What Heavy Equipment Is Needed To Dig A Septic Tank? (Solved)

You may want to try a different approach to the equipment you use on job sites. Onsite contractors often use two machines for installations: a compact excavator or backhoe for trenching and digging, and a skid-steer loader for soil removal.

  • A backhoe is an indispensable tool in our fleet of service for heavy equipment services for well and septic allows us to dig trenches for laying pipelines, excavate septic tanks, and backfill these trenches and excavations to restore the shape of the land after inspections, repairs, and installations.

Can a backhoe lift a septic tank?

Backhoe lift capacity is most commonly rated based on their boom capacity at 12 ft. “You can lift a septic tank off the truck with no trouble at all,” says Katie Pullen, brand marketing manager for Case backhoe loaders, noting that the boom will be raised high to unload the truck.

How deep should a septic tank be in the ground?

The general rule of thumb is that most septic tanks can be buried anywhere from four inches to four feet underground.

What is septic excavation?

With septic tank excavation, you are improving the functioning of your home for future use when it concerns your plumbing and drainage system. Going with septic tank excavation allows the tank to be professionally pumped to ensure that you will have sufficient room within the tank to continually hold water and waste.

What materials are needed for a septic system?

A typical septic system has four main components: a pipe from the home, a septic tank, a drainfield, and the soil. Microbes in the soil digest or remove most contaminants from wastewater before it even- tually reaches groundwater. Your Septic System is your responsibility!

How much weight can excavator lift?

At a 10-foot radius, lift-over-end capacities of these machines range from 430 to about 10,000 pounds, and lift-over-side capacities go from 210 to 6,700 pounds. 3.

How deep are drain fields buried?

A typical drainfield trench is 18 to 30 inches in depth, with a maximum soil cover over the disposal field of 36 inches.

How do you bury a septic tank?

In most cases, septic tank components including the lid, are buried between 4 inches and 4 feet underground. You can use a metal probe to locate its edges and mark the perimeter. If you do not find the lid by probing, shallow excavation with a shovel along the tank’s perimeter should reveal the lid.

How long do septic tanks last?

A septic system’s lifespan should be anywhere from 15 to 40 years. How long the system lasts depends on a number of factors, including construction material, soil acidity, water table, maintenance practices, and several others.

How do you prepare a septic tank?

Preparing Your Property for Septic Tank Installation

  1. Remove the Old Septic System.
  2. Get Necessary Permits.
  3. Get A Soil Test.
  4. Clear the Area.
  5. Let Your Neighbors Know.
  6. Stock Up on Drinking Water.
  7. Arrange Toilet and Shower Plans.
  8. Learn About Septic System Maintenance.

What is the meaning of excavation in history?

excavation, in archaeology, the exposure, recording, and recovery of buried material remains.

What material is best for a septic tank?

The best choice is a precast concrete septic tank. Precast septic tanks hold many advantages over plastic, steel, or fiberglass tanks. This is why so many cities and towns actually require the use of concrete septic tanks.

What are the 3 types of septic systems?

Types of Septic Systems

  • Septic Tank.
  • Conventional System.
  • Chamber System.
  • Drip Distribution System.
  • Aerobic Treatment Unit.
  • Mound Systems.
  • Recirculating Sand Filter System.
  • Evapotranspiration System.

Are septic tanks made of concrete?

Modern septic tanks are made out of either industrial plastic or precast concrete. Some tanks are also made of fiberglass, though this material is uncommon in the United States. Concrete is inherently watertight, whereas plastic and fiberglass must undergo extra processes in order to hold water.

Every Installer Needs the Perfect-Sized Excavator

Seth Dixon, owner of SRD Excavation/Construction in Williston, North Dakota, poses with his dependable Case excavator during a job site visit.

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Receive Excavating articles, news, and videos delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Excavating+ Receive Notifications Seth Dixon, the owner of SRD Construction/Excavation in Williston, North Dakota, depends heavily on a genuine workhorse when it comes to installing septic systems: a 2012 Case CX210 excavator from Case Construction. He believes the equipment is difficult to beat in terms of raw power, production, and dependability. “It moves dirt quite quickly,” he explains.

The item may be transported without the use of a large low-boy trailer.” Also a plus, according to Dixon, is that the unit’s hydraulic quick-coupling mechanism, which allows operators to shift between different-sized buckets in a matter of seconds, makes life easier for them.

  • “After that, you grab another bucket and attach it to the first one.
  • In addition to having a maximum digging depth of 21 feet 8 inches and a maximum reach (at ground level) of 31 feet 7 inches, the CX210 has a bucket digging force of 34,600 ft-lb, a drawbar pull of 43,200 ft-lb, and is equipped with an air-conditioned cab.
  • The machine’s power is a significant asset.
  • What’s the upshot?
  • His final comment is that the machine has served him well, noting that he uses it for around 1,500 hours per year and that he has had just minor repairs.
  • More information on Dixon’s firm, SRD Construction/Excavation, can be found in the February issue of Onsite Installer.
  • (Image courtesy of James Robinson) The depth of a drainfield being excavated by Colby Nichols and his Yanmar ViO75 mini-excavator is measured by North Iowa Septic Solutions employee Scott Chapin, who is working on a septic system installation job with his company, North Iowa Septic Solutions.

