.

If the drainfield becomes overwhelmed with too much liquid, it might flood, allowing sewage to flow to the ground surface or producing backups in toilets and sinks; finally, the wastewater percolates into the soil, naturally eliminating hazardous coliform bacteria, viruses, and nutrients.

As a result of human fecal contamination, it is a good indication.

  • You make use of well water. In your home, the water pipe that brings water into the house does not have a meter. In the case of a water bill or a property tax bill, you will see “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged.” It is possible that your neighbors have a septic system

How to find your septic system

You can locate your septic system once you have confirmed that you have one by following these steps:

  • The following are some methods for determining whether or not your home has a septic system.

Failure symptoms: Mind the signs!

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing to work properly. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek expert assistance:

  • There are several signs of a faulty septic system, and not all of them are unpleasant odors. Any of the following signs should prompt you to seek professional help:.

Septic Tank – Components and Design of Septic Tank Based on Population

A bad odor is not necessarily the first indicator of a septic system that is failing. If you detect any of the following, contact a septic professional:

What is Septic tank?

In terms of classification, a septic tank is a main sedimentation tank with a long detention duration (12 to 36hrs against a period of 2hrs in an ordinary sedimentation tank). Septic tanks are an excellent option for disposing of night soil in rural and urban locations that are not serviced by sewers. However, there should be enough water accessible since water is essential for the movement of the night soil from the latrine to the septic tank as well as for the effective operation of the septic tank.

The size of the septic tank is such that the sewage is A soak pit is often used to dispose of septic tank waste when there is no municipal drainage system in the region.

In the event that a municipal drainage system is in the vicinity, the effluent is released to the drain.

Figure 1: The Septic Tank in Action

Design of Septic Tank

The capacity of a septic tank is determined by the number of users and the frequency with which sludge is removed. Normal sludge removal should take place every two years. The liquid volume of the tank is estimated to be between 130 and 70 liters per head. For a limited number of users, 130 liters per person is required. A septic tank is often surrounded by a brick wall that is thick with cement mortar, and the foundation floor is made of cement concrete 1:2:4 in proportion. Both the inner and exterior faces of the wall, as well as the top of the floor, are plastered with a minimum thickness of 12mm (one-half inch) thick cementmortar 1:3 mix, with a maximum thickness of 24mm (one-half inch).

Water proofing chemicals, such as Impermo, Cem-seal, or Accoproof, among others, are added to the mortar at a rate of 2 percent of the cement weight, according to the manufacturer.

The floor of the septic tank is sloped from 1:10 to 120 degrees towards the input side in order to provide adequate ease in the collection and evacuation of sludge.

Dimensions of Septic Tank Components

The width is 750mm (min) Length = 2 to 4 times the width width Min below water level is between 1000 and 1300mm, and the free board is between 300 and 450mm. The maximum depth is 1800mm plus 450mm of freeboard. Capacity = 1 cubic meter (10 cubic feet) at the very least.

ii)Detention period

Septic tank design takes into account a detention time of 24 hours (for the most part). The rate of flow of effluent must be the same as the rate of flow of influent to be considered equal.

iii)Inlet and outlet pipes

To a depth of 250-600mm below the liquid’s surface level, an elbow or T pipe with a 100mm diameter is submerged. For the exit pipe, a 100mm diameter elbow or T type pipe is submerged to a depth of 200-500mm below the liquid level, depending on the design. Pipes made of stoneware or asbestos are possible.

iv)Baffle Walls of Septic Tank

The use of RCC hanging style scum baffle walls in septic tanks is recommended for smaller tanks. Near the intake, baffle barriers are installed for protection. It is only required near the outlet. It is recommended that the intake baffle wall be installed at a distance of L/5 from the wall, where L is the length of the wall. The baffle wall is often extended 150mm above the scum level and 400-700mm below it, depending on the situation. Because scum is light, it tends to float near the surface of the water in the tank.

v)Roofing Slab of Septic Tank

Septic tanks are covered with an RCC slab that ranges in thickness from 75mm to 100mm, depending on the size of the tank being covered.

