What Is A Stub Out For My Septic Tank? (TOP 5 Tips)

inspectapedia.com

• Your septic system starts from the stub out of your home, where plumbers have piped all your drains, including sinks and toilets, into one or more pipes. From the stub, the pipes carry the effluent to the septic tank, where the bacteria eat up all the solids.

What is a septic stub out?

Stub outs are greywater collection plumbing which dead ends at a cap. They provide for for easy diversion of graywater to a future graywater system to be made during the construction of a house, without having to install the complete graywater system.

What does stub out mean?

phrasal verb. When someone stubs out a cigarette, they put it out by pressing it against something hard. Signs across the entrances warn all visitors to stub out their cigarettes.

What is a stub pipe?

Pipe stub outs are pipes that stick out from a wall or pipe tee. Stub outs are also called stub-ups. They are capped until a branch pipe is attached. The branch pipe can be inserted after the pipe cap is removed.

What does a Stubout do?

Plumbers make fixture drains with 2-inch plastic pipes — either PVC or ABS. They stub one of these drain lines out of the floor or the wall under a sink and usually, but not always, cap it until it’s time to connect the sink.

How long should a stub out be?

The drain stub-out extends from a fitting — usually a sanitary tee — to a point 3 or 4 inches beyond the wall. 4–6 inches is fairly standard, unless there is an odd cabinet or fixture that requires more. You can always add length with a fitting and pipe.

When should you use a stub?

Stub out elbows are primarily used when installing PEX pipe to stub out of the wall and allow for further connection of outlet stop valves and plumbing fixtures. Stub out elbows with ears can be nailed to a wooden surface, such as a stud.

What does stub up mean?

Home / Glossary / Stub-up. A term used to indicate that preparation has been made to install a fixture. An example is that a drain pipe is stubbed up in the floor in preparation for attaching a toilet.

What is stub implementation?

A method stub or simply stub in software development is a piece of code used to stand in for some other programming functionality. Stubs are used commonly as placeholders for implementation of a known interface, where the interface is finalized/known but the implementation is not yet known/finalized.

What is the difference between mocks and stubs?

A Mock is just testing behaviour, making sure certain methods are called. A Stub is a testable version (per se) of a particular object.

What is difference between stub in and stub on?

Stub-in vs Stub-on Piping Connection As explained above, Stub-in is used when the run pipe and branch pipe has a difference of more than one size. On the contrary, Stub-on pipe branch connection is applicable when the branch pipe isequal to run pipe only only one size lower than the header pipe.

What is a stub flange?

The Stub Flange requires a loose backing ring (see Flanges & Backing Rings page) plus a gasket (see Gaskets & O-Rings) and provides a demountable connection of Europress pipe to other flanged equipment or pipes.

How far should a stub out extend through a finished wall?

Wall Drains Like the supply stub-outs, the drain stub-out extends from a fitting — usually a sanitary tee — to a point 3 or 4 inches beyond the wall. The drain, which is usually 2-inch plastic pipe, maintains a minimum slope of 1/4 inch per foot from the stub-out to the point where it ties into a main waste pipe.

How do I remove stubs?

Cut the PVC pipe at any point inside the wall that allows you to remove the stub-out, using a hacksaw. You may have to make two cuts to separate the tee holding the stub-out from the waste and vent pipes. Remove any clamps holding the stub-out with a screwdriver or hammer, and pull out the stub-out.

What does power stubbed mean?

STUBBED-IN UTILITIES means– usually — plumbing i.e. gas, drain, waste and vent (DWV) and water supply, brought to the point of a rough inspection whereby walls can be closed up and the owner, tenant or buyer need only connect appliances and fixtures to make for a functional installation, at which point a final

What Is a Stub Out?

Featured image courtesy of monkeybusinessimages/iStock/Getty Images

In This Article

• Image courtesy of monkeybusinessimages/iStock/Getty Images.

Plumbers, electricians, and gas fitters are required to lay pipes behind walls, under floors, and underground in order to provide buildings with water, drainage, electricity, and natural gas service, among other things. After they do this, they leave the ends of the pipes protruding from the wall, ready to be linked to a fixture such as a faucet or drain assembly, an electrical device, or a gas appliance when the work is finished. The piece of the pipe that protrudes from a wall, floor, or trench is referred to as a stub-out, and it is normally covered until the time comes to connect it to the rest of the system.

Tip

In the plumbing, electrical, or gas rough-in, a stub-out refers to the exposed piece of a pipe that has been installed and is prepared for connection to a fixture or device.

The Process of Roughing-In

In the rough-in phase of a remodel or new construction, water and gas pipes and electrical conduit are installed in the framing prior to finishing the walls and floors. Although the pipes are hidden after they are covered over with walls and floors, the ends of the pipes must still be accessible to ensure that they function properly. For this to be feasible, stub-outs must be installed, and their location must be meticulously planned so that it corresponds to the arrangement of the fixtures or elements to which they will be attached.

When the rough-in procedure is completed, water stub-outs for sinks, showers, bathtubs, and toilets are created, as well as drain stub-outs for sinks and showers, if applicable.

Connecting Stub-Outs in Finish Phase

Each of the water pipes must be linked to a separate shut-off valve before it can be connected to a faucet or toilet, and the stub-out must be long enough to allow for those connections to be made successfully. According to a conversation on Plbg.com, plumbers have varying views when it comes to the optimal length, although the majority make them between 3 and 6 inches in length on average. In this way, they avoid having to prolong a stub-out that is too short and instead may simply trim it to the required length.

Plumbers either solder a cap or a valve to each one or install a valve using a compression fitting to connect the two pieces together.

Along with two water stub-outs, each sink has a drain stub-out that is often located on the wall, but it may occasionally rise from the floor.

Stub-outs for toilets are often cut flush with the concrete in order to accommodate the installation of a toilet flange.

Some Stub-Outs Don’t Get Connected

Some stub-outs are only used on rare occasions, while others are there to facilitate future connections. In the case of a waste pipe that runs between a house and a sewer or a septic tank, the cleanout fitting with a detachable cap is normally positioned on a stub-out someplace in the yard, and it’s usually accessible. An other example, as stated by Oasis Design, is the presence of a capped stub-out that is intended to facilitate connecting to a landscape irrigation system that has not yet been installed in a graywater collecting system.