The image is courtesy of Greg Simac.

(Image courtesy of James Robinson) Dig-It Excavating finished the sand beds for the Honor Credit Union project with a Cat 299D loader fitted with a Harley Rake attachment.

Featured image courtesy of Lucian Witmer of Lucian Allen Photography.

(Image courtesy of James Robinson) Barry Zink (owner of Zinks Septic Solutions) and Randy Seavert are moving a Norweco Singulair Green unit in the company yard with a Bobcat E55 excavator.

In order to excavate the trench, a Hyundai Robex 140 LCD-7 excavator was employed.

(Image courtesy of James Robinson) Atlantic On Site Services owner Courtney Stephenson digs a ditch with her pink Bobcat E50 compact excavator while working on a septic tank installation job site adjacent to her second Bobcat E50 compact excavator, which is covered in blue.

In this photo, he is operating a Bobcat 418 mini-excavator on a house construction site.

(Photo courtesy of Bruce Bell) During a septic installation, Colby Nichols of North Iowa Septic Solutions controls a Case TR270 skid loader equipped with a Stout Skeleton Rock Bucket while covering chambers in the drainfield with Stout Skeleton Rock. (Photo courtesy of Mark Hirsch)

Septic Tank Installation and Pricing

To process and dispose of waste, a septic system has an underground septic tank constructed of plastic, concrete, fiberglass, or other material that is located beneath the earth. Designed to provide a customized wastewater treatment solution for business and residential locations, this system may be installed anywhere. Although it is possible to construct a septic tank on your own, we recommend that you hire a professional to do it owing to the amount of skill and specific equipment required.

Who Needs a Septic Tank?

For the most part, in densely populated areas of the nation, a home’s plumbing system is directly connected to the municipal sewer system. Because municipal sewer lines are not readily available in more rural regions, sewage must be treated in a septic tank. If you’re moving into a newly constructed house or onto land that doesn’t already have a septic tank, you’ll be responsible for putting in a septic system on your own.

How to Prepare for Your Septic Tank Installation

Here are a few pointers to keep in mind to make sure your septic tank installation goes as smoothly as possible.

Receive Multiple Estimates

Receiving quotations from licensed septic tank installers and reading reviews about each firm using trustworthy, third-party customer evaluations should be done before any excavation or signing of any paperwork is done. Examine your options for a contractor and make sure they have the appropriate insurance and license, as well as the ability to include critical preparations such as excavation and drain field testing in their quotation.

Test the Soil and Obtain a Permit

For septic systems to function properly, permeable soil surrounding the tank must absorb and naturally handle liquid waste, ensuring that it does not pollute runoff water or seep into the groundwater. The drain or leach field is the name given to this region. Before establishing a septic tank, you are required by law to do a percolation test, sometimes known as a “perc” test. This test indicates that the soil fits the specifications established by the city and the local health agency. In most cases, suitable levels of permeable materials, such as sand or gravel, are necessary in a soil’s composition.

Note: If you wish to install a septic tank on your property, you must first ensure that the ground passes the percolation test.

Plan for Excavation

Excavation of the vast quantity of land required for a septic tank necessitates the use of heavy machinery. If you are presently residing on the property, be careful to account for landscaping fees to repair any damage that may have occurred during the excavation process. Plan the excavation for your new home at a period when it will have the least influence on the construction process if you are constructing a new home.

Typically, this occurs before to the paving of roads and walkways, but after the basic structure of the home has been constructed and erected. Adobe Licensed (Adobe Licensed)

The Cost of Installing a Septic Tank

There are a few installation charges and additional expenditures connected with constructing a new septic system, ranging from a percolation test to emptying the septic tank and everything in between.

Percolation Test

A percolation test can range in price from $250 to $1,000, depending on the area of the property and the soil characteristics that are being tested. Ordinarily, specialists will only excavate a small number of holes in the intended leach field region; however, if a land study is required to identify where to excavate, the cost of your test may rise.

Building Permit Application

A permit will be required if you want to install a septic tank on your property. State-by-state variations in permit prices exist, however they are normally priced around $200 and must be renewed every few years on average.

Excavation and Installation

When you have passed a percolation test and obtained a building permit, your septic tank is ready to be professionally placed. The cost of a new septic system is determined by the size of your home, the kind of system you choose, and the material used in your septic tank. The following is a list of the many treatment methods and storage tanks that are now available, as well as the normal pricing associated with each.

Types of Septic Tank Systems

Septic system that is used in the traditional sense Traditionally, a septic system relies on gravity to transport waste from the home into the septic tank. Solid trash settles at the bottom of the sewage treatment plant, while liquid sewage rises to the top. Whenever the amount of liquid sewage increases over the outflow pipe, the liquid waste is discharged into the drain field, where it continues to disintegrate. This type of traditional septic system is generally the most economical, with an average cost of roughly $3,000 on the market today.

Drain fields for alternative systems require less land than conventional systems and discharge cleaner effluent.