Inspection and desludging are carried out through circular manholes with a clear diameter of 500mm. Clear size is maintained at 600x450mm in the case of a rectangular aperture.

vi)Ventilation Pipe

A cast iron or asbestos pipe with a diameter of 50-100mm is supplied for the discharge of bad gases and ventilation purposes, and it should extend 2m (minutes) above ground level. The top of the ventilation pipe is protected by a mosquito-proof wire tangle, which is also called a cowl. Sectional plan ZZ depicts the usual arrangement of a septic tank (see illustration). The Cross-Sectional Detail of a Septic Tank is depicted in Section XX.

Example – Design of Septic Tank for 20 Users

When you have 120 liters per person, 0.12 x 20 is 2.4 cum Assume that the liquid depth is 1.3 meters. As a result, the floor area of the tank is equal to 24/1.3 = 1.85m 2.Taking the duration of the breath as 2.5 times the breath L X B=1.85 2.5B X B = 1.85 B = Sqrt(1.85/2.5) = 0.86, or 0.9m This results in a tank with a 22.5″ by 9″ overall size.

Suitable Sizes of Septic Tank Based on Number of Persons

The following chart lists the appropriate sizes of septic tanks for households with 5, 10, 15, 20, and 50 people.

No of users Length L in m Breath B in m Liquid Depth in m Liquid Capacity to be provided in m 3 Free Board in m Sludge to be removed(m 3) Interval Cleaning
5 1.5 0.75 1.0 1.05 1.12 1.18 0.3 0.3 0.36 0.72 1 year 2 year
10 2.0 0.9 1.0 1.4 1.8 2.0 0.3 0.3 0.72 1.44 1 year 2 year
15 2.0 0.9 1.3 2.0 2.3 3.6 0.3 0.3 1.08 2.16 1 year 2 year
20 2.3 1.1 1.3 1.8 3.3 4.6 0.3 0.3 1.44 2.88 1 year 2 year
50 4.0 1.4 1.3 2.0 7.3 11.2 0.3 0.3 3.60 7.20 1 year 2 year

Septic Tank Design and Construction

Aseptic tank design must be thoroughly thought out and constructed such that it will not fracture and will not pollute ground water. Septic tank design and construction are discussed in this section, and building blueprints for a standard-sized tank are provided as well. We will cover the characteristics of the tank, the necessity to estimate effluent levels, the tank intake and exit pipes, the transfer pipe between internal chambers, vent pipes, and the design of access manholes in order for the tank to be maintained and cleaned out.

  • Bacterial Action in a Septic Tank
  • Septic Tank Size and Capacity
  • Septic System Maintenance
  • Septic System Cleaning
  • Toilets and drains that are clogged

Septic Tank Design

Please go to the preceding page at if you need a refresher on how septic tanks function before continuing.

A Septic tank needs to be strong enough

A well-constructed septic tank will not leak and should be able to endure soil movements; nonetheless, many septic tanks in Indonesia are damaged and leaking due to poor construction. It is quite simple to underestimate the forces that a septic tank must bear in order to function properly. You may find individuals constructing septic tanks out of lightweight concrete blocks (batako), with a thin skim of cement applied to the inside of the tank. The smallest amount of ground movement, and most likely even the settlement caused by the tank’s construction, will be enough to cause it to fail completely.

That is a significant amount of weight.

Neither of these options is ideal.

There are a lot of folks in the area who are constructing septic tanks who aren’t really sure how they function.

I am frequently questioned on the matter, therefore this week we will go more technical. I’m afraid we’ll be looking at a well-designed septic tank and discussing the aspects of its design.

How big a septic tank?

The first thing we need to figure out is how big the tank should be in terms of volume. There are various ways to figure this out, but using the charts at will help you to determine the size you will need to purchase. Let us assume that we require a tank with a capacity of 2.9 cubic metres (the quantity of effluent that the tank will contain), which is normal for a two-bedroom house with two bathrooms and four people living in it. A typical domestic septic tank, with a capacity of 2.88 cubic meters, is seen in the construction sketch below.

How many chambers?