Graywater Stub Outs: Construction and Inspection Points

• Ecological Design Principles (article)
• Water Storage (book)
• Create an Oasis with Grey Water (book)
• Laundry to Landscape (DVD)
• Builder’s Grey Water Guide (book)
• Testing for water quality (download)
• Additional downloads

• Wild Water Wisdom (article)
• Fruit Tree Chart
• Invincible Bearings
• Plumbing and Masonry Spanish Dictionary (download)
• Wild Water Wisdom (article)

• Mass heaters (book)
• Flow splitters (hardware)
• Diverter Valves (hardware)
• Order information
• Return policy

• Water Storage Extras
• Water for Fire Safety (pdf, 500k)

• Results of water testing in Maruata
• Fecal coliform levels

• Results of the Maruata water test
• Readings of fecal coliforms.

• Slow sand filters
• An eco-luxury bathing room
• An eco village home
• An indigenous community
• And more.

• Grey water blunders to avoid
• A system selection chart (PDF)
• And more. The Greywater Site Assessment/System Checklist (PDF)
• Stub outs
• Treatment efficacy as a function of wastewater application depth
• Septic system that is environmentally friendly
• Greywater in cold areas
• Greywater greenhouse
• Greywater in hot climes

• Among the topics covered are the California Greywater Policy Center, Arizona Gray Water Law, New Mexico Greywater Law, UPC CPC improvements, IPC improvements, and Guidance for Regulators. A Model Greywater Ordinance (pdf) is available. History of greywater codes
• Bacterial levels in water indicator samples (xls)

• Valves (hardware)
• Flow splitters (hardware)
• Septic and sewage
• Diverter valves (hardware)

• Watson Wicks
• Septic system failure
• Sewerswater quality

• Can a 4000 square foot home be environmentally friendly? Living in harmony with nature

• Ecological design photographs
• Naturebalance gallery
• Eco village home
• Indigenous community
• Yurt bath house
• Integrated Design for Fire
• Ecological book design
• Ecological design photos

• Cultivate a culture of sustainability
• Integrate fire safety into your design

• The following forms are available: consulting enquiry
• Consulting pricing terms
• Oasis design specialty
• Site Evaluation Form
• Eco Home Checklist (pdf)

• Bearings that are invincible
• Bike that is both healthy and attractive
• What is the safety of bicycling
• What does driving cost (with transportation and bicycles)? The Bicycle as a Mode of Transportation (work in progress)

• Toilet Alternatives (book)
• Earth, Orchard Toilet Plans
• Toilet Alternatives (website).

• The biography of Art Ludwig
• Why you may put your confidence in this information
• Policy on the Use of Content

Homeowners: How to construct them correctlyRegulators: How to inspect them

Excerpted from the books Create an Oasis with Grey Water and The Builder’s Grey Water Guide (book). Consider the California Plumbing Code as well as the Uniform Plumbing Code before making your decision. In the case of a graywater collecting system, this is piping that runs from within the house to either a surge tank (if there is one) or a location a few feet outside the home (dependingon how you define it). Stub outs are a type of greywater collecting piping that terminates at a stop cap. They make it simple to divert graywater to a future graywater system that will be installed during the building of a house, without the need to install the whole graywater system at the time of construction.

There are various advantages to removing the graywater collection portion of the system without removing the graywater distribution portion of the system:

• First and foremost, in order to get the optimum results, the graywater distribution system must be implemented simultaneously with the landscaping. In many cases, the landscaping will not be completed until months or even years after the structure has been built and assessed. In addition, deferring development on a majority of the system until after occupancy reduces the economic obstacle that must be overcome in order to achieve occupancy
• Graywater systems are evolving at a rapid pace. In the event that the owner’s requirements are not met by a currently availablegraywater system, it seems reasonable to stub outgraywater lines in the hope that other system types will become available throughout the long life of the house. Lines that are entombed under a slab without stubouts are lost to the world for all time.

Given that they are a subset of builder’s considerations, we’ll start by looking at graywater collection and stub out requirements from the inspector’s perspective, and then we’ll look at the extra considerations for builders after that.

For Regulators: How to inspect graywater collection plumbing/ stub outs

According to the Arizona Gray Water Law, only the following can be said concerning collecting plumbing: Sixth, the gray water system is designed such that, in the event of a blockage, clogging, or backlog, gray water can be diverted into the sewage collection system or into the onsite wastewater treatment and disposal system, as appropriate. 7. There is just one statement regarding stub outs in the California Plumbing Code, which is reprinted below in context (it is highlighted at the conclusion of the document): Inspection and testing at the G-5 level.

• All relevant requirements of this Appendix, as well as Section 103.5 of the Uniform Commercial Code, must be followed.
• System components must be correctly recognized in terms of their manufacturer.
• 4.
• When irrigation design is based on soil tests, the irrigation fields must be constructed at the same position and depth as the soil testing area.
• 6.
• It is possible to provide for the future connection of graywater stub-out plumbing prior to the construction of irrigation lines and landscaping.

The stub-out should be permanently labelled with the words “GRAYWATER STUB-OUT, DANGER – UNSAFE WATER” on the outside. Isn’t there much to go on here? (On graywater stub outs, the UPC is completely deafeningly quiet.)

Here’sour checklist for inspection of collection plumbing/ stub outs:

According to Appendix G, Section G-5 (a)-7, the stub out is permanently marked with the words “GRAYWATER STUB-OUT, DANGER – UNSAFE WATER” (above)

Required elsewhere in plumbing codes:

Pipes must slope at a minimum of 1/4 inch per foot in all flow directions entering and leaving the diversion (the only way to do this with currently available 3way valves is to tweak the pipes in the hubs, which do not provide for slope). Every 270° of aggregate bend has a cleanout in the middle of it.

Not mentioned in code but should be required in inspection:

Because the diversion is located downstream of the vents and traps, they will be able to execute their functions in either the graywater or septic/sewer modes as needed. In the case of a stub out, the valve should be in the sewer position, and the stub out line to the future graywater distribution system should be securely closed off.

Other considerations

Three-way valves with a detachable cover plate can be used as cleanouts in all three directions if the cover plate is removed. Three-way valves of the “Jandy” kind, the most popular form, can be used in any orientation; however, ensure that the builder has positioned the moveable “input” designation on the valve cover to the port that is receiving the inlet water before using the valve. In order not to overstate the obvious, please ensure that there is no toilet connected upstream of the graywater diversion system (downstream is OK, upstream connection through ventpipe connected 12″ above spill point of highest fixture is allowed).