Septic system that has been engineered A poorly developed soil or a property placed on an uphill slope need the installation of an engineered septic system, which is the most difficult to install.

It is necessary to pump the liquid waste onto a leach field, rather than depending on gravity to drain it, in order to ensure that it is equally dispersed across the land.

Types of Septic Tanks

  • Concrete septic tanks are long-lasting and rust-proof, but they are difficult to repair if they are damaged. It is possible that concrete tanks will cost up to $2,000 depending on their size. Plastic —While plastic tanks are cost-effective, they are also susceptible to damage. They are around $1,200 in price. Fiberglass —While fiberglass septic tanks are more durable than their plastic counterparts, they are susceptible to shifting or displacement if the water table rises to an excessive level. Depending on the model, these tanks may cost up to $2,000

More information may be found at: Septic Warranty Coverage and Costs.

Using Your Septic Tank

It is important to maintain the area around your new septic tank’s drain field and to frequently check your tank using the lids included with it. Never use a trash disposal in conjunction with your septic tank since it might cause the system to clog. Additionally, avoid driving over the land where your septic tank is located or putting heavy gear on top of your septic tank or drain field to prevent damage. Most of the time, after five years of septic system use, you’ll need to arrange a cleaning and pumping of the system.

Consequently, there will be no accumulation of solid waste that will leach into the surrounding soil or groundwater. Send an email to our Reviews Team [email protected] if you have any comments or questions regarding this post.

How to Install a Septic System

Private Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems (POWTS), often known as septic systems, are employed mostly in rural regions of the nation where municipal waste water treatment facilities are not accessible. Download ArticleDownload Article These systems may be divided into two broad categories: 1. and 2. gravity fed/conventional, and Alternative (pump) systems, such as aerobic treatment units (ATUs), are commonly used. Electric pumps are commonly used in alternative systems. Because of the possible harm to the environment posed by contamination of the watershed, it is suggested that this project be undertaken by a professional with relevant experience.

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  1. 1 Construct and design your system. The first stage in every septic installation is to conduct a site survey and a percolation (soil) test on the area where the POWTS will be installed. 2 Install your system. In order to create a system, it is necessary to first gather information from surveyors and conduct a soil test. It is then possible to submit an application for the necessary permissions and approvals.
  • The following are some of the conclusions from the site survey that have an impact on the design:
  • Available space
  • Terrain
  • Intended purpose and projected water demand depending on the size of the residence or building that the system will serve
  • Location of the well and/or nearby wells
  • And other factors.
  • The following are examples of soil test findings that have an impact on the design:
  • The soil type and layering (sand, clay, rock, and where it is placed in relation to depth)
  • The soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  • And the soil’s ability to drain and filter wastewater
  1. 2Wait for clearance before proceeding. The system may be deployed once all of the relevant permissions and approvals have been obtained. Make certain that all of the steps listed below are carried out in accordance with all applicable laws, plumbing rules, and building codes. Advertisement

Please keep in mind that the following procedure assumes that the system is being installed for the first time and not as a replacement.