A septic tank should contain at least two chambers; three chambers are preferable, but two chambers are sufficient. The size of the second chamber can be approximately half that of the first chamber. The first chamber of this tank has a liquid capacity of 1.92 cubic metres and is 1.2m x 1.0m x 1.6m deep. The second chamber has dimensions of 0.6m x 1.0m x 1.6m deep, with a capacity of 0.96 cu m, for a total capacity of 2.88 cubic metres. It is important to note that the depth of the effluent in the tank is 1.6 metres.

To view and download the complete drawing, please click on the picture.

The reinforcing steel is a mesh of 8 mm diameter reinforcing bars that are placed 15 cm (6 inches) apart and formed into a mesh box to provide structural support.

Septic Tank Construction

When casting the concrete, plywood formwork (shuttering) is put around the steel to form a box-shaped mould, which is then ready to be filled with concrete and cast around the steel. This should be set to ensure that the walls are 4 inches thick and that, when the concrete is poured, there will be a good thick coating of concrete on both sides of the steel mesh to prevent the steel from rusting, and that the steel mesh will be covered with a good thick layer of concrete. Additionally, a layer of sand should be placed beneath the concrete floor of the tank to allow for some movement when the tank settles and moves in the earth.

See also:  What To Add To Septic Tank To Mantain It? (Correct answer)

The tank’s 15cm (4 inch) diameter PVC inlet, transfer, and outlet pipes must be fitted before the concrete is poured in order for it to function properly.

Too much water should not be added (a slump of 7 is recommended) in order to produce a good firm concrete, and the concrete should be vibrated with a vibrator throughout the pouring process to ensure that it is correctly compacted and free of cavities or air holes.

However, while it may appear tough, following these simple recommendations will ensure that you have a tank that is properly constructed and will not leak or break in the near future. In the end, we get a concrete box with two compartments.

Levels are very important

When creating the septic tank, it is important to pay particular attention to the levels of the tank. Ideally, the effluent pipe from your toilet to the tank should be 15 cms in diameter with a slope of at least 2 percent (i.e., a fall of 2cms per meter) over the whole length of the pipe from your toilet to the tank. The tank must be built deep enough to accommodate this, and it should be meticulously designed before construction begins. The septic tank’s entrance line should be routed directly into the tank.

These manholes are a major source of clogs and foul odors throughout the city.

Inlet, Outlet and Transfer pipes

The plumbing is presently being installed. Take note of the relative placements of the inlet, outlet, and transfer pipes within the tank; the inlet pipe is slightly higher than the outlet pipe, and the transfer pipe is somewhat lower than both. These differences in relative heights are significant. There are 15cm (4 inch) tee pieces on both the inlet and outlet pipes as well as on both ends of the transfer pipe that connects the chambers in this tank design. These tee pieces help to keep the pipes clear of scum that forms on the surface of the effluent while it is being digested by the bacteria.

We want the water to flow through the tank as gently as possible.

This is done to ensure that liquid entering the pipe is drawn from the center level of the tank, which is below any turbulence and high enough to avoid being clogged by deposits at the bottom of the tank, rather than the sides or bottom of the tank.

Manholes and Vent Pipe

The top of the tank may now be installed; once again, a reinforced concrete slab measuring 15cm (4inches) thick will be employed. The top is equipped with a galvanized steel vent pipe with a diameter of 2 inches. As a result of this design, the pipe is more than 2 metres high, allowing any gases to be dispersed freely in the wind. It’s important to remember that a septic tank should not smell while it’s running correctly. There are also two manholes in the top of the structure. Normally, grout will be used to seal them, ensuring that they are gas tight.

Aside from that, the manholes provide access for pumping out the tank, which you may need to do once every five years or so, depending on your circumstances.

In these situations, it is not feasible to gain access to the tank in order to repair or unblock it if the need arises.

It is possible that certain contractors will make the manhole and its cover fit together with a tapered connection in select locations.