Keep in mind that check valves are not necessary for any other sort of waste plumbing or clogging source, and they serve as an efficient trap to prevent plumbing snakes from being retracted after being deployed.

Different diversion valves to multiple exits, as well as a single main diversion valve, are also acceptable techniques.

Exemplification of Dual Waste Collection Plumbing for a New Slab (Figure).

For Builders: How to designconstruct collection plumbing and graywaterstub outs

There is a lot more information about collection plumbing in the book Create an Oasis with Grey Water.

One outlet or many?

To begin, make a decision on whether to collect all of the graywater in one location and then divert it through a single valve and spread it from there, or divert graywater at numerous locations using multiple valves and begin with the water that has already been partly disseminated. Having plumb it one way or the other, you are committed to your decision. Create an Oasis with Grey Water discusses all of the factors to take into account before making this option.

Outlet(s) as high as possible

Following that, it’s vital to position the house’s outlet(s) as high as feasible on the building’s exterior.

While having a high number of outlets might add to the workload, the importance of having a big number of outlets cannot be overstated. A similar topic is addressed in the article “Create an Oasis with Graywater.”

Valve handle(s) accessible

When using or getting ready to use a fixture, the position of a diversion valve should be visible, its position should be changeable while using the fixture or without having to leave the fixture, and its position should be secured to prevent interference by youngsters and curious guests. Sometimes this may be accomplished by extending the valve handle extensions, but in many cases there is no choice than crawling through a crawl space in order to adjust the position of the valve.

Valves serviceable

Installation of no-hub connections (which utilize detachable clamps instead of glue) on the valves is recommended so that the valves may be completely removed and replaced if necessary without having to cut any pipes. If there isn’t enough room (for example, street angles plugging straight into the valve), silicone sealant can be used in place of the ABS glue. Despite the fact that this creates a watertight seal, the fitting may be simply removed.

Valve sources

Installation of no-hub connections (which utilize detachable clamps instead of glue) on the valves is recommended so that the valves may be completely removed and replaced if necessary without cutting any pipes. Instead of ABS glue, you can use silicone sealant if there isn’t enough room (for example, street angles plugging straight into the valve). However, the fitting may be simply removed, resulting in a watertight seal.

Professional installation

In order to be able to remove the complete valve for servicing or replacement without having to cut up any pipes, I recommend using no-hub connections (which employ detachable clamps instead of glue). If there isn’t enough room (for example, street angles plugging straight into the valve), silicone sealant can be used in place of ABS glue. Although this creates a watertight seal, the fitting may be simply removed.

1. I recommend installing the valves with no-hub connectors (which utilize detachable clamps instead of glue) so that you may remove the entire valve for servicing or replacement without having to cut any pipes. If there is no room (for example, street angles plugging straight into the valve), silicone sealant can be used in place of ABS glue. This creates a watertight seal, yet the fitting may be readily removed.

More info

• Building a Grey Water Oasis (book)
• Creating an Oasis with Grey Water (website)
• Create an Oasis with Grey Water (book)
• Laundry to Landscape (DVD)
• Create an Oasis with Grey Water (DVD). Greywater’s New Book and Video Set is now available: The New and Improved Create an Oasis, the Builder’s Greywater Guide, the Principles of Ecological Design, and the Laundry to Landscape teaching DVD are some of the resources available. $51.80 (a savings of $13.80)

Catalogue|Browse|Search at the top of this page Creative Commons License Art Ludwig 1997-2018 Policy on the Use of Content

How to Run a Septic Tank Line From Your House

A septic system is made up of two lengths of pipe that are connected together. Initially, it runs from the house, where the system services are located, to a tank, where the waste is separated and solids settle out. The second section runs from the tank to the drainage field, where fluids from the tank are dispersed into the earth underneath the tank. The process of installing the first run of pipe is quite similar to that of installing a traditional sewage line. It is necessary to maintain a downhill slope to the storage tank.

Locating the Septic Tank

The tank serves as the nerve center of the septic system. It is required to be situated between the residence and the drainage field. Each and every septic installation must begin with a soil test, and depending on the results, soil conditions may necessitate the placement of the tank in a less-than-ideal site for digging sewer lines. Also required are minimum setback distances from property borders, functioning wells, surface water and other obstructions to provide a safe working environment.

Due to the fact that the tank intake pipe slopes toward the tank, the more away the tank is from the house, the deeper you must dig in the ground to reach it.

Tank Depth

A standard septic tank has a 4-inch intake at the top, which is positioned towards the bottom. Ideally, a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the pipe from the house should be maintained by the pipe connecting to it. To put it another way, for every 10 feet of distance between a tank and a home, the inlet must be 2 1/2 inches lower than where the pipe departs the house at its lowest point. The pipe usually exits at ground level, although it may need to pass beneath a foundation footing or concrete pad in rare cases.

Digging the Trench

The trench for the septic pipe should be dug before the hole for the tank since you will need a backhoe to complete the work and the tank will get in your way if it is already in the ground. To allow rainfall to drain properly, the pipe should be placed on a 2- or 3-inch bed of drain rock, so remember to account for this extra depth when digging. It is normal to use a four-inch pipe, and it should be installed far enough down to link with the main soil stack, which is a three-inch pipe that runs vertically past the main bathroom and through the roof of the home.

Precautions

Local building and health agencies will demand permits for a septic tank installation. You will also be required to submit a design plan before the permits will be provided, so prepare ahead of time. This layout should be developed in collaboration with a local builder who is familiar with the unique characteristics of the topography in your neighborhood. Stay away from planting trees or plants near the tank, drainage field, or any of the pipe systems. They will be drawn to the pipes in their hunt for nutrition, and their roots will be able to successfully block them.

Removal may be both expensive and time-consuming.

Tips for Excavating and Setting Septic Tanks

Get articles, news, and videos about Onsite Systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plus, there are Onsite Systems. Receive Notifications Potential tank movement after installation is quantifiable, predictable, and avoidable if proper precautions are taken. The possibility of future difficulties is reduced if the original soil, bedding materials, depth to groundwater, backfill materials, and prospective stress loads are properly evaluated in the first place. When installing a tank, make sure to follow any manufacturer-specific installation instructions that may be included.