  1. 1 Assemble the equipment and tools that will be used throughout the dig. You will require the following items:
  • Backhoe, laser transit, and grade pole are all included. A 4″ Sch. 40 PVC pipe (and fittings, if necessary)
  • A 4″ ASTM D2729 perforated pipe
  • A 4″ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap
  • PVC primer and adhesive
  • A 4″ Sch. 40 vent cap and test cap The following tools will be required: Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw)
  • Hammer drill and bits (for drilling through walls if necessary)
  • The following items are required: hydraulic cement (to seal surrounding pipe if pipe is going through wall)
  • Shovel
  • Stone measuring an inch and a half and cleaned (amount varies depending on system size)
  • Tape measurements (both ordinary and at least a 100-foot-long tape)
  • Septic fabric (cut to 3′ length or less from a roll)
  • Septic tank and risers (concrete or plastic if allowed)
  • Riser sealant such as Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic)
  • A septic filter (such as a Zoeller 170 or similar) if one is necessary
  • A distribution box (either concrete or plastic, if more than two laterals are being run)
  • And a septic tank.
  • 2 Determine the location of the entrance to the building in relation to the location of the septic tank. Make an excavation at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and drill a hole beneath the footing, depending on your preference or the need. Because this is precisely what a gravity-fed system is designed to accomplish, expect the flow to continue to flow downhill from here. When transferring waste from the tank to the drain field, it does not employ any mechanical methods other than gravity.
  • The pipe should be 4″ Sch. 40 and should extend at least five feet outside the structure toward the tank, either through the wall or beneath it. Set it level where it will pass through a wall or under a footing, and from there, run it with approximately 1/8″ of pitch (slope) every foot of length toward the septic tank until it reaches the tank. If necessary, go even farther into the tank or all the way into the tank. If this is the case, switch to 4″ 3034 with the appropriate adaptor and pipe 3034 toward the tank.
  • Make sure you use a test cap on the end that will be entering the building. It is recommended that if you are going through a wall, you seal the area around the hole with hydraulic cement both inside and outside
  • Do not run too much pitch out to the tank. If there is an excessive amount, the water will run away quicker than the sediments, resulting in the solids remaining in the pipe. Additionally, depending on the depth of your drain field and how close it will be to the tank’s outflow, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field.
  • 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Make use of the laser transit to “shoot” the top of the pipe that leads out to the tank with the laser. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and inches. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the total. The depth of the grade pole has now been adjusted to the desired depth. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the desired depth
  • 3 Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the installation of the concrete aerobic tank below ground level. To “shot” the top of the pipe that leads to the tank, use the laser transit. The distance between the top of the intake and the bottom of the tank is measured in feet and meters. To the number you fired off the top of the pipe, add this (go up on the grade pole) + 1 1/2″ to get the final result. It is now necessary to adjust the depth of the grade pole. Using this, continue to drill the hole to the necessary depth
  • .
  1. 4Use “inch-and-a-half cleaned drain rock” from a neighboring gravel dump to surround the pipe, which is required in most areas. This is necessary in order to keep the pipe stable. For further information on the size of embedment and gravel required, check with your local health department. Five-inch perforated pipe in a gravity drain field does not have a slope from one end to another and has capped ends
  2. Once you have received a green sticker from the health inspector, you must cover the pipe and tank. All places, subject to the restrictions of the local health authority, will be required to cover the drain rock with a specific filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw, or untreated construction paper before backfilling. Advertisement
  1. A pump chamber after the septic tank should be installed The pump chamber, also known as a pressure tank or dosing tank, is where the electric pump is housed, which is responsible for transporting wastewater from one location to another and finally into the drain field for final disposal.
  • Set up the pump chamber in the same manner as you would a septic tank. The effluent pump and floats are housed in the pump chamber, and they are responsible for pumping the effluent out to the drain field at predetermined or scheduled intervals. This is a hermetically sealed system. To ensure that the electrical installation complies with state standards, it is frequently necessary to hire a qualified electrician. It is important to remember that in places with high groundwater, the pump chamber or additional ATUs may remain essentially empty for long periods of time, and that these tanks may need to be safeguarded from floating by the installation of additional weight or other protective features.
  1. Secondly, all construction details, including the layout of all sewers outside of the home, the location and depth of all tanks, the routing and depth of pressurized effluent lines, and other system components, such as the drain field and any additional ATUs, must be consistent with the septic system plans approved by the local county health department. Cover the tank and pressurized lines once the inspector has given his final clearance and the system has been turned on. Advertisement

Create a new question

  • Question I had a tank put, but it isn’t level with the ground. What will be the ramifications of this, and should it be leveled? It is necessary to keep the tank level. It is difficult to predict what it will have an impact on because we do not know which direction it is off level. Question Is it necessary to be concerned about tree roots growing into the drainage area when using a gravity flow kind of tank? Whether or whether you have lateral lines is dependent on the kind of trees that are growing close or above them. Tree species that tend to extend roots into the lateral lines and obstruct them are known as ramifications. Due to the fact that they are buried deep in the ground and surrounded by a pocket of gravel that allows waste water to drain out, they are rarely affected by grass, weeds, and shrubs. Question What is the maximum depth that a pipe may be lowered into the leech bed? The majority of systems require 12 volts “in the form of rock The perforated pipe should be suspended in the top area of the rock
  • It should not be touching the rock. Question Maintaining a lush green grass on or above your pitch is it safe, or is it a good practice? According to what I’ve heard, brown or dead grass is preferred so that your field can breathe more easily. It is necessary for your field to take a breath. The presence of green grass across your field indicates that it is functioning well. With lush grass covering your field, it will be able to breathe. There should be no planting of woody shrubs or trees over the leach field. Question What is the recommended distance between the septic tank and the house/boundary? A minimum of fifty feet is required. States have different laws, but this is the most common distance
  • Nonetheless, other states have stricter laws. Question What is the average amount of soil that goes into a residential leach field? It is dependent on how chilly it becomes. There are no less than 12 in the northern United States “in the leach field’s surface
  • Question Is it possible to build a septic system during the cold months? What you should do will depend on whether or not you reside in a place where the ground freezes. Question What amount of water should I put in the tank to get it going? None. A typical tank holds 1,000 gallons and will fill up quite quickly if used on a regular basis. When liquid effluent is discharged to the drain field, the goal is to catch and pre-treat particles that have accumulated. It is possible that a pump system will require water to prime the pump. Question There is a misalignment between my septic field’s underground line and the pipe on the tank. Is it OK to utilize a 90-degree elbow on my septic tank? As long as you have decent downhill flow, you should be fine. Instead of using a 90, I would use two 45s. Question If I’m installing a septic system, when should I contact an inspector? Immediately following system installation but before earth is used to cover the system in place Always check with the inspector ahead of time to verify that they can satisfy your inspection needs

More information on the replies Inquire about something There are 200 characters remaining. Include your email address so that you may be notified when this question has been resolved. SubmitAdvertisement