It is extremely difficult to create tapered joints that are both accurate and secure, making them tough to seal. Flat surfaces are far superior to rounded ones. Additionally, make certain that the manhole covers have steel grips that can be raised. Likewise, see:

  • Installing the top of the tank is now possible
  • A reinforced concrete slab measuring 15cm (4inches) thick will be utilized once again. There is a galvanized steel vent pipe in the top of the structure with a 2 inch diameter. The pipe in this design is more than 2 metres in height, which allows any gases to be dispersed freely in the wind as they pass through it. Recall that a septic tank should not smell when it is running correctly. On the roof, there are two manholes. Most of the time, grout will be used to seal them, making them gas tight. They are large enough to enable entry into the tank if maintenance is required, and they are strategically placed to provide access to the inlet and outflow pipelines in the event that obstructions occur. Aside from that, the manholes provide access for pumping out the tank, which you may need to do once every five years or so, depending on your situation. Many tanks are constructed without manhole covers, but instead feature 15cm (4 inch) diameter pipes in the top to enable for the tank to be pumped out as it becomes necessary. Getting into the tank to repair or unclog it if the need arises is impossible in these circumstances. It is important to note that the manhole covers are intended to seal with horizontal surfaces. It is possible that certain contractors will make the manhole and its lid fit together with a tapered connection in certain locations. It is quite difficult to create tapered joints that fit well, and as a result, they are extremely difficult to seal effectively as well. It is much preferable to have flat surfaces than not. Check if the manhole covers have steel handles that may be used to lift them as well. Refer to this page for further information.

Phil Wilson is the owner of the copyright. The month of October 2014 This article, or any part of it, may not be duplicated or reproduced without the express consent of the author or owner of the copyright.

A Beginner’s Guide to Septic Systems

  • Septic systems are used to dispose of waste from homes and buildings. Identifying the location of the septic tank and drainfield
  • What a Septic System Is and How It Works Keeping a Septic System in Good Condition
  • Signs that a septic system is failing include:

Septic systems, also known as on-site wastewater management systems, are installed in a large number of buildings and houses. It is easy to lose sight of septic systems, which operate quietly, gracefully, and efficiently to protect human and environmental health due to their burying location. Septic systems are the norm in rural regions, but they may also be found in a lot of metropolitan places, especially in older buildings. It is critical to understand whether or not your building is on a septic system.

Is Your Home or Building on a Septic System?

It is possible that the solution to this question will not be evident. If a structure looks to be connected to a sewage system, it may instead be connected to a septic system. It is fairly unusual for tenants to be unaware of the final destination of the wastewater generated by their residence. Some of the hints or signs listed below will assist in determining whether the facility is served by a septic system or whether it is supplied by a sewer system:

  • Sewer service will be provided at a cost by the city or municipality. Pay close attention to the water bill to see whether there is a cost labeled “sewer” or “sewer charge” on it. If there is a fee for this service, it is most likely because the facility is connected to a sewage system. Look up and down the street for sewage access ports or manholes, which can be found in any location. If a sewage system runs in front of a property, it is probable that the house is connected to it in some way. Inquire with your neighbors to see if they are connected to a sewer or septic system. The likelihood that your home is on a sewer system is increased if the properties on each side of you are on one as well. Keep in mind, however, that even if a sewage line runs in front of the structure and the nearby residences are connected to a sewer system, your home or building may not be connected to one. If the structure is older than the sewer system, it is possible that it is still on the original septic system. Consult with your local health agency for further information. This agency conducts final inspections of septic systems to ensure that they comply with applicable laws and regulations. There is a possibility that they have an archived record and/or a map of the system and will supply this information upon request

All property owners should be aware of whether or not their property is equipped with an on-site wastewater treatment system. Georgia law mandates that the property owner is responsible for the correct operation of a septic system, as well as any necessary maintenance and repairs.

Locating the Septic Tank and Drainfield

Finding a septic system may be a difficult process. They can be buried anywhere in the yard, including the front, back, and side yards. After a few years, the soil may begin to resemble the surrounding soil, making it impossible to distinguish the system from the surrounding soil. It is possible that in dry weather, the grass will be dryer in the shallow soil over the tank and greener over the drainfield, where the cleansed water will be released, but this is not always the case, especially in hot weather.