1. Verify that the tank(s) are at the proper height and orientation in relation to the design.
2. When connecting the stub-out to the tank, the collecting pipe should have a slope of between 1 and 2 percent (or 1/8 to 1/4 inch drop per foot of run) to ensure proper drainage.
3. Note that in systems that rely solely on gravity flow, the height of the soil treatment area serves as the regulating elevation, which is particularly essential.
4. If there are any preceding components that send effluent to a dosing tank by gravity flow, the height of the dosing tank intake is determined by the elevation of those components; it must be set deep enough.
5. Tanks should be kept as shallow as feasible in order to reduce soil pressure, limit potential groundwater intrusion, and make maintenance operations more efficient.
6. These precautions may only be necessary during the installation process, but they may also be required as a permanent element of the system on rare occasions.

It is important to note that the requirement for dewatering indicates that the safety risk on the site has greatly increased. Precautions must be taken, as well as OSHA norms and requirements, to prevent injury. Dewatering can be accomplished by a variety of means, including:

• When working on sites with finer-textured soils, a hole at one end of the excavation is ideal since the movement through the soil is slow enough that a pump can keep up with it. Once the backfilling process has begun, the pump must be disconnected. There is a hole with a sump: At the conclusion of the excavation, a slotted pipe filled with washed rock acts as a sump for collecting water. Water is removed from the slotted pipe by a pump that is mounted within the pipe. This technology permits the backfilling procedure to continue while the dewatering process is still in progress. The plan should include suitable management measures if this is a long-term scenario
• Otherwise, the plan should be revised. These are used to manage the regional water table in sandy soils, and they must be developed and placed far in advance of the excavation to ensure proper operation. In situations where water enters the excavation more quickly than a sump can dewater it, this option is used. This application may or may not be permanent, and it is frequently subject to stringent regulations.

Before installing a level tank, the excavation must be level (with bedding material, if necessary) and clear of any big rocks or debris, which must be removed prior to installing the tank. It is critical that the base of all tanks be stabilized with adequate bedding before the tank may be used. Natural dirt can sometimes be used as a good bedding material in certain circumstances. This is something that the installer should confirm with the local authorities. To ensure that the bottom of the hole remains relatively undisturbed, it is critical to avoid overexcavating native soil while using it as bedding in order to retain relatively undisturbed conditions at the bottom of the hole.

• It may be essential to add clean granular material to reestablish the proper height when this occurs.
• It does not matter what type of material was used to build the tank; the bedding material for all tanks should be devoid of clods, big pebbles, frozen materials, and garbage, among other things.
• Material requirements for bedding nonconcrete tanks should be obtained from the manufacturer in advance of usage.
• It is possible to regulate the migration of penalties in two ways: either by purposefully allowing vacant areas to fill during the installation process or by using steps to prevent fines from migrating after the installation is complete.
• Alternatively, washed rock that has been graded so that any vacuum areas are filled with smaller particles can be utilized to fill in the gaps.
• Indicate the type of bedding material used as well as the depth of bedding.
• Some scenarios may need the installation of a concrete pad in order to successfully hold the grade and establish a solid foundation.

A concrete tank with a clean bottom can form a bond with wet concrete, reducing the amount of buoyancy it has in the water.

It is possible that putting a tank with a nonlevel bottom on a dry concrete surface will result in pressure points that will cause the tank’s bottom to shatter.

Guarantee that the tank’s structural integrity is not compromised once it has been installed in the excavation to ensure that no damage or movement has taken place.

This is necessary in order to ensure that the inlet and outflow are at the proper relative elevations with respect to one another.

It is vital to adhere to OSHA safety regulations.

She has a master’s degree in civil engineering and a doctorate in environmental engineering.

Her responsibilities include serving as the education chair for the Minnesota Onsite Wastewater Association and the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association, as well as serving on the National Science Foundation’s International Committee on Wastewater Treatment Systems.

Send an email to [email protected] if you have any concerns concerning septic system care and operation. Heger will respond as soon as possible.

pitch on main waste line to septic stub out

More than 680,000 posts that are solely devoted to plumbing Welcome to Plbg.com, formerly known as the PlumbingForum.com. Plumbing advice, aid, do-it-yourself, instructional, and informational plumbing forums may be found nowhere else online (strictly speaking). The following are questions and conversations pertaining only to PLUMBING-related concerns: toilets and sinks; faucets; drainage; venting; water heating; showers; pumps; water quality; and other plumbing-related difficulties. Avoid asking where to buy products, or any business-related or legal queries, or for contractor references, or any other questions that are not directly relevant to plumbing, such as where to find a plumber.

Our website is 100% free, and there are no advertisements or pop-ups.

We are made possible by the following:

pitch on main waste line to septic stub out
Author:djc2161 (TN)Hello, Hope someone can point me in the right direction. I am installing final waste line to stub out from septic tank. Distance is about 21 feet from the stubbed pipe under the house to the main line coming from bath and kitchen. The stubbed pipe is about ground level and the main waste line is about 26 inches. I know the waste line is supposed to drop about a quarter inch to half inch per foot. at the distance I am going, that will not match up to the stubbed pipe. Is it acceptable to put a vertical pipe with a long sweep or a couple of 45s with a cleanout y to tie it all together? Would that pass inspection? Hope that makes sense.Thank for any help or suggestions
Post Reply

Re: pitch on main waste line to septic stub out
Author:packy (MA)1/4 inch is minimum required. anything greater than that violates no code.codes are concerned about installing cleanouts for changes of direction and very long horizontal distances.for yours, a “Y” and end cleanout is the way i would go.
Post Reply

• Messages that are inappropriate or that are obvious advertisements will be removed. Unfortunately, we cannot be held liable for incorrect or insufficient advise
• Furthermore, Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages placed on this site. Please use caution when clicking on external links
• Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing-related advice and NOT for questions about pricing or costs, where to find a product (try Google), how to operate or promote a business, or questions about ethics (law) and the like
• Plbg.com is also not a place to ask questions about radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical, or even general construction type questions
• Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing-related advice and NOT We are only here to answer plumbing-related questions.

It is not acceptable to post inappropriate or overtly commercial messages. Unfortunately, we cannot be held liable for incorrect or insufficient advise; furthermore, Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from posts made on this forum. Please use caution when clicking on external links; Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing-related advice and NOT for questions about pricing or costs, where to find a product (try Google), how to operate or promote a business, or questions about ethics (law) and the like; Plbg.com is also not a place to ask questions about radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical, or even general construction type questions; Plbg.com is not a place to ask questions about plumbing-related Questions about plumbing are the only ones we handle.