  • The use of aerobic bacterial additions (which are available at most DIY stores) to maintain a healthy and well functioning system, as suggested by producers on a periodic basis, is contentious. The septic tank is an anaerobic (wet) environment in which the majority of yeasts and other additions will have little or no effect on the sewage being processed. When it comes to installing septic tanks, some old school installers believe that placing an additive, a shovel of muck, or even a dead cat in an empty tank will “start” the process. What naturally enters the tank serves as the only thing that is necessary. The aerobic (wet or dry) component of the system consists of hundreds of square feet of drain field, where additives will do little help even if they make it all the way to the end of the system. The use of chemicals in septic systems has not been the subject of an independent research that has been published in a respectable scientific publication anywhere in the world, including this nation. This will mostly certainly be confirmed by your local health department. Each phase of the building process will almost certainly include an examination by a health inspector before the work can be completed or covered up. On pressurized lines, the use of a sand embedment is recommended in order to reduce the amount of damage caused by moving soil that has a high concentration of clay. When pumps are turned on and off, pressurized lines might move as well. Four inches (10.2 cm) of sand bedding on all four sides of the lines will prevent sharp pebbles from the ground or backfill from wearing holes in the pipe over time
  • And
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  • Keep the perforated pipe for the leech field in a vertical position while installing it to avoid having the holes in the pipe turn downward. It is necessary to lay the perforated drain field pipe ASTM 2729 dead level, so that the printed line on the pipe is facing up. The perforations on both sides of the pipe are on both sides of the pipe. All of the sections of perforated pipe are cemented together, and the ends of each leach line are capped to complete the installation. So, when waste water enters the pipe, it will fill the pipe to the height of the perforations and overflow from ALL of the holes, utilising the whole leach field as a means of treatment. In certain health authorities, you can utilize waste water to water grass or decorative plants, trees, vegetable gardens, and fruit trees if you place the perforated pipe on a slope. However, the water must first be cleaned by the system (tertiary treatment includes disinfection) in order to prevent pathogens (germs) from the septic system from being discharged into the environment throughout the process. Make sure to check with your local health authority to verify if the practice known as “reuse” is permitted in your community.


Things You’ll Need

  • The following tools are required: backhoe tractor, trencher, shovel, contractor’s laser level and rod, or a surveyor’s transit. Septic tanks
  • PVC pipe with perforations
  • Material for embedding
  • PVC adhesive, PVC fittings, and a septic tank outlet filter are all included. Hand saw
  • Course file
  • Sandpaper If necessary, effluent pumps and floats are installed. If an alternate system is used, a control panel is installed.

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Using a Kubota mini-excavator, Josh Jackson of Fayette DrainSewer works on replacing a waterline at a customer’s home in Fayette, Alabama.

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Get the latest plumbing articles, news, and videos delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Plumbing+ Receive Notifications Mark Vice can point to three compelling reasons for his decision to purchase two Kubota Tractor Corporation mini-excavators: their dependability, ease of maintenance, and productivity. In Fayette, Alabama, Vice owns Fayette DrainSewer Inc., a company that specializes in sewer and drain cleaning. “We have very few problems and they’re really low-maintenance devices,” he adds.

  • as well as the fact that these two devices are the most productive moneymakers we own.” Vice claims that he began out with a little backhoe that was affordable — but also extremely inefficient.
  • Among its merits are its efficient hydraulics and the fact that it may swing in all directions.
  • “They can move material around much more efficiently.” This type of excavation may go right up against a home and do the job with a lot less shoveling than traditional excavators.
  • In the words of Vice, “we can get a yard looking clean and immaculate in half the time that it used to take people with shovels and rakes.” It is important to note that the rubber tracks leave no mark on the grass.
  • folks are ecstatic when we’re completed,” says the author.
  • He ensures that the machines are properly greased and that the oil is changed on a regular basis.
  • “They’re quite well-engineered machinery,” he says of the machines.
  • Furthermore, all of the grease fittings are easily accessible.” Vice underlines that, in his company, profitability is closely related to the completion of high-quality work as rapidly as feasible.

“I’d guess that around 75% of our jobs now require only two individuals, when formerly they required three people.” More information on Fayette DrainSewer may be found in the December edition of Pumpermagazine.

Operational Awareness: Loader Backhoe or Excavator?

Receive articles, stories, and videos about septic systems delivered directly to your email! Now is the time to sign up. Septic Tanks and Systems+ Receive Notifications Every year comes with it new business chances and new problems, but it also carries with it some of the same choices. Is it, for example, time to replace an aged piece of equipment? Should you attempt to make do for another year, or should you give up? There are a number of factors to consider if you are considering purchasing an extra or replacement equipment.

Site contractors frequently employ two equipment for installation: a compact excavating or digging machine for trenching and digging, and a skid-steer loader for removing dirt from the site.

Loader backhoes with a typical digging depth of 14 feet have been a popular choice for many years, but bigger versions with a digging depth of 16 feet may now be worth considering because of the additional capability they provide.

More than a shovel

Katie Pullen, marketing manager for Case Construction Equipment, claims that the backhoe loader is “without a doubt” one of the most efficient and productive equipment on the market. “It also gives the most adaptability for septic system installers,” says the manufacturer. Modern loader backhoes are getting more flexible with each passing year, according to Pullen, whether they are being used for excavation, trenching, backfilling, or creating a mound. It is possible to get buckets in a number of various sizes and designs, including narrow ones for trenching beside a house as well as larger buckets for digging a hole for the septic tank or trenches for the drainfield.