  • The contractor who built the house should have presented the initial owner with a map showing the tank and drainfield locations, according to the building code.
  • The installation of the system, as well as any modifications made to it, would have been examined by your local health authority.
  • Unfortunately, if the system is very old, any records related with it may be insufficient or nonexistent, depending on the situation.
  • Look for the point at where the wastewater pipes join together if the building is on a crawlspace or has an unfinished basement.
  • The sewer line that runs through the structure is referred to as the building sewer.
  • To “feel” for the tank, use a piece of re-bar or a similar metal probe.
  • If you use this free service, you may avoid accidentally putting a rod through your gas or water line.

Try to locate the tank after a rainstorm, when the metal probe will be more easily maneuvered through moist dirt.

This should be done with care; extreme caution should be exercised to avoid puncturing the building sewer.

A tank is normally 5 by 8 feet in size, however the dimensions might vary.

Be aware that there may be rocks, pipes, and other debris in the area that “feels” like the tank but is not in fact part of the tank.

However, it is possible to have the lid or access port positioned on a riser in addition to being on the same level as the top of the tank in some cases.

Once the tank has been identified, make a rough drawing of its placement in relation to the house so that it will not be misplaced again!

It may be easier to discover the drainage lines now that the tank has been identified, particularly if the area has been subjected to prolonged periods of drought.

How a Septic System Works

Typical sewage treatment system (figure 1). It is composed of three components (Figure 1): the tank, the drain lines or discharge lines, and the soil treatment area (also known as the soil treatment area) (sometimes called a drainfield or leach field). The size of the tank varies according to the size of the structure. The normal home (three bedrooms, two bathrooms) will often include a 1,000-gallon water storage tank on the premises. Older tanks may only have one chamber, however newer tanks must have two chambers.

  • The tank functions by settling waste and allowing it to be digested by microbes.
  • These layers include the bottom sludge layer, the top scum layer, and a “clear” zone in the center.
  • A typical septic tank is seen in Figure 2.
  • It is fortunate that many of the bacteria involved are found in high concentrations in the human gastrointestinal tract.
  • Although the bacteria may break down some of the stuff in the sludge, they are unable to break down all of it, which is why septic tanks must be cleaned out every three to seven years.
  • In addition, when new water is introduced into the septic tank, an equal volume of water is pushed out the discharge lines and onto the drainfield.
  • The water trickles out of the perforated drain pipes, down through a layer of gravel, and into the soil below the surface (Figure 3).
  • A typical drainfield may be found here.
  • Plants, bacteria, fungus, protozoa, and other microorganisms, as well as bigger critters such as mites, earthworms, and insects, flourish in soil.
  • Mineralogical and metallic elements attach to soil particles, allowing them to be removed from the waste water.
See also:  What Is Pipe Sticking Out Of Septic Tank? (Question)

Maintaining a Septic System

The most typical reason for a septic system to fail is a lack of proper maintenance. Septic systems that are failing are expensive to repair or replace, and the expense of repairs rests on the shoulders of the property owner (Figure 4). Fortunately, keeping your septic system in good working order and avoiding costly repairs is rather simple. Figure 4. Septic system failure is frequently caused by a lack of proper maintenance. It is in your best interests to be aware of the location of the system, how it operates, and how to maintain it.

  1. You should pump the tank if you aren’t sure when the last time it was pumped.
  2. It is not permissible to drive or park over the tank or drainage field.
  3. No rubbish should be disposed of in the sink or the toilet.
  4. It’s important to remember that garbage disposals enhance the requirement for regular pumping.
  5. When designing a landscape, keep the septic system in mind.
  6. It is also not recommended to consume veggies that have been cultivated above drainfield lines (see Dorn, S.
  7. Ornamental Plantings on Septic Drainfields.

C 1030).

Any water that enters your home through a drain or toilet eventually ends up in your septic system.

Don’t put too much strain on the system by consuming a large amount of water in a short period of time.

Additives should not be used.

Various types of additives are available for purchase as treatment options, cleansers, restorers, rejuvenator and boosters, among other things.

To break up oil and grease and unclog drains, chemical additives are available for purchase.

Pumping out the septic tank is not eliminated or reduced by using one of these systems.

They remain floating in the water and travel into the drainfield, where they may block the pipes. Acids have the potential to damage concrete storage tanks and distribution boxes.