FAQs — JT’s SEPTIC

Make sure to contact JT’s Septic as soon as possible! It is possible for us to assist you in diagnosing the problem and determining if it is a plumbing issue or a problem directly connected to your septic system. Wastewater backing up into more than one household fixture (even during dry weather), pooling water or muddy soil around your septic system or in your basement are all signs that your system needs to be checked. If you notice any of the following, contact us to have it checked: a strong odor around the septic tank and/or drainfield

Should I Use Septic Tank Additives?

According to current research, there is no clear proof that these items can prevent septic system failure or that they will improve system function. The addition of compounds to a septic tank will not eliminate the necessity for routine tank cleaning. Septic tank cleansers, rejuvenators, and primers that are promoted as such will not hurt your system, but they will not benefit it either. However, there is already a large amount of bacteria in the tank that will break down waste products, so using enzymes or yeast would not hurt your system at all.

Septic system additives should be avoided, according to the North Dakota State University Agriculture Communication. “Do Septic System Additives Work?” you might wonder. -Tank Refueling Station

what are the PVC pipes sticking up in my yard?

Septic tank cleanouts are often located between the home and the septic tank, and they are used to snake the input line from the house to the tank. If the PVC markers are labeled with “JT’s Septic,” they indicate that they are marking the access lids to your septic tank (buried directly under the labels). Alternatively, if the pipes are further away and appear to be arbitrarily arranged in relation to the house or tank, it is possible that they are inspection ports used to check the amount of liquid in the disposal area.

will household cleaning products harm my system?

The majority of specialists believe that the usual use of household cleaning solutions will not harm the system since it will not prevent the activity of bacteria in the tank from taking place as intended. A large amount of some chemicals, on the other hand, may interfere with the breakdown of wastes in the tank or cause the soil treatment area to get clogged. Please remember that the goods you use may ultimately make their way into the groundwater systems in your community.

How Often Should I Pump My Septic Tank?

Most tanks require pumping every 3-5 years, depending on the size of the tank, the amount of wastewater that flows into the tank on a daily basis, and whether or not the tank is equipped with a trash disposal. The state of Arizona currently does not have any laws requiring maintenance and inspection (with the exception of those pertaining to the sale of a home), but the Environmental Protection Agency and local health departments strongly recommend routine maintenance to help prevent groundwater contamination due to nitrogen, phosphorus, and disease-causing bacteria that can be found in wastewater.

I just had my tank pumped and it already looks full!?!

There is a distinction between being full and being overfull! An empty septic tank will fill up as quickly as you use up the quantity of gallons it can contain in terms of water use. The tank is designed to maintain a liquid level at or near the bottom of the outflow pipe at all times. (that exits into the disposal area). When you look down into your tank, it should appear to be completely filled. It is necessary to hire an expert to assess the quantity of scum and sludge in your tank in order to decide when it is time to pump it out.

Does anyone have to be home to have jt’s pump my septic tank?

We usually advise people to have someone at their house for our service, but it is not mandatory. Our service technicians are quick and fast when it comes to finding and pumping out a problem. We enjoy having a homeowner and/or a Realtor on site for our inspections so that they may discuss any concerns that we may discover. If we happen to miss you during our service, we are more than pleased to accept a credit card payment over the phone.

Does JT’s Septic do leach line work?

Having someone present for our service is usually recommended; however, it’s not mandatory. Locating and pumping are carried out by our service pros in a timely manner.

We enjoy having a homeowner and/or a real estate agent present during our inspections to discuss any concerns that we may uncover. During our service, if we are unable to locate you, we will gladly accept your credit card payment over the telephone.

Why can’t you pump my septic tank out of the sewer cleanouts?

We usually urge people to have someone present for our service, but it is not needed. Our service technicians are quick and efficient when it comes to identifying and pumping out leaks. We enjoy having a homeowner and/or a Realtor on site for our inspections so that they may assess any concerns that we may uncover. If we happen to miss you during our service, we are more than pleased to collect your credit card information over the phone.

how do you know the size of my tank?

Our experts and inspectors can identify the size of the tank based on the form of the tank; tanks for a normal residence are generally 1,000 or 1,250 gallons in capacity, respectively (tanks may be smaller or larger depending on bedroom count, style of tank, etc). Our trucks are outfitted with clear sight glasses, allowing our specialists to keep track of the number of gallons they are extracting from your tank. Our specialists are also trained to measure the tank measurements on the job site in order to establish the approximate gallon capacity.

why do you recommend routine maintenance and frequent pump outs when I’ve not a had a problem in the last 10 years and I’ve never had my tank pumped?

Even while many homeowners are able to go several years over the suggested maintenance time without experiencing any problems, harm is gradually being done. Solids that are insoluble in water and cannot be broken down by natural microbes are stored in the tank. This builds up over time until the tank no longer has enough space to hold everything. As a result, the solids make their way to the drain field where they fill up the pores in the earth, causing poor drainage and, eventually, the failure of the septic system and drainfield.

How long will my septic system last?

All septic systems have a defined life span, which means they will ultimately cease to function. The length of time a system will survive is determined by the system’s size, installation, soil composition, the water table, neighboring trees and roots, the amount of usage and abuse, and, most crucially, the frequency with which it is maintained and pumped.

if I have a garbage disposal Can i use it?

Yes! It is OK to use the garbage disposal for a limited amount of time, such as for food crumbs that remain after doing the dishes. Pump outs will be more frequent if the disposal is used more frequently, which will result in higher costs. The usage of a trash disposal can have a negative impact on your septic system by increasing the quantity of suspended particles that enter the system. Soil treatment areas can get clogged with suspended particles, which reduces the soil’s ability to remove waste.

CAN I FLUSH WET WIPESFEMININE HYGIENE PRODUCTS?

No! The presence of this problem is one of the most prevalent we see in tanks. Wipes and/or feminine hygiene items block sewer pipes and do not decompose properly in the holding tank, causing backups.

how often can i do laundry?

It is critical not to overburden your computer system. Instead of completing a large number of loads in a single day, try to spread them out over the course of a week. Doing no more than two loads of laundry every day – one in the morning and one in the evening – is advised.

Can I have a water softener system with a septic system?

It is unlikely that a water softener will cause damage to most septic systems, albeit they may necessitate the installation of a somewhat bigger tank disposal area.

Can We Drive Over Our Leach Field?