Using attachments on bigger equipment – such as standard or mass excavators – has been normal practice for many years, but now loader backhoes may utilize similar sorts of attachments on smaller tasks, according to Pullen.

Decision factors

A great lot goes into the decision on which machine to purchase: According to Pullen, there are numerous crucial areas to examine as well as questions to ask yourself. The cost of doing business. While the initial investment in the newer Interim Tier 4 equipment may be greater, it is crucial to consider the long-term operational expenses as well while making this decision. While preserving the desired power and performance, interim Tier 4 engines that use cooled exhaust gas recirculation (CEGR) technology and a diesel particulate filter will give faster reaction time and at least 4 percent greater fuel efficiency than their predecessors, according to Pullen.

  • Is it possible for you to do daily maintenance inspections from the ground level?
  • Is it possible to access all of the filters?
  • Productivity of the operator.
  • With the more recent and now more ubiquitous pilot-style controls, new operators may be more productive as they learn the ropes of their new job.
  • Can you tell me if the windows open to allow for simple conversation as well as cross-ventilation?
  • Are there any armrests or wrist positioners to help with fatigue reduction?
  • What types of common equipment, such as hydraulic augers, hammers, and tampers for the backhoe, and forks, grapples, snow blades, rakes, brooms, broomsticks, and combination buckets for the loader, may be used on the machine?

Quick couplers, which are hydraulic in nature, allow operators to make modifications in seconds.

Needs that are peculiar to the climate.

Pullen recommends that in such situations, you may wish to consider an extended arm because of the additional depth it gives.

The scope of the project.

Consider the maximum size and weight of septic tanks before installing them, especially if you want to construct bigger two-compartment septic tanks.

For example, some machines include characteristics that give them an extra burst of force, allowing them to move materials that would normally need an excavator, or to break through difficult soil conditions.

According to Pullen, using a more expensive machine such as an excavator to lift and position septic tanks provides installers with a significant amount of machine; yet, altogether, it may provide them with more machine than they require and more money than they can afford.

Choose wisely

In the end, the choice to purchase a loader backhoe rather than an excavator and a loader is dependent on your operation – the number of operators you have, the number of projects you operate on at the same time, and the performance you want from your equipment. As Pullen explains, “there are no good or bad answers.” “Loader backhoes, on the other hand, live up to their name, providing loading, excavation, and rapid mobility all in one equipment. Contractors for septic systems should at the very least take them into consideration when they are ready to purchase a system.”

Septic Tank Installation Guidelines

Each and every tank built by Glacier Precast Concrete has through a thorough inspection and testing process at the factory. It is vital that each tank is installed correctly in order for it to work effectively and remain watertight. Correct installation techniques may prevent many of the issues that arise in the functioning of tanks, such as tanks leaking (either water flowing into or out of them) and system failure before they have a chance to occur. Improper installation procedures can cause significant damage to the tank, as well as serious physical injury to those working on it.

It should also be beneficial to designers, building inspectors, and homeowners in general.


PLAN YOUR NEXT PROJECT. To properly prepare the sub-bed elevation and allow the tank to properly receive the sewer pipe that is coming from the home or building, you will need to know the invert elevation (which is the measurement from underside of the tank to bottom of the tank’s inlet opening). You can find this information on the tank’s invert elevation page. For these crucial measurements, see the manufacturer’s most recent literature or website, or call us at 406-752-7163 for assistance.

Take into consideration the fact that the site where the tank will be installed must be accessible by large and highly laden vehicles with a maximum weight of up to 80,000 pounds.

It must be removed of all trees and branches, big boulders, overhead wires, underground utilities, and other structures that might be damaged or interfere with the delivery and unloading of the septic tank, as well as any other structures that could interfere with or be harmed by the septic tank.

If any damage occurs to the work site, the delivery vehicle, or the tank, the purchaser/installer is liable.

As a result, it is critical to provide appropriate access for delivery equipment to reach the excavation and remove the tank from the truck.

Standard concrete septic tanks are not built to withstand severe traffic loads or to transport any type of heavy equipment. Because of this, it is recommended that a dedicated tank be installed to handle high traffic loads or unique scenarios. Please inquire if you require any of these.


All underground utilities should be identified and found BEFORE YOU DIG! This is for the safety of your backhoe (excavator) operator as well as the general public’s benefit. The recommended technique is as follows: To identify the dig site, you must file a locate request by dialing 811 at least 24 hours before you want to begin digging. More information may be found on the following website: Location Center in the Subterranean Space (UULC) Toll-free number: 1-800-424-5555 (or 811) Area of Coverage: All of MontanaUULC will call the impacted utilities, who will either send someone to mark their subterranean lines or notify you if their underground services will not be affected by your intended dig, depending on the situation.

  • Prepare the hole so that it is at least 18″ bigger than the tank, to provide for adequate area to compact the backfill material appropriately.
  • It is important to slant excavation walls for the sake of stability and worker safety.
  • Over a thoroughly compacted and uniformly level basis, a layer of pea gravel or sand of 5-6″ minimum is recommended overlaying the foundation.
  • Tanks will be harmed if they are allowed to bear down on huge stones, rocks, or cliff edges, for example.

Tank Placement

The first step after receiving your new tank is to check it while it is still on the truck to ensure that you have gotten the tank that is appropriately designed and proportioned according to your specifications. Any inconsistencies should be noted to the driver, who should then cross-check the tank with the Bill of Lading or Sales Order to ensure that everything is in order. Second, check the tank for any possible damage that may have occurred during the transportation process. Prior to installation, it is important to establish that the tank’s orientation is such that the input ports face the dwelling and the discharge outlets face the drain field or treatment facility.

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Check to see that the pitch of the input pipe leading from the home to the tank complies with local regulations.

The suitable equipment or special lifting device will be used to ensure that it is handled appropriately and safely. In accordance with industry policy, “all personnel should be kept away from loads that are going to be hoisted and from hanging loads” (OSHA Rule29 CFR 1901-184 -9)


When backfilling, extreme caution should be exercised to avoid damaging or misaligning the entrance and exit pipes, the tank and fittings, and any other pipe joints. Ideally, backfill should be deposited in layers of less than 12″ thickness that are mechanically compacted and homogeneous in appearance. It is not necessary to backfill and compress one or two sides before backfilling and compacting the opposing sides. In most cases, excavated material may be utilized for backfill, but it should not contain any huge stones or boulders.

Even concrete tanks, on the other hand, can float if the water level surrounding them increases to a sufficient level.

This aids in keeping the tank in place and offers some protection against the tank being damaged during the compaction process.

Tanks that will be installed at a depth greater than this will require special traffic-rated lids to be installed.


Please do not get inside the tank! Gases that are dangerous in enclosed environments can be found there. Only properly qualified professionals with the appropriate tests and protective equipment should contemplate entering a tank, and they should never do it by themselves.


Generally, the number of bedrooms in a house and the amount of water that percolates through the soil on the subject land define the size of the septic system and tank required. When designing a septic system, keep in mind the possibility of future expansion requirements. If a septic system is overwhelmed, it will not be able to perform its functions correctly. A guarantee will not be provided for tanks that are under capacity or that have not been properly sized and fitted. Glacier Precast Concrete suggests that the tank capacity (septic chamber) be raised by 500 gallons if the owner has installed or plans to install a waste disposal (grinder) or if the owner anticipates doing so in the future.

In addition, it is critical that all entrance and exit pipework be linked using flexible compression fittings that are compliant with ASTM C 1227 and C 923 standards and specifications.

Septic Tank Installation and Earthwork in Fairfield and Central Maine

Located in Fairfield, Stanley’s Septic Construction provides septic tank installation and earthwork services to residents of Central Maine and surrounding areas. In the sewage system, septic tanks play a vital role, especially for individuals who do not have access to a municipal sewer system. Since 1960, we have been providing septic system services to the people of Somerset County and Central Maine. We have earned the confidence of the community. When septic systems and sewage lines are required, we have the appropriate equipment to dig and install them.

Call us today at (207) 453-9819 or fill out our online quote request form. We are available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. You may be certain that a member of the Stanley family will always be accessible to assist you.

Septic Tank Repair for Properties in Fairfield and Serving Central Maine

Due to the natural aging process of septic tanks and systems, they may require repair from time to time. Stanley’s SepticConstruction, based in Fairfield, Maine, specializes in septic tank repair for customers in Central Maine and the surrounding regions. We can dig up the system in a short period of time and repair tanks, pipelines, and other components. We also provide septic tank cleaning and pumping services to ensure that these repairs are as seldom as possible.

Professional Site and Earthwork for the Central Maine Area

When it comes to site preparation and earthwork, Stanley’s SepticConstruction is the company to call. We have all of the necessary equipment, including a backhoe and a bulldozer, to do the task efficiently. Earthwork services provided by Stanley’s SepticConstruction include the following:

  • Trenching, drainage, grading, filtration, excavation, water and sewer line repair, and other services are available.

Get in touch with us immediately to learn more about our earthwork services or to request a price quote. We make every effort to cause the least amount of disruption to your home or company.

Contact Stanley’s SepticConstruction for Prompt, 24/7 Service

Contact Stanley’s SepticConstruction if you need a septic tank installed, repaired, or any earthwork done. We are accessible for competent and rapid service 24 hours a day, seven days a week. From defective septic tanks to drainage issues, you can rely on our team of professionals to complete the work quickly and efficiently. Septic services are also available from us, and they are odorless. For assistance or an estimate in Fairfield, ME, or the surrounding regions, contact one of our staff members right away.

The Process of Installing Your Septic System

Installing a septic tank is one of the most significant home improvement jobs you can do, and it is one that you should left to licensedMiami septic specialists such as Southern Septic System and Lift Station Corp. A septic system installation is a sophisticated operation that involves several factors that, if not managed appropriately, can result in serious problems for your septic system. And that’s not even taking into consideration the costly equipment necessary for the work! Although you may not intend to build your septic system yourself, you may wish to be kept informed about the progress of the installation.

In addition, it might surely assist you in ensuring your own type of quality control while having a new septic system put in your house or place of business.

Design The System

Your septic system is not the same as any other type of plumbing system. A hammer cannot be purchased from any hardware shop and just dropped anywhere you find it convenient. You must take into consideration factors such as space, slope, and even soil. The system must be able to fit into the ground without interfering with any other fixtures, while still being close enough to your house or company that wastewater can readily move from there to it.

When it comes to the soil, if it is too thin, the wastewater will not be cleaned before it seeps into the soil. All of these concerns should be taken into account by a certified and experienced contractor who understands how to design a septic system that works for your property.

Wait For Approval From The City

In order to properly build a septic system, it is necessary to dig an extensive trench. Furthermore, a project of this size cannot move forward without the permission of the city. This phase necessitates the receipt of permits that are in compliance with all applicable laws, including plumbing and building rules. It takes a great deal of expertise and experience to understand the codes and the many options available throughout this procedure. If you do not have that level of expertise and experience, you may find yourself delaying the installation of your septic system for an extended length of time.

Instead, leave it to the certified professionals to handle it.

Install The System!

Your new septic system is ready to be installed once you’ve made it through the slow and irritating initial couple of steps. This procedure include digging the necessary holes and trenches for your septic tank and drain field. It is necessary to do so using heavy-duty equipment that is designed to dig enormous but exact holes, which you guessed it. It’s possible that you don’t have access to that equipment, or that you have, but you don’t have the expertise to operate it in the manner required for the installation.

That is a dangerous scenario to place yourself and your property in.

If you need a new septic system installed, then please call our Miami septic professionals at 305-598-8266 or complete ouronline request form.

Is it possible for you to drive a truck over a septic tank? Is it possible to drive over a septic tank?

Can you drive a truck or vehicle over a septic tank? The answer is you technically can, but you shouldn’t, and you should familiarize yourself with the risks in doing so.

Is it possible to drive over a septic drainage field? There is no official numerical value that specifies the maximum amount of weight that an underground septic tank can withstand. You should be aware, however, that it is strongly advised that you avoid driving or parking vehicles or heavy machinery on or near a septic system system area. Subjecting your septic tank to significant weight from trucks, automobiles, or tractors, among other things, and doing so for an extended length of time, increases the risk of damage to the system.

  • It brings with it a full slew of pricey septic system issues to deal with.
  • As a result of the weight of some golf carts, especially those that are filled with people, your septic tank may experience excessive stress.
  • The act of driving over your septic tank, septic pipe, or drain field can do significant damage to your septic system, not to mention the fact that it is dangerous.
  • Should You Park Your Car on Top of a Septic Tank?
  • Under no circumstances should sewage disposal tanks be constructed beneath garages or driveways.
  • If at all feasible, delineate the region beneath which your septic tank will be installed.

Indeed, parking or driving over a septic tank must be avoided at all costs, and this is especially true during periods of heavy rainfall. It is at this time that your septic tank system is most susceptible to disruption and damage.

What If You Built Structures or Have Existing Structures Built On Your Septic Tank?

access to a septic tank for the purpose of pumping The construction of any form of building over any section of your septic tank is never a wise decision. Due to the restricted access to the septic tank, the most common difficulty this causes is that septic maintenance (such as regular pumping) and repair become more difficult or time-consuming to do. A significant number of homeowners and business owners have their sewage-disposal tanks concealed beneath wood decks, pool patios, driveways, or other construction annexes.

Building over your septic tank may be remedied by installing removable boards or trap doors, which allow for practical access to the septic tank while yet maintaining aesthetic appeal.

While your drain field takes use of the soil surrounding it to purify the flow from the septic tank, your septic tank does not.

The fact that you would be constructing over a large area that includes sewage water, which is exceedingly unsanitary, has not yet been brought up in conversation.

Ensure that you have easy access to the tank since it is required for periodic inspections and upkeep, as well as for emergency repairs.

It is not only impractical, but it is also prohibitively expensive.

It is exceedingly detrimental to the health of humans and animals if harmful gases leak out of the sewage treatment system and into the environment.

Building on top of your drain field condenses the soils and can cause damage to the below-ground system, which can result in a septic tank failure.

No, driving across your septic drain field is also not suggested under any circumstances.

When necessary, you should drive over your septic leach field to ensure that no long-term harm is done.

If you were to drive over it on a regular basis, the fill level in the system would certainly decrease, and the air movement in the system would be compromised.

As a general safety precaution, keep in mind that driving or parking an automobile on a drain field can impair the performance of the drain field due to compaction of the soil and the lack of proper air movement due to the increased surface area.

South End is a neighborhood in the heart of the city.

So keep in mind that we are only a click away.

We also specialize in leak detection; please contact us for more information. South End Plumbing is one of the few organizations that will provide you with a no-obligation quote. To book a visit, please call us at 704-919-1722 or complete the online form.

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