Signs a Septic System is Failing

A failed system manifests itself in the following ways:

  • Sinks and toilets drain at a snail’s pace
  • Plumbing that is backed up
  • The sound of gurgling emanating from the plumbing system House or yard aromas that smell like sewage
  • In the yard, there is wet or squishy dirt
  • Water that is gray in hue that has accumulated
  • An region of the yard where the grass is growing more quickly and is becoming greener
  • Water contaminated by bacteria from a well

If you notice any of these indicators, you should notify your local health department immediately. An environmentalist from the health department can assist in identifying possible hazards. There are also listings of state-certified contractors available from the local health department, who may do repairs. Repairs or alterations to the system must be approved by the health department and examined by an inspector. Keep an eye out for any meetings that may take place between a health department inspector and a contractor to discuss repairs to your system.

  • Household garbage that has not been properly handled is released into the environment when systems fail.
  • It has the potential to pollute surrounding wells, groundwater, streams, and other sources of potable water, among other things.
  • The foul odor emanating from a malfunctioning system can cause property values to plummet.
  • Briefly stated, broken systems can have an impact on your family, neighbors, community, and the environment.
  • Septic systems are an effective, attractive, and reasonably priced method of treating and disposing of wastewater.

Figures 2 and 3 reprinted with permission from: CIDWT. 2009. Installation of Wastewater Treatment Systems. Consortium of Institutes for Decentralized Wastewater Treatment. Iowa State University, Midwest Plan Service. Ames, IA.

History of the current status and revisions Published on the 15th of August, 2013. Published on March 28th, 2017 with a full review.

What size of septic tank do I need?

Probably one of the last things on your mind when you are constructing a new house is the location of your septic system. After all, shopping for tanks isn’t nearly as entertaining as shopping for cabinetry, appliances, and floor coverings. Although you would never brag about it, your guests will be aware if you do not have the proper septic tank placed in your home or business.

septic tanks for new home construction

The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size. Of course, all of this is dependent on the number of people who live in the house as well as the amount of water and waste that will be disposed of through the plumbing system.

For the most accurate assessment of your septic tank needs, you should speak with an experienced and trustworthy sewer business representative. They can assist you in planning the intricacies of your septic system, including which sort of septic system will be most beneficial to you.

planning your drainfield

Here are some helpful hints for deciding where to locate your drainfield when you’re designing it.

  • Vehicles should not be allowed on or around the drainfield. Planting trees or anything else with deep roots along the bed of the drain field is not recommended. The roots jam the pipes on a regular basis. Downspouts and sump pumps should not be discharged into the septic system. Do not tamper with or change natural drainage features without first researching and evaluating the consequences of your actions on the drainage field. Do not construct extensions on top of the drain field or cover it with concrete, asphalt, or other materials. Create easy access to your septic tank cover by placing it near the entrance. Easy maintenance and inspection are made possible as a result. To aid with evaporation and erosion prevention, plant grass in the area.

a home addition may mean a new septic tank

Do not make any big additions or renovations to your house or company until you have had the size of your septic system assessed. If you want to build a house addition that is more than 10% of your total floor space, increases the number of rooms, or necessitates the installation of new plumbing, you will almost certainly need to expand your septic tank.

  • For a home addition that will result in increased use of your septic system, your local health department will require a letter from you that has been signed and authorized by a representative of your local health department confirming that your new septic system is capable of accommodating the increase in wastewater. It is not recommended that you replace your septic system without the assistance of a certified and competent contractor.

how to maintain your new septic system

Septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services are provided by Norway Septic Inc., a service-oriented company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to households and business owners throughout the Michiana area. “We take great delight in finishing the task that others have left unfinished.” “They pump, we clean!” says our company’s motto. Septic systems are something we are familiar with from our 40 years of expertise, and we propose the following:

  • Septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services are provided by Norway Septic Inc., a service-oriented company devoted to delivering outstanding septic tank cleaning and septic tank pumping services to residents and business owners throughout the Michiana area. When others fail to complete a task, we take great delight in completing it. “They pump, we clean!” is our company motto. Given our extensive septic system knowledge and over 40 years of expertise, we suggest the following:

common septic questions

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions by our septic customers.