Neither driving on the leach field nor on the entrance and exit sewer pipes, nor on the septic tank, is suggested by the manufacturer. It is possible to restrict or slow down efficient evaporation by compacting the soil over the leach lines. Evaporation is a critical component of the drainage and disposal process. It is possible to induce settling and even rupture of sewage pipes by driving over them. It is possible to produce cracks in a tank by driving over it, especially if it is made of fiberglass or plastic.

do i have a septic systeM?

Do you utilize well water in your home? Is there no meter on the water main that leads into your home? Do your water bill or property tax bill display a “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged” or “$0.00 Sewer Amount Charged”? What about your next-door neighbors? Do they have a septic system? Your home may have a septic system if any of the following questions were answered affirmatively:

How do I find my septic system?

Once you’ve confirmed that you have a septic system, you may identify it by looking at your home’s “as built” drawing, inspecting your yard for lids and manhole covers, or calling us for assistance.

How Far Does The Tank Have To Be Away From The House?

The normal setback distance from the home is 10 feet. Yavapai County is committed to upholding this obligation. Keep these setbacks as they are to allow for easier access and to avoid any potential foundation and moisture concerns.

An alarm is going off in my tank- what do I do?!

The sirens on certain alternative systems alert the homeowner to a possible problem prior to effluent or waste backing up into the house. The alarm may sound to warn a problem with the electrical system or a high quantity of liquid in the tank. A pump or float may be malfunctioning, in which case it is recommended to contact either JT’s or your alternate system maintenance provider for assistance as soon as possible.

Can I Plant A Tree Over My Leach Field?

No. Root invasion from trees is one of the most prevalent problems that affect septic systems today. Certain species of trees are extremely harmful to your septic system and should be avoided at all costs. Please check your local nursery for further information.

does jt’s provide portable storage tanks?

We’re sorry, but we don’t provide portable storage tanks at the present moment.

can jt’s facilitate a pipeline repair?

Yes! We are capable of repairing and replacing sewer inlet and outlet pipes. Our main line sewer camera service may also be used to plan infrastructure maintenance, as well as to aid with any and all forms of repair work. Please contact us if you would like to book a service.

why do you suggest running a sewer camera down my line?

A difficult blockage may necessitate the services of more than one plumber. Pipe obstructions can be caused by a variety of factors, including tree roots, grease, aging pipes, and foreign items. Our power snakes and Ridgid sewer cameras are excellent tools for identifying problems such as the following: Pipes that are broken, cracked, corroded, or collapsed are considered damaged and must be repaired or replaced. A clog is caused by a deposit of grease or a foreign item that prevents the passage of water.

Joints that are leaking—the seals between pipes have failed, enabling liquid to leak through. Root invasion occurs when tree or shrub roots penetrate the sewage system, limiting normal flow and/or causing a clog in the pipe.* The following is the source:

Sewer Clean Out for Residential Homes 101

a wooded trail / Photo courtesy of Fotolia Septic system failures can be prevented by utilizing a variety of fail-safes in contemporary plumbing. Your home is well-protected against sewage backups, with everything from drain traps to sump pumps and vent pipes. The sewage clean out is an extremely vital component of this system, and you should be aware of its existence. Despite its harmless look, having one or more clean outs in your home’s sewage line may have a significant impact on both the health of your sewer line and the health of your wallet.

What is a Sewer Clean Out?

In most cases, the sewer clean out is a capped pipe that is positioned on or near your property line and connects to the lateral sewage line. In plumbing, a lateral sewer line is a pipe that links the sewage lines in your house to either the municipal sewer system or your septic tank. Septic waste can back up into drains when the lateral becomes blocked, causing a nuisance as well as potential health risks for anyone who are exposed to it. Maintaining your sewer pipes and draining water in the event of a backup are two important benefits of having a clean out.

How to Find the Sewer Clean Out

The sewer clean out is a tiny, capped conduit that protrudes from the ground surface. Unfortunately, finding it is not always straightforward. The fact that many homes have several clean outs and, in some rare circumstances, the clean out is actually placed within the house just adds to the complexity of the situation. The methods that follow should assist you in finding the clean out more quickly.

1. The Sidewalk Should Be Checked– In many localities, the location where your lateral joins the municipal sewer line is indicated on the sidewalk. Along the curb and sidewalk, look for a letter ‘S’ that has been stamped or painted. If you come across this marker, you may easily visualize a straight line from the mark to your house, where the lateral may be located if you look closely. In certain situations, you may even be fortunate enough to come upon a clean out in the neighborhood of where you are looking. Search Near Your Foundation– In many circumstances, locating the sewer clean out near the road is impractical, or the home’s former owners elected to have more than one sewer clean out built. In these cases, you should search near your foundation. When you have a septic system in place, sewer clean outs are also typically positioned close to the home’s location. If you are more than three feet from the foundation, you will most likely find the cap anywhere between the road or septic tank and the point at which your home’s sewage line exits the foundation and enters the ground
2. Look for extra clean outs inside– Some homes, particularly older ones, may have clean outs that are either hidden within the structure or protrude from the exterior walls of the structure. Check the basements, crawl spaces, and attic for probable vent pipe sites along with the vent pipe. Most of the time, indoor sewer clean outs will look to be a junction with one side of the Y or T shaped intersection being capped. These are important for keeping your interior pipelines in good condition, even if they are not essential.

What if the Property Lacks a Sewer Clean Out?

It is possible that older properties may not have a sewer clean out. The latter is particularly true if one is not obligated to do so by municipal or state plumbing regulations. It is typically preferable to have one installed in such situations. Sometimes your home has a clean out that has just been covered up by dirt, which is another situation. If you suspect the house has a clean out but have been unable to identify it, you may want to conduct some light digging along the ground where you assume the clean out should be in order to locate it.

Benefits of a Sewer Clean Out

While having a sewage clean out is mandated by law in certain jurisdictions, if you have an older property or live in a state where they are optional, you may find yourself without one. There are, however, various advantages to having a clean out installed on your home, including the following:

Lower Maintenance Costs

The clean out gives you direct access to the sewage lateral on your property’s property. This means that a plumbing professional may monitor the water flow from each individual faucet in your home to verify that there are no blockages or other pipe concerns during their monthly maintenance visits.

Cheaper and Easier Cleaning

Your property’s sewer lateral may now be reached directly through the clean out.

In practice, this means that a plumbing professional may monitor the water flow from each individual tap in your home to verify that there are no blockages or other pipe concerns during their routine maintenance visits.

Protects Your Landscaping

If you have a big clog, one advantage that only becomes evident in an emergency situation is the fact that a sewer clean out can assist eliminate the need to dig up your yard in the case of a clog. The sewer lateral, in contrast to many of the pipes within your home, is totally underground and cannot be inspected for wear or damage without digging the area where it is located. The sewer clean out serves as an entry point for your lateral, allowing it to be more readily examined and maintained.

BackflowPrevention

If you have a significant clog, one advantage that only becomes evident in an emergency situation is the fact that a sewer clean out can assist eliminate the need to dig up your yard if you have a little blockage. It is not possible to inspect for wear or damage in the sewer lateral since it is totally underground, unlike many of the pipes in your home, and thus must be excavated. The sewer clean out serves as an entry point for your lateral, allowing it to be more readily inspected as necessary.

How to Install a Sewer Clean Out

It is necessary to complete many steps in order to install a clean out. Depending on the circumstances, your local municipality may provide programs to assist with the cost of installation, particularly in situations where a sewer clean out was not previously required by code. Before you begin, make sure you check for any available programs or grants, as well as any necessary permissions or licenses. It is also recommended to get expert assistance if you do not have prior experience splicing or installing sections of pipe in order to prevent making costly blunders.

Choosing a Clean Out Type

The first and most important step before starting any work is to choose the sort of sewer clean out you will be using. There are three alternatives accessible at the present time: Double Clean Out– The double clean out is the most common type of clean out used in contemporary installations. It contains two shafts that link to the lateral pipe in a ‘U’ configuration, making it the most common type of clean out used in modern installations. The cap that is closest to your home allows for simple access to the city end of the lateral, but the cap that is closest to the street allows you to preserve the house end of the lateral (see illustration).

Despite its T design, the test tee clean out provides access to both ends of the lateral, but it can be difficult to use for clearing obstructions owing to a 90 degree angle at the intersection.

Excavation and Installation

A segment of pipe will need to be excavated in order to find your lateral line. This can be accomplished using either conventional hand tools or leased equipment, with caution to avoid damaging the lateral pipe. As soon as you have completely exposed the required area of the pipe, you should measure out the length of pipe that will be removed. The type of cutting equipment you’ll need will depend on the material that your lateral pipe is constructed of. Once the undesirable portion has been removed, you will be able to measure, cut, and install the new junction section in its place.

Most of the time, it’s advisable to put a container box around the top to keep it from being overgrown or buried too quickly.

Professional Cleaning Cost with a Sewer Clean Out

Even while cleaning your own lateral line may appear to be a cost-effective choice, there is always the possibility of causing damage to the pipes. A professional plumber can complete the task more efficiently and at a lower cost if they have access to the sewage system through a sewer clean out. As a result, they use less tools and less effort than if they were required to dig up your yard or snake the lateral from an interior location of your property. With a basic estimate range of $99 to $900 and an overall average of $288, HomeAdvisorgives provides a reliable service.

When it comes to costs, CostHelper gives more specific estimates, with an estimated cost of snaking your lateral ranging from $148 to $900, with an average cost of $410.

Additional costs will include a video examination of the line, which will cost between $100 and $800.

Some plumbing businesses may quote you a fixed charge but then urge you to tack on extra services in order to raise the total cost of the job.

Find definitions for common plumbing terms

PlumbingMart is your number one source for plumbing-related information and education on the internet. Drainage “S” Trap: A trap design that directs drainage upward through the floor to meet with the drainage waste vent (DWV). Fitting that taps into the side of a pipe and is used to join an existing line in an expedient fashion. A saddle valve is a valve that is fixed on a pipe that is operated by a clamping mechanism, or saddle tee, and that is used to deliver water to a device that has a low water demand.

• a thread size that is utilized on nuts and bolts, but not on pipe connectors Originally approved in 1976, the Safe Drinking Water Act is an addition to the Public Health Service Act that is intended to safeguard public health by setting uniform drinking water standards across the country.
• A safety shutoff valve is a mechanism installed on a gas appliance that automatically turns off the gas supply to avert a potentially hazardous scenario.
• In order to pass beneath utility piping, rivers, rail lines, roads, and other impediments, a piece of a sewage line is dug deeper into the earth than is customary.
• After passing beneath the barrier, the sewage line is elevated once more to its original height.
• Sanitary Sewer: A home drain that transports wastewater away from the house and into a sewer system or septic tank (also known as a sanitary sewer).
• Scald Guard (also known as a scald guard): Scalr-Guard valves, which use pressure balancing technology, are intended to prevent excessive water temperature swings from occurring.
• This valve helps to keep the temperature of the water consistent, ensuring that you and your family have a safe and comfortable bathing experience.

Schedule: A list of the numbers allocated to various wall thicknesses of pipe (e.g.

Screwdriver Stop: Used in conjunction with tub and shower faucets.

Rainwater scupper: A drain that is often found on a roof or deck that allows rainwater to drain away.

Combustion Heater with Sealed Ventilation: A heater that draws combustion air from outside the structure and exhausts combustion by-products outside the structure.

Pipe having no welds around the perimeter is referred to as seamless pipe.

In this case, the air is encircling the flames and is located outside the burner port openings.

Lime is another name for this plant.

a form of bathroom lavatory or kitchen sink that has a rolled and completed edge, often known as the rim.

Septic Tank: A tank used to retain home wastes in order to allow solids to settle before being distributed.

It is possible to feed a chemical substance into water in order to trap unwanted ions, maintain them in solution, and minimize their effects.

A permanent information plate fitted to important household appliances that contains the serial number, model number, and rating.

Water is heated in a series system when a main heater pre-heats the water to a specified general purpose temperature and then feeds the water into another heater.

In the pumping cycle, service pressure refers to the range of pressure in the pressure tank, which is commonly stated in pounds per square inch of gauge (PSIG).

Service Sink Faucet: Commercial grade faucet used on a service or utility sink.

Pumps: the vertical distance in feet from the top of the well to the top of the pump is measured in feet.

A shallow well is one that has a pumping head of 25 feet or less, allowing the usage of a suction pump to be used.

Typically, half is used “NPT (nonproliferation treaty).

Shower ellipse: A plumbing elbow into which the shower arm is threaded.

The shower ell intake is connected to the vertical water supply line that runs from the bath/shower valve.

With this method, you may add these features to your shower without having to pull down the wall.

Shower Supply Elbow: This is the plumbing elbow into which the shower arm is threaded.

The shower ell intake is connected to the vertical water supply line that runs from the bath/shower valve.

It may include an adjustable spray function as well as a valve that allows you to regulate the flow of water from your shower.

Side Cutter: This is a heavy-duty auger tip that is designed for big diameter pipes.

A sillcock is an outdoor faucet with hose threads on the spout that is used for watering plants.

A hose bibb is another term for this item.

a single threshold shower base is a type of shower base that is used in a three-wall arrangement where the threshold is on the side that contains the door; Singular Basin Sink: A sink that has only a single compartment is referred to as a single basin sink.

Single Hole Sink: A sink or lavatory faucet ledge with a single hole drilling in the center that allows for the installation of a single control faucet.

a single threshold shower base is a type of shower base that is utilized in a three-wall arrangement where the threshold is located on one side of the door.

It is possible that one or more basins will be present, each with a different size.

A tube or pipe through which water flows over a high point as a result of gravity is defined as follows: In toilets, siphoning is the suction or pulling force that occurs when the trapway is completely filled with sewage and waste water.

This is distinguished by the loud gurgling sound that may be heard towards the conclusion of a flush.

b “a pass of the ball The process is similar to reverse trap flushing, but it is more effective.

b Siphon Wash Closet: A toilet with a trapway at the back of the bowl and an incorporated flushing rim, as well as minimum measurements of 5 inches by 5 inches by 5 inches “The water spot is 4″ in diameter, and the ball pass is 1-1/2”.

Slide Bar: A type of shower component that is meant to be used in conjunction with a handshower.

Sliding Inner Door: A door that slides along the radius of the combustion chamber, allowing for easy access to the burner and pilot light.

As a result of its tapered cross section, the slip gasket may be used with a hub-and-spigot pipe assembly.

SMLS is an abbreviation for seamless pipe.

Dispenser for liquid soap or lotion: An accessory that holds liquid soap or moisturizer.

In soap and detergents, soda ash is the conventional term for sodium carbonate, also known as Na 2 CO 3.

Soft Flame: A flame that has been partially deprived of primary air, resulting in the combustion zone being stretched and the inner cone of the flame being ill-defined.

In the construction industry, a soil cutter is a tool for cutting No Hub pipe that consists of a handle and a cutting chain that looks similar to a chain wrench.

All branch waste lines connect to the soil stack, which is the largest vertical drain pipe in the system.

When melted, solder may fuse metal components together, forming a fusion junction between the metal parts.

Solenoids are coils of wire shaped like cylinders that, when conducting a current, resemble bar magnets in their magnetic field.

Solutes are solids that are dissolved in liquids, such as minerals present in water.

The term “soot” refers to a black material, primarily composed of microscopic carbon particles, that can be produced by incomplete combustion and manifest itself as smoke.

The Spark Test is a process that is used to determine the integrity of the glass lining.

It is the amount of heat required to increase the temperature of a kilogram of a substance one degree Celsius that is known as specific heat.

The spigot is put into the bell end of the following pipe in order to create a watertight junction.

In some cases, a spline adapter is required to form a mating connection between the splines of a valve stem and the splines within a faucet handle.

Measure the vertical distance between the base of the faucet and the top of the spout reach to determine the spout height.

Spores are specialized reproductive bodies or resting cells that have the ability to withstand adverse conditions that would otherwise destroy the parent organism.

A digging tool that combines the characteristics of a shade and a chisel is also available.

Stack: The vertical main in the drain, waste, and vent system that extends one or more stories in the building’s construction.

Stainless steel sinks are a type of material that is utilized in the production of kitchen sinks.

Press operations that are not listed here include punching of faucet holes and forming of fixture rims.

a high vertical pipe or reservoir that is used to maintain a consistent pressure in a water-supply system; a vertical pipe run that supplies water to a fire sprinkler system; a huge vertical pipe into which water is poured in order to create the required pressure The vertical distance between the pump and the highest outlet in the water system is known as the static discharge head.

The quantity of heat lost by a device when it is in standby mode is measured.

Static pressure is the pressure at the valve inlet that is exerted when there is no flow through the valve.

STD stands for standard.

Stiffener: A galvanized bushing used to stiffen tubing to fit in a leadpak coupling.

To turn off the water, turn off the shutoff valve under the sink or toilet.

a plug-type valve used to tap into a water main in order to control the flow of water to a branch line, which has a side hole to shut off the water and enable it to drain out so that the pipe does not freeze a stop and drain fitting Stop Valve: This is the same as a stop.

Storm drains are drains that are used to collect and transport rainwater, surface water, and ground water away from structures.

Straight Pipe Threads: A specific type of straight thread that is exclusively used on iron pipe, toilet and faucet fittings, and is not seen anywhere else.

Simple Straight Stop: A water supply line emergency stop valve often fitted before the water supply line to the toilet and faucets.

Strainer: A sink drain fitting that consists of a strainer body that is affixed to the drain hole and a detachable basket that is used to catch debris.

Pump Strainer Pot: A housing that is located on the influent side of a pump and functions as a priming chamber as well as a receptacle for the strainer basket.

A 90-degree elbow joint with a hub on one end and male threads on the other is known as a Street Ell.

Stub-outs are short sections of pipe that are inserted during the rough-in process and into which fixtures and drains will be fitted later.

Stuffing Box: that section of the pump that contained the packing and now holds the mechanical seal.

Suction Head: The head of the suction side of the pump.

It is made up of the static, pressure, and friction heads combined into one.

This word is only used when the pump centerline is above the suction tank fluid surface.

A white, insoluble chemical is formed in large concentrations when combined with a high calcium hardness, and it is difficult to remove.

Water containing hydrogen sulfide gas is also referred to as sulfuric acid in some circles.

The term sump refers to a pit or pool used for draining, collecting, and storing water.

Supply Kit: This is typically a kit that contains all of the parts necessary to connect a faucet or toilet to the pipes that come out of the wall.

Supply Stop: The valve that controls the flow of toilet water from the tank to the bowl.

In a sump or wet well, a surface pump is the device that removes water or waste water from the area.

SV: S erviceV ictory.

Sweating is a slang word for the process of soldering.

Drain ell with a long radius that allows for the smooth passage of waste is known as a sweep.

Swing Joint: A flexible sprinkler connection formed by connecting three threaded elbow fittings together in a swinging motion.

a spout design that allows the user to move or “swing” the position of the spout to the location where it is required. Are you unable to locate what you are looking for? You can also send us a suggestion and let us know what term you are looking for in particular.