How do I determine the size of my septic tank?

If you have a rectangular tank, multiply the inner height by the length to get the overall height of the tank. In order to find out how many gallons your septic tank contains, divide the number by.1337.1337

How many bedrooms does a 500-gallon septic tank support?

The exact size of the septic tank is determined mostly by the square footage of the house and the number of people who will be living in it. The majority of home septic tanks have capacities ranging from 750 to 1,250 gallons. A 1000 gallon tank will most likely be required for a typical 3-bedroom home that is smaller than 2500 square feet in size.

How deep in the ground is a septic tank?

Your septic system is normally buried between four inches and four feet underground, depending on the climate.

Septic System Basics

Your septic system is normally buried between four inches and four feet underground, depending on the region.

Septic System Types

A three-compartment tank is being erected for the purpose of distributing pressure. A pressure distribution lateral is being erected in three-foot-wide trenches employing graveless chambers to distribute pressure. Clark, Skamania, and Cowlitz Counties are home to a large number of them. This is a manifold that provides for flow control of each of the pressure distribution laterals in a pressure distribution system. An extensive pressured drainfield system, including many graveless chamber laterals, was recently completed and tested.

  1. Prior to backfilling, a “drip” drainfield was built.
  2. They are more expensive to build and require more maintenance than a system with a graveless chamber.
  3. The complexity of these systems is more than that of a normal “pressure” system, as seen above.
  4. Some are constructed in a factory, while others are constructed on site.
  5. When there are shallow soils present on the site, these methods are necessary (12-30 inches typically).

Typically, these treatment systems are followed by pressure distribution drainfields to complete the system (trenches or drip tube). The following are the most frequent types of pre-treatment systems that may be found in Clark County, California:

  • Textile Filters (AdvanTex)
  • Glendon Pods
  • Sand Filters (which are no longer commonly built, but there are numerous in the ground)
  • Sand Mounds
  • Aerobic Treatment

Advanced treatment systems for residential projects generally vary in price from $13,000 to $20,000, depending on their complexity. They can be higher if the structure is larger than usual or if the location has extremely challenging limitations. Only in extremely rare instances might a home system exceed $50,000 in cost. This is, however, a very unusual occurrence. An underground box filled with sand and drainrock collects pressured effluent from the septic tank and transports it to the sand filter.

During the filtering process, the unclean effluent passes through sand and settles in a sump at the bottom.

Many sand filters were erected in the past, however modern technology has mostly superseded sand filters in the present day and in the future.

The surface will only be able to see a couple of the lids once they have been completed.

Sand Mounds – A sand mound is another type of structure that is well suited for places with shallow soils.

A network of pressured pipes, similar to that of a pressure drainfield, is embedded inside the sand fill.

While moving downhill through the sand, the effluent is treated by the natural soil underneath it.

They are used less frequently these days, and when they are, the design often allows for a lesser height than in the past, which is a benefit.

Using a “aerobic” procedure, in which air is pumped into the effluent at certain intervals, another technique of treating wastewater can be used to reduce odors.

In order to introduce air into the effluent, a tiny air compressor is employed.

They are less expensive to install, take up less space on the property, and are less difficult to repair if and when they are damaged.

Textile Filter (AdvanTex) — Considered to be one of the highest-quality treatment systems now available, AdvanTex filters might be referred to as the “Cadillac” of septic system treatment systems in some circles.

The AdvanTex, on the other hand, makes use of a textile product rather than sand.

The NuWater system is less expensive to install than the AdvanTex system, and it does not require the use of a UV lamp, as does the AdvanTex system.

Specifically, a drip drainfield was employed in this particular instance.

The method is made up of many layers of sand and gravel that are deposited in a waterproof box that is dug into the ground, with a sand fill covering the whole surface area.

Typically, one “pod” is utilized for each bedroom in a house (or 120 gal/day of wastewater on a business project), with one “pod” being used for each bathroom.

The Glendon method, on the other hand, is still in use, and it offers advantages over a mound in some situations.

Two Glendon pods were erected at a distance from one another. It is possible to separate the “pods” in this method, which is advantageous in comparison to a regular mound, which is generally one long bump that cannot be divided.